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fR3ZNO
11-20-2018, 07:02 AM
2000 Audi A4 1.8T Quattro 5MT

No auto scans yet.

I've been having issues trying to program the key fob. It is an eBay 3 button key fob. The car only came with the valet key. The key fob did work initially and was able to successfully program it to the car, this was around March shortly after purchasing the car. Been having issues ever since the trunk area where the module sits got flooded due to a disconnected sunroof drain hose (car is parked outside). I did my best to dry it out and clean the corrosion off the board and the connector housings. I don't know how long it was underwater for. Fast forward to last night and I installed a CLM from the junkyard. The part number of the new module is the same as the old one (8L0 862 257 N). I also grabbed the pigtails and connectors from the car in the junkyard, but have not replaced them yet.

With the new CLM installed, I changed the soft coding to what it was on the old CLM (also changed the WSC if it matters). I've been trying to program the fob to the new CLM and been unable to do it using the following procedure (http://www.ross-tech.com/vag-com/cars/vw-remote-matching.html):

When I do the initial part of the procedure the car gives no confirmation of any button presses and the door does not unlock with the fob. I have also tried to clear the CLM memory using Adaptation Channel 00. It says that it's saved successfully, but when I go to measuring blocks, group 003 it shows memory positions at 1111 (memory full, 4 fobs programmed).

Iíve checked the fob battery, itís good (3.2v).

Also tried the output tests via VCDS and theyíre all successful...

The new CLM didn't have any fault codes stored during all this either.

I donít think the key fob is bad or anything because it was working fine before the CLM got flooded. I think my issue is with the full key fob memory positions.

With the weather getting colder here in Upstate NY, I have been having issues with the battery going flat while sitting outside. But during the above work, I had the battery hooked up to a charger with the car parked in the garage. I will be replacing the battery once it comes in at the dealer.

rollerton
11-20-2018, 12:56 PM
Wish I had a good answer for you. I ran into the exact same problem on a 99í A6 I owned a few years ago.
After being perfectly fine and working great for years it suddenly wouldnít program new remotes, It also decided to permanently assign seat memory to the drivers seat. I was never able to program new ones or even erase the saved ones.
I never did figure it out. It had no flooding or any other real problems, and replacing the CLM didnít fix it.

fR3ZNO
11-20-2018, 08:04 PM
Wish I had a good answer for you. I ran into the exact same problem on a 99í A6 I owned a few years ago.
After being perfectly fine and working great for years it suddenly wouldnít program new remotes, It also decided to permanently assign seat memory to the drivers seat. I was never able to program new ones or even erase the saved ones.
I never did figure it out. It had no flooding or any other real problems, and replacing the CLM didnít fix it.

Interesting. At least with my situation this all started after the flooding.

Dug into it a little more tonight and found the shielding wire for the antenna was broken. Thereís a section where itís has no insulation and thatís right where it broke from corrosion.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181121/98f9cb40ac2f244bdf45edee4cfe476c.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181121/cf7feade9997f0f1de1da036d9aabe73.jpg

The black wire is the shielding that then goes around the clear jacketed wire. The shielding is pin 7 of the black 12 pin connector.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181121/d59aee874b850cf24e8613366b577356.jpg

So I figured between the corrosion on the pins and the broken wire, that HAD to be my problem. I went ahead and spliced in the new pigtail and connector. The other two connectors looked fine so I left them alone for now.

Plugged in the ďnewĒ CLM and still couldnít get the memory to clear or key fob to be recognized through any programming procedure. For poops and giggles I swapped back to the old one that I tried cleaning with deoxit. That didnít work either. Both CLMs would not clear key fob memory. For what itís worth the old one had 1 slot (0001 in field 2 of Measuring block 003) taken... which makes sense because I only had one remote programmed before this all started. The new CLM has all 4 slots (1111) taken. I couldnít even get the remote to program in any of the unused slots on the old CLM. Both CLMís successfully went through the output tests with VCDS as well.

Ran an auto scan, will post that later.

Needless to say Iím a little frustrated after messing around with splicing in the new connector. At this point Iím ready to just live without the key fob... but I just hate not knowing why itís not fixed.

Cybersombosis
11-20-2018, 11:39 PM
Do you have a second key? If not, know anyone who is a machinist? I had my brother in law cut a couple from a picture he took of the key and loaded it into Solid Works. Worked beautifully. With two keys, you can do it the non VCDS way which is what I did.

