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moderbuilt
07-25-2018, 09:38 AM
Curious how this works. Can I mount a transfer case to a FWD transmission? I'm having trouble sourcing an AWD trans, and unsure if it's a one-piece or if parts are transferable.

garytightpants
07-25-2018, 09:47 AM
Curious how this works. Can I mount a transfer case to a FWD transmission? I'm having trouble sourcing an AWD trans, and unsure if it's a one-piece or if parts are transferable.

no.

moderbuilt
07-25-2018, 10:07 AM
no.

Thanks.

walky_talky20
07-25-2018, 10:31 AM
The swap is possible, if you want to convert it to FWD. Just install it and leave the driveshaft out. You will also have to swap the axle cups from your old trans as FWD's use larger cups, so your front axles won't match up.

Quattro transmissions should be pretty easy to come up with, especially in your area. If it's 5-speed manual, you can use anything from 97-2001 Passat or A4. And with a little bit of tail case swapping you can use up to 2003. And if you're in a REAL bind you can swap the rear diff to a 4.11 (from a tiptronic) and then you can use quattro 5-speed boxes all the way back to 1988. I'm running a 5MT quattro box from 1990 myself.

garytightpants
07-26-2018, 07:50 AM
The swap is possible, if you want to convert it to FWD. Just install it and leave the driveshaft out. You will also have to swap the axle cups from your old trans as FWD's use larger cups, so your front axles won't match up.

Quattro transmissions should be pretty easy to come up with, especially in your area. If it's 5-speed manual, you can use anything from 97-2001 Passat or A4. And with a little bit of tail case swapping you can use up to 2003. And if you're in a REAL bind you can swap the rear diff to a 4.11 (from a tiptronic) and then you can use quattro 5-speed boxes all the way back to 1988. I'm running a 5MT quattro box from 1990 myself.

I didn't even look to see where he was. Quattro cars are like cockroaches in Colorado

moderbuilt
07-26-2018, 10:48 AM
I'm seeing a lot of quattros, but mine is an automatic...and hope to keep the quattro. I've briefly thought of the manual swap but honestly just don't know what's involved. Interior console changes as needed, much else beyond that I'm unsure.

Edit: Have seen several Passat's and 1.8t's at the pull-apart, but might end up finding one on Craigslist or somewhere before I pull one from there.

Cybersombosis
07-26-2018, 11:17 AM
Just be aware that for auto trannyís, the tranny code has to match or it wonít work (constant limp mode). Different technologies for the facelift split and different shift selector between 2000 and 2001. What year is the car?

Doug

walky_talky20
07-26-2018, 12:04 PM
Oooh...<Breathes in slowly through clenched teeth>...Automatic.

Yeah, you need to match the code on that guy. Failure to match the code is a serious roll of the dice. Basically no interchange information on what would work or not. I'm surprised it would be that hard to find, though. These are 20 year old Audi's. They are pretty much all in the junkyard by now. lol

garytightpants
07-26-2018, 12:16 PM
I'm seeing a lot of quattros, but mine is an automatic...and hope to keep the quattro. I've briefly thought of the manual swap but honestly just don't know what's involved. Interior console changes as needed, much else beyond that I'm unsure.

Edit: Have seen several Passat's and 1.8t's at the pull-apart, but might end up finding one on Craigslist or somewhere before I pull one from there.

Just manual swap. OR sell it and buy a manual one.

walky_talky20
07-26-2018, 01:09 PM
^This.

5MT swap that pig like it's your job.

moderbuilt
07-27-2018, 07:55 AM
Thinkin' that's a good option with the manual swap. Is there a write up anywhere? I actually bought it with the intent to rebuild it since the trans seal blew on it, I'll be pulling the motor to access the transmision, and while it's out I'll do the timing chain and valve covers, etc...so if it's more in depth it can't be by much haha.

Anyhow, thanks for the suggestions

garytightpants
07-27-2018, 08:13 AM
Thinkin' that's a good option with the manual swap. Is there a write up anywhere? I actually bought it with the intent to rebuild it since the trans seal blew on it, I'll be pulling the motor to access the transmision, and while it's out I'll do the timing chain and valve covers, etc...so if it's more in depth it can't be by much haha.

