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josh baker
01-30-2018, 04:52 PM
so im gonna give the speed3 k04 a try. got the turbo from ebay. had a flange laser cut at work. bought a 5 bolt to 3" v-band on the advise from zimbu. got a UM 440 ecu on the way with 415cc genesis injectors and a 3" maf housing. also have a ra4/s4 clutch setup on the way. might move to full 3" exhaust front to rear also. right now its 3" dp to 2.5" free flowing. im gonna keep a running total on this upgrade. by the way, all this is in a bagged and bodied s10.

turbo -- $145
v-band adpter -- $50
ecu, inj, maf -- $300
s4 clutch -- $167
ra4 flywheel -- $266
------------
$928


ebay fmic
31x12x3 --$99
couplers
tbolt clamps --$100
aem filter --$31
3" ic pipe --$42
2" weld el --$20
3" 45 for dp --$22
o2 bungs --$17
-------------
$1259

https://i.imgur.com/S7hZFMh.jpg?2

https://i.imgur.com/g8M61WJ.jpg?2

https://i.imgur.com/vF7juSG.jpg?2

https://i.imgur.com/gQnxA4f.jpg?2

current 2.5" exhaust. in the bottom of the pic, thats were it connects to the 3"dp

https://i.imgur.com/OMkMgSU.jpg?1

pic of said s10 at ride height

https://i.imgur.com/y4TaXE0.jpg?1

kwnk
01-30-2018, 05:00 PM
Sweet! I remember when you first posted the s10 build! Glad to see the build continue.

the mazda k04 is up on my experimental parts list. Looking forward to the progress

Cheers,

MSq5
01-30-2018, 06:41 PM
My "other car" is an '08 Speed 3 bought new in '08 and maintained and modded by me ever since. I am tuned on a K04 and running a 3" catless dp/rp into the stock MS3 CBE, which I recall is about 2.60". The turbo benefits from the 3" free flowing dp/rp, but in the Mazdaspeed community we found no real power gains on the K04 by increasing the size of the CBE. By the time the exhaust gas gets that far back it has cooled and compressed enough to flow freely through the stock CBE.

Not suggesting you shouldn't try going larger, just don't expect any real gains on pump gas.

The K04 flows much better than the K03, but is subject to center shaft failure if exhaust gas temps get above 1500 degrees F. That limits boost to about 15 psi from and above 6,000 rpm. You can go as high as 20-22 psi on pump gas down low if you gradually taper beginning at 4,000-4,500.

We had a lot of K04 failures on the Mazda MZR engine due to center shaft seal failure. That was not a fault of the K04, but rather due to excess crankshaft pressure caused by a design flaw in Mazda crankcase ventilation system. You will not have that problem adapting it to the 2.0T Audi engine. But, a used K04 from a Speed 3 may have damaged seals. These "smoking turbos" can be rebuilt, so you might want to get a kit and take care of it on the front end. It did us little good to rebuild, as the high crankcase pressure would just cause the rebuilt turbo to start smoking.

We resorted to aftermarket fixes, some working, some not. One solution, which has worked for me is a hybrid turbo using Garrett GT28 series CHRA modified to fit in the K04 snail. Again, you'll not have that problem if you replace the seals.

BTW, I have a K0422-882 that I will give someone for free if you pay for shipping. It smokes and will need seals, but is otherwise in very good shape. It was replaced by a BNR stage 1, which is the K04/Garret GT28 hybrid with much more stout center shaft journal bearings and seals, but identical flow.

The K04 is good to about 310-320 whp on pump gas, after which it is outside its compressor map efficiency and just turns into a hot air flame thrower.

It has very rapid spool, incredible low end grunt and nice power to about 6,200 rpm if you taper boost, keep AFRs relatively rich and crank up timing. Make the power up top with modest boost and aggressive timing.

