Eurocode Tuning Public Service Announcement!!

[Info@EuroCode]

https://www.ecodetuning.com//images/promo/Ecode-Logo-1024.jpg



PUBLIC SERVICE ANNOUNCEMENT!

Eurocode Tuning has decided to extend to all original purchasing
customers a limited lifetime warranty on all Eurocode Tuning Swaybars.




This warranty will cover:

1) any powder coating defects or peeling within one year of purchase
2) a lifetime warranty on any material defects


C7 Rear Fitment Kits (https://www.ecodetuning.com/EC0202-0506-eurocode-fitment-kit-c7-8r-swaybar.html) are now included with all C7/C7.5 F/R sway bar kits. This kit
was designed to be used with the rear bar set to the stiffest setting when vehicles are lowered more than 10mm.

[kebabman]

Will customers who recently ordered the swaybars be able to receive the C7 rear fitment kit with extended bolts free of charge?

I also purchased the $49.99 front/rear fitment kit with the swaybars, what’s in this fitment kit if it doesn’t include the extended bolts and spacers?

[Info@EuroCode]

Will customers who recently ordered the swaybars be able to receive the C7 rear fitment kit with extended bolts free of charge?

I also purchased the $49.99 front/rear fitment kit with the swaybars, what’s in this fitment kit if it doesn’t include the extended bolts and spacers?

The new retail for the sway bars reflects the addition of the fitment kit. We will be offering free shipping to those in need of this part that were unclear about the requirement for lowered vehicles at the time of their order.

The $49.99 front/rear hardware kit (OEM bolts) that you purchased is an optional item. The factory repair manual requires all of these bolts to be changed upon replacement of the sway bar both front and rear. These are torque to yield bolts and as such are one time use only. We can't think of any other sway bar manufacturer that informs the end user of this requirement, and or makes them available. These items can be purchased through your local Audi dealer, and what we supply are 100% genuine factory bolts purchased through the dealer. These are on our site as a convenience item.

[LawDawg]

Wonder why they had to offer a lifetime warranty on a bent piece of steel? Hmmmm.

[kebabman]

The new retail for the sway bars reflects the addition of the fitment kit. We will be offering free shipping to those in need of this part that were unclear about the requirement for lowered vehicles at the time of their order.

The $49.99 front/rear hardware kit (OEM bolts) that you purchased is an optional item. The factory repair manual requires all of these bolts to be changed upon replacement of the sway bar both front and rear. These are torque to yield bolts and as such are one time use only. We can't think of any other sway bar manufacturer that informs the end user of this requirement, and or makes them available. These items can be purchased through your local Audi dealer, and what we supply are 100% genuine factory bolts purchased through the dealer. These are on our site as a convenience item.

Ok, how do we get the free shipping? Is there a promo code?

[wuplur]

I’m interested in how to get the free shipping as well.

[Kevin1]

Way to go Eurocode! Always a stand-up company.

[AudiC7Owners]

Bravo.

You will never be able to please every person with a complaint, but this is a solid decision to show your dedication to the community.

[Info@EuroCode]

Ok, how do we get the free shipping? Is there a promo code?

Yes there is, please use coupon code "fitkit" during check out, thank you.

[scott99c2]

Wonder why they had to offer a lifetime warranty on a bent piece of steel? Hmmmm.

Maybe because they felt that the risk is so small of returns that it was an easy way to appease a bunch of whiners.

[LawDawg]

Maybe because they felt that the risk is so small of returns that it was an easy way to appease a bunch of whiners.

Probably would have been easier to simply make a product that didn't snap in half, or reached the links it's supposed to bolt to...but I get it.

[Kevin1]

Maybe because they felt that the risk is so small of returns that it was an easy way to appease a bunch of whiners.

Huge plus 1!

[bpd]

No matter how you look at it, EC did it for the consumer. They did not have to.

Would be nice if Continental tires listened to consumers?

https://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/867092-Cracks-on-Continental-DWS-sidewell

[OC Pablo]

145236

Well, thought this concern was all resolved. Even after having EC replace the rear swaybar end link bolts with their approved spacers, at their shop... this happened. And it has happened on both sides now. This time I was not minutes from home but over 3 hours. Nothing like bringing it in on the flatbed, having to rent a car for the week, dealing with this for the 3rd time.

