DIY Video: Eurocode Front & Rear Sway Bars + Adjustable End links

[AudiC7Owners]

I've been waiting to get this video done for a while, but between inclement weather and a wife who likes to keep my summer weekends busy, I have hardly had a chance to dedicate a day to filming this. But, this weekend finally yielded enough time to knock it out. I installed the following parts:

Eurocode Front & Rear Sway Bars
Eurocode Front & Rear End Links
Eurocode Debris Covers for the End Links

This install wasn't terribly difficult, but I had a friend there to help me with the rear sway bar. If you do not have a friend to help you, this job will be significantly more difficult. Coax your friend into helping you with promises of Pizza and beer.

Timewise, this install should take you about 2.5-3 hours if you are pretty handy with tools. If you are new to working on cars, it will likely take you a bit longer.

I'd rate the install a 3 out of 5 in terms of difficulty.

Tools & Materials List:

-Long flathead screwdriver
-16mm ratcheting wrench
-16mm standard wrench
-16mm socket + ratchet
-13mm socket + ratchet
-10mm triple square
-Torque wrench
-Front and Rear hardware kit (Replace all your bolts/nuts you remove when you take out your old sway bars/end links)
-Gas-line teflon tape (Helps prevent squeaking between your bushing and sway bar)
-Grease for your sway bar bushings
-Shop towels
-Rubber gloves
-Work light of some kind


Noteworthy Information:

-Link to Eurocode Installation Instructions: https://bit.ly/33siwXE

-In the video, The car is already on jack stands and the bottom covers removed. If you need to see how to do that, go to my youtube page and look at the videos for raising your car and how to remove the front bumper.

-TAKE SPECIAL NOTE of the orientation of your sway bars and how they sit in the car before you remove them. Take pictures, videos, make drawings, etc. Have something to reference so you know how to put your new bars in.

-Use the Gas-Line Teflon Tape on your sway bar before you grease it. This will help reduce the risk of having any squeaking between your sway bar bushing and your sway bar.

-For lowered cars, you will want to buy the Rear Fitment Kit: https://bit.ly/2Mf47IY

Updates:

-I forgot to mention that you need to tighten the bracket bolts down evenly before torquing them down.

-After posting this video and speaking with Eurocode about a couple things pertaining to the install, they informed me that the Dust Boots/Debris Covers on the endlinks need to be filled with Marine Grease to prevent premature wear of the bearings and stop any dirt from getting in. This wasn't listed on any directions in their installation PDF's on their website, so I didn't do it. Luckily, these are easy to access and I should be able to use a small plastic syringe to inject them with grease. I'll edit this after I do that to report back if it works or not.

-To those of you using OEM End links, you should torque them down under load. If you are using the aftermarket end links with bearings that spin freely, you do not have to. Check out the following two comments for better clarification. Thanks guys!


If you use stock end links, then yes, torque end link bolts at loaded ride height, to prevent damage to the rubber bushings under stress.

If using Eurocode end links, then it does not matter, since the end link bearings rotate freely.


Since he used aftermarket endlinks with spherical joints and polyurethane bushing with teflon and grease it doesn't matter.
All the rubber bushes on the OE bars and links need to be torqued under load as mentioned. Since they do not allow for free movement and there is a maximum amount of movement available in the rubber bushes.


Don't forget to like the video and subscribe to the channel if you haven't already. You can also follow my C7 Instagram page @AudiC7Owners


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nA4EIN73j_g

[Vinng86]

When you torque suspension components you're supposed to do it with the suspension compressed. You might be applying some unintentional load to the sway bar or end link bolts. It's a lot easier to put the bolt back into the rear end link too, it lines up perfectly. You can see your wheel hub/lower control arm popped downwards an inch when you removed the end link bolt @ 1:06.

IMO, ramps are essential for sway bar DIY for this reason. Audi also recommends you torque in "curb weight position" (i.e. suspension compressed on normal weight)

[AudiC7Owners]

When you torque suspension components you're supposed to do it with the suspension compressed. You might be applying some unintentional load to the sway bar or end link bolts. It's a lot easier to put the bolt back into the rear end link too, it lines up perfectly. You can see your wheel hub/lower control arm popped downwards an inch when you removed the end link bolt @ 1:06.

