Low Oil Pressure Warning... Part 2.

[Cyrik]

LOP = Low Oil Pressure.

Part 1 Here: https://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/837748-Random-Low-Oil-Pressure-Warning

Long story short, yesterday I got off work early and I wanted to run a few errands since I had the time. Easter was tomorrow. On my way back towards home ONCE AGAIN my LOP warning popped up. I was just down the road from where the shop I work at is. Quickly made a phone call and pulled in and did a quick oil change. Had a look at the filter which was the reason why I was getting LOP warning in the past, OEM filter looked fine, it hadn't collapsed like before. Figured it might help mitigate the issue for a short time til I can get some time to check out the car a bit more, my weekend is booked. Changed out the filter, drained the oil, topped the car off and went about my day haha. Drove 60 miles to the next city and had zero issues. Even tried to replicate the problem as I was driving (slowly decelerating from 6th gear to a stop is what commonly caused the LOP warning.)

On my way back home this morning, LOP warning popped up again. From that very moment I knew this was going to be different.

Some background on the car since my last post:

Car has been mechanically sound since my last post on the old thread. Since then I have replaced the following parts:

- PCV
- PCV Breather Tube
- Coil Packs
- Spark plugs
- Oil pressure switch
- Re-seated valve cover (to fix a small leak coming out one of the screwholes)
- Oil changes every 2k miles
- Oil filter housing assembly leak fixed with new gaskets on housing and oil cooler.

Things I have NOT checked/done that I THINK is causing the issue:

- Oil Pump
- Pickup Tube
- Cam Follower
- Fuel Pumps and all related parts (lines, filters, etc.)

Things that I know have been replaced on the car but not from my ownership:
- Cam follower/HPFP
- Intake Camshaft
- Oil Pump
- Head Gasket

Since I haven't checked my Cam Follower in at least 30k miles, I'm going to start there and see if this is the issue. Bits of my cam follower are probably clogged in my pickup-tube from not changing it. If the cam follower is worn I think I'm going to drop the oil pan, is this my best course of action? Also, is there a way to see an issue like this in Vag-Com? Any numbers to look for regarding fuel pressure? Thanks.

https://i.imgur.com/Z0zREgy.jpg

[Theiceman]

Bottom line is you have to drop the pan and go from there.


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[Cyrik]

Checked my Cam Follower, actually looked MUCH better than I expected.

Also worth mentioning... in the last thread EvolutionArmory mentioned that only replacing gaskets on the oil filter housing isn't a good idea since it's plastic and that plastic can warp due to heat cycles. I'm pretty sure it's leaking again, should I just cut my losses and replace the whole filter housing assembly?

Also, I'm thinking of investing in an electronic oil pressure gauge for the future, so I can actually see what the hell is going on lol.

https://i.imgur.com/gnFbUxV.jpg

[Theiceman]

Id forget everything else right now until you fix you pressure problems
Get that pan dropped.


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[VSMotorsports]

Agree /\ /\ because this is what happens when u don’t 117569


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[EvolutionArmory]

Id forget everything else right now until you fix you pressure problems
Get that pan dropped.


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Yup. It’s like worrying about a paper cut when you’re one jelly donut away from a heart attack.

[Cyrik]

Thanks for the input guys, will be dropping the pan as soon as I can.

It's a long process to get that pan off, I'm going to aim for next week on my day off cause I'm very very busy. I'll have access to a lift which should make things easier. I don't want to have to drive the car much but I must as it's my daily driver.

I'll keep all of you posted what I find. Let's do this :)

Also I'm going to look at replacing my filter housing assembly while I'm at it. Think this part could be causing issues as well since it's leaking?

Edit: I know still driving the car may do more harm than good with the condition the car is in, but I don't have much of the choice right now. I'm willing to take my chances.

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[MGG2009]

I have a 2009 Audi A4 Quattro 2.0t and I've experienced the same problems as others... I've replaced the oil filter, and oil and when I drive car runs good, but after the Audi has reached operating temp. and I come up to a stop or when in idle then the oil pressure warning light turns on and beeps, when you press your SET button it tells a little bit more descriptive message "turn off engine and check oil level", now the oil level is good and I know this because I've checked it various times and the oil level remains "ok", the warning light only comes on as the rpms drops below 1000 RPMS as I keep it above 1RPM it continues to run smoothly, I also seen that the problem may be a PVC valve leak, and my Audi does have a PVC valve leak (I checked it) which may cause the loss in oil pressure... I've ordered the part and hopefully this will fix the problem, if not I'm going to be looking at the oil pressure sensor.

[Cyrik]

I have a 2009 Audi A4 Quattro 2.0t and I've experienced the same problems as others... I've replaced the oil filter, and oil and when I drive car runs good, but after the Audi has reached operating temp. and I come up to a stop or when in idle then the oil pressure warning light turns on and beeps, when you press your SET button it tells a little bit more descriptive message "turn off engine and check oil level", now the oil level is good and I know this because I've checked it various times and the oil level remains "ok", the warning light only comes on as the rpms drops below 1000 RPMS as I keep it above 1RPM it continues to run smoothly, I also seen that the problem may be a PVC valve leak, and my Audi does have a PVC valve leak (I checked it) which may cause the loss in oil pressure... I've ordered the part and hopefully this will fix the problem, if not I'm going to be looking at the oil pressure sensor.

Go through all the necessary steps. Do an oil change with ONLY an OEM filter, as other cheaper filters WILL collapse in a short amount of time. Check your cam follower, see if it's worn. If bits of your cam follower are floating around in your oil pan most likely its due to the pickup screen being clogged from these shavings. I'm starting to believe this is my problem I'm facing.

If this is the case, it's time to drop the oil pan, no other way around it. Also worth checking your oil pump/ balance shafts while your at it too, and replace it accordingly.

[Brillo]

I have a 2009 Audi A4 Quattro 2.0t and I've experienced the same problems as others... I've replaced the oil filter, and oil and when I drive car runs good, but after the Audi has reached operating temp. and I come up to a stop or when in idle then the oil pressure warning light turns on and beeps, when you press your SET button it tells a little bit more descriptive message "turn off engine and check oil level", now the oil level is good and I know this because I've checked it various times and the oil level remains "ok", the warning light only comes on as the rpms drops below 1000 RPMS as I keep it above 1RPM it continues to run smoothly, I also seen that the problem may be a PVC valve leak, and my Audi does have a PVC valve leak (I checked it) which may cause the loss in oil pressure... I've ordered the part and hopefully this will fix the problem, if not I'm going to be looking at the oil pressure sensor.

What is a PCV valve leak and how do you know you have a leak - please be specific? Also, please explain how you think your PCV valve will affect your oil pressure? Thanks, Brillo

[Cyrik]

Ran out to Audi to get more details on that service I mentioned at 72k, turns out it's a lot worse than I thought. This is important to note as I have a theory.

https://i.imgur.com/PZ9Drqa.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/8aoe1sK.jpg

After getting the printout of the service (above) I noticed a slight problem; This job was paid by Audi for warranty work as the cam follower was never designed to have to be replaced. As most of you probably don't know, warranty work in a shop almost NEVER pays the same as paid work from the customer, it's usually quite a bit less. I know this from experience working at Honda. (For example, there's a timing belt recall on some new model Pilots, Odysseys and Ridgelines, the work only pays roughly 3 hours instead of 4 for a new timing belt).

I think the tech that did this work rushed a bit and probably didn't clean out the pickup tube or the pan thoroughly. I'm not saying the tech that did the work is bad by any means, he's getting paid less than normal for a job like this, and probably cut a couple corners to get the job done faster.

On another note, it doesn't look like the pickup-tube was replaced unless it came with the new oil pump and wasn't listed as a separate item. I've been told there's a revised pick-up tube design, correct?

