Is this timing belt too loose?

[RocksForsSale]

Bottom is tight, top I’m questioning adjuster seems like too much slack. Changing it soon, is this don’t drive it too loose?

https://youtu.be/ClfUsubqtZ8

https://youtu.be/fiWDzP7rr2Y

Thanks


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[RocksForsSale]

4.2


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[4xaudi]

Something is wrong there.

[S/RConcepts]

I agree, something is pretty unhappy there. I'm thinking that the hydraulic tensioner may be frozen up. In any case, it's not a good idea to run it as is.

[RocksForsSale]

Ok, looks like I got lucky popping that cover off. My b5 s4 was recently all stuff replaced and the belt flexes but that felt too loose up and down there. The belt was replaced at 90,500 car has 168k. They did just the belt 60 bucks and 8 hours labor? I bought all the stuff to do it and tools, I was going to wait a couple thousand but looks like I’ll be into it asap. This is a Touareg 4.2 by the way.


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[RocksForsSale]

I recently took a 6 hour round trip lol. The good news is the bottom part of the belt around the sprocket is super tight. I wasn’t sure if the v8 was just slackier in that part. I know it’s the same part number for the belt but different rollers and tensioners.


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[RocksForsSale]

Are black oxide bolts in place of the water-pump bolts ok? I read that on some forum to use those. Looks like updated stock maybe black zinc coated? Aluminum block with steel in the water pump maybe why bolts won’t come out.


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[rollerton]

You should fire the engine up and then shut it down a few times and check the tension each time. I don't know why people don't mention it but there CAN BE seemingly more slack than you want BETWEEN the banks depending on the position of the cams when the engine shuts down. There's no tensioner between the cams and the bank 2 cam can end up resting in a position that allows a tiny bit more slack than you think is okay. That amount you're seeing can be perfectly normal. You can NOT judge the proper tension of the belt just by checking it between the cams unless you have the cam lock bar on and both cams are verified to be aligned.
You just cant.
I guarantee if you replace the belt and run the engine you'll find slack in the belt right there if you check enough. It's critical to have some allowance between the cams so the tensioners on each bank can advance cam timing independently.

[RocksForsSale]

You should fire the engine up and then shut it down a few times and check the tension each time. I don't know why people don't mention it but there CAN BE seemingly more slack than you want BETWEEN the banks depending on the position of the cams when the engine shuts down. There's no tensioner between the cams and the bank 2 cam can end up resting in a position that allows a tiny bit more slack than you think is okay. That amount you're seeing can be perfectly normal. You can NOT judge the proper tension of the belt just by checking it between the cams unless you have the cam lock bar on and both cams are verified to be aligned.
You just cant.
I guarantee if you replace the belt and run the engine you'll find slack in the belt right there if you check enough. It's critical to have some allowance between the cams so the tensioners on each bank can advance cam timing independently.

The bottom belt part that’s going around the bottom part of the sprocket was super tight, so you may be onto something. Just seems too lose to me though I’m not going to risk the 2k or so until it’s due since there’s a fat chance since they only changed the belt the rest of the tensioning stuff is starting to fail.


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[RocksForsSale]

Went ahead and ordered oem bolts for the waterpump unsure if the pitch I have is right someone said maybe weird 1.25 I have 1.00, also some older v8 water pump bolts were oddly triangular shaped on the shank?

I guess I’ll hit it with blue Loctite then.

Also ordered 8 oem crank pulley bolts, 2 things of SF, and some chlorine free brake clean. Hit 49.33 right on the nose for free fcp shipping.


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[AudiAddicted]

I agree with the other posters, give your crank a spin clockwise until the timing marks on the cams are lined up, then check. I felt the same looseness in one of my timing belts after doing a water pump, I figured I got a bad tensioner or the belt was defective, I tore it back apart, put in a new NTN tensioner and belt and it was exactly the same if the cams were in a certain position, as soon as I turned the crank the belt would tighten back up. Check the cam position first before tearing into it.

[AudiAddicted]

Also if you can look at the tensioner itself and where the rod comes out check to see if any oil is around the seal indicating a leak, if so, replace it ASAP.

[RocksForsSale]

Also if you can look at the tensioner itself and where the rod comes out check to see if any oil is around the seal indicating a leak, if so, replace it ASAP.

Not sure if I can see it without just the easy pop covers off. Glad to know this could just be normal. How were those water pump bolts coming out? Use any Loctite or antiseize on them?


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[RocksForsSale]

I don’t see any fluid leaking but I guess it’s just bleeding down.

I turned it by hand:

https://youtu.be/V5JoTfYTfqY

Instantly got stiff there so there ya go.

I turned it a few times and it stayed tensioned. However at TDC the wings didn’t appear to line up. Last timing belt someone did marks and didn’t pop the cams or use the lock bar I assume. No codes.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190410/247c0549d6f45eec9c06205c0668b29a.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190410/84241c3c963f8268ea16cc1848e22cfe.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190410/14890723c57ba6787edb3d8c74714785.jpg

It fits with finesse:

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190410/647e611e9b04722926004b0ac2845399.jpg

But from my prior experience that means the adjusters are stretched thin but within spec.

Washed and detail sprayed today. That Simonez stuff is tough to get the smudges out. More like a spray wax:

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190410/a9dfd50b7100e8e19663fcd27d4a8310.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190410/4b72722a50a6a5d28e651ac8c0da1ae6.jpg

Started up fine, a little clickity clank which I read there is a tsb that indicates that’s normal until the adjuster pumps up. I bought adjuster pads just in case they are a shit snow when I pop the valve covers.

Thanks for any input!

*If it bleeds down and belts a wet noodle tomorrow I’m not gonna drive it. I have black oxide bolts for the waterpump, but I went ahead and ordered revised oem oem bolts and oem crank pulley bolts and coolant. Not sure if the pitch is 1.25 or 1.00 for m6x20 or 25 whatever it is. Waiting for FCP before I dig in. This thing def is getting love. Did the front and rear diff fluid change w/ Lucas 75/90 and it really quieted her down.