Doug

fR3ZNO
11-21-2018, 06:21 AM
Do you have a second key? If not, know anyone who is a machinist? I had my brother in law cut a couple from a picture he took of the key and loaded it into Solid Works. Worked beautifully. With two keys, you can do it the non VCDS way which is what I did.

Doug

I do have a second key, itís a valet/mechanic key. Whatever you call it.

I tried clearing the memory with the key method before I fixed the antenna wire, so Iíll have to give that a try.

RENOxDECEPTION
11-22-2018, 11:01 PM
eBay three button for a car with a two button...I would call that a conflict of interest but I was able to program an eBay 3 button for my 2000 sedan.

Ugh Iím going to have this issue with my 98. Stole the button for the panic off the key fob pcb because I never planned on getting the car running, and accidentally lost the tiniest resistor/diode SMD off of it.

Do you still have the old pump?

Rollerton probably knows where Iím going with this based on the other thread he participated in.

fR3ZNO
11-23-2018, 04:59 AM
eBay three button for a car with a two button...I would call that a conflict of interest but I was able to program an eBay 3 button for my 2000 sedan.

Ugh Iím going to have this issue with my 98. Stole the button for the panic off the key fob pcb because I never planned on getting the car running, and accidentally lost the tiniest resistor/diode SMD off of it.

Do you still have the old pump?

Rollerton probably knows where Iím going with this based on the other thread he participated in.

Yeah, the car never came with a fob so I wasnít sure which style fob it took.

I still have the old pump

Estarossa
11-23-2018, 09:18 AM
Iíve been having the same issue with my 01í sedan...... 🤦🏽*♂️


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fR3ZNO
11-24-2018, 06:13 PM
One thing that Iíve noticed is that locking the driver door with the key blade doesnít arm the alarm. The red light doesnít blink. Iím not sure if thatís related to my issue. I do remember that the alarm would set when locking the car back when I first starting having issues with the key fob. So idk what happened between then and now.

Maybe thereís an issue with the micro switch the door latch module?

PringlesInVic
11-24-2018, 06:23 PM
Maybe thereís an issue with the micro switch the door latch module?

This might be your problem. I had a bad door switch on the rear driver side, couldnít tell under the little rubber boot but it was broken. So my alarm never armed when I locked the doors with the key in the lock. Once I fixed the door switch, alarm started arming.

Do your front foot well lights come on when you open the front doors? What about the back courtesy lights when doors open?

fR3ZNO
11-25-2018, 06:24 AM
This might be your problem. I had a bad door switch on the rear driver side, couldnít tell under the little rubber boot but it was broken. So my alarm never armed when I locked the doors with the key in the lock. Once I fixed the door switch, alarm started arming.

Do your front foot well lights come on when you open the front doors? What about the back courtesy lights when doors open?

I thought the footwell lights did come on. Iíll have to check.

fR3ZNO
11-26-2018, 07:34 AM
Here's an auto scan:


Tuesday,20,November,2018,21:34:12:22664
VCDS -- Windows Based VAG/VAS Emulator Running on Windows 10 x64
VCDS Version: 18.2.0.3 (x64)
Data version: 20180212 DS287.0
www.Ross-Tech.com




Chassis Type: 8D - Audi A4/S4/RS4 B5 (1995 > 2002)
Scan: 01 02 03 08 15 16 17 25 35 37 45 55 56 57 67 75 76 77

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 01: Engine Labels: 058-906-018-ATW.lbl
Part No: 4B0 906 018 P
Component: 1.8L R4/5VT G 0006
Coding: 07201
Shop #: WSC 06335
VCID: 2E53E2A5EA4FCD34BA-5140

4 Faults Found:
18014 - Rough Road/Engine Torque Signal from ABS
P1606 - 35-10 - Electrical Malfunction - Intermittent
16684 - Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected
P0300 - 35-10 - - Intermittent
16687 - Cylinder 3
P0303 - 35-10 - Misfire Detected - Intermittent
18010 - Power Supply Terminal 30
P1602 - 35-10 - Voltage too Low - Intermittent
Readiness: 0010 0001

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 08: Auto HVAC Labels: 8D0-820-043-1D.lbl
Part No: 8D0 820 043 P
Component: A4 KLIMAAUTOMAT D56
Coding: 00140
Shop #: WSC 06335
VCID: 2D51E5A9E749B62C83-2594

