RS5 carbon cleaning DIY

[Ape Factory]

Going to post both DIY videos at the beginning making them easier to find.

https://youtu.be/zlLmz4pmlSU

https://youtu.be/uQnOu0W4GGQ

Starting this thread to hopefully have a central location for a carbon clean DIY for the RS5. Once I get everything together and accomplish the task (with photos/video), we can move it over to the DIY section or I can clean up this thread and repost there. Right now it's just informational to see if I'm not thinking of something or leaving something out.

I'm trying to gather all the necessary information and parts to accomplish this task in my garage. The local Indy shop does it for $800 which isn't bad by any means (he also does a full S-tronic and rear diff change for $400!) but it looks as though it'll run me less than $250 in parts to accomplish this. And quite frankly, I enjoy working on the car.

Looking at the RS5 engine bay, it's pretty intimidating from a space/service standpoint. Luckily, the A5 line has a service position as Audi calls it, where the entire radiator and bumper assembly can get pulled forward to give you access to the front of the engine. You'll need this to access the crank and be able to rotate the intake valves for each cylinder to the closed position. I also plan to take the time to inspect all the coolant lines on the front of the engine as there have been a few reports of leaks on RS5's, especially in hot climates (I'm in one).
Here's a video that has footage of an S4 front being moved into the service position. Intimidating!


https://youtu.be/aaPnqkyo0yQ

You'll obviously need a range of tools from a torque wrench to sockets to specialty bits like torx, triple square, etc...

Thanks to a member on another Audi board, there's an adapter that allows the clean use of walnut shells, creating a loop between the media blaster, the intake port and a shop vac. This reduces the mess to almost zero if you don't have any mishaps. This is far easier and faster than doing the brush/pick method. JHM also sells an inexpensive kit that utilizes your drill which may speed things up over the "by hand" method. Big thanks to Ford Perfect for whipping this adapter up! Thread here: https://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/754242-Carbon-cleaning-w-homemade-tool-first-time-w-92k-miles?highlight=carbon+clean+adapter

Here's a photo of the port adapter:
https://s20.postimg.cc/uozix78rx/1EBCC846-8FF9-4C04-A167-80856DCF0BE9.jpg (https://postimg.cc/image/q33eoun8p/)
https://s20.postimg.cc/68hd2qfr1/B0D8B234-AF2A-49A1-94B8-CB8765B7E193.jpg (https://postimg.cc/image/43x01ne49/)

The large hole is for the shop vac and the small is for the media blaster nozzle.

I do not own an air compressor so I'll be hitting up Harbor Freight for one as well as for the media blaster and walnut shells.

Harbor Freight Media Blaster- https://www.harborfreight.com/portable-abrasive-blaster-kit-37025.html

Walnut shells, coarse grit (do not get the fine grit)- https://www.harborfreight.com/25-lbs-coarse-grade-walnut-shell-blast-media-92150.html
Some people have had issues getting the coarse grit to work so I'd suggest finding medium grit on Amazon or elsewhere. The fine grit works but it takes forever and a day according to those who have used it.

Edit: I found medium grit at Home Depot: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Agra-Grit-Walnut-Shell-Sandblasting-Medium-Grit-25-lb-per-Box-BGM25/204068198

Service Position locator pins: Audi P/N T10093 ECS tuning has them, https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-volkswagen-audi-parts/lock-carrier-tool-set/t10093~oev/
Alternately, you can use m10 x 150mm bolts from your local hardware store. The thread pitch is 1.5. A 1.25 thread pitch bolt will not work. Also, you can get away with a 100mm bolt, even a 90mm easily.

Crankshaft turning socket: Audi P/N T40058 You can get these less expensively, by a good amount, off of Amazon or eBay. I picked mine up for $20 shipped from eBay. This is pretty much the same one; https://www.ebay.com/itm/142745749122?hash=item213c4f4682

Lower intake manifold to cylinder head intake port gaskets, P/N 079 129 717 B (you'll need eight).

The FSM also mentions the upper manifold gaskets, p/n 07L129717E but does not specifically say they need to be replaced. ECS sells them for $17 EACH. https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-volkswagen-audi-parts/upper-intake-manifold-gasket-priced-each/07l129717e/ If you're higher mileage, you may want to consider replacing these.

Flare wrench set. You'll need a 14mm, 17mm, 18mm and 19mm. But honestly, you can just use regular wrenches.

Include the cost of a full fuel injector rebuild set. The teflon cylinder seals at the end MUST be replaced if you remove the injector and they WILL come up with the lower intake manifold. If you're high mileage, might be a good time to refresh the injectors/seals since you have everything open anyway.

You CAN get away without using all of the specialty tools as they're quite expensive. I just happened to have a few pieces which made the work-around very easy. Everything listed below is to get the teflon seal expanded to fit around the end of the nozzle, then shrink it back down to fit snugly in the gap in the injector nozzle shaft. I had a brake bleed kit which had several small cone adapters which were smooth (not stepped) and were also the right diameter. To shrink them, take a zip tie and reverse zip it (smooth side on the inside of the loop) and use pliers to work around the seal and shrink it back down. It works just fine but do take your time.

Injector seal tools, all Audi part numbers (you can probably substitute for the first three:
♦ Puller - T10133/2A-
♦ Hammer - T10133/3-
♦ Nylon Brush - T10133/4-
♦ Assembly Cone - T10133/5-
♦ Guide Sleeve - T10133/6-
♦ Calibration Sleeve - T10133/7-
♦ Calibration Sleeve - T10133/8-
♦ Injector/Combustion Chamber Seal Tool Set - T10133B

You can also buy a kit off of Amazon or similar (link below) or rent a tool kit. Here's a video on what the kit does exactly, followed by another video using a work-around method. I took the method further and used a zip tie that was wider than the seal, turned it inside out to use the smooth edge, and then used a pair of pliers to help shrink the seals down.

https://youtu.be/boVEdoayfn4

https://youtu.be/WUfVeO2SJUs

Here's a kit on Amazon for under $100. https://www.amazon.com/engine-Injector-Puller-Removal-Installer/dp/B07D6QY2L9/ref=sr_1_34?keywords=combustion+chamber+seal+tool+ kit&qid=1566764479&s=gateway&sr=8-34

Also, SSSSS5 found that AutoZone has the toolkit and you can rent it from them. It's tool kit number 8877.

https://s20.postimg.cc/8k0peks5p/injector_seals.jpg (https://postimages.org/)

Here's the Audi OEM injector repair kit which is three pieces per pack (you need eight!); 06E998907C
If you're an Audi Club member, it's a 10% discount. Came out to about $126 for a full set of eight. Not cheap. Other Audi kits don't seem to be compatible. ECS Tuning does sell these too. It's a wash cost-wise as with my discount, the per kit price was less expensive but it evens out with tax (still a sliver less expensive locally with the Audi club discount). https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-volkswagen-audi-parts/fuel-injector-repair-kit-priced-each/06e998907c/

After you've refreshed the injectors, you do not need the special tool to put them back in either. A socket which is larger than the injector but fits on the metal injector support will work. Just tap in softly with a rubber mallet. There's a cutout in the injector port and that's space for the electronic plug coming off the injector. So the passenger's side will point towards the rear of the car, the driver's side towards the front.

LASTLY, intake manifold "grommets". You'll see me mention these in the video and in this thread. They're easy to loose. The Audi part number is 06E 133 588. These are the small metal/rubber spacers used to secure the upper intake manifold to the lower. They're cheap so order two or three in advance in case you manage to make one disappear when pulling off the upper intake manifold.

[Beast]

What is your mileage right now? I have yet to hear about an RS5 going in for carbon cleaning.

[Ape Factory]

37K. I do get a few cold start misfires but that could be a software update sort of thing. I'm just assuming there is some carbon buildup and it's just part of owning an FSI Audi. I'm going to call JHM and see if they carbon cleaned their RS5 yet. My other option is to just pull the upper portion of the intake manifold and have a look. That's not too tedious.

[JoshDub]

I did it on my S5 (V8). I just used a rag to catch the excess fuel from the lines.

As far as the vacuum actuated intake valves, I think you're over thinking it. The valves aren't under vacuum while the engine is off, so why would you need to use vacuum when R&Ring?

If you're walnut blasting, get some of that thin plastic painters drop cloth. The shells will get everywhere. Being able to just pull up the cloth for cleanup is a million times easier than trying to vacuum shells out of every nook and cranny.

[Ape Factory]

Yep, already have the painter's drop plastic. The adapter, if used correctly and no media blaster catastrophic failures, should keep the walnut shells to a minimum. It seals off the port and walnut media is sucked out with a wet/dry vac as you spray.

I was reading a portion of the engine repair manual and it mentions using a hand-held vacuum pump to apply vacuum to the diversion valves to have them in the proper position when reinstalling. I'll see if I can post an image here.

For the fuel lines, the FSM (factory service manual) mentions pulling the fuel pump fuse with the car running until the fuel pressure reaches (off the top of my head) 85psi via Vag-Com monitoring. It mentions you'll to remove several lines along the back side of the engine to get the LIM off and to retighten all the fittings to 25nm. I know it's not super hard, just trying to avoid any unnecessary work or tampering.

[JoshDub]

I had a similar thing that sealed off the port, with a vacuum attached and everything. It still made a mess. The media just gets everywhere.

[Ape Factory]

Here's a blurb from the manual. A hand vacuum pump is pretty inexpensive so I'll grab one of those.
https://i.postimg.cc/05MSssrc/vac_pump.png (https://postimages.org/)

Edit: After completing the carbon clean, IMO, it's necessary to have one of these. A simple brake bleeding hand pump works just fine. You can check they work correctly after cleaning as well as after the LIM is bolted down securely.

[Ape Factory]

What is your mileage right now? I have yet to hear about an RS5 going in for carbon cleaning.

Forgot to post a reply but there are threads out there. Here's one in particular. I had to go to photo bucket and excruciatingly suffer through all the ads to find the photos but what I saw was not good. Not RS4 bad but the RS5 isn't immune.
http://*******************/forum/index.php?topic=3793.0

Just shoot me a PM and I'll send you the link. Didn't realize the forum got butt hurt to links on other Audi sites. You can also do a search for Audi RS5 carbon cleaning. Link that doesn't work is on Audirevolution.

There are a few others out there of folks who've gotten cleanings. I drive mine daily and I'm sure that helps but I'm curious how bad it is at this point.

[ICU2]

Interested as well, similar mileage on mine but a year older so.......... U R certainly more adventurous than me, best of luck w/this.

[JoshDub]

Anthony is super butthurt over audirevolution. I think other forum links like audiworld and quattroworld work.

[Ape Factory]

What's the back story? Aren't we all grownups? I'm pretty new round these parts so not privy to the office politics. Certainly not a newb to internet forums though. I've experienced plenty of drama on many, many other forums, LOL. Wait. Did I just derail my own thread?

[Fourplay]

A few thoughts, based on my RS4 carbon cleaning experience:

If you can get the car to hold a gear (especially 2nd or 3rd - not sure if possible with S Tronic), you don't need to put the car in service mode, it can just be pushed back and forth to close valves.

Fuel lines don't need to be bled, just turn the car off, pull the fuel pump fuse, crank for 3-5 seconds a few times, and you're good to go. When you unscrew the fuel lines with 2 wrenches, do it slowly and have rags underneath to catch the fuel.

As for the vacuum, when you disconnect the vacuum hose from the port shown in the graphic from the manual, the intake flaps will close and you'll hear a hiss as any remaining vacuum is released. The car has vacuum reservoirs and generates its own vacuum to operate the sport exhaust and intake flaps. When you reinstall the runners and reconnect the vacuum hose, it'll work fine again, so no need to have a vacuum pump or anything.

Finally, the intake manifold gaskets are reusable, so no need to order new ones.

Also, I would highly recommend hand cleaning rather than walnut husks. It's easier to tell if ports are fully sealed, makes much less of a mess, and less potential for a catastrophic engine failure from walnut bits getting in the engine. You can use a wire brush drill and carb cleaner and it'll come out pretty easily.

[Ape Factory]

Appreciate the feedback!

I probably don't have enough room in my garage to move the car back and forth enough to do it that way.

Fuel lines...yeah, that's what the FSM says to do. They want you to hook the diagnostics up to the car (vag com in my case) and let the car idle til the fuel pressure drops to 80psi.

On the flaps, the FSM make it seem like the flaps need to be put into a certain position for reinstallation, hence the use of vacuum to have them in the open position during reinstallation. I'll go through the FSM again and it'll all probably make more sense one way or the other once I get the intake manifold off.

Are you sure on the gaskets? FSM says to replace them. Probably cheap insurance.

I'm torn on the walnut shells...more complex and as you said, potential for more mess. I'd just like to make it as easy as possible from a labor standpoint.

[mcbuck]

Any update on needed parts or supplies? First ever cold start misfire this morning, so it's time. Putting my list together and looks pretty straightforward.
I need to pick up a FSM and decide best solution for soak (not doing walnut shells). JHM has a cleaning kit with a couple of picks and brush, may pick up a couple of those.
Will update as I progress.

[Ape Factory]

I think I have a few more parts to add. Just been super swamped as of late. One suggestion is to have a few injector seal kits on hand in case you accidentally pull some out while removing the lower intake manifold.

I’ll try to update my list tomorrow when I have more time.

[Ape Factory]

Ok had a few moments over lunch. Added some fuel-related stuff.

[mcbuck]

What happened to this thread?? Seems to be missing a lot of stuff that was previously posted? Now that fall is here and we're not on the lake every weekend, time to get this done. Getting supplies and parts together. No worries about the actual job, just a little trepidation about putting in service position.

[Ape Factory]

As far as I can tell, there was just one bad link to the vacuum image after my hosting site, postimage managed to screw their server up. I've updated that but everything else is still there.

Been waiting for things to cool off in my neck of the woods as well and I now have to find time to do this. I originally thought I had misfires but that was just the warmup cycle and fuel hitting the cats to get them hot quickly. The Audi FSM in PDF format doesn't have instructions on service position that I could find. I found it using ElsaWin on my laptop.

I'll most likely shoot a how to video of this too.

[Ape Factory]

I managed to get my ElsaWin back up and running on my PC laptop. It has instructions for the service position. They're not super detailed but detailed enough. I'll try to make a few screen grabs and post here over the next few days. But like I said, when I do this, I'll probably take a day off of work and do a full video how to for the carbon clean. Will probably take me a good, solid two days to do it this way due to the video end of things. I'm targeting late October or early November.

Alternatively, if anyone wants ElsaWin, shoot me a PM.

[danidoza7]

Please PM a link to the video when completed. Very interested in doing a carbon clean myself. I did it a few times on a 4.2L S5, but I’d be happy to take some pointers before going in my my RS5 just to be on the safer side of dodging any headaches


Sent from my iPhone using Audizine (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=87676)

[Ape Factory]

Ill post it here when done. I may split it up into two videos, one for service position and one for the carbon clean.

[Ape Factory]

Carbon clean is a week away. Walnut media is arriving around Friday and I have everything else needed. I plan on doing a full service position clean as I'm going to replace the accessory belt while I'm in there and clean all the heat exchangers (and anything else I find!). Serviced the differential today, both sides, and the transmission is getting a full fluid change tomorrow.

[ARrrrSfive]

Awaiting this with great interest! Thanks for documenting and sharing.

[boostinfd]

Looking forward to the DIY.

[Ape Factory]

My 25 pound bag of ground walnut shells arrived today so I should be good to go this weekend. I've got a friend coming over to help with the visual end of things too so that should speed things up.

[Ape Factory]

I completely forgot to get the locator pins. Can anyone verify the locator pin for service position thread pitch? I may have screwed myself thinking I could just go to the local hardware store and get an M10 bolt in a 150mm length. Seems no one stocks it. I "think" the thread pitch is 1.5. Local Audi dealer doesn't sell tools.

[Ape Factory]

Found some M10x1.5 100mm bolts at True Value (Ace in other states). That should probably give me enough room to get a wrench on the crank and hopefully change the accessory belt while I'm in there assuming they're the right pitch.

Edit: The bolt is an M10x1.5 and the 100mm length is plenty. Honestly the hoses and everything else that you leave attached keep the front end from sliding out further.

[Ape Factory]

I managed to take the front bumper off (super easy) and get the car into service position today. I quit earlier this afternoon but may go back out and remove the upper and lower intake manifold if I'm bored. Otherwise I'll do that first thing tomorrow morning and then start carbon cleaning.

No real gotchas other than the fuel pump fuse. I pulled #3, 25A, brown fuse block on the driver's side. Double checked the manual, yep, correct one. Car ran and ran and ran. I finally gave up and shut it off. I didn't want the car to heat up any further as I needed to drain a bit of coolant. I'll just wrap the hpfp lines with rags and tons of paper towels. Edit; IMO, the fuel lines depressurize overnight. There was gas in the lines but not under pressure. The return line underneath the lower intake manifold held the most gas so be sure to stuff extra rags/towels under those (one per bank).

Took lots of interesting photos and measured a bunch of stuff. For the life of me, I have no idea how JHM will get a supercharger down low like the S5 kit without a lot of cutting. Anyway, was tons of fun and interesting to get the front end apart. Audi manages airflow pretty well. As complicated as they make everything else, the front bumper and the service position was fairly straightforward.

https://i.postimg.cc/kG7yGNHV/RS5-Garage.jpg (https://postimg.cc/G8SDSDdr)

[Ape Factory]

Lots of carbon. Still going at it. No longer fun.
https://i.postimg.cc/nrFjnzPZ/5527-FF69-45-BA-46-A9-985-D-2-B0-D7-EC5-AA9-F.jpg (https://postimg.cc/S2PNry4t)

[JamesRS5]

That actually doesn’t look so bad Michel, what’s the mileage on yours?

[matt310]

That actually doesn’t look so bad Michel, what’s the mileage on yours?


I was just going to say the same thing. That ^ looks *nothing* like how the B7 RS 4s looked when torn apart. I'm actually pretty impressed with that initial photo.

[Ape Factory]

That's the good one. Some of the others were much, much worse. I pulled out chunks of carbon the size of a pea which were stuck to the side of the valve. Took me about 45 minutes per cylinder just to clean. One tip, make sure you have a big, high power compressor that'll push over 125psi of air. I had to go in with picks in between blasting to scrape off the larger chunks. It was truly hellish. You'd think "hey that looks good" and then going in with the pick would yield enough carbon to cover the bottom of the valve. Over and over again.

