Torque to yield lower pulley bolts

[Miro1118]

Just finishing up timing belt job on my 2007 2.0t. The new bolts on the lower pulley are torque to yield I believe its 10nm and then 90 degrees. I can't get the leverage to get it turned 90 degrees. I probably get it like 45 or 50 degrees. Any ideas on how to get more leverage against holding the center bolt with a breaker bar? is it enough just to get it as close are I can to 90 degrees? I also don't want to strip out the inside of the allen bolt. I already ordered new bolts because I had to go back in. (Long story). Want to get it right this time now that I have a second chance.

Thanks

[Der Konig]

Just finishing up timing belt job on my 2007 2.0t. The new bolts on the lower pulley are torque to yield I believe its 10nm and then 90 degrees. I can't get the leverage to get it turned 90 degrees. I probably get it like 45 or 50 degrees. Any ideas on how to get more leverage against holding the center bolt with a breaker bar? is it enough just to get it as close are I can to 90 degrees? I also don't want to strip out the inside of the allen bolt. I already ordered new bolts because I had to go back in. (Long story). Want to get it right this time now that I have a second chance.

Thanks

I had the whole lock carrier off to the side when I just did my timing belt like below, makes it way easier to access and get the right amount of troque. Anyone who finds this, just take the extra couple steps to go into this position, your crank pulley bolts will most likely be stripped anyways and this makes it so much easier. Honestly I am sure you are fine getting as close as you can within reason. The chance of all 6 backing out is slim to none at even half the right amount of yield.

https://i.imgur.com/JZH28xw.jpg

[FrankSilvia]

I read that wrong at first, try putting a rag against pulley and use a pry bar against it.
Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Audizine mobile app (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=87676)

[aluthman]

You can put a breaker bar on the crank bolt if needed. Those bastards are hard as hell to remove at times and a tiny amount of counter torque from torquing the small damper bolts won’t even make it blink.

[Miro1118]

I made a lot of room by tilting the carrier lock forward on bungee cords. I was thinking about putting a jack handle or pipe on a breaker bar and letting the floor or the framerail be the counter resistance on he crank bolt while I tighten the pulley bolts.

[Theiceman]

i got it close and called it a day with some blue loctite .

[Brillo]

Perhaps Audi goes a bit overboard with the use of TTY bolts. Certainly, where gaskets are used such as head bolts, they are a tremendous advantage over conventional bolts. But, using TTY bolts you really do want to do it right - torque plus angular displacement - so you achieve the proper bolt tension and they function correctly. You say you have new bolts, which is good, and figured out how to lock the crank to achieve the required displacement of the bolts. In case you're tempted, strongly suggest not using the bolts that you partially torqued if you have in any way loosened them in attempt to tighten to the required displacement. You will no longer be able to get the correct elastic tension on them.

As an aside, in the old days when we wanted to renew valve springs and retaining clips or adjust the tappet clearance without dropping a valve into the cylinder, we'd bring the piston part way up in the cylinder then fill the rest of the cylinder with 1/8 inch nylon rope through the spark plug hole and then turn the crank (by hand of course) to compress the rope against the valves. This locked the crank and pinned the valves in their seats. Just pull the rope back out when your done. This seemed like a good place to throw that old trick in.