[headbang]

[bpd]

Now that is not good. What did they say about it? Like someone mentioned before, its too long and the vertical forces are just too much. No different when using a breaker bar on a tight bolt, the leverage is too much. If that bolt was made of softer steel, it would most likely be bent.
What car is this on? Stock or lowered? Be good info for everyone.

[OC Pablo]

Now that is not good. What did they say about it? Like someone mentioned before, its too long and the vertical forces are just too much. No different when using a breaker bar on a tight bolt, the leverage is too much. If that bolt was made of softer steel, it would most likely be bent.
What car is this on? Stock or lowered? Be good info for everyone.

Have not had the convo. Bad bolt most likely. Stock A6 Tdi, S-Line.

[bpd]

If this has happened for the 3rd time, its not a bad bolt. Its the wrong bolt. Need one that will meet the requirements for the stresses put on it. I know they said these fitment kit bolts are the same spec as the stock sized bolt. I believe them. They need a bolt that exceeds that standard. You mentioned you had to flatbed your car home. I would think the car is driveable with broken endlinks. Anyway, please let us know what happens and EC's solution.

[LawDawg]

I was thinking about this thread on my way home tonight on my H&R sways that mount, unmodified, to the stock hardware, and which probably won’t snap in half because they are solid. And then I thought of Achtuning, where I bought them, and how I don’t recall them ever being sanctimonious pricks to their customers online.

Guys, this non-OEM, extended bolt nonsense is outrageous. On a load-bearing suspension attachment point on such a heavy car? This has “lipstick on a pig” written all over it.

Anyone considering sways should get the H&R kit, or wait for the Hotchkiss kit which is rumored to be in development (and by “rumor,” I mean: “I spoke with Hotchkiss on the phone about their plans to develop a C7 kit”).

[DeepBlu6]

... You mentioned you had to flatbed your car home. I would think the car is driveable with broken endlinks. Anyway, please let us know what happens and EC's solution.

Drivable, yes. But why risk bringing it home with a bar clanking on the rear?

[OC Pablo]

Drivable, yes. But why risk bringing it home with a bar clanking on the rear?

Exactly, Insurance coverage afforded me the ability to bring it home safely.



I was thinking about this thread on my way home tonight on my H&R sways that mount, unmodified, to the stock hardware, and which probably won’t snap in half because they are solid. And then I thought of Achtuning, where I bought them, and how I don’t recall them ever being sanctimonious pricks to their customers online.

Guys, this non-OEM, extended bolt nonsense is outrageous. On a load-bearing suspension attachment point on such a heavy car? This has “lipstick on a pig” written all over it.

Anyone considering sways should get the H&R kit, or wait for the Hotchkiss kit which is rumored to be in development (and by “rumor,” I mean: “I spoke with Hotchkiss on the phone about their plans to develop a C7 kit”).

Welp... called Achtuning and ordered me a set today. They'll be here in two days. Interestingly, when I asked if the vehicle needed to be on a ramp lift to properly install the swaybars, I was told no, we put these on here on a normal lift, suspension hanging down.

Obviously I will call back just to confirm.

No reason to wait for something, someday from Hotchkiss... they are swaybars, how complex can they be.

[gk1]

Interestingly, when I asked if the vehicle needed to be on a ramp lift to properly install the swayers, I was told no, we put these on here on a normal lift, suspension hanging down.

Obviously I will call back just to confirm.


If you are using stock endlinks the suspension needs to be under normal load. From what I understand if you are using aftermarket links with spherical bearings you can do it with suspension hanging.

[wwhan]

If you are using stock endlinks the suspension needs to be under normal load. From what I understand if you are using aftermarket links with spherical bearings you can do it with suspension hanging.

Using the stock endlinks the suspension needs to be under normal load, only for torqueing the bolts to specification.

[gk1]

Using the stock endlinks the suspension needs to be under normal load, only for torqueing the bolts to specification.

Right-o. Thanks for the clarification.

[ericw.]

I was thinking about this thread on my way home tonight on my H&R sways that mount, unmodified, to the stock hardware, and which probably won’t snap in half because they are solid. And then I thought of Achtuning, where I bought them, and how I don’t recall them ever being sanctimonious pricks to their customers online.

Guys, this non-OEM, extended bolt nonsense is outrageous. On a load-bearing suspension attachment point on such a heavy car? This has “lipstick on a pig” written all over it.

Anyone considering sways should get the H&R kit, or wait for the Hotchkiss kit which is rumored to be in development (and by “rumor,” I mean: “I spoke with Hotchkiss on the phone about their plans to develop a C7 kit”).