I did manage to get the engine back together and fired her up for the first time tonight. Took a while to pressurize the fuel system but she fired right up and most importantly, no leaks! There are more than a few gotchas with the lower and upper intake manifold. Enough so, I'd rate the difficulty of this task at 8 out of 10. Ten would be engine removal.

Figure in the cost of eight fuel injector rebuild kits. No way around it, they will pull up with the lower intake manifold. That caused a day's delay as I had to order eight rebuild kits with combustion chamber seals. Luckily I got them overnight.

[Ape Factory]

Here's a few more images really quick.
https://i.postimg.cc/7P9Jm35L/E1135548-26-B6-4-E56-B641-BA1499-DC9-B78.jpg (https://postimg.cc/kDV55tFr)
https://i.postimg.cc/k4dRhwN2/9-CD53-B51-C237-4-F1-C-8-AA5-1448-EDD5938-C.jpg (https://postimg.cc/4KB3Y6SG)
https://i.postimg.cc/pXdh7mjJ/38317-F22-0-C66-42-F0-AA30-8403639-FEFE9.jpg (https://postimg.cc/QVRdKx0F)

Almost clean.
https://i.postimg.cc/fbYJXm4D/B7-D20958-CDB0-437-D-A20-A-F7-C7-E000-D58-A.jpg (https://postimg.cc/HJsY1Jsh)

[Ape Factory]

Out and about in the car for the first time. Fires up with a bit more snap, idles a hair smoother too. It’s raining so no thoughts on the power front just yet.

[BuyTheWarranty]

Hey Michael, how many hours do you think this took + supplies? Some local shops who specialize in Audi charge 1400-2000 to do this. Also, what was your mileage, 45,000 miles?

[Ape Factory]

It's easily a two-day job. If I had a really large compressor and wasn't shooting photos/video (and had done it at least once before!) I could get it done in a day. I'm at 51,000 miles (about 82,000 Kilometers).

You will need a good amount of mechanical skills and precision due to a few of the "gotcha" items which I'll detail at some point soon.

I will say this...the weather was spotty, raining at my house, but in other spots it was bone dry and I had a few opportunities to get on it. I feel like the midrange is greatly improved and the top end definitely has more zing. It was noticeable even with the car idling for extended periods and fully warmed up.

Here's a list of the tasks needed to accomplish this not necessarily in order.
-Bleed off fuel pressure
-Remove front bumper
-Remove undertray
-Put car into "Service Position" which pulls the entire front bumper/radiator assembly forward
-Drain a bit of coolant from the front crossover pipe
-Remove upper intake manifold
-Remove lower intake manifold
-Remove injectors (they WILL come up with the lower intake manifold)
-Install new teflon combustion chamber seals and o-rings on injectors
-Clean the crap out of the injector bores and all mating surfaces
-Clean crap out of the LIM intake ports and flappers
-Replace (at least) the LIM to intake port gaskets
-Carbon clean eight cylinders at 45 minutes a cylinder
-Install injectors, oiling the o-rings and the boss they fit into on the LIM
-Install the LIM (fairly straightforward but a few "gotchas"
-Install the UIM (major pain in the ass)
-Remove car from service position and align
-Re-install front bumper and align
-Re-install under tray
-Crank car a few times to prime system and fire her up
-Add coolant and bleed system if necessary

I also replaced my accessory belt while I was in there and did some cleaning of the heat exchangers.

[Ape Factory]

Just going to post some photo porn and will organize and update the thread as I have more time.

Intake port with divider installed
https://i.postimg.cc/CMRT4Pb7/IMG-1051.jpg (https://postimg.cc/9zHnmB8w)
https://i.postimg.cc/T2B8NV96/IMG-1049.jpg (https://postimg.cc/5j5k6FT7)

A big chunk of carbon
https://i.postimg.cc/Twk7b6kx/IMG-1080.jpg (https://postimg.cc/hzd1FHWZ)

If you look at where the valve meets the cylinder wall, you can see gummed up carbon there. That has to be cleaned with a pick. It also collects around the base of the valve guide, particularly on the back side where airflow is a bit more stagnant.
https://i.postimg.cc/MpMc6gdc/4A0C7A2B-8EBB-4D0C-9187-F538E7612A58.jpg (https://postimg.cc/87GkwX8D)

The engine valley and ports fully exposed. If that shot gives you the willies then carbon cleaning is not for you!
https://i.postimg.cc/ZqNv3FV5/JF40915.jpg (https://postimg.cc/2qz5NWss)

https://i.postimg.cc/nrGvmYVD/JF40890.jpg (https://postimg.cc/CndBT8qh)

One LIM removed, one to go. They're a total b*tch to get off especially when you're trying NOT to pull out the injectors. Just go with it. Pull and plan on replacing the seals on all the injectors. No way around it. Poor design Audi.
https://i.postimg.cc/mgtHZG9M/JF40912.jpg (https://postimg.cc/mPWDVJ82)

Take lots of detail shots so you know how everything goes back together. That one torx screw holding down the fuel line separator? I managed to bolt it down to the boss just to the left. And that's for the LIM (lower intake manifold). I couldn't figure out why that last bolt wouldn't go in!
https://i.postimg.cc/FzNShdbs/JF40898.jpg (https://postimg.cc/LYQ5Ts0r)
https://i.postimg.cc/vHXrHzNR/JF40896.jpg (https://postimg.cc/3d44tgh9)

Back side of the UIM (upper intake manifold). There's one plug, for the driver's throttle body which is extremely difficult to remove and back on. It's on the same side as the passenger's instead of designing a new one with the plug on the outside. Thanks Audi.
https://i.postimg.cc/VkGW4Rq9/IMG-1139.jpg (https://postimg.cc/G4DDmvS9)

UIM underbelly.
https://i.postimg.cc/dVt98Xyt/IMG-1137.jpg (https://postimg.cc/XpmFWsLT)

Clean fuel injector bores, runner dividers and ports.
https://i.postimg.cc/Wb7nqjtH/IMG-1125.jpg (https://postimg.cc/1ff6bkGG)

Clean bore left, dirty right. Use a gun cleaning kit or order some twisted wire brushes online.
https://i.postimg.cc/2yh0KZkk/IMG-1100.jpg (https://postimg.cc/wRx5t3RZ)

Correct part number for the RS5 injector rebuild kit. It's three pieces and includes the combustion chamber seal. Not sold separately. A full set ran me about $120 with my Audi Club discount. If you think ahead, you can save about $10 through ECS for a full set (8). https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-volkswagen-audi-parts/fuel-injector-repair-kit-priced-each/06e998907c/
https://i.postimg.cc/0NyHyjfn/IMG-1093.jpg (https://postimg.cc/k2LyjnLR)

Injector with the old seals removed.
https://i.postimg.cc/B68Y2zR1/IMG-1097.jpg (https://postimg.cc/TL6J6tdR)

That's the business end of a shop vac in the foreground with a small piece of clear plastic tubing strapped to it using electrical tape. I could see when the walnut shells were flowing this way. I completely sealed off the rest of the car but found it unnecessary with the port adapter and removed it all. If your'e fairly careful, it's easy to keep the walnut shells contained.
https://i.postimg.cc/9MzSJ0w0/IMG-1086.jpg (https://postimg.cc/Fd5DK9ZX)

Clean port dividers!
https://i.postimg.cc/3xKttNPh/IMG-1102.jpg (https://postimg.cc/8j0d5ppX)

[Ape Factory]

So the biggest "gotcha" other than the injectors pulling up with the lower intake manifolds is the spacer/grommet setup on the upper intake manifold. I'm experienced and have taken many an engine apart. Maybe I was just tired but I completely zoned out on this little detail.

Here's a photo of the grommet with the bolt removed.
https://i.postimg.cc/sxWjxsz6/1-E818151-9426-419-C-B7-FF-5-A846-F1-D7-D1-E.jpg (https://postimg.cc/rR8XY6Kx)

Now there are 10 bolts, ten grommets and 10 spacers. The spacers are the "gotcha". When you remove the bolt, DO NOT remove the grommet. It holds the spacer in place. If you remove the grommets, all of the metal spacers will spill out the bottom and into crevices henceforth unknown, undocumented, and not located on any map. You will then be forced to fish around the engine's V with a flashlight and a magnetic retriever. One managed to fall down the front of my engine and lodge itself on a ledge on the bottom of the car. Sheer dumb luck that I found it.

Chances are, when pulling the UIM up, you'll loose one or two anyway. I haven't looked to see if you can get a set separately, but I'd highly recommend that you have at least for or five sets on hand when you pull the manifold. Just in case. Audi lists this as a "decoupling element".

It's number 4 in the diagram. But it's two pieces. One is the grommet which is a metal disc with a rubber insert as well as a spacer which is a metal tube with a flat bottom lip. This keeps the torque on the grommet and spacer and not on the plastic portion of the intake manifold. Because of the flat bottom (lip) on the spacer, it does not lift up and out of the intake manifold. It would have been far easier just to allow removal from the top. But oh well. My pain, your gain.
https://i.postimg.cc/SsfRCXVY/Intake-Manifold.png (https://postimages.org/)

The second potential gotcha can be avoided as well. If you have ACC (adaptive cruise), the manual states it'll need to be recalibrated if you put the car into service position. I carefully marked the bolts before removal and put the lock (front bumper support/radiator/cross bar) as close to where it was before (easy to do if you pay attention) and bolted it back down. I had no issues with my ACC after.

The third gotcha is the cap for the high pressure fuel pump lines. There's one each on the lower intake manifold, left and right. The cap can slide all the way down with ease while installing the LIM on the driver's side. So much so that with the LIM in place, the cap gets "caught" between the LIM and the block and you cannot get it past the block without unbolting it lifting the LIM slightly. So take note of where that cap is before pushing fully down to seat the LIM.
https://i.postimg.cc/133zcxrt/IMG-1107.jpg (https://postimg.cc/LnGR2b7K)
https://i.postimg.cc/fRqR8H8v/JF40908.jpg (https://postimg.cc/5XvJ0mdH)

[Ford Prefect]

Kudos to you for tackling this on an RS5! Beautiful car.

Overall this is extremely similar to the 3.0T with the SC being the only real difference. The injectors get stuck in our manifolds too and your huge black upper intake manifold is about the size of our SC. Plus its very intimidating when all that stuff is off, damn rats nests of hoses and pipes and lines.

Your carbon, although not like a B7 apparently, is much worse that the 3.0T.

Kudos again.


Sent from my iPhone using Audizine (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=87676)

[Ape Factory]

It's not too bad in the valley. All the hoses are shaped so it's pretty obvious where they go. I had a third gen RX7 and THAT has a rat's nest. I can't remember off hand but there were at least 50 vacuum lines all connected to a similar vacuum proportioning box. Was a complete nightmare and one of the big mods was the "zip tie" mod where you zip tied all the lines so one didn't blow off.

[Ford Prefect]

It's not too bad in the valley. All the hoses are shaped so it's pretty obvious where they go. I had a third gen RX7 and THAT has a rat's nest. I can't remember off hand but there were at least 50 vacuum lines all connected to a similar vacuum proportioning box. Was a complete nightmare and one of the big mods was the "zip tie" mod where you zip tied all the lines so one didn't blow off.

Yeah the 3.0T is like that too. It just looks messy. I forgot you were an FD guy, I was an FC guy myself, could never afford an FD lol. Vacuum hoses still abounded though.




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[Ape Factory]

So after two days, besides the performance improvement, the one thing I noticed was cold starts aren’t as cantankerous and I was indeed hearing extra pops before the carbon cleaning. The VCDS logging never showed any misfires though so if you hear a handful of pops and booms on cold start, it’s probably an indicator you have some carbon buildup.

[Robert7x]

I’m curious how hard would it be to do all this without the sea shells... using cleaners and brushes. I’m going to have to do mine soon.

[Ape Factory]

I’m curious how hard would it be to do all this without the sea shells... using cleaners and brushes. I’m going to have to do mine soon.

Hard to tell. Would really depend on how bad your ports are. It'd be a lot messier, that's for sure. And probably take longer. If you let it sit in whatever chemical you're going to use overnight, would be highly beneficial

[Ford Prefect]

I’m curious how hard would it be to do all this without the sea shells... using cleaners and brushes. I’m going to have to do mine soon.

It’s more labor and probably more money with all the disposable carb cleaner. I was bent over enough just getting to the point to clean, wasnt interested in more manual cleaning.

And you guys have two more cylinders. No thanks.


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[Ape Factory]

I jacked the car in the air and put it on lifts so I wouldn't be bending over as far. Made it a bit easier.

With the walnut shells, it'll be necessary to have the media feeder, compressor and a shop vac. Plus the walnut shell media itself.

I bought a small, really quiet compressor at Harbor Freight. And it really is quiet. The shop vac was easily three times as loud.
https://www.harborfreight.com/2-gallon-12-hp-135-psi-ultra-quiet-oil-free-professional-air-compressor-64596.html

I'll get around to putting a full list together here soon. Had to work the holiday and relatives arriving tomorrow. My turkey day is Sunday :)

- - - Updated - - -

I jacked the car in the air and put it on lifts so I wouldn't be bending over as far. Made it a bit easier.

With the walnut shells, it'll be necessary to have the media feeder, compressor and a shop vac. Plus the walnut shell media itself.

I bought a small, really quiet compressor at Harbor Freight. And it really is quiet. The shop vac was easily three times as loud.
https://www.harborfreight.com/2-gallon-12-hp-135-psi-ultra-quiet-oil-free-professional-air-compressor-64596.html

I'll get around to putting a full list together here soon. Had to work the holiday and relatives arriving tomorrow. My turkey day is Sunday :)

[Ape Factory]

I’m curious how hard would it be to do all this without the sea shells... using cleaners and brushes. I’m going to have to do mine soon.

One thing I forgot to mention is I did experiment with nothing but walnut shells and picks, carbon cleaner first, then walnut shells and picks and lastly, walnut shells and picks first, then carbon or carb cleaner at the end. I found the last method, walnut shells, then picks, then more walnut shells followed by either carbon deposit or carb cleaner (two different products). There is a slight dust residue left over with the walnut shells and that helps remove it and leaves the intake ports nice and shiny along with the valves.

Doing the liquid cleaner first seemed to slow down the effectiveness of the walnut shells and it took longer. Using nothing but liquid, brushes and picks, it's probably double your time per cylinder. I'd definitely coat and soak everything overnight if you do it that way. And have about a dozen rolls of paper towels on hand. You'll still want a compressor to blow out the ports and/or a shop vac for cleaning purposes. I completely vacuumed the car's engine bay, the vee, the areas usually not accessible, etc...

[matt310]

Great write-up and thank you for sharing the detailed pics. What a process to clean, holy cow. Audi should license Toyota's D4-S system or develop one themselves; it's clear DI engines need a secondary injector port-side to keep breathing freely as the miles tack on.

[Ape Factory]

Had to look up what the D4-S was. The fact it runs a cleaning cycle while idling for extended periods is interesting. The fact Lexus has been using it for 10 years angers me. Audi could have done the same.

I think Audi's newer engines do have both port and direct injectors. I know the 2.5L TFSI found in the TTRS and RS3 does anyway. Not sure if the new 2.9L RS5 engine does (can't find any technical references to a port injector) as it's been around for a while, housed in a Porsche wrapper.

[Ape Factory]

Audi RS5 carbon clean DIY

***I highly recommend you have a factory service manual on hand. I had it in electronic form but also printed out certain sections to have them on hand as a quick reference. Where to get manuals: https://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/817161-How-to-download-factory-service-manuals-for-your-Audi?highlight=service+manual

Tools needed
(2)M10x1.5 bolts, 100mm in length
-Magnetic retrieving tool (very important)
-Basic socket sets, metric, in 1/4, 3/8 and 1/2" sizes. Audi likes to use 13mm, 16mm and 18mm with regularity so keep that in mind.
-Open end metric wrenches in various metric sizes, particularly 14mm, 17mm, 18mm and 19mm but have a full compliment on hand
-Torx bit set, particularly T25, T27 and T30
-Bit holder socket (1/4" is probably best)
-Triple square set, particularly M8, M10 and M12
-Torque wrench that'll read down to 10Nm. I bought a 1/4" torque wrench for the small bolts
-Long breaker bar (3/8"). I use the aluminum handle on my jack over a 3/8" breaker bar. This is optional for accessory belt replacement.
-Assortment of power tools. I have a battery-powered drill as well as a small impact battery-powered impact gun.
-Shop Vac
-Air compressor
-25 pounds of medium grit walnut shells
-Harbor Freight portable abrasive blaster kit
-Carb cleaner (three cans sufficed) and not to be confused with carbon cleaner below
-Specialty carbon cleaner of your choice (one can)
-Denatured Alcohol and Acetone
-Pick set
-A few rolls of paper towels
-Shop rags
-Rifle bore cleaning kit (Walmart!) for the injector bores
-A number of good light sources big and small including a small LED flashlight
-Jack stands or a lift
-A gallon of distilled water
-Container to drain coolant into

Links for what I purchased above

A quick note on the compressor I purchased. It's very small, extremely portable and very, very quiet. That last part was important. I will say a larger compressor with an inline water filter will work faster.

Walnut shells- https://www.homedepot.com/p/Agra-Grit-Walnut-Shell-Sandblasting-Medium-Grit-25-lb-per-Box-BGM25/204068198
Compressor- https://www.harborfreight.com/2-gallon-12-HP-135-PSI-Ultra-Quiet-Oil-Free-Professional-Air-Compressor-64596.html
Picks- https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000N31ZVC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Triple square socket set- https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01FOQJO4C/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Torx screwdriver bit set- https://www.walmart.com/ip/45in1-Torx-Precision-Screw-Driver-Set-Mobile-Flexible-Kit-for-Cell-Phone-Laptop-Pad-ETC-Repair-Tool/158339402
Magnetic bit holder 1/4"- https://www.amazon.com/Irwin-Tools-4935070-Square-Magnetic/dp/B0040UBLO0/ref=sr_1_10?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1543253348&sr=1-10&keywords=IRWIN+bit+holder

For lights, I had a few different ones. The coolest by far is the Braun under-hood LED light. It's round but has hexagonal end caps so you can position it and it won't roll. In addition, the end caps unscrew to expose a length of attached rope. There are hooks on the end and this allows you to adapt the light to different width hoods. You can even hang it from your garage door rails for an overhead light when needed. It's also cordless, rechargeable and has a low and high setting. Seems pretty rugged too.
https://www.harborfreight.com/845-lumen-underhood-rechargeable-work-light-63990.html

https://i.postimg.cc/2yVZnFr7/Braun-LED-light.jpg (https://postimg.cc/8fgcSvF7)

I also used smaller work lights. Not sure if they'd be better on a stand or not.
https://www.harborfreight.com/420-lumen-led-work-light-63278.html


Audi-Specific Parts
(1) Audi crank adapter tool, part number T40257
(8)Injector Rebuild kits part number 06E998907C
(8)Lower intake manifold to head gaskets part number 079129717B
(1)Accessory belt part number 079903137AG
(1)Gallon of Audi G13 Coolant part number G013A8J1G
(2-3) Upper intake manifold grommet/spacers 06E-133-588 in case you drop and loose one or two while removing the upper intake manifold.