2 Faults Found:
00779 - Outside Air Temp Sensor (G17)
30-00 - Open or Short to Plus
01206 - Signal for Duration of Ignition Off Time
27-10 - Implausible Signal - Intermittent

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 15: Airbags Labels: 8D0-959-655-AI8.lbl
Part No: 8D0 959 655 K
Component: Airbag Front+Seite 1002
Coding: 00104
Shop #: WSC 06335
VCID: 3E73D2E53A2F3DB42A-515C

1 Fault Found:
00532 - Supply Voltage B+
07-10 - Signal too Low - Intermittent

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 17: Instruments Labels: 8D0-920-xxx-17.lbl
Part No: 8D0 920 980 C
Component: B5-KOMBIINSTR. VDO D09
Coding: 02244
Shop #: WSC 00000
VCID: 2B55EBB1D95DB81C9D-5140

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 35: Centr. Locks Labels:. 8D0-862-257.lbl
Part No: 8L0 862 257 N
Component: CV-Pump D11
Coding: 16204
Shop #: WSC 06335
VCID: 408FAC1D40DB4B4458-4EEA

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 45: Inter. Monitor Labels: 4B0-951-173.lbl
Part No: 4B0 951 173
Component: Innenraumueberw. D03
Coding: 00101
Shop #: WSC 06335
VCID: 60CF4C9DE01B2B4478-4B4E

1 Fault Found:
01382 - Alarm triggered by Anti-Theft Sensor; Front Left
35-00 - -

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 56: Radio Labels: 8D0-035-1xx-56.lbl
Part No: 8D0 035 195 A
Component: Radio D00
Coding: 00201
Shop #: WSC 00001
VCID: 2447008DB48377645C-4B36

No fault code found.

End-------------------------(Elapsed Time: 04:10)--------------------------


I believe the alarm code is an older stored code, because I haven't been able to arm the alarm as I mentioned...

Cybersombosis
11-26-2018, 08:18 AM
Have you tried the 2 key method and what were your results?

fR3ZNO
11-26-2018, 10:14 AM
Have you tried the 2 key method and what were your results?

I have tried the 2 key method to program and clear memory and haven't gotten anything. When programming I get zero notification from car that it's been programmed (no light blink, horn honk, etc)

walky_talky20
11-28-2018, 04:55 AM
I am fairly certain the VCDS programming method does not apply to the B5. At least North American B5 A4's. VCDS can show you how many remotes are programmed and that's about it. You must add keys using the 2-key dance. (Oddly, B5 Passats are a completely different story.)

For the 2-key dance to work, it is critical that the microswitches in the driver's door lock cylinder are all working perfectly and all those signals are successfully getting to the CLM. In VCDS measuring blocks, I would test that the cylinder positions and all status bits are responding correctly. Especially those for the driver's door. I think it is not uncommon for these microswitches (or perhaps the wires in the door) to fail. A friend of mine was trying for hours to program a B5 Passat fob. With VCDS I was able to see the drivers cylinder microswitch was not responding and thus not allowing the manual program. Luckily there's a "Plan B" on the Passat: you can program with VCDS instead. This workaround is not available on the A4 as far as I know, so everything has to work.

Also make sure the part number / frequency / FCC ID of your fob is correct for a North American B5. Lots of European fobs end up on 'Murican ebay and they operate on a different band.

Myself, I program stubborn remotes by just force-loading the CLM EEPROM using a homemade in-line adapter cable, an Arduino and a Super NES controller. << j/k, but wouldn't I be so cool? [cool]

fR3ZNO
11-28-2018, 06:24 AM
I am fairly certain the VCDS programming method does not apply to the B5. At least North American B5 A4's. VCDS can show you how many remotes are programmed and that's about it. You must add keys using the 2-key dance. (Oddly, B5 Passats are a completely different story.)

For the 2-key dance to work, it is critical that the microswitches in the driver's door lock cylinder are all working perfectly and all those signals are successfully getting to the CLM. In VCDS measuring blocks, I would test that the cylinder positions and all status bits are responding correctly. Especially those for the driver's door. I think it is not uncommon for these microswitches (or perhaps the wires in the door) to fail. A friend of mine was trying for hours to program a B5 Passat fob. With VCDS I was able to see the drivers cylinder microswitch was not responding and thus not allowing the manual program. Luckily there's a "Plan B" on the Passat: you can program with VCDS instead. This workaround is not available on the A4 as far as I know, so everything has to work.