Almost up to 2 years installed with my sway bars and no issues so far. I haven't seen Eurocode be a prick to anyone online. You on the other hand... How many months have you been picking this bone?

[kebabman]

Almost up to 2 years installed with my sway bars and no issues so far. I haven't seen Eurocode be a prick to anyone online. You on the other hand... How many months have you been picking this bone?

Are you using the spacer kit? I’ve got a set to install on my RS7 (stock suspension) but I’m really hesitant based on the snapped bars and bolts I keep seeing on here.

[ericw.]

Are you using the spacer kit? I’ve got a set to install on my RS7 (stock suspension) but I’m really hesitant based on the snapped bars and bolts I keep seeing on here.

Yeah I installed the spacer kit on day 1.

[kebabman]

Yeah I installed the spacer kit on day 1.

Ok cool, well good to know. Separately I’m kinda annoyed with EC I ordered an SRM intake on September 2nd and still haven’t received a shipment notification or even an email update with a ”sorry for the delay the eta is this”, keep chasing them via phone and they always say “oh I’ll get so and so to call you right back” and then never call you back. Customer service is definitely not their strong point. [rolleyes]

[ericw.]

Ok cool, well good to know. Separately I’m kinda annoyed with EC I ordered an SRM intake on September 2nd and still haven’t received a shipment notification or even an email update with a ”sorry for the delay the eta is this”, keep chasing them via phone and they always say “oh I’ll get so and so to call you right back” and then never call you back. Customer service is definitely not their strong point. [rolleyes]That sucks, sorry to hear that. So far I've only had good experiences. Maybe you read in another thread but my turbos came in under a week. I guess Eurocode doesn't have the fastpass on all SRM parts after all.

SRM has been known to drop the ball on shipping quite a bit in the past and I know eurocode only drop ships directly from SRM.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

[ericw.]

....

Any word for my man there on his order? Seems he's been pretty patient so far.

[OlyS6]

I have also snapped a bolt to one of my rear endlinks (Eurocode sway bars and links), but it happened on a pretty rough launch. I had the bolt and it' reciever replaced at a local shop, and it's been in the year + since it happened, and I often drive the car pretty hard. I do inspect the links fairly often just to make sure everything is fine...

[LawDawg]

Almost up to 2 years installed with my sway bars and no issues so far. I haven't seen Eurocode be a prick to anyone online. You on the other hand... How many months have you been picking this bone?

I've been picking at this for about 2 months when it crops up. I don't know how closely you followed the thread started by A U D I about his experience with them and the fit kit, but David's response was inappropriate to say the least. In my opinion anyway. I'm not trying to be a crusader about this, but when a company takes the "user error" approach and categorically disclaims any responsibility or even the possibility that *perhaps* their product might leave something to be desired, it strikes a bit of a nerve. This is a theme that I saw repeated in the several threads where people have posted about their front bars snapping in half - something the owner must have done wrong. And Eurocode isn't subtle about shifting blame.

Yeah, I'm being a jerk about this, but it's bonkers that they have the gall to be sanctimonious to members here about their product when (by my count), we're now up to:

(1) 4 "fit kit" (the necessity of which is an issue in and of itself) bolts snapped off in the control arm (counting OlyS6), and
(2) 4 front bars snapped in half

Considering that there are members that breathlessly support anything EC says or does, I feel it's pretty important to swing the pendulum back the other way so that members here get the whole story about the parts, and know that there are other options. Especially so, when EC pays for a member's sway bars in return for suppressing a thread where some very legitimate concerns, and valid negative feedback were aired out.

If that makes me a prick who's spent too long "picking this bone," so be it.

[ericw.]

I've been picking at this for about 2 months when it crops up. I don't know how closely you followed the thread started by A U D I about his experience with them and the fit kit, but David's response was inappropriate to say the least. In my opinion anyway. I'm not trying to be a crusader about this, but when a company takes the "user error" approach and categorically disclaims any responsibility or even the possibility that *perhaps* their product might leave something to be desired, it strikes a bit of a nerve. This is a theme that I saw repeated in the several threads where people have posted about their front bars snapping in half - something the owner must have done wrong. And Eurocode isn't subtle about shifting blame.

