P0011 and p0172, where to start?

[2pointOh]

So I have had a p000a and a p0011 code that have popped up now and then, and my n205 has oil in the connector so I know it's bad. I haven't changed it because the car has run fine despite the codes and I just haven't felt the need to throw the $100 at it.

Just yesterday, I realized the car seemed to be "lunging" a bit while driving, so I scanned the CEL (expecting a p000a as usual) and a p0172 showed up for the first time. Cleared it, and it came back today with a rough idle on a cold start for a minute until it settled down to normal.

Could this be because of the n205 and colder weather? I'll buy one tomorrow if so. If not... start with the maf and go from there? Not sure what to look at really!

Thanks everyone

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[EvolutionArmory]

It looks like your codes are for cam timing. The P0172 code is a rich condition and can pop up when cam timing codes are present according to Ross Tech. If it was just this code with no timing codes I’d say you had a bad PCV or maybe a vacuum leak but check this link out.
http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/16556/P0172/000370

It looks like you should have the car checked to see if it’s cam timing tensioner and chain time. If you have oil in your N205 connector you should replace that but it might not be the end of it.

[2pointOh]

It looks like your codes are for cam timing. The P0172 code is a rich condition and can pop up when cam timing codes are present according to Ross Tech. If it was just this code with no timing codes I’d say you had a bad PCV or maybe a vacuum leak but check this link out.
http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/16556/P0172/000370

It looks like you should have the car checked to see if it’s cam timing tensioner and chain time. If you have oil in your N205 connector you should replace that but it might not be the end of it.Thanks for the reply! I'm gonna poke around today and look for any visible hose leaks and such. I'll clean the maf too and try to start it with it unplugged to see if it makes a difference. I added some new displays to torque to check the maf and afr but I'm not entirely sure what sort of numbers to look for.

Someone just offered a n205 on the classifieds so I'll pick that up and at least knock one of those codes out

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[Theiceman]

how many miles on the car ??? if you are in the 170k range id be think about that timing chain regardless.. Sluggishness and rough idle is not a good sign, especially if around that mileage and in my mind failure could be around the corner. if your oil pressure light comes on turn off car immediately as it means your tensioner gave way and is dumping pressure. As soon as the tensioner gives out you can skip timing and as you know its all bad from there.
Also if the car sounds kind of like a diesel with clicking at the back of the head its also an indicator with other symptoms that things are heading south.

Could just be the valve , but to be informed of all possibilities is good. Being in Buffalo sucks when your car does this at this time of year. I'm just North of you . they never seem to do this on a warm summers day

[2pointOh]

how many miles on the car ??? if you are in the 170k range id be think about that timing chain regardless.. Sluggishness and rough idle is not a good sign, especially if around that mileage and in my mind failure could be around the corner. if your oil pressure light comes on turn off car immediately as it means your tensioner gave way and is dumping pressure. As soon as the tensioner gives out you can skip timing and as you know its all bad from there.
Also if the car sounds kind of like a diesel with clicking at the back of the head its also an indicator with other symptoms that things are heading south.

Could just be the valve , but to be informed of all possibilities is good. Being in Buffalo sucks when your car does this at this time of year. I'm just North of you . they never seem to do this on a warm summers dayYeah man it always seems to be when it gets cold hahah. I'm approaching 180k so I guess that's not out of the realm of possibilities. It hasn't been sluggish at all until this popped up. I'll have to take a listen to the back of the engine and see if it sounds any louder than normal. If it is the chain and tensioner, how much should I expect to shell out for that?

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[2pointOh]

New development. Went to start it today and it was real rough till it stalled out. Tried with the maf unplugged and it seemed the same. This may be an untrained sense, but it kinda smelled like there was gas on the dipstick when I checked to make sure it was seated properly?

Anyway, I decided to clear the codes with torque and start the car again.. and it ran fine... so how the hell does that work?

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[canadianA4B7]

Change that N205 before you have more troubles. Mine did same thing few months ago and had oil on connector.

[2pointOh]

Change that N205 before you have more troubles. Mine did same thing few months ago and had oil on connector.Will do! Buying one off the forums now. Luckily I don't have to use the car much over the next week with the holiday and going out of town.

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[2pointOh]

Change that N205 before you have more troubles. Mine did same thing few months ago and had oil on connector.Sorry, on second read, you had the same symptoms going on as I do?