Also make sure the part number / frequency / FCC ID of your fob is correct for a North American B5. Lots of European fobs end up on 'Murican ebay and they operate on a different band.

Myself, I program stubborn remotes by just force-loading the CLM EEPROM using a homemade in-line adapter cable, an Arduino and a Super NES controller. << j/k, but wouldn't I be so cool? [cool]

Thanks for your input, Walky.

I didn't suspect an issue with the micro switch for the driver's door since the interior lights come on when opening that door. However, I will definitely double check and see what bits are showing in VCDS, perhaps there's an issue with the lock cylinder.

and yeah, you don't directly program the keys with VCDS on a B5 A4. By programming with VCDS, I meant that I use it to help show what's going on during the procedure. I have programmed keys on my B6 A4 and B5.5 Passats before and they are definitely different in that it can be done completely with VCDS and no "dance" required. lol. However, they have completely different CCM's from the B5 A4, etc.

lol, a friend of mine suggested removing and soldering the EEPROM from my old CLM to the new one. But that does sound way cooler. [:p]

walky_talky20
11-28-2018, 06:43 AM
Yep, it's just Up-Down-Up-Down-Left-Right-A-B-A-B, then key in the remote ID in binary (X for Zero, Y for 1), hold L+R to burn the ROM and presto!

fR3ZNO
11-28-2018, 07:16 AM
BRB trying that

walky_talky20
11-28-2018, 01:16 PM
https://media.giphy.com/media/MZ9TDLRhNw2dy/giphy.gif

Joe Jr.
11-29-2018, 11:16 AM
tagging this. i need to program some fobs soon also.

Mattr567
11-29-2018, 04:29 PM
I did the two key program after I had to replace my locking pump since the original got flooded, worked perfectly with the junkyard pump.

I have 3 keys total: 2 fobs and a normal one [evilsmile]

fR3ZNO
11-29-2018, 04:33 PM
tagging this. i need to program some fobs soon also.
Hopefully you donít have the issues Iím having lol

I did the two key program after I had to replace my locking pump since the original got flooded, worked perfectly with the junkyard pump.

I have 3 keys total: 2 fobs and a normal one [evilsmile]

Yeah, I think thereís something else going on thatís not the CLM.

Cybersombosis
11-29-2018, 04:50 PM
I did the two key program after I had to replace my locking pump since the original got flooded, worked perfectly with the junkyard pump.

I have 3 keys total: 2 fobs and a normal one [evilsmile]

Hey Matt. Can you confirm if there were any beeps or flashing lights when you programmed yours. I donít recall mine doing anything when I reprogrammed my fobs.

Doug

PS. All you are missing is the plastic emergency key you get when new [;)]

Mattr567
11-29-2018, 04:56 PM
Hey Matt. Can you confirm if there were any beeps or flashing lights when you programmed yours. I donít recall mine doing anything when I reprogrammed my fobs.

Doug

PS. All you are missing is the plastic emergency key you get when new [;)]

I don't remember, but maybe some flashing? Kinda in the same boat as you. 99.0 fyi.

The whole key is plastic? Damn never seen that!

PringlesInVic
11-29-2018, 06:03 PM
I got lights flashing when I cleared my codes, and programmed the fob. But no horn.


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Cybersombosis
11-29-2018, 06:04 PM
I keep mine in my wallet just in case.

https://www.audi-sport.net/xf/attachments/img_4108-jpg.58933/

Doug

fR3ZNO
11-30-2018, 06:41 AM
I got lights flashing when I cleared my codes, and programmed the fob. But no horn.


Sent from my iPhone using Audizine (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=87676)

This is what I recall it doing as well when I was able to program the fobs. Lights but no horn.

fR3ZNO
12-05-2018, 05:47 AM
I thought the footwell lights did come on. Iíll have to check.

Just to bump this, noticed yesterday that the footwell and interior lights do come on when opening the driver's door. Also, when locking the door with the key, only the driver's door locks. None of the other doors lock. Only way to get the other doors to lock is with the interior lock button.