Anyhow, thanks for the suggestions

There are a lot of write-ups, a few very detailed ones.

the list goes:
Transmision + mount brackets
driveshaft
manual rear differential (depending on which transmission you get, as there are 01a's available with a 4.11 final drive in which case you can use the original automatic rear diff)
manual front axles
manual pedal assembly or just swap the clutch pedal onto your assembly
clutch switch and wiring
clutch hydraulics
clutch kit
shifter and associated bits
shifter surround

jumper the park/neutral relay, re-code the ecu soft-coding and go.


if you're like me it also entails pulling up the carpet and completely removing the TCU and all associated systems and wiring and switching to manual cluster to get rid of the "PRNDL" lcd display

moderbuilt
07-27-2018, 08:31 AM
There are a lot of write-ups, a few very detailed ones.

the list goes:
Transmision + mount brackets
driveshaft
manual rear differential (depending on which transmission you get, as there are 01a's available with a 4.11 final drive in which case you can use the original automatic rear diff)
manual front axles
manual pedal assembly or just swap the clutch pedal onto your assembly
clutch switch and wiring
clutch hydraulics
clutch kit
shifter and associated bits
shifter surround

jumper the park/neutral relay, re-code the ecu soft-coding and go.


if you're like me it also entails pulling up the carpet and completely removing the TCU and all associated systems and wiring and switching to manual cluster to get rid of the "PRNDL" lcd display

Damn, that's a bit more involved than what I figured - I didn't even think of the cluster details, and half the shit won't mate with what I've got so maybe I'll scrap that idea.

When y'all say the codes of the transmission should match up to mate with the engine, what do you mean? 01V / 5HP19FLA?

Cybersombosis
07-27-2018, 09:01 AM
That is the trans model, not code. What year is your car? You can find out what the code is here on page 6. https://aftermarket.zf.com/us/united-states/corporate/trans-id-guide.pdf.

I have re and reíed an auto tranny 3 times, both with pulling the engine with an engine hoist and from the bottom using jack stands and an ATV jack. Having done both, I would say pulling from the bottom is much less work and less time.

What exactly is the issue you are having with the trans? i.e. slipping in reverse etc?

Doug

moderbuilt
07-27-2018, 09:17 AM
That is the trans model, not code. What year is your car? You can find out what the code is here on page 6. https://aftermarket.zf.com/us/united-states/corporate/trans-id-guide.pdf.

I have re and reíed an auto tranny 3 times, both with pulling the engine with an engine hoist and from the bottom using jack stands and an ATV jack. Having done both, I would say pulling from the bottom is much less work and less time.

What exactly is the issue you are having with the trans? i.e. slipping in reverse etc?

Doug

It's a 99.0, looks like trans code DRN and it's completely inoperable. Apparently it was driving when the transmission pump seal blew and fluid spat out. The fluid was black and smelled atrocious so I doubt it was changed for a while. I put some in it to test, gears seemed fine (was on a rack) but I couldn't drive it because it's coming out so fast. I'm assuming replace instead of repair seal will be the biggest time saver.

I'd prefer the fastest route to replace it, but the reason to pull the front clip/motor was to do other maint. stuff to it.

Cybersombosis
07-27-2018, 09:30 AM
Just making sure but that code is for a V6. Is yours a V6?

When you filled it, where was the trans fluid spewing out of? The bell housing or somewhere else? If just the bell housing then all you may need is a new O ring or seal. To get to the torque converter seal, you donít need to remove the pump. It is accessible from the outside. For the pump o ring, unfortunately the front drive shaft and a bunch of internal seals have to be removed in order to get the pump out. That also requires removal of the valve body. But if it is spewing in great volumes, I would think that the torque converter seal is the culprit since that has the most pressure and the pump o ring doesnít.

Doug

moderbuilt
07-27-2018, 10:11 AM
Yep, it's the V6. It was coming from the bell housing, right at the 5HP tag actually. I've read that once this seal blows, it places enormous pressure on the pump and then the pump blows the converter seal - sound right?

By the way, how long did it take you to R&R the trans on jacks?

Cybersombosis
07-27-2018, 10:41 AM
Hmmm. The pump itself doesnít have any seals as far as I remember. It is a metal on metal impeller sandwiched in between the pump housing and a metal plate. Iíll have to take a look at the diagrams to see if there are any seals. I had the entire tranny apart but didnít bother cracking open the pump when I did the tranny rebuild.