[Theiceman]

Thats a lot of maybes and assumptions.
How about tech did everything right. And your oil pump assembly is just beat.
Or someone put a cheap crap oil filter in somewhere along the way and it collapsed and plugged your intake.

No offence but i think all your theory’s are way off and not based on any sound evidence. I new your cam follower would be fine but i new you would find that out on your own.

Oh by the way i think about 95% of us know warranty pays less than retail so i don’t why you would assume we are not informed.

With all due respect drop the theories of looking for someone to blame and get on with fixing it.



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[Theiceman]

I have a 2009 Audi A4 Quattro 2.0t and I've experienced the same problems as others... I've replaced the oil filter, and oil and when I drive car runs good, but after the Audi has reached operating temp. and I come up to a stop or when in idle then the oil pressure warning light turns on and beeps, when you press your SET button it tells a little bit more descriptive message "turn off engine and check oil level", now the oil level is good and I know this because I've checked it various times and the oil level remains "ok", the warning light only comes on as the rpms drops below 1000 RPMS as I keep it above 1RPM it continues to run smoothly, I also seen that the problem may be a PVC valve leak, and my Audi does have a PVC valve leak (I checked it) which may cause the loss in oil pressure... I've ordered the part and hopefully this will fix the problem, if not I'm going to be looking at the oil pressure sensor.

I think you need to have someone who knows these engines look st your car. Or you are going to spend a lot of money throwing parts at this car that wont fix anything.


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[Cyrik]

Thats a lot of maybes and assumptions.
How about tech did everything right. And your oil pump assembly is just beat.
Or someone put a cheap crap oil filter in somewhere along the way and it collapsed and plugged your intake.

No offence but i think all your theory’s are way off and not based on any sound evidence. I new your cam follower would be fine but i new you would find that out on your own.

Oh by the way i think about 95% of us know warranty pays less than retail so i don’t why you would assume we are not informed.

With all due respect drop the theories of looking for someone to blame and get on with fixing it.



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I'm not trying to say I know more than anyone else here on this forum, because I don't. If that was the case I wouldn't be on here lol. In the end it seems like I hardly know anything. If that's the impression I'm giving I'm sorry.

And by no means am I saying people aren't informed about warranty work. That was something I phrased wrong. Nor am I trying to bash the person who did the work on my car. It's one hell of a job and I probably can't do something as extensive as that repair was, new head and oil pump and all other parts all at once?

I've been overthinking everything on this car lately and it's traveled to my personal life, car cars cars. The dream of having everything working correctly on this car is slipping. I know it's a 13 year old Audi, but I strive to make it the best I can. I love thinking outside the box sometimes, of what is and what isn't. I'm on here because I'm asking the community for help, and from past experience the help on here is the best I've ever heard.

Anyways, I'm still dropping the oil pan to check things out. Will post an update within the next week.

[Theiceman]

Yup dropping the pan is the absolute next step. I think you will find the pickup fine.
Make sure to inspect the balance shaft assembly regardless of what you see on the pickup.


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[MGG2009]

What is a PCV valve leak and how do you know you have a leak - please be specific? Also, please explain how you think your PCV valve will affect your oil pressure? Thanks, Brillo

My dad is my mechanic, (he's worked on vehicles all his life, mostly American but he does have the necessary experience of diagnosing and fixing foreign cars) he's currently working on a couple cars but when he has free time he helps me out with my Audi (I know how to do simple stuff, but anything that seems major dealing with the engine he checks it out) anyway he showed my how the PCV or "crankcase vent valve" has a leak by showing me how the suction through both hose were good and kept the car running smoothly, (which meant that the two hoses did not need to be replaced, examined each hose, parts and seals were good) but by connecting the hose back to the crankcase vent valve you could hear a squeal as it has a leak and while suctioning you get loss in performance, (I'm not really sure what this meant entirely but it does need fixing also by scanning the engine the code that was found deals with an engine leak, we will replace the part as it comes in tomorrow) I also asked him if this air leak had anything to do with the loss of oil pressure and he said No that it shouldn't affect it as they are different systems, He didn't have time to check the reason for "oil pressure loss" warning (he just went off by what I told him the Audi was doing" but he will check it out later this week but he is leaning towards the "oil pressure sensor"

[Cyrik]

Yup dropping the pan is the absolute next step. I think you will find the pickup fine.
Make sure to inspect the balance shaft assembly regardless of what you see on the pickup.


Sent from my iPhone using Audizine (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=87676)If I see my balance shaft is loose, I can do a balance shaft delete at the cost of some extra vibration, correct?

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[Theiceman]

Yes and no.
You cant just cut the gears and delete that way as you will still spew oil out of the large clearance.
But if you could somehow cut the gears. Remove the shafts and weld up the feed holes that might work.

I have not done it but lots of guys have so im sure they will chime in.


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[Theiceman]

I was bored so read your entire part one again
So how clogged with fram filter material are you expecting on your pickup ?
Thats what its looking like.
Im interested to know what you find when you get that pan dropped.


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[Brillo]

My dad is my mechanic, (he's worked on vehicles all his life, mostly American but he does have the necessary experience of diagnosing and fixing foreign cars) he's currently working on a couple cars but when he has free time he helps me out with my Audi (I know how to do simple stuff, but anything that seems major dealing with the engine he checks it out) anyway he showed my how the PCV or "crankcase vent valve" has a leak by showing me how the suction through both hose were good and kept the car running smoothly, (which meant that the two hoses did not need to be replaced, examined each hose, parts and seals were good) but by connecting the hose back to the crankcase vent valve you could hear a squeal as it has a leak and while suctioning you get loss in performance, (I'm not really sure what this meant entirely but it does need fixing also by scanning the engine the code that was found deals with an engine leak, we will replace the part as it comes in tomorrow) I also asked him if this air leak had anything to do with the loss of oil pressure and he said No that it shouldn't affect it as they are different systems, He didn't have time to check the reason for "oil pressure loss" warning (he just went off by what I told him the Audi was doing" but he will check it out later this week but he is leaning towards the "oil pressure sensor"

OK MGG2009, appreciate the quick reply. The additional information is somewhat helpful. This is a B7 forum but I think the B8 engines are quite similar. The crankcase venting systems on forced induction engines are more complex than a NA engine. VW/Audi has gone out of its way to develop a system that keeps the crankcase under slight vacuum during boost conditions as well as under non-boost (idle and low RPM) conditions. Your dad may know this but briefly stated, under idle and low RPM the crankcase is vented directly through the PCV valve to the intake manifold (IM), and that line is easy to pick out. Incorporated in the PCV valve just prior to that line is a check valve which keeps gas flow from going from the IM into the crankcase under boost conditions.

Under boost conditions the PCV valve directs crankcase blow-by gases through a valve cover (VC) passageway directly to a pre-TC port on the front right side of the engine. At the top of the hard line going from the VC to the pre-TC port is another check valve that keeps gas flow from going from the pre-TC port into the PCV valve and on into the IM. There is a diaphragm valve in the PCV valve body that does the gas flow proportioning depending upon IM pressure. Any of these three valves can malfunction. Torn diaphragms was a common problem with early PCV valves, and may occasionally still occur. I'm told that sometimes they can whistle (or squeal as you say) at certain RPMs. Apparently, you have a new PCV valve coming so that should solve that potential problem. (Often VAG refers to this valve as a 'pressure control valve' or a 'pressure regulating valve'.) When you have the PCV valve off the VC make sure there is no leak in the VC passageway by seeing if it will hold pressure or a vacuum (Most forward opening in the PCV valve to the larger diameter port on the right front of the VC). This has been a constant problem for this engine.