Cybersombosis
12-05-2018, 07:51 AM
Sounds like there is a wire in the door loom that is broken. Pull back the accordion looking thing in the door jamb and inspect.

fR3ZNO
12-05-2018, 09:28 AM
Sounds like there is a wire in the door loom that is broken. Pull back the accordion looking thing in the door jamb and inspect.

Will do

walky_talky20
12-05-2018, 12:02 PM
Ding Ding Ding. I'll take Lock Cylinder Microswitch Signals for $1000, Alex.

fR3ZNO
12-06-2018, 06:00 AM
Ding Ding Ding. I'll take Lock Cylinder Microswitch Signals for $1000, Alex.

https://media.giphy.com/media/xjxfN2AL1UckOrcvQg/giphy.gif

I'll check it out and see, I just find it strange that it managed to stop working right around the same time the CLM flooded. So who knows at this point. [confused] Hence why I didn't really suspect the microswitches.

Cybersombosis
12-06-2018, 07:39 AM
One is not related to the other. The fob controls the pump which in turn locks the doors. The switch in the lock is used to tell the pump to lock/unlock and to program the CLM. Itís probably been out for a while. Unless you lock your doors with your key and noticed your other doors not locking you wouldnít be able to tell it wasnít working because you would have used your fob all this time.

fR3ZNO
12-06-2018, 08:23 AM
One is not related to the other. The fob controls the pump which in turn locks the doors. The switch in the lock is used to tell the pump to lock/unlock and to program the CLM. Itís probably been out for a while. Unless you lock your doors with your key and noticed your other doors not locking you wouldnít be able to tell it wasnít working because you would have used your fob all this time.

Well yeah, I'm aware they're separate things. Just the order of failure was strange to me. So yes, the switch likely stopped working sometime between A) having a functioning key fob and B) not being able to program the keys after swapping the CLM.

PringlesInVic
12-06-2018, 11:13 AM
Hmm...

I know you said that the battery was tired, but you were charging it. However I'm wondering if the locking issue may be caused but he weak battery. When it got cold here a couple weeks ago (read cold for here) my CLM failed to open the secondary doors, it would only unlock the driver door. Even the interior lock switches wouldn't work to operate the doors. This was a huge PITA when you're trying to load your toddler into the car and have to run to the other side to unlock the door fro the inside.

Anyway, I charged up the battery overnight and the next day everything worked as it should. And has since. It may not help with the programming issue, but maybe the overall function. Maybe test it with your B6 battery?

fR3ZNO
12-06-2018, 12:12 PM
Hmm...

I know you said that the battery was tired, but you were charging it. However I'm wondering if the locking issue may be caused but he weak battery. When it got cold here a couple weeks ago (read cold for here) my CLM failed to open the secondary doors, it would only unlock the driver door. Even the interior lock switches wouldn't work to operate the doors. This was a huge PITA when you're trying to load your toddler into the car and have to run to the other side to unlock the door fro the inside.

Anyway, I charged up the battery overnight and the next day everything worked as it should. And has since. It may not help with the programming issue, but maybe the overall function. Maybe test it with your B6 battery?

I was wondering that same thing myself. However, I did put a new battery in it this past weekend and it hasn't magically fixed itself yet. Although it has fixed the issue of needing to jump it all the time. [:p]

Planning to work on the B5 a bit tonight... so I have few things to check and will report back.

fR3ZNO
12-07-2018, 07:47 AM
Checked out the wires in the door rubber as suggested. Found two wires with frayed insulation... but no complete breaks as far as I could tell.

https://i.imgur.com/k4xfX7M.jpg

Referring to the wiring diagram on post #3 the red w/ blue tracer wire is one of the door switch circuits. The other wire with what look to be chew marks is white w/ blue tracer goes to the instrument cluster?

Also checked the microswitch signals with VCDS in measuring blocks 001 or 002, can't remember which one, but one of the fields had 4 bits under "rotary switch position" or something along those lines. I'm guessing that's the signal the CLM is looking for when you turn the key in the door lock cylinder, didn't see any of the corresponding bits change when turning the key in either direction.

So now it's down to investigating the switch and repairing the wires...