Also, another update. Car still isn't idling right while cold. I think clearing the codes was just a fluke, as the car had warmed up at that point. On a cold start, under power it's very jerky till it smooths out after a minute.

If the car when warm is running better (not perfect, still doesn't feel as smooth but I know my n205 is bad) that should mean the O2 sensors are fine right? Since when its closed loop it seems okay.

What part(s) would cause a rough idle on cold start? I'm just not sure what's responsible for the fuel mix at that point.

I'll try to drive one my parents cars if available when I can until this n205 is replaced.

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[canadianA4B7]

Similar symptoms mine wud be slightly jerky/hesitant on take off. Once I was above 2500 rpm it did smooth out but it was not running correct. The N205 must be in good working order to correctly detect cams/tension on chain or whatever it’s supposed to be detecting. If not you have the problems you have. At first I had thought it was cam sensor so I changed that on the front of engine no avail.

[2pointOh]

Similar symptoms mine wud be slightly jerky/hesitant on take off. Once I was above 2500 rpm it did smooth out but it was not running correct. The N205 must be in good working order to correctly detect cams/tension on chain or whatever it’s supposed to be detecting. If not you have the problems you have. At first I had thought it was cam sensor so I changed that on the front of engine no avail.Ah gotcha. So not the rough idle and such?

And I had to replace that sensor over the summer when that took a crap too hahah

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[canadianA4B7]

Mines has a bit more idle then most and with cam it’s a bit different sounding as well. So it could have been a bit rough idle. What I noticed most was as I described on take off it was a bit hesitant/rough.

[2pointOh]

Mines has a bit more idle then most and with cam it’s a bit different sounding as well. So it could have been a bit rough idle. What I noticed most was as I described on take off it was a bit hesitant/rough.Gotcha. Well that at least explains that part of it for me! My cold start idle is rough rough, to the point of stalling if I don't give it gas.

Has this forum kind of died a bit? I've been away for a while because my car is modded to as far as I'll go hahah, but it seems like a lot of the regulars I remember aren't around!

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[Theiceman]

Jerkiness when cold could be a multitude of things . Likely you have misfire codes stored and that could be anything , everything from fuel delivery to cam advance to cracked coils. Could be literally anything, espcecially with cold enrichment kicking in. I was actually thinking of going 0w40 from 5w40 for the winter. Car sounded like a bag of hammers starting this morning at -14C, ( there is no real detent to stop the tensioner from collapsing overnight lik eon the B8 ) so takes a second or two for the oil to get there . Once it started and warmed up she stopped complaining though . I think in general though as our cars get older ( like me ) they will complain more in colder weather.

at 180 I think I would be putting tensioner and chain on my list . My local quoted me about 500 CAD to do chain and tensioner but I just did it myself as my chain snapped on a cold start last February in -15C weather. I was lucky not to bend any valves ( 170k ) .
I ended up replacing tensioner, chain rear housing ( wreckers 40 bucks due to vacuum pump thread stripped on previous repair ) . oil control rings 75 bucks, exhaust cam poly bolt 5 bucks.
I don't recommend this repair yourself unless you are a knowledable DIY guy but just giving you an idea of the job.

[2pointOh]

Jerkiness when cold could be a multitude of things . Likely you have misfire codes stored and that could be anything , everything from fuel delivery to cam advance to cracked coils. Could be literally anything, espcecially with cold enrichment kicking in. I was actually thinking of going 0w40 from 5w40 for the winter. Car sounded like a bag of hammers starting this morning at -14C, ( there is no real detent to stop the tensioner from collapsing overnight lik eon the B8 ) so takes a second or two for the oil to get there . Once it started and warmed up she stopped complaining though . I think in general though as our cars get older ( like me ) they will complain more in colder weather.

at 180 I think I would be putting tensioner and chain on my list . My local quoted me about 500 CAD to do chain and tensioner but I just did it myself as my chain snapped on a cold start last February in -15C weather. I was lucky not to bend any valves ( 170k ) .
I ended up replacing tensioner, chain rear housing ( wreckers 40 bucks due to vacuum pump thread stripped on previous repair ) . oil control rings 75 bucks, exhaust cam poly bolt 5 bucks.
I don't recommend this repair yourself unless you are a knowledable DIY guy but just giving you an idea of the job.That's a lot of good info, thanks! If there is misfire codes, torque would be picking those up wouldn't it? That's the odd thing to me, it's only a p0172 code (and the p000a/p0011 from the n205). And yeah as far as that goes, I'd let a shop do it if it comes to that. I've done some DIY stuff but nothing too major like that would be hahah.

