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m70b1jr
08-22-2018, 07:18 AM
Hey guys! So I have some BT Questions i've been googling for a few days with no real solid answers, and I was hoping someone here can link me some good posts, or answer my questions.
So, I work at my best friend's dad's shop. His dad has a little personal storage area, and my friend actually told me he has a BT Turbo from a Jetta he parted out a while ago. Sure enough, it's a t3t4 Turbo (.50ar .63ar) with the downpipe, manifold, oil lines, external wastegate and dump pipe. near it he has a jetta intake manifold with the injectors on it, and jetta coil packs, so I can verify it was from a Jetta 1.8t. He told me he would give me anything I needed to install it on my car, and then we could work out a price (He said probably around $300) since it's just taking up space.

The mods I have on my car currently are

- 2.0T Coils
- 3" CAT Downpipe
- Straight piped
- FMIC
- Cone filter
- Custom NefMoto tune at 19psi

I don't know a lot about turbos, so here's the questions I have.
I talked to my tuner, and he said NOT to run a BOV or MBC / EBC. So where / how would I go about connecting the wastegate vacuum to the car? In reality, I'm not sure which questions I should ask, I just know what my tuner told me what I should and should't do. So if anyone can give me advice, info or link me to a decent guide, it would be greatly appreciated!

Seerlah
08-22-2018, 07:35 AM
From that jetta you should be able to run everything except the intake manifold. You can run that intake manifold, but would take decent effort to make the routing of the charge pipe work for it (not worth it when stock IM will be just fine for those power levels). Everything will be plug and play. You will see off the n75 valve there will be a line line for both the stock wastegate and charge pipe. These go back to the same places prospectively, but I would upgrade to silicone hose. Then you already run a diverter valve vs a blow off valve. Just upgrade to a more stout one. Cheapest one is of the Audi TT 225, but then aftermarket ones such as Bailey's, Forge Motorsports, etc can be used. Same routing as stock.

With that turbo it can grant 350whp which will blow your stock block. But it should be safe to run at 15-18psi (taking a guess, but your tuner should know safe levels). That boost will be controlled with the n75 if the tuner does not want you to run an mbc/ebc. Seems he would prefer to use the stock components to control boost via ECM/N75 vs your own boost controller. That turbo is laggy, but you will eventually learn the powerband and drive accordingly. You will need an upgraded clutch if manual, upgraded throttle inlet (ER makes the best one IMO, due to the adjustability), most likely larger MAF, and you are good to go. You will def want to consider supporting mods such as upgraded mounts and suspension (when you shift with more power to the engine, things rock much more with the added power). And make sure your fmic has enough cooling capacity for the t04e. If not, upgrade as necessary.

thedanplasse
08-22-2018, 07:36 AM
t3t4.63ar 50trim would work (with appropriate manifold/ downpipe). You'd run a TIP that you could run a dv to.

m70b1jr
08-23-2018, 09:59 AM
From that jetta you should be able to run everything except the intake manifold. You can run that intake manifold, but would take decent effort to make the routing of the charge pipe work for it (not worth it when stock IM will be just fine for those power levels). Everything will be plug and play. You will see off the n75 valve there will be a line line for both the stock wastegate and charge pipe. These go back to the same places prospectively, but I would upgrade to silicone hose. Then you already run a diverter valve vs a blow off valve. Just upgrade to a more stout one. Cheapest one is of the Audi TT 225, but then aftermarket ones such as Bailey's, Forge Motorsports, etc can be used. Same routing as stock.

With that turbo it can grant 350whp which will blow your stock block. But it should be safe to run at 15-18psi (taking a guess, but your tuner should know safe levels). That boost will be controlled with the n75 if the tuner does not want you to run an mbc/ebc. Seems he would prefer to use the stock components to control boost via ECM/N75 vs your own boost controller. That turbo is laggy, but you will eventually learn the powerband and drive accordingly. You will need an upgraded clutch if manual, upgraded throttle inlet (ER makes the best one IMO, due to the adjustability), most likely larger MAF, and you are good to go. You will def want to consider supporting mods such as upgraded mounts and suspension (when you shift with more power to the engine, things rock much more with the added power). And make sure your fmic has enough cooling capacity for the t04e. If not, upgrade as necessary.

Okay, so more questions. The turbo has a 3" Inlet (Where the compressor wheel is) and a 2" outlet / discharge. In theory, if my tuner decides to, could I do a MAF delete, and put a filter at the turbo inlet?