RENOxDECEPTION
12-08-2018, 01:26 AM
Now you'll be noticing clean door grommet rubbers also.

walky_talky20
12-08-2018, 10:46 AM
I think that Red/Blue wire is just power to the interior lock/unlock switch on the door panel and the door warning / courtesy light.

https://i.imgur.com/sIdv1zw.png

https://i.imgur.com/5jPqGjh.png

fR3ZNO
12-08-2018, 12:11 PM
I think that Red/Blue wire is just power to the interior lock/unlock switch on the door panel and the door warning / courtesy light.

https://i.imgur.com/sIdv1zw.png

https://i.imgur.com/5jPqGjh.png

If thatís the case, then both of those things work fine. Which make sense since itís not a complete break. So, then the microswitch for the lock cylinder is bad, no?

Cybersombosis
12-08-2018, 12:15 PM
Did you try pulling on each wire? Youíve pulled one end off of the accordion but there may be a break lower in the loom at the bottom end.

walky_talky20
12-08-2018, 04:12 PM
I mean, you don't even *have* to fix any of this. You can just fake out the necessary signals so the CLM thinks the key is turning. Some well-timed MacGuyver paperclip back-probe action and you'll have a remote programmed in no time flat.

Not being sarcastic at all. Jump the microswitch wires at the lock pump (like a boss) and you're golden.

If you really wanted to, you could hardwire a 3-position momentary ON-OFF-ON toggle switch so programming additional fobs and such is easier next time. It's 3 wires. Or, for epic bonus points, you could wire in a Super NES controller and use those buttons. You'd win, like, 5 internets.

rockbeau25
12-08-2018, 04:26 PM
Did you try googling it?

RENOxDECEPTION
12-08-2018, 06:38 PM
Did you try googling it?

https://media.tenor.com/images/e46b7ff936199131863f94b9c255fac9/tenor.gif

fR3ZNO
12-10-2018, 05:18 AM
Did you try pulling on each wire? Youíve pulled one end off of the accordion but there may be a break lower in the loom at the bottom end.

Not really, only focused on the two with the damaged insulation.


I mean, you don't even *have* to fix any of this. You can just fake out the necessary signals so the CLM thinks the key is turning. Some well-timed MacGuyver paperclip back-probe action and you'll have a remote programmed in no time flat.

Not being sarcastic at all. Jump the microswitch wires at the lock pump (like a boss) and you're golden.

If you really wanted to, you could hardwire a 3-position momentary ON-OFF-ON toggle switch so programming additional fobs and such is easier next time. It's 3 wires. Or, for epic bonus points, you could wire in a Super NES controller and use those buttons. You'd win, like, 5 internets.

I did consider this, since it's just a microswitch closing that the CLM is looking for, like you said. I didn't even think of jumping the wires AT the pump. I was thinking of jumping the wires for the switch at the door latch, but that's SO much more work to disassemble and get to. lol.

I have read on teh internets, that someone with a bad door lock switch successfully programmed their key using the trunk lock cylinder instead. Although, that's not an option for me since that is seized up... so jumping wires it is.


Did you try googling it?

brb

RENOxDECEPTION
12-11-2018, 10:55 PM
since that is seized up

disassemble that and fix it, a couple screws and 10mm bolts.

fR3ZNO
12-12-2018, 06:04 AM
disassemble that and fix it, a couple screws and 10mm bolts.

I already tried. lol. I got it to at least push in so I can open the trunk, but the internals of the lock are seized up like crazy, no saving it.

Pretty much followed this (https://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/575442-Audi-A4-B5-Trunk-latch-lock-disassembly-Pics-inside) and wasn't able to get the lock cylinder itself apart. I can't even get the key in the cylinder more than 1cm or so.

fR3ZNO
01-17-2019, 06:30 AM
I mean, you don't even *have* to fix any of this. You can just fake out the necessary signals so the CLM thinks the key is turning. Some well-timed MacGuyver paperclip back-probe action and you'll have a remote programmed in no time flat.

Not being sarcastic at all. Jump the microswitch wires at the lock pump (like a boss) and you're golden.

If you really wanted to, you could hardwire a 3-position momentary ON-OFF-ON toggle switch so programming additional fobs and such is easier next time. It's 3 wires. Or, for epic bonus points, you could wire in a Super NES controller and use those buttons. You'd win, like, 5 internets.

Finally got around to attempting the MacGuyver paper-clip back probe technique and the results left me scratching my head.

Had my laptop reading MB 001 and 002 for the CLM. Was mostly looking at field for "rotary switch position" to verify that I was jumping the correct wires to ground for the switch. Referring to the schematics posted earlier, A10 (RED/BRN) and C9 (GRY/WHT) on the CLM are the wires for the door lock microswitch. I used one of the mounting studs for the taillight as a convenient ground for the jumper.

