View Full Version : Thermostat warning signs?
fillyo
08-04-2017, 07:44 AM
I have a 2011 S4 with 66K miles, last few days the colling fan has been running constantly, and runs a minute or so after I shut it off. My coolant levels are fine. Is my car a ticking time bomb for thermostat failure? I don't want to get stuck on the side of the road, maybe I should proactively get it done.
Having just had mine go, yeah, get it checked/changed. I had the same symptoms for about a week before mine needed to be replaced.
fillyo
08-04-2017, 08:20 AM
Who did you have do it? Also, how much if you don't mind?
Hawkpilot6060
08-04-2017, 08:27 AM
Who did you have do it? Also, how much if you don't mind?
I was on my way to work, literally 5 miles from the Audi dealership, and my water temp started climbing. Turned on the heater to help, slowed down and drove to the dealership. Got a loaner and went to work, diagnosis was the thermostat. $1200.00 bucks and a day or two and I picked it back up. They have to pull the supercharger.
S4'ed
08-04-2017, 10:10 AM
Or do it yourself for $50 (thermostat) and $44 (2 gallons of G13 antifreeze).......
jdcarnes
08-04-2017, 10:21 AM
Or do it yourself for $50 (thermostat) and $44 (2 gallons of G13 antifreeze).......
+1
Cheapest Indy shop, I got a quote from was $800 with waterpump. So, probably ~$500-$600 without depending on the price/manufactor of the waterpump.
If you lived closer, I would do it much cheaper than the dealer.
If going the DIY route, recommend getting the kit from ECS...
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-assembled-by-ecs-parts/cooling-system-refresh-kit-level-1/06e121111adkt/
Senseless
08-04-2017, 07:20 PM
Did you do the fuel rail leak recall yet? I think the 2011s were affected. When my '12 was done, a new thermostat was included free.
I had a stage 2 pulley installed while the super charger was off, i felt less screwed replacing the thermostat.
Dr GP
08-06-2017, 01:08 PM
Did you do the fuel rail leak recall yet? I think the 2011s were affected. When my '12 was done, a new thermostat was included free.
That recall does not include all 2011 units. I was hoping that mine was part of the recall, just to get the T stat replaced. Unfortunately, my car is out of the range.
I have a 2011 S4 with 66K miles, last few days the colling fan has been running constantly, and runs a minute or so after I shut it off. My coolant levels are fine. Is my car a ticking time bomb for thermostat failure? I don't want to get stuck on the side of the road, maybe I should proactively get it done.
Mine started doing the same thing a couple weeks ago. Definitely the thermostat. I ordered a new OEM thermostat from Amazon Prime and it was here the next day for $45. Time consuming install (probably took me almost 6 hours), but I bet I could do it in 4 or less the next time.
jnicho1
08-07-2017, 06:52 AM
Avoid the dealership - find an indy shop to perform the work. I saved ~$700
Who did you have do it? Also, how much if you don't mind?
Yeah, mine was like $1300 or something at the Dealership. I saw the video of the DIY fix... it's WAY more work than I would want to get into.
fillyo
08-07-2017, 10:13 AM
Having an Indy shop do if for $630, getting it done Wednesday, crossing fingers until then
Having an Indy shop do if for $630, getting it done Wednesday, crossing fingers until then
Hopefully you make it until then! The first day I noticed it my coolant temps were already in the mid 220s after a short drive. (checked via P3 gauge)
$630 is a decently good deal for that job. Especially if the've never done it before.
b8s4me
08-07-2017, 10:38 AM
Yeah, mine was like $1300 or something at the Dealership. I saw the video of the DIY fix... it's WAY more work than I would want to get into.
Lmao, are you serious? I changed the thermostat with no prior knowledge/experience in about an hour, and that was with me taking my sweet time making sure I didn't mess anything up. I could easily knock it out in 30min, I've taken shits longer then that! :D
I bet the tech at the dealership was laughing the whole time he changed your t-stat, $1300 is a rip off. I would gladly do it for someone for a pizza and some beer
Lmao, are you serious? I changed the thermostat with no prior knowledge/experience in about an hour, and that was with me taking my sweet time making sure I didn't mess anything up. I could easily knock it out in 30min, I've taken shits longer then that! :D
I bet the tech at the dealership was laughing the whole time he changed your t-stat, $1300 is a rip off. I would gladly do it for someone for a pizza and some beer
Hmm, well my story does not seem to be atypical...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xyZLjJOxBvQ
b8s4me
08-07-2017, 10:53 AM
That's unfortunate, considering how simple of a job it really is and the resources available (AZ).
