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Afmedic
11-27-2018, 10:57 AM
My father in law recently gave us my wife's first car. It's a B5 A4 that died when she was driving it about 5 years ago. They parked it and let it sit and it hasn't moved since. Knowing very little about Audi (I mainly dabble with ford diesels) we took it in to give it a home. I figured worst case it was the timing and if it grenaded it would need a motor. He said that it turned over fine and would run on ether but wouldnt stay running. (Dont judge...I didnt spray it...)

I towed it home to Ky with my truck that also now needs a motor (stupid 6.4) so I figured it would be cheaper to get the audi running while I fix the truck. I tore the front end down and checked the timing and the belt looks almost new, and the timing was perfect. Apparently not the problem!

Now I'm kind of stuck chasing my tail. I have no idea what anything does on this car! There are wires everywhere and I haven't worked on a gas engine in years. I have to get a battery for it because the one it had was dead dead dead. Where to next? Fuel pump? Compression test? When I was checking the timing the motor turned over freely, wasnt locked up, and no noises. There was noticeable compression build up as it spun. Is there a freeware program like forscan that works with the Audi? I have a usb to obdii adapter that I use for my ford.

Fasterd
11-27-2018, 11:02 AM
Sell it and use it as a down payment, no offense but just after reading that I think this may not be for you (not with the goal you have in mind)

[drive]

AudiTechS4
11-27-2018, 11:10 AM
Pull the fuel line at the rail in the engine bay and crank is see if it has fuel
14mm and 17mm wrench

scaphan
11-27-2018, 11:14 AM
You refer to a diagnostic system. There is a great freeware system called vcds. You need a cable but the basic code scanner is free. I would scan for codes, drain the fuel (will be bad after 5 years) check you have spark, fuel and compression (you said you already checked the timing) and try and get it to fire. Check codes again and this should point you in the right direction.


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lunamarA4
11-27-2018, 11:14 AM
if you plan to keep it get the vag-tool from ross tech or see if anyone in your area is nice to allow u to use theirs for a day and pull the codes, then post any fault codes

also some places online will rent one for a week for a fee as a new one runs $350+
or look in the classifieds on here or VWvortex.com for a used one --they run around $250 used

without running codes it will be hard to just ask for help on the forums as it can be many things and this will save you time to directly address the issue[wrench]

Afmedic
11-27-2018, 11:16 AM
I will do that tonight and attempt to pull the codes on it as well.

Fasterd
11-27-2018, 11:17 AM
mark my words....in your position fucking with this car is the last thing you should do. But if youre dead set on it then refer to above comments

Afmedic
11-27-2018, 12:37 PM
mark my words....in your position fucking with this car is the last thing you should do. But if youre dead set on it then refer to above comments

What us your reasoning behind your stance?

Fasterd
11-27-2018, 12:44 PM
Because I've lived it.

You clearly need a car, as you just lost the truck. It sounds like you're looking for a car that with some minor work can be back on the road. You may fix the problem today, but these cars are constant work with niche knowledge and tools. There are so many nuances regarding VW that is night and day from conventional wisdom, and everything has to be perfect. Add in 20 years and the fact that it is a turbo motor 3 generations ago....need i say more?

Go look on your drive home how many 10+ year old cars are around you, now 20? then add all the other things I just said, plus the fact that parts are more expensive by default and you tell me if this is a cost effective way of solving your problem.

If you like the car or it has sentimental value, but it in the garage and come back to it when times are good.

Cheers,
Will

rockbeau25
11-27-2018, 12:51 PM
Sell it and use it as a down payment, no offense but just after reading that I think this may not be for you (not with the goal you have in mind)

[drive]

Dude, piss off. This is completely against the spirit of the forum. If OP wants to save a B5 (which everyone on this forum wants him to besides you), then let him. We're all here to support each other's projects, not tell them they should give up and buy something else.

OP, what everyone else said is sound advice. Start with replacing the battery obviously, it was smart to check timing right away too. Use a generic scanner for the time being if you're in a pinch, but definitely invest in a vag com if your intentions are resurrecting this car.

Fasterd
11-27-2018, 01:11 PM
Yeah OP, dump your money away.