Regarding the oil pressure, be sure to check oil pressure with a mechanical gauge at various RPMs prior to replacing parts such as the go/no-go oil pressure sensor to rule out other possible causes of low oil pressure (of which there are several). In that regard, make sure you always use a OEM or Mann oil filter as other brands have been problematic and can trip the go/no-go sensor.

[Cyrik]

I was bored so read your entire part one again
So how clogged with fram filter material are you expecting on your pickup ?
Thats what its looking like.
Im interested to know what you find when you get that pan dropped.


Sent from my iPhone using Audizine (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=87676)I'm just as curious as you are, I totally forgot about that lol.

It honestly wouldn't surprise me this is an issue considering those filters are made of cheap-ass cardboard.

Also a quick update: I ordered a new filter housing assembly as mine has warped, it's leaking from the same spot again after gaskets we're replaced. Cutting my losses and replacing it. Should be here Monday so I'm going to try to do everything at once in a single day to get this car sorted out [emoji16] wish me luck.

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[Theiceman]

Yeah i did that and the water pump
A couple weeks ago. I got an audi assembly and it has been fine.


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[EvolutionArmory]

Yeah i did that and the water pump
A couple weeks ago. I got an audi assembly and it has been fine.


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I did mine last month and bought a new genuine housing from FCP. I got genuine so the quality should be good and I’m covered for life if it fails through FCP.

[Cyrik]

I know this is more theories, but I could be on to something here... are there any valves located in the filter assembly? If so, is it possible it's not working right/open causing a loss in pressure right before it hits the filter? I'll be honest I don't know much about the assembly itself; All I know is it holds the filter and routes oil to the block.

[Charles.waite]

OK MGG2009, appreciate the quick reply. The additional information is somewhat helpful. This is a B7 forum but I think the B8 engines are quite similar. The crankcase venting systems on forced induction engines are more complex than a NA engine. VW/Audi has gone out of its way to develop a system that keeps the crankcase under slight vacuum during boost conditions as well as under non-boost (idle and low RPM) conditions. Your dad may know this but briefly stated, under idle and low RPM the crankcase is vented directly through the PCV valve to the intake manifold (IM), and that line is easy to pick out. Incorporated in the PCV valve just prior to that line is a check valve which keeps gas flow from going from the IM into the crankcase under boost conditions.

Under boost conditions the PCV valve directs crankcase blow-by gases through a valve cover (VC) passageway directly to a pre-TC port on the front right side of the engine. At the top of the hard line going from the VC to the pre-TC port is another check valve that keeps gas flow from going from the pre-TC port into the PCV valve and on into the IM. There is a diaphragm valve in the PCV valve body that does the gas flow proportioning depending upon IM pressure. Any of these three valves can malfunction. Torn diaphragms was a common problem with early PCV valves, and may occasionally still occur. I'm told that sometimes they can whistle (or squeal as you say) at certain RPMs. Apparently, you have a new PCV valve coming so that should solve that potential problem. (Often VAG refers to this valve as a 'pressure control valve' or a 'pressure regulating valve'.) When you have the PCV valve off the VC make sure there is no leak in the VC passageway by seeing if it will hold pressure or a vacuum (Most forward opening in the PCV valve to the larger diameter port on the right front of the VC). This has been a constant problem for this engine.

Regarding the oil pressure, be sure to check oil pressure with a mechanical gauge at various RPMs prior to replacing parts such as the go/no-go oil pressure sensor to rule out other possible causes of low oil pressure (of which there are several). In that regard, make sure you always use a OEM or Mann oil filter as other brands have been problematic and can trip the go/no-go sensor.

A few years back my Q5 popped the oil pressure warning when I was driving it. I was close to home but I’m not one to tempt fate so I parked it and had it towed to the dealer and walked home. The dealer diagnosed the PCV as the source of the erroneous oil pressure warning. Replaced it under warranty and the light has never come back across maybe 20k miles and a timing chain job. So on the B8s there is some interplay between the oil pressure sensor and the PCV the can trigger an erroneous pressure warning. Worth replacing the PCV anyway as they’re prone to failure.

[Kevin C]

A few years back my Q5 popped the oil pressure warning when I was driving it. I was close to home but I’m not one to tempt fate so I parked it and had it towed to the dealer and walked home. The dealer diagnosed the PCV as the source of the erroneous oil pressure warning. Replaced it under warranty and the light has never come back across maybe 20k miles and a timing chain job. So on the B8s there is some interplay between the oil pressure sensor and the PCV the can trigger an erroneous pressure warning. Worth replacing the PCV anyway as they’re prone to failure.

A stuck PCV that creates a higher than normal crankcase vacuum could cause the oil pump to cavitate. Cavitation will reduce flow and pressure. A restricted pickup would make it worse, as would oil with a low vapor point from fuel contamination.

[Brillo]

A stuck PCV that creates a higher than normal crankcase vacuum could cause the oil pump to cavitate. Cavitation will reduce flow and pressure. A restricted pickup would make it worse, as would oil with a low vapor point from fuel contamination.

Thanks Kevin. I've heard this theory before and it certainly makes some sense. I guess one way to check it (the theory that is) is to replace the PCV valve as MGG is doing (and Charles did on his Q5). I hope he reports back. It could also explain why some folks only see the warning after they're at operating temp where the oil has a higher vapor pressure. Of the three valves in the PCV system this would relate only to a diaphragm valve malfunction.

[MGG2009]

I've replaced the PCV valve now but haven't tested it yet since my water hose connector piece needs to be replaced (I knew I had a small leak and upon further inspection it was the connector so I decided to replace it before I start my Audi), its off now and I will be going to the Audi dealership later this day to pick up a new one, after I install it then I'll test to see whether the PCV valve helps out, if not I'll go ahead and move on to the Oil pressure sensor/switch... I was checking the oil pressure switch and found that it's "loose" (the switch I have is brown and 1 pin) as I was inspecting it I found that it didn't click in to place (I tried and still wouldn't clip, it clipped once then wouldn't after that) anyway it'll stay on but it feels loose and is easy to slide off, I may just go ahead and replace it

[MGG2009]

After replacing the PCV valve and the oil pressure sensor/switch I cleared the codes and went on a 4hr road trip... they didn't come back on! Problem fixed! Car runs smoother too and picks up faster!

[EvolutionArmory]

After replacing the PCV valve and the oil pressure sensor/switch I cleared the codes and went on a 4hr road trip... they didn't come back on! Problem fixed! Car runs smoother too and picks up faster!

You should still verify the repair with an oil pressure test. As recent threads have shown us, some people will think their issue is fixed only to find out that the car still had low oil pressure all along. Better, but just better enough to not trip the warning.

[Charles.waite]

You should still verify the repair with an oil pressure test. As recent threads have shown us, some people will think their issue is fixed only to find out that the car still had low oil pressure all along. Better, but just better enough to not trip the warning.

Gotta agree here. Oil pressure is NOT something to F with on these cars (any car really).

[Cyrik]

It's Monday. Finally got the pan dropped.

First I wanna say I envy those of you who don't have access to a lift for this job; Took a solid 6 hours from start to finish for me, ended up just dropping the sub frame to get the damn pan off since just lowering it wasn't enough, ugh. Balance shafts had no wiggle, felt solid. Forgot to take a photo of the pump my bad 😂

Second, I don't think any of us saw this one coming:

https://i.imgur.com/310zolE.jpg

These metal fragments were all over the oil pan, and found a big chunk smack-dab in the middle of my pickup screen! This definitely explains the random warnings.

