Coolant error code

[OlyS6]

Anyone have any information on error code B11D5 ?

I have intermittently gotten this code associated with a warning on my dash saying 'coolant temp too hot- pull over and let engine idle'

The exact code on VCDS:

0560- Supply voltage terminal 30 for Coolant Pump
B11D5 15 (008) - Open or short to Plus
Intermittent- Confirmed - Tested since memory clear


I've only found one other thread mentioning this error here on AZ- that individual had his thermostat replaced, but I don't know if it fixed the problem or not, as he's not responded to a PM.

Thanks in advance if anyone knows the answer to this.

[mintytoo]

Anyone have any information on error code B11D5 ?

I have intermittently gotten this code associated with a warning on my dash saying 'coolant temp too hot- pull over and let engine idle'

The exact code on VCDS:

0560- Supply voltage terminal 30 for Coolant Pump
B11D5 15 (008) - Open or short to Plus
Intermittent- Confirmed - Tested since memory clear


I've only found one other thread mentioning this error here on AZ- that individual had his thermostat replaced, but I don't know if it fixed the problem or not, as he's not responded to a PM.

Thanks in advance if anyone knows the answer to this.

Do you have stock coolant pump, any mods to the pump or harness?

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[SpectreGadget]

Your coolant pump is probably leaking and corroding the contacts. Likely on the way out and needs to be replaced


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[OlyS6]

Do you have stock coolant pump, any mods to the pump or harness?

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This is the main coolant pump that directly cools the engine, and not an auxiliary pump for the intercooler, which is the mod that most folks are playing with.

[OlyS6]

Your coolant pump is probably leaking and corroding the contacts. Likely on the way out and needs to be replaced


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Thanks- I'm leaning towards replacing it regardless since I went through an interesting time taking off the radiator and AC condenser, and hope to not repeat that torture any time soon. I'm a bit torn, since the thermostat actually controls the pump. Luckily ordering a new pump also comes with a new thermostat, so I can do it all at once. Was hoping to maybe just replace the thermostat, but the only way to test that theory is to put everything back together again and drive it hard.

[Dasquade]

Like in other topic, can't help you much but definatly other error then what i'm getting and i guess in your case it is actually the pump that is dying.
Is it always on and you can't erase? Does it still pump coolant in the reservoir if you push the gass? Coolant lines under extreme pressure?
Mechanic mentioned the turbine inside sometimes tend to slip or fail completly, but looks to be more an electronic issue (terminal 30?).
How are your coolant temps doing?
Suck big time that the front needs to come off, same for the thermostat (i'm holding it off as temps look okey).
Sadely you can only access the thermostat wires, pump wires are just out of reach from underneat :(.

[infinitereality]

Just a wild guess, but terminal 30 is possibly for the pump relay. If so terminal 30 on a relay is typically is the +12v from the battery, so may be worthwhile checking the fuse for it if you haven't already.

[wwhan]

Anyone have any information on error code B11D5 ?

I have intermittently gotten this code associated with a warning on my dash saying 'coolant temp too hot- pull over and let engine idle'

The exact code on VCDS:

0560- Supply voltage terminal 30 for Coolant Pump
B11D5 15 (008) - Open or short to Plus
Intermittent- Confirmed - Tested since memory clear

.....

I guess this post is the one you are referring to:

"I’m going to bump this since I’ve had this issue for months but never addressed it. At first it was very small loss that I would top off every few months and progressed to almost a weekly thing.
You may have to wait until a fault comes up, some techs won’t even touch it until they can scan it. Pictures of the red coolant light warning helps.
I ended up with a B11D5 coolant pump fault (https://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/794657-Slow-slow-coolant-leak-or-loss-(Brand-New-2017-Audi-S7)?p=12926544&viewfull=1#post12926544)(Supply Voltage Terminal 30 for Coolant Pump) and as you can imagine, it took an awful long time before it popped up.
They’ve traced it to a hose connecting to the thermostat. They’re replacing both, thermostat and hose."

and the result:
"Dealer claim they performed a pressure test and verified that the leak was located at the thermostat and water pump union. (https://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/794657-Slow-slow-coolant-leak-or-loss-(Brand-New-2017-Audi-S7)?p=12939094&viewfull=1#post12939094)

079-121-115-BD Thermostat
079-121-147-G Union

Removed bumper, placed car into service mode, drained coolant, replaced thermostat then replaced the water pump union.
Installed back in reversed order, performed pressure test and held."

The normal coolant pump codes don't look like B11D5 coolant pump fault.