Links
Injector rebuild kit- https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-volkswagen-audi-parts/fuel-injector-repair-kit-priced-each/06e998907c/
LIM gaskets- https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-volkswagen-audi-parts/lower-intake-manifold-gasket-priced-each/079129717b/
Accessory belt- https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-volkswagen-audi-parts/accessory-belt/079903137ag/

Cliff notes version of all the steps necessary to complete the cleaning
-Bleed off fuel pressure
-Jack car up and put on four lifts
-Remove front wheels
-Remove front bumper
-Remove main under tray like you are changing the oil from
-Drain a bit of coolant from the front crossover pipe
-Go through steps to put the car into "Service Position" which pulls the entire front bumper/radiator assembly forward
-Remove upper intake manifold
-Remove lower intake manifold
-Remove injectors (they WILL come up with the lower intake manifold)
-Install new teflon combustion chamber seals and o-rings on injectors
-Clean the crap out of the injector bores and all mating surfaces
-Clean crap out of the LIM intake ports and flappers
-Replace (at least) the LIM to intake port gaskets
-Carbon clean eight cylinders at 45 minutes a cylinder
-Install injectors, oiling the o-rings and the boss they fit into on the LIM
-Install the LIM (fairly straightforward but a few "gotchas")
-Install the UIM (major pain in the ass)
-Hook up all the coolant and electrical lines that were removed
-Install a new accessory belt (easier with two people but can be done with one)
-Remove car from service position being careful to align it back up to where it was previously
-Re-install front bumper and align
-Re-install under tray
-Crank car a few times to prime system and fire her up
-Add coolant and bleed system if necessary

LIM=Lower Intake Manifold
UIM=Upper Intake Manifold
LPFP=Low Pressure Fuel Pump
HPFP=High Pressure Fuel Pump

Step One
You'll need to lower the fuel pressure in the rails prior to and after the high pressure fuel pumps. On the RS5, you'll need to pull the 25W fuse for the LPFP. It's the middle fuse panel, third from the top. Start the car first, then pull the fuse. Rumor has it, the fuel pressure will eventually die enough that the car dies. Mine ran and ran and ran. I gave up and shut the car off and moved on. I didn't end up opening the fuel lines for another 8-10 hours (next day) and there was fuel but none of it was under any real pressure. Your results may vary. Jack the car up and put on four jack stands using the reinforced seam weld jack points. I use a jack puck and jack stand protective rubber covers. I chose to jack the car up so I would not be bent over as far. I'm 6'3" so this makes a difference. Adjust to your comfort level. It will make it slightly difficult to reach some of the plugs on the back of the engine. Keep that in mind and adjust the height accordingly.

Step Two
Loosen the front wheel lug nuts. Just a tad so they can be easily removed after the car is up in the air. Jack the car up and put on four jack stands using the reinforced seam weld Audi-specified jack points. I use a jack puck and jack stand protective rubber covers. I chose to jack the car up so I would not be bent over as far. I'm 6'3" so this makes a difference. Adjust to your comfort level. It will make it slightly difficult to reach some of the plugs on the back of the engine. Keep that in mind and adjust the height accordingly.

Step Three
We're now going to remove the main under tray/splash shield. You will also want to remove the lock carrier cover (big piece of plastic that covers the intake ducts up top) both intake assemblies as the ducts are bolted down to the lock carrier. I have the Eventuri intakes so it's a bit easier than OEM. No need to remove the coils or plugs as I'm assuming the injectors will come out.

This is an exploded view of the under tray and a few other components. Numbers 8, 15 and 18 all come out as one piece. The duct, #9, is held to the under tray by two bolts which must be removed. Otherwise you'll pull it out along with the under tray.
https://i.postimg.cc/6QDf8hHV/Main-Undertray.jpg (https://postimg.cc/HJ9yKb1j)

You'll want to remove the five bolts, T30 torx if I remember correctly, in either wheel well. See diagram.
https://i.postimg.cc/sX797Z8k/Wheel-well-bolts.jpg (https://postimg.cc/CBMqVdw7)

The main under tray is primarily held in place by five M8 triple square bolts (they may be M10, can't remember) and five T30 torx bolts at the leading edge.

The factory diagram is different from my car but if you take a careful look it'll be obvious what bolts need removing and which ones don't.
https://i.postimg.cc/cCW7mLGr/Undertray.jpg (https://postimg.cc/G8Ms3r2C)

Don't forget the two bolts which hold the duct to the under tray.
https://i.postimg.cc/3wyZrqZJ/Undertray-duct-bolt-removal.jpg (https://postimages.org/)

With the rear-most triple square bolts removed, the pan will drop straight down at the back. You'll still need to untangle it a bit from the rest of the bodywork to fully remove it.

Step Four-Front Bumper Removal
We're ready to remove the front bumper now. It's fairly straightforward, being held on by two 10mm bolts on either inner fender, two T30 Torx bolts near the top of the grille and a few clips. Additionally, there's a forward under tray which is bolted to the composite radiator support structure from underneath.

To remove the bumper under tray from the radiator support bracket, loosen the four T30 bolts.
https://i.postimg.cc/0jD0sJPk/Bumper-undertray.jpg (https://postimg.cc/MfZQ0HnN)

Remove the lock carrier cover in the engine bay (it covers the gap in between the bumper and the radiator) which is held on by the four plastic rivets.

We'll want to remove part of the wheel well lining to get access to the two 10mm bolts securing the bumper to the fender. Since we've taken off the five T30 torx bolts earlier, there are only a few fasteners needing removal to pull the lining back far enough to gain access to inside the fender.
https://i.postimg.cc/rwwBj8qn/wheel-well-liner.jpg (https://postimg.cc/jLB3dYwP)

By removing those two fasteners, you'll have enough room to pull the liner back and gain access to the two bolts and a clip securing the front bumper to the fenders. It's the same on both sides. The clip at the bottom can be partially pushed out with a long, flathead screwdriver. The two bolts are 10mm and are fairly easy to get off.
https://i.postimg.cc/cJ8hbLYJ/Bumper_removal1.jpg (https://postimg.cc/bGp1G8mX)

Next is an emotionally difficult part...grabbing the bumper just below where it meets the fender in the wheel well, pull towards you gently but with some force. The bumper is flexible and held to the side with clips. It's not as bad as it sounds and it'll unclip fairly easily.
https://i.postimg.cc/X7mfHLbR/Bumper-side-clips.jpg (https://postimages.org/)

There are two more bolts to remove, on either side of the grille up near the lights. Both are T30 Torx. Once you remove those, the bumper will not fall off. There are two more clips, on either side of the grille which necessitate you pulling forward to release them. The entire bumper will come off at this point.
https://i.postimg.cc/0ySpLS5b/IMG-0928.jpg (https://postimg.cc/871Jvj6S)



Step Five-Service Position
Putting the car into service position by moving the lock carrier (entire radiator assembly) forward is fairly easy at this point. It's held on by three 16mm bolts. You'll be replacing the bottom outboard bolt with the M10x1.5 100mm bolts and that's what the entire lock carrier will slide out on.

First you'll want to drain a bit of coolant. I drained approximately two liters and it served my needs. You drain a bit as there are coolant hoses connected to the UIM and you'll want to remove one connector in between the coolant reservoir and the radiator.

On the underside of the car, in between the oil pan and the radiator support is the lower coolant cross pipe. It has a plug which can be loosened by a T30 Torx bit. It was on there firmly and the plug is supposed to be replaced as it has an integrated washer. I haven't figured out the part number for that plug yet so I snugged back down firmly when I was done. Loosen it and coolant will come pouring out so have a appropriate container to catch the coolant. Do not reuse the coolant.
https://i.postimg.cc/ZqC2pVJC/Coolant-Drain.jpg (https://postimg.cc/wtYwd5yp)

With the coolant drained and the plug reinserted so it's no longer leaking, it's time to start unplugging various connectors and at least one hose. I removed many hoses and connectors in the front end which I believed would be necessary in order to put the lock carrier in service position and ultimately, it was all for naught.

The one coolant line I felt necessary to remove was the line leading from the coolant overflow tank to the top of the radiator on the passenger's side. Because the lock carrier moves forward, it would force that line to bend. Yes, it's rubber but it has turned hard with time and I did not want to put any stress on the line. It's simple to remove, simply pull up on the metal clip with a flathead screwdriver and then push the connector towards the rear of the car and off the radiator nipple. Treat it gently.
https://i.postimg.cc/V6FhcTRZ/overflow-connector.jpg (https://postimg.cc/cgrhRFPf)

There are two electrical connections which must be undone. The first is the plug for the parking sensors and the plug for the Homelink if your car is so equipped.

The parking sensor plug is the most obvious, it's right up top in between the radiator and bumper support.
https://i.postimg.cc/9QjngZyQ/Service-postion-1.jpg (https://postimg.cc/dL46L7Wb)

The second electrical connector for the Homelink is harder to see and down in between the bumper support and the radiator. Unplug it and you're done. Nothing else needs to be unplugged. Not the lights, no other radiator hoses, nothing.
https://i.postimg.cc/kXSHyf6H/Service-Position-2.jpg (https://postimg.cc/pp2kWQBQ)

Disconnect the hood latch cable. It's fairly easy and you won't have to re-adjust anything when you put it back together. It's in the engine bay on the driver's side attached to the main support beam. It's held on by two clips. You'll need to remove the entire rectangular assembly from the clip and then pull on the driver's side of the cable to release the flip-open cover. Once open, pull the driver's side end out of the mechanism.
https://i.postimg.cc/XJxhWWDr/Hood-Latch-2.jpg (https://postimg.cc/qhhQcPrr)

https://i.postimg.cc/wBXZWLXc/hood-latch1.jpg (https://postimg.cc/wtBwMtb7)

https://i.postimg.cc/dt0FLH2M/hood-release-cable.jpg (https://postimages.org/)

Now that everything has been disconnected, it's time to unbolt the lock carrier and install the longer M10 bolts so we can slide everything forward. In addition to the three bolts for the lock carrier, there are two support bars that run diagonally from the outer corner of the front bumper composite support to the front subframe on the bottom of the car. There are two bolts you'll be removing, both are 13mm if I remember correctly. A short socket is fine as they're easily accessed.

The lock carrier bolts are 16mm and the long replacement bolt is imperial but I think I got away with an 17mm socket. A short socket is fine but you'll want a long extension, about 6-8". I used my small impact gun to loosen and remove them. They're not on there very tight.

You'll want to do the BOTTOM OUTSIDE BOLT FIRST. Once you remove this bolt, install the longer bolts and then remove the other two, one below and one up top. If the top bolt falls out of the socket, just use your magnetic tool to retrieve it.

https://i.postimg.cc/g2W1Kn9P/lock-carrier-bolt2.jpg (https://postimg.cc/bsm6yYN6)

https://i.postimg.cc/2jgsV02y/lock-carrier-overall.jpg (https://postimg.cc/6TLjPfsx)

https://i.postimg.cc/G90xd8P3/lock-carrier-bolt1.jpg (https://postimg.cc/xNRzPdFB)

https://i.postimg.cc/kX8k8Wpc/lock-carrier-alt-view.jpg (https://postimg.cc/9rm8HwVR)

https://i.postimg.cc/WpDRNBmx/lock-carrier-support-bracket.jpg (https://postimg.cc/9zjg1NnB)

There are two last bolts to remove up top along the top of the bumper/radiator support, one on either side of the car. Both are T30 torx.
https://i.postimg.cc/YqtWmLMW/lock-carrier-last-bolt.jpg (https://postimg.cc/HjPxqxJY)

Once you have everything disconnected or removed and the lock carrier resting on the longer bolts, you'll simply pull forward on the crash bar. One tip, I used some dry silicone lube on the bolts to help things slide forward. I don't really think it's needed or if it actually helped as it was fairly easy to get the lock carrier to slide forward. It won't slide forward very far though as there are many hoses, coolant and oil line hoses, that basically spring it back. You only need a bit of room to get a tool onto the crank (more on that later). You will be disappointed in how far forward it moves. It is what it is.

Here's a decent shot illustrating how much room you'll have at the front with the lock carrier in the service position.
https://i.postimg.cc/JhMPdnvm/JF40877.jpg (https://postimg.cc/WdYGd2sf)

With the car in the service position, it's now time to remove the upper and lower intake manifolds.

Here's a video for the service position how to;
https://youtu.be/ABMYaGlohSc

Carbon cleaning part 1 now live...

https://youtu.be/zlLmz4pmlSU

Carbon cleaning part 2 is now live...

https://youtu.be/uQnOu0W4GGQ

[ARrrrSfive]

I admire your attention to detail, as well as greatly appreciate the undertaking and documenting. Great work!!!

[Ape Factory]

Upper Intake Manifold Removal

The first round will essentially be unplugging a whole lotta stuff. A little tech tip if you do not trust yourself, take painter's tape and each connection that you separate, whether it be electrical, coolant hoses or otherwise, mark each side with the tape and write a corresponding letter on the ends that connect together. I will say this...most of the lines and connectors are routed as such that it'd be hard (but not impossible) to mix them up so use common sense. And take photos with your smartphone for reference!

We're going to start at the back with the PCV valves. They're the two big round things in between the throttle bodies. A single torx screw holds each one on. The end of the tube connects to the breather ports on the valve covers. Pinch that end off first, then remove the two bolts. While you're back there, you'll need to remove each and every hose that's attached to the manifold. Pliers work fine.
https://i.postimg.cc/0jtNXLT8/UIM_bolt_clamp_removal_PCV.png (https://postimages.org/)

What it looks like in real life. Note, the FSM left off a few hoses so again, use common sense and look at everything. It'll be obvious what needs to be removed.
https://i.postimg.cc/d154GV2w/PCV-removal.jpg (https://postimg.cc/dkT2YvNx)

There is one vacuum line which connects from the passenger's side intake elbow to the PCV system elsewhere. The UIM has a metal grab handle (or support depending on how you look at it) and this vacuum line literally loops around it and prevents you from lifting the UIM up and off the engine. You'll need to snake that vacuum line through a bundle of hoses and wires and away from the back of the intake manifold. I've outlined the hose in red. By the time you go to remove this line, the PCV valves and other hoses should be off making it much easier.
https://i.postimg.cc/nhyRx1fm/Problem-line.jpg (https://postimg.cc/pmBYYzTV)

We're going to unplug the throttle bodies next. Obviously there are two throttle bodies and there are naturally two plug connectors. Each connector has a little pink tab which you pull straight back with the aid of a screwdriver. Once you've unlocked the connector, it's easy to get off.

Here's the photo from the FSM. The arrows are the throttle body (throttle valve) connectors and the 1 & 2, in blue are the evaporation hoses which must also come off.
https://i.postimg.cc/7YW63r19/throttle-valve-and-evap-hose-removal-UIM.png (https://postimages.org/)

Real life, passenger's side. The plug on the driver's side is inboard, not on the outboard side. It is quite hard to get to and disconnect so be patient with it.
https://i.postimg.cc/sxSmq4FD/throttle-body-connector.jpg (https://postimg.cc/64WCGR5D)

Most of the connectors are on the back of the intake manifold but there are some on the front. Looking at the FSM diagram, #1 are two vacuum lines that come off fairly easy. #2 is the MAP sensor plug and #3 is another vacuum line. Disconnect all of them. #1 is under the manifold and you can pull them off as you lift the UIM up.
https://i.postimg.cc/Vk0N4ZD8/UIM-Plug-and-hose-removal.png (https://postimages.org/)

With all the lines disconnected, it's time to remove the ten UIM bolts (T30 Torx) which secure it to the two lower intake manifolds (one for each bank). Loosen them in a cross pattern, 1-10 as listed below. THIS IS VERY IMPORTANT. DO NOT REMOVE THE METAL GROMMET BELOW THE BOLTS. LEAVE THEM IN PLACE.
https://i.postimg.cc/HLGkN0h7/BOLT_Loosening_Sequence_UIM.png (https://postimages.org/)

Pay careful attention. I've circled #4 and #5 in the diagram below. Five is the bolt. #4 is actually two pieces. One is the metal/rubber grommet visible underneath the bolts you just removed. The second is a metal spacer with a lip on one end. Due to that lip, it cannot be lifted out the top. It'll only come out the bottom. If you remove all the grommets and lift the intake manifold up, those ten small tubular spacers will go tumbling every which way into the engine's vee and perhaps further, never to be seen again. Leave the grommet in place. In fact, before removing the UIM, inspect each one closely and if need be, seat the grommet even further by pushing down on it so it's fully engaged with the spacer.
https://i.postimg.cc/C52CNFF8/UIM-EXPLODED.jpg (https://postimages.org/)

Here's a photo of the grommet with the spacer still installed on the UIM. The second photo is a closeup of just the grommet. Note the middle is rubber and is what "grabs" the spacer and holds it in place. No, it's not very secure which is why you need to make sure it's fully seated around the spacer.
https://i.postimg.cc/9FT1p77F/Fucking-grommet.jpg (https://postimg.cc/mtLQZhj0)

https://i.postimg.cc/FHTSgrDH/Effing-Grommet-2.jpg (https://postimg.cc/MnjXz8CC)

Here's an UIM dowel spacer that fell very close to an intake port
https://i.postimg.cc/65nV9rWJ/Dowel-spacer.jpg (https://postimg.cc/0b5KnJKc)

Once all ten bolts are removed, look over all the connections and make sure you have anything necessary removed. It'll take a bit of force to separate the upper from the lower as the gaskets "seal" with heat. So it'll come off suddenly. Be prepared. Once you're able to separate it from the LIM, double check everything is disconnected. The harness on either side of the UIM will prevent the manifold from lifting up so you'll have to wiggle the UIM up and out from underneath the harness, the engine hoist bracket and a few lines. If you haven't disconnected the vacuum lines at the front/underneath the UIM, do so now that you have more space. And watch the spacers/grommets! If one falls off, at the very least, listen and look to see where it goes. If it falls into the valley, you'll be removing enough that you'll be able to find them down there.