I then spent the next 20 minutes spraying out the pan with tons and tons of brake clean, the whole inside of the pan was mucked-up. I have no idea where these shards/fragments came from, they're not magnetic, they're soft like tin or aluminum. Went back in dry and put everything back together (ugh, Alldata is such a PITA trying to find torque specs for this car lol) On first start-up, I noticed immediately the idle was smoother, not sure if this is normal. Checked everything over for 20 minutes and a test drive and drove all the way home with no issues.

At this point, my situation goes in 4 ways:

1. My engine is McToasty and those fragments are from the crankshaft bearings and I'm just unlucky.
2. The previous tech didn't clean out the oil pan well enough after the cam follower failure and I dodged a bullet.
3. This is my own doing and I've ruined the car by driving with the issue present for as long as it was. Should've dropped the pan in the first place.
4. I'm not sure but don't some Fram filters have metal rims around the center.........?

[Cyrik]

Also one more thing, since the pan was dry is it normal to put in a full 5 quarts? I usually put in 4.5 for oil changes and it didn't seem like there was that much oil in the pan.

[Charles.waite]

Hmm bearing coatings can be non-magnetic. Given the shape and length of those, that would be my guess. The jury is out on whether those are a result of your oil pressure issue, the cause of your oil pressure issue (clogging the pickup), or a little of both.

I'd have pulled a rod cap and/or a main cap to see how it looked given how many shavings you found.


Also one more thing, since the pan was dry is it normal to put in a full 5 quarts? I usually put in 4.5 for oil changes and it didn't seem like there was that much oil in the pan.

Yea that seems normal.

[Cyrik]

After replacing the PCV valve and the oil pressure sensor/switch I cleared the codes and went on a 4hr road trip... they didn't come back on! Problem fixed! Car runs smoother too and picks up faster!

Glad you got it fixed! But like others on here have said, I would definitely verify with a pressure test. Don't play with fire.

[Cyrik]

Hmm bearing coatings can be non-magnetic. Given the shape and length of those, that would be my guess. The jury is out on whether those are a result of your oil pressure issue, the cause of your oil pressure issue (clogging the pickup), or a little of both.

I'd have pulled a rod cap and/or a main cap to see how it looked given how many shavings you found.

Well, shit. Didn't even think about that....

[Theiceman]

ok when you say non magnetic what do you mean ? do you really mean non ferrous so a magnet would not pick them up ? if so they have nothing to do with the cam follower as the cam follower is ferrous and a magnet would have picked them up.
also when you said " big piece right smack in the middle " i didnt even see a big piece ... Do you have any pic of what it looked like ? i would have thought oil would go around no problem.
a pic would have been good.
i would say this is likely bearing material. If that is the case this could be causing the low oil pressure , not the pieces in the pickup, so i would definitely get a mechanical gage on that.

if it is still low your bearings are likely toast.

[Charles.waite]

I just read some DSM forum post about bearing coating material is often nonferrous even though the bearing core is ferrous.

I could be wrong, but then again our bearing are pretty standard bearings so I don’t see why that info wouldn’t apply.

You might be okay though, I would run 1000 miles and pull the pan again and check for more flakes and pull a bearing cap to check the bearing state.

[Brillo]

I analyzed the material of the cam follower a number of years ago. Theiceman is correct in that the base material is a ferrous (magnetic) alloy. It's a German tool steel similar to our AISI D2 tools steel with an extremely hard tungsten carbide (ceramic) coating on the bearing surface, the dark material that eventually wears away just leaving the substrate material to act as the bearing. With regard to Charles comment, typical rod and crank bearings are a composite consisting of a steel (magnetic) base backing with a thin (less than 0.010 inch) layer of a number of different softer bearing surfaces. They used to be babbitt lead alloy (and occasionally still are) but modern bearings typically use more bronze base coating with an overlayment coating of tin with antimony additions as a hardener. These bearing surfaces do not peal off a bearing. They are too soft and thin to remain intact as a shaving. My guess is that they are an aluminum alloy. Clean the oil off of one of them and toss it into some toilet cleaner or other caustic (oven cleaner) for a day. If it disappears, it's likely an aluminum alloy.

[Cyrik]

ok when you say non magnetic what do you mean ? do you really mean non ferrous so a magnet would not pick them up ? if so they have nothing to do with the cam follower as the cam follower is ferrous and a magnet would have picked them up.
also when you said " big piece right smack in the middle " i didnt even see a big piece ... Do you have any pic of what it looked like ? i would have thought oil would go around no problem.
a pic would have been good.
i would say this is likely bearing material. If that is the case this could be causing the low oil pressure , not the pieces in the pickup, so i would definitely get a mechanical gauge on that.

if it is still low your bearings are likely toast.

Only time will tell at this point whether or not my engine is toast without further investigation. Also, those pieces are a bit bigger than you think in comparison with the size of the pickup tube. Pic above has a 16mm socket next to the flakes, use that as a reference.

And yes, a magnet would not pick them up.

[Cyrik]

I analyzed the material of the cam follower a number of years ago. Theiceman is correct in that the base material is a ferrous (magnetic) alloy. It's a German tool steel similar to our AISI D2 tools steel with an extremely hard tungsten carbide (ceramic) coating on the bearing surface, the dark material that eventually wears away just leaving the substrate material to act as the bearing. With regard to Charles comment, typical rod and crank bearings are a composite consisting of a steel (magnetic) base backing with a thin (less than 0.010 inch) layer of a number of different softer bearing surfaces. They used to be babbitt lead alloy (and occasionally still are) but modern bearings typically use more bronze base coating with an overlayment coating of tin with antimony additions as a hardener. These bearing surfaces do not peal off a bearing. They are too soft and thin to remain intact as a shaving. My guess is that they are an aluminum alloy. Clean the oil off of one of them and toss it into some toilet cleaner or other caustic (oven cleaner) for a day. If it disappears, it's likely an aluminum alloy.

This is fantastic information, thank you Brillo! I kept a few of the larger pieces in my cam follower container and I'll try this when I get home.

So from my understanding, if it is indeed bearing coating that I found in the pan, it's not ideal but not necessary? Best case scenario will my car be ok for months? Years?

[Brillo]

This is fantastic information, thank you Brillo! I kept a few of the larger pieces in my cam follower container and I'll try this when I get home.

So from my understanding, if it is indeed bearing coating that I found in the pan, it's not ideal but not necessary? Best case scenario will my car be ok for months? Years?

I'm not saying that you don't have anything to worry about. I can't tell you where the metal bits are coming from but they are likely not from the crank mains or rod journals. Those spaces are tight so big chunks just can't get out, and besides you said they were non magnetic (according to your post). Same with the CF. The pieces may be aluminum alloy which narrows the source(s) somewhat. I'm assuming that you did not purchase the car new and therefore may not now the complete maintenance/repair history.

The cam cradles are aluminum as is the timing chain housing which the HPFP is mounted to, and therefore the CF rides in an aluminum bearing of the timing chain housing. It's conceivable to me that a previouslly destroyed CF and the shrapnel from it could have chuncked out the aluminum housing in the region of the CF bearing. When repaired they may have replaced the housing and CF but neglected to properly clean out the debris which collected in the sump. This is a guess. Besides the cam cradle (and cam bearings), I believe that the balance shaft housing is also aluminum which may have experienced a catastrophic failure. It would be hard to believe this scenarion though cos what kind of moron would not have cleaned the pan when making repairs to the oil pump/balance shaft housing. So I really think the source is the top end. Maybe others can chime in with other potential sources of aluminum debris.

[Bdelauder1987]

Can be a few things, pickup tube clogged at the screen, oil pump *less likely* cause they either fail or dont. No in between.

Cam timing chain tensioner runs on oil pressure , when it starts going bad itll cause this too. Id say pickup tube most likely, if not that itll be that tensioner. Which also gives you the opportu ity to check the cam follower and replace your timing components. Dependong kn milage, may as well get it done.