VtotheJ
08-07-2017, 11:38 AM
Lmao, are you serious? I changed the thermostat with no prior knowledge/experience in about an hour, and that was with me taking my sweet time making sure I didn't mess anything up. I could easily knock it out in 30min, I've taken shits longer then that! :D
I bet the tech at the dealership was laughing the whole time he changed your t-stat, $1300 is a rip off. I would gladly do it for someone for a pizza and some beer
I hope you're trolling bro.
OP, welcome to the failed thermostat club. Mine went at 90K miles, surprised it lasted this long. Just glad it didn't conk out on my 600mi roadtrip to Montreal 2 months ago. If it fails, you won't be able to drive it for more than 10 minutes at a time. Mine failed within 10 min of driving and I had to pull over to let it cool down. I don't get how Audi didn't make it a recall item for ALL B8 S4's.
b8s4me
08-07-2017, 11:52 AM
I hope you're trolling bro.
OP, welcome to the failed thermostat club. Mine went at 90K miles, surprised it lasted this long. Just glad it didn't conk out on my 600mi roadtrip to Montreal 2 months ago. If it fails, you won't be able to drive it for more than 10 minutes at a time. Mine failed within 10 min of driving and I had to pull over to let it cool down. I don't get how Audi didn't make it a recall item for ALL B8 S4's.
Not trolling, it's ridiculously easy to replace the t-stat. 6 bolts holding the SC, remove SC belt, put different colored zip ties on the connector and mark them so you know where they go. Disconnect the intake and sensors, a coolant hose and that's literally it. Not worth anywhere close to $1k+.
b8s4me
08-07-2017, 11:54 AM
If anyone wants to come down to Pensacola, FL and hang out I will gladly change your t-stat for free. It will also be much cheaper to drive down here and vacation than it would be to take to a dealer. I'm 100% serious about this offer btw [wrench]
VtotheJ
08-07-2017, 01:14 PM
^^FL S4's should be taking advantage of this opportunity, lol.... not one indy shop has charged under $600 according to this site
jnicho1
08-08-2017, 07:23 AM
^^FL S4's should be taking advantage of this opportunity, lol.... not one indy shop has charged under $600 according to this site
I got it done for around $400 I think - took about 3 hours. Recommended (from here) tuner/indy shop south of Baltimore. Will definitely be going back for other repairs/upgrades. I think they'd prefer to do tuner mods, but it's probably an incredibly easy job for them and quick $.
It's almost disturbing the dealership would charge north of a grand.
I got it done for around $400 I think - took about 3 hours. Recommended (from here) tuner/indy shop south of Baltimore. Will definitely be going back for other repairs/upgrades. I think they'd prefer to do tuner mods, but it's probably an incredibly easy job for them and quick $.
It's almost disturbing the dealership would charge north of a grand.
Where did you have it done? If you don't feel comfortable posting shop name, PM me. I keep secrets good haha There's couple of shops that came to mind, but wasn't sure which one.
JD S4
08-08-2017, 07:51 AM
For the rest of you guys paying to do this - the poster above is right.. I wouldn't say "ridiculously easy" -- but for a home mechanic this is probably a 4 out of 10.. It's a really simple job.. Taking the supercharger off is fairly easy.. You should be able to get it done in 2-4 hours at home and the part is only like $70.. I'm not the type who would recommend doing complex shit for someone who doesn't know cars - but this is just not that hard..
6 bolts
Maybe 4-5 sensors you disconnect
Undo supercharger belt - boom - there is your t-stat.
Not trolling, it's ridiculously easy to replace the t-stat. 6 bolts holding the SC, remove SC belt, put different colored zip ties on the connector and mark them so you know where they go. Disconnect the intake and sensors, a coolant hose and that's literally it. Not worth anywhere close to $1k+.
I just did mine last week. It's far from "ridiculously easy". It's not hard, but it's kind of a pain in the ass and to claim it's a 1 hour or less job is laughable. How did you move the coolant line without removing the water pump pulley? Hell, bleeding the cooling system when finished will take you 30 minutes easy if you don't have an airlift.
For the rest of you guys paying to do this - the poster above is right.. I wouldn't say "ridiculously easy" -- but for a home mechanic this is probably a 4 out of 10.. It's a really simple job.. Taking the supercharger off is fairly easy.. You should be able to get it done in 2-4 hours at home and the part is only like $70.. I'm not the type who would recommend doing complex shit for someone who doesn't know cars - but this is just not that hard..