Seerlah
08-23-2018, 10:11 AM
If you run a wideband stock primary o2 sensor found in the 01 models, then yes. All other years run a narrowband primary o2 sensor, so it requires a MAF for proper lambda calculations. But your tuner will be much better with a MAF. Even people who can run MAFless choose to still use a MAF. The tune will be much more refined when you can measure g/s air intake vs relying only on the primary o2 sensor.

With a 3" compressor inlet, you will need to make your intake like others do if you can't run a filter right on the compressor housing. Even with my setup, you can see how you can easily plumb in a MAF. I run a MAFless setup, since I have an AWM (01) with wideband primary o2 sensor. But I would have no problem if wanting to run a MAF. I would get better driveabilty, but it does not bother me. Drive fine for me...when it is actually driving.

https://s15.postimg.cc/dn415ujuz/20180711_163541.jpg

m70b1jr
08-23-2018, 11:05 AM
If you run a wideband stock primary o2 sensor found in the 01 models, then yes. All other years run a narrowband primary o2 sensor, so it requires a MAF for proper lambda calculations. But your tuner will be much better with a MAF. Even people who can run MAFless choose to still use a MAF. The tune will be much more refined when you can measure g/s air intake vs relying only on the primary o2 sensor.

With a 3" compressor inlet, you will need to make your intake like others do if you can't run a filter right on the compressor housing. Even with my setup, you can see how you can easily plumb in a MAF. I run a MAFless setup, since I have an AWM (01) with wideband primary o2 sensor. But I would have no problem if wanting to run a MAF. I would get better driveabilty, but it does not bother me. Drive fine for me...when it is actually driving.

https://s15.postimg.cc/dn415ujuz/20180711_163541.jpg
I have an '01 AWM, so I guess if i comes down to it, I could run MAFless. Awesome, I have a general idea on how to go about doing this install, Once i get my CCT replaced, I'll throw this setup on, hopefully I can find the turbo intake / outlet piping the previous owner had laying around.

Seerlah
08-23-2018, 11:08 AM
VW is a 1.8t transverse engine. Most likely it won't fit, but maybe will. Luckily companies made it so many 1.8t transverse and longitudinal parts are interchangeable. But not all parts are, including "some" exhaust manifold.

And when it comes to the tuner, it is really up to him. He can of course tune without the MAF, but does not mean he will. Some tuners won't tune unless you run a MAF, regardless.

thedanplasse
08-23-2018, 11:10 AM
The downpipe will not fit from a mk4 to a b5.

m70b1jr
08-23-2018, 12:09 PM
The downpipe will not fit from a mk4 to a b5.

Yea, i assumed this, I can fab my own however.

m70b1jr
08-24-2018, 04:05 PM
Okay!
So, I actually brought the turbo home to do a full inspection of it, and the various bits to show off.
Turns out it's an "eBay Turbo" however it is EMUSA, which is considered a quality ebay turbo, similar to cxracing. There is very little shaft play in either directions which is good. the Wastegate has a dump and even some sort of extender mounting it to the manifold that looks like it can be removed. Not sure if the wastegaste will be facing up or down.. Anyways, here's some photos! Where does the external waste gate connect to? (Turbo?) Where do I tap in the lines from the n75? To wastegate or turbo? Any help?

https://image.ibb.co/d2wBXp/20180824_185515.jpg

https://image.ibb.co/eOen59/20180824_185529.jpg

https://image.ibb.co/eAg0Q9/20180824_185521.jpg

Seerlah
08-24-2018, 04:52 PM
EMUSA is not a decent brand, it's crap. Rebuild it with quality internals, and it is no longer crap. Higher brand units come with higher quality internals. I personally would not even run that turbo. Also that WG is questionable. In general, don't trust ebay parts when it comes to the actual key parts of a turbo kit...like the turbo itself. But if you want to give it a shot, go for it. Just don't say nobody warned you if things go awry.