"P149A00 EGR Coolant pump Short-circuit to ground
P149B00 EGR Coolant pump Short circuit to B+
P149C00 EGR Coolant pump Open circuit

P160C00 Coolant pump 2 Open circuit
P160D00 Coolant pump 2 Implausible signal
P160E00 Coolant pump 2 Short-circuit to ground
P160F00 Coolant pump 2 Short circuit to B+

P260000 Coolant Pump Control Circuit open
P260100 Coolant Pump Control Circuit range/performance
P260200 Coolant Pump Control Circuit low
P260300 Coolant Pump Control Circuit high

P261A00 Coolant Pump "B" Control Circuit/Open
P261B00 Coolant Pump "B" Control Circuit Range/Performance
P261C00 Coolant Pump "B" Control Circuit Low
P261D00 Coolant Pump "B" Control Circuit High
"

[OlyS6]

I guess this post is the one you are referring to:

"I’m going to bump this since I’ve had this issue for months but never addressed it. At first it was very small loss that I would top off every few months and progressed to almost a weekly thing.
You may have to wait until a fault comes up, some techs won’t even touch it until they can scan it. Pictures of the red coolant light warning helps.
I ended up with a B11D5 coolant pump fault (https://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/794657-Slow-slow-coolant-leak-or-loss-(Brand-New-2017-Audi-S7)?p=12926544&viewfull=1#post12926544)(Supply Voltage Terminal 30 for Coolant Pump) and as you can imagine, it took an awful long time before it popped up.
They’ve traced it to a hose connecting to the thermostat. They’re replacing both, thermostat and hose."

and the result:
"Dealer claim they performed a pressure test and verified that the leak was located at the thermostat and water pump union. (https://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/794657-Slow-slow-coolant-leak-or-loss-(Brand-New-2017-Audi-S7)?p=12939094&viewfull=1#post12939094)

079-121-115-BD Thermostat
079-121-147-G Union

Removed bumper, placed car into service mode, drained coolant, replaced thermostat then replaced the water pump union.
Installed back in reversed order, performed pressure test and held."

The normal coolant pump codes don't look like B11D5 coolant pump fault.

"P149A00 EGR Coolant pump Short-circuit to ground
P149B00 EGR Coolant pump Short circuit to B+
P149C00 EGR Coolant pump Open circuit

P160C00 Coolant pump 2 Open circuit
P160D00 Coolant pump 2 Implausible signal
P160E00 Coolant pump 2 Short-circuit to ground
P160F00 Coolant pump 2 Short circuit to B+

P260000 Coolant Pump Control Circuit open
P260100 Coolant Pump Control Circuit range/performance
P260200 Coolant Pump Control Circuit low
P260300 Coolant Pump Control Circuit high

P261A00 Coolant Pump "B" Control Circuit/Open
P261B00 Coolant Pump "B" Control Circuit Range/Performance
P261C00 Coolant Pump "B" Control Circuit Low
P261D00 Coolant Pump "B" Control Circuit High
"

Yes, that’s the post, but I don’t know if just changing the thermostat fixed the issue. I bit the bullet and ordered a new pump with new thermostat.


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[OlyS6]

Just a wild guess, but terminal 30 is possibly for the pump relay. If so terminal 30 on a relay is typically is the +12v from the battery, so may be worthwhile checking the fuse for it if you haven't already.

Thanks- I’ll check the fuse as well (if I can figure out which fuse it is!)


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[wwhan]

Thanks- I’ll check the fuse as well (if I can figure out which fuse it is!)


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Or might be a loose unlocked connector or connector terminal corrosion.

[dreric]

what was the outcome? I have similar setup with B11D5 error,
and 0378 Circulation Pump B10D0 error,

Thanks- I’ll check the fuse as well (if I can figure out which fuse it is!)


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[OlyS6]

My thermostat was no good. I replaced it and everything was fine. PITA though, but doable as a DIY.


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[dreric]

OlyS6, did you ever find the relay? Or the fuse? I have no heat, but gages are show food oil and coolant Temps....fault codes 0378 Coolant circ pump, B10D0 internal syst fault, 0379 Supply voltage terminal 30 for coolant pump with B11D5 Electrical failure

[OlyS6]

No, I never had to, as everything went well after changing out the thermostat. Looks like one of your auxiliary pumps has failed, but not sure which. The main pump is purely mechanical, with a rod from the engine itself that rotates the turbine in the pump. the only electrical piece is in the thermostat that connects to it. There is another electrical pump behind the firewall, as well as an auxiliary electrical pump for the intercooler that is just in front of the driver's side wheel well. I would try to track down if it is the coolant circulation pump behind the firewall by disconnecting it's electrical connection, and see if instead of your current fault codes that you get an open circuit fault code.

[s4majid]

OlyS6, did you ever find the relay? Or the fuse? I have no heat, but gages are show food oil and coolant Temps....fault codes 0378 Coolant circ pump, B10D0 internal syst fault, 0379 Supply voltage terminal 30 for coolant pump with B11D5 Electrical failure

Have you removed the HVAC controls recently for any reason? If so, clearing the code will probably solve your issue. When installing my RSNav unit, I got this code and had no heat. Cleared the code and everything was fine.

[vtraudt]

My (main) coolant pump is driven of the balance shaft (2016 A6 2.0T). The only electrical coolant pump is the little 'helper' pump (auxilliary or so) that helps circulating coolant through the heater core at low rpm (my understanding).
So when code

0560 - Supply Voltage Terminal 30 for Coolant Pump
B11D5 15 [00001000] - Open or Short to Plus

comes up, is it referring to the little electric pump, or the mechanical pump (with electrical thermostat) and the THERMOSTAT is actually malfunctioning?

Symptoms: erratic hot/cold blowing. NO OVERHEATING.

[vtraudt]

Still have not found info or tips how to determine if the code is referring to the THEMOSTAT (on the MECHANICAL pump; pump itself is NOT electric) or the little electrical pump?