You'll be left with this;
https://i.postimg.cc/nrGvmYVD/JF40890.jpg (https://postimg.cc/CndBT8qh)

Lower Intake Manifold Removal

The LIM is difficult to remove for one reason alone; the injectors. Mine were "stuck" in the LIM fuel rail and as such, when I pulled either side up, no matter how I tried, the injectors would go with them. No way around it. With 50K on the clock, those OEM o-rings had pretty much sealed themselves to the injector bungs.

If you're prepared for the above with rebuild kits for all eight injectors, it's relatively straightforward. It still necessitates a good deal of force to pull each LIM up and off the heads. Keep that in mind.

Here's an exploded view of the LIM. Note, ALL of this comes up together as one piece except for the fuel return line (#13)
https://i.postimg.cc/43tm4295/Lower-Intake-Manifold.png (https://postimages.org/)

We'll need to remove the vacuum chamber in the vee of the engine. It's held on by three (two on the left, one on the right) T30 bolts to a bracket. You'll only need to remove two vacuum lines; the smaller one coming off the top of the chamber nearest the rear of the engine as well as one connected to the front via a solenoid. You'll need to unplug the solenoid as well.
https://i.postimg.cc/7PQ01B6y/LIM1.jpg (https://postimg.cc/0rDzP0Dt)

Closeup shots of the bracket it's bolted to. Note how it's situated when you remove the vacuum chamber.
Driver's side
https://i.postimg.cc/SKYCdpNq/_JF40893.jpg (https://postimg.cc/t1ysRwxm)

Passenger's side
https://i.postimg.cc/PrdbjcKz/_JF40891.jpg (https://postimg.cc/QVnKgf2H)

With the vacuum chamber removed, this is what you'll see. Now is a good time to fish out those dowel spacers if you dropped any in the valley.
https://i.postimg.cc/NjM1yH3K/_JF40894.jpg (https://postimg.cc/dLb7pLtF)

Take lots of photos and notice how the fuel line spacers are situated and where.
https://i.postimg.cc/vHXrHzNR/_JF40896.jpg (https://postimg.cc/3d44tgh9)

https://i.postimg.cc/c1R7PZ7L/JF40897.jpg (https://postimg.cc/Btv11rwr)

https://i.postimg.cc/FzNShdbs/JF40898.jpg (https://postimg.cc/LYQ5Ts0r)

Remove both fuel return lines. Make sure to stuff plenty of rags underneath to absorb the fuel that will spill out. There's one for each bank and if I remember correctly, they were 14mm (or 17mm) nuts. They're not on tight and you can mark them with a sharpie to make things easier and not over tighten them when it's time to reassemble everything. It'll make it easier if you unplug all of the injector plugs prior. Note the passenger's side injector plugs point towards the rear and the driver's side towards the front.
https://i.postimg.cc/ydhsP6cb/FI-pugs-fuel-return.jpg (https://postimg.cc/YGS52HX6)

https://i.postimg.cc/3R98jbF5/Fuel-Return2.jpg (https://postimg.cc/R66x4dYX)

https://i.postimg.cc/1tyRqZ6r/Fuel-Return1.jpg (https://postimg.cc/XZD6Rmsr)

Remove the high pressure fuel pump lines. Stuff a rag underneath although I did not have any fuel come out of mine. Again, mark the nut with a sharpie so you don't over tighten them. There's two lines on each side. Once those are loosened, remove all the fuel line brackets pictured earlier to give you wiggle room.
https://i.postimg.cc/0j4qczXP/HPFP1.jpg (https://postimg.cc/0K73NyqB)

https://i.postimg.cc/0j4qczXP/HPFP1.jpg (https://postimg.cc/0K73NyqB)

There are several electrical connectors on the passenger's side LIM towards the front which need disconnecting including the fuel pressure sender pictured below as well as one on the vacuum actuator for the intake runner flapper system.
https://i.postimg.cc/rpQK2Qvy/Fuel-pressure-Sensor.jpg (https://postimg.cc/Y4Lp1frT)

There's one matching electrical plug on the driver's side near vacuum actuator for the flaps which needs removing. It's number 5 in the exploded diagram. One on each bank.
https://i.postimg.cc/43tm4295/Lower_Intake_Manifold.png (https://postimages.org/)

With all of the connections removed, it's time to remove the bolts holding the LIM to the head. You'll be removing them in a cross pattern. The top side bolts are longer and have a different head shape from the bolts along the bottom. Make mental note. Both are T30.
https://i.postimg.cc/j2ZTp886/HPFP-line-LIM-bolts.jpg (https://postimg.cc/n9jN71fM)

With the bolts, fuel lines and electrical connectors removed, grab the LIM by either end and lift straight up. You may need to use a small side-to-side wiggle motion to gently rock the injectors loose from either the fuel rail bung or from the injector ports in the head. You may get lucky and not all of them will come out. It will take a good deal of force!

Shot of both LIM's after removal. Old LIM to head gaskets pictured in background. The yellow/green gaskets up top are also replaceable but extremely expensive. Don't damage them. They're like $25 each. Ridiculous. FSM says to replace but they're fine to reuse.
https://i.postimg.cc/mkfwCgQ0/IMG_1118.jpg (https://postimg.cc/7G90yDtV)
https://i.postimg.cc/26BG1ZBQ/IMG_1106.jpg (https://postimg.cc/njpB5M2r)

[Ape Factory]

Closeup of one bank after the LIM was removed. The injectors are still in there but they did come up slightly, enough that I knew I'd need to replace the seals.
https://i.postimg.cc/2SMBVXdt/JF40913.jpg (https://postimg.cc/fV7bPCr7)

Overall of the engine valley with the LIM removed.
https://i.postimg.cc/ZqNv3FV5/JF40915.jpg (https://postimg.cc/2qz5NWss)

The next step is to remove all eight of the port dividers in the intake runner. Just use a pair of thin or needle nose pliers. Grab each side by the "D" shape, wiggling the divider and going from one side to the other as you pull up. Pull all of them and soak in some sort of carb or carbon cleaner. You'll clean them off and reuse them. The protruding dimple faces down when you go to reinsert them back into the intake runners..

https://i.postimg.cc/QNqP9PZ8/Port-Divider-Removal.jpg (https://postimg.cc/V5d42KNp)

I took the injectors and punched holes in a cardboard box, labeling each injector so I know which one goes where. No real "need" to do this but what the heck. The new gaskets are already on (top o-rings are blue in the rebuild kit, the originals were brown).
https://i.postimg.cc/s2b9Cg0v/IMG_1122.jpg (https://postimg.cc/1gcNpsSQ)

New LIM to head gaskets but more on that later.
https://i.postimg.cc/C5G4Np7d/IMG_1114.jpg (https://postimg.cc/H8L5YKfC)

Gratuitous shots of the LIM just because. How often do you actually see them?
https://i.postimg.cc/jqPvKyTK/IMG_1120.jpg (https://postimg.cc/Z0Y6xB0D)
https://i.postimg.cc/ZKz7yVHC/IMG_1109.jpg (https://postimg.cc/bdLH70Kh)
https://i.postimg.cc/BnMMks0K/IMG_1108.jpg (https://postimg.cc/VJ0q0x5f)
https://i.postimg.cc/mrnVZwhZ/IMG_1107.jpg (https://postimg.cc/LqzjNjzG)
https://i.postimg.cc/d034KXsS/IMG_1105.jpg (https://postimg.cc/kVrxQTtx)

Dividers cleaned and ready to be installed after the carbon cleaning.
https://i.postimg.cc/3xKttNPh/IMG_1102.jpg (https://postimg.cc/8j0d5ppX)

Carbon Cleaning
I know this is the step you've been waiting for. In the photo below, I've taped everything off except the port I'm cleaning. Additionally, I laid drop cloth in all four directions. In the end, the drop cloth, if you're careful, isn't necessary.

IT IS necessary to tape off the ports you're not cleaning and TAPE OFF THE INJECTOR PORTS TOO!

After I was done cleaning a port, I'd tape it back over and mark the tape with an X.

https://i.postimg.cc/VsxTWYfs/IMG_1081.jpg (https://postimg.cc/5jmnxWQD)

With the car in the service position, there's enough room to get a 3/8" breaker bar down there. I'd originally purchased a specialty tool for Audi which supposedly fits in the crank's snout. See pic.
https://i.postimg.cc/T1FtkcMH/IMG_1073.jpg (https://postimg.cc/zHwwvKfn)

Well, it does not fit. In fact, there's nothing but a bored out cone in the center of the crank. No threads, nothing. Somehow I had the wrong adapter. What you actually need is part number T40257 which fits over all the harmonic damper bolts. Here's one place to get it but they're on eBay as well; http://www.baumtools.com/shop/VW-Audi/13-Engine-Crankshaft-Pistons/T40257-VAG-Crank-Turning-Too#.XACeui3MzOY

I was in a pinch since I didn't have the proper tool. The harmonic damper bolts are M8 triple square bolts. By inserting the bit in just one, you can easily turn the engine with the injectors removed. It was actually shocking how little friction there was. To be safe, I'd get the adapter. It's like $35.
https://i.postimg.cc/sgPKqGfV/T40257.jpg (https://postimg.cc/683dG3GS)

Shot from the FSM. Just ignore the arrows and other bit, just showing you how the adapter fits in there and what the crank end looks like.
https://i.postimg.cc/Nj05qWB5/crank-end.jpg (https://postimg.cc/crVsfkKS)

Once you have your bit and breaker bar attached, rotate the crank until the valves in the cylinder of your choosing are closed. Just watch the valves aided by a flashlight as you rotate the crank slightly. It'll be obvious when they're closed and they'll stay closed for a decent sized duration of crank rotation. Another little tip...usually one or two other ports are fully closed. This'll save you time rotating the crank.

Test that they're closed by putting a bit of gas in the port with a syringe, carb cleaner even. If, after a minute or two, the gas is still in there, you can begin carbon cleaning with the walnut shells.

My logistical modus operandi was as follows:
-Blast with walnut shells moving the nozzle around to try and get all areas of the port.
-Flip the adapter 180 degrees and repeat.
-Remove the adapter and inspect
-Go over the ports and valves with the picks, loosening carbon that's stuck in the crevices of the valve seat as well as behind the valve guides (two worst spots)
-Put the adapter on, switch to the air nozzle, blow compressed air in and suck the chunks out
-Blast again, repeating the 180 degree rotation
-Pick at everything again, blow out with compressed air
-Blast once more and then blow out with compressed air
-Spray in carb cleaner (not carbon deposit cleaner) and wipe the ports out with disposable paper towels. Rinse and repeat until the runner walls and valves shine.
-Tape the port back over, mark with an X and move on to the next one.

Here's a short teaser video of what the process looks like

https://youtu.be/zrbkQCK1EZc

Once you get through with carbon cleaning the ports, we'll want to take several preparation step before reassembly.

Since the injectors are out, the injector ports in the head need to be cleaned and spotless. There is a factory service cleaning kit that you can probably track down or even purchase small diameter twisted wire nylon or soft brass brushes. A rifle (gun) cleaning kit also works. I bought mine at Walmart for about $7.

I did clean out the bores by shop vac and hand first to remove any grit. Using the brushes and carb cleaner left the injector port walls with a mirror finish. I also cleaned the smaller bore where the injector nose/seal sits.
https://i.postimg.cc/X7K2Kd1x/IMG-1101.jpg (https://postimg.cc/nCzYpjJQ)

Clean injector ports and the dividers reinstalled.
https://i.postimg.cc/Wb7nqjtH/IMG-1125.jpg (https://postimg.cc/1ff6bkGG)

With the injector ports cleaned, plug them up with some paper towel so nothing falls in them. Make sure the rest of the mating surface between the head and where the lower intake manifold sits is completely clean. Wipe it down with your cleaner of choice and finish off with denatured alcohol. Spotless is ideal.

You can also re-install the port dividers. Remember, the dimpled protrusion goes on the down side.

To R&R the injectors, you'll need the rebuild kit which consists of a new teflon seal, a top o-ring and a split ring shim. You can only buy them as a kit. Each kit contains these three elements so you'll need eight kits. ECS does sell the kit. Alternatively, if you're an Audi Club member, the 10% discount actually makes it a slightly less expensive alternative. My dealer does not stock the kits. I had to overnight them from the Fort Worth distribution center. It was an extra $14. Won't break the bank but do plan ahead and have the kits prior to pulling the injectors. Worst case scenario, you can send back unused kits if you manage to have an injector or two that decide to stay put.

The kits. Note they're made in Italy.
https://i.postimg.cc/0NXXMvXs/IMG_1095.jpg (https://postimg.cc/B8DBkrGY)

Here's an injector prior to having the new kit put on. The original top o-ring is brown, the new are blue. The shim and the teflon seal look the same.
https://i.postimg.cc/hG9wKyKd/Injector.jpg (https://postimg.cc/5H2p3mY4)

To get the old teflon seal off, use a small utility or hobby knife to simply cut them off. Be gentle as you don't want to gouge the injector with the blade. The o-ring comes off easily with a small pick or even your fingers.

Here's an exploded view of all the injector components from the FSM.
https://i.postimg.cc/cHxD0dDp/injector-exploded-view.jpg (https://postimg.cc/B8z5Cffp)

The tricky part to the injector rehab process is getting the teflon combustion chamber seal installed. The seal itself is malleable. It'll stretch and you can also compress it. As it comes out of the package, the seal's inside diameter is smaller than the outside diameter of the the injector's tip. The seal sits in a groove with a smaller outside diameter than the shaft. To get the seal onto the injector, it needs to be expanded. The best way to do this is with a cone.

Here are some excerpts from the FSM using the specialty tool which costs about $200. I'd recommend purchasing the tool but it can be done without it if you're careful and detail oriented.

First step, slide the seal onto the expansion cone.
https://i.postimg.cc/qB5dbFqJ/seal-installation-1.jpg (https://postimg.cc/NLmVLpRS)

Second step, push the seal onto the expansion cone further with other half of the audi tool using a twisting motion.
https://i.postimg.cc/BQPfdCPx/seal-installation-2.jpg (https://postimg.cc/QHDz71bt)

Third step, line up the expansion cone and twist with the other half of the Audi tool until the seal slides over the end of the injector and into the groove.
https://i.postimg.cc/zv6Zyy6b/seal-installation-3.jpg (https://postimg.cc/QKQnPdXh)

With the combustion chamber seal in the injector's groove, continue to twist the tool and it'll shrink the seal back down.
https://i.postimg.cc/zv6Zyy6b/seal-installation-3.jpg (https://postimg.cc/QKQnPdXh)

I had a bit of luck rigging up my own kit. I had an old brake bleeder I'd pulled out to use the vacuum pump to pull back the flappers on the LIM. It included a number of adapters designed to fit various hose sizes. The adapters were cones, made of a very hard, smooth plastic. It almost has a silky feel to it if that makes sense and a very low coefficient of friction. Since it was a long cone, I just cut it at the point where it was the same size as the end of the injector. Perfect! I also had a small plastic cylinder that was just the right size to push the seal on and expand it. Once you get to a certain point, you can actually do it with your digits. I wore clean latex gloves when handling the seals.

Here's the cone I used, next to a guitar pick for size reference. Worked like a charm.
https://i.postimg.cc/8cMQrpSZ/1-A150-FB6-6-DF2-4-FA1-B834-452373-BB5592.jpg (https://postimg.cc/V0fHxc5t)

Now I did not take any photos of me shrinking the seals back down as it's a two-hand, delicate job and I wanted to concentrate. I took a properly-sized zip tie (same width as the seal) and reversed it so the smooth side was on the inside. I shrank it down so that it still fit over the seal and then used a pair of pliers to press against the outside of the zip tie and worked my way around the outside of the seal. It won't completely shrink back down but it was enough that the injectors went in easily (with a bit of pressure which is normal) and I'm not experiencing any issues.

I'm a sticker for doing things the right way and I honestly recommend getting the tool. I was in a bind, not knowing how easily the injectors come out and it caught me unprepared. Live and learn. There were enough people online that do it with the zip tie method that I felt comfortable doing it that way.

One you have the injectors rehabbed, insert them back into the injector bores. DO NOT PUT ANY LUBE ON THE INJECTORS! NOTHING ON THE TEFLON COMBUSTION CHAMBER SEALS. VERY IMPORTANT!

The injectors should slide in 80% of the way and it'll require a bit of careful force to push them in all the way. Be gentle. Take careful note of the cutout in the head for the injector electrical connector and make sure it's oriented in the right direction before trying to push it all the way in the bore.
https://i.postimg.cc/50ZjV2gg/injector-orientation.jpg (https://postimg.cc/CBswCYWn)

Closeup of an injector almost seated in the bore. Find a socket that sits flush with the support ring and use a rubber mallet to softly tap the injector in place.
https://i.postimg.cc/3Jh1wWrG/IMG_1129.jpg (https://postimg.cc/jC8Pgx7q)

LIM Reinstallation
With everything clean and the injectors in place, it's time to reinstall the LIM. Make sure you've lubed the injector o-rings. I also put a thin coat on the injector bungs in the lower intake manifold.

You'll want to clean out the LIM runners and flappers a bit as they can become caked with oil over time and stick open/closed. Clean them and then make sure they're functioning properly with the vacuum pump. Clean the green, LIM to UIM gaskets on top with denatured alcohol.

The last thing you'll want to do before installation is install the new LIM to head gaskets. They're the red ones on the bottom. They're stuck in there somewhat but they come out fairly easy with a small pick. Install the new ones by pressing them into place and you're good to go.
https://i.postimg.cc/jqPvKyTK/IMG_1120.jpg (https://postimg.cc/Z0Y6xB0D)

[Ape Factory]

With the injector o-rings lubed, position the LIM and line up the injector bungs in the LIM with the top of the injectors. Before you press down, make sure the high pressure fuel line nuts are up where they should be. They can slide all the way down to the LIM and get pinned between the LIM an the block.
https://i.postimg.cc/133zcxrt/IMG-1107.jpg (https://postimg.cc/LnGR2b7K)

Attach the vacuum pump and open the flaps fully.
https://i.postimg.cc/nh4mGgZr/flapper1.jpg (https://postimg.cc/RW0qMPWx)
https://i.postimg.cc/htWxxgkN/flapper2.jpg (https://postimg.cc/6ycyxs5h)

With everything lined up, push down on the LIM until the bottom sits firmly on the head. Slip the nine bolts into their respective homes, the long bolts on top, the shorter, button head bolts on the bottom.

