Lpfp logging question.

[dalmation53]

So my car was perfectly fine boosting perfectly and running like a champ before putting in gas from Wawa gas station. Then took the highway going 80mph chilling so i didn't noticed the power loss. Once i got to city driving car felt sluggish with no power. So i did a full throttle to see and bam check engine light. With no power. Like in limp mode. Pulled over and scanned it and got this codes.
Car ran like total shit that day. So it got near empty before that i was getting full boost but seemed like it lagged fuel. Like fuel cuts in the WOT. So i'm scratching my head because now i put more gas in it full tank from racetrac and it seems like its fine for now kind of. Is my lpfp going out on me or was it shit gas then my knock sensor came as a code? Car has 173k miles so if i need a new lpfp that is totally fine an can put a new one in just don't want to put it if it's fine. I forgot how to log it i did it before. 85750

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[dalmation53]

Oh great no one knows amazing.

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[All_Black_A4]

Oh great no one knows amazing.

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Did you read this by any chance?

http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/18609/P2177/008567

Also found this old thread. Might help. Might not [:D]

https://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/663236-p2177-code-that-keeps-coming-back

If all else fails you can just throw some parts at it and hope it works [:D] [:p]

[dalmation53]

Did you read this by any chance?

http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/18609/P2177/008567

Also found this old thread. Might help. Might not [:D]

https://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/663236-p2177-code-that-keeps-coming-back

If all else fails you can just throw some parts at it and hope it works [:D] [:p]Haha i read the second thread you mentioned not the ross tech one. But i forgot how to log the lpfp. To get to that i need help on where is supposed to be like the bar.

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[dalmation53]

So looks like i'm not getting full boost to lack of fuel. It boost fine but looses power like fuel cuts this are my logs can some one confirm if i need a new lpfp! 8580685807

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[EvolutionArmory]

What is your LPFP duty cycle at idle. Block 106.2.

Should be at 50% at idle with the car at operating temp. If it’s 60% or higher, you probably need a new low pressure pump.

If you have over 50% at idle, change your pump. If you have 50% or under at idle, your low pump is probably fine and you should log blocks 230 and 231. These give you your HPFP data and fuel rail pressure actual VS requested.

And for the love of God, get VCDS. That app is so limiting. 😀

[EvolutionArmory]

And your 231 “log” says that actual is meeting requested but there is no other info. Doesn’t say for how long and at what RPM’s.

A proper VCDS log would tell us a lot more. All your screen shot tells us is that your car met requested PSI for at least one sample.

[EvolutionArmory]

Here’s what a proper fuel pressure log should look like. See how actual pressure compares to specfied? The percentage is pretty close. This log was taken before I added the RS4 PRV so my data might be different now.

http://i1038.photobucket.com/albums/a461/1030dave/48F255FB-E4E9-4B83-AB83-D8C37C03E3F5_zpspca1u9wa.png (http://s1038.photobucket.com/user/1030dave/media/48F255FB-E4E9-4B83-AB83-D8C37C03E3F5_zpspca1u9wa.png.html)

[dalmation53]

What is your LPFP duty cycle at idle. Block 106.2.

Should be at 50% at idle with the car at operating temp. If it’s 60% or higher, you probably need a new low pressure pump.

If you have over 50% at idle, change your pump. If you have 50% or under at idle, your low pump is probably fine and you should log blocks 230 and 231. These give you your HPFP data and fuel rail pressure actual VS requested.

And for the love of God, get VCDS. That app is so limiting. [emoji3]Is not limiting. I have the Pro version. You see on top of it is for logging? I just didn't know how to log it so i needed someone like you to tell me what to do lol thanks Man when i get home ill log it and see whats up.