IMO, ramps are essential for sway bar DIY for this reason. Audi also recommends you torque in "curb weight position" (i.e. suspension compressed on normal weight)

**Edit: Better explanation posted in the next two comments**

[wwhan]

When you torque suspension components you're supposed to do it with the suspension compressed. You might be applying some unintentional load to the sway bar or end link bolts. It's a lot easier to put the bolt back into the rear end link too, it lines up perfectly. You can see your wheel hub/lower control arm popped downwards an inch when you removed the end link bolt @ 1:06.

IMO, ramps are essential for sway bar DIY for this reason. Audi also recommends you torque in "curb weight position" (i.e. suspension compressed on normal weight)

If you use stock end links, then yes, torque end link bolts at loaded ride height, to prevent damage to the rubber bushings under stress.

If using Eurocode end links, then it does not matter, since the end link bearings rotate freely.

[gk1]

When you torque suspension components you're supposed to do it with the suspension compressed. You might be applying some unintentional load to the sway bar or end link bolts. It's a lot easier to put the bolt back into the rear end link too, it lines up perfectly. You can see your wheel hub/lower control arm popped downwards an inch when you removed the end link bolt @ 1:06.

IMO, ramps are essential for sway bar DIY for this reason. Audi also recommends you torque in "curb weight position" (i.e. suspension compressed on normal weight)

Since he used aftermarket endlinks with spherical joints and polyurethane bushing with teflon and grease it doesn't matter.
All the rubber bushes on the OE bars and links need to be torqued under load as mentioned. Since they do not allow for free movement and there is a maximum amount of movement available in the rubber bushes.

[gk1]

If you use stock end links, then yes, torque end link bolts at loaded ride height, to prevent damage to the rubber bushings under stress.

If using Eurocode end links, then it does not matter, since the end link bearings rotate freely.

LoL. We are on the same page...I am 1 minute behind. :)

[Vinng86]

Ah so those are actual bearings on the ends of those end links. I see. This is good information to know

[wwhan]

Ah so those are actual bearings on the ends of those end links. I see. This is good information to know

Yes, they are real bearings, for me, they lasted about 1.5 years before needing a rebuild on my B8 S4 and C7 S6.

Eurocode ÜSS Front End Link Rebuild Kit B8/C7 (https://www.ecodetuning.com/EC0202-0110-eurocode-uss-front-end-link-rebuild-kit-b8-c7.html)
"Over time the nylon coating on our spherical bearings will begin to wear. Use this rebuild kit to get them back to 100% working condition!"

Eurocode ÜSS Rear End Link Rebuild Kit B8/C7 (https://www.ecodetuning.com/EC0202-0114-eurocode-uss-rear-end-link-rebuild-kit-b8-c7.html)
"Overtime the nylon coating on our spherical bearings will begin to wear. Use this rebuild kit to get them back to 100% working condition!

Contains 4 bearings to replace a full rear end link set."

[Hofahome]

Good writeup and thanks.
Btw, while the end links do help, I dont think i would do them again for a DD. Too much hassle/noise when they start to fail and it took only a year before they took a shit.


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[AudiC7Owners]

If you use stock end links, then yes, torque end link bolts at loaded ride height, to prevent damage to the rubber bushings under stress.

If using Eurocode end links, then it does not matter, since the end link bearings rotate freely.


Since he used aftermarket endlinks with spherical joints and polyurethane bushing with teflon and grease it doesn't matter.
All the rubber bushes on the OE bars and links need to be torqued under load as mentioned. Since they do not allow for free movement and there is a maximum amount of movement available in the rubber bushes.


Ah so those are actual bearings on the ends of those end links. I see. This is good information to know


Yes, they are real bearings, for me, they lasted about 1.5 years before needing a rebuild on my B8 S4 and C7 S6.

