Clutch Upgrade, what else to do while they are in there?

[SconnieRoadie]

Considering swapping to a performance clutch and wondering what other maintenance or upgrades should be undertaken while they are in there...

Thanks, and my apologies for the less than coherent exhaust nirvana posting. It didn't even make a reasonable argument (soundaktor is for inside the car, exhaust is for outside and managing *power*).

TIA

Sconnie

[socrates42]

Clutch delay valve. I know theater are others as well that make sense.

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[b8s4me]

You should have the rear main seal done while the trans is pulled off, that's the only way to access the seal. You should replace the throwout bearing, clutch fork, clutch pivot ball, pilot bearing, flywheel needle bearing and flywheel.

[KRp220]

Considering swapping to a performance clutch and wondering what other maintenance or upgrades should be undertaken while they are in there...

Thanks, and my apologies for the less than coherent exhaust nirvana posting. It didn't even make a reasonable argument (soundaktor is for inside the car, exhaust is for outside and managing *power*).

TIA

Sconnie

to echo what socrates said, get a stainless steel cltuch line which eliminates the CDV

https://www.uspmotorsports.com/USP-Motorsports-Stainless-steel-clutch-line-Audi-B8.html?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&adpos=1o1&scid=scplpUSP004CL1&sc_intid=USP004CL1&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIxtDKzvDV2wIVhVqGCh2kbgOXEAYYASAB EgJmJfD_BwE

that link should be correct but double check.

[S4'ed]

Make sure your clutch fork, and related parts are all the latest revision. There was a design change that effected most of these parts (to fix the "gritty clutch pedal feel" issue) and you should not mix parts together of the old design, versus the new design. The geometry of the mechanism is slightly different. And make sure you use the correct specified grease on the pivot and sliding parts of the fork (see the TSB for the gritty pedal fix).

[Cr099]

Extended slave too

[ellwood]

You should have the rear main seal done while the trans is pulled off, that's the only way to access the seal. You should replace the throwout bearing, clutch fork, clutch pivot ball, pilot bearing, flywheel needle bearing and flywheel.

^these things. if your clutch fork is the latest part number i personally wouldn't bother with replacing the fork or pivot ball. i believe the flywheel needle bearing comes installed in your new flywheels (at least it does in the OEM one)

there would also be plenty of room to install and align a short shifter with the driveshaft and exhaust removed

[Jimcoily]

downpipes if you don't already

[SWest]

Posting this mainly to tag for future reference (66k on stock clutch). Hard time finding solid answer to what solves the "rev hang"? A lightweight flywheel?

[Mr.Jones18]

downpipes if you don't already

Do you mean test pipes? Down pipes are pretty accessible with the trans in.


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[Jimcoily]

Do you mean test pipes? Down pipes are pretty accessible with the trans in.


Sent from my iPhone using Audizine (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=87676)Haha, yes test pipes. Thanks

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