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[Theiceman]

That's a lot of good info, thanks! If there is misfire codes, torque would be picking those up wouldn't it? That's the odd thing to me, it's only a p0172 code (and the p000a/p0011 from the n205). And yeah as far as that goes, I'd let a shop do it if it comes to that. I've done some DIY stuff but nothing too major like that would be hahah.

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yeah you are right its likely due to wrong cam advancement... but id be just nervous blaming everything on that N205 with your higher miles. Id keep a close eye on it . if it hiccups again with the new N205 I wouldn't think twice about pulling the trigger on that tensioner.

[2pointOh]

yeah you are right its likely due to wrong cam advancement... but id be just nervous blaming everything on that N205 with your higher miles. Id keep a close eye on it . if it hiccups again with the new N205 I wouldn't think twice about pulling the trigger on that tensioner.For sure. If the n205 doesn't fix it and it's not the maf or anything, I'm driving to my shop and dropping it off for a diagnosis. Too cold for me to be poking around and such hahah

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[2pointOh]

So I replaced the n205 and it seemed to fix the issue. Then after a quick drive, a slightly rough idle came back with a pending p0172. Figured I could drive to work with that, the cel for the p0172 came up while on the way. Then.. oil pressure light. Pulled onto a side street immediately, and turned it off. Tried to turn it over once just to see and it didn't want to so I stopped.

Fuck.

Tensioner just went I'm assuming?

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[Theiceman]

gee if only someone had warned you about that :)

yep , do not even attempt to start that car until they check that tensioner. likely top came off dumped oil pressure. if you are lucky you did not jump a tooth on the chain. you may have buggered it trying to restart it if your tensioner was off and your chain snapped. as soon as you see oil pressure light dip clutch , turn off engine and let it roll to a stop.

Let us know what they find.

[2pointOh]

gee if only someone had warned you about that :)

yep , do not even attempt to start that car until they check that tensioner. likely top came off dumped oil pressure. if you are lucky you did not jump a tooth on the chain.Hahah I know I know, as soon as I saw it I was like shit he was spot on. Dealer is looking at it Monday hopefully. If it didn't skip timing, how bad is the fix?

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[Theiceman]

will if you took it to a stealer it will be bad ...
if I am right and its just tensioner it is tensioner, chain , gaskets , oil control rings, maybe phase adjuster as they wont fix it .. 1G maybe ? I'm not sure what US dealer rates are here they are crazy

if the chain snapped or you didn't shut it down in time and you hammered the valves . then car is practically a write off at dealer rates..

if first thing they do is try to start it without turning the crank a little and seeing if both cams are moving it could be bad news.

There is one more remote possibility it could be but I don't want to scare you .... if the oil pump seized or that balance shaft started to sieze ( more common ) then your oil pressure would have been low , so low it could not advance your cams as necessary via N205 ( its done with oil pressure ), then eventually your oil pressure light would come on .

Here is a thread on my experience which I think echoes your symptoms.

https://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/799563-and-thats-all-she-wrote?highlight=that%27s+wrote

[2pointOh]

Oh man. Yeah to be honest, ditching the car at this point is definitely in the realm of possibility. I had to leave the car and get to work so my dad chose to take it to the dealer. If anything, I can get the diagnostic done there and if I want to fix it, tow it to the shop I've dealt with before for less.

But at this point.. anything over $500 starts to look like dead money in this car

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[Theiceman]

Man I'm sorry to hear that what year is it , how many miles on the car ?

An independent should be able to fix it up at a reasonable cost , don't give up on it !!!

its our Northern Winters though , makes it so you will give up on cars early. Mine died last February .. it was bloody freezing out ...

[2pointOh]

Man I'm sorry to hear that what year is it , how many miles on the car ?

An independent should be able to fix it up at a reasonable cost , don't give up on it !!!

its our Northern Winters though , makes it so you will give up on cars early. Mine died last February .. it was bloody freezing out ...Yeah man. And it's not even too cold yet hahah. 06, 179,947 miles.