If it is the pump then you may also able to get a used one off of eBay and just replace that. That would solve the pump problem. If it isnít, they usually have a great return policy minus a restocking fee. In addition you get your shipping back through PayPal. The only problem is you donít know if it fixed it until you reinstall it. This is the main reason why tranny guys do a complete rebuild so they donít have to deal with the labor of re and reing more than once.

As far as time, I can have the tranny out in about 8 leisurely hours. Follow the guide in the service manual that is floating around. Itís a step by step. The part that I missed when following an online DIY was that the DIY was a manual tranny where the subframe was not lowered. Once you lower the subframe, it gives enough space to pop the tranny out the bottom. I didnít follow it and couldnít figure out how to pop it out so I had to pull the engine. Now I know better after reading the service manual.

Doug

Cybersombosis
07-27-2018, 11:33 AM
FYI this was a project car for me so had the time to attempt a rebuild and take my time. I did it mainly for a learning experience so I could do the clutch on my daily when the time came. If you are in a rush and donít want to deal with trouble shooting and doing it on the cheap, get a used tranny, drain the fluids, pop in a new filter and pan gasket and plop her in.

If it were me and it wasnít my daily, I would pull the tranny and see where the fluid looked like it was spewing from. Then pull the torque converter and inspect the seal and see if it was torn. If it is then replace.

This is all coming from a 1.8T point of view so take it with a grain of salt.

Doug

moderbuilt
07-27-2018, 12:17 PM
Awesome, appreciate the feedback. I think with what you've said I'll pull the tranny and inspect it before I buy any parts. I'm half-expecting to simply replace it with the parts you mentioned and throw it in for the sake of turn-around...It's likely I'll pull apart the transmission for experience as well so we will see how it looks coming out. The biggest fear is exactly that, not knowing how it drove beforehand and, they were poor owners of this neglected A4. I'm looking forward to reviving it!

Edit: Are there any parts I can upgrade while I'm in there? Flexplate..better sensor..just curious. I won't be building a racecar but if I wanted supreme reliability I'd like to upgrade it now. Thx

garytightpants
07-27-2018, 12:36 PM
That is the trans model, not code. What year is your car? You can find out what the code is here on page 6. https://aftermarket.zf.com/us/united-states/corporate/trans-id-guide.pdf.

I have re and reíed an auto tranny 3 times, both with pulling the engine with an engine hoist and from the bottom using jack stands and an ATV jack. Having done both, I would say pulling from the bottom is much less work and less time.

What exactly is the issue you are having with the trans? i.e. slipping in reverse etc?

Doug

I know it take a little more work with a auto, but I can have my engine/trans out of my car 45 min after pulling it into the garage. I'll do that any day vs doing it from underneath.

Cybersombosis
07-27-2018, 10:02 PM
Ok so looking at the blow up diagram for the pump, all the parts are metal and there are no parts that could break except for a couple O-rings. Highly unlikely as they are not exposed to any moving parts.

http://www3.telus.net/~dougkong/Audi/Trannypump.jpg

If you take a look at the front of the tranny with the torque converter removed, it's pretty well bullet proof with multiple screws and very tight tolerances when everything is buttoned up. Almost to the point where its difficult to insert the pump into the housing.

http://www3.telus.net/~dougkong/Audi/Trannyfront.jpg

So the only thing that is exposed to the rotating shaft of the torque converter is the seal. I would put my best guess as to this piece of metal and rubber failing. Check it out and see if it is damaged or split.

http://www3.telus.net/~dougkong/Audi/Pump.jpg

You will need a seal puller as you won't be able to get a screwdriver in there at the right angle with the bell housing in the way. If you have an adjustable pry bar, that may work.

https://images11.palcdn.com/hlr-system/WebPhotos/29/299/2990/2990539.jpg

https://images11.palcdn.com/hlr-system/WebPhotos/86/860/8609/8609125.jpg

I think I used a piece of ABS piping to seat the new seal but you can use anything that is the right diameter. Use assembly lube on the seal so you don't damage it when inserting.

Good luck and hopefully it will only be this $20 seal to fix this puppy.

https://www.carid.com/ic/wp/zf/w01331627723zf_1.jpg

Doug

moderbuilt
07-28-2018, 06:52 AM
I know it take a little more work with a auto, but I can have my engine/trans out of my car 45 min after pulling it into the garage. I'll do that any day vs doing it from underneath.