Yeah, I'm being a jerk about this, but it's bonkers that they have the gall to be sanctimonious to members here about their product when (by my count), we're now up to:

(1) 4 "fit kit" (the necessity of which is an issue in and of itself) bolts snapped off in the control arm (counting OlyS6), and
(2) 4 front bars snapped in half

Considering that there are members that breathlessly support anything EC says or does, I feel it's pretty important to swing the pendulum back the other way so that members here get the whole story about the parts, and know that there are other options. Especially so, when EC pays for a member's sway bars in return for suppressing a thread where some very legitimate concerns, and valid negative feedback were aired out.

If that makes me a prick who's spent too long "picking this bone," so be it.Imo, I just think every company is going to have issues pop up and there's no need to overreact about it. Audi didn't get these cars right from the factory, how many recalls do we have? Failed turbo thread is going to be up to 10 pages soon if it's not already.

Eurocode is replacing the parts for life now, I wish Audi would do the same.

I've heard a few things through various channels that say the Eurocode and SRM relationship hasn't really panned out the way it was supposed to. Hopefully things get pieced back together though and it's only a delay.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

[LawDawg]

Imo, I just think every company is going to have issues pop up and there's no need to overreact about it. Audi didn't get these cars right from the factory, how many recalls do we have? Failed turbo thread is going to be up to 10 pages soon if it's not already.

Eurocode is replacing the parts for life now, I wish Audi would do the same.

I've heard a few things through various channels that say the Eurocode and SRM relationship hasn't really panned out the way it was supposed to. Hopefully things get pieced back together though and it's only a delay.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

I don't disagree with anything you said.

[AstleyJ]

So since I had my front bar snap a while back and I had to pay for a new set (at a discounted rate), do I now get a refund on the money? @eurocode

[bpd]

I have also snapped a bolt to one of my rear endlinks (Eurocode sway bars and links), but it happened on a pretty rough launch. I had the bolt and it' reciever replaced at a local shop, and it's been in the year + since it happened, and I often drive the car pretty hard. I do inspect the links fairly often just to make sure everything is fine...

What type of bolt snapped? Fitment kit extended bolt or stock bolt?

[OC Pablo]

I have had (2) fitment kit bolts snapped that were installed by EC at their facility on a 4 point lift (NOT a ramp lift.). There we no signs of any fitment issues, no creaks, squeaks or thumps... just a simple loud snap when they let go. Different times, weeks apart, both times pulling into what I would call a 'typical' commercial driveway.

[facepalm]


H&R's arrived today, hoping the bolts arrive tomorrow or it's ANOTHER week of a rental, cost out of my pocket.


[headbang]

[LawDawg]

I have had (2) fitment kit bolts snapped that were installed by EC at their facility on a 4 point lift (NOT a ramp lift.). There we no signs of any fitment issues, no creaks, squeaks or thumps... just a simple loud snap when they let go. Different times, weeks apart, both times pulling into what I would call a 'typical' commercial driveway.

[facepalm]


H&R's arrived today, hoping the bolts arrive tomorrow or it's ANOTHER week of a rental, cost out of my pocket.


[headbang]Eurocode is going to blame the driveway in 3...2...1...

[David@EuroCode]

I have had (2) fitment kit bolts snapped that were installed by EC at their facility on a 4 point lift (NOT a ramp lift.). There we no signs of any fitment issues, no creaks, squeaks or thumps... just a simple loud snap when they let go. Different times, weeks apart, both times pulling into what I would call a 'typical' commercial driveway.

[facepalm]


H&R's arrived today, hoping the bolts arrive tomorrow or it's ANOTHER week of a rental, cost out of my pocket.


[headbang]

Your vehicle arrived with the passenger rear mounting arm cross-threaded, as installed by a 3rd party. We recommended the replacement of the control arm and hardware to correct the issue. You declined the replacement of the arm. Instead, we chased the threads and installed new hardware at your request. We informed you this was not a permanent solution and that the control arm needs to be replaced. The below images were taken by our technician during the install from your control arm.

https://www.ecodetuning.com/images/Before.jpg

https://www.ecodetuning.com/images/After.jpg

The damaged threads in your control arm prevent proper bolt stretch during the torquing process and allow dynamic movement of the fixture leading to fatigue and ultimately failure of the fastener. This is not an issue with the fastener or its loading, this is an issue with improper installation and the subsequent damage. The failure to correct the resulting damage has understandably lead to the failure of the mounting hardware again. We are concerned that you are reporting this as the 3rd failure. All of the hardware was intact, although damaged when you brought the vehicle to us, and the only record we have of hardware for your vehicle was when we supplied the spacers, new hardware, and installation labor to you at no charge. We even conducted the temporary repairs necessary to get you back on the road that the 3rd party had left behind at no charge.

https://www.ecodetuning.com/images/1016.jpg

The number of hardware and sway bar failures pointed out in this thread is a very low percentage of sales volume, but have still lead to us extending our warranty policy for these products to be backed by a lifetime warranty.