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[Theiceman]

yup that is within 10K of the mileage my tensioner gave out on my 06. Must be the extra forces put on the car from the extra HP of the "Red T" cars :)

PS if you scrap it out I need a set of floor mats lol

[2pointOh]

yup that is within 10K of the mileage my tensioner gave out on my 06. Must be the extra forces put on the car from the extra HP of the "Red T" cars :)

PS if you scrap it out I need a set of floor mats lolHahah exactly. And I've been tuned since 120k give or take.

And heard! I have a set of black weathertechs too haha

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[EvolutionArmory]

You should have followed the advice in post 2 and got the valve timing checked when the code first came up. It could have made this potentially a much less expensive repair.

[2pointOh]

You should have followed the advice in post 2 and got the valve timing checked when the code first came up. It could have made this potentially a much less expensive repair.You're right, hindsights 20/20 haha. It just seemed there were some other easy things I could try first. But to be honest, from the time I posted, I only drove the car maybe 4 miles. It would have died on the way to my shop.

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[audiglenn]

For sure. If the n205 doesn't fix it and it's not the maf or anything, I'm driving to my shop and dropping it off for a diagnosis. Too cold for me to be poking around and such hahah

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Make sure the shop tests oil pressure. I was experiencing the same issues. My oil pump seized and I had to replace it along with a new chain tensioner. Most challenging task is is dropping and removing the oil pan. Although I have to fill the car with oil close to the full mark, I am no longer getting the P0011 code. Good luck.

[jason96r]

Same thing happened to my problem child. Ended up just going with new engine. If you're done I'm sure you have parts people will buy to offset. I'm watching for one you have in your sig

[2pointOh]

Same thing happened to my problem child. Ended up just going with new engine. If you're done I'm sure you have parts people will buy to offset. I'm watching for one you have in your sig

Theres a good chance that'll happen haha. What are you looking for? I'm not sure how much I'll be able to pull with the weather and "trading it in" if it comes to that

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[2pointOh]

Make sure the shop tests oil pressure. I was experiencing the same issues. My oil pump seized and I had to replace it along with a new chain tensioner. Most challenging task is is dropping and removing the oil pan. Although I have to fill the car with oil close to the full mark, I am no longer getting the P0011 code. Good luck.Ah man if it comes to a pump I'll have to give her up

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[Theiceman]

You have not heard yet ??


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[tloft4]

You have not heard yet ??


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its a weekend also..

[2pointOh]

You have not heard yet ??


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its a weekend also..Yeah, tomorrow most likely. Maybe Tuesday.

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[2pointOh]

So now the dealership is being weird. Got a call (finally) on friday. She tells me there's a code for running rich (no shit) and a code for the maf. And that's about all she said. So I then tell her if the maf is throwing a code that could be why it's running rich, and I ask about the oil pressure light and if any timing-related issues are present. She says no. So I ask if they can look into the oil situation because I can't just drive it without knowing why that came on. (She at that point said intermittent lights can be solved with a couple oil changes, like.. what..)

Get another call Saturday. Because it's running rough they can't get it to operating temp to monitor the oil. I ask if the tech cleaned the maf to see if that helps, she said no because she doesn't "want to run up the bill with guessing" and tells me they're having trouble diagnosing the issue because I have a test pipe with the lower o2 spacer and the computer can't figure anything out.

I'm like.. dumbfounded. It seems as though they don't even want my money. I guess I'm gonna go tomorrow and talk to someone, and clean the maf myself and see.

I guess the sorta good news is when they drove it into the shop (which also infuriates me because I told them the oil pressure light came on, why would they drive it?!) no warning came on besides the cel for running rich. Im not entirely sure what to do next

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[Theiceman]

Tough call.


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[2pointOh]

Tough call.


Sent from my iPhone using Audizine (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=87676)It's just so strange they're not coming up with anything to try to move forward haha. Like tell me you have to rip the engine open, shit, something. If tomorrow doesn't get more productive I'm getting it towed somewhere else

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[2pointOh]

Next update. Cleaned the maf and didn't seem to help. Ran rough when started, I cleared the codes again and it ran more or less fine on cold start. Once it started to heat up and go towards closed loop A/F, it started running rougher again.

So now is this looking like an O2 problem that my tuning isn't throwing a code for? I'm gonna put a call into JHM and ask if that makes sense. Torque did show the O2 status as incomplete.

I idled for 20 mins carefully with no oil pressure light, so that's a bit of a mystery too.