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[Theiceman]

Here’s what a proper fuel pressure log should look like. See how actual pressure compares to specfied? The percentage is pretty close. This log was taken before I added the RS4 PRV so my data might be different now.

http://i1038.photobucket.com/albums/a461/1030dave/48F255FB-E4E9-4B83-AB83-D8C37C03E3F5_zpspca1u9wa.png (http://s1038.photobucket.com/user/1030dave/media/48F255FB-E4E9-4B83-AB83-D8C37C03E3F5_zpspca1u9wa.png.html)

So what is theory on duty cycle ? Is the car trying to maintain a fuel rail pressure and turning on the pump to try and maintain ? The less efficient the pump is at ages the longer it has to run ?
Is this all measured before the hpfp ?
Just wondering


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[EvolutionArmory]

Basically, if the low pressure pump can’t supply the right amount of fuel, the issues are probably going to manifest itself on the high pressure side because the high side can’t pull the right amount if the low side can’t push the right amount.

It’s always best to start fuel pressure diagnosis with the low side first. At least that’s been my experience. If your in tank fuel pump is struggling to supply fuel, none of the other components are going to perform as designed.

And duty cycle at idle tells you right away if your LPFP is able to keep up. If it’s working at 70% at idle, how hard do you think it’s working at WOT? 😀

[dalmation53]

Basically, if the low pressure pump can’t supply the right amount of fuel, the issues are probably going to manifest itself on the high pressure side because the high side can’t pull the right amount if the low side can’t push the right amount.

It’s always best to start fuel pressure diagnosis with the low side first. At least that’s been my experience. If your in tank fuel pump is struggling to supply fuel, none of the other components are going to perform as designed.

And duty cycle at idle tells you right away if your LPFP is able to keep up. If it’s working at 70% at idle, how hard do you think it’s working at WOT? [emoji3]You see? I need your help so i just dont replace parts that way you wont get mad at me lol i will log it and see. I honestly want my lpfp to be bad because it seems like it wants to boost but not enough fuel. If that's my problem i'm fine with it.

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[dalmation53]

This is block 106?
85927

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[EvolutionArmory]

What’s the percentage in box 2 at idle?

[dalmation53]

What’s the percentage in box 2 at idle?Damn man you got me there how do i access box 2?

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[dalmation53]

I'm getting very upset that i'm so close to finding out my problem and don't know how to access box 2 [emoji34][emoji34][emoji34][emoji34][emoji34]

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[Theiceman]

Maybe you need pro ”+” version ?


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[dalmation53]

Maybe you need pro ”+” version ?


Sent from my iPhone using Audizine (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=87676)I do have the pro version man is just getting me upset that i can't find it and i really need to know or again i'm just gonna throw in an lpfp and fock it.

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[EvolutionArmory]

Block 106, value 2 is duty cycle.

http://i1038.photobucket.com/albums/a461/1030dave/3E17C4C9-0B58-45B1-A5A3-7375420CBF2D_zpsp8jsdstc.jpg (http://s1038.photobucket.com/user/1030dave/media/3E17C4C9-0B58-45B1-A5A3-7375420CBF2D_zpsp8jsdstc.jpg.html)

If you really want to graduate from parts swapper to diagnosticator, you really should get VCDS. The lesser apps really don’t compare.

Yours shows zero %. Was the car running? Or maybe your app simply can’t access that info? I can’t say because I only use VCDS.

[dalmation53]

Block 106, value 2 is duty cycle.

http://i1038.photobucket.com/albums/a461/1030dave/3E17C4C9-0B58-45B1-A5A3-7375420CBF2D_zpsp8jsdstc.jpg (http://s1038.photobucket.com/user/1030dave/media/3E17C4C9-0B58-45B1-A5A3-7375420CBF2D_zpsp8jsdstc.jpg.html)

If you really want to graduate from parts swapper to diagnosticator, you really should get VCDS. The lesser apps really don’t compare.