You might as well buy a boat or a jaguar, this car should be looked at as a hobby and not reliable, cheap transport

Fasterd
11-27-2018, 01:17 PM
Dude, piss off. This is completely against the spirit of the forum. If OP wants to save a B5 (which everyone on this forum wants him to besides you), then let him. We're all here to support each other's projects, not tell them they should give up and buy something else.

OP, what everyone else said is sound advice. Start with replacing the battery obviously, it was smart to check timing right away too. Use a generic scanner for the time being if you're in a pinch, but definitely invest in a vag com if your intentions are resurrecting this car.

Listen dumb shit, if its sat for 5 years it needs tires, fluids, and a battery. So before OP has diagnosed the car (which who knows what else is wrong) he's got 1k into it, which could have fixed his truck. (you kids and your life of no responsibility) Above saving a b5 how about give the guy the reality that fixing this car up is a chase the tail exercise. (It doesn't sound like mommy and daddy will bail him out when shit goes south)

The guy by his own admission knows nothing about the fucking car, sounds like giving him FAQ links would have been a better start than fighting with me hmm?

PringlesInVic
11-27-2018, 01:25 PM
I agree that it is against the spirit of this forum to disway anybody from attempting a project. The OP obviously doesn't have any experience with these cars, but neither did any of us when we got our first B5. We learned from asking questions, and the help from other likeminded AZr's.

As mentioned above VCDS (Ross Tech's VAGCOM) will be your first step. I believe you can still download the free/lite version. You will need an OBDII to USB cable that meets the specs HERE (http://www.ross-tech.com/vcds-lite/download/index.php)

You're obviously mechanically inclined and willing to dig into it. I think you'll be fine. We do need more information though, year? trans? quattro? engine? You can add these to your signature as well for a quick reference.

Fasterd
11-27-2018, 01:27 PM
I agree that it is against the spirit of this forum to disway anybody from attempting a project. The OP obviously doesn't have any experience with these cars, but neither did any of us when we got our first B5. We learned from asking questions, and the help from other likeminded AZr's.

As mentioned above VCDS (Ross Tech's VAGCOM) will be your first step. I believe you can still download the free/lite version. You will need an OBDII to USB cable that meets the specs HERE (http://www.ross-tech.com/vcds-lite/download/index.php)

You're obviously mechanically inclined and willing to dig into it. I think you'll be fine. We do need more information though, year? trans? quattro? engine? You can add these to your signature as well for a quick reference.

Im not saying dude can't do it, Im saying in his situation of needing a car the truck will be much cheap over the first 5000 miles (or any for that matter)

Afmedic
11-27-2018, 01:49 PM
So much to answer! I'm at a stop light so I'll answer the most recent then I'll be back again...my truck will cost 6 to 10 thousand to fix, so 1k on the audi is peanuts at this point.

Afmedic
11-27-2018, 01:50 PM
The car is a 00 a4 1.8t auto trans. Not a quattro. Has a little over 100k on it.

Fasterd
11-27-2018, 01:50 PM
Well if you got it like that......

Get a battery in, turn it over and report them codes [race]

Afmedic
11-27-2018, 01:59 PM
Ok now I'm stuck by a damn train so I have a little more time.
I'm no idiot and I know when it isnt feasible to fix a car to pull the plug. If you cant offer me some hard evidence other than you dont think it's a good idea then I will kindly remind you that opinions are like ass holes...everyone has one and most of them stink...if you dont have some information like "this year was prone to cylinder wall scoring or piston cracking" then I'm not scared. Additionally, with something that could be as simple as a fuel pl ump relay or fuel pump (since I've already checked the timing) then I would question your mechanical integrity for suggesting to scrap it when there are so many more diagnostics that can be done for free to prove what the problem is.

My truck is a problem child from ford and ate an injector, and likely burned/cracked a piston in the process. Fixing it will cost 6 to 10k if I do it myself which is what I plan on doing. If I can spend a grand on the audi and have a second vehicle again, it would be much easier to get the money together for the engine repair on the truck over time. I dont have that laying around, but i can swing a grand.

