Audi A6 C7 Engine Motor Mount DIY passenger side

[BOPOH]

This is the way i did it:

Part Number: 4G0199381LF - Passenger Side(US) Engine/Motor Mount

1. remove pass wheel
2. remove fender liners, 1 big and 1 connected to bumper
3. remove little bracket around axle
4. remove airbox

https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2883/33391052103_f02f1b41f0_k.jpg

5. lift engine a little
6. remove 3 bolts, two 16mm and one 14mm-12 point (second picture show it removed)

https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2917/33359350344_21447b6ba7_k.jpg https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2899/33817570520_641ef03bc9_k.jpg

7. remove bracket holding engine mount 2 10mm-12point (right bolt removed)

https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4155/33359349764_b4a3b7566f_k.jpg

8. remove wiring bracket one 16mm nut (IIRC) (i'm holding it on second picture)

https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2917/33359350344_21447b6ba7_k.jpg
https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2940/33359348764_68791da164_k.jpg

9. cut zip-tie holding alternator wires to above bracket

https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2871/33359349114_6f0cfc1a09_k.jpg
https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2885/33359346184_1e78770e9e_k.jpg

10. unplug engine mount

https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2887/33359348564_1164dae211_k.jpg

11. raise engine slightly more

12. remove bracket holding engine mount, lift it up and wiggle it to the back of the engine behind engine mount

https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4156/33817553150_d552c9b18e_k.jpg

13. wiggle engine mount, turn it 90 degrees counter-clockwise and slide it out

https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2924/33359347184_c73ff493c4_k.jpg
https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2934/33359345764_60756d0e41_k.jpg

reassemble in reverse order

https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4179/34070959931_428d68eeda_k.jpg
https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2900/34201766225_df4cacabaa_k.jpg



Some extra pictures, no visible damage or wear

https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2945/33817576360_712c7ace5a_k.jpg

When i was removing center bolt, 3/8" to 1/2" adapter twisted
https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2836/34044563582_363a66dd16_k.jpg

more pictures are HERE (https://flic.kr/s/aHskYfQrUh)

[tenspeed]

This is the way i did it:
~
~
reassemble in reverse order

i will import pictures to this thread later, got OBEleven to play with

Thanks!

Hope I never have to replace it...

[ryanwerling78]

Did you just do the passenger side? I got passenger side done no issues.

The driver side is not too easy. Looking for a guide if anyone has one.

[SpectreGadget]

Thanks for the write-up! I have a feeling mine are in need of replacement, given the way it idles, but I'm not ready to tackle it quite yet. :)

[jpjmustang]

looks like a tough job - thanks for the step by step

I guess the Knob Creek was for the celebration when the job as done?

[jrp916]

Nice write up! Any idea on how long it takes to replace the passenger mount?


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[clettngx]

You need to remove oil cooler for one thing.

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[akingzkid]

You need to remove oil cooler for one thing.

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Remove the oil cooler to do the driver's side? Or passenger side? Thanks

[Shane Horning]

Remove the oil cooler to do the driver's side? Or passenger side? ThanksRemove oil cooler for drivers side

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[07S6]

Thanks for the write up. I just had an oil change and my tech advised me that at least one of my motor mounts is on its way out. I only get the slightest vibration at times when i engage D while at a standstill. We discussed the 034 Motorsports mounts that will never need replacing again, and more cost effective.
I just priced them out and it turns out the OEM mounts are actually a tad cheaper online than the 034 mounts which sell for $216.
I didn't see a lot of feedback on here regarding the aftermarket mounts. Is there any compelling reason to not stick with OEM? I'm at 100K miles and i'm not aware that mine have been changed before so perhaps i got lucky they lasted this long..

[MBM6F]

Nice write up. Thanks for sharing.