Yours shows zero %. Was the car running? Or maybe your app simply can’t access that info? I can’t say because I only use VCDS.Yes it was a operating temperature and idle. I checked on my buddys b7 with a good fuel pump abd shows zero % as well. I guess is the app. I will get vcds for 3 vins since i only i use it on my car. So i know how to do it in vcds now if i had it but since i don't i bought an lpfp from europaparts for $100 since i was going to change it anyways. So once i get it installed i'll report back this weekend. Thanks for your help though. And the name part changer.. I love it [emoji16]

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[AudiKilla]

It's a bug in OBDeleven, you won't be able to see the duty cycle. Used to work properly before, they need to fix the bug.

Click the icon at the top right corner to graph the values. Log your high pressure and low pressure, when I logged I think it was:

HPFP - Block 230 - actual vs requested fuel rail pressure
LPFP - Block 231 - duty cycle won't work because of the bug so work with the actual value

Do your logs in 3rd gear and email yourself the results in .csv format. Then drag and drop the .csv file on to "malonetuning.com" website and it should turn it into a graph for you.

My LPFP was okay but the HPFP would drop from 130bar to 50bar under WOT, replaced it with JHM HPFP and now it's running properly.

[dalmation53]

It's a bug in OBDeleven, you won't be able to see the duty cycle. Used to work properly before, they need to fix the bug.

Click the icon at the top right corner to graph the values. Log your high pressure and low pressure, when I logged I think it was:

HPFP - Block 230 - actual vs requested fuel rail pressure
LPFP - Block 231 - duty cycle won't work because of the bug so work with the actual value

Do your logs in 3rd gear and email yourself the results in .csv format. Then drag and drop the .csv file on to "malonetuning.com" website and it should turn it into a graph for you.

My LPFP was okay but the HPFP would drop from 130bar to 50bar under WOT, replaced it with JHM HPFP and now it's running properly.You know now that you mentioned it i think you are right. I think i logged it before. You are right it is a bug in obd11

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[AndriyT]

is the power loss experienced through the full rpm range or in certain ranges?

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[AndriyT]

see if your intake pipe properly connected to the manifold because if you get a crack and even tiny bit of air leak it will cause this issue

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[dalmation53]

see if your intake pipe properly connected to the manifold because if you get a crack and even tiny bit of air leak it will cause this issue

Sent from my SM-A520W using Audizine mobile app (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=87676)No is not air related. Is fuel related. I doesn't happend all the time. Plus i got that cel for low fuel pressure regulator. It's fuel cuts. But the power is there. First time it happen the car was in limp mode. After i shut it off for 3 hours and went for a drive no more limp mode.

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[AndriyT]

if its fuel related then its air related and that error code means that the ratio of fuel to air ratio is incorrectly mixed hense rich ratio. but bad part is that that error can be driven by soooo many issues even down to the gas pedal.
another thing to check is your throttle valve body for dirt or residue because could be that your flaps dont open/close properly in sync with throttle signal which also results in error for bad ratio

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[EvolutionArmory]

Your lean code very well could be MAF, O2 or intake/exhaust leak related but since you have a fuel pressure code on top of it, ruling out or fixing any fuel pump related codes first seems like the best thing to do.

It’s too bad 106 has a bug. It would definitely help tell you where to start.

If you look at my reading of 50.6 bar on a 2 month old low pump (733 PSI) compared to your reading of 710 PSI or under 50 bar, your pressure is lower than mine. The question is if 23 psi is enough to cause a problem. That deficit will most likely be greater at WOT.

[dalmation53]

Your lean code very well could be MAF, O2 or intake/exhaust leak related but since you have a fuel pressure code on top of it, ruling out or fixing any fuel pump related codes first seems like the best thing to do.

It’s too bad 106 has a bug. It would definitely help tell you where to start.

If you look at my reading of 50.6 bar on a 2 month old low pump (733 PSI) compared to your reading of 710 PSI or under 50 bar, your pressure is lower than mine. The question is if 23 psi is enough to cause a problem. That deficit will most likely be greater at WOT.Yes you are correct about the lean code. I erased it 2 days ago and came back today again. Before the code came the car was sluggish. Right after i erased it the car ran fine again lol. So heres the new oem pump. Waiting to burn more gas so i can do the job on an almost empty fuel 86211

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[EvolutionArmory]

It’s a super easy job with only a few things that might trip you up.