I've got the time, and ih have a 3500 square foot heated garage at home...I'm good for space and working on the vehicles and I used to make my living turning wrenches at the ford dealer. That was a while ago but I can still read a shop manual like the rest of the monkeys I worked with!

To everyone offering helpful and even encouraging suggestions I thank you. I just got the battery and I'm headed home to play now!

Fasterd
11-27-2018, 02:02 PM
My apologies: This model year is known to have issues with EVERYTHING!

all seriousness, if you can do work then get to it! I would start with Fuel/Spark verification and Crank/Cam position sensors as they are both triggers to no start condition.

Afmedic
11-27-2018, 02:11 PM
No apology needed, I was just looking for constructive input! I will most certainly be checking fuel and spark!

Fasterd
11-27-2018, 02:16 PM
I mean the crank and cam sensors though, if the ECM doesn't sense signal it will not allow starter to fire.

Do you happen to know any circumstances around its death? Were there any symptoms or characteristics about its drivability?

Afmedic
11-27-2018, 02:17 PM
Ahh gotcha. I will check that. I know her dad said he replaced the cam sensor because it threw a code for it at one point but I will verify it is still working

ktsimp721
11-27-2018, 02:51 PM
All valid points by everyone!!! I do agree that itís gonna be a little harder to do this without having access to another car to do parts runs and such.... vcds def most useful, itís like fuse 29 I believe for the fuel pump youíll pull it and youíll pull the coil packs and then crank to see if you got spark.... and you had got gas coming and spark to the coil packs.. this is very important- check the gap on the spark plugs it should
Be .028.. that will definitely not let it start .and if there coolant coming out well now you gotta change the head gasket.. anyways once you get it running youíll see how long you got till you gotta change the turbo... just change it with ko4 rite off the back then tune... its fun and rewarding in the end good luck bro keep us posted !!!


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Blazius
11-27-2018, 03:18 PM
Because I've lived it.

You clearly need a car, as you just lost the truck. It sounds like you're looking for a car that with some minor work can be back on the road. You may fix the problem today, but these cars are constant work with niche knowledge and tools. There are so many nuances regarding VW that is night and day from conventional wisdom, and everything has to be perfect. Add in 20 years and the fact that it is a turbo motor 3 generations ago....need i say more?

Go look on your drive home how many 10+ year old cars are around you, now 20? then add all the other things I just said, plus the fact that parts are more expensive by default and you tell me if this is a cost effective way of solving your problem.

If you like the car or it has sentimental value, but it in the garage and come back to it when times are good.

Cheers,
Will

I dont know man 1.8t is one of the best engines VW has ever made, and they wont make one like this ever again I am sure, you think all these newer crapboxes they make are any good ? they are f'ing trash.

Now I am not saying b5's are reliable, but motor and eletronically they are pretty damn fine.. Double wishbone suspension all that shit is not the best but its for comfortability, now I dont know again , how are things with old european cars in NA but in EU they are way cheaper to buy and to fix up than any new car you can buy that breaks after 5 years of usage.

Fasterd
11-27-2018, 03:19 PM
For sure, but that 1.8 is in a 20 yr old Passat :)

The 1.8t is why I by b5's not the other way around

ktsimp721
11-27-2018, 04:38 PM
9516795168 .... good times >;))


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rockbeau25
11-27-2018, 06:12 PM
My apologies: This model year is known to have issues with EVERYTHING!

all seriousness, if you can do work then get to it! I would start with Fuel/Spark verification and Crank/Cam position sensors as they are both triggers to no start condition.

What makes this particular year any worse than any other B5? This is the first I've ever heard someone say that.

Afmedic
11-28-2018, 11:28 AM
All valid points by everyone!!! I do agree that itís gonna be a little harder to do this without having access to another car to do parts runs and such.... vcds def most useful, itís like fuse 29 I believe for the fuel pump youíll pull it and youíll pull the coil packs and then crank to see if you got spark.... and you had got gas coming and spark to the coil packs.. this is very important- check the gap on the spark plugs it should
Be .028.. that will definitely not let it start .and if there coolant coming out well now you gotta change the head gasket.. anyways once you get it running youíll see how long you got till you gotta change the turbo... just change it with ko4 rite off the back then tune... its fun and rewarding in the end good luck bro keep us posted !!!