Eurocode ÜSS Front End Link Rebuild Kit B8/C7 (https://www.ecodetuning.com/EC0202-0110-eurocode-uss-front-end-link-rebuild-kit-b8-c7.html)
"Over time the nylon coating on our spherical bearings will begin to wear. Use this rebuild kit to get them back to 100% working condition!"

Eurocode ÜSS Rear End Link Rebuild Kit B8/C7 (https://www.ecodetuning.com/EC0202-0114-eurocode-uss-rear-end-link-rebuild-kit-b8-c7.html)
"Overtime the nylon coating on our spherical bearings will begin to wear. Use this rebuild kit to get them back to 100% working condition!

Contains 4 bearings to replace a full rear end link set."


Good writeup and thanks.
Btw, while the end links do help, I dont think i would do them again for a DD. Too much hassle/noise when they start to fail and it took only a year before they took a shit.


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Thank you guys for the more detailed explanation and information. Going to add this to the original post information.

[AudiC7Owners]

Good writeup and thanks.
Btw, while the end links do help, I dont think i would do them again for a DD. Too much hassle/noise when they start to fail and it took only a year before they took a shit.


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I've heard that as well. Did you have the Dust/Debris covers on your end links?

I made sure to save my stock end links just in case (they weren't in bad shape at all)

[Hofahome]

I've heard that as well. Did you have the Dust/Debris covers on your end links?

I made sure to save my stock end links just in case (they weren't in bad shape at all)

Yes I did. Other option is to get the moog endlinks which are metal with rubber bushings. IIRC the stock endlinks are plastic but not sure if Audi changed them to metal since I last saw.


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[gk1]

Yes I did. Other option is to get the moog endlinks which are metal with rubber bushings. IIRC the stock endlinks are plastic but not sure if Audi changed them to metal since I last saw.


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FWIW the stock S6 front endlinks are metal with rubber bushings. Might be a minor upgrade for older A6 folks. I think the newer A6's might be metal too...not sure.
The rears are still plastic, but much shorter...same on A6 or S6.

S6 metal front link. 4M0411317 MSRP $140.
https://c1552172.ssl.cf0.rackcdn.com/686381_x800.webp

compared to A6 plastic.
https://cdn.autoteilexxl.de/uploads/360_photos/8101055/preview.jpg

[AudiC7Owners]

My 2013 front end links are plastic/rubber


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[AudiC7Owners]

Ok guys, need some advice:

The car still feels great, but i am hearing a clunk sound from the front of the car when i get the front wheels unlevel (hitting a bump, or turning over an incline with one wheel).

I'm guessing I need to shorten my front end links just a smudge since they are the exact length of the oem links, but the bar is thicker. I'm guessing I'm tapping something whenever the suspension flexes.

I don't hear the clunk when I go over something with both wheels evenly (like train tracks).

Any ideas? Want to know what to look for before I dive under the car again.

I'm also going to check my strut tower Brace just to cross it off the list.


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[gk1]

Ok guys, need some advice:

The car still feels great, but i am hearing a clunk sound from the front of the car when i get the front wheels unlevel (hitting a bump, or turning over an incline with one wheel).

I'm guessing I need to shorten my front end links just a smudge since they are the exact length of the oem links, but the bar is thicker. I'm guessing I'm tapping something whenever the suspension flexes.

I don't hear the clunk when I go over something with both wheels evenly (like train tracks).

Any ideas? Want to know what to look for before I dive under the car again.

I'm also going to check my strut tower Brace just to cross it off the list.


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I also have a 32mm thick front bar with stock links and no clunk. So unless there is a different bend to the Eurocode vs H&R then I'd think the stock end link length should be ok.
Any lowering springs installed?
Check control arm bushings too...maybe the new sway bar is exposing bushing failures that you did not notice before?

[Hofahome]

Ok guys, need some advice:

The car still feels great, but i am hearing a clunk sound from the front of the car when i get the front wheels unlevel (hitting a bump, or turning over an incline with one wheel).

I'm guessing I need to shorten my front end links just a smudge since they are the exact length of the oem links, but the bar is thicker. I'm guessing I'm tapping something whenever the suspension flexes.