[DetRebel]

Thanks for the write up. I just had an oil change and my tech advised me that at least one of my motor mounts is on its way out. I only get the slightest vibration at times when i engage D while at a standstill. We discussed the 034 Motorsports mounts that will never need replacing again, and more cost effective.
I just priced them out and it turns out the OEM mounts are actually a tad cheaper online than the 034 mounts which sell for $216.
I didn't see a lot of feedback on here regarding the aftermarket mounts. Is there any compelling reason to not stick with OEM? I'm at 100K miles and i'm not aware that mine have been changed before so perhaps i got lucky they lasted this long..

Some people have complained about the 034 mounts creating more NVH or vibration at idle. They created a less stiff version soon after.

The 034 ones are supposed to last much longer than the OEM ones


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[akingzkid]

Remove oil cooler for drivers side

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Gotcha. Thanks.

[jrp916]

Some people have complained about the 034 mounts creating more NVH or vibration at idle. They created a less stiff version soon after.

The 034 ones are supposed to last much longer than the OEM ones


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I have the street version 034 mounts for the 3.0t. Since one of my oem mounts was already bad my nvh got better and at idle it was smoother.


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[mariccadonna]

Do you have to have the car level on jack stands for this, or are you able to just jack up the front end?

[mariccadonna]

I just did my passenger side today, and it wasn't too hard! Thanks to the great original write up. I will say that you only have to jack up the front end. I attached pictures of my broken mount and it was in horrible condition. I drive a 2012 A6 3.0t with 150,000 miles. I bought the car with 90,000 miles, I'm not sure if the previous owner replaced the motor mounts or not. I want to say that I noticed something up with jerkiness when shifting at about 140k-145k. But I only recently tried to do the power brake test and my engine was lifted up about 4 inches. I haven't been driving the car hard at all in the past 10k miles, mostly just highway. I'm glad I could do this myself, and I'm going to replace the driverside mount soon. I'll definitely make a post/video of doing it because I know it is more complex with removing the oil cooler, and there is no real DIY post on it. The driver side doesn't seem as broken but I will replace it as preventative maintenance.

Here is the mount I used: https://www.europaparts.com/motor-mount-4g0199381lf.html

https://ibb.co/89Bdg6F
https://ibb.co/Jvb7XqX
https://ibb.co/7gpNFTk
https://ibb.co/F4gkD4J
https://ibb.co/F6PLPHx
https://ibb.co/Svxybvy

[07S6]

I just did my passenger side today, and it wasn't too hard! Thanks to the great original write up. I will say that you only have to jack up the front end. I attached pictures of my broken mount and it was in horrible condition. I drive a 2012 A6 3.0t with 150,000 miles. I bought the car with 90,000 miles, I'm not sure if the previous owner replaced the motor mounts or not. I want to say that I noticed something up with jerkiness when shifting at about 140k-145k. But I only recently tried to do the power brake test and my engine was lifted up about 4 inches. I haven't been driving the car hard at all in the past 10k miles, mostly just highway. I'm glad I could do this myself, and I'm going to replace the driverside mount soon. I'll definitely make a post/video of doing it because I know it is more complex with removing the oil cooler, and there is no real DIY post on it. The driver side doesn't seem as broken but I will replace it as preventative maintenance.

Here is the mount I used: https://www.europaparts.com/motor-mount-4g0199381lf.html


I noticed it says the new part replaces/supersedes a previous part#. Do we know if Audi has updated the mount over time to improve it/increase durability? Has anyone replaced their original mount with OEM and had it fail again prematurely? I'm getting ready to replace mine and torn between OEM and the 034 mounts. About the same price for both options.

[quattroism25]

I have the 034 mounts and they failed after about 15 months. Going back to OEM, but purchasing from FCP Euro. If they fail, which seems the c7 is notorious for, it'll be under warranty.

[gk1]

I have the 034 mounts and they failed after about 15 months. Going back to OEM, but purchasing from FCP Euro. If they fail, which seems the c7 is notorious for, it'll be under warranty.

Curious, this is the first I've heard of the solid 034 mounts failing. Can you give us some more details into how exactly they failed?

[quattroism25]

I had the exact same nvh as I did prior to install. Once I remove them I'll further details.