6 bolts
Maybe 4-5 sensors you disconnect
Undo supercharger belt - boom - there is your t-stat.
OEM t-stat is $45 on Amazon with free 1 day prime shipping if you're a Prime member.
Yes, removing supercharger exposes the t-stat, but you need to remove the water pump pulley and move front coolant line to actually remove the t-stat. The fasteners on those items are not easy to access.
If someone has done it before I'd say 2-4 hours is a good estimate.
It'd be great whoever tackles this job at home garage, take pictures during the process. If the longest part about this job is bleeding the coolant system, then I don't have a problem doing this DIY.
jdcarnes
08-08-2017, 08:28 AM
It'd be great whoever tackles this job at home garage, take pictures during the process. If the longest part about this job is bleeding the coolant system, then I don't have a problem doing this DIY.
On another forum, This is the write up I used.
http://audirevolution .net/forum/index.php?topic=3247.0
EDIT:
Won't let me post the link. Just take the spaces out.
Depending on my schedule, I would be willing to help a DIY do the task for those in the DMV, Frederick, NoVa area.
It'd be great whoever tackles this job at home garage, take pictures during the process. If the longest part about this job is bleeding the coolant system, then I don't have a problem doing this DIY.
Of course there is already DIY out there.
K4u2luz2
08-08-2017, 09:00 AM
Mine just went at 111K miles and its a 2011. The plastic prongs that hold the springs cracked and the spring pressure pushes the spring down killing the functionality. This is a very poor design and it will definitely fail again, the question will just be when.
Moving on, I did the repair last weekend and it is a freaking nightmare (just like repairing anything on these cars). If you can afford to pay someone, PAY SOMEONE. If not (like me) then do it yourself and curse Audi and its over complicated, poor location, poor tight design many times over. No matter who does the repair or how many times you have done this repair before there is no way in hell its under a four+ hour repair.
K4u2luz2
08-08-2017, 09:06 AM
The tell tale signs will be if you come up to a stop light/stop sign on a normal to cool day under normal driving conditions and the fans are on HIGH and loud. Mine were so loud 3 days before the thermostat quit (and overheated the car on the freeway during rush hour) that I had people at the traffic light looking at me funny. I even told my coworkers the morning before the failure "I think my thermostat is going, my cars sounds like I have a small airplane stuck under the hood."
It'd be great whoever tackles this job at home garage, take pictures during the process. If the longest part about this job is bleeding the coolant system, then I don't have a problem doing this DIY.
Here is the you tube vid of the whole job.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xyZLjJOxBvQ
jonwoods
08-08-2017, 10:43 AM
Is this worth addressing proactively? Are newer parts any more/less failure prone?
ie: Leave the one I have that could fail at any time or replace it with a new one that might also fail at any time.
It sounds like a plastic embrittlement issue which will increase the liklihood of failure over time....
$70 and 4 hours of my time is worth the peace of mind...
jdcarnes
08-08-2017, 11:18 AM
Is this worth addressing proactively? Are newer parts any more/less failure prone?
ie: Leave the one I have that could fail at any time or replace it with a new one that might also fail at any time.
It sounds like a plastic embrittlement issue which will increase the liklihood of failure over time....
$70 and 4 hours of my time is worth the peace of mind...
There was a superseded part number that is supposedly better than the older one.
If you are a DIY person, Thermostat for $50 USD (Amazon/ECS/ETC..) or $100 USD (ECS with coolant and sensor) and 4-5 hours is nothing every 50k miles or so.
It beats breaking down on the side of the road. Plus a potential tow bill and possibly not having time to fix it.
Mine was done at 56k under warranty and at 115k by me.
PenttisHSR
08-08-2017, 03:18 PM
Contemplating doing this for peace of mind, mine's a 2010 metal water pump.
No history of a thermostat change.
Are these the correct part Nos. ?
Water Pump 06E 121 018 A
Thermostat 06E 121 111 AL
Intake Gaskets x 6 079 129 717 D
PCV / Oil separator, anybody done this whilst there? 06E 103 547 AC or 06E 103 547 Q (what's the difference and is there a software update issue?)
PCV is expensive, Audi do a repair Kit. This would be cheaper and avoid any software issue.
Anybody know part No. for PCV repair kit?
Nick2011B8S4
08-08-2017, 03:23 PM
Had the same symptoms when mine went about a month ago. Fans would run almost all the time. Local Indy shop swapped it out for $650.