As for understanding the line routing though for future reference, the way that person was running that turbo was off of wastegate pressure. So say he placed in a 14psi spring in the EWG for example, then he would be running that turbo at 14psi. The n75 would be plumbed in between the line going from the EWG and compressor reference boost line. With the n75, you will then have the ECM control boost pressure vs running off wastegate pressure. At this point, you can run higher boost than the WG pressure spring because the n75 will hold back pressure before opening the WG at a prescribed boost setting (ie you can run 18psi vs 14psi). The n75 will have 3 ports. One goes into the throttle inlet pipe, one goes to the wastegate, and the other to the compressor housing boost reference line.

m70b1jr
08-24-2018, 05:31 PM
EMUSA is not a decent brand, it's crap. Rebuild it with quality internals, and it is no longer crap. Higher brand units come with higher quality internals. I personally would not even run that turbo. Also that WG is questionable. In general, don't trust ebay parts when it comes to the actual key parts of a turbo kit...like the turbo itself. But if you want to give it a shot, go for it. Just don't say nobody warned you if things go awry.

As for understanding the line routing though for future reference, the way that person was running that turbo was off of wastegate pressure. So say he placed in a 14psi spring in the EWG for example, then he would be running that turbo at 14psi. The n75 would be plumbed in between the line going from the EWG and compressor reference boost line. With the n75, you will then have the ECM control boost pressure vs running off wastegate pressure. At this point, you can run higher boost than the WG pressure spring because the n75 will hold back pressure before opening the WG at a prescribed boost setting (ie you can run 18psi vs 14psi). The n75 will have 3 ports. One goes into the throttle inlet pipe, one goes to the wastegate, and the other to the compressor housing boost reference line.

Thanks for the input, however I think I'll use this turbo, and then save for a quality one, if it self destructs, then I'll have been warned. So, just to clarify, I put a T fitting inbetween the line going from the turbo to the EWG, and the N75 valve line will go to that T? And also it wont matter what spring I have in there? the n75 will take over regardless even if i have a 7psi spring, 15psi spring or 25?

Seerlah
08-24-2018, 05:46 PM
Typically you can run double the WG spring pressure if you use a boost controller (n75 in this case). You don't run a t-fitting. Just run new lines.

When you take your current stock turbo off the vehicle, you will see what I am described in my last post. Basically, run the BT setup the same way. You have 3 nipples on your n75 valve. One nipple will be in your throttle inlet pipe. Then you will have two nipples that are visible. You will have one line all by itself going from the compressor housing to one port on the n75 valve. This is your boost pressure reference line, so your n75 knows how much positive air is in your charge pipe (boost). Then one line going from the WG going to the other port on the n75, which actually will apply that positive charge air to open the WG once the n75 sends the positive boost pressure through.

*be sure to place the lines on the right nipples on the n75*

m70b1jr
08-24-2018, 05:59 PM
Typically you can run double the WG spring pressure if you use a boost controller (n75 in this case). You don't run a t-fitting. Just run new lines.

When you take your current stock turbo off the vehicle, you will see what I am described in my last post. Basically, run the BT setup the same way. You have 3 nipples on your n75 valve. One nipple will be in your throttle inlet pipe. Then you will have two nipples that are visible. You will have one line all by itself going from the compressor housing to one port on the n75 valve. This is your boost pressure reference line, so your n75 knows how much positive air is in your charge pipe (boost). Then one line going from the WG going to the other port on the n75, which actually will apply that positive charge air to open the WG once the n75 sends the positive boost pressure through.

*be sure to place the lines on the right nipples on the n75*
ah okay, i understand, kit will probably be on next weekend :)

m70b1jr
08-26-2018, 09:12 AM
Last few question, how can I delete the "Hockey puck" on the TIP so I won't run into as many problems? I know I can install a catch can, but so many people do it different ways. I have one on my Celica GTS, but then again, the PCV System on that is so much simpler. What do you guys with a BT Recommend?

Seerlah
08-26-2018, 09:46 AM
It is really up to you. You can run a vented catch can and plug that port on the TIP. Or you can run one in-line going back to the TIP. Either way won't trigger a CEL.

I personally one two separate -10an lines to under the car. One from valve cover, the other from crank case. I also deleted all my emission stuff, but my was car past the point of no return a while ago.

m70b1jr
08-26-2018, 10:09 AM
It is really up to you. You can run a vented catch can and plug that port on the TIP. Or you can run one in-line going back to the TIP. Either way won't trigger a CEL.

I personally one two separate -10an lines to under the car. One from valve cover, the other from crank case. I also deleted all my emission stuff, but my was car past the point of no return a while ago.

At a car show i was at yesterday (Tuner evolution) I saw a few BT setups there, and what some people did was go from the little Y looking hose from the valve cover, bring it to a catch can, then from the catch can, they just had the other hose pointed towards the ground.