Say I fly you out and pay you two hours time for mine? lel ...

Doug, those diagrams are nice - from looking at Chiltons diags on Identifix, they are way harder to look at but they also say the same thing - that sleeve is likely the problem. I hope to get started on it next Saturday, maybe start a build thread.

PZ.
07-29-2018, 04:08 PM
If the bushing does not come out stuck to the TC, you just need to replace the seal, replace the fluid and install a rebuilt TC (to prevent future TC lock seal failure).

GrapeBandit
07-29-2018, 05:56 PM
Curious how this works. Can I mount a transfer case to a FWD transmission? I'm having trouble sourcing an AWD trans, and unsure if it's a one-piece or if parts are transferable.

I have 2 quattro manual transmissions. One with 171k and another with 30k. PM me if you are still in need.

V70R
07-31-2018, 07:32 AM
If you're leaking trans fluid from this region and was dripping down through the bellhousing, the bushing came out of the front pump. Removing the front pump is fairly labor intensive- trans pan, valve body, and a few other internal components must be removed to release the pump for replacement.

Here's a few pictures when I did an auto-manual swap two years ago for my buddy. Pump bushing popped out (most likely due to heat) and literally welded itself to the torque converter and could not be removed with gear pullers.

https://imageshack.com/a/img923/1951/yNMBzJ.jpg

https://imageshack.com/a/img924/3516/RAyUTQ.jpg

Joe Jr.
09-04-2018, 10:29 AM
yeah man, hate to say it but selling the car and looking for 5spd will save you a bunch of time and grief. I see lots of them on CL here if you watch weekly you can usually find something under $2k. Unless you've put a lot into your current ride. there's also a guy in Monument with multiple parts/cars posted all the time (also on CL). he will have everything you need ...just an idea. ( he has dozens of cars to get parts from).

moderbuilt
09-04-2018, 02:14 PM
Thx Joe Jr. I haven't even started on this cause of time limits but doing the compression test today to make sure all's good before I rip this weekend, but overall plan to keep the transmission in it. I've already picked up some DEPO lights from the scrapyard [facepalm] ...

Really was wishing it was a 5spd but I think once it's running I'll be happy enough with it - until the next one.

Joe Jr.
09-04-2018, 02:35 PM
good luck!

wolfe2118
09-13-2018, 07:25 AM
There are a lot of write-ups, a few very detailed ones.

the list goes:
Transmision + mount brackets
driveshaft
manual rear differential (depending on which transmission you get, as there are 01a's available with a 4.11 final drive in which case you can use the original automatic rear diff)
manual front axles
manual pedal assembly or just swap the clutch pedal onto your assembly
clutch switch and wiring
clutch hydraulics
clutch kit
shifter and associated bits
shifter surround

jumper the park/neutral relay, re-code the ecu soft-coding and go.


if you're like me it also entails pulling up the carpet and completely removing the TCU and all associated systems and wiring and switching to manual cluster to get rid of the "PRNDL" lcd display

You can use a cluster from a Tip car in a manual with softcoding, it changes the display so that it doesn't show the gears. You can also go the other way as well. I'm using a 5spd cluster in my Tipcrapimatic now.

walky_talky20
09-13-2018, 01:55 PM
You can use a cluster from a Tip car in a manual with softcoding, it changes the display so that it doesn't show the gears. You can also go the other way as well. I'm using a 5spd cluster in my Tipcrapimatic now.

It's called CrapTRONIC. Get your terms straight. [>_<]

wolfe2118
09-14-2018, 08:00 PM
I got my first one a few months ago so I wasn't sure what to call it yet. It sucks whatever you call it.

walky_talky20
09-17-2018, 10:08 AM
Hopefully its your last one. 3 pedals for the win.

moderbuilt
10-10-2018, 12:22 PM
https://imageshack.com/a/img923/1951/yNMBzJ.jpg


That's exactly what happened, bushing came off simply with the seal puller thankfully. Weird that no parts houses around could find that bushing for me so online I went. The dealer diagrams didn't even show it in there. [confused]

Thanks to the pics y'all've provided I can see how it's really supposed to be installed so the parts are on the way. Do TC's ever fail, BTW?