The “quick” disconnect lines on top of the fuel pump suck to remove. Take your time. Press them down, squeeze the tabs and pull them up.

Put lots of rags around the port to catch fuel.

Before you undo the sealing ring, mark it with a sharpie so you’ll know how far to tighten it when you put it back together.

Clean the fuel pump port REAL well after you take the old pump out

Don’t get the new rubber seal wet with fuel. Fuel makes the seal expand and you won’t get a tight seal.

Make sure you push the crinkle hose inside the fuel tank all the way into the fuel pump.

Make sure nothing stops the fuel level sender from moving when you line up the top of the pump and the lower part of the pump and seal it.

Adapt your new fuel pump with your OBD Eleven.

Run the EVAP test to check for leaks.

Fill up your tank with the seat off so you can spot a leak before it makes a huge mess.

Good luck

[EvolutionArmory]

Oh, does your new fuel pump have 3 hose nipples? If it does, did you buy the cap for it?

There used to be 2 types of pumps but Audi decided to get rid of the one that has 2 nipples. If you have 3 you need to cap one off.

[dalmation53]

Oh, does your new fuel pump have 3 hose nipples? If it does, did you buy the cap for it?

There used to be 2 types of pumps but Audi decided to get rid of the one that has 2 nipples. If you have 3 you need to cap one off.Looks like there is 3 nipples but one seems to be capped off with a green thing on the bottom look for yourself 8621986220

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[dalmation53]

So today i got to replace my lpfp and everything went fine. I don't get any more fuel cuts or limp mode. But for some reason my car feels sluggish slow. Like i don't feel the torque in any gear but it's moving. Does the lpfp need to adjust to my asshole driving? Do i need to disconnect the battery or just leave it alone?

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[EvolutionArmory]

I don’t know if it’s related to your problem but there is a fuel pump adaptation procedure in VCDS. Don’t rember the basic setting number because VCDS has a drop down menu that does it for me.

Ross Tech’s website will tell you the block number.

[dalmation53]

I don’t know if it’s related to your problem but there is a fuel pump adaptation procedure in VCDS. Don’t rember the basic setting number because VCDS has a drop down menu that does it for me.

Ross Tech’s website will tell you the block number.This one? 86815

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[EvolutionArmory]

Could be. Try it

[AudiKilla]

Mate, you need to log the high pressure and low pressure side. From there you can tell on which end the issue is and go from there.

I've done it with OBDEleven, no reason you can't do it either. You don't need to know the duty cycle, you can still work with the pressures.

There is no way throwing random parts at it is going to fix your issue. Your just increasing your repair cost.

[dalmation53]

Mate, you need to log the high pressure and low pressure side. From there you can tell on which end the issue is and go from there.

I've done it with OBDEleven, no reason you can't do it either. You don't need to know the duty cycle, you can still work with the pressures.

There is no way throwing random parts at it is going to fix your issue. Your just increasing your repair cost.Well my issue is fixed. Not getting the fuel cuts anymore. Just that it seems a little laggy. But i guess i give it couple of days to adapt. I thought there was a bug on obd11 for duty cycle?

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[dalmation53]

Update:

drove the car all day today and seems like the power is back. Don't know if the lpfp needs time to adapt or something but car is no longer sluggish and no more fuel cuts. At 173k miles i'm surprised the car didn't leave me stranded. [emoji108]

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[dalmation53]

Finally they fixed the obd11 bug. Checked my duty cycle and it was 50.1%. So guess thats good news.

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[EvolutionArmory]

Yes. 50% is good.

[dalmation53]

Yes. 50% is good.So problem is fixed for good. I checked my buddys b7 on idle it was 70% now his worried lol.