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Thanks for this! I'll check the plug gap when I pull them. I'm going to check compression too while I have the plugs out. Do you know what it should be on this motor?

We have the wife's suburban so we are still good for parts runs and getting to work.

I wish it was a manual car, it would be a lot more fun, but if we can get it going for not too much then it would be awesome. It is sentimental to her so even if we dont get it going right now, it WILL live again. Even if we have to motor swap it lol.

chris164935
11-28-2018, 11:56 AM
First thing you need to do is scan it for codes. Don't waste your time doing any of the labor stuff until after that. Once you've scanned the car, you can post the codes here or check out the Ross-Tech Wiki (http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/Category:Fault_Codes).

My guess though, is if it starts but does not stay running, you have a vacuum leak.

ktsimp721
11-28-2018, 12:14 PM
Thanks for this! I'll check the plug gap when I pull them. I'm going to check compression too while I have the plugs out. Do you know what it should be on this motor?

We have the wife's suburban so we are still good for parts runs and getting to work.

I wish it was a manual car, it would be a lot more fun, but if we can get it going for not too much then it would be awesome. It is sentimental to her so even if we dont get it going right now, it WILL live again. Even if we have to motor swap it lol.

So the compression numbers you should be getting minimum 165 psi .. but you really want to see 170- to 195 psi... also you want to see that itís more or less even throughout all 4 cylinders... supposedly cylinder 2 likes be lower than the rest.... fucking audis.. smh kinda normal but still a little bad ahahaha I had a leak in the head gasket at cylinder 2 caused the misfire whole time I was thinking like coil pack and coil pack wires and all that(although it had to be changed anyways) make sure the head gasket is good now itís not super hard to replace if you have the 3452 tool and torque wrench itís been chilling for a while make sure you donít have water/coolant in the oil and vise versa once it does start youíll end flushing oil and coolant anyways. I used drain flush seemed to work pretty good. My oil was like chocolate milk i flushed and filled twice and then burned the rest havenít a had an issue since


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Blazius
11-28-2018, 12:50 PM
Actually min compression must be atleast 101 PSI ( 7 bar ) and the permissible difference between cylinders is 45 PSI ( 3 bar). About cylinder 2 or 3 I cant remember , there is a slight difference to it yes , which usually affects knock sensor for that cylinder too, apparently its because of water jackets routing near that cylinder.

ktsimp721
11-28-2018, 01:51 PM
Actually min compression must be atleast 101 PSI ( 7 bar ) and the permissible difference between cylinders is 45 PSI ( 3 bar). About cylinder 2 or 3 I cant remember , there is a slight difference to it yes , which usually affects knock sensor for that cylinder too, apparently its because of water jackets routing near that cylinder.

Interesteting so if it blows 130 psi through all cylinders evenly your saying itís good? Idk thatís sounds hella low to me... but Iím not a mechanic but def a b5 junkie. But please do clarify for truthfulness of the forum mine blew 180 and didnít look at it cylinder 2 at that time cuz I seen it was leaking


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ktsimp721
11-28-2018, 02:04 PM
If you read else where and Audizine included nowhere does it say 140 psi is acceptable lol if itís that low well now you need to look into why itís not higher.. this is why I say 165 is like basically still kinda healthy .... look it up ......


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Fasterd
11-28-2018, 02:08 PM
Dry vs wet test perhaps......[confused]

Afmedic
11-29-2018, 05:04 AM
I will most definitely pull codes on it I have been super swamped with work so I haven't had much time to work on it I know that the tank is dry so it definitely wont start like that... I'm going to pull the codes next time i am home.

Blazius
11-29-2018, 05:33 AM
If you read else where and Audizine included nowhere does it say 140 psi is acceptable lol if itís that low well now you need to look into why itís not higher.. this is why I say 165 is like basically still kinda healthy .... look it up ......


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Its straight from Bentley https://i.imgur.com/jwn7PCj.png

ktsimp721
11-29-2018, 07:18 AM
Its straight from Bentley https://i.imgur.com/jwn7PCj.png

Good shit .