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[Theiceman]

could the oil pressure light have been from car stalling out ? not enough idle to run oil pump ? you did say it came on after car was running really rough

[2pointOh]

could the oil pressure light have been from car stalling out ? not enough idle to run oil pump ? you did say it came on after car was running really roughHm that definitely could be. Good thinking. It came on when I was driving though, after the car seemed to lurch once the cel for the p0172 came on. I guess at this point I need to figure out the running rich problem, and then see if the oil pressure light even comes back. I'll definitely get an oil change too, just to cover my bases.

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[2pointOh]

So JHM said if there was a failing O2 sensor I should still get a code for it, all the tuning does is take the catalyst efficiency code away. Regardless, I'm still suspecting the O2s, is there any way I can test them to see if one is faulty?

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[Theiceman]

vcds will tell you if they are aging ... I'm not sure how , but I know they can.

[EvolutionArmory]

Now this is just my opinion but I really think you’re focusing on the far less serious fault code. The P000A code is what you should be focusing on. The code means that there is a slow response of the intake cam position. This can be sensor related or could be caused by the cam adjuster or a few other things. You REALLY need to get cam timing checked or get your chain tensioner checked at minimum. Something isn’t right in that department. Either with the chain, tensioner, adjuster or something far more serious. Oil pressure would be my biggest concern. Have you checked the condition of your oil filter, is it collapsed? Something caused that oil pressure code and since cam timing is all oil pressure driven, that is your biggest concern. Collapsed filter, clogged oil passages for the VVT system or failing oil pump would be the 3 biggest things I would want to eliminate.

Stop focusing on MAFs and O2 sensors and rule out those serious potential issues first.

http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g309/zeddirte/37373E05-BEC2-4D6A-8645-6FF8283CDF16.png (http://s59.photobucket.com/user/zeddirte/media/37373E05-BEC2-4D6A-8645-6FF8283CDF16.png.html)

[2pointOh]

Now this is just my opinion but I really think you’re focusing on the far less serious fault code. The P000A code is what you should be focusing on. The code means that there is a slow response of the intake cam position. This can be sensor related or could be caused by the cam adjuster or a few other things. You REALLY need to get cam timing checked or get your chain tensioner checked at minimum. Something isn’t right in that department. Either with the chain, tensioner, adjuster or something far more serious. Oil pressure would be my biggest concern. Have you checked the condition of your oil filter, is it collapsed? Something caused that oil pressure code and since cam timing is all oil pressure driven, that is your biggest concern. Collapsed filter, clogged oil passages for the VVT system or failing oil pump would be the 3 biggest things I would want to eliminate.

Stop focusing on MAFs and O2 sensors and rule out those serious potential issues first.

http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g309/zeddirte/37373E05-BEC2-4D6A-8645-6FF8283CDF16.png (http://s59.photobucket.com/user/zeddirte/media/37373E05-BEC2-4D6A-8645-6FF8283CDF16.png.html)I think the p000a was related to my n205 being dead. Oil in the connector, I replaced that and haven't seen the code back but I also haven't driven it far enough to really know. The dealer was telling me to figure out why it was running rich, but I went to a different better indy shop and they're doing a pressure test and such.

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[EvolutionArmory]

Good. The N205 could have very well been the end of that code and I hope it is. Getting oil pressure readings will definitely give you peace of mind and if you continue to get fuel trim codes after that, by all means go after those next. But be sure you have completely ruled out cam timing/oil pressure issues first.

If your Indy shop has VCDS I’d ask them to check cam phaser position. 28 degrees is spec. If it’s off then you might have chain stretch or maybe some other adjuster/tensioner issue. If it’s good have them clear fuel trim stored info and drive it a few days and check it again. Your short and long term fuel trim data can tell you a lot. Ross Tech has a very good article about understanding fuel trim data.

[Theiceman]

just for some additional info ... just about every B7 I have looked at with higher mileage has oil coming from that N205 connector. Although dry is good , having oil in the connector does not automatically doom it.

[2pointOh]

So word from the shop is that, in his words, the engine is "hurt." He said it's holding 8 psi oil pressure at idle, going up a bit with gas. In his opinion, he said short of throwing a new engine in it's just not worth going after, considering the miles and what it could be.

He's been in the business a long time and is one of the best German shops around so I respect his opinion. This sucks.