I will follow your thread. Keep us informed of the progress.

walky_talky20
01-31-2018, 04:38 AM
I somehow missed your original thread about the S10. That's super cool. I hope you take it to some low key car shows and steal all the attention from the tire shiners you park next to. [up]

josh baker
01-31-2018, 03:49 PM
My "other car" is an '08 Speed 3 bought new in '08 and maintained and modded by me ever since. I am tuned on a K04 and running a 3" catless dp/rp into the stock MS3 CBE, which I recall is about 2.60". The turbo benefits from the 3" free flowing dp/rp, but in the Mazdaspeed community we found no real power gains on the K04 by increasing the size of the CBE. By the time the exhaust gas gets that far back it has cooled and compressed enough to flow freely through the stock CBE.

Not suggesting you shouldn't try going larger, just don't expect any real gains on pump gas.

The K04 flows much better than the K03, but is subject to center shaft failure if exhaust gas temps get above 1500 degrees F. That limits boost to about 15 psi from and above 6,000 rpm. You can go as high as 20-22 psi on pump gas down low if you gradually taper beginning at 4,000-4,500.

We had a lot of K04 failures on the Mazda MZR engine due to center shaft seal failure. That was not a fault of the K04, but rather due to excess crankshaft pressure caused by a design flaw in Mazda crankcase ventilation system. You will not have that problem adapting it to the 2.0T Audi engine. But, a used K04 from a Speed 3 may have damaged seals. These "smoking turbos" can be rebuilt, so you might want to get a kit and take care of it on the front end. It did us little good to rebuild, as the high crankcase pressure would just cause the rebuilt turbo to start smoking.

We resorted to aftermarket fixes, some working, some not. One solution, which has worked for me is a hybrid turbo using Garrett GT28 series CHRA modified to fit in the K04 snail. Again, you'll not have that problem if you replace the seals.

BTW, I have a K0422-882 that I will give someone for free if you pay for shipping. It smokes and will need seals, but is otherwise in very good shape. It was replaced by a BNR stage 1, which is the K04/Garret GT28 hybrid with much more stout center shaft journal bearings and seals, but identical flow.

The K04 is good to about 310-320 whp on pump gas, after which it is outside its compressor map efficiency and just turns into a hot air flame thrower.

It has very rapid spool, incredible low end grunt and nice power to about 6,200 rpm if you taper boost, keep AFRs relatively rich and crank up timing. Make the power up top with modest boost and aggressive timing.

I will follow your thread. Keep us informed of the progress.

what rebuild kit did you use? the turbo i got is supposed to only have 81k on it. what mods do you have to do to fit the gt28?

josh baker
02-02-2018, 08:14 PM
turbo flange to manifold adapter made. ecu, injectors, and 3" maf housing are here. i ordered a 5bolt to 3" vband adapter but the holes dont line up. so i'll probably just make one. a friend at work runs a laser. the s10 is in the garage ready to be pulled apart. still waiting on the clutch stuff.

https://i.imgur.com/2amB6qK.jpg?2

https://i.imgur.com/0EK3fSR.jpg?2

https://i.imgur.com/hQ8VmPX.jpg?2

https://i.imgur.com/Zq4KNQW.jpg?1

josh baker
02-06-2018, 05:59 PM
so i spent all that time making an adapter to find out the control arm occupies that area. honestly, i knew it prob wouldnt fit. so im gonna do a 90 degree weld el from the mani to turbo. also ordered a 3" thick fmic. all the clutch parts are here.

this is the new location
https://i.imgur.com/xVXx2BV.jpg?1

https://i.imgur.com/zonH6Uq.jpg?1

ended up welding the adapter on. didnt want to waste it.
https://i.imgur.com/S5X6mIh.jpg?1

https://i.imgur.com/dzhUZK1.jpg?1

https://i.imgur.com/4t1BYxF.jpg?3

walky_talky20
02-07-2018, 07:39 AM
I'm loving the "make it happen" nature of this build. Nice job.

I'm sure you know this, but you want to make sure you make sure you brace the turbo to the motor pretty well somehow so you're not breaking stuff or having constant loosening/leaking issues.

GOODBYNAAIR
02-07-2018, 08:39 AM
Jeez thats alot of work ! sure your saving a buck and making something cool but [wrench][o_o]. Nice work will like to see how this ends.

josh baker
02-07-2018, 06:11 PM
I'm loving the "make it happen" nature of this build. Nice job.