We are continually striving to provide light-weight, US manufactured, tuning components at competitive pricing while maintaining reliability. These failures are noted and investigated in an ongoing effort to provide for the needs of the Audi/VW community.

The multitude of ways in which our products are used with relatively low failure rate speaks to the effectiveness of lightweight hollow torsion bars, and our mounting systems. No product is indestructible, nor do we unilaterally assign blame to the end-user but installation error and misapplication are the source of a vast majority of reported failures in our line of torsion bars. The hardware supplied with our products has been sourced from the same vendor since the inception of our swaybar program, over 6 years now.

When we contacted you two days ago to see if we could assist with this matter, you asked us to pay for the replacement cost of your control arm. The same part that was damaged by your technician before your car arrived at our facility.

[LawDawg]

It’s pretty crazy how many people cross thread their control arm connection points trying to get everything to fit without the fit kit. Maybe that’s why your website shouldn’t have been so obtuse about which applications need it. Or better yet, make a bar that just fits in the first place (there’s an idea!).

I know a little bit about this because I cross threaded one side on my S4 installing your B8 kit. When I took it to my indy shop, the owner (who has 30+ years as a M-B master mechanic before opening up his own place) looked at it and told me the OEM bolt was on there tight AF and to leave it alone. Not a single problem in the remaining 5 years I owned the car.

Meanwhile, back to the C7, my H&R kit slid together like a hot knife through butter - easy peasey.

Glad to see you show up with your clockwork blame-shifting and excuse/explanation. Let’s keep tabs on how many of these 4k lb. cars start snapping bolts now that you’re giving them to everybody (because your American-made bar doesn’t fit. I don’t care if my H&R bar was made in the Congo - it fits.

At least other members will see this situation for what it is, and come to their own, fully-informed conclusion - whatever that may be.

That is unless you pay OC Pablo for his parts in exchange for him hiding this thread like you did the last time there was a complaint like this.

[ItsLarryG]

For reference - new control arm $300 labor $400. Literally any other swaybar <$700.

[David@EuroCode]

It’s pretty crazy how many people cross thread their control arm connection points trying to get everything to fit without the fit kit. Maybe that’s why your website shouldn’t have been so obtuse about which applications need it. Or better yet, make a bar that just fits in the first place (there’s an idea!).

Technicians manage to cross thread these arms with the OEM sway bar and hardware from time to time. This happens even at the dealership level and is a direct of negligence nothing more.

Happy Friday!

[ericw.]

It’s pretty crazy how many people cross thread their control arm connection points trying to get everything to fit without the fit kit. Maybe that’s why your website shouldn’t have been so obtuse about which applications need it. Or better yet, make a bar that just fits in the first place (there’s an idea!).

I know a little bit about this because I cross threaded one side on my S4 installing your B8 kit. When I took it to my indy shop, the owner (who has 30+ years as a M-B master mechanic before opening up his own place) looked at it and told me the OEM bolt was on there tight AF and to leave it alone. Not a single problem in the remaining 5 years I owned the car.

Meanwhile, back to the C7, my H&R kit slid together like a hot knife through butter - easy peasey.

Glad to see you show up with your clockwork blame-shifting and excuse/explanation. Let’s keep tabs on how many of these 4k lb. cars start snapping bolts now that you’re giving them to everybody (because your American-made bar doesn’t fit. I don’t care if my H&R bar was made in the Congo - it fits.

At least other members will see this situation for what it is, and come to their own, fully-informed conclusion - whatever that may be.

That is unless you pay OC Pablo for his parts in exchange for him hiding this thread like you did the last time there was a complaint like this.Idk if you've ever done this job yourself but it's pretty easy to cross thread that bolt regardless of hardware. It's the most annoying bolt of the whole job because there's no tolerance for inaccurate threading.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

[gk1]

Idk if you've ever done this job yourself but it's pretty easy to cross thread that bolt regardless of hardware. It's the most annoying bolt of the whole job because there's no tolerance for inaccurate threading.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

I have to 100% disagree. The bolt was quite easy to start by hand which is all it should take to avoid cross-threading. However IF there is a fitment issue I could see maybe the bolt being difficult for some and using air tools to cause the issue.
Question is why didn't the EC shop offer to helicoil the threads knowing it would not last and risking failure? Isn't that just piling ignorance on top of negligence?
I mean what is a quality helicoil kit with tool $25-$30?
I'm sure the answer will be I don't know the whole situation and the OP wanted to get back on the road quickly so there was no time to get a helicoil kit, or they didn't want to fix last mechanic's issues etc. etc......this thread will be removed soon anyway.