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KimmoL
08-09-2017, 08:41 AM
PCV is expensive, Audi do a repair Kit. This would be cheaper and avoid any software issue.
Anybody know part No. for PCV repair kit?
PCV Repair kit 06E103772G (https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-volkswagen-audi-parts/ventilatio/06e103772g/). I found the number here. (http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/695076-Changed-my-supercharger-oil).
kynovs4
08-09-2017, 09:14 AM
Hmm, I might be doing this soon. Was driving home from work yesterday and when I got home the fans were still running. Checked out the temps today with an OBDII app and while cruising the temps would creep into the mid 220s then settle back to around 215. At idle the temps remained okay. My t-stat was just replaced 13k miles ago too :-/
b8s4me
08-09-2017, 10:13 AM
I just did mine last week. It's far from "ridiculously easy". It's not hard, but it's kind of a pain in the ass and to claim it's a 1 hour or less job is laughable. How did you move the coolant line without removing the water pump pulley? Hell, bleeding the cooling system when finished will take you 30 minutes easy if you don't have an airlift.
You do NOT need to remove the water pump pulley, I don't know why you even did this. If you're talking about that coolant line, it's held against the t-stat by 1 bolt on the bottom, that's it. You can wiggle the t-stat enough to twist past the line.
PenttisHSR
08-09-2017, 01:45 PM
PCV Repair kit 06E103772G (https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-volkswagen-audi-parts/ventilatio/06e103772g/). I found the number here. (http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/695076-Changed-my-supercharger-oil).
That's Great, Thanks!
Seems there is a restrictor (to reduce pressure on the valve) in the OE Kit which is why there is a software update.
By not fitting the restrictor and keeping original pressure, obviously no software update is needed.
Whilst doing this job, now thinking of adding Crank Pulley too.
So it's Water pump, Thermostat, PCV, Crank Pulley in one hit.
Jroyalty7
08-09-2017, 02:20 PM
That's Great, Thanks!
Seems there is a restrictor (to reduce pressure on the valve) in the OE Kit which is why there is a software update.
By not fitting the restrictor and keeping original pressure, obviously no software update is needed.
Whilst doing this job, now thinking of adding Crank Pulley too.
So it's Water pump, Thermostat, PCV, Crank Pulley in one hit.
So I talked to several dealerships about this as I plan on upgrading my pcv while doing some other maintenance things, I was told by all but one of them that no software update was necessary unless my car had an oil consumption issue. Do you have a source as far as the ECU update being necessary? Doing mine in a couple weeks 2013 s4.
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jdcarnes
08-09-2017, 04:40 PM
That's Great, Thanks!
Seems there is a restrictor (to reduce pressure on the valve) in the OE Kit which is why there is a software update.
By not fitting the restrictor and keeping original pressure, obviously no software update is needed.
Whilst doing this job, now thinking of adding Crank Pulley too.
So it's Water pump, Thermostat, PCV, Crank Pulley in one hit.
If you're going for a complete preventable maintenance plan, might as well add a carbon cleaning of the valves.
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JD S4
08-09-2017, 04:58 PM
You do NOT need to remove the water pump pulley, I don't know why you even did this. If you're talking about that coolant line, it's held against the t-stat by 1 bolt on the bottom, that's it. You can wiggle the t-stat enough to twist past the line.
THis..
But I also broke a t-stat since I didn't pull that line back far enough. :)
You do NOT need to remove the water pump pulley, I don't know why you even did this. If you're talking about that coolant line, it's held against the t-stat by 1 bolt on the bottom, that's it. You can wiggle the t-stat enough to twist past the line.
Sounds like a really great way to potentially crack the plastic coolant line. That line is also bolted to each head with 2 bolts, so no, it's not only held with 1 bolt.
To PROPERLY move the line out of the way without forcing things, you need to remove the water pump pulley. Furthermore, the silver fuel line that runs along the left side of the thermostat impeded removal and installation even with the coolant line completely out of the way. Would be really easy to damage the new thermostat during installation too with your "method".
Taking shortcuts like this may save you a little time in the short term but you'll eventually break something expensive and cost yourself lots more time and money.
b8s4me
08-10-2017, 07:47 AM
Sounds like a really great way to potentially crack the plastic coolant line. That line is also bolted to each head with 2 bolts, so no, it's not only held with 1 bolt.