The tightening sequence is in a diagonal pattern in stages up to 9Nm.
https://i.postimg.cc/j2ZTp886/HPFP-line-LIM-bolts.jpg (https://postimg.cc/n9jN71fM)

At this point there are no real gotchas except for the spacer/grommets on the upper intake manifold. Just take it slow as you put everything back in place. The vacuum hoses are all shaped so it's fairly obvious where they go.

With both LIM's in place, make sure all the fuel lines are routed correctly and loosely place the fuel line separators around the fuel lines and bolt them down loosely so you can still move everything if needed. Once you have everything installed where it should be, tighten the fuel fittings. These include the return line on the bottom of the LIM (both sides) and two on each high pressure fuel pump. You do not have to crank them. In fact, do NOT crank them. Torque all of the fuel fittings to 25Nm (18ft. pounds). That ain't much.
https://i.postimg.cc/3R98jbF5/Fuel-Return2.jpg (https://postimg.cc/R66x4dYX)

With the fuel lines tightened, bolt all of the fuel line separator brackets down securely. There's four of them.
https://i.postimg.cc/Y0wsStzB/fuel-line-seperators.png (https://postimg.cc/0McfWR4V)
https://i.postimg.cc/3JQk3zMj/Fuel-Line-Bracket.jpg (https://postimg.cc/3W98BSxW)
https://i.postimg.cc/xd3RPLKh/Fuel-Line-real.jpg (https://postimg.cc/06rDkMX0)


Plug the injectors in as well as all of the electrical fittings you can reach now and probably not later. This includes the fuel pressure sensor, passenger's side at the front side of the rail. It's easy to miss and/or forget.
https://i.postimg.cc/zB91Fmwx/Fuel-Pressure-Sensor.jpg (https://postimg.cc/9RtScnn9)

With all of the electrical fittings in place, re-install the brackets for the vacuum chamber. If you've forgotten which way they go, take the two brackets (one on each LIM) and the vacuum reservoir and line everything up. It'll be obvious which way they go in as the vacuum chamber sits snugly in a space within the engine's valley. Things can only go in one way.
https://i.postimg.cc/VNph3qS6/Reservoir-bracket.png (https://postimg.cc/bG0Ln29c)

With the brackets in place, line up the vacuum reservoir. Check to see which vacuum lines need to be plugged back in before fully securing.
Here's a photo from earlier with the reservoir in place.
https://i.postimg.cc/7PQ01B6y/LIM1.jpg (https://postimg.cc/0rDzP0Dt)
https://i.postimg.cc/ydRGBD9T/vacuum-reservoir.png (https://postimg.cc/bDzg9NmG)

Check all the vacuum lines and electrical plugs at the front of the engine in between the two LIM banks. Make sure everything is attached properly otherwise you'll be pulling the LIM again to find out what you left off. Not fun.
https://i.postimg.cc/0NVW7LRh/vacuum-and-plugs-pre-UIM.jpg (https://postimg.cc/mcFysprS)

Check ALL the plugs and vacuum lines once more. Make sure everything is on securely. At this point we're ready to re-install the UIM.

Torque specifications (two steps)
1-Tighten bolts 1-10 in order listed to 8Nm
2-Tighten bolts 1-10 in same order to 11Nm

https://i.postimg.cc/CL15nx8d/Intake-Manifold-bolt-tightening-sequence.png (https://postimages.org/)

First things first, clean the mating surface for each intake runner on the bottom of the UIM. You can use denatured alcohol. Resist ANY urge to unbolt the upper and lower portions of the upper intake manifold to see what's inside. I have a feeling it's sealed and those seals would not be easy to replace. So tempting though.
https://i.postimg.cc/RFXQLTxh/Clean-UIM.jpg (https://postimg.cc/nj9DHBzf)

Torquing everything down correctly is the easy part. The hard part is getting it back in with all the spacers and grommets intact. I found the wiring loom running in between the heads and the intake manifold to cause interference. You'll also need to loop the passenger's side PCV hose back through the handle/support brace on the rear of the UIM after you get it semi-situated and in place.
https://i.postimg.cc/g0GZt6DZ/UIM-hangups.jpg (https://postimg.cc/Jsd0G0Sr)

With the spacers and grommets, just make sure they're pressed in place good and tight and make a concerted effort to not bang the UIM on anything or jar it excessively. It'll take some fiddling and patience but it will go in.

Be sure to plug in the driver's side throttle body while you can still move the UIM around. Makes things much easier.

After installing the UIM, go over all of the various electrical, coolant, vacuum and PCV connections on the back of the manifold and make sure they're securely attached and the clamps are all in the proper location. Do the same for the front of the UIM.
https://i.postimg.cc/Vk0N4ZD8/UIM-Plug-and-hose-removal.png (https://postimages.org/)

For what it's worth, in this diagram, I never removed the #3 clamp which is the hose that loops around the UIM support bar. It's easier to just snake it through everything.
https://i.postimg.cc/0jtNXLT8/UIM-bolt-clamp-removal-PCV.png (https://postimages.org/)

Front vacuum connections.
https://i.postimg.cc/Vk0N4ZD8/UIM-Plug-and-hose-removal.png (https://postimages.org/)

Some of the connections on the rear.
https://i.postimg.cc/7YW63r19/throttle-valve-and-evap-hose-removal-UIM.png (https://postimages.org/)

Push the PCV pressure regulating valves back on and bolt them down to 4.5Nm. Re-attach the other end to the top of the valve cover.
https://i.postimg.cc/sfW5Xyv1/PCV-tighten.jpg (https://postimg.cc/6T98jkVN)

With the UIM installed, and a bit of time on your hands, I'd suggest changing out the accessory belt.

[Ape Factory]

Reserved for future use

[Ape Factory]

Ok, first short little teaser video up at the end of post #53. Should have the thread complete here within a few days. Sorry for the delay!

[jschrauwen]

Michael, I had no idea you had such a detailed and comprehensive write up of your carbon cleaning process. Attention to detail is definitely not your weak spot, lol.
I like your assessment of which combination process would be most effective and I agree with your findings.
Carbon cleaning initially with walnut shells only first. Then if any shells have bonded to any areas like the back side of the valve stems or the perimeter of the valve faces, then a pic to loosen them up a bit to be vacuumed up might be needed. A final vacuuming to clean out any remaining shells/dust followed by a light spraying of a valve cleaner spray from CRC and let sit for a few minutes and then vacuum that up with the shop vac.

If you don't mind Michael, if I post my carbon cleaning video of my 3.2L V6 using the same adapter from Richard. Perhaps your readers might see/use a few things from both videos to combine for their own cleaning?


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pQ3Kk9SONSc&t

I had no idea this thread was a year in the making - WELL DONE!!

[Ape Factory]

Yeah absolutely! The more the merrier. I'd intended to do the cleaning this spring but I ran out of time and the summertime temps came early this year. It's normal to be over 100 degrees F which is not an ideal temperature to do this work at. So I waited until fall when the air temperature is much more comfortable. Still working on finishing up the full write up. Takes time to edit all the photos/video and then organize it in a somewhat logistical format. The FSM is all over the map so you jump back and forth between sections which doesn't improve workflow. Glad you found us over here!

Edit: One thing I did leave out is I swap out the media blaster for an air nozzle and blow everything out with the adapter/shop vac in place. I did this with liquid as well. Keeps the mess down. I'll update the process to reflect that.

[jschrauwen]

Edit: One thing I did leave out is I swap out the media blaster for an air nozzle and blow everything out with the adapter/shop vac in place. I did this with liquid as well. Keeps the mess down. I'll update the process to reflect that.Ahhh, excellent point!!!
*Note to self*

[Ape Factory]

Still updating this thread. I'm at the upper intake manifold re-installation.

[Surrey Sam]

Ape Factory

This is a fantastic resource, thank you for taking the time to document and put it all together. Did you log any parameters via VCDS before and after the clean to see if there was any differences? I'm looking to do this job myself and I might get the injectors checked over and tested at the same time, along with upgrading the injector filter baskets. As I have read the OEM ones can fail in a few VAG group applications, including Audi RS products.

[Ape Factory]

Ape Factory

This is a fantastic resource, thank you for taking the time to document and put it all together. Did you log any parameters via VCDS before and after the clean to see if there was any differences? I'm looking to do this job myself and I might get the injectors checked over and tested at the same time, along with upgrading the injector filter baskets. As I have read the OEM ones can fail in a few VAG group applications, including Audi RS products.

You know, I didn't think to log anything with the VCDS. I did not have any codes prior to the cleaning either. I do plan on heading back to the drag strip and possibly even to the local dynojet again since I've had two tests there.

I hadn't heard anything about the filter baskets. I'm assuming they're internal as they do not look like a standard port injector with the mesh screen on the outside. I do know the injectors need to be cleaned with an ultrasound machine so I left the tips alone. All my previous cars were port injected and I would send them off to RC Engineering for cleaning and a flow match between injectors. Since I had to have the car back up and running within a few days, I didn't have them cleaned. If I go with a supercharger, I plan on replacing all the injectors with new ones anyway. But good to know!

[jschrauwen]

You know, I didn't think to log anything with the VCDS. I did not have any codes prior to the cleaning either. I do plan on heading back to the drag strip and possibly even to the local dynojet again since I've had two tests there.

I hadn't heard anything about the filter baskets. I'm assuming they're internal as they do not look like a standard port injector with the mesh screen on the outside. I do know the injectors need to be cleaned with an ultrasound machine so I left the tips alone. All my previous cars were port injected and I would send them off to RC Engineering for cleaning and a flow match between injectors. Since I had to have the car back up and running within a few days, I didn't have them cleaned. If I go with a supercharger, I plan on replacing all the injectors with new ones anyway. But good to know! Now there's someone who's been around long enough the knows exactly what needs to be done and how/where to get it done. Well done Michael!

[Ape Factory]

The carbon cleaning video, part 1, is now live on the bottom of post #50

[Yoda1]

Good grief you did a lot of work. I’ll finish read up tomorrow because I imagine I’d have to do one shortly. Greatly appreciated it man! You plan on doing a post carbon clean dyno? Lol.

Btw last year I did a dyno on my car and it was like 280 pr something real low. Talk about a buzz kill. Although I trash the results because I wanted to forget the experience, I plan on redoing a dyno after exhaust. Will go somewhere else because the guy didn’t know what he was doing and I remember him saying the torque numbers were really off.

[jschrauwen]

Well done sir. I hope you don't mind that I added your info to a carbon cleaning File I created in the facebook group?

[Ape Factory]

Good grief you did a lot of work. I’ll finish read up tomorrow because I imagine I’d have to do one shortly. Greatly appreciated it man! You plan on doing a post carbon clean dyno? Lol.

Btw last year I did a dyno on my car and it was like 280 pr something real low. Talk about a buzz kill. Although I trash the results because I wanted to forget the experience, I plan on redoing a dyno after exhaust. Will go somewhere else because the guy didn’t know what he was doing and I remember him saying the torque numbers were really off.

I am planning on going to the local dyno again just to see. Unfortunately he runs an older version of their software and doesn't have the ability to get an ignition signal thus no torque readings, just hp.


Well done sir. I hope you don't mind that I added your info to a carbon cleaning File I created in the facebook group?

Thank you and no, I don't mind at all! If you could, just provide a link back here for the day when Facebook goes up in flames.

[jschrauwen]

https://m.facebook.com/groups/354160624656468?view=permalink&id=2597546716984503

Sent from my SM-N900W8 using Tapatalk

[Ape Factory]

Burning the midnight oil, part two is done and published. Post #50 at the bottom as well as post #1 at the very top.

[PRJCTRS5]

Is it necessary to reinstall the port dividers. Would it allow for less restriction? A shop locally mentioned leaving them out.

[Ape Factory]

I would say leave them in. I wouldn't second guess the engineers who designed the engine. If you look at the photo of one, it has a dimple in it which introduces tumble and I believe this is important for direct injected engines.

I could see eliminating the flapper valves IF you go forced induction. Otherwise, I'd leave everything as designed.

[PRJCTRS5]

excellent feed back!

[Ford Prefect]

I would say leave them in. I wouldn't second guess the engineers who designed the engine. If you look at the photo of one, it has a dimple in it which introduces tumble and I believe this is important for direct injected engines.

I could see eliminating the flapper valves IF you go forced induction. Otherwise, I'd leave everything as designed.

We have the same flappers and dividers on the 3.0T. An SC is obviously not a turbo, which is what you guys would do I guess, but I’d leave them in for the same reason.

I like to believe they designed the airflow into the head. It looks like The flappers and dividers act as a Venturi to help airflow at lower throttle levels. But that might be more for driveability than power.


Sent from my iPhone using Audizine (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=87676)

[pickle.rs]

I got a quote from a few shops in the area, and JHM (closest to me) is the only one recommending new injectors ($1300+) as part of the carbon clean.

"Replacement of the injectors IS HIGHLY RECOMMENED these are a failure prone part."

Anyone know anything about this?

[Ape Factory]

They have failed in other models but I've not heard about failures in RS5's yet. I'm sure it could happen like any other injector. The big concern is to R&R the seals an o-rings if they get pulled up with the fuel rails. Highly highly likely they will pull up. But JHM would have far more experience servicing RS5's and have probably seen more issues than the entire forum combined. And it'll depends on what your mileage is really...if you're at 80K, I'd definitely consider it. I'll probably replace mine come my next carbon clean. I also monitor fuel trim and a host of other parameters daily and generally keep on eye on things (not out of fear but curiosity).

[pickle.rs]

I’m only at 33k, so I might wait til a 60k carbon clean to replace. Thanks for the info.

[Ape Factory]

Who do you love? I hit the dyno this morning before work. Results in my Red Mist thread. https://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/787557-The-Red-Mist-(An-RS5-tale)?p=13693102&viewfull=1#post13693102

Carbon cleaning most definitely makes a difference.

[Overbias]

Had a question, was thinking about what to do after carbon cleaning. Have you discussed or thought about catch can and whether its a worthwhile investment after cleaning to reduce contaminants. Second related questions for V8 I would presume that would actually mean 2 catch can setups right?

[Ape Factory]

Meant to answer this earlier, slipped through the cracks. JHM did some testing (feel free to chime in!) with the RS4 and found they didn't make enough of a difference to warrant it. We get volatiles burning off from the oil through the PCV system which are ingested into the intake system and caked on the valves that way as well as from the combustion cycle, valve overlap.

I'm going to make some changes to my vehicle in an attempt to get it to run 10-15 degrees cooler overall, consistently, and not get the high temp spikes upwards of 245 degrees Fahrenheit. That also means I won't be burning off volatiles as efficiently. I'll continue to change my oil every 5K miles and I may try a catch can setup as every little bit will help.

With that said...catch cans work on the principle of air/oil separation via condensation cooling. They all have some sort of "screen" which doesn't act so much as a filter but a cooler surface to condense the vapors and turn them into liquid, trapping them at the bottom of the can.

For that to happen efficiently, the temperature delta has to be significant. I'm wondering how much temperature difference a catch can is, when mounted in the engine bay.

There is a way to mount one outside the engine bay and we could possibly get away with just one if set up right.

The other issue is the factory system which is located in the v of the engine and the valve covers. So you can't disable it completely.

[Yoda1]

Ape, I’m curious if or how much carbon will build up now in your still newly cleaned engine heads since you track and run the car like it’s supposed to be ran. Hard with lots of redlines I presume.

[Fourplay]

Meant to answer this earlier, slipped through the cracks. JHM did some testing (feel free to chime in!) with the RS4 and found they didn't make enough of a difference to warrant it. We get volatiles burning off from the oil through the PCV system which are ingested into the intake system and caked on the valves that way as well as from the combustion cycle, valve overlap.

I'm going to make some changes to my vehicle in an attempt to get it to run 10-15 degrees cooler overall, consistently, and not get the high temp spikes upwards of 245 degrees Fahrenheit. That also means I won't be burning off volatiles as efficiently. I'll continue to change my oil every 5K miles and I may try a catch can setup as every little bit will help.

With that said...catch cans work on the principle of air/oil separation via condensation cooling. They all have some sort of "screen" which doesn't act so much as a filter but a cooler surface to condense the vapors and turn them into liquid, trapping them at the bottom of the can.

For that to happen efficiently, the temperature delta has to be significant. I'm wondering how much temperature difference a catch can is, when mounted in the engine bay.

There is a way to mount one outside the engine bay and we could possibly get away with just one if set up right.

The other issue is the factory system which is located in the v of the engine and the valve covers. So you can't disable it completely.

I think a possible solution is to actually use a proper vortex type air-oil separator on the lines coming from each valve cover (2 total air-oil separators). Then you're forcibly removing oil vapor from the PCV system instead of hoping it condenses out in a catch can.

So instead of the stock PCV system routing on either side of the engine: valve cover --> PCV

It would be on both sides of the engine: valve cover --> air-oil separator -->PCV

That way, you ensure the correct crankcase vacuum remains so the ECU doesn't get upset, but you greatly reduce the amount of oil vapor getting into the intake.

I looked into this with the RS4, but there is too much valve overlap (internal EGR) plus the exhaust gas from the combi EGR valve for it to work effectively (even if you get all of the oil vapor out of the PCV system, those other two dump too much back into the intake).

Maybe the RS5 has less internal EGR and a smaller combi EGR system? Can't hurt to try.

[Ape Factory]

Ape, I’m curious if or how much carbon will build up now in your still newly cleaned engine heads since you track and run the car like it’s supposed to be ran. Hard with lots of redlines I presume.

Not really sure I completely believe in the Italian tuneup. You're still getting just as much of the volatiles being consumed by the engine as it evaporates from the oil. It'd be nice to know it is doing something, right? We'll know in a year or two when I do it again :)


I think a possible solution is to actually use a proper vortex type air-oil separator on the lines coming from each valve cover (2 total air-oil separators). Then you're forcibly removing oil vapor from the PCV system instead of hoping it condenses out in a catch can.

So instead of the stock PCV system routing on either side of the engine: valve cover --> PCV

It would be on both sides of the engine: valve cover --> air-oil separator -->PCV

That way, you ensure the correct crankcase vacuum remains so the ECU doesn't get upset, but you greatly reduce the amount of oil vapor getting into the intake.