[ericw.]

I have to 100% disagree. The bolt was quite easy to start by hand which is all it should take to avoid cross-threading. However IF there is a fitment issue I could see maybe the bolt being difficult for some and using air tools to cause the issue.
Question is why didn't the EC shop offer to helicoil the threads knowing it would not last and risking failure? Isn't that just piling ignorance on top of negligence?
I mean what is a quality helicoil kit with tool $25-$30?
I'm sure the answer will be I don't know the whole situation and the OP wanted to get back on the road quickly so there was no time to get a helicoil kit, or they didn't want to fix last mechanic's issues etc. etc......this thread will be removed soon anyway.I've never met a sway bar that lined up perfectly to allow easy threading of new bolts to the control arm.. 034 sway bar required a very large pry bar and a helping hand while I put in the bolt because it doesn't fit correctly...

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

[Vinng86]

I've never met a sway bar that lined up perfectly to allow easy threading of new bolts to the control arm.. 034 sway bar required a very large pry bar and a helping hand while I put in the bolt because it doesn't fit correctly...

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

Did you torque the top endlink bolt in first before putting in the bottom? 034's lined up pretty well for me on ramps with the suspension compressed. I put in all the bolts loosely by hand and then torque'd them all down after according to their instructions.

I did notice though, EC's instructions have you torque the endlink on first before threading it through the control arms and then attaching the bottom. Which is fine with their ball-bearing endlinks but not so great with the oem rubber endlinks

[ericw.]

Did you torque the top endlink bolt in first before putting in the bottom? 034's lined up pretty well for me on ramps with the suspension compressed. I put in all the bolts loosely by hand and then torque'd them all down after according to their instructions.

I did notice though, EC's instructions have you torque the endlink on first before threading it through the control arms and then attaching the bottom. Which is fine with their ball-bearing endlinks but not so great with the oem rubber endlinks

It's because 034 repurposed their b8 q5 sway bar and the bracket rings are in the wrong place for the A7/S7/RS7. They didn't develop a part for C7.

https://i.imgur.com/qdp6mih.png

https://i.imgur.com/muQRSjy.png

034's scripted response essentially was that it was supposed to be this way.

[David@EuroCode]

I have to 100% disagree. The bolt was quite easy to start by hand which is all it should take to avoid cross-threading. However IF there is a fitment issue I could see maybe the bolt being difficult for some and using air tools to cause the issue.
Question is why didn't the EC shop offer to helicoil the threads knowing it would not last and risking failure? Isn't that just piling ignorance on top of negligence?
I mean what is a quality helicoil kit with tool $25-$30?
I'm sure the answer will be I don't know the whole situation and the OP wanted to get back on the road quickly so there was no time to get a helicoil kit, or they didn't want to fix last mechanic's issues etc. etc......this thread will be removed soon anyway.

Helicoil would never work in that environment, time-sert would be an option. However due to the amount of torque and stretch required to install per factory specifications, and the constant load change, it is abseloutly recommended that the arm be replaced. We advised him of this, but he did not want to pay to proceed with the necessary repairs. He only took the free service we offered which we clearly explained would not be sufficient. Wrote this on the repair order to ensure that in an event such as this, it would not be a question as to why a predicament like this would exist.

https://www.ecodetuning.com/images/1016.jpg

[A U D I]

I've never met a sway bar that lined up perfectly to allow easy threading of new bolts to the control arm.. 034 sway bar required a very large pry bar and a helping hand while I put in the bolt because it doesn't fit correctly...

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

I can comment on experience with the EuroCode rear sway bar. When using the spacer kit and working with the lower control arm bolts first, they were hard but not impossible to put in straight. That said, 1 bolt did not want to thread correctly. It was pulled it and checked it with a nut that proved it was not true. After running the nut a few times on the bolt It was able to true and could be installed. This may be cross threading can start if someone did not notice it and had a similar bolt.
I did install a H&R Sway Bar and can say it was day very smooth install being completed in 20 mins. Super fast and smooth as the hot knife butter statement.