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nynoah
11-29-2018, 08:10 AM
Replace battery and check for spark. Then fuel, and do a compression check at somet point.

Honestly these engines are not too hard to work on.

Afmedic
12-01-2018, 11:52 AM
Still no update...I havent had any time at all to work on the car. I still havent even gotten fuel for it. Hopefully my schedule will clear up and i can knock it out!

Cactus Avant
12-01-2018, 07:35 PM
My apologies, as I didn't read through the entire thread, but from the symptoms you have, I have been in a very similar situation. My car would start and run for a few seconds then die again. Obviously, like others said, checking the codes and a lot of the other suggestions are really important, but if all else fails, it might be worth your time to look into the coil packs/ICM (if you have one). My problem was actually bad coil packs. I see you have a 2000, so you probably have the ATW engine code which I believe has the older style coil packs and thus probably an ignition control module (ICM) too. Those tend to go bad after a while, so it might be worth while looking into those to see if a coil or the ICM is faulty. Replacing those, or doing a 2.0 coil pack conversion could help.

mobildetroit
12-03-2018, 02:16 PM
Your first mistake is assuming the Audi would be the easier one to fix....

First step, get VCDS https://www.ross-tech.com/ and a computer to plug into the computer with. Read whatever codes are in the computer, likely none if you haven't been able to get it running. But will if you did. If you have no codes and can't get the engine running, check fuel pressure. See if the fuel pressure comes up when you try to start, see if it leaks off to quickly if the car doesn't start. If it leaks off quickly chances are it's the fuel pressure regulator...although if they fail usually the car will run like crap, run to rich, but they don't just cut out. Sometimes injectors in these cars leak into the intake or outside of the engine if the orings are bad (you will smell gas in the engine bay if leaking at the orings). If no leak down on fuel and it holds adequate pressure (its a high pressure type fuel pump, 50+ psi). Has the fuel filter ever been changed? Plugged up fuel filters can cause engines to cut out, pressure at the rail would likely build up slowly if plugged (fyi...Audi's don't use common size fuel rail fittings, but you may be able to use a typical fuel pressure guage at the fuel pump sender outlet to get a pressure reading....although it will be between the pump and filter, so you won't get filter state idea, maybe just replace the fuel filter due to age if you suspect fuel delivery issues if the pump obviously runs). Next, pull the spark coils and test them to make sure they have correct ohm rating (google it, people have posted what the ohm ratings should be). If it's ignition related and the coils check out ok, check the ignition control wires, Audi puts shitty wire in these cars and the ignition control wires tend to melt and short, causing ignition failure (quit running and never start or run good again). if you have melty ignition wires you can buy new pigtails and solder them in (replace the bad wires). You can get a new engine compartment wiring harness from Audi but it costs as much as a used A4 of your year model, so.....fuck Audi. Anyway, if that all looks good, no codes on the computer, then check all the vacuum hoses and intake pressure side hoses, they should all be free of cracks, holes and loose connections, if not that could cause the engine to run really bad and maybe not start. If all is good, put a new set of plugs in it, make sure you have a new battery with it all charged up and see if you can get it started. Just get the old cheapo copper plugs for it, people make to much of a big deal about plugs in these cars. Whatever you do, don't start buying parts for the car assuming they will fix the problem...it almost never does and that's why Audi's end up costing people tons of money to fix. Anyway you look at it, sometimes diagnosing these cars are a serious pain in the ass.

Afmedic
12-03-2018, 05:11 PM
Thanks for the detailed response! I'm not wo much looking for easier fix as much as I am cheaper short term fix. I've put over 1500 in parts into my truck so far this week. I may have it fixed, but I'm still going to get the audi running. I wont know on the truck until tomorrow though

mobildetroit
12-05-2018, 12:12 PM
What makes this particular year any worse than any other B5? This is the first I've ever heard someone say that.