[gk1]

I had the exact same nvh as I did prior to install. Once I remove them I'll further details.

OK, keep us posted. Maybe not failed, just didn't resolve your issue.
Could be you have a trans mount issue?

[quattroism25]

OK, keep us posted. Maybe not failed, just didn't resolve your issue.
Could be you have a trans mount issue?

Are the trans mounts failure prone too? I didn't consider it before.

[gk1]

Are the trans mounts failure prone too? I didn't consider it before.

Prone, maybe not, but anything is possible. Almost certainly more possible than somehow breaking the brand new 034 solid motor mounts.
I know I put the trans mount insert like you have in my SQ5 and it absolutely made the slight idle vibration I have had since new worse so nvh and the trans mount can go hand in hand.

[Valpo A7]

Trying to source a set of mounts at the moment for my A7. Mine are original at 205,000 miles. GK1 suggested I change them as I have the engine out for timing chains at the moment. Both of mine are still intact but showing their age. Passenger side is starting to dry rot and the driver side is starting to rip. Seems that you can easily find the passenger side but not many carry the driver side mount.

Looking for affordable units. Best price I can find is about $300 for a set, I think I saw a set on eBay for under $200 but I’d have to buy from 2 vendors

[89legendcoupe]

I just installed the 034 motorsports mounts and was shocked when I got to the drivers side mount. I fought with the passenger side mount with the alternator wiring for a bit, but the drivers side mount had no obstructions at all. Maybe the C7.5 3.0t is different but it was about 15 minutes on the drivers side vs 45 or so on the passenger side. My only suggestion for the drivers side is take the rear subframe bolt out because it is in the way of the rear engine mount bolt. I also could not figure out why removing the air box is needed. This was about a 2.5-3hr job from start to finish with most of the time occupied finding tools, jacking the car up, putting it on stands and adjusting the height of the jack under the oil pan to line up the engine mount bolt holes.

[jrp916]

Interesting my shop claimed it took them about 7 hours to do my c7 mounts, I would think they would be similar?


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[dafried]

Thank you for this post and pics! Just did this on my ride yesterday. Used the 034 mount. Old passenger mount was completely shot and I have 110k miles.

Now if only I could figure out the driver's side....

Thank you once again for taking the time to post all the pics - it was hugely helpful!

[WowAudi]

OP thank you for the great write up. So I tried to do my driverside motor mount but keep rounding out my size 14 triple square bits. Is there something I'm doing wrong?

[Shane Horning]

OP thank you for the great write up. So I tried to do my driverside motor mount but keep rounding out my size 14 triple square bits. Is there something I'm doing wrong?The bolt holding eng mount to eng? Use a socket, I believe 17 or 18mm. That bolt has internal triple square but also a hex head

[WowAudi]

No the actual triple square bolt that holds the motor mount to the engine mount. It's one of the three bolts that needs to be unbolted to remove the motor mount.

[Shane Horning]

No the actual triple square bolt that holds the motor mount to the engine mount. It's one of the three bolts that needs to be unbolted to remove the motor mount.Yea that one should have a hex head too. I never had success using the triple squares on that particular bolt

[WowAudi]

Yea that one should have a hex head too. I never had success using the triple squares on that particular bolt

Did you use a impact wrench?

[Shane Horning]

Did you use a impact wrench?No just a big ratchet

[WowAudi]

No just a big ratchet

I'll give the hex bit a try.
Thanks

[WowAudi]

Shane Horning one more question.
Did you use a engine holder or did you use the jack with the 2x4 on the oil pan?
Thanks

[paulo744]

Shane Horning one more question.
Did you use a engine holder or did you use the jack with the 2x4 on the oil pan?
Thanks

I used a piece of wood and a jack. You dont need to hoist the engine up much, maybe half an inch higher.