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[Theiceman]

so did you hang a mechanical OPG ? where are we at with this ?

[Cyrik]

Dissolved one of the metal shards in toilet cleaner- popped it in last night and now its almost completely gone. It's aluminium.

[Charles.waite]

My best guess is they're from the head, but I can't think of where you could get large shards like that scraping off relatively cleanly. Maybe the timing chain housing? I can't recall but have you inspected that? Debris that got stuck in the chain and scraped material off the cast aluminum housing maybe?

The other thing to consider is that its old debris and leftover from a sloppy fix previously. I'm sortof on the fence about this advice, but maybe just run it for 1000 miles and drop the pan again to see if there is any new debris?

[Theiceman]

that thing is a pain in the as to drop if you dont have a lift , wouldn't want to do it often .
I think we all agree it is from some type of catastrophic failure at one point or another, now that we know its aluminum i can think only the timing cover would show that type of hostile environment and survive, like a broken adjuster carving up the inside of the cover. . What we are not clear on is that is it causing today's low oil pressure issue. The only way to know is with a gage.

[Charles.waite]

Well didn’t he say there wasn’t low pressure (or at least low pressure warnings) since he cleared the pickup and cleaned out the oil pan?

And yea dropping the pan definitely sucks. Was just tossing it out there in case the OP wants to double check later on. Parts can be expensive, DIY labor is free (even if the job sucks)

[Theiceman]

Yes Charles he did say that ,, how many times have guys thought the problem was " fixed" because the idiot light went off. ! too many to count i think . But you are right labour is free.... but with my luck i would need to do it February ...

[Charles.waite]

Yes Charles he did say that ,, how many times have guys thought the problem was " fixed" because the idiot light went off. ! too many to count i think . But you are right labour is free.... but with my luck i would need to do it February ...

True.

Verifying pressure on a gauge is the easiest way to verify that problem.

[Cyrik]

Soooo as a follow-up, since dropping the pan I haven't had any pressure issues that I can tell, I've driven almost 100 miles in the last 2 days... Tried replicating the problem many many times with no LOP warning :)

As a little PSA to anyone else doing this job I HIGHLY recommend you get new subframe bolts; The bolts are torque to yield and can only be used once as they stretch when you torque them down for the first time. I made the stupid mistake of re-using them and after the pan drop I took it for a test drive- and I could hear the subframe shifting about around corners and braking lmao. Just replaced them and no more noise. Everything feels solid, also a great opportunity to re-align your subframe too, ESPECIALLY if you have a lift as this makes it 10x quicker and easier for re-alignment.

Here's the part numbers, you'll need 4 of each if you dropped the pan completely for this job: N90956803; N90663002
Longer bolts are 81 ftlbs (110 nm) + 1/4 turn, and shorter bolts are 65 ftlbs iirc.


I have a friend in the shop with an oil pressure gauge and I'll see about hooking it up and doing a quick pressure test :) Will post results by this weekend.

Also Charles, as much as I wanna see if there's more flakes in the pan I really don't want to get back in there unless I absolutely have to, I might just sell the car at that point, lets hope that day doesn't come for at least a couple more years.

[EvolutionArmory]

I’m looking forward to your gauge readings. Hopefully you’re in spec now because nothing is fixed until it performs as designed. Until then it’s just less broken. 😀

[Theiceman]

I’m looking forward to your gauge readings. Hopefully you’re in spec now because nothing is fixed until it performs as designed. Until then it’s just less broken. 😀

i agree .. we almost need a sticky telling exactly what the spec pressures are at what RPM a i always have a hard time finding that and people wrongly assume because the light inst on that it is in spec.

[EvolutionArmory]

I believe acceptable spec should be between 40 and 60 PSI at 2K. Somewhere in the low 20’s for idle. Some people say idle spec should be 1 bar (14.7 psi) so maybe mid to high teens at idle is acceptable, 20 could be brand new oil pump readings maybe?

All specs should be warm.

[Theiceman]

I believe acceptable spec should be between 40 and 60 PSI at 2K. Somewhere in the low 20’s for idle. Some people say idle spec should be 1 bar (14.7 psi) so maybe mid to high teens at idle is acceptable, 20 could be brand new oil pump readings maybe?

All specs should be warm.You sound like Jeremy Clarkson introducing the stig.....

Some say .....
[emoji2]

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[Cyrik]

I believe acceptable spec should be between 40 and 60 PSI at 2K. Somewhere in the low 20’s for idle. Some people say idle spec should be 1 bar (14.7 psi) so maybe mid to high teens at idle is acceptable, 20 could be brand new oil pump readings maybe?

All specs should be warm.

Correct about specs being warm, pulled the specs from Alldata just now and spec at 2000 RPM is between 2.7 and 4.5 Bar at 80*C.

Correct pressure at idle should be around 1-1.2 Bar, maybe as much as 1.4 at idle from my personal findings. If its any lower than that you got issues.

Vouch for making a sticky on this.

[EvolutionArmory]

So anywhere from 14-20 PSI is a good place to be at idle it seems. Lower than 14 should be a concern.

[Cyrik]

So anywhere from 14-20 PSI is a good place to be at idle it seems. Lower than 14 should be a concern.

Correct, this also explains why there's no LOP warning at idle since most of the time the idle is already below 20psi, iirc you said in another thread the switch triggers at 20 psi?

[EvolutionArmory]

Correct, this also explains why there's no LOP warning at idle since most of the time the idle is already below 20psi, iirc you said in another thread the switch triggers at 20 psi?

I don’t think I actually said 20 was the LOP warning cut off. I think I said something like IF it triggers at 20 and you have 21, you still don’t have good oil pressure, just no light. I think I only used that as a possible example. Or something like that. There’s so many oil threads lately it’s hard to keep track of what I said 🤣🤣

[Cyrik]

I don’t think I actually said 20 was the LOP warning cut off. I think I said something like IF it triggers at 20 and you have 21, you still don’t have good oil pressure, just no light. I think I only used that as a possible example. Or something like that. There’s so many oil threads lately it’s hard to keep track of what I said 🤣🤣

Fair enough lmao, wish we knew more about how this switch works lol.

I swear things would be so much easier with this car if Audi had just built a pressure gauge into the dash when they designed them [facepalm]

[EvolutionArmory]

Right? They can make a friggin GPS dashboard on new cars but can’t put oil pressure or boost reading in a 05-08 car 🤣

It wouldn’t even need to be a gauge. Just a reading on the cluster.

[Brillo]

Fair enough lmao, wish we knew more about how this switch works lol.

I swear things would be so much easier with this car if Audi had just built a pressure gauge into the dash when they designed them [facepalm]

We don't need no stinkin oil pressure gauge. "Vee are German engine dezigners. Vee know vut the hell vee are doing. Vut could possibly go wrong?"

[Theiceman]

More like if we gave it to you it would lead to more warranty claims and cost us money

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[Cyrik]

In Audi's defense they probably didn't know these things would happen to these engines at higher mileage. On the contrary, you know the "lifetime fluid" German manufacturers rage about? Was talking to one of my BMW buddies the other day they low-key expect their cars to last 100k and that's it 🤣🤣🤣

[EvolutionArmory]

Or “lifetime” fluid applies to how long the original owner owns it and many people ditch a perfectly good car after 100,000 miles. 😀

[Charles.waite]

They don’t even have dipsticks on the b8+ cars. I had to order one for my wife’s Q5. There is a level readout in the MMI but a dipstick is cheap and easy, why get rid of it?!

[Theiceman]

They don’t even have dipsticks on the b8+ cars. I had to order one for my wife’s Q5. There is a level readout in the MMI but a dipstick is cheap and easy, why get rid of it?!

because its 2$ times 1,000,000 cars that use that engine ?