I don't hear the clunk when I go over something with both wheels evenly (like train tracks).

Any ideas? Want to know what to look for before I dive under the car again.

I'm also going to check my strut tower Brace just to cross it off the list.


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Strut tower brace??? More info please.


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[AudiC7Owners]

I also have a 32mm thick front bar with stock links and no clunk. So unless there is a different bend to the Eurocode vs H&R then I'd think the stock end link length should be ok.
Any lowering springs installed?
Check control arm bushings too...maybe the new sway bar is exposing bushing failures that you did not notice before?

My control arm bushings aren't horrid, but definitely due for a change. Car is on stock sport springs. I'll give em a good inspection though


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[AudiC7Owners]

Strut tower brace??? More info please.


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Here you go!


https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink?share_fid=17679&share_tid=751287&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww%2Eaudizine%2Ecom%2Fforum%2Fs howthread%2Ephp%3Ft%3D751287&share_type=t


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[AudiC7Owners]

Updated the OP with some important info:

After posting this video and speaking with Eurocode about a couple things pertaining to the install, they informed me that the Dust Boots/Debris Covers on the endlinks need to be filled with Marine Grease to prevent premature wear of the bearings and stop any dirt from getting in. This wasn't listed on any directions in their installation PDF's on their website, so I didn't do it. Luckily, these are easy to access and I should be able to use a small plastic syringe to inject them with grease. I'll edit this after I do that to report back if it works or not.

[kebabman]

These threads are making me want to not fit my eurocode swaybars and end links, sounds like more hassle than it’s worth. Might just sell them and stick with the stock setup. 🤔

[jche8]

They’re a great upgrade and I wouldn’t let a few minor issues sway you away. The install is pretty straight forward, but someone to help with the rear is a big plus. Only issue I had was not knowing you needed the lowered fitment kit even with the sline suspension. I went with the Moog endlinks to avoid later clicking issues down the road.


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[IowaRS7]

These threads are making me want to not fit my eurocode swaybars and end links, sounds like more hassle than it’s worth. Might just sell them and stick with the stock setup. 🤔

The car's ability to handle corners truly transforms with these bars installed. Its night and day. Why let some crap on the forum rob you of enjoying your ride so much more?

I tend to learn something with every new mod or install I do (often end up having to order more tools too [:D]), that is part of the journey and the joy of working on cars. It can also be quite frustrating at times, especially if you find yourself lacking the tools or knowing the little tricks. I know many that don't care about that aspect of modding, so they just take the car to the local Indy shop and have the install done there and then they just enjoy the car. Like the OP learned that you need to grease the boots, now he knows and he shared it with others. I learned years ago to add teflon tape to the bars where the bushing is installed to help with any squeaking. Works like a charm on every car I have ever installed bars on.

[AudiC7Owners]

The car's ability to handle corners truly transforms with these bars installed. Its night and day. Why let some crap on the forum rob you of enjoying your ride so much more?

I tend to learn something with every new mod or install I do (often end up having to order more tools too [:D]), that is part of the journey and the joy of working on cars. It can also be quite frustrating at times, especially if you find yourself lacking the tools or knowing the little tricks. I know many that don't care about that aspect of modding, so they just take the car to the local Indy shop and have the install done there and then they just enjoy the car. Like the OP learned that you need to grease the boots, now he knows and he shared it with others. I learned years ago to add teflon tape to the bars where the bushing is installed to help with any squeaking. Works like a charm on every car I have ever installed bars on.

Exactly


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[wwhan]

These threads are making me want to not fit my eurocode swaybars and end links, sounds like more hassle than it’s worth. Might just sell them and stick with the stock setup. 🤔

If you don't want to use the Eurocode bars, you can always get the H&R 72092 Front and Rear Sway Bar Kit Audi C7 (https://www.achtuning.com/h-r-72092-front-and-rear-sway-bar-kit-audi-c7/), but they also do not include the nuts and bolts.

