View Full Version : ATW 2000 1.8t A4 Fan clutch bypass...?

02-14-2019, 07:05 PM
On the drive to school earlier this week, I had the bearing for the clutch fan pulley very suddenly seize-up with no noises or any indications of wear.
I guess because of my experience with older Chevy v8s I assumed that the pulley was also for the water pump, and that it had seized and bought a new one, but we wonít talk about that.

I have the front clip off and pulled the pulley off the bearing, which funny enough was able to spin regularly once I pulled the pulley off.

Anyway, my question is if I can just leave the fan clutch assembly out of the car and hook the smaller electric fan up to a constant power source for engine cooling. The radiator appears to be split into two halves: automatic transmission cooling and engine coolant cooling, is that the case? If so, Iíd imagine that wouldnít work.

If need be, Iíd sooner pickup a large electric fan from the junkyard as it would probably be 1/5 the cost of replacing the bracket or having the bearing replaced.

I should mention, the previous owners of the car seriously neglected it, and the fan clutch assembly and bracket has some missing fasteners (as does the entire rest of the car) and itís plausable to assume thatís why it went out.

Thanks for reading!

02-15-2019, 05:08 AM
Yes, it will also help the engine rev easier. Later on you could hook it up to a thermoswitch and source like engine coolant sensor and make it activate at like 75c. That way you get ultrafast heat up.

Ian Shire
02-15-2019, 06:15 AM
Yes, it will also help the engine rev easier. Later on you could hook it up to a thermoswitch and source like engine coolant sensor and make it activate at like 75c. That way you get ultrafast heat up.

I was actually thinking of doing an electric fan on my a4. I dont know too much about wiring, how would I go about doing a thermo switch? Is there a post on doing this already?

02-15-2019, 07:39 AM
Yes there is. Use the search function


But as I said temp switch is not absolutely needed but its better. Also you can get away with the stock serp belt as the tensioner will tighten it up just enough, but you really need a shorter serp belt like the post says.

A1 A2 German
02-15-2019, 11:22 AM
I did a write up, try searching my threads.

- Throw fan clutch and pulley away, use shorter serp belt.
- Buy 14" pancake fan, puller style, mount to rad support in place of were clutch fan sat into.
- Use this to control fans and AC fans: https://www.google.com/shopping/product/6403866202961428943?lsf=seller:126802034,store:149 70093176262536954&prds=oid:4954648869602680743&q=car+fan+switch&hl=en&ei=og9nXMmIIdWT0PEPr4yb4As (there's a few of these yet can find out the exact one I use if needed).

Under no circumstances just run 12volts to a fan with a switch under the dash, invest the $30 and let the fan switch do all the work.

02-17-2019, 09:17 AM
Not exactly the correct way to do it, but as a temporary measure to limp it to campus I wired the tranny-side fan to the headlight washer pump (previous owners did me the service of tapping something with the front bumper and removing that system). Amazingly, the car doesnít over-heat, didnít blow a fuse, and operates normally. I completely removed the fan clutch and pulley used a shorter belt (47 inches I think, equivalent to the Bando 5PK1195) and it works great.

Will definitely get an additional fan probably with a temp switch before the heat of spring comes in.

02-17-2019, 04:00 PM
You should not overheat without the engine driven fan, but you will loose a/c when the car stops at lights, in traffic and when temps get hot (95+). Mine has been out for 3 years since the engine swap.

02-17-2019, 04:12 PM
I dont even have the electric AC fan in my car rn :D

02-20-2019, 06:56 PM
Sorry, I meant my electric fan has been out for 3 years since the swap. My son's V6 had a dead fan clutch and his was similar, never overheated, but weak a/c in traffic and stops.