I'm sure you know this, but you want to make sure you make sure you brace the turbo to the motor pretty well somehow so you're not breaking stuff or having constant loosening/leaking issues.

thanks. i make do with what i got. it will be braced once i get it locked in for sure.


Jeez thats alot of work ! sure your saving a buck and making something cool but [wrench][o_o]. Nice work will like to see how this ends.

this is fun for me. making things that arent supposed to be together go together. fabbing makes me think out of the box.

garytightpants
02-12-2018, 08:53 AM
I love seeing any posts to do with this truck. It is awesome in every way.

I also like seeing other people still getting creative with the 1.8t

GOODBYNAAIR
02-12-2018, 11:26 AM
I dont know about the truck whats the story behind it?

josh baker
02-13-2018, 05:50 PM
I dont know about the truck whats the story behind it?

not much of a story, but i traded a quad for this truck in pieces. re-assembled and daily drove it. a friend of mine one day says " hey, i know where you can get a b5 running and driving with no title for $500." jokingly i said, that would be a cool motor swap into the s10. then a few others said i couldnt do it. me and the friend that found it paid $400. so its bagged, body dropped and drags frame. 1.8 swapped, 15" blow-through system, and just overall a fun truck to drive. im 6'4" climbing in and out of this when its rockers are grounded and i live in a farm town of less than 1000 people. nobody round here knows what to think about it.

kjames1270
02-13-2018, 06:00 PM
15"? Videoo

Sent from my A0001 using Tapatalk

josh baker
02-13-2018, 06:13 PM
final turbo placement is set. the k03 flange and the ms3 flange are welded together along with the 2" weld el 90. factory oil feed fits, coolant feed fits, oil return cut, turned and extended, and coolant return re-routed. 3" aluminum maf housing with aem dry filter. the hosing will get fittings welded on for dv and n75. ended up getting a 3" intercooler so when i go bigger later, its there. since this is a body dropped s10, the front frame is what they call z'ed. so both the rad and ic are offset to the drivers side leaving this hole right to the air filter. gonna pie cut the ic pipes in a few spots and get them tig'd.

https://i.imgur.com/L1CHZh7.jpg?1

https://i.imgur.com/XKcktpU.jpg?1

https://i.imgur.com/1i44HBL.jpg?1

https://i.imgur.com/G48G84z.jpg?1

https://i.imgur.com/OM16t3Z.jpg?1

josh baker
02-13-2018, 06:29 PM
15"? Videoo

Sent from my A0001 using Tapatalk

no video.

https://i.imgur.com/3rxaCkI.jpg?1

https://i.imgur.com/K0DnwSz.jpg?1

https://i.imgur.com/eF77SQX.jpg?1


https://i.imgur.com/QWvCWpZ.jpg?1

ZimbutheMonkey
02-19-2018, 09:55 AM
Great job so far man! [up]

I like the idea of repositioning the turbo. It may make it a lot easier to get around some of the inlet/discharge piping issues I ran into when I used the stock location.

As others have said, keep us all posted as to how your progress goes.

Remarkably satisfying to consider the possibility that you can yourself a 270-290 WHP turbo setup for $1300 including all the accessories isn't it [:)]

josh baker
02-19-2018, 05:16 PM
Great job so far man! [up]

I like the idea of repositioning the turbo. It may make it a lot easier to get around some of the inlet/discharge piping issues I ran into when I used the stock location.

As others have said, keep us all posted as to how your progress goes.

