View Full Version : rich engine...

12-22-2005, 11:56 AM
my car has been runnin slow lately too..

it boosts strong through 3500 then drops...

I pulled dtc from the vag as 17963 charge pressure upper limit exceeded

and dtc 1745 bank 1 fuel system too rich

we also did a maf graph and I was only reading 55 at redline..

the maf should be around 120 at redline...

not throwing a maf code..but do I need to replace



12-22-2005, 12:13 PM
you're in limp mode. what chip/n75 valve do you have?

12-22-2005, 12:41 PM
Im stock ecu...and stock n75

12-22-2005, 01:28 PM
Sound like the MAF is dead, and then causing you to become rich, and with the price of the new MAF you will become poor. hahha, wasn't that funny?

Buy a rebuilt MAF or a VW Golf 2.0 MAF will work fine, that's what I'm running.

12-22-2005, 01:34 PM
2 questions then...

1) cant I just take it apart and clean it?

2) if no..is there a performance upgrade to a better maf over stock?


12-22-2005, 01:39 PM
You could try to clean it. I tried and it did not work. Also, who to say that it's just dirty.

And you can not upgrade it. The ECU is designed to work with the stock MAF. And upgrade with throw off the A/F ratio.

If you want power you are in a good position, your stock. By a 1.0 Bar chip.

12-22-2005, 01:50 PM

any tutorial you can think of to take the airbox completely apart to clean it??

Ive been saving up for a chip..and I just did my 2.5 " exhaust cat back =)


12-22-2005, 01:59 PM
there are 4 clips holding the airbox cover on.

12-22-2005, 02:12 PM
so I dont have to take it completely out then...nice

12-22-2005, 02:29 PM
The MAF sensor sits inside a drum that is attached to the upper half of the airbox. It lines up with the turbo inlet hose.

FYI, when you get a new MAF, the sensor and drum come as one unit.

When cleaning the MAF, you can clean it while it's still in the drum, or alternatively, take it out of the drum.

To take it out you need a torx bit (T-25 or T-30 I believe). However, the torx bit needs to have a small hole in the center. It's supposed to be a tamper proof design. Instead you can get a flat screwdriver and wedge it in the torx head and turn it that way.

12-22-2005, 02:31 PM
Also, there's a writup on AW for cleaning a MAF.

12-22-2005, 02:57 PM
Found this:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Bosch-MAF-sensor-Audi-a4_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33557QQitemZ80231063 64QQrdZ1

You'd be taking your chances, it's used.

EDIT: Item #8023106364

12-22-2005, 05:39 PM
thanks bro..appreciate it..

actually I took it apart earlier...it seemed fine...how can I tell if its broken? seemingly the way my car is running that would be the case but Im just not sure...

dont know if that one on ebay would be good I have a ATW engine code plus 75000 mi is more than I have on mine..but good lookin out

let me know what you think


12-22-2005, 06:07 PM
i have heard its much better to buy a rebuilt maf than it is to buy a new one. Rebuilt mafs go through rigorous testing where the new ones dont. Hope this might help incase you need to get another unit

12-22-2005, 06:16 PM
thanks thats what I would do .. I would go through ecs tuning..

the problem is I dont know if its the maf..

what else would cause my turbo to back off so much??

12-22-2005, 08:45 PM
Well the way to tell would be taking the readings. When you say it only read 55 g/s at redline, were you WOT? (Wide Open Throttle).

If so, it's the MAF bud. Ya don't bother with that MAF on eBay. Just get a rebuilt one like nismosx said, it's a much better plan, and ECS sells em', from my experience, they're a good company.

12-23-2005, 01:22 PM
Great ...sounds like thats what Im gonna do...

and I already know how to take my airbox apart..pratice makes perfect..lol

Merry Christmas guys..