View Full Version : need help with 1.8t motor

04-26-2017, 07:16 AM
ok so i have just rebuilt the valve train and installed a new k03 turbo. however after the car runns for about 10-15 mins, she starts knocking (it sounds horable), Ive had this car for a little over a year now and i am died to drive it but with issues like this i dont see it happening. Im wondering if i need a new oil pump or what? When i last pulled the oil pan to check to see if anything was in it, I did find metal that i have mark up to "old metal that was apart or the old turbo when it blew up.

04-26-2017, 08:48 AM
Metal in the pan is never good. Where does the knocking come from? Head? Block? Have you checked oil pressure? Compression?

What was the need for rebuilding the valve train? Other failure?

04-26-2017, 09:34 AM
well when i had bought it, it had a bad turbo that the seller didnt disclose to me. so when it blow i saw white smoke and went stright to the head gasket and later found out about the turbo. so with a new turbo in haul, i had the cylinder head decked and pressure checked (all good) installed and now im here.

04-26-2017, 10:04 AM
If it's a terrible clanking/chattering noise from the very rear of the valve cover, near the firewall, that is your cam chain tensioner. Well, more specifically, it is your loose cam chain that is slapping around and making the noise. It is the fault of the cam chain tensioner not applying enough tension at idle. Here's an example of the noise:

You can be pretty certain it's the tensioner if the noise magically goes away if you rev it above 2,000 rpms or so.

This failure happens much more often on the VVT (variable valve timing) version of the cam chain tensioner on 2001+ models. The VVT version is more correctly called a "Cam Chain Adjuster" due to this added purpose. That one has more moving parts and tends to have the clanking failure more than the simpler non-VVT version. The problem happens 15 minutes into run time because that is when the oil warms up and oil pressure at idle comes down. Cold oil pressure at idle is probably 60-80psi. When its all warmed up it comes down to 15-20psi. When the tensioner is worn out, it hemorrhages oil pressure through loose tolerances of the piston. When pressure is high (either because cold temp or higher revs) it can keep up with the leaks. But at hot idle it cannot and it operates basically on spring pressure alone. The piece requires spring pressure in addition to oil pressure to obtain full tension.

04-26-2017, 10:28 AM
yeah i know exatly what the cam tensioner is. I do have another one(new) but i dont have the cam tension tool. I'd really hate to pull the cams just to change it out. However The sound does go away when i step on the gas.

04-26-2017, 11:34 AM
Tool is only like 5 bucks, only have to move the intake cam, no need to remove both cams, it's really an easy job that only takes 20-30 minutes start to finish. Pull the valve cover and you should be able to tell. When mine started to fail I could see wear on the aluminum where the chain was slapping around, not to mention the awful noise it made.

04-26-2017, 11:51 AM
The new ones usually come with the tool. It holds them together in transit. But if you don't have one they are 5 or 6 bucks shipped on ebay.

I think 20-30 minutes is possible, if this is a race between mechanics or something. A first timer will be lucky to have the valve cover off in 20 minutes, so figure about 2-3 hours the first go-round.

04-26-2017, 11:56 AM
Good point. I've done it 100 times so I guess i'm not being objective lol

04-26-2017, 12:16 PM
yeah i agree it shouldnt take me but maybe 30-45 mins tops if i Dont F*** off a little while doing it to. But thanks for the advise i never even thought about that. How long do the shoes on those last, and are the black shoes "better" than the other ones?

01-18-2018, 05:30 PM
After replacing the cam chain tensioner I'm now getting noises like these. https://youtu.be/lT3ou-phIwI

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