Remarkably satisfying to consider the possibility that you can yourself a 270-290 WHP turbo setup for $1300 including all the accessories isn't it [:)]

thanks. i hope to be at atleast 250 whp. i will dyno it when its all done. the 3" ic piping is being tig welded right now by a friend. trans is out for the clutch swap. just about done.

kjames1270
02-19-2018, 06:09 PM
thanks. i hope to be at atleast 250 whp. i will dyno it when its all done. the 3" ic piping is being tig welded right now by a friend. trans is out for the clutch swap. just about done.What clutch setup did you go with? I'm gonna tackle all this when I do the trans swap

Sent from my A0001 using Tapatalk

GOODBYNAAIR
02-19-2018, 06:12 PM
250w will be awesome and if its on a sad dyno ill be mad, thats all I made on a heart breaker with GT286rs. well 254 in the summer heat. good luck look forward to it.

josh baker
02-20-2018, 03:47 PM
What clutch setup did you go with? I'm gonna tackle all this when I do the trans swap

Sent from my A0001 using Tapatalk

ECS ra4 flywheel with a stock luk s4 disk and pressure plate from rock auto

josh baker
02-24-2018, 12:41 PM
is this enough of a brace? the 2 flanges are welded together on both sides as well as the weld el obviously. so this is just a little extra. also got my ic pipes done. and a new coolant reservoir

https://i.imgur.com/B2t5atQ.jpg?1

https://i.imgur.com/8Igl2Mc.jpg?1

https://i.imgur.com/Y4K7VLr.jpg?1

https://i.imgur.com/lpf95he.jpg?1

walky_talky20
02-24-2018, 02:52 PM
The brace isn't overkill, but I think you'll be ok. Worst case, you just have trouble with the bolts backing out and gasket failing early. In that case, you can do something more extravagant.

I see you've got a flex section in the exhaust, which is good. It would be ideal to have the downpipe mounted to the transmission somewhere - ahead of the flex section. This takes the load off of the turbo hardware as the engine moves around.

ZimbutheMonkey
02-28-2018, 07:06 PM
One thing I might suggest if you're on the stock exhaust manifold is to take it off and port it out a bit. I was going to try it on my own A4, but I ended up putting all my resources into my S4 sedan at the moment.

Not sure how much the stock exhaust manifold holds you back (if any) compared to an aftermarket one, but it would likely net some free HP [up].

GOODBYNAAIR
03-01-2018, 06:32 AM
I feel like you could do all most the same swap\ setup with the GT25xx that come stock in the Saab turbo aero cars. There are a tone of them in the junk yard.

Nice work.

josh baker
03-01-2018, 05:57 PM
I feel like you could do all most the same swap\ setup with the GT25xx that come stock in the Saab turbo aero cars. There are a tone of them in the junk yard.

Nice work.

what year cars?

GOODBYNAAIR
03-01-2018, 09:54 PM
I have not taken them apart but just looking throw the yard most are turbo 9.3s and 9.5s from maybe 97 ish- 2005 seem to have almost the same setup. 9.3 being 2.0L and 9.5 being 2.3L. I know they run a stock Garrett turbo looks like a GT25xxx\ saab hybird with maybe a T25 exhaust mani. Note I dont follow saabs this is just me walking around the yard being a car guy. lol I may be way off.

ZimbutheMonkey
03-02-2018, 02:01 PM
Problem with the SAAB turbos are that unless it's off something like a late mode Aero or Viggen they won't flow as much as the Mazdaspeed K04.

In terms of plentiful junkyard turbos, I can't really think of many which are as well suited to a stock 1.8T as the K0422-822 in terms of both spool-up and flow rates.

GOODBYNAAIR
03-02-2018, 02:06 PM
Problem with the SAAB turbos are that unless it's off something like a late mode Aero or Viggen they won't flow as much as the Mazdaspeed K04.

In terms of plentiful junkyard turbos, I can't really think of many which are as well suited to a stock 1.8T as the K0422-822 in terms of both spool-up and flow rates.

10 -4 it was just a thought? That maybe it could be used in a similar way, But its all good.

ZimbutheMonkey
03-02-2018, 04:26 PM
Oh yeah, not saying that it's not worth considering. More of just an editorial on my part. [up]

(PS: Just did some checking and it looks like most of the SAAB stock turbos max out around 25-28 lb/min, however, you DO have the advantage of using a Garrett outline which of course gives you more upgrade options).