[Theiceman]

So recapping this thread !! Guess you needed those 8 bolts a gasket for the oil pan a new sensor plus oil and filter, anything else ? Any special tools?
I'm thinking of dropping my pan to check this all out

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[Cyrik]

So recapping this thread !! Guess you needed those 8 bolts a gasket for the oil pan a new sensor plus oil and filter, anything else ? Any special tools?
I'm thinking of dropping my pan to check this all out

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No special tools other than a creative way to hold your engine up since you're separating motor mounts. The key is to get as much room as possible. Hoisting the engine up a couple inches you might be lucky enough to not have to take out the control arm bolts holding the rest of the subframe to the suspension. If you go this route remember to get an alignment afterward lol... Also, make sure to do the subframe alignment there's a DIY somewhere on here.

For the rest of the job you just need various 3/8 and 1/4 in. metric sockets, hex bolt set, breaker bar/impact gun, extensions of various sizes, your trusty torque wrench, and of course to make things quicker, power tools to get that pan off. For putting the oil pan back on you need to use silicone glue, there's no gasket. I used Hondabond and no leaks so far.

[Cyrik]

https://i.imgur.com/mRwPnAR.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/fZfozV8.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/tb8cWBj.jpg

Idle, 2k, and 5k for the lolz.

Whether there's damage or not, my engine is still within spec. I'll do checks every now and then, but honestly I'm just gonna run with it. Case closed problem solved.

[Charles.waite]

That seems on the low side, but at this point, #yolo.

[VSMotorsports]

No special tools other than a creative way to hold your engine up since you're separating motor mounts. The key is to get as much room as possible. Hoisting the engine up a couple inches you might be lucky enough to not have to take out the control arm bolts holding the rest of the subframe to the suspension. If you go this route remember to get an alignment afterward lol... Also, make sure to do the subframe alignment there's a DIY somewhere on here.

For the rest of the job you just need various 3/8 and 1/4 in. metric sockets, hex bolt set, breaker bar/impact gun, extensions of various sizes, your trusty torque wrench, and of course to make things quicker, power tools to get that pan off. For putting the oil pan back on you need to use silicone glue, there's no gasket. I used Hondabond and no leaks so far.

Here’s how i did mine a few weeks ago when I replaced my oil pump
119290

Used the engine hoist to lift the motor slightly then removed the front spring bolts and then the all the front subframe bolts gained a good foot maybe a little more

[Cyrik]

Here’s how i did mine a few weeks ago when I replaced my oil pump
119290

Used the engine hoist to lift the motor slightly then removed the front spring bolts and then the all the front subframe bolts gained a good foot maybe a little moreDamn dude that's nice! I was using a lift so an engine hoist wasn't possible for me, used a crossbar with a chain on both engine hooks on top and a transmission pole for underneath.

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[VSMotorsports]

Damn dude that's nice! I was using a lift so an engine hoist wasn't possible for me, used a crossbar with a chain on both engine hooks on top and a transmission pole for underneath.

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The lift I used first lock in was at 2ft which made I possible to use the engine hoist and still have it low enough to work off a creeper with plenty of room


Sent from my iPhone

[Cyrik]

The lift I used first lock in was at 2ft which made I possible to use the engine hoist and still have it low enough to work off a creeper with plenty of room


Sent from my iPhoneI wanted to stand underneath the car so I went all the way up to the top lock lol. Either way works perfectly fine, just comes down to preference and what equipment you have available to you.

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[VSMotorsports]

I wanted to stand underneath the car so I went all the way up to the top lock lol. Either way works perfectly fine, just comes down to preference and what equipment you have available to you.

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Agree, Im lucky enough to have access to a lift but Believe me I wish I had a crossbar would of prevented me from hitting my head on the damn legs of the hoist all the time lol


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[Cyrik]

Thread revival here.

THE LOP WARNING IS BACK. ONCE AGAIN.

Drove 500 miles with no issues, on my lunch break today I got YET ANOTHER LOP warning!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

After work I hooked up my pressure gauge to my car, and my car's pressure was lower than last time. Pressure is sitting around 10psi at idle, and only 2.2 Bar at 2k rpm.

Something to note is that any rpm higher than 2k is within spec... Tested 3k, 4k, and 5k all on a test drive with the gauge on my windshield. Got over 4.5 Bar on a hard pull with the car warmed up, so at least the top end isn't an issue.


I have 2 theories of why the hell this is STILL happening:

1. More metal flakes/shavings are floating around my oil pan blocking the pickup tube, either those pieces have just been created off a bearing or I've had other pieces floating around my engine prior to pulling the pan. This is unlikely though, as I'm certain I got all the flakes out.

2. My Oil filter housing assembly leak has gotten worse (it really has to an extent) and/or one of the spring valves inside the assembly is broken/worn out and replacing the assembly will solve the problem.

The new assembly is sitting right next to me at home, ready to be dropped in. I have replaced just about EVERYTHING before the pressure sender, it's the last thing I can think of. Everyone PLEASE wish me luck, this is getting so incredibly frustrating that if this fix doesn't solve the problem once and for all I'm selling the car. End of story.

[Theiceman]

Just because there are so many threads I would like to clarify you checked balance shzfts for play right?
Someone here thought it was clogged pickup and did not even check balance shafts can't remember who

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[Cyrik]

Just because there are so many threads I would like to clarify you checked balance shzfts for play right?
Someone here thought it was clogged pickup and did not even check balance shafts can't remember who

Sent from my SM-G973W using Audizine mobile app (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=87676)I remember that post too... Balance shafts were intact when I pulled the pan. Zero play.

I kept the gauge hooked up overnight, drove to work just now and everything seemed normal until I got to operating temperature. Idle is just below 10psi and 2k rpm under 30.

Again I'm assuming the housing assembly itself is the issue but if it isn't then this car is done. I refuse to drive a car with inadequate oil pressure.

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[EvolutionArmory]

At operating temp your oil is thinner. It’s no surprise your oil pressure was higher if you just started the car, let idle come to normal after cold start and hooked up the gauge and checked. You gotta drive the car a couple miles before you check. That’s the real number.

That’s why the specs are at warm idle and at warm rpm.

[EvolutionArmory]

I doubt your oil filter housing will cure your oil pressure issue as it’s most likely caused by the pressure relief valve in the pump since you said you have no balance shaft play. Here’s to wishful thinking and it does fix it and now that I’ve said this it will probably cure your oil pressure problem entirely. 🤣

Fingers crossed that me being wrong gives you a working car!!!

[Cyrik]

I doubt your oil filter housing will cure your oil pressure issue as it’s most likely caused by the pressure relief valve in the pump since you said you have no balance shaft play. Here’s to wishful thinking and it does fix it and now that I’ve said this it will probably cure your oil pressure problem entirely. 🤣

Fingers crossed that me being wrong gives you a working car!!!

I have a backup plan if this fails. I never cancelled my extended warranty plan with a third party company when I bought the car, if I can somehow prove to Audi that my car is in need of a new pump, bearings, or whatever the actual problem is, I might just barely scrape out of this hole I've dug myself into. If that fails, bye bye Audi.

In fact, I wouldn't mind a catastrophic failure if it means I get a new engine through this extended warranty...

[Cyrik]

Also as a quick overview... Oil travels from the pan, through pick-up tube, to oil pump, through balance shafts, through crankcase, to oil filter, to filter assembly then to oil pressure switch, correct? Or am I missing something in that chain lol.

[Brillo]

Also as a quick overview... Oil travels from the pan, through pick-up tube, to oil pump, through balance shafts, through crankcase, to oil filter, to filter assembly then to oil pressure switch, correct? Or am I missing something in that chain lol.