To PROPERLY move the line out of the way without forcing things, you need to remove the water pump pulley. Furthermore, the silver fuel line that runs along the left side of the thermostat impeded removal and installation even with the coolant line completely out of the way. Would be really easy to damage the new thermostat during installation too with your "method".
Taking shortcuts like this may save you a little time in the short term but you'll eventually break something expensive and cost yourself lots more time and money.
I know exactly what you're talking about. Maybe someone who is impatient or has big hands would have issue. You're acting as if that hard line is brittle; it is in fact very durable, obviously enough that it handles high temp and pressure. You would need a lot of force to break it. We both have running cars with new t-stats and spent different amounts of time, so this is in no way a short cut. Iirc it's only about 1/4"-1/8" in the way not completely obstructing the t-stat. We could continue arguing in this thread, but at the end of the day I changed my t-stat without spending 1+hours putting into service position and removing the water pump pulley/belt then reversing order, and I did not damage anything along the way. Many others have done the same, in fact I believe I followed a how-to which didn't state to remove the water pump.
I know exactly what you're talking about. Maybe someone who is impatient or has big hands would have issue. You're acting as if that hard line is brittle; it is in fact very durable, obviously enough that it handles high temp and pressure. You would need a lot of force to break it. We both have running cars with new t-stats and spent different amounts of time, so this is in no way a short cut. Iirc it's only about 1/4"-1/8" in the way not completely obstructing the t-stat. We could continue arguing in this thread, but at the end of the day I changed my t-stat without spending 1+hours putting into service position and removing the water pump pulley/belt then reversing order, and I did not damage anything along the way. Many others have done the same, in fact I believe I followed a how-to which didn't state to remove the water pump.
As you stated it's a HARD line, and is not designed to have torque applied to it. Whatever. My point here is you are selling this as a super easy, less than 1 hour job to the community as a whole. Based on completing this job recently, it's disingenuous to tell reluctant DIYer's on here that it's a simple, super quick job.
b8s4me
08-10-2017, 10:55 AM
As you stated it's a HARD line, and is not designed to have torque applied to it. Whatever. My point here is you are selling this as a super easy, less than 1 hour job to the community as a whole. Based on completing this job recently, it's disingenuous to tell reluctant DIYer's on here that it's a simple, super quick job.
You do NOT need to move the hard line AT ALL. You maneuver the t-stat under it without applying ANY pressure onto the line. And I'm willing to bet I could do it in under an hour, assuming it's not put into service position and water pump pulley removed. Nothing you do to change the t-stat is complicated. If you can turn a wrench and unplug connectors you're 90% there. Like I said in a previous post, all this involves is removing the belt, disconnecting sensors/vacuum lines which if you color code makes everything simple, disconnect coolant line, undo 6 SC bolts and lift SC up, replace the t-stat. That is literally every step involved in changing the t-stat. If someone takes me up on the offer to change the t-stat I will film it just for you [rolleyes]
You seem pissy you took the hard route.
PenttisHSR
08-10-2017, 02:32 PM
So I talked to several dealerships about this as I plan on upgrading my pcv while doing some other maintenance things, I was told by all but one of them that no software update was necessary unless my car had an oil consumption issue. Do you have a source as far as the ECU update being necessary? Doing mine in a couple weeks 2013 s4.
Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
Source here Post #14............. http://www.audi-sport.net/xf/threads/s4-3-0t-oil-consumption.301059/
Which contains a Link back to the original Link I was given!
You do NOT need to move the hard line AT ALL. You maneuver the t-stat under it without applying ANY pressure onto the line. And I'm willing to bet I could do it in under an hour, assuming it's not put into service position and water pump pulley removed. Nothing you do to change the t-stat is complicated. If you can turn a wrench and unplug connectors you're 90% there. Like I said in a previous post, all this involves is removing the belt, disconnecting sensors/vacuum lines which if you color code makes everything simple, disconnect coolant line, undo 6 SC bolts and lift SC up, replace the t-stat. That is literally every step involved in changing the t-stat. If someone takes me up on the offer to change the t-stat I will film it just for you [rolleyes]
You seem pissy you took the hard route.
I had to move the hard line. I tried to get it out without moving it. I don't think all 3.0Ts are exactly the same based on what I'm seeing here. I watched the part of the video posted on the first page of the thermostat removal. The fuel line in that video is routed slightly differently vs my car. On my car the metal fuel line runs REALLY close to (and kind of over top of) the left side of the thermostat housing. So close that I couldn't get the old thermostat out without first moving the coolant hard line out of the way a little.
Pissy? lol