GOODBYNAAIR
03-02-2018, 04:56 PM
Oh yeah, not saying that it's not worth considering. More of just an editorial on my part. [up]

(PS: Just did some checking and it looks like most of the SAAB stock turbos max out around 25-28 lb/min, however, you DO have the advantage of using a Garrett outline which of course gives you more upgrade options).

HHHMMM, maybe if I get around to that B5 beater rally car one day. I'll fab up a $75 Saab yard turbo and see what is does. Thanks for the impute Monkey.

josh baker
03-03-2018, 12:32 PM
so i'm still working on this slowly. waiting on ic clamps still. everything is hooked up and it idles. im getting a p1545 code. i think i need a tb relearn, but i dont have vagcom yet. also have an oil leak on the return i gotta fix.

https://i.imgur.com/9HCLf9e.jpg?1

https://i.imgur.com/AIhYddP.jpg?1

https://i.imgur.com/WooJlgu.jpg?1

https://i.imgur.com/ghEdETE.jpg?1

https://i.imgur.com/vjD8YUr.jpg?1

josh baker
03-03-2018, 02:50 PM
Is the hex-v2 what i need?

walky_talky20
03-04-2018, 03:56 PM
This is such the sleeper-est thread title ever. It should be "DOPE S10 1.8T Swap / Legit Fab Skills Thread FTW" or something like that.

Nice pipes, sir.

Also, I feel bad for whomever has to change the rear coolant flange in the future. Somehow the truck install has appeared to make it even harder. lol

josh baker
03-04-2018, 05:43 PM
This is such the sleeper-est thread title ever. It should be "DOPE S10 1.8T Swap / Legit Fab Skills Thread FTW" or something like that.

Nice pipes, sir.

Also, I feel bad for whomever has to change the rear coolant flange in the future. Somehow the truck install has appeared to make it even harder. lol

haha, thanks. you can have it changed to that. the coolant flange is actually no bad to get to. i also put in the metal one when i first put this engine in. that cover is hiding a little space to get to it

walky_talky20
03-05-2018, 04:14 AM
Ooh, the metal one! Ebay or UroTuning?

I actually own a couple of the metal ones but have not yet installed one. How was fitment and sealing in your opinion?

josh baker
03-05-2018, 06:41 AM
Ooh, the metal one! Ebay or UroTuning?

I actually own a couple of the metal ones but have not yet installed one. How was fitment and sealing in your opinion?

i think it was from euro tuning. fit great, seals fine. i did the "porting out" i saw on the thread here somewhere. i bought it cause i didnt want to have problems after the swap

ZimbutheMonkey
03-18-2018, 11:03 PM
Josh, looking at your intake setup, I would strongly advise making it longer to allow for at least a 3-4 inch straight piece of piping in front of the MAF sensor.

The way you have it set up it's going to be highly likely that your MAF won't be reading properly. The sensor needs a straight section in front of it otherwise it will read either high or low.

I'd put a 90 degree bend in front of the turbo, then run the intake along the front of the rad.

josh baker
03-21-2018, 05:46 PM
Josh, looking at your intake setup, I would strongly advise making it longer to allow for at least a 3-4 inch straight piece of piping in front of the MAF sensor.

The way you have it set up it's going to be highly likely that your MAF won't be reading properly. The sensor needs a straight section in front of it otherwise it will read either high or low.

I'd put a 90 degree bend in front of the turbo, then run the intake along the front of the rad.

so i bought the hex v2 and did the tba. then it wouldnt even idle. after consulting some facebook peeps, they said my maf was to close to dv, needed air straightner, and needed to be mounted vertically. so i temporarily blocked the maf hole off and added the plastic 3" housing on the end. now it idles fine. i also found out i've been running my water pump backwards due to deleting the ps and fan. so im fixing that issue and have new belts on the way.

https://i.imgur.com/wV01ViZ.jpg?1

josh baker
04-04-2018, 05:44 PM
bought a silicone 90 and added a 5-6" piece in front of the maf. running real good so far. hit 20psi in fourth once. just wanted to see what i was working with. got to get this clutch broke in. hope to hit dyno day here on april 15, i think it is. thanks everyone for the help and suggestions.