[David@EuroCode]

I can comment on experience with the EuroCode rear sway bar. When using the spacer kit and working with the lower control arm bolts first, they were hard but not impossible to put in straight. That said, 1 bolt did not want to thread correctly. It was pulled it and checked it with a nut that proved it was not true. After running the nut a few times on the bolt It was able to true and could be installed. This may be cross threading can start if someone did not notice it and had a similar bolt.
I did install a H&R Sway Bar and can say it was day very smooth install being completed in 20 mins. Super fast and smooth as the hot knife butter statement.

This customer's vehicle had the rear sway bar installed by a third part using 100% genuine Audi suppied OEM factory bolt, and not the longer bolt we supply with the fitment kit. That's how we found the vehicle when it drove in, with the control arm cross threaded. However there is always that possibility that the 100% genuine Audi supplied part had inconsistent threads, which points to the fact that nobody is perfect, not even our beloved Audi.

[OC Pablo]

In an effort to provide the entire story...

I came to EC to have them check the fitment of their my swaybar after talking to them post installation. I called EC after the initial thread (now removed) about the concerns around fitment which lead to the modification of the hardware by EC and their extending of warranty coverage. EC representatives were very clear that to properly install the swaybars all hardware needed to be torqued to spec with the vehicle at rest on the suspension. (Actually, the factory manual states the axle line should be placed in a position that is equivalent to when the wheel is on and the car is resting on the ground. Ref. Audi Tech manual, section 4.2 I believe. This is exactly how each installation/re-installation was done, including by EC.)

After a discussion it was offered by EC for them to look at my installation and if the fitment needed the spacers, they would do this at no cost. Very appreciated. Original installation was done by performance shop locally. After speaking to EC regarding my concerns about the potential need for the extended bolts, I then had all of the factory bolts/nuts replaced and re-torqued by an authorized EC reseller/shop afterwards who had done many EC swaybar installations. After that, I then decided to have EC check it out for proper fitment, based on what I thought was some end link binding issues.

The opinion of their team (who took the time to communicate with me, answer questions, and give me their honest opinion) was that the fitment would most likely benefit from the spacer. This was validated when I brought my car to their location.

Now during the installation of the extended bolts/spacers... once they got to the right side, it was brought to my attention that the threads were out of whack. After discussing options, it was agreed that they would re-trace the threads, apply some blue loctite and do their best to get the bolt to set. We did agree the lower control arm needed to be replaced.

Again, both parties agreed on that I would not hold EC responsible for any failure, and that I was responsible for replacing the lower control arm.. I signed off on their $0 invoice, with no protest or expectation on their part.

I didn't DENY the offer to replace it for any other reason than what was to be a 15 min 'fix' had now taken over 2 hours and I was not in a place to leave my car with them. I was also very aware that they did not have a control arm on-hand. I assumed the risk, we're all good. Thanks for the help and have a nice day.




... The damaged threads in your control arm prevent proper bolt stretch during the torquing process and allow dynamic movement of the fixture leading to fatigue and ultimately failure of the fastener. This is not an issue with the fastener or its loading, this is an issue with improper installation and the subsequent damage. The failure to correct the resulting damage has understandably lead to the failure of the mounting hardware again. We are concerned that you are reporting this as the 3rd failure. All of the hardware was intact, although damaged when you brought the vehicle to us, and the only record we have of hardware for your vehicle was when we supplied the spacers, new hardware, and installation labor to you at no charge. We even conducted the temporary repairs necessary to get you back on the road that the 3rd party had left behind at no charge.


To be clear... this is the 3rd time I have dealt with this issue of fitment. The first, was when your team installed the spacers and extended bolts. I appreciated the assistance, the free upgrade and labor and in notifying me of the problem with the threads.


Here is where you are not providing the entire story. (Which you have no information on... just assuming I guess.). The second issue is when the EC supplied bolt on the left side failed 3 weeks later. (noted in a previous post you possibly missed?)

There were no reported issues with that control arm. The bolt snapped clean, and I worked with a local shop to replace that bolt with something a bit stronger (thankfully we got the broken off portion without messing up the threads.) My assumption, bad bolt. Sh*t happens. No need to get EC involved... I got it handled. BTW... EC is a good hour north of my location. I have a dozen shops locally and a few very well respected performance shops.