I looked into this with the RS4, but there is too much valve overlap (internal EGR) plus the exhaust gas from the combi EGR valve for it to work effectively (even if you get all of the oil vapor out of the PCV system, those other two dump too much back into the intake).

Maybe the RS5 has less internal EGR and a smaller combi EGR system? Can't hurt to try.

It can't hurt to try. Not sure what the valve overlap or the EGR program specification is on the RS5. But yeah, it won't be too hard to have two cans on either side but it will require cutting up the PCV hoses so not for the faint of heart. I haven't looked into sourcing the factory connectors. There's a good deal of room to put a catch can on either side of the engine or even in the cowl area. The main thing'll be draining easily. But I could fab something up, two canisters with quick disconnect fittings for easy removal and dumping. Need to get about five other little projects finished first though!

[pickle.rs]

Ape, when are you just going all out and starting a motor sports company/RS5 online store? :)

[BuyTheWarranty]

I'm looking at getting this done and I'm at 50,000kms (31,000 miles). No symptoms, but on a quest for maximum power. Seeing that Michel made 25 more wheel horsepower at 81,000kms is intriguing. I'm having my last AudiCare service done next Monday and they'll 'scope' the valves for free to see how bad it is.

I'm getting a quote from a few indy shops and Audi. Looks like Audi does it manually (some indy are manual some are walnut blast) and from Audi it's ~1000 in labor, and ~1600 in parts (gaskets, seals). Seems a bit expensive, this was the breakdown for the 'parts only' that they gave me including injectors (~1500 for injectors):

After googling online, part #07L129717E is the upper manifold gasket and in the quote it's 8*$94.30 = 745.50, however, it's listed on ECS for 17 bucks per (136USD total) (https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-volkswagen-audi-parts/upper-intake-manifold-gasket-priced-each/07l129717e/). Defn going to ask about this ...

[Ape Factory]

Ape, when are you just going all out and starting a motor sports company/RS5 online store? :)

I'd love to do something car related full time but my day job prevents this and I'd have to be well versed in more than just the RS5. This is just something I do to prevent sleepless nights. Ideas, can't always let them go. Besides, all the manufacturers are going electric!

[Ape Factory]

Some of those gaskets listed are not needed. Honestly, with so few miles, you won't have to replace any of them other than, potentially, the combustion chamber seals and injector o-rings and that's only if the injectors pull up with the lower intake manifold (likely). They also seem to want to replace all your injectors which again, isn't necessary.

I replaced the cheaper orange gaskets between the LIM and the heads only because of my mileage and that sees far more direct heat than the green gaskets on the top side. Those are the expensive ones.

Seems like they're really giving you the shaft and I'd call them out on some of their prices. Only dealer in town?

[Fourplay]

It can't hurt to try. Not sure what the valve overlap or the EGR program specification is on the RS5. But yeah, it won't be too hard to have two cans on either side but it will require cutting up the PCV hoses so not for the faint of heart. I haven't looked into sourcing the factory connectors. There's a good deal of room to put a catch can on either side of the engine or even in the cowl area. The main thing'll be draining easily. But I could fab something up, two canisters with quick disconnect fittings for easy removal and dumping. Need to get about five other little projects finished first though!

No need to cut the PCV hoses. Just pop them off the engine, soak in hot/boiling water for 15-20 seconds, and the valve cover connector will come right out (you can also do this on the PCV side - I might disassemble the PCV in case the diaphragm doesn't like the hot water).

You can then buy a length of PCV hose from an auto supply store and cut it into two pieces: the first to connect from valve cover to air-oil separator (re-using the stock Audi valve cover connector) and the second to connect from air-oil separator to PCV valve.

That way, if you figure out that it doesn't help the carbon buildup much (or at all) or screws up crankcase vacuum, you can quickly return to stock.

As for the separator, you'll want to use something similar to this: https://www.moroso.com/moroso-shop-browse/60000/

They have a range of different configurations. Some have a drain tube that can be routed back into the crankcase/sump (sounds like a PITA, plus I doubt you really want to return what it's separating back into the engine) and some have a drain tube with a valve for easy draining/disposal. You can even get clear air-oil separators so you know when the reservoir in the bottom is getting full.

[Darel]

OK I'm in the middle of this right now. Couple Qs.

How do you orient the metal clips on the injectors? Both of them, the big one you can see when installed, and the smaller lower one that just has 2 little tabs poking up when it's installed. Do these rings somehow orient the injector in the bore?

What can I use to clean the carbon out of the LIMs? Mine are pretty caked up but I don't know what solvents the plastic is compatible with, also since reside might come into contact with the gaskets I am concerned about those too. It'd be nice if I could just stick them in the parts washer.

Waiting on the shop-vac adapter to get here so I can do my carbon cleaning. Either catch cans don't work at all, or the guy who sold me the car lied to me and he didn't really have the carbon cleaning done right before I bought the car.

[Ape Factory]

https://i.postimg.cc/cHxD0dDp/injector_exploded_view.jpg (https://postimg.cc/B8z5Cffp)

[Darel]

Right. Got that. Does orientation matter? Or just stick the two rings down and insert the injector? The FSM (where this diagram comes from) seems to indicate that the rings are supposed to clock the injector in the bore but doesn't clarify.

[Ape Factory]

I'm not 100% clear what you're asking.

Are you referring to #5 and #6? #6 is the combustion chamber seal and it's a delicate process to install that on the tip of the injector. But each element pictured above is pictured how it's installed. #5, the fingers go up. Doesn't matter how it's rotated. #4 only goes on one way as it has a space for the plug connector.

I'm not sure what the S5's heads look like but on the RS5, there's a notch in the head that the plug connector resides in. So on one side, they all face slightly forward and on the other, they all face slightly back. Just look at your wiring harness and it'll be very clear which way they should go.

[Darel]

I was referring to 4 and 5. For some reason the way I read the FSM it seems to me the "clock position" of the injector is determined by these two pieces, and it's critical. I guess you are right, they kinda can only go together one way given that notch in the head for the electrical connector. Thanks, and thank you again for putting all this together. Luckily my new injector came with new seals so I don't have to worry about getting that combustion chamber seal on!

[Ape Factory]

Yeah, the chamber seal can be done at home, even without the official tools needed, but it's a bit of a slow, delicate process.

The support ring, #4, gives you something to push down on with an appropriate sized socket (be gentle!) and it rests in between a ledge on the injector and the fuel rail. Probably keeps everything at the proper distance and ensures the injector doesn't get crushed.

[Darel]

I just realized, looking at the diagram, all of my #4s were installed upside down.

[Darel]

What can I use to clean the LIMs? What solvents are compatible with the plastic?

[Ape Factory]

Carb cleaner, denatured alcohol.

[BuyTheWarranty]

Had my RS5's valved scoped today @ 51,000kms to check carbon buildup:

https://www.audizine.com/gallery/data/500/medium/IMG_07791.jpg (https://www.audizine.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=93635&title=img-07791&cat=500)

https://www.audizine.com/gallery/data/500/medium/IMG_07772.jpg (https://www.audizine.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=93636&title=img-07772&cat=500)

Likely going to hold off as it doesn't look too bad and no issues, thought I'd share these since I seem to be the lowest mileage I know of who's had it checked!

[Darel]

Got mine done yesterday! After being down for a month. Didn't help that the day everything arrived for me to do the carbon job I was packing to go away for a week. I did mine with 2 tools, one I got off eBay that looks like what I've seen for BMWs (https://www.ebay.com/i/202667011613?chn=ps), and one from EDM Solutions (https://edmsolutions.ca/product/audi-vw-carbon-cleaning-tool/). The EDM style one worked better I thought but both were helpful because they both directed the spray in different places. My biggest issue with the eBay one was the fact that it didn't extend out to the sides to cover the two "port extension" holes on either side so it resulted in just a little more bits of walnut flying around. Using the EDM one you could do the whole job without a single bit of walnut in your engine bay.

I was really surprised at how little mess it made, and how little media I ended up using. If I used 5# of the 25# I bought I'd be surprised.

Got it all back together last night and it's running great. No codes. I honestly can't believe that after having it opened up and taken apart for almost a month it all went back together, and every vacuum line and electrical connector had a home.

I may have a slight coolant leak somewhere. I can smell coolant up front, and the bottle was down a bit from when I topped it up. However, I removed the bottle to pull the plugs and coil packs so of course I dumped it all over the driver's side of the engine and it may still be evaporating off (since coolant is designed to not do that). And I may have had some air entrained in the system that needed to be burped out over a cooling cycle or two. So I will top it up and see.

Couple things I did differently, or stuff that worked for me:

- This all started with a bad injector on #8. I only found that it needed the carbon clean when I pulled the manifold to swap injectors. That's part of the reason this job took almost a month, I ordered the injector, waited for it to come in, spent over a day taking the car apart, then found the carbon. Order port adapters (which took almost two weeks coming from Canada) and media. Then it all showed up the day I was packing to go away. Pulling the injector ended up being a non-issue. Both fuel rails came off the injector o-rings easily so I left all the other injectors in place and just swapped #8. Luckily the new one came with the combustion seal already installed so I didn't have to fiddle with that. I did not change any of the other ones because 1. $$$ and 2. I figured this is complicated enough of a job. No reason to throw more "opportunities for failure" into the mix.

- So, since I left the injectors in place, and didn't really feel like "service position" and another special tool, how was I going to crank the engine over to close the open valves? I used starting fluid to fill the ports and figured out I had 3 open when it was parked. I believe it was 8, 6 and either 2 or 3. Pulled the plugs, and stuck the coil packs back in their bores. That kept the crud out but the little rubber lip on the coil pack wouldn't hold any sort of compression. Then I put it in reverse and me and the boy pushed the car back. I only had to move it about 6 inches or so and the starting fluid showed all 3 of my valves had closed. Reverse was a LOT harder to shove against but it just worked better for me due to how the car was parked.

- I gave each cylinder a good blast with the media then used the picks and screwdrivers to knock off the big stuff that remained, then did the final blasting. Basically just so I could see in there, it was so thick. I started out recycling the media not knowing how much I'd need, but the carbon kept blocking up the blaster. So I just kept the used stuff separate in case I needed to sift it or something, which I didn't. I only used maybe a quarter of the 25# box I got from HF.

- Putting it back together was really kind of a non-event except for the one vacuum line that points straight down off the actuator mounted on the front of the manifold. It was just too tight to get in there with the manifold in place, and the line was too short to reach if I picked up the manifold enough to get my hand in there. In the end my daughter's smaller hands prevailed.

- Predictably it took a few tries to build up fuel pressure but then it started and ran well. Cleared the codes, and nothing recurred. Watching misfires on my live tracker, I let it idle and then the first time I gave it a squeeze of throttle #1 dropped out. But I shut it down and restarted it and haven't had an issue since.

It now runs much smoother (not that I ever thought it ran poorly) although if I drive around with the live tracker on, I get occasional, sporadic single misfires on all cylinders. Very rarely. Like, the row of zeros will occasionally show a 1 that resets the next interrogation cycle. Definitely on all cylinders, not tied to just one or two, and VERY intermittent and sporadic. I'm going to say this is normal. Can't expect perfection.

Other than the possible coolant leak, which I'm still not sure actually exists, I'm thinking I'm good until the next time. Thank you so much for your help, Ape Factory! Even using the FSM there's no way I could have gotten this done without this writeup.

[Ape Factory]

Wow, thanks! I know there are a few differences between the S5 and RS5 so glad it all worked out. It's great your injectors all stayed in, that saves a good chunk of time.

On the adapter, the one from EDM Solutions, that looks identical to Ford Perfect's adapter. Maybe that is his adapter, dunno. I'd just suggest purchasing from him since he took the time to develop them and support our forum brethren! But again, they may be one in the same.

On the misfires, could be gas related. The car has been sitting for a while so I'd burn through that tank and fill up with some top tier stuff like Shell or Chevron. Run a few tanks through and then test.

[Darel]

Fyi found my coolant leak - it helps to screw the cap down all the way. 😑

[Ape Factory]

Made some updates, added two videos on replacing the injector seals. Car still going strong and I've not had any issues since the carbon cleaning.

Here's a kit on Amazon for under $100. https://www.amazon.com/engine-Injector-Puller-Removal-Installer/dp/B07D6QY2L9/ref=sr_1_34?keywords=combustion+chamber+seal+tool+ kit&qid=1566764479&s=gateway&sr=8-34

Also, SSSSS5 found that AutoZone has the toolkit and you can rent it from them. It's tool kit number 8877.

[SSSSS5]

Ape,

I've seen different ways of install for different motors. Would you put your injectors into the fuel rail first, or into the block, and carefully put the lower intake manifold into place? Might not make a difference either way but I'm curious.

[Ape Factory]

Injectors into the port in the head first, then place the lower intake manifold over the top. I lubed the 0-rings on the injectors AND the inside of the fuel rail bung which is part of the lower intake manifold.

It would not be wise to put them in the LIM first then push everything in as the injector may not be aligned correctly and it also takes a bit of effort to get the injector in place. The combustion chamber seals are delicate too and you want to finesse the injector in one at a time.

[Slobo7x]

Excellent thread btw, great work and dedication to post pictures and instructions to all on the forum. I've done this procedure on my 08 S5 few years back, it's very similar.

I have a 2014 RS5 on the way to me, it has 90,000 miles one owner and the guy did all the maintenance at the Audi dealer, tons of service records there.

I don't know if carbon cleaning was performed ever, I'm going to take a guess and say No as I didn't think Audi does this.
This brings me to my question, does anyone sell the LIM to UIM gaskets cheaper then $16 a piece? I mean I know they don't have to be replaced, but the miles on my RS are on the high side and I'd rather do it once and be done for a while at least. Spending $180 on some rubber gaskets seems excessive.

Thanks!

[BuyTheWarranty]

Excellent thread btw, great work and dedication to post pictures and instructions to all on the forum. I've done this procedure on my 08 S5 few years back, it's very similar.

I have a 2014 RS5 on the way to me, it has 90,000 miles one owner and the guy did all the maintenance at the Audi dealer, tons of service records there.

I don't know if carbon cleaning was performed ever, I'm going to take a guess and say No as I didn't think Audi does this.
This brings me to my question, does anyone sell the LIM to UIM gaskets cheaper then $16 a piece? I mean I know they don't have to be replaced, but the miles on my RS are on the high side and I'd rather do it once and be done for a while at least. Spending $180 on some rubber gaskets seems excessive.

Thanks!

I think ECS has some off-brand:

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-elring-parts/lower-intake-manifold-gasket-priced-each/079129717b~elr/

Full list here:

https://www.ecstuning.com/Audi-B8_RS5--4.2L/Engine/Intake/Manifold/

[Ape Factory]

Those gaskets are all the lower intake manifold to the cylinder head gaskets. He's referring to the upper intake to lower intake gaskets which are apparently made out of unobtanium and do cost an arm and a leg for what they are.

[Slobo7x]

Exactly yes..

[SteveRS4]

Those gaskets are all the lower intake manifold to the cylinder head gaskets. He's referring to the upper intake to lower intake gaskets which are apparently made out of unobtanium and do cost an arm and a leg for what they are.That's what i was thinking when i looked at the gaskets there all lower intake manifold !!!

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[Ape Factory]

Shop around a bit...found them for $4USD less here...you may find a better deal yet.
https://www.shopdap.com/07l-129-717-e.html

Part number is 07L129717E which btw...is also used by the 5.2L V10 in the R8.

$10 each here...https://audi.bernardiparts.com/oem-parts/audi-manifold-gasket-07l129717e

[Slobo7x]

Thanks, looks like about $100 with shipping from a few locations. I'll call my local Audi parts guy and see what he can do, it's a shame that Erling no longer sells them as they were listed here..
https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/elring-intake-manifold-gasket-a8040402068elr/11580966-P?searchTerm=intake+manifold

[Slobo7x]

Some additional info on Ape's Thread, as I completed mine just recently on my 14 RS5 with 90,000 miles.

1) The vacuum assist hose in the back of the firewall was much easier to "fish through" if the German style clamp was removed and hose was unplugged right there. I could not get it to come up from the bottom, the attachment to the stock air intake hose requires a special adapter to remove so this was not done.
https://postimg.cc/dkT2YvNx

2) The underbelly tray had rivets on my car, there was no bolts to remove. This proved to be a bit more difficult to remove then standard torx screws. Just heads up for someone if they have this on their car.

3) The part number for the Upper Intake Manifold grommet is 06E-133-588, I managed to lose only one lol.

4) The part number for the water line gasket that's used to drain the coolant is N-0138115

5) The Vacuum Chamber hoses were soaked in WD-40, and I still managed to break off one nipple at the end. They are extremely brittle, be cautious removing this,$75 mistake, don't make the same one I did. Part number 079131541C

6) This fuel harness can be pushed out of the way behind engine hoist brackets, so the installation or removal of the UIM is easier. Also, removal of the oil filter cap will make it a bit easier to remove the UIM off and install as well. I was doing an oil change too, so it had to be done.

7) The UIM gaskets can be reused, just cleaned them with dawn and water then gently rub them with pure mineral oil. This will allow them to retain back some elasticity.

That's all I wanted to add, don't mean to hijack your thread :)

[Ape Factory]

Not at all! Grateful for the additional information and experience. It's why we're all here. I'll add the part numbers for those components in my original writeup.

Edit: On the rivets, would like to have seen photos. There are Torx and then there are Triple Square bolts. They look similar but they are not. The triple square bolts are the largest bolts on the bottom of the main under tray. There are five or six of them off the top of my head. There are some parts of the under tray which are riveted together but those don't need to be undone. Is your car all-original? These days, I find it easiest to remove the front bumper cover first then the under tray.

[Slobo7x]

Thank you, I agree.
I did remove the bumper first as I placed the car on the ramps, my front end lip was broken when the car was unloaded from the truck :(

Yes all stock I believe, I did remove the triple square ones in the back, and Torx as well. Most likely I've undone more then needed, luckily I own a rivet gun.

[Ape Factory]

Ouch. Hopefully they're going to replace that for you!

[Sazexa]

Semi related to the carbon cleaning process;

I didn't have a media blaster on hand when I just did my S5 4.2L valves. I noticed in a few of the valves I have some very minimal, very light surface scratches/scoring from not realizing how sharp my cleaning tool was. How bad will the be for my car, either now or in the long run? I didn't bend any valves or really damage anything. As I said just some light scratches I almost can't even feel with my finger or finger nail if I run it over it. I figure it should be fine, and at the very least definitely better than the mass amount of carbon I had built up previously.

