Carbon Cleaning Process

[denako]

Hi all,

I hope this is not a redundant question and if it is, that someone can point me in the right direction on AZ.. I'm just about ready to do my carbon cleaning using a walnut blaster and Ford Prefect's 3D media tool. What all do I need in order to complete this in terms of gaskets and bolts? I recall my former mechanic needing to replace the supercharger bolts and the intake manifold gasket. Is there anything else I should change while I'm in there?

Any previous experience advice is appreciated. Thanks.

[dean.mohr]

Sub'd. Planning on doing this soon.

[Ford Prefect]

Hi all,

I hope this is not a redundant question and if it is, that someone can point me in the right direction on AZ.. I'm just about ready to do my carbon cleaning using a walnut blaster and Ford Prefect's 3D media tool. What all do I need in order to complete this in terms of gaskets and bolts? I recall my former mechanic needing to replace the supercharger bolts and the intake manifold gasket. Is there anything else I should change while I'm in there?

Any previous experience advice is appreciated. Thanks.

Hey man, I’ll reply with what I did when at a computer. Just haven’t had a chance.


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[denako]

Thanks Rich! Even your original thread will suffice. Just want to make sure I'm not missing anything when the charger is off.

[Ford Prefect]

Thanks Rich! Even your original thread will suffice. Just want to make sure I'm not missing anything when the charger is off.

Here is my original thread:

https://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/754242-Carbon-cleaning-w-homemade-tool-first-time-w-92k-miles/page6?highlight=Ford+Prefect


Service position with the front end makes the SC belt much easier to get off. I spent half a day taping wrenches together to make something that would reach he tensioner pulley. There is simply no room and my garage is not very well equipped.

I didn't mark any of the wires or vacuum hoses. My car had 91k miles and everything fell into position no matter what I did to it. Not the wisest advice, admittedly.

The SC is not light. Just remember this as you're bent over the front end pulling it up. I replaced my SC oil, didn't need to but you won't know until you take some out. For refill just put in what you take out. Not sure on the spec but ECS has the oil.

When you take the intake manifolds off be patient. You really have to wiggle (or wriggle as it were) back and forth before they break free.

I replaced upper and lower intake manifold gaskets and injector o-rings (only b/c I managed to get the original ones swollen with carb cleaner, idiot). I had to buy 6 $10 kits to get that done too. I was told injectors didn't need to be cleaned and took that as gospel, lol.

Remember how the divider plates go in. I remember it not being obvious but also not too hard to figure out. They will be black as night until you clean them. Clean the intake manifolds with carb cleaner, wear eye protection. Don't ask, just trust me, I'm 44. And for god's sake, be careful with the damn injector o-rings near the carb cleaner.

Four valve sets should be closed, one open, and one partially open. At least that's how it was for me. Cover the ones you aren't cleaning.

I used the cheap HF gravity blaster, $25 I think, with fine shells. I thought course would be better but have had mixed feedback. A fella in Canada had his mechanic clean the valves on his S5 V8, he taped the blaster and vacuum to the adapter and walked away. My balls aren't that big and I didn't want walnut shells all over my garage. @jroyalty7 lol, different reason same result.

Rotating the motor, I pulled on the SC belt, maybe not great advice. But if you do that, put the car in neutral and remove the spark plugs. Again, I'm 44, somethings you just know... Some have removed FP fuse and cranked, again, I'm not that guy. It will be obvious which valves are closed.

Blast away. When you think it's enough blast some more, then again, maybe once more. Then, and only then, take something not too sharp and scrap gently down the intake tract. You'll know if the blasting is complete.

Upon reassembly, be careful of the flappers in the intake manifolds. They need to move freely otherwise you WILL get codes. It's all in the thread. Removing the SC twice for the same job did not instill confidence in my wife about my mechanical abilities. as you torque the 6 screws and nuts for the manifolds, continue checking the flaps. The SC is heavier than you might think if I didn't mention that already/ [facepalm]

Don't forget the connector and the vacuum tube on the ends (towards front of car) of the intake manifolds. They aren't easy to get to once you place the manifold.

Remember where those little insulation pads go under the SC, they aren't as obvious as it might seem when you see them installed.

Most folks do the water pump and t-stat at the same time. I didn't, sucker. I have some alldatadiy instructions too if you need. PM me and I'll email.

That's all I have for now, lots of driving the last two days and I'm wiped out.

Good luck!

Rich

[Jroyalty7]

Hahahaaa PTSD so hard from that week lmfao

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[theweebabyseamus]

Do NOT pull the fuel pump fuse and turn it over. Started quite a fiasco for me that involved an injector being popped out of the head (loudly) and then chasing down injector seals. If you do want to try that method, make sure to loosen the spark plugs, if not remove them altogether.