Again... at this point there were no signs of any issues, especially on the right side which was inspected when the left side was repaired.

Then the right side bolt gave way a week ago. Ironically, the part of the bolt left in the right control arm is locked in tight. We have tried a left hand bit (same thing we used on the left side), and short of drilling it out and retapping it there is no way it is going to come out. The point being the 'free fix' provided to me worked from the standpoint of securing the bolt to the control arm.. The control arm needed to be replaced, so it will be, factory parts only.


Both bolts snapped at the same location, where the spacer met the control arm. Again... I have nothing that tells me this was anything more than bad bolts. I am not the person who design it. But I am NOT the person who installed it. This rear sway bar was installed, the entire bolt kit replaced twice (one set of the extended bolts from EC) and the only problem I have had were those bolts. The only thing EC ever installed on this car, was those bolts.

Did the swaybars improve the handling, yes! Was I happy with them, yes! Would I recommend EC swaybars to anyone else, if the fitment does not require the extended bolts, I have no reason not to. For whatever reason, this 'design' does not seem to be a good fit for my car.

[whiteflag]




When we contacted you two days ago to see if we could assist with this matter, you asked us to pay for the replacement cost of your control arm. The same part that was damaged by your technician before your car arrived at our facility.

Now this conversation is taken waaaay out of context. When Adam called me (he'd had called previously and left me a voicemail earlier in the day), I was literally walking out of a meeting at 5:30P. While I can understand why he called, unfortunately the topic of dealing with EC that specific moment was not ideal. I was frustrated, getting into a POS rental car and looking at 2.5 hours of LA traffic... and not in my A6 which is broken AGAIN. I asked Adam in regards to his offer to help... "What do you have in mind? What can you possibly offer me? I don't want another set of bolts, and I have decided to go another route." While I appreciated his commitment to try and help (and his politeness), I know I said (angrily) "I need a new control arm... would you like send me one? No, thanks for the call, I'm good."

Let's be clear David... I did not ask to have the control arm replaced by EC, I stated I needed one. I did not demand that EC owed me ANYTHING. I CLEARLY stated "no thanks", I'm moving on.



Not including the cost of the swaybars... I'm into this 'easy upgrade' so far.

Bolt 'sets' $41 X 2 = $82
Labor to 'properly' install NEW factory bolts by authorized EC shop = $100
Labor to pull out broken left side and new bolt replaced = $145
Rental car for the week after right side bolt snapped off = $120 (Insurance covered $35 a day, 5 days full bill was $295.)


So I'm in over $400 at this point. I don't have a fight with you EC... I was simply commenting (in frustration) that this solution FAILED for me and I'm done.

I WALKED AWAY ASKING FOR NOTHING.

Can you please point to any conversation, email, request of any type where I have asked you for ANYTHING to cover the above costs prior to Andy calling me this week?


And in an effort to protect your product you decided to call me out, publish part of my personal information and continue to leverage these images to prove your point.


OK David... you're right. You win. Forgive me for even mentioning EC or sharing my personal experiences in an open forum. As it pertains to my car, your solution is simply not ideal. Thanks for trying I wish you luck.



Finally...

As for you (and the mods) thinking that publishing any part of my personal info on a public forum was a good idea... we'll discuss that offline if you don't mind.

[LawDawg]

Idk if you've ever done this job yourself but it's pretty easy to cross thread that bolt regardless of hardware. It's the most annoying bolt of the whole job because there's no tolerance for inaccurate threading.

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The second paragraph of my comment begins with “I know a little bit about this because I cross threaded one side on my S4.”

[LawDawg]

I've never met a sway bar that lined up perfectly to allow easy threading of new bolts to the control arm.. 034 sway bar required a very large pry bar and a helping hand while I put in the bolt because it doesn't fit correctly...

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Believe it or not, the H&R bar lined up perfectly. When I cross threaded that bolt on my S4, it was because I was “stretching” everything to get it all back together. It was all very tight and starting the threads was a PITA, then, when they finally started grabbing, SURPRISE, they’re cross-threaded. At that point, even backing out and trying again was futile, and since I was already “half pregnant,” I just plowed ahead. My shop examined it and said it was in there solidly and I left it as-is with no problems for the remainder of my ownership. That’s a mistake I was only going to make once.

There was no stretching or prying with the H&R bar, and everything went back together perfectly as if it was OE...once I got it snaked in past the exhaust, etc. (that part is a pain regardless of whose bar you’re using).