Cyrik Your flow is pretty close but let me amplify slightly. The oil to the balance shaft bearings goes back to the sump. With proper bearing clearance very little is bled off here unless there has been significant degradation of the bearings (which presents with the notorius shaft wobble). Most of the oil now travels up through the block to the oil filter housing where it is directed through the filter and past the oil pressure switch. The filter bypass valve is in parallel with the filter, so if it's clogged the bypass valve is activated so not to starve the rest of the oil galleries. The galleries consist of the main and c-rod bearings, cylinder wall spray, cam shafts, lifters, HPFP cam follower, cam shaft adjuster and chain (and sprockets), and turbo bearings. More detailed than your list but I think it's what you meant.

[Charles.waite]

Yea, the important difference being, the Filter is located before the oil is distributed to the engine. So the oil pressure is measured almost directly after the pump.

If you're getting low pressure and your pickup tube is clear, I really believe its a failure in the pump... I know thats not what you want to hear. They're $1600USD new. You could find a decent looking one on ebay for $400 or so I believe.

[Cyrik]

Yea, the important difference being, the Filter is located before the oil is distributed to the engine. So the oil pressure is measured almost directly after the pump.

If you're getting low pressure and your pickup tube is clear, I really believe its a failure in the pump... I know thats not what you want to hear. They're $1600USD new. You could find a decent looking one on ebay for $400 or so I believe.You're right, it isn't what I want to hear especially since it was replaced already. But I appreciate the input from all you guys who are trying to help me out on this one- so a thank you is in order :)

Since I got nothing to lose at this point I'm gonna chuck in the new assembly anyway. Hell I'll do it for the mechanical experience.

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[Charles.waite]

Want to fly out to Seattle and replace my housing instead?! It’s leaking like a sieve!

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190511/d6b364a7758276f5abeced05173e9165.jpg

[Cyrik]

Want to fly out to Seattle and replace my housing instead?! It’s leaking like a sieve!

Helllllll no 😂 mine looks just as bad if not worse considering the entire driver-side of my subframe is covered in oil 🤣🤣🤣


On another note, think I'll be able to prove to Audi that my oil pressures bad and have them rebuild the engine under my extended warranty if I show up with the gauge still on my windshield? 😂 This car sucks so much it feels good to just laugh about it

[Theiceman]

Helllllll no [emoji23] mine looks just as bad if not worse considering the entire driver-side of my subframe is covered in oil 🤣🤣🤣


On another note, think I'll be able to prove to Audi that my oil pressures bad and have them rebuild the engine under my extended warranty if I show up with the gauge still on my windshield? [emoji23] This car sucks so much it feels good to just laugh about it
If you have dropped subframe to check/change pump how had is it go get to rod bearings ? On my b8 upper oil pan was easy once the pump was off.
I would think if you have gone this far to check oil pressure would not a set of rod bearings and rod bolts be in order ?

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[Theiceman]

I wanted to check mine any tricks on getting to the sensor ?

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[Cyrik]

If you have dropped subframe to check/change pump how had is it go get to rod bearings ? On my b8 upper oil pan was easy once the pump was off.
I would think if you have gone this far to check oil pressure would not a set of rod bearings and rod bolts be in order ?

Sent from my SM-G973W using Audizine mobile app (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=87676)I didn't know at the time, it was an oversight. I'm also not taking the pan off again I'm it just isn't worth it to go through that hell again...

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[Theiceman]

I'm not saying it's even possible I was just wondering. You could get into ims issues then
I agree with you once into the pan is even too much

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[Cyrik]

Soooooo quick update, replaced my filter housing assembly today cause why not... And no leaks! :) Actually quite an easy job to do... only would've taken me about 2 hours if I hadn't spilled oil and coolant on my driveway and I was able to get that damn pcv hose off the top of the assembly quicker 🤣 Didn't have to drain oil or coolant for the repair, Just topped off about a quart of oil and coolant after I was done and that was it.

However my pressure is still bad, at one point during the test drive my idle pressure was as low as 8 psi... NOT GOOD. I've done tons of research on the matter lately and I've learned that rule of thumb is AT LEAST 10psi at idle, regardless of the car in question. I also believe that my car is a ticking time bomb and the reason that that my engine hasn't gone yet is because the upper range of oil pressure is still within spec. Also had a big talk with a guy at advance auto parts earlier today (I needed a Mann filter), he said he's been in this industry for ~30 years and said its definitely one of the sets of bearings in the block if you have metal shavings as big as mine in the oil pan.

Off to Audi it is. Can pretty much promise that the pressure test they did about 2 months ago on my car was done without the car being at temperature, so an inaccurate test. Literally gonna roll in with the gauge on my windshield 😂 wish me luck guys.

Edit: Pretty sure my pressure test initially that I posted above was inaccurate as well, I don't think I let the car warm up for long enough. It takes a while for the pressure to drop all the way down to 8 psi.

[Theiceman]

Soooooo quick update, replaced my filter housing assembly today cause why not... And no leaks! :) Actually quite an easy job to do... only would've taken me about 2 hours if I hadn't spilled oil and coolant on my driveway and I was able to get that damn pcv hose off the top of the assembly quicker 🤣 Didn't have to drain oil or coolant for the repair, Just topped off about a quart of oil and coolant after I was done and that was it.

However my pressure is still bad, at one point during the test drive my idle pressure was as low as 8 psi... NOT GOOD. I've done tons of research on the matter lately and I've learned that rule of thumb is AT LEAST 10psi at idle, regardless of the car in question. I also believe that my car is a ticking time bomb and the reason that that my engine hasn't gone yet is because the upper range of oil pressure is still within spec. Also had a big talk with a guy at advance auto parts earlier today (I needed a Mann filter), he said he's been in this industry for ~30 years and said its definitely one of the sets of bearings in the block if you have metal shavings as big as mine in the oil pan.

Off to Audi it is. Can pretty much promise that the pressure test they did about 2 months ago on my car was done without the car being at temperature, so an inaccurate test. Literally gonna roll in with the gauge on my windshield [emoji23] wish me luck guys.

Edit: Pretty sure my pressure test initially that I posted above was inaccurate as well, I don't think I let the car warm up for long enough. It takes a while for the pressure to drop all the way down to 8 psi.I went to put my pressure gauge on and can't even see the sensor in there !! Are there any tricks to it or are you working blind ?

Sent from my SM-G973W using Audizine mobile app (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=87676)

[Cyrik]

I went to put my pressure gauge on and can't even see the sensor in there !! Are there any tricks to it or are you working blind ?

Sent from my SM-G973W using Audizine mobile app (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=87676)I attached my hose blind, you just have to feel around for the port and spend 15 mins attaching the tube [emoji23]

Sent from my Pixel XL using Audizine mobile app (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=87676)

[AudiKilla]

Look at Phil's guide for the oil pressure sensor removal:
https://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/644554-DIY-Oil-pressure-Read-Out

[Theiceman]

Look at Phil's guide for the oil pressure sensor removal:
https://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/644554-DIY-Oil-pressure-Read-Out

great thread thanks .. that interface software is really spendy .... but it did get me thinking about T ing in a sender and putting a gauge inside the car though ... I think thats the method i will go , order the reloaction kit and get a sender and gauge of aliexpress. whole thing done for less than 65 bucks or so.

[Charles.waite]

I have this kit: https://www.ecstuning.com/b-new-south-performance-parts/20t-fsi-banjo-port/con017/

I believe it installs where the turbo oil feed is, but I’m waiting for my engine swap to install it.

I have a VEI dual digits gauge with boost and oil pressure ready to install into my Podi steering column pod.