I was able to get the pump to lock the doors by grounding pin A10. This was also verified by the bit changing in measuring blocks. However, I was unable to get the doors to unlock by grounding C9 or even get the bit to change showing that it was registering the ground. I could lock the doors with the key in the driver door lock but can not unlock (bits show locking signal from switch but not the unlock signal).

For shits and giggles, I was able to unlock the doors using the trunk lock alarm switch (grounding A5). But when I grounded A6, it didn't do anything nor did the corresponding bit change in MB. Not sure if that's normal operation, but figured I'd mention it. *shrug*

Now this is where it gets interesting...

The above was done with my original pump that was flooded and I attempted to clean and dry out as best as I could. So I swapped in the spare junkyard CLM that I had. It was not verified as working but there was no apparent water damage to the board when I popped it open.

With the spare CLM installed, I was only able to UNLOCK the doors by grounding pin C9. Grounding pin A10 did nothing, and measuring blocks verified this as well. I had the same behavior using the key in the door. Only could unlock doors, but couldn't lock them.

So based on these findings... I'm thinking the microswitch in the door is fine since it shows the appropriate signals for lock and unlock, but only with a certain CLM installed. So perhaps the spare CLM I have is also damaged? Looks like I need to get a tested, working CLM. Unless someone has a spare that they know for sure is good.

RENOxDECEPTION
01-17-2019, 11:31 PM
Want me to send you a clm I have Anyway? Itís untested lol just pay shipping.

fR3ZNO
01-18-2019, 05:17 AM
Want me to send you a clm I have Anyway? Itís untested lol just pay shipping.

I mean, third timeís the charm, right?

If you wouldnít mind slapping it in one of your B5ís just to test it first that would be great.

Mattr567
01-18-2019, 12:02 PM
At this point, knowing what you know, its gotta be the CLM. When mine flooded I just got a junkyard one and swapped it, easy ass fix.

fR3ZNO
01-18-2019, 04:52 PM
At this point, knowing what you know, its gotta be the CLM. When mine flooded I just got a junkyard one and swapped it, easy ass fix.

Yeah, thatís what Iím thinking. But just my luck that the spare I got isnít completely functional, lol.

V70R
01-20-2019, 03:20 AM
Is that the one I sent ya? Shit, feel bad.

Send me pics of the circuit board or post up here. That one appeared to never have any previous water damage but Iím starting to wonder if that is the culprit.

fR3ZNO
01-20-2019, 06:31 AM
Is that the one I sent ya? Shit, feel bad.

Send me pics of the circuit board or post up here. That one appeared to never have any previous water damage but Iím starting to wonder if that is the culprit.

Yeah, it is. No worries though. Itís always a crapshoot with used parts. Iíll snap some pics. I didnít see any water damage either when I opened it up after receiving it.

V70R
01-21-2019, 11:39 PM
Well, another is on the way.

Thatís how we roll.

fR3ZNO
01-22-2019, 05:14 AM
Well, another is on the way.

Thatís how we roll.

You sir, are a gentleman and a scholar.

walky_talky20
01-24-2019, 06:35 AM
Finally got around to attempting the MacGuyver paper-clip back probe technique and the results left me scratching my head.

Had my laptop reading MB 001 and 002 for the CLM. Was mostly looking at field for "rotary switch position" to verify that I was jumping the correct wires to ground for the switch. Referring to the schematics posted earlier, A10 (RED/BRN) and C9 (GRY/WHT) on the CLM are the wires for the door lock microswitch. I used one of the mounting studs for the taillight as a convenient ground for the jumper.

I was able to get the pump to lock the doors by grounding pin A10. This was also verified by the bit changing in measuring blocks. However, I was unable to get the doors to unlock by grounding C9 or even get the bit to change showing that it was registering the ground. I could lock the doors with the key in the driver door lock but can not unlock (bits show locking signal from switch but not the unlock signal).

For shits and giggles, I was able to unlock the doors using the trunk lock alarm switch (grounding A5). But when I grounded A6, it didn't do anything nor did the corresponding bit change in MB. Not sure if that's normal operation, but figured I'd mention it. *shrug*

Now this is where it gets interesting...

