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View Full Version : Replaced adjuster gasket, TB loose. Did I do that?



whitedog
05-14-2018, 09:25 PM
2002 S6, 4.2L, 180,000 miles.

Well, I replaced the timing chain adjuster gasket on the left head and the timing belt is loose, but I can't for the life of me see how I could have done it.

To replace the gasket, I removed all of the intake cam hold downs including the two that also hold down the exhaust cam. I compressed the adjuster and lifted the adjuster and intake cam enough to replace the gasket and half moon. Bolted things down and was talking to my neighbor that owns it and I noticed that the timing belt is very loose. Of course, I immediately figured that I did something wrong, but after thinking about it some, I don't think that I did. Since the exhaust cam was bolted down and I never touched the belt or tensioner or anything there, I am thinking that the belt was already loose and I just didn't notice it. The belt section that I was checking was between the exhaust cam and the small idler and when I checked the belt on the other side of the cam it was snug, but I'm not sure that it was TIGHT.

So, is there something that I could have done to make the belt loose, or did I just save this engine from catastrophic failure?

Timing belt system will be changed.

Thanks.

whitedog
05-15-2018, 09:01 PM
Bump. Anyone have any thoughts on this?

audinutt
05-17-2018, 10:20 AM
When these V8 engines rest they tend to develop slack on one side of the timing belt turn it over by hand a couple of revolutions and see if the slack isn't gone

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whitedog
05-17-2018, 10:37 AM
Thank you for that. I feel better now. Unfortunately, I don't think I will be able to see that since it's getting a head. I do trust you that it happens.

BTW, is the TB procedure the same as a 2.8 or 2.7?

02 A6 2.7T
05-17-2018, 11:39 AM
Thank you for that. I feel better now. Unfortunately, I don't think I will be able to see that since it's getting a head. I do trust you that it happens.

BTW, is the TB procedure the same as a 2.8 or 2.7?

Cam lock bar is longer for the 4.2 ... you'll also need a 2-pin wrench tool T40009 to adjust the tensioner cam:

https://www.toolsource.com/images/prod_images/110181.JPG

whitedog
05-17-2018, 11:40 AM
Oh joy! More special tools to only use once.

whitedog
05-17-2018, 11:43 AM
I have the Schwaben 30/12V holder.how much longer is this one? I'm thinking vice grips and a straight edge to keeps it square.

audinutt
05-19-2018, 12:33 PM
That is absolutely the wrong way to do this you have to use that tool to put three proper pre tension on the Belt... and you have to use a quarter inch Drive torque wrench reading in inch pounds. to pretension it correctly.

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whitedog
05-21-2018, 07:12 PM
I was talking about the cam holder. The tensioners another story. I have a good dial pound-inch torque wrench and that tool shown above on the way, so I'm golden there as far as tools.

Is the crank lock the same as the 30/12 V?

I was just thinking that maybe the holes in the cam lock are in a different place as well as being farther apart. That would mean my idea wouldn't work.

I will go slow and triple check things as I go and not take things apart until I know I have the tools that will work and the right procedure.

My Bentley shows the procedure for the timing belt but it says it's for the 2.7&2.8 V6 engines. Is it the same for the 4.2 V8?

Alas, it doesn't show anything for the head R&R. Should I just wing it? I could just use torque specs for the last head I had off which was a 1.9 TDI. Yeah. That'll be close enough. Or maybe the Deere 4045 engine?

(Yes, I'm joking) (But I do need torque specs and sequence so I can use the 10MM extra long triple square aka XZN bit I ordered)

whitedog
06-12-2018, 04:38 PM
The 12/30 valve tool from Schwaben worked after I made the slots about .075" longer. So now it's a 12/30/40 valve tool. :)

Belt went easy, though I got myself a bit confused on the tensioning procedure. And I don't agree with it. According to what I found, they wanted to tighten the cam gears before setting tension. That ain't right because you want the gears to be able to move as you tension the belt. That's why there is no keyway. I just went with my TDI instincts and got it done.

Head is on, and she runs great, with no leaks. I'll let it cool down over night and make sure it's still GTG in the AM and kick it out the door.

It does have a code for the cam position sensor open or short. Which bank is bank two? I checked that the sensor is plugged in. I do have the spare on from the other head so I may try that one.