Audi sway bar nuts and bolts:

Front Sway bar
4 each - N90183803, NUT (4). Stabilizer. Bar. Lock. Link. Left. Right. Stabilizer bar nut, $1.08 list ea
2 each - N10570702 Bolt (6). Bar. Left. Right. Stabilizer link front bolt. front, $2.96 list ea
2 each - N10286110 Nut (7). Lock. Arm. Mount. Left. Right. Stabilizer link lock nut, $1.34 list ea

Rear sway bar
4 each - N10644701 (2) Stabilizer bar bolt, list $1.94 ea
4 each - N90997802 (4) stabilizer link bolt, list $4.28 ea
2 each - N10272302 (5) stabilizer link lock nut, list $2.38 ea

[Nealbaby]

Hey there! Thank you so much for the post. I'm installing this week. Do you happen to still have one of those old front end links around? Long story short, I don't trust the length mine are set to now and I want the new ones to be the correct measurement before I install. I know this is an old post, so thanks for any help you can give.

JN

[AudiC7Owners]

Hey there! Thank you so much for the post. I'm installing this week. Do you happen to still have one of those old front end links around? Long story short, I don't trust the length mine are set to now and I want the new ones to be the correct measurement before I install. I know this is an old post, so thanks for any help you can give.

JNNope. But you can adjust yours if you already have adjustable end links

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[jobu72]

Hey there! Thank you so much for the post. I'm installing this week. Do you happen to still have one of those old front end links around? Long story short, I don't trust the length mine are set to now and I want the new ones to be the correct measurement before I install. I know this is an old post, so thanks for any help you can give.

JN

@Nealbaby, not sure if you still need that info, but within the next couple weeks, I'll be installing everything just like the OP. I can get a measurement of the old end links.

@AudiC7owners, how many miles have you put on since then? Any sense of how well the end link bearings are holding up? One person mentioned 1.5 years, which feels like a really short time to have to worry about something like this, but didn't mention number of miles or how hard they drive.

To OP and everyone else, a question ... documentation for the rear suggest to install on the more sporty/stiffer setting "inner" hole. Documentation for the front suggest to install on the less stiff setting "outer" hole, unless tracking the car. I have done a couple HPDE track days last year, hence me getting new bars. I plan to do more, maybe only up to a couple a year. Any suggestions on when to install on the more stiff setting for the front? I usually run with very good summer tires, such as Michelin PS4S.

[jobu72]

Eurocode replied to my question after asking again. They said they recommend using a the stiffer front setting if doing a lot of straight high speed driving, like drag racing. If normal track driving, still going with the softer setting in the front is best.

[sepheroth86]

On FWD and AWD vehicles that typically understeer: Add a stiffer rear bar with leaving the front bar alone or removing entirely.

[THCarpenter]

As an owner of the bars with Adjustable front and rear links......

GO SOFT ON THE FRONT or you will be fighting the front plane, and have near zero nose turn in

[jobu72]

I completed my install today. It must be easier to do on the A6 than S6 (2014). Front was pretty much the same, quite easy. Here are some comments/differences about the rear though ...
- When (or before) unlatching the exhaust from the rubber hanger, first check if you have valved exhaust, to disconnect the wire plugs.
- I could find no way to get the rear bar out without removing the end links and wheels.
- I also has to remove the heatshield that covers the 4430201871 air suspension pump to gain more wiggle room.
- This also meant I needed to install the rear and links after the new bar was put in place as well.

An addition to the tools list, if installing the rear fitment kit (extra spacer), that is a 17mm socket instead of 16mm.

Also, not sure if Eurocode changed their recommendations since this article and video were created, but they now recommend to install that rear fitment kit if lowered, or if just even using the stiffer inside setting.
https://www.ecodetuning.com/ec0202-0501r-eurocode-tuning-uss-adjustable-sway-bar-set-f-r-a6-s6-rs6-a7-s7-rs7.html
Lowering the ride height on factory air suspension equipped cars alters the geometry of the control arm and may produce a slight misalignment of the end link. This includes S-Line model vehicles that have a lower ride height. To rectify this situation we include a fitment kit with every C7 swaybar set. We also recommend using this kit if you intend to set the rear sway bar to the stiffest setting regardless of ride height.