Here's how it sits until the weekend

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/Dg2t27-mzTDMs8zzsxUsErIun2cEfOKEm3Y4NdM0wp0YSwKNlWCFtQEFW FR-5UZQNJucJqMOmu74FRGahExW=w1024-h636-rw

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/bI4DJjT7zAaSSy8TvaosW5I0YKMV89yTmzZQmfkNwKd6mjg7Ao Yrwnu-Fa_AzNKG9hcnpMeeLcSCFHD0hs8v=w1024-h586

Cybersombosis
10-11-2018, 07:01 PM
Good luck with the install. Looking forward to see how it goes.


That's exactly what happened, bushing came off simply with the seal puller thankfully. Weird that no parts houses around could find that bushing for me so online I went. The dealer diagrams didn't even show it in there. [confused]

Thanks to the pics y'all've provided I can see how it's really supposed to be installed so the parts are on the way. Do TC's ever fail, BTW?

Here's how it sits until the weekend

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181012/ae996b1a0131ba6892684e948bbf6bd2.gif

moderbuilt
10-17-2018, 11:45 AM
Quick update for those interested.

Found some nifty readings that show possible valve body pressure regulator fault causing this problem and others, Kansas City TDI (http://kansascitytdi.com/01v-pump-bushing-spin-out/) but don't know the pan condition yet..I'll inspect that soon enough.

Good inner seal to the torque converter
89346

"385" sleeves that get replaced with this repair, and the two plastic pipes (https://www.transmissionpartsdistributors.com/zf-5hp19-5hp19fl-5hp19fla-01v-01l-transmissions-pipe-for-pump-body-zf-original-equipment-1060-310-045/) here
89347

And these two gems
89349

89350

I don't mind the rad. support being cracked, that'll get replaced to mount the depo lights properly. So far I'll just need that, and a motor mount in addition.

moderbuilt
10-20-2018, 10:24 AM
Just making sure but that code is for a V6. Is yours a V6?

When you filled it, where was the trans fluid spewing out of? The bell housing or somewhere else? If just the bell housing then all you may need is a new O ring or seal. To get to the torque converter seal, you donít need to remove the pump. It is accessible from the outside. For the pump o ring, unfortunately the front drive shaft and a bunch of internal seals have to be removed in order to get the pump out. That also requires removal of the valve body. But if it is spewing in great volumes, I would think that the torque converter seal is the culprit since that has the most pressure and the pump o ring doesnít.

Doug

So I'm out here trying to pull the pump. That thing is quite tight, I don't have to remove unless I'm replacing the pump o-ring? I don't want to at this point, just the bushing. Can I install the bushing and seal without removing?

I forgot the reason I was pulling out the pump..anyhow, I pulled the valve body because I want to replace/upgrade the pressure regulator inside it. Thanks for any advice you have.

Cybersombosis
10-20-2018, 10:57 PM
If you want to pull the pump you have to pull the 5 sleaves and it is hard to get them out without destroying them. I had to poke them with a pick to pull them up. Like I said in the other post, If you donít have to break open the tranny then I wouldnít. So many little thing can go wrong when putting it back together. If it was shifting fine and there was no slipping then just fix the bushing and the seal.

Unfortunately I didnít have to deal with the bushing. It was already installed and didnít need replacing. I can only guess that it needs to be pressed into place with a seal setter and mallet but I would ask someone in the know like Erickson Industires who is a ZF dealer here in North America. They helped when I was rebuilding mine. I took a look at the ZF manual and in the pump section, there is no mention of installing the bushing. Just the washer and seal.

If you wanted to carry on the first thing I would do is make sure the replacement bushing spins freely on the torque converter. If it binds then it will most likely happen again. There is tranny fluid there so it is lubricated so make sure to lube it up before testing. Once you confirm it spins then try a dry fit on the pump. If it is tight but has a little interference then I would take it out, slather it with assembly lube and drift it home. Once set I would insert the converter and make sure it spins freely. If it does then I would install the washer and seal then insert the converter and reinstall the tranny. Make sure the converterís key way is in the right position. It will sort of clunk into place when seated right. Otherwise it will be out too far and wonít mate up to the engine.

Of course please do this at your own risk. If you want more thourough advice, call a tranny shop or email Erickson and ask. Good luck.

Doug