Definitely remove the wire since that is in the way of removing the mount

[Shane Horning]

×2

[WowAudi]

Thanks Shane Horning and paulo744

[BB c7]

Hello. Did anyone able to change driver side engine mount? If so please share more details. Do i really need to remove engine cooler ? Is there anything else in the way ? It is for a6 c7 3.0t. Thanks in advice.


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[Valpo A7]

Even when putting the engine back in the car after doing the timing chains I had to remove the oil cooler.

[sepheroth86]

My center mount bolt is ONLY triple square. It is round on the outside. How tight are these things usually?

Mine seem to be REALLY tight and I am worried about breaking them or rounding off the triple square or something. Any advice?

[Spitfire007]

2016 a6 at 74xxx miles. My passenger side mount has spewed all of its fluid. The SA told me that unless I actually feel anything, it's not even worth changing it out. If and when I start to feel some vibrations, then it's time to do it.
Driver's side was done under warranty at 45k, and I definitely felt that one when it was bad.

Thanks for the writeup


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[sepheroth86]

2016 a6 at 74xxx miles. My passenger side mount has spewed all of its fluid. The SA told me that unless I actually feel anything, it's not even worth changing it out. If and when I start to feel some vibrations, then it's time to do it.
Driver's side was done under warranty at 45k, and I definitely felt that one when it was bad.

Thanks for the writeup


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My RH side cat broke off at the flange. I suspect a weak mount was partially to blame.

[TheBlackMarvel]

2016 a6 at 74xxx miles. My passenger side mount has spewed all of its fluid. The SA told me that unless I actually feel anything, it's not even worth changing it out. If and when I start to feel some vibrations, then it's time to do it.
Driver's side was done under warranty at 45k, and I definitely felt that one when it was bad.

Thanks for the writeup


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I think this is good advice. Mine had both spilt their guts (2016 A6, 50k miles) and I thought this might be creating an issue, but I had them both replaced with 034 mounts and I could barely barely tell. Probably could have saved the money.


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[Spitfire007]

Mmm. This forum is full of wisdom!
So if I sense there is a lot of movement ill just get it changed.
I certainly don't want to mess with cats. Yeah, I could do test pipes, but will that pass PA emissions? Dunno.


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[Valpo A7]

My RH side cat broke off at the flange. I suspect a weak mount was partially to blame.

Mine broke after a new mount. In looking at the factory weld it was shit. The jig was not set up correctly when assembled. Good weld penetration to the pipe but shit penetration to the flange. There have been several broken on the forum. When it’s time to look for a replacement cat, the passenger side sells out much faster than the driver side


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[sepheroth86]

Mine broke after a new mount. In looking at the factory weld it was shit. The jig was not set up correctly when assembled. Good weld penetration to the pipe but shit penetration to the flange. There have been several broken on the forum. When it’s time to look for a replacement cat, the passenger side sells out much faster than the driver side


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I pulled mine, had them re welded. Then I gutted them.

Removing the oil cooler for the driver mount is not fun. The A/C compressor also takes up some space there, making it a bit more of a hassle to remove/install.

BE CAREFUL with those aluminum screws that hold the oil cooler on. One of mine broke inside the block upon reinstall.

[ALittleWiserNow]

Great write-up. That said, DO NOT DO #3. It isn't necessary and took me three hours to get the bolts back in to the shield. They are in a very difficult spot behind the frame at an angle that is very hard to get to. Also, # 4 is also unnecessary. All you have to do is disconnect the air duct from the throttle body (loosen clamp and pull off) do nothing is stressed when you jack the engine up. Lastly, DO NOT jack up the engine without removing at least the engine bolt (Spline/Triple Square 14mm) from BOTH mounts and DO NOT PUT one side fully together before the other motor mount is at least in place without bolts. The reason is because jacking the mounts as much as is needed to individually remove the other can severely stress/break the mount (even a new one) because you are hanging the car from ONLY the rubber mount (when connected). Lastly, read this, including my suggestions for the driver's side:
https://www.audiworld.com/forums/a6-c7-platform-discussion-194/drivers-side-motor-mount-diy-3021211/

[Valpo A7]

Torque values for the job. For conversion: 1 Nm = 0.7376 ft-lbs

282605

[Gekbi]

Curious as to what the common signs and symptoms are of a failing engine mount. My S7 shakes like heck between 60-80 mph., but is fine otherwise.