[Ape Factory]

Won't cause any issues at all. Super smooth polished intake runners are not necessarily desirable. Not that you want to go in and scratch the hell out of everything but light surface scratches a micron or two deep aren't going to hurt anything.

[Slobo7x]

So the picture above that ape posted is not how the fuel injector metal clips sit, the actual “crown” portion of number 4 sits down towards the head. At least that’s how mine were and looking at your pictures yours were too.

I don’t know why fsm shows wrong orientation or does it matter much even.

[Ape Factory]

Post #89? Yes, you're right...didn't even notice that. I left them the way they were installed originally which is with the "springy" crown portion pointed down.

[Slobo7x]

Yes, I posted that because Darel might have done his opposite way due to that diagram lol.

[Darel]

Yes, I posted that because Darel might have done his opposite way due to that diagram lol.

Yeah I had that same confusion, glad for confirmation, but if I remember correctly in some form or another, you COULDN'T finish the assembly with the retainers oriented the way they have them in the FSM. It's been a few months so I can't recall exactly why, but I know I "left them how I found them" because the other way just didn't work.

[TontoLoidRS5]

Joining and adding to the discussion here, you want to clean the PCV valves or at least check them for excessive oil or if they close and open. I believe a PCV valve that is too open is the number one cause for carbon buildup. The exception being on the the stem of the valve due to oil dripping down through the valve guide seals.

The hose + housing comes off easily once you have undone the torx t30 screw. Just pull it straight out.

It stinks of oil. Soaked the inside with valve cleaner. Going to track how quickly I get more oil dirt collect there, and if it is too quick I'll replace the respective PCV valve. Easy job but expensive part. Also with the piece off, isn't the easiest way to test the PCV valve to simply to blow into it, from the direction of the crankcase it should open up. Blowing from the other side it should close more or less?

Depending on how well the PCV valve works, will decide whether an oil catch can is necessary.

[TontoLoidRS5]

Joining and adding to the discussion here, you want to clean the PCV valves or at least check them for excessive oil or if they close and open. I believe a PCV valve that is too open is the number one cause for carbon buildup. The exception being on the the stem of the valve due to oil dripping down through the valve guide seals.

The hose + housing comes off easily once you have undone the torx t30 screw. Just pull it straight out.

It stinks of oil. Soaked the inside with valve cleaner. Going to track how quickly I get more oil dirt collect there, and if it is too quick I'll replace the respective PCV valve. Easy job but expensive part. Also with the piece off, isn't the easiest way to test the PCV valve to simply to blow into it, from the direction of the crankcase it should open up. Blowing from the other side it should close more or less?

Depending on how well the PCV valve works, will decide whether an oil catch can is necessary.

Not a lot of oil /dirt came out after soaking. Blowing air from both sides air is coming through so I probably need to get a new part from Audi to compare!

I am burning a liter or so more of oil than what is normal according to the users manual. That is with mostly highway driving and not overly aggressive.

[Ape Factory]

From my recent experience, oil brand and weight also contributes to oil consumption. I chose to leave my PCV's alone due to their fragile nature but it's probably not a bad idea to, at the very least, give them a once over drain out the excess oil. I know the major air/oil separator is located inside the valve covers but not sure if they actually "wear out or not". I've yet to see what they look like up close and personal.

In addition to the PCV system and oil getting past the valve guide, volatiles also get baked on during valve overlap events.

If you order and test new PCV's vs. the old, let us know the results!

[TontoLoidRS5]

Will do. I will also try to put them back on. The only part that is possibly fragile is the connector to the crank case on the end of the hose. But it came off easily I think it will come back on easy as well. Not a lot of dirt in them so far that I can see!

It could also be that the part is simply bad from design and constantly too open meaning oil will get sucked in contributing to the build up. I am close to (pretty much trouble free) 120,000 kms or 75,000 miles.

If anyone else has tested their PCV valves greatly appreciated if you let me know if they properly close!

[SteveRS4]

I'm not sure if they close ok but i did clean mine with alcohol and some carb cleaner not much came out a little oil maybe but there back on and seem to be working fine. Didn't do them any harm !!

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[SteveRS4]

Thinking about it I'm sure i tried to blow through them and could not !! I might wrong as it was quite a few weeks back now !

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[TontoLoidRS5]

Thanks SteveRS4.

I guess the following are good news regarding the engine. Hose and housing as mentioned are easy to get off. On top of the housing there is a lid with a small hole in it. Inside the housing there is a diaphragm and a spring underneath. If there is a crack in the diaphragm there will be a hissing sound. If it is large enough it can be stopped by plugging it with your finger allegedly. The good news are you can get the lid off and put it back on using just a screwdriver in the gap between the lid and the rest of the housing. I did just that and found a small crack. In the diaphragm. Alternatively if you aren't able to unscrew the oil cap at idle it could mean something is wrong with the one of the PCV valves. I had to listen really closely to hear the hissing but slightly easier when the engine is colder.

Luckily https://www.rkxtech.com/products/rkx-4-2l-pcv-valve allows you to buy just the diaphragm. Although just to clarify as it says until 2011 RS5 I would like to verify with any owner of that year or 2010 that the housings as hoses on their model years are the following: 079103245L . The one in the picture is not the right one. I have asked for clarification.

https://6.allegroimg.com/original/0c2486/1d365e5d447b88497c8c932ff596

[TontoLoidRS5]

http://audirevolution.net/forum/index.php?topic=3793.0 there it is.

http://www.ozaudi.com/forums/showthread.php/54903-RS5-PCV-valve-service-kit one way to get it.


Ordered the MB kit [:)] as I can get it in Europe and that way I get the seals as well. Set me back 150 USD for two. New complete audi kits would have cost me 350-360 USD but maybe I will get a slightly better offer from Audi Germany.

[TontoLoidRS5]

http://audirevolution.net/forum/index.php?topic=3793.0 there it is.

http://www.ozaudi.com/forums/showthread.php/54903-RS5-PCV-valve-service-kit one way to get it.


Ordered the MB kit [:)] as I can get it in Europe and that way I get the seals as well. Set me back 150 USD for two. New complete audi kits would have cost me 350-360 USD but maybe I will get a slightly better offer from Audi Germany.

Audi Germany charge USD 145 for each.

[Ape Factory]

Yeah I had that same confusion, glad for confirmation, but if I remember correctly in some form or another, you COULDN'T finish the assembly with the retainers oriented the way they have them in the FSM. It's been a few months so I can't recall exactly why, but I know I "left them how I found them" because the other way just didn't work.

I had my intake manifolds off today swapping injectors and I oriented the spacers as pictured in the FSM diagram above. There's a notch on the solid bottom portion which corresponds with a notch in the injector so I'm convinced this is the correct way to install them.

[Slobo7x]

Post some pictures if you can, it's pretty unusual that all three of our RS5's had them installed wrong. lol

[Darel]

Min'e an S5 for the record but that doesn't change anything.

[Ape Factory]

This is with the spacer installed correctly.
https://i.postimg.cc/Dytgj8fT/FAACFFFC-A53-F-4677-A52-A-5-C11184-E88-D0.jpg (https://postimg.cc/crBw6189)

See how the notch in the gray metal part corresponds with the protruding plastic notch on the injector itself?

Old injectors. Initially, I think I may have turned them over just for installation purposes as there's more surface area on the flat portion and mated up with the appropriately sized socket. I'd then flip them around into the correct position. I replaced all eight last night and I used the same procedure but definitely had the spring portion pointing up when I reassembled everything.
https://i.postimg.cc/mrSygjYL/CE7-C536-D-32-CE-4-B20-8-EF2-6-FF208-F2-BC74.jpg (https://postimg.cc/wt7mWh4Z)

[SteveRS4]

I had my intake manifolds off today swapping injectors and I oriented the spacers as pictured in the FSM diagram above. There's a notch on the solid bottom portion which corresponds with a notch in the injector so I'm convinced this is the correct way to install them.That does surprise me, as mine were the other way up to same as yours ! I'm over in the U.K as far as i know they have never been touched so must be from the factory like that ??

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[SteveRS4]

Does look spot on that way round, do you think it will make any difference that there upside down as i copied the photos from your carbon clean video/ instructions .....so i blame you !! [emoji23][emoji23][emoji23] (joking)

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[Slobo7x]

I wonder if it makes much difference in how the lower manifold compresses on the injector, especially during high engine vibrations.

Ultimately I don't think it matters too much as the LIM port for the injector is completely a circular surface, and the "arch" on the metal bracket for the injector is also spaced evenly to accommodate the plastic lip on the fuel injector itself.

I guess whatever helps us sleep at night [:)]

[SteveRS4]

I wonder if it makes much difference in how the lower manifold compresses on the injector, especially during high engine vibrations.

Ultimately I don't think it matters too much as the LIM port for the injector is completely a circular surface, and the "arch" on the metal bracket for the injector is also spaced evenly to accommodate the plastic lip on the fuel injector itself.

I guess whatever helps us sleep at night [:)]Yeah lets hope so ! What your saying makes sense the gap between the LIM and the injector will still be the same i guess no matter what way round it is as long as it sits ok. I agree if it makes us sleep better then that's good for me too ! [emoji16]

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[Ape Factory]

I know when the injector is fully seated in the cylinder head bore, it's fully seated. It won't go down any further as it physically bottoms out. The bung for the top of the injector has some "throw" to it, fudge factor if you will, it could sit further in or out and still seal.

The torque spec for the LIM is like 9Nm if I remember correctly. Aka, not that much pressure. The Upper is two stage but the final torque stage is 11Nm.

One thing I thought about was the LIM and UIM bolts are the same material as others on the car, ie. stretch bolts. One torquing and they're done. But it's such a low torque threshold I can't imagine using new bolts would make any difference.

I did manage to get the UIM on and off without dropping any of the grommets/spacers this round. When putting the UIM back on, I made to sure to press each spacer fully into the grommet and they all held on there securely.

[Ape Factory]

One more important note! It is absolutely necessary to use a vacuum pump to retract the flaps when installing the LIM. They WILL get caught on the port dividers. I experimented a bit with one side and they got caught up on the divider when not retracting them by using vacuum.

[Overbias]

If you haven't already, check out this excellent post and link:

https://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/880280-Audi-RS5-4-2L-Engine-specs

re discussion earlier in this thread on air oil separators I was particularly interested to note In the linked document:

'The CFSA engine also had a crankcase ventilation system which captured blow-by gases for combustion. To minimise the oil contained in the blow-by gases, the gases passed through a labyrinth oil separator (in the cylinder head cover) and a three-stage cyclonic micro oil separator.'

[Ape Factory]

If you haven't already, check out this excellent post and link:

https://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/880280-Audi-RS5-4-2L-Engine-specs

re discussion earlier in this thread on air oil separators I was particularly interested to note In the linked document:

'The CFSA engine also had a crankcase ventilation system which captured blow-by gases for combustion. To minimise the oil contained in the blow-by gases, the gases passed through a labyrinth oil separator (in the cylinder head cover) and a three-stage cyclonic micro oil separator.'

Yep, they're small and located on the underside of the valve cover (internally). Not sure how effective they are or rather, I'm not sure it matters how effective they are due to the amount of oil that's apparently dripping down the valve stems. I guess every little bit helps.

I posted a link to that article over a year ago. There are a few technical errors in it but overall it's a nice look at the CFSA.

[Ape Factory]

Thanks SteveRS4.

I guess the following are good news regarding the engine. Hose and housing as mentioned are easy to get off. On top of the housing there is a lid with a small hole in it. Inside the housing there is a diaphragm and a spring underneath. If there is a crack in the diaphragm there will be a hissing sound. If it is large enough it can be stopped by plugging it with your finger allegedly. The good news are you can get the lid off and put it back on using just a screwdriver in the gap between the lid and the rest of the housing. I did just that and found a small crack. In the diaphragm. Alternatively if you aren't able to unscrew the oil cap at idle it could mean something is wrong with the one of the PCV valves. I had to listen really closely to hear the hissing but slightly easier when the engine is colder.

Luckily https://www.rkxtech.com/products/rkx-4-2l-pcv-valve allows you to buy just the diaphragm. Although just to clarify as it says until 2011 RS5 I would like to verify with any owner of that year or 2010 that the housings as hoses on their model years are the following: 079103245L . The one in the picture is not the right one. I have asked for clarification.

https://6.allegroimg.com/original/0c2486/1d365e5d447b88497c8c932ff596

Just an FYI, those diaphragms do not work on the RS5. The company is, however, planning on making a replacement diaphragm but it's at least six months out.

[Overbias]

Yup, and back to your earlier point, there would be no way to intercept the breather path to insert a 3rd party air oil separator to externally remove the oil. Clearly the PCV's are not the entire recirculation route.

We discovered that the PCV's installed from factory were not (and never had been) associated with the VIN of my car. Nobody is quite sure how they ended up there but when the tech went to replace them they were not found in their parts system.

[Ape Factory]

Yup, and back to your earlier point, there would be no way to intercept the breather path to insert a 3rd party air oil separator to externally remove the oil. Clearly the PCV's are not the entire recirculation route.

We discovered that the PCV's installed from factory were not (and never had been) associated with the VIN of my car. Nobody is quite sure how they ended up there but when the tech went to replace them they were not found in their parts system.

You could intercept the airflow path primarily by taking it from the valve cover, through a new air/oil separator then on to the PCV's on either side. After examining my car post clean plus 10K miles, I'm convinced it's all flowing down past the valve guides for the most part. I'm going to do an experiment with the CRC valve/turbo cleaner and see if it makes a difference. I'll pull the upper intake manifold off and look after the procedure has been performed. Will post pics.

To look at long and short term fuel trim as well as misfires, with the VCDS launched, choose the control modules. From there choose "01 Engine" (not the transmission which is highlighted).
https://i.postimg.cc/rpsg8vhT/controlmodselect.jpg (https://postimg.cc/wtKD2b84)

Once you're in the engine control module, select "Adv. Meas. Values". This is also where you can select any engine parameter to log live.
https://i.postimg.cc/GpfK9qNy/advmeasurvalues.jpg (https://postimg.cc/B8xHVcJS)

Once in Adv. Meas. Values, there's a window on the right. Just check the boxes/measuring values you want to record. You can click up to eight and still have "turbo" mode where the sample rate is high enough to make good logs. I've selected Misfires per 1000 revolutions for all eight cylinders. The engine is actually running during this screen shot and it's post-injector swap.
https://i.postimg.cc/2yRx73Cj/misfire-count.jpg (https://postimg.cc/ygj9V1J2)

Here's fuel trim.
https://i.postimg.cc/9QJJHWY1/fuel-trim.jpg (https://postimg.cc/TK5rrvSW)

[Darel]

What practical information does knowing that fuel trim tell you? What numbers should we see there, and what would be a red flag?

[Ape Factory]

So basically your short term fuel trim will fluctuate quite rapidly as it's being adjusted in real time. If you're positive, that means the ECU is compensating for a slight lean condition. If you're negative, you're rich. Your long term trim will adapt and change over time. Mine is still changing after swapping in the new injectors. Generally, if you're seeing over 10% in either direction, there's an issue. I'm guessing but if you start seeing +/-20%, it'll most likely throw a code. Anything below 8-9% is probably pretty normal. Once I've run my car enough with the new injectors, I should be around 0 to 3% or thereabouts.

[SteveRS4]

So basically your short term fuel trim will fluctuate quite rapidly as it's being adjusted in real time. If you're positive, that means the ECU is compensating for a slight lean condition. If you're negative, you're rich. Your long term trim will adapt and change over time. Mine is still changing after swapping in the new injectors. Generally, if you're seeing over 10% in either direction, there's an issue. I'm guessing but if you start seeing +/-20%, it'll most likely throw a code. Anything below 8-9% is probably pretty normal. Once I've run my car enough with the new injectors, I should be around 0 to 3% or thereabouts.Thanks Michel was going to ask what to look for on the fuel trim and how to bring it up on VCDS nice one [emoji106]
Will also be very interested in how you get on with the CRC valve/ turbo cleaner experiment keep us posted ! Be great if there's a way to keep the carbon build up down between carbon cleans.

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[Darel]

Great info, thanks! This thread should get stickied.

[Ape Factory]

Thanks Michel was going to ask what to look for on the fuel trim and how to bring it up on VCDS nice one [emoji106]
Will also be very interested in how you get on with the CRC valve/ turbo cleaner experiment keep us posted ! Be great if there's a way to keep the carbon build up down between carbon cleans.

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I may try to do that on Monday but I won't remove the intake for another week as I have some new upper/lower gaskets coming. Still, should be able to see a difference but it might not be where it's important, around the edge of the valve head and the valve seat. We shall see!

[SteveRS4]

I may try to do that on Monday but I won't remove the intake for another week as I have some new upper/lower gaskets coming. Still, should be able to see a difference but it might not be where it's important, around the edge of the valve head and the valve seat. We shall see!Yes will be interesting to see ! Also if it reaches all the intake valves especially cylinders 1-4-5-8 as i dont know about yours but these had the most carbon build up on mine? Like i say keep us posted [emoji106]

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[Ape Factory]

I plan on injecting half a can on either throttle body side and yes, I did notice some had more carbon than others although I didn't take notes on which ones like I should have.

[SteveRS4]

Yeah i noted it and mine was 1-4-5-8 either end of the block as such, lets hope it does what we want it to do! Half a can on each side should be plenty ill keep my fingers crossed it works even if it takes some of it away we might be able to do a carbon clean less often that would be a result !

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[Yoda1]

I plan on injecting half a can on either throttle body side and yes, I did notice some had more carbon than others although I didn't take notes on which ones like I should have.

This is great! I’ll be in background looking/reading. I was not able to think of an more effective place to spray the carbon cleaner spray. Would be cool if there was a cleaner designed as an expanding foam and applied with engine off, that would make contact with all inside surface areas then dissolves the oil grime that’s built up over the 10k miles. Maybe a simple carb spray to wash that down afterwards with engine running.

[Ape Factory]

I used the CRC valve cleaner yesterday. Per their instructions, I warmed the car up. Drove it around for a bit until it was up to temp. Pulled into the driveway and took off both intake elbows. Had a helper maintain 2,000 rpm and I tried to keep the application even for both throttle bodies by counting in seconds. Ten seconds for one side, switch to the other and vice versa, until the can was empty.