In general Audi's suck...especially after they are about a few weeks old....that's what more then one Audi dealership mechanic has told me.

mobildetroit
12-05-2018, 12:14 PM
My apologies, as I didn't read through the entire thread, but from the symptoms you have, I have been in a very similar situation. My car would start and run for a few seconds then die again. Obviously, like others said, checking the codes and a lot of the other suggestions are really important, but if all else fails, it might be worth your time to look into the coil packs/ICM (if you have one). My problem was actually bad coil packs. I see you have a 2000, so you probably have the ATW engine code which I believe has the older style coil packs and thus probably an ignition control module (ICM) too. Those tend to go bad after a while, so it might be worth while looking into those to see if a coil or the ICM is faulty. Replacing those, or doing a 2.0 coil pack conversion could help.

Regarding ignition....I've had the best luck with cheapo copper plugs...these engines don't require any kind of special spark plug...in fact especially when they get older and run richer due to lower compression....the platinum/iridium plugs foul much easier then the copper plugs....

Fasterd
12-05-2018, 12:16 PM
Regarding ignition....I've had the best luck with cheapo copper plugs...these engines don't require any kind of special spark plug...in fact especially when they get older and run richer due to lower compression....the platinum/iridium plugs foul much easier then the copper plugs....

I have not had this experience with a properly maintained car.

Plugs are important if you plan to make any power, or want it to run as designed. (That goes for any cheap substitute for quality parts)

V70R
12-07-2018, 08:48 PM
Your first mistake is assuming the Audi would be the easier one to fix....


I donít think youíve ever ever seen a 6.4 powerstroke. Itís one of the largest, most complex production diesels ever made. Thereís literally more plumbing in the V of that motor with factory compound turbos than whatís under a house.

RENOxDECEPTION
12-08-2018, 01:20 AM
My apologies, as I didn't read through the entire thread, but from the symptoms you have, I have been in a very similar situation. My car would start and run for a few seconds then die again. Obviously, like others said, checking the codes and a lot of the other suggestions are really important, but if all else fails, it might be worth your time to look into the coil packs/ICM (if you have one). My problem was actually bad coil packs. I see you have a 2000, so you probably have the ATW engine code which I believe has the older style coil packs and thus probably an ignition control module (ICM) too. Those tend to go bad after a while, so it might be worth while looking into those to see if a coil or the ICM is faulty. Replacing those, or doing a 2.0 coil pack conversion could help.

ATW does not have an ICM, but is plagued with garbage (yellow top) coil packs.
http://www.ecstuning.com/product_library/1434/300/Coil%20Pack%20-%20Latest%20%22E%22%20Version%20-%20Set%20Of%204.jpg




Your first mistake is assuming the Audi would be the easier one to fix....

First step, get VCDS https://www.ross-tech.com/ and a computer to plug into the computer with. Read whatever codes are in the computer, likely none if you haven't been able to get it running. But will if you did. If you have no codes and can't get the engine running, check fuel pressure. See if the fuel pressure comes up when you try to start, see if it leaks off to quickly if the car doesn't start. If it leaks off quickly chances are it's the fuel pressure regulator...although if they fail usually the car will run like crap, run to rich, but they don't just cut out. Sometimes injectors in these cars leak into the intake or outside of the engine if the orings are bad (you will smell gas in the engine bay if leaking at the orings). If no leak down on fuel and it holds adequate pressure (its a high pressure type fuel pump, 50+ psi). Has the fuel filter ever been changed? Plugged up fuel filters can cause engines to cut out, pressure at the rail would likely build up slowly if plugged (fyi...Audi's don't use common size fuel rail fittings, but you may be able to use a typical fuel pressure guage at the fuel pump sender outlet to get a pressure reading....although it will be between the pump and filter, so you won't get filter state idea, maybe just replace the fuel filter due to age if you suspect fuel delivery issues if the pump obviously runs). Next, pull the spark coils and test them to make sure they have correct ohm rating (google it, people have posted what the ohm ratings should be). If it's ignition related and the coils check out ok, check the ignition control wires, Audi puts shitty wire in these cars and the ignition control wires tend to melt and short, causing ignition failure (quit running and never start or run good again). if you have melty ignition wires you can buy new pigtails and solder them in (replace the bad wires). You can get a new engine compartment wiring harness from Audi but it costs as much as a used A4 of your year model, so.....fuck Audi. Anyway, if that all looks good, no codes on the computer, then check all the vacuum hoses and intake pressure side hoses, they should all be free of cracks, holes and loose connections, if not that could cause the engine to run really bad and maybe not start. If all is good, put a new set of plugs in it, make sure you have a new battery with it all charged up and see if you can get it started. Just get the old cheapo copper plugs for it, people make to much of a big deal about plugs in these cars. Whatever you do, don't start buying parts for the car assuming they will fix the problem...it almost never does and that's why Audi's end up costing people tons of money to fix. Anyway you look at it, sometimes diagnosing these cars are a serious pain in the ass.