+1 PTSD, not many seemingly innocent DIY's I can remember that made me feel as stupid as that one.

[denako]

Thanks for the details, the little bits of advice are really gonna help so I don’t F this one up. Much appreciated everyone


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[Ford Prefect]

Do NOT pull the fuel pump fuse and turn it over. Started quite a fiasco for me that involved an injector being popped out of the head (loudly) and then chasing down injector seals. If you do want to try that method, make sure to loosen the spark plugs, if not remove them altogether.

+1 PTSD, not many seemingly innocent DIY's I can remember that made me feel as stupid as that one.

Ah couldn’t remember who did this! Good point in just loosening the spark plugs, prevent crap from falling in.

At least you didn’t pull the SC twice with a homemade taped together wrench. Although if I had blown an injector out I might’ve given up. Haha


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[minman26]

Do NOT pull the fuel pump fuse and turn it over. Started quite a fiasco for me that involved an injector being popped out of the head (loudly) and then chasing down injector seals. If you do want to try that method, make sure to loosen the spark plugs, if not remove them altogether.

+1 PTSD, not many seemingly innocent DIY's I can remember that made me feel as stupid as that one.

I read that other post about pulling the fuel pump fuse and letting the car run until it dies. Is that NOT a good idea?

[hardfive]

I read that other post about pulling the fuel pump fuse and letting the car run until it dies. Is that NOT a good idea?

No definitely pull the fuse and let car run until it dies. The fuel system has some ridiculous PSI that could definitely cause some issues/injuries if not depressurized.

An injector can only pop out if the sc is off and manifold removed already. He was probably testing the fuel lines for leaks or something similar. If he got a injector out of the head when first pulling the fuse to run the fuel lines dry he would have some pretty big issues on his hands.

[minman26]

No definitely pull the fuse and let car run until it dies. The fuel system has some ridiculous PSI that could definitely cause some issues/injuries if not depressurized.

An injector can only pop out if the sc is off and manifold removed already. He was probably testing the fuel lines for leaks or something similar. If he got a injector out of the head when first pulling the fuse to run the fuel lines dry he would have some pretty big issues on his hands.

Found below in ALLDATA. I've never heard anyone on here using this method so I guess still pull fuse and run until car dies? 100 PSI is still pretty high and this will be my first time getting into the engine so I guess I'd like it to be as low as possible when I finally do get to the fuel system.

Releasing Pressure in High Pressure Area

¤ The fuel injection system is separated into a high-pressure section (maximum approximately 120 bar (1740 psi)) and a low-pressure section (approximately 6 bar (87 psi)).
¤ Before opening high pressure area, fuel pressure must be reduced to a residual pressure of approximately 6 bar (87 psi). The procedure for this is as follows.
High Fuel Pressure, Reducing

Connect a Vehicle Diagnostic Tester.
Start engine and run at idle speed.
Select "engine electronics" in On Board Diagnostics (OBD).
Select "Measured values".
Select "Fuel pressure" from the list.
¤ Specified value: between 35 and 45 bar (507 and 652 psi)
Pry the cover - 1 - on the left and right of the instrument panel off, for example using the Trim Removal Wedge (3409) - arrow -.



While the engine is idling, remove the fuse - in the fuse holder inside the instrument panel on the driver side - for the Fuel Pump Control Module (J538).



¤ By removing the fuse, the voltage supply to "terminal 30" for the Fuel Pump Control Module (J538) is interrupted.
Check the fuel pressure displayed.
¤ The fuel pressure decreases rapidly because the mechanical high pressure pump is no longer supplied with fuel from the Transfer Fuel Pump (G6).
Switch off the ignition as soon as the fuel pressure has decreased to approximately 8 bar (116 psi).
¤ The fuel pressure must not drop below 6 bar (87 psi), because otherwise the engine will shut off (risk of catalytic converter damage).
The fuel rail will continue to be filled with fuel, but it will no longer be under high pressure.

ATTENTION!
Do not let fuel come into contact with skin.

¤ The fuel lines will continue to be filled with fuel, but will no longer be under high pressure. Wear protective eyewear and protective clothing when opening the fuel system.
¤ Before opening the high pressure system, place a cloth around the connection.
After reducing fuel pressure, place a clean cloth around the connection and open the high pressure system "immediately". Escaping fuel must be absorbed.
¤ If the high pressure system is not opened immediately, the pressure will increase because of post-heating.