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[Theiceman]

yeah too bad, he is of course correct and paying a guy to do the work you will buy the car again fast. But im sure you might have guys pop on here trying to buy the car to do the work.

even just checking to see what it could be could cost a fair bit. Sorry to hear this

you tried the stupid stuff like replacing the filter right ?

[2pointOh]

yeah too bad, he is of course correct and paying a guy to do the work you will buy the car again fast. But im sure you might have guys pop on here trying to buy the car to do the work.

even just checking to see what it could be could cost a fair bit. Sorry to hear this

you tried the stupid stuff like replacing the filter right ?I'll call back and confirm, since I was half-asleep when I talked to him haha, but he knows his shit and I don't think he would have let something like that slip by him.

The shittiest thing about it is I don't have the time or down payment cash laying around to get most of the performance parts back :( and it's fucking cold! If anyone is interested in buying it, lemme know.

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[2pointOh]

Checked the filter and housing, all was fine. Some metal tracings in the oil though, confirming what they were saying. I guess it's just time to move on. Might end up in a Lexus for a bit, there's no good Audi's to buy currently in the area

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[EvolutionArmory]

Checked the filter and housing, all was fine. Some metal tracings in the oil though, confirming what they were saying. I guess it's just time to move on. Might end up in a Lexus for a bit, there's no good Audi's to buy currently in the area

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Those flakes could be from an old cam follower or worse, a worn balance shaft or other more serious problems. I’d say drop the pan, inspect the oil pump and make a decision to fix it or move on based on what you find.

[2pointOh]

Those flakes could be from an old cam follower or worse, a worn balance shaft or other more serious problems. I’d say drop the pan, inspect the oil pump and make a decision to fix it or move on based on what you find.I'm not sure if I should keep throwing money into diagnosing it. He really seems confident that I should let it go, based on what he saw during testing on Monday. Even if it's the oil pump, that's like a $1000 part right? Like you'd think if there was sensible work to be done, they'd be going after it to make money.

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[Theiceman]

yeah I feel your pain .. when my cam chain snapped earlier this year the guy at the shop told me to forget it . Engine would not be worth fixing. I of course revived it , but he was right . At his labour rates I would have been into it over a grand for a car that had 180K on it with no guarantees. I took a chance and fixed it in my driveway in February, 10 minute snippets at a time so my hands would not freeze and my fingers would not fall off. .
if its your daily and you need to get into a car you can drive its tough . For me it was a second car so I could let it sit for a month while I fix it.

This sucks donkey balls.

you could part it out If you had the time and space to do that, if I had the space I would take it off your hands as I love the B7.

[EvolutionArmory]

The pump is 1600 and probably 400 to install it. If it were mine I’d want to know if it is the oil pump causing it because going that far, what’s another small labor charge to diagnose and be able to make a much more informed decision.

If you trust the guy, then take his word for it. It really sucks that the issue was engine/oil related after all. Maybe moving on is really the best option at this point for you.

[2pointOh]

yeah I feel your pain .. when my cam chain snapped earlier this year the guy at the shop told me to forget it . Engine would not be worth fixing. I of course revived it , but he was right . At his labour rates I would have been into it over a grand for a car that had 180K on it with no guarantees. I took a chance and fixed it in my driveway in February, 10 minute snippets at a time so my hands would not freeze and my fingers would not fall off. .
if its your daily and you need to get into a car you can drive its tough . For me it was a second car so I could let it sit for a month while I fix it.

This sucks donkey balls.

you could part it out If you had the time and space to do that, if I had the space I would take it off your hands as I love the B7.Yeah it's my only car :( I wish I could part out or keep it somewhere but I'll need the trade in to help keep a monthly low. Hoping I get accepted into my program, I won't have a job for the next 3 years so it severely limits my car budget hahah. So I'll pretty much try to take whatever I can off in a hurry and just.. bite the bullet. Sucks so much to think of it.

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[2pointOh]

The pump is 1600 and probably 400 to install it. If it were mine I’d want to know if it is the oil pump causing it because going that far, what’s another small labor charge to diagnose and be able to make a much more informed decision.

If you trust the guy, then take his word for it. It really sucks that the issue was engine/oil related after all. Maybe moving on is really the best option at this point for you.Yeah he's got the best German tuning shop in the area. He knows his stuff. And right? Running rich was one thing once the n205 was fixed, as soon as I saw oil pressure I knew I was in deep shit.

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