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710motorsports
05-26-2017, 01:29 PM
So this is basically my write up on my 2.7t swap into my 2006 A4 Quattro. The car is not done but so close I'd figure I'd start the write up now as there is a bunch of snags I have run into. This chassis is definitely the hardest to work with. I started with a wrecked 2006 Audi A4 Quattro Tip, bought it for $900 cash. Sold the engine and trans for $1,400 so start the build off right. After replacing all the panels and getting everything straight it was time to find an engine. I found an APB from an automatic here in Denver for $1100 complete with wiring harness, turbos, and mated to a tip trans. Just some advice to others contemplating this swap weather it's the b6 or b7 you're better off getting a parts car Rather than piecing it all together or it'll Nickel and dime you to death. I was lucky and able to trade my stock turbos and auto trans for the 01E.

Here's a list of parts you will need for both the manual swap and the 2.7 swap. Most of it is b6/b7 only a few items are b7 only I'll make sure to put and * next to the manual swap items. I will also include the prices I paid for each item, not that you will pay the same, just an idea

1.) 2.7t pre 02 is preferred for the bolt down coils and no immobilizer the most important part is getting the COMPLETE motor with EVERYTHING.-----$1,100
2.) a6/c5 power steering line from rack and pinion to the back of the 2.7 where the PS hardline from the pump ends.------$20
3.) 3.0 ac compressor AND MOUNT TO MOTOR----20
4.) Rack and carrier, complete with fans, PS cooler, radiator and ac condenser must be from a 1.8t or 3.0. pulled mine from an allroad so I wouldn't need a different motor mount but some people say they need the 3.0 but they have to alter the radiator hoses, the hoses Match up perfect with the 2.7 core support--40
*5.)01e trans with linkage, shifter, boot, trim----$0
*6.) Flywheel-$400
*7.) flywheel bolts-$40
*8.) compete clutch kit with pilot bearing
*9.) pedal cluster
*10.) rear dif from manual car b6 a6 fits b5 s4 does not as it is elongated on the snout that mount to drive shaft
*11.) drive shaft and axels.
12.) either some wiring knowledge or get ahold of Clint and have him make your harness like he's doing for me due to my colorblindness I didn't want to even try to butcher that harness.
13.) 1.8t fuel filter, about 20ft of 5/16" line

I stripped the motor to the head gaskets, replaced head gaskets, water pump, timing belt, valve cover gaskets, intake manifold gaskets, exhaust manifold gaskets.

As far as after market goes
BW Ko4's
forge BOV's
XS power turbo inlet pipes
52lb injectors
85mm MAF housing
034 aluminum LWFW 9lbs
New OEM RS4 clutch for better daily driving. New silicon hoses for everything

After putting the motor back together, I decided to delete the SAI by removing the KOMBI valves, SAI pump, spider hose, and re routing the vc vents and crank vent together. Plugging the passenger side intake manifold poet on the back 3/4" or 1" can't remembers then I adapted the driver side port for a 1/2" hose that I connected to the brake booster.

The clutch, flywheel and turbo and flywheel mounting hardware should be in by the end of next week. At that point I'll match up the engine and trans and slide them in together, until then I will be doing the rear dif, pedal cluster, drive shaft, interior trim, power steering line, trying to sort out the ac condenser, and run the return fuel line, this is kind of tricky but Clint has a DIY Guide on here along with a couple others the only difference between b6 and b7 is the fuel pump control module has to be bypassed on the b7 with a 60amp relay, I think 30 will do but I'm doing 60amp to be safer than sorry.

Here are some of the before pictures I'll be updating this almost daily until the car is finished. And I'll add some updated pictures tomorrow

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170526/f14147c60c4e4ce1b2ab242482b8ef10.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170526/5970c6594a5536ad81dfb2d4da97620e.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170526/fed30edc8fb7a66e60616c0d801a2f26.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170526/5fac10b2abb8abf8ff88342c965f2994.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170526/a15e15ce9075079e2ddfd1c4d332f06c.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170526/18ba5bcff6691b8db99c8b3a7e87df17.jpg


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mec
05-26-2017, 01:48 PM
First!


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710motorsports
05-26-2017, 04:35 PM
First!


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Didn't Ali here in Denver do this to your old red girl?!


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mec
05-28-2017, 11:13 AM
Didn't Ali here in Denver do this to your old red girl?!


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Yep. i helped him put the engine in, but he has done all the details himself. plumbing, wiring, exhaust. Lots of little details that add up.

Super nice guy tho, hit him up for advice if you are stuck

blitz2190
05-31-2017, 09:24 AM
a little pricey on the 2.7 engine but other than that looks like your on the quick path to a fun car. You may also want to add a b6 cluster to that list to not have the gas cap error all the time. If you plan on keeping the b7 cluster you will need a rs4 or a4 b7 oil level sender, same shape as the one for the 2.7 but different signal for the cluster. GL on the build and it will be worth it in the end, way more fun than a 1.8/2.0

Ali SC3
05-31-2017, 11:13 AM
Looking good. I second on the cluster I just sent off a b6 s4 cluster to get coded, got rid of every code on the b7 one except the gas cap couldn't be coded out so making the switch. good luck if you run into any problems let us know!

710motorsports
05-31-2017, 08:21 PM
a little pricey on the 2.7 engine but other than that looks like your on the quick path to a fun car. You may also want to add a b6 cluster to that list to not have the gas cap error all the time. If you plan on keeping the b7 cluster you will need a rs4 or a4 b7 oil level sender, same shape as the one for the 2.7 but different signal for the cluster. GL on the build and it will be worth it in the end, way more fun than a 1.8/2.0

I know I paid a little much for the engine, but he and I had different ideas of complete. So after getting everything piled on that belongs with a complete 2.7 he had his way with me ha! Fck it he's givin me everything else for free or almost free.

But today I went ahead and mounted the Ko4's, put the injectors in, ran the valve cover vents to the crank case vent, I know I should add a catch can but I just wanna see it start before I pull it back out and put the 2.8 heads and RS6rs on. I also blocked off the kombi valves, removed SAI pump, but the passenger side turbo came with a broke waste gate vacuum port, so waiting on that to get in along with the new flywheel bolts then should be ready to drop it in and wait on the wiring harness


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Bob Marley
08-31-2017, 02:40 PM
Are you running the stock fuel pump on this project?

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phrisco
11-17-2017, 09:43 AM
Looking good. I second on the cluster I just sent off a b6 s4 cluster to get coded, got rid of every code on the b7 one except the gas cap couldn't be coded out so making the switch. good luck if you run into any problems let us know!

Where can we send out B6 clusters to get reprogrammed? Does the stock B7 cluster need to be sent as well? Thanks!

blitz2190
11-17-2017, 09:47 AM
I think there was a fix found for the fuel gas cap warning in the b6 swap thread. Not sure if it works but its worth a shot, but then you still need an b7 a4 or b7 rs4 oil level/temp sender to match the cluster.

edit*
http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/486284-The-Official-B6-2-7T-DIY-Swap-Guide?p=12771621&viewfull=1#post12771621

Ali SC3
12-07-2017, 03:32 PM
I sent mine to Tom at speedosolutions. that's interesting with the b7 clutser, almost seems to good to be true but I already switched to the b6 s4 cluster with the reprogramming and everything is working including oil level, and for coolant temp you just add a wire to the cluster harness its in my thread. If I had a nice b7 s4 cluster then I would give the other way a shot, but I like the b6 s4 cluster better than the b7 a4 cluster and even the b7 rs4 cluster I had before (rpm redline is wrong and speedo goes way higher than I need).