Once you've emptied the can, the car needs to sit for an hour and you're then supposed to drive it on the highway for at least 10 minutes. They also say it continues to clean for the next 7 or 8 days. So I took it on the highway, drove for 35 minutes to the nearest drag strip and spent the day making runs. Despite a DA of over 2200 feet and ambient air temps around 75 degrees, I ran my best time. Still no records but that was encouraging given the conditions. Now it should be noted I just changed out all eight of my injectors and I believe that's where the difference came from.

I'll pull the upper intake manifold next weekend and have a look. And yes, I shot a video :) I should have the part 1 teaser up this week, maybe even today if I have time.

[SteveRS4]

I used the CRC valve cleaner yesterday. Per their instructions, I warmed the car up. Drove it around for a bit until it was up to temp. Pulled into the driveway and took off both intake elbows. Had a helper maintain 2,000 rpm and I tried to keep the application even for both throttle bodies by counting in seconds. Ten seconds for one side, switch to the other and vice versa, until the can was empty.

Once you've emptied the can, the car needs to sit for an hour and you're then supposed to drive it on the highway for at least 10 minutes. They also say it continues to clean for the next 7 or 8 days. So I took it on the highway, drove for 35 minutes to the nearest drag strip and spent the day making runs. Despite a DA of over 2200 feet and ambient air temps around 75 degrees, I ran my best time. Still no records but that was encouraging given the conditions. Now it should be noted I just changed out all eight of my injectors and I believe that's where the difference came from.

I'll pull the upper intake manifold next weekend and have a look. And yes, I shot a video :) I should have the part 1 teaser up this week, maybe even today if I have time.That's great Michel will be interesting to see how the valves look and what the results are ! Your a star for doing a video thought you might ! Sounds as if you had a good day at the drag strip and really glad your times are getting better all the time !!! [emoji4][emoji106]

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[Ape Factory]

So still working on the video and I should have it up within a day or two. Turning out to be more complicated than I thought and I'm trying to minimize "talking head" time. Yes, I'll actually be talking on camera for a change. I'll most likely post it up on the "other site" though as well as my YouTube channel.

PS-I actually give a mini-shout out to you Steve!

[SteveRS4]

So still working on the video and I should have it up within a day or two. Turning out to be more complicated than I thought and I'm trying to minimize "talking head" time. Yes, I'll actually be talking on camera for a change. I'll most likely post it up on the "other site" though as well as my YouTube channel.

PS-I actually give a mini-shout out to you Steve!Wow !! That's great thanks Michel I'm famous haha ! Bloody hell your gonna be talking that's a first someone's getting brave in front of the camera !!! No really tho, that's great like I've said will be good if this works even to a degree ! It will be interesting to see what the results are and if this stuff really works or not ! Nice one Michel [emoji106][emoji16]

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[SteveRS4]

So still working on the video and I should have it up within a day or two. Turning out to be more complicated than I thought and I'm trying to minimize "talking head" time. Yes, I'll actually be talking on camera for a change. I'll most likely post it up on the "other site" though as well as my YouTube channel.

PS-I actually give a mini-shout out to you Steve!Hey Michel how you getting on with the video ? Also i know you probs can't say on here but what's the "other site" drop me an email cheers buddy [emoji106]

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[jschrauwen]

SteveRS4 - have you carbon cleaned your B7 RS4 yet?
I just acquired a 2008 R8 V8 and thought with so much similarities between them, I could get some insight into this process. My B8 A5 3.2L was quite easy to do as the fuel rails and injectors are not removed as part of the process.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200119/bd7cd54f7df8da003d97cf64469aec30.jpg

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[SteveRS4]

SteveRS4 - have you carbon cleaned your B7 RS4 yet?
I just acquired a 2008 R8 V8 and thought with so much similarities between them, I could get some insight into this process. My B8 A5 3.2L was quite easy to do as the fuel rails and injectors are not removed as part of the process.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200119/bd7cd54f7df8da003d97cf64469aec30.jpg

Sent from my SM-N900W8 using TapatalkVery nice love the R8 !! I'm afraid my RS4 is a B8 as i live in the U.K not a B7 so mine is the same engine as the RS5 B8's. I'm not sure of the differences that the B7 and B8 have to be honest as I've never looked into it that much maybe someone else will know on here and chime in, i wouldn't of thought there would be to many differences tho sorry i couldn't of been more help. Ape on here is very knowledgeable and has a video and a very detailed write up of the rs5 B8 on how to do a carbon clean might give you an idea of what your looking at ?

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[jschrauwen]

Very nice love the R8 !! I'm afraid my RS4 is a B8 as i live in the U.K not a B7 so mine is the same engine as the RS5 B8's. I'm not sure of the differences that the B7 and B8 have to be honest as I've never looked into it that much maybe someone else will know on here and chime in, i wouldn't of thought there would be to many differences tho sorry i couldn't of been more help. Ape on here is very knowledgeable and has a video and a very detailed write up of the rs5 B8 on how to do a carbon clean might give you an idea of what your looking at ?

Sent from my SM-G920F using TapatalkThanks for that Steve. Yes, the 4.2L V8 R8 is basically the same as the B7 RS4 except it uses a dry sump instead.

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[Ape Factory]

Hey Michel how you getting on with the video ? Also i know you probs can't say on here but what's the "other site" drop me an email cheers buddy [emoji106]

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Still working on it, came down with the flu and I also decided to "upgrade" to Catalina on my Mac while I've been sidelined. Big mistake. I've now spent the better part of four days reinstalling Mojave. A bunch of my music studio apps didn't migrate over and I almost lost all of my compositions. I haven't launched Final Cut yet to see if I lost my video. Still have the footage so I can always go back. Decided to go with a whole new Wifi6 mesh system as well and that took up all of yesterday, LOL. It never ends.

And noted on that last part.

[SteveRS4]

Still working on it, came down with the flu and I also decided to "upgrade" to Catalina on my Mac while I've been sidelined. Big mistake. I've now spent the better part of four days reinstalling Mojave. A bunch of my music studio apps didn't migrate over and I almost lost all of my compositions. I haven't launched Final Cut yet to see if I lost my video. Still have the footage so I can always go back. Decided to go with a whole new Wifi6 mesh system as well and that took up all of yesterday, LOL. It never ends.

And noted on that last part.Oh man sounds like you have had a nightmare !! Hope your starting to feel better buddy flu is a bad one to have.
Good job you didn't lose any of your music as well, i hate doing things like that always ends up being a mission to do Soooooo frustrating !! Ill check my emails thanks and hope your feeling better very soon [emoji855]

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[SteveRS4]

Still working on it, came down with the flu and I also decided to "upgrade" to Catalina on my Mac while I've been sidelined. Big mistake. I've now spent the better part of four days reinstalling Mojave. A bunch of my music studio apps didn't migrate over and I almost lost all of my compositions. I haven't launched Final Cut yet to see if I lost my video. Still have the footage so I can always go back. Decided to go with a whole new Wifi6 mesh system as well and that took up all of yesterday, LOL. It never ends.

And noted on that last part.Hey Michel
Any news on this yet and the video ??

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[Darel]

Hey guys, could use a hand here. Hours upon hours of searching (both the garage and the internet) came up dry.

You know those spacers on the intake manifold you all warn against losing? Well, I lost one. Not the spacer itself, just the upper washer with the bonded rubber on it.

Anyone have any idea how to find one of these? I don't even know what it's called. Parts diagrams don't show it (just the spacer). Google doesn't help. I even looked into just buying a plain bonded sealing washer and using an o-ring to make up the little lip that sits down inside the bore of the manifold, but they are 9mm ID and there is NOTHING I can find that's close, and 8mm would be too small and too hard to drill out, and 10mm obviously too big as it needs to just fit around the end of the spacer itself.

Banging my head against a wall here.

Also a couple notes. I'm doing this because another injector failed on me.

- also replacing the oil filter housing gaskets. GOD that thing holds a lot of oil, that when you unbolt it runs all over the valley of your engine. All over. I have quarts of it running down the engine, down the drip pans, and all over my garage floor now. Like, really, who thought this thing would retain oil like this up at the top of the engine?

- on the injector spacers we discussed here earlier - on my '09 S5, they're different. They don't have that notch you have Ape Factory, and there is NO way you can get the retainer to grab anything unless you install it with the "humps" facing down. Also my retainers go on as a washer around the bottom of the injector, but have these 2 prongs that stick up out of the bore and engage the spacer. Yours don't appear to have that.

- only 10K miles since I last did my carbon cleaning (as discussed here previously) and it really kinda needs it again. I'm surprised. Audi PCVs are garbage and evidently my catch can isn't doing a damn thing either.

- On that note I did get a new diaphragm for the PCV. The old one didn't seem to have any tears (at least that weren't caused by my screwdriver...probably....) but it was way floppier than the new one. We'll see if it makes a difference. Popping that cap off is nerve wracking though, because I don't feel like dropping $200 on a new unit and boy that thing is on there good.

Any thoughts on that manifold washer would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

[Ape Factory]

Audi calls it a decoupling element for whatever reason... I call it a grommet. Do yours look identical to the RS5's grommets? Have you tried poking around with a magnet? Did you make sure it didn't fall in one of the intake ports? Most of the parts guides here in the U.S. are pretty poor, half of the car's parts aren't listed. I'll dig around. I don't check in here half as often any more, found a new home on audirevolutiondotnet.

[Darel]

Yeah I poked around all over with the magnet for hours. Even pulled out the vac reservoir to look under. Thanks for the nomenclature.

[Darel]

Somehow I think I found it. I used the info you posted earlier in this thread and came up with a possible Audi part number 06E133588 for the spacer/grommet set. I think. When I search for the part number I find several hits for ordering it, but none with pictures, except this one German eBay ad: https://www.ebay.de/itm/Orig-VW-AUDI-Dampfungsbuchse-06E133588-NEU-12-Stuck-/372405017717

Based on this looking like what I need, and FCP Euro being one of the search results, I ordered a few. I'll update if this is correct because it might be a good tidbit to keep in this thread. Unfortunately while most of the usual Audi parts sites list this, none allows me to actually confirm fitment for my '09 S5. So, we'll see. Thanks for your help!

[Ape Factory]

A little video on CRC valve cleaner. Will this work to keep carbon down in between cleanings? Let's find out...

https://youtu.be/hkWm5ODnLy0

[Darel]

Definitely interested to see part 2 when you open it up. After failing another injector and having to open her up again after only 10k (exactly the same situation as you) I'm shocked at how much carbon is on mine and now I'm interested in a way to mitigate it chemically ever so often. This time around I'm sending all the injectors out for test/clean/flow balance and walnut blasting it yet again.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/baP-FSMdSj4IYkoY7vMsEpPdJVqvDMHh1Yee3vp1MxAc1ORp7SALOF YMAeZqcUBcddDKIciRmzURRBP5DHOZQNgo4C1S-aQCcfSuJ9t_kXxeaYgmhc1X9BR8BrAcNnX8vv0ow1yqcbD9eg7 hpaGDWa9xnXJbokgeUQ3LWSmeNysP0IzIztOAKLW4z9hvorLcY GfGNbSWG1ZKro44GuCOUwUfbrTnkU8WuLYRnVTAreIH4bYXz-ZM2j9cTfyQeOwvOEJjez37G7XkcB0hPJQD7_Grf83XeZ5ajQOU 7LdHppeuBv-zRGccjHTOa5hQ0Om2BQRHNyfKg7Mx5vHG4J64F5wAQqoe-jtQTgdv6gTauZDbT4-1hdwZuPn77HdrevrUN2EWrULOA22tkjoBSHSkPBpm5jjX0mrXQ GHdJanxxqnttZrCa2S2AQxCtt1S0HqjQD-1Nzsp8GPVeD1g-_o3dwlSL5gvxoy6bw4cQnp5GDJd7PVh2TeJXKA9Jo16q6M5o_E gqXXxDLsowILxfqf6UAKq8hRw6PzWBfgPki9Me0Rfawl7e9V28 rJE6E02WEkf5umOaT3Hr08YCS5HiCeAymUKCwUZbLveBbUthAw Ib5sf-h1lRbMRUWAeYnqO8jdDRCK2q4XS54YMf6aXhSmHnlNRtYL4p4B yIMtux8ltbhzMCqz7P4M3LuGnMMr2=w983-h737-no

[TontoLoidRS5]

I did a slightly different CRC application to you. Since then I have poored liquimoly fuel system cleaner into the tank. Hoping that will clean the system and the cylinders a bit. I intend, however, to spray this in instead of CRC when I start noticing noticing rough idling or jumping fuel consumption.

(About a year ago and maybe 7000 miles) I used two cans of CRC they're more than 50 USD a can here in euroland. Sprayed them in the same place as you but both at the same time one left one right hand (not without effort). I also adjusted the revs a bit to about 2500-3000 trying to accommodate for the fact that we have high revving v8s.

When I took it out after overtook some extremely slow POS and got a misfire immediately. Engine light on, worst kind of limp home mode (terrible sound). Lesson is dose high, be more careful just driving off first few minutes at least.

On a slightly different topic I have done about 2k miles since replacing the PCV valves now by swapping the diaphragms. But that is mainly hoping that will lessen the carbon build up a bit.

I also intend to use named PCV valves, how dirty they get inside as a measure of how much build up I might be getting.


Nothing bad to report yet. Fuel consumption has been more stable since then. Maybe you can check that more precisely with your VCDS (I will get one too).

Drive a lot of highway checking the fuel consumption is my best measure.

Idling is always rough when I start the car cold. Warm idling is also difficult to me to measure the vibrations.

The two cents I wanted to throw in though are the dosage maybe should be a 1.5 cans of CRC for the car and then the revs are the second variable.

At the same time I did the MMI and euromap updates myself. It uses a bit of power, the battery survived without being plugged in though (if you dare risking it failing halfway).

[TontoLoidRS5]

Regarding the PCV valves and using the valves from the daimler/Amg . I am still a bit unsure if one of the gaskets is 100 % identical. Either way it comes on and off easier with the new one on and they are a hassle to get off. My thinking is the next time I change the pcv valves (not sure when) I will use the audi original part.

[Darel]

CONFIRMED! 06E 133 588 is the part number for one PAIR intake manifold spacer + grommet. So for the rest of you who drop your grommets or spacers into the nether regions of your engine bay, you can order this part number from FCP Euro. Be warned, it took over a month to get to me. Luckily I actually FOUND the grommet I lost last week!

Ape, mind updating your post back where you talk about the spacer setup? Some guys might need this info.

Darel

[Ape Factory]

CONFIRMED! 06E 133 588 is the part number for one PAIR intake manifold spacer + grommet. So for the rest of you who drop your grommets or spacers into the nether regions of your engine bay, you can order this part number from FCP Euro. Be warned, it took over a month to get to me. Luckily I actually FOUND the grommet I lost last week!

Ape, mind updating your post back where you talk about the spacer setup? Some guys might need this info.

Darel

I can do that. I think, somewhere buried in this thread, I had the part number, LOL. Been so busy I haven't had time to find it.

Edit. I found it. Managed to update and include the part number over on the "other" site, Audi revolution dot net. [wrench]. I'm convinced I have it in this very thread somewhere but I've now updated it in a few places so it's easy to find.

[djnuge]

I remember reading somewhere that the 2015 come with some kind of a filter that helps with the carbon build-up. Does anyone know anything about that?

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[njg123]

Please PM a link to the video when completed. Very interested in doing a carbon clean myself. I did it a few times on a 4.2L S5, but I’d be happy to take some pointers before going in my my RS5 just to be on the safer side of dodging any headaches


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About to do this on my 2011 S5 - question, did you happen to keep a list of part #s for the S5/. Having difficulty locating and it seems that gaskets/seals are not the same as on the RS5! Any any tips/nuances you found on the S5 carbon clean would be much appreciated!!

[Ape Factory]

I've not researched the part numbers for that car but I can look up the gaskets tomorrow and post the part number up. The RS5's motor, other than displacement, shares very little with the S5's 4.2L engine.

The factory service manual can be downloaded directly from Audi in PDF format for less than $40.

[Ape Factory]

About to do this on my 2011 S5 - question, did you happen to keep a list of part #s for the S5/. Having difficulty locating and it seems that gaskets/seals are not the same as on the RS5! Any any tips/nuances you found on the S5 carbon clean would be much appreciated!!

I come up with two part numbers. I believe the first is for the very early cars. Didn't they change manifold design at some point? The second one appears to be for cars after 2/11/2008 and it's a series of individual oval seals, eight in total.

079 133 074B -This looks like a traditional one piece flat gasket with multiple port holes.
079 198 717 -These are the individual gaskets, oval in shape, similar to what the RS5 gaskets look like.

[matt310]

Hoping someone can help jog my memory. When the IM is off for carbon cleaning, does the CFSA have the same/similar oil separator parked up against the firewall that the RS 4/BNS motor has? Those have been problematic and wondering if the CFSA PCV system should be replaced while there's more room to work.

[Ape Factory]

It's actually located inside the valve cover so nothing to replace. If the PCV's aren't making horrendous whistling noises, no need to replace them.

[matt310]

Thanks, Ape!

[imacnac]

Thank you very much for your videos on youtube and the details on this forum.
I am French and by searching on google, cleaning the intake valves for audi rs5, I found your videos.
You are the only one who documents the cleaning for Audi RS5. Thank you very much, seriously to your explanations, I will do it.

Where can I buy the adapter, vacuum cleaner for the intake? Do you have Elsawin send it to MP?

[Ape Factory]

Thank you very much for your videos on youtube and the details on this forum.
I am French and by searching on google, cleaning the intake valves for audi rs5, I found your videos.
You are the only one who documents the cleaning for Audi RS5. Thank you very much, seriously to your explanations, I will do it.

Where can I buy the adapter, vacuum cleaner for the intake? Do you have Elsawin send it to MP?

Look for the user Ford Prefect on Audizine. He makes them, 3D printed. There's at least one business that copied his design and made it out of aluminum but the 3D printed version that he makes in plastic is more than tough enough. I prefer to go with the original guy vs. the company that copied it.

[Ford Prefect]

Look for the user Ford Prefect on Audizine. He makes them, 3D printed. There's at least one business that copied his design and made it out of aluminum but the 3D printed version that he makes in plastic is more than tough enough. I prefer to go with the original guy vs. the company that copied it.

Hey man! Thanks for the nod, very much appreciated. There are certainly some copies out there.




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