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[EvolutionArmory]

Yeah, his pump is on its way out.

[dalmation53]

Yeah, his pump is on its way out.Thanks for the clarification. Now i know how to properly diagnose this. [emoji108] / thread.

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[dalmation53]

Still getting the code system too lean off idle bank 1. Hm when it comes car is in limp mode. As soon as i clear the code car rides normal again. Could my maf be going out. Took this values 89002

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[EvolutionArmory]

http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/Fuel_Trim_Info

[EvolutionArmory]

A negative number in the first field could mean a vacuum leak since vacuum is highest at idle.

Out of spec second field readings could mean a bad MAF.

A good 3rd gear log of your MAF (003) could tell you something or you could look at your MAF readings at idle. A good MAF should read around 2.5-3.5 Gs. Anything much higher or much lower at idle may tell you something.

[EvolutionArmory]

What does the app tell you normal operating range of the second value should be? Does it do that?

Every time you reset your CEL, fuel trim info will go back to zero so if you really want to see what your fuel trim is really doing, clear the code and drive it for a couple days without clearing the code. Then look at your fuel trim data. Fuel trim data after 1 test drive after clearing the code won’t really tell you too much but a few days worth of data will be much more accurate.

[dalmation53]

A negative number in the first field could mean a vacuum leak since vacuum is highest at idle.

Out of spec second field readings could mean a bad MAF.

A good 3rd gear log of your MAF (003) could tell you something or you could look at your MAF readings at idle. A good MAF should read around 2.5-3.5 Gs. Anything much higher or much lower at idle may tell you something.Bro make a gofund me account so people can start paying you for the help lol. So my maf is bad since is negative? I'm tired of Limp mode. Doesn't happen all the time. Honestly if my maf is bad i van get one for cheap a working one my friend has. Or should i put it in an see what happens?

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[dalmation53]

This is what i have gathered so far. 8901889019

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[dalmation53]

Oppz diaregard that looks like i took a pic of the ross tech thing you sent me lol i guess i got it in a different site.

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[dalmation53]

Heres the group 003 a WOT in Limp mode and second gear. And i'm at sea level 89023

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[dalmation53]

At idle 89024

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[dalmation53]

Replaced pcv with a good spare one no change.
Disconnected maf no change. Wow this one is a tricky one.

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[EvolutionArmory]

Every time you post a “log” with OBD 11 it’s in the wrong format than standard. Put it in GS, not in pounds per minute.

I converted your PPM to GS. .52 PPM is 3.9 GS.

Your MAF is reading a little high if you compare it to other cars at idle if you search for the MAF values thread here. Most are about 2.5 at idle.

[EvolutionArmory]

And a screen shot of one frame of a WOT run tells us nothing.

Please buy VCDS. I’ll start a go fund me account for YOU so you’ll get one. Lol!!

[EvolutionArmory]

And parts swapping a free on hand spare part for diagnostic is a no brainer. Try it. If your MAF value at idle changes by a lot, you know your MAF could absolutely be addng to or causing your problem.

[dalmation53]

And parts swapping a free on hand spare part for diagnostic is a no brainer. Try it. If your MAF value at idle changes by a lot, you know your MAF could absolutely be addng to or causing your problem.Yeah and it crazy how with the maf disconnected is like nothing ever happened. Didnt run rough or nothing. My concern here is the limp mode. [emoji53] so if you say it's reading high that might be the culprit.

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[dalmation53]

If you have a Vag Com with software, you can log to see how much boost you are getting by logging (or simply looking at) block 115. This will list in mbar what you are actually boosting and what your ECU is requesting. But really, get a boost gauge.

Limp mode is a fail safe the engine's ECU will place you in if you are running lean, by limiting boost to 5psi. This will be controlled by your n75 valve, which is the stock boost control valve.

^ exactly my situation. Copy and paste what someone else said

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[EvolutionArmory]

It could be. Try that used one first and see if it reads any different. If not, start doing some digging.