The above was done with my original pump that was flooded and I attempted to clean and dry out as best as I could. So I swapped in the spare junkyard CLM that I had. It was not verified as working but there was no apparent water damage to the board when I popped it open.

With the spare CLM installed, I was only able to UNLOCK the doors by grounding pin C9. Grounding pin A10 did nothing, and measuring blocks verified this as well. I had the same behavior using the key in the door. Only could unlock doors, but couldn't lock them.

So based on these findings... I'm thinking the microswitch in the door is fine since it shows the appropriate signals for lock and unlock, but only with a certain CLM installed. So perhaps the spare CLM I have is also damaged? Looks like I need to get a tested, working CLM. Unless someone has a spare that they know for sure is good.

Nice MacGuyver-ing. And with live datastream readout, even! I award a solid 3.5 Internets.

fR3ZNO
01-25-2019, 05:10 AM
Nice MacGuyver-ing. And with live datastream readout, even! I award a solid 3.5 Internets.

3.5 Internets award by THE walky himself? Jeez, that's resume worthy.

Joe Jr.
01-25-2019, 09:24 AM
Dave is moving up the totem pole?

fR3ZNO
01-25-2019, 10:08 AM
Dave is moving up the totem pole?

Guess so! lol

fR3ZNO
02-09-2019, 04:45 PM
Just wanted to follow this up with the solution to this issue. Big surprise, the replacement CLM was bad. Reno sent me the board out of one his CLMís and I soldered it in, since the other components werenít damaged by the water. Was able to clear the memory and program my fob, didnít even need to do any MacGyver paper clip maneuvers.


https://youtu.be/ni0R0zSvMds

Mattr567
02-09-2019, 11:35 PM
When in doubt, doubt unknown parts!

Like my dealer ordered brand new driver's door latch, which broke within 3 days >. >

Sent from my ONEPLUS A5000 using Audizine mobile app (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=87676)

fR3ZNO
02-10-2019, 06:12 AM
When in doubt, doubt unknown parts!

Like my dealer ordered brand new driver's door latch, which broke within 3 days >. >

Sent from my ONEPLUS A5000 using Audizine mobile app (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=87676)

ďThis brand new latch canít be broken!Ē *goes insane troubleshooting other parts*

Blazius
02-10-2019, 07:00 AM
When in doubt, doubt unknown parts!

Like my dealer ordered brand new driver's door latch, which broke within 3 days >. >

Sent from my ONEPLUS A5000 using Audizine mobile app (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=87676)

it brooke brother

Mattr567
02-10-2019, 08:24 AM
ďThis brand new latch canít be broken!Ē *goes insane troubleshooting other parts*Exactly lol.

The replacement one came in a much newer box too lmao.

Sent from my ONEPLUS A5000 using Audizine mobile app (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=87676)

fR3ZNO
02-10-2019, 09:23 AM
it brooke brother


https://youtu.be/Pk9CLicNyIg


Exactly lol.

The replacement one came in a much newer box too lmao.

Sent from my ONEPLUS A5000 using Audizine mobile app (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=87676)

Lol, what part broke(just curious)? The microswitch?

Blazius
02-10-2019, 10:07 AM
https://youtu.be/Pk9CLicNyIg



Lol, what part broke(just curious)? The microswitch?

lol fuck did i just watcg

Mattr567
02-10-2019, 11:02 AM
Lol, what part broke(just curious)? The microswitch?

Lol no, much more dramatic. The door stopped opening from the inside, was back to square 1 as that's how my original latch failed [rolleyes]

It completely failed mechanically.

Blazius
02-10-2019, 12:05 PM
Lol no, much more dramatic. The door stopped opening from the inside, was back to square 1 as that's how my original latch failed [rolleyes]

It completely failed mechanically.
smh american made german cars [:D]

Mattr567
02-10-2019, 12:08 PM
smh american made german cars [:D]Wat

Sent from my ONEPLUS A5000 using Audizine mobile app (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=87676)

Blazius
02-10-2019, 12:15 PM
Wat

Sent from my ONEPLUS A5000 using Audizine mobile app (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=87676)

bad trolling attempt :D

RENOxDECEPTION
02-10-2019, 06:34 PM
https://youtu.be/ni0R0zSvMds

FTFY

fR3ZNO
02-11-2019, 05:19 AM
FTFY

Meh, I blame Tapatalk. [>_<]