[Brillo]

great thread thanks .. that interface software is really spendy .... but it did get me thinking about T ing in a sender and putting a gauge inside the car though ... I think thats the method i will go , order the reloaction kit and get a sender and gauge of aliexpress. whole thing done for less than 65 bucks or so.

I agree. I'm getting paranoid reading about all the problems relating to oil pressure, CF disintegration, balance shaft bearings, cam chain, cam chain tensioner, and variable cam chain adjuster.

[EvolutionArmory]

I agree. I'm getting paranoid reading about all the problems relating to oil pressure, CF disintegration, balance shaft bearings, cam chain, cam chain tensioner, and variable cam chain adjuster.

I’m at the point where I’m trying to decide if I should just buy a short block and build a motor with a brand new OEM oil pump that will last me another 200,000 miles or just get out of my B7 entirely and go B8 S4. To build the motor the way I want will probably cost me 5 grand. That’s built by me but installed at a shop pricing though. The body and frame of my car is in pretty good shape or else the decision would be a lot easier and I’d just go S4. Plus I’m already this far into my Avant.

[Brillo]

Anyone have any ideas whether this Tee adapter will work, space-wise and thread type? It looks right.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/vdo-240855?seid=srese1&cm_mmc=pla-google-_-shopping-_-srese1-_-vdo-gauges&gclid=CjwKCAjwq-TmBRBdEiwAaO1en4D5-YkhdgQ6vTqgKkd7nTgymZAhrDsMRZuUlpjVGT7OJGJxO-m5rxoCtPMQAvD_BwE

[Brillo]

I’m at the point where I’m trying to decide if I should just buy a short block and build a motor with a brand new OEM oil pump that will last me another 200,000 miles or just get out of my B7 entirely and go B8 S4. To build the motor the way I want will probably cost me 5 grand. That’s built by me but installed at a shop pricing though. The body and frame of my car is in pretty good shape or else the decision would be a lot easier and I’d just go S4. Plus I’m already this far into my Avant.

Yes, another good option(s)!
I've had my A4 since new (Oct. 2007) and have been religious about oil changes and other maintenance issue. In a way I would really like to see how many more miles I can squeeze out of the old girl. I've been running less than 10k miles a year.

[Cyrik]

Anyone have any ideas whether this Tee adapter will work, space-wise and thread type? It looks right.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/vdo-240855?seid=srese1&cm_mmc=pla-google-_-shopping-_-srese1-_-vdo-gauges&gclid=CjwKCAjwq-TmBRBdEiwAaO1en4D5-YkhdgQ6vTqgKkd7nTgymZAhrDsMRZuUlpjVGT7OJGJxO-m5rxoCtPMQAvD_BwE


Maybe, iirc the threading on our filter housing assemblies is 10x1.0mm. Find a fitting with the correct threads and I don't see why it wouldn't work.

[Cyrik]

I’m at the point where I’m trying to decide if I should just buy a short block and build a motor with a brand new OEM oil pump that will last me another 200,000 miles or just get out of my B7 entirely and go B8 S4. To build the motor the way I want will probably cost me 5 grand. That’s built by me but installed at a shop pricing though. The body and frame of my car is in pretty good shape or else the decision would be a lot easier and I’d just go S4. Plus I’m already this far into my Avant.

Ditching this car sounds like a great way to save yourself a lot of headaches.

However forged IE pistons and rods sounds schmexy to me. 400awhp would be easy.

[EvolutionArmory]

Ditching this car sounds like a great way to save yourself a lot of headaches.

However forged IE pistons and rods sounds schmexy to me. 400awhp would be easy.

I’d just do drop in rods, a light hone and OEM rings, a brand new OEM oil pump, OEM bearings and bolts. I have forged pistons already. And of course all the other little things that go with building a motor.

[Theiceman]

Anyone have any ideas whether this Tee adapter will work, space-wise and thread type? It looks right.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/vdo-240855?seid=srese1&cm_mmc=pla-google-_-shopping-_-srese1-_-vdo-gauges&gclid=CjwKCAjwq-TmBRBdEiwAaO1en4D5-YkhdgQ6vTqgKkd7nTgymZAhrDsMRZuUlpjVGT7OJGJxO-m5rxoCtPMQAvD_BwE

im thinking space wize will be an issue i think as there is no room to get a sender on bot parts of the T ...

but i did see something last night that interested me if the thread is right.... stay tuned..

[Theiceman]

Anyone have any ideas whether this Tee adapter will work, space-wise and thread type? It looks right.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/vdo-240855?seid=srese1&cm_mmc=pla-google-_-shopping-_-srese1-_-vdo-gauges&gclid=CjwKCAjwq-TmBRBdEiwAaO1en4D5-YkhdgQ6vTqgKkd7nTgymZAhrDsMRZuUlpjVGT7OJGJxO-m5rxoCtPMQAvD_BwE

if our cars are metric I am not sure how this would work . You could not fit on to any of them correct ? if as cyrik mentioned we are 1.0mm by 10mm i dont think npt is compatible.

[Brillo]

if our cars are metric I am not sure how this would work . You could not fit on to any of them correct ? if as cyrik mentioned we are 1.0mm by 10mm i dont think npt is compatible.

OK, thanks for the input!

[Theiceman]

OK, thanks for the input!

okay i have a bit of an update......

i got my sender off last night , not to bad once you move the coolant tank out of the way. it is definitely 10mm by 1mm fine pitch ... my buddy loaned me his pressure gauge and it is npt thread and only goes on about two turns, if you feel this STOP. you will damage your threads on both the fitting and the housing.. i actually used a metric nut i had to test.
today i am going to see if they have an NPT to 10mm adapter and i will report back. i am thinking of making my own relocation kit as getting stuff from the US for me is just a pain and expensive.
I may start a new thread as it may take some trickery as many senders for a gauge are NPT also . so if you re ordering a gauge and sender, double check this.

[Brillo]

okay i have a bit of an update......

i got my sender off last night , not to bad once you move the coolant tank out of the way. it is definitely 10mm by 1mm fine pitch ... my buddy loaned me his pressure gauge and it is npt thread and only goes on about two turns, if you feel this STOP. you will damage your threads on both the fitting and the housing.. i actually used a metric nut i had to test.
today i am going to see if they have an NPT to 10mm adapter and i will report back. i am thinking of making my own relocation kit as getting stuff from the US for me is just a pain and expensive.
I may start a new thread as it may take some trickery as many senders for a gauge are NPT also . so if you re ordering a gauge and sender, double check this.

Appreciate your effort Theiceman - partly because I'm travelling a lot right now and can't really do much, and partly cos I think there are a lot of other forum members who will benefit. In the meantime, I'll try to research what others might have done already. Brillo

[Brillo]

An adapter would be nice but a Tee with 10mm threads would be even better. I'm concerned about the space constraints.

[Theiceman]

An adapter would be nice but a Tee with 10mm threads would be even better. I'm concerned about the space constraints.

my thoughts exactly .. so need a rubber hose with a 10mm by 1mm at each end to relocate .. .. and i MAY have found one ...

[Brillo]

In terms of flexibility and eliminating the potential deleterious effects of engine vibration on oil pressure sending sensors, this remote mounting kit from ECSTuning makes some sense to me.

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-42-draft-designs-parts/vw-audi-oil-pressure-relocation-kit/8662771~42d/

[Theiceman]

that does make sense and is very reasonably priced.
looks like the hose has NPT fittings so they give you an adapter for the oil filter housing and one of the ports on the T is NPT.
I am going today to check on the hose i saw .. if that is 10mm by 1mm both ends then you just need the hose and T with all 10 mm fittings which should be easy to find locally .

[rongeur]

Bump for update if new pump resolved pressure issue.