If it were my car I’d start looking for vacuum leaks and exhaust leaks first to rule out the easy stuff. An exhaust leak at the cat can cause some odd behavior because of how close the O2 sensors are to the gaskets. O2 sensors basically verify the info the MAF sent and if there’s unmetered air coming in from a small leak, it can mess with your fuel trims.

A very small leak will ususly draw more air in. A larger leak will usually push more air out. Either situation can screw up O2 sensor readings.

[dalmation53]

It could be. Try that used one first and see if it reads any different. If not, start doing some digging.

If it were my car I’d start looking for vacuum leaks and exhaust leaks first to rule out the easy stuff. An exhaust leak at the cat can cause some odd behavior because of how close the O2 sensors are to the gaskets. O2 sensors basically verify the info the MAF sent and if there’s unmetered air coming in from a small leak, it can mess with your fuel trims.

A very small leak will ususly draw more air in. A larger leak will usually push more air out. Either situation can screw up O2 sensor readings.Right understand that part but if it was a leak it would be present at all times no. Like i said the car runs fine. Boost fine. No hesitation or shakes it smooth af. But once the code comes bam limp mode. And takes forever to get to speed. I will try the used working maf tomorrow its from a cvt mines a quattro doesn't matter right?

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[EvolutionArmory]

Nope. The MAF doesn’t give a shit. Should be the same part number.

[dalmation53]

Nope. The MAF doesn’t give a shit. Should be the same part number.Lol alright cool. I'll update tomorrow. Thanks man

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[dalmation53]

Hey armory this are my new values with a used low mileage maf 89367893688936989370

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[EvolutionArmory]

You really gotta change your readings from pounds per minute to grams per second. 😀

[EvolutionArmory]

Look at your MAF values at idle. You went from .52 PPM to .46 PPM. The new MAF made a noticeable difference at idle. But .46 PPM is still 3.5 G/S. It might still be a little high.

Clear your codes and drive it for a few days and see if your code comes back.

A lot of people say you should have 1 G/S for every liter of displacement at 500 RPM. Since our cars are 2.0’s at 500 we should have a reading of 2.0 G/S. Since our cars idle at about 750-800 RPM, our readings should be around 2.5-3 G/S at idle if that rule of thumb is true.

Your friends MAF might be better than yours but maybe not really good.

[dalmation53]

Look at your MAF values at idle. You went from .52 PPM to .46 PPM. The new MAF made a noticeable difference at idle. But .46 PPM is still 3.5 G/S. It might still be a little high.

Clear your codes and drive it for a few days and see if your code comes back.

A lot of people say you should have 1 G/S for every liter of displacement at 500 RPM. Since our cars are 2.0’s at 500 we should have a reading of 2.0 G/S. Since our cars idle at about 750-800 RPM, our readings should be around 2.5-3 G/S at idle if that rule of thumb is true.

Your friends MAF might be better than yours but maybe not really good.Hey man i don't know how to change the lbs per minute to seconds. How did you convert it so i can learn that as well? Well it was his spare maf he just gave it to me to keep since he had no use for it. But for some reason the car seemed to run better and i drove it today all day and no limp mode. Only time will tell to see if i dont get the system too lean off idle again. But atleast it did made a difference.

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[EvolutionArmory]

Well good. If it stays off maybe you should buy a new MAF. I’d like to see that number lower at idle. Elevation can change the readings some but I don’t see that being a problem in Florida. I’d expect a healthy MAF to be in the 2.5-3 G/S range.

You can convert almost any unit of measurement to something else usually just with Google. All I did was type “parts per minute to grams per second” in a browser window and some conversion site popped up.

[dalmation53]

Look at your MAF values at idle. You went from .52 PPM to .46 PPM. The new MAF made a noticeable difference at idle. But .46 PPM is still 3.5 G/S. It might still be a little high.

Clear your codes and drive it for a few days and see if your code comes back.