Worth mentioning that VCDS lite can do *most* functions on a b5 including reading codes and can be had on flea bay for <$15

Look for a blue cable with "ftdi" in the title.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/FTDI-FT232RL-VAG-USB-diagnostic-cable-for-use-2x2-cable-for-VCD-Lite-US-seller/123394576058?hash=item1cbae3ceba:rk:1:pf:0

Even comes with an adapter for plugging into C4 A6's that you can throw in the trash.

zandrew
12-08-2018, 01:36 PM
Regarding ignition....I've had the best luck with cheapo copper plugs...these engines don't require any kind of special spark plug...in fact especially when they get older and run richer due to lower compression....the platinum/iridium plugs foul much easier then the copper plugs....

Cheapo copper plugs are fine but they don't last and need to be changed often. That is the point of platinum plugs, they can last 100,000 miles without issue. Having them gapped correctly is something few do and typically open box and install. They should be gapped.

I had a similar issue with my b5 s4. It ended up being the full pump. Once you get the battery in check the fuel pump fuse and ecu fuse, they are 28 and 29. If you can check voltage wifth a multimeter i would do that as well. Another issue the fuel pump relay can go bad. Mine showed no voltage at the pump or the relay. Also no voltage at the 30a (or the 87f cant remember right off) post which is where the power comes from before heading to the pump. When i didnt have power at the fuse panel i assumed that was my issue. I literally just through a cheapo full pump in to eliminate it and it ended up fixing the car.

Diagnosing issues in these cars can be a pain. Some the areas you have to get into are cramped to beat hell. They can be fun cars though and if you are willing to wrench it can be rewarding. I would not sink to much into it with it having the auto trans tho.

lunamarA4
12-08-2018, 02:39 PM
If it turns out that it's the coil packs..then PM me..I have a set of brand new ones for sale

Also have the 034 wiring harness to replace the old wires if needed

Afmedic
02-02-2019, 04:08 PM
Sorry it's been so long since I updated. I got the 6.4 running again with about 1800 bucks, so I've been driving it and kinda put the audi on the back Burner. I am at the point now where the fuel pump is bad. No pressure, no noise, no nothing. I put a test light on the connector and it lights up bright, so I know that the power and ground both work. I ordered a new pump, but when I took it out the fuel tube was dry rotted, so now I'm waiting for one of those to come in. I'll update again soon! Thanks again yall

raswin
02-02-2019, 07:00 PM
Donít get discouraged, just keep plugin away....


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b5v6
02-03-2019, 02:09 PM
Good luck! I know there was a the suggestion of not taking this project on. I tell all my friends not to get an Audi if they plan to keep the vehicle long term AND are not going to do the maintenance/repairs themselves. It's tough for the wallet to keep up. You were asking for sound reasoning or evidence, so here you go. The B5 A4 was on the top five MOST UNRELIABLE vehicle list back in the day. If you're gonna own a European vehicle that has some age/mileage on it make sure you have a backup. All my European cars have left me stranded at one point and I don't stick to one brand.
If you're going to keep the B5 I believe the biggest contributor to the unreliability is the heat in the engine bay caused by the catalytic converter and turbo both being tucked in there next to each other. Hell, my cat used to glow red after spirited driving so think about all that heat radiator around electrical components, rubber hoses, etc. I moved mine to under the car for this reason.
On a positive side the B5 1.8T can be relatively easy to work on with an abundance of information available. But I believe Fasterd was well within acceptable behavior to give an opinion of not being the ideal vehicle to fix. He has a point, be warned.

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