A lot of people say you should have 1 G/S for every liter of displacement at 500 RPM. Since our cars are 2.0’s at 500 we should have a reading of 2.0 G/S. Since our cars idle at about 750-800 RPM, our readings should be around 2.5-3 G/S at idle if that rule of thumb is true.

Your friends MAF might be better than yours but maybe not really good.I might hold up on the maf for now if this one is indeed working better. But yes i did the conversion myself. Thanks for teaching me something new i didn't know. Now i can diagnose the problem in the future.

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[dalmation53]

Update:
So is been a week with the new MAF and haven't thrown the car into limp mode and also the system too lean off idle has not come back. So i can say the MAF was the Problem.

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[Dondbg]

Yes. 50% is good.

How about 57% not too bad :) ?

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181027/086705006df8bbcdece0ab07fb18b11a.png

And this is at the rail

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181027/d083d64416f1607502291e350023c907.png

I have sometimes a “cough” if you will, I guess my fuel system is ok and have checked the maf and looks within the green range

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181027/7d507462be304855cf05dbd0140e9797.png

Sorry @dalmation if I hijacked your thread :)

[Dondbg]

Dump question, from “where” I can get all the channels definitions for all modules
I have learned from this thread about 106, 230 and 231.

Are those all of the channels in our cars: http://www.ross-tech.com/vag-com/m_blocks/


OBDeleven is good as it will replace the channel number with description which is really helpful.

[dalmation53]

Dump question, from I can get all the channels definitions for all modules
I have learned from this thread about 106, 230 and 231.

Are those all : http://www.ross-tech.com/vag-com/m_blocks/


OBDeleven is good as it will replace the channel number with description which is really helpful.Whats your question? You didn't ask anything?

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[Dondbg]

Whats your question? You didn't ask anything?

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Edited the original post, try now.

[dalmation53]

Edited the original post, try now.Oh i see yours at 57%. Well they say as long as is doesn't pass 60% your good.

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[BQuattro7]

I have a 2007 A4 B7 Quattro 2.0
Using OBD 11 and do not have duty cycle data for the LPFP. Since this was purchased a few months back I am wondering if it is a bug or 0.0% means that the pump is not running at all. It is maintaining LP between 4.5 and 5.1 bars. Was wondering how can there be LP if the pump is dead.
My car behaves just as you described. Limp mode one day and the other day fine but can not use it because when it acts up can get past 40mph so basically unsafe for highway use.

https://www.audizine.com/gallery/dat...0087_P310B.jpg

https://www.youtube.com/shorts/vUq0ttLHZW8

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BYuL4dOSoLs&t=15s

https://www.audizine.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=102237&title=p0087-p310b&cat=543

[Jayz691]

I have a 2007 A4 B7 Quattro 2.0
Using OBD 11 and do not have duty cycle data for the LPFP. Since this was purchased a few months back I am wondering if it is a bug or 0.0% means that the pump is not running at all. It is maintaining LP between 4.5 and 5.1 bars. Was wondering how can there be LP if the pump is dead.
My car behaves just as you described. Limp mode one day and the other day fine but can not use it because when it acts up can get past 40mph so basically unsafe for highway use.

https://www.audizine.com/gallery/dat...0087_P310B.jpg

https://www.youtube.com/shorts/vUq0ttLHZW8

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BYuL4dOSoLs&t=15sSee that all the time on the Apple version, its just not complete.. Some info is missing for whatever reason. Also, use block 230/231 for fuel pressures. More complete info.

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[Hupa]

I’m reading channel 106 with OBD11 from my B7 2.0tfsi. ”Electric fuel pump 1/2” is always 0% and nothing else. What dies this mean?

[Hupa]

Ahh… so it’s the f*cking iphone.. didn’t bother going through the whole thread. Sorry. 😁

[Jayz691]

Yeah, iOS version has missing data. Use an Android, and use 230/231 for fuel pressures.

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