[Alabama]

Curious as to what the common signs and symptoms are of a failing engine mount. My S7 shakes like heck between 60-80 mph., but is fine otherwise.

Search for AZ thread "Testing engine/motor mounts".

[Valpo A7]

Shaking between 60 and 80 is more than likely wheel balancing.

[ALittleWiserNow]

Curious as to what the common signs and symptoms are of a failing engine mount. My S7 shakes like heck between 60-80 mph., but is fine otherwise.

Take a block of wood and put it on a jack. Gently jack up under the oil pan while the car is running. DO NOT LIFT THE CAR. The point is to support the engine in the case that the mount is broken, as well as see if the engine moves in place when jacking. The vibration will lessen and the engine will lift (can see from the top) if one, or both, motor mounts are broken.
NOTE: Over lifting from the engine can damage mounts that may not have been broken before, or were partially broken.

[rawatamit]

For anyone who is working on a B8 S4, pull the swaybar down (2 bolts on each side), and remove the hydraulic lines (electrical connections if you have the electronic rack) to power steering rack. Take the two bolts out from the rack holding it to the subframe and let it hang on its end by the outer tie rods.
Jack up the engine a tiny bit and pull both the engine mounts out towards the back of the engine. I tried every combination listed on all the engine mount DIYs but couldn't get the driver side mount out. Dropped the steering rack and the mount fell out on its own.
Save your mental health and time.

[dalmation53]

Thanks for the write up. I just had an oil change and my tech advised me that at least one of my motor mounts is on its way out. I only get the slightest vibration at times when i engage D while at a standstill. We discussed the 034 Motorsports mounts that will never need replacing again, and more cost effective.
I just priced them out and it turns out the OEM mounts are actually a tad cheaper online than the 034 mounts which sell for $216.
I didn't see a lot of feedback on here regarding the aftermarket mounts. Is there any compelling reason to not stick with OEM? I'm at 100K miles and i'm not aware that mine have been changed before so perhaps i got lucky they lasted this long..

the 034 mounts will give you cabin vibrations like if your mounts were bad but will stiffen the motor under acceleration. i did them on mine and went lemofrder oem instead i didnt like the vibrations i like my car to feel like it turned off when at idle lol

[JWebb_C7_Comp]

the 034 mounts will give you cabin vibrations like if your mounts were bad but will stiffen the motor under acceleration. i did them on mine and went lemofrder oem instead i didnt like the vibrations i like my car to feel like it turned off when at idle lol

For a semi-skilled DIY job, how long do you think doing both mounts would take (4-5 hrs?)

[ZaubA6]

For a semi-skilled DIY job, how long do you think doing both mounts would take (4-5 hrs?)Sounds reasonable... Mine took about 8 hrs but that included a trip to the store when my triple square bit decided to break a tooth, and a 2hr round trip drive to the Audi dealer because the local VW dealer ordered the wrong bolts

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[vimo1604]

For anyone who is working on a B8 S4, pull the swaybar down (2 bolts on each side), and remove the hydraulic lines (electrical connections if you have the electronic rack) to power steering rack. Take the two bolts out from the rack holding it to the subframe and let it hang on its end by the outer tie rods.
Jack up the engine a tiny bit and pull both the engine mounts out towards the back of the engine. I tried every combination listed on all the engine mount DIYs but couldn't get the driver side mount out. Dropped the steering rack and the mount fell out on its own.
Save your mental health and time.

Do we think the same can be used for a C7 A7.

Im really not confident about removing the oil cooler and putting it back on with my big hands. Dropping the subframe also seems to tedious - main reason being to deal with rusted bolts (ontario plate). Im already dealing with a seized brake carrier bolt :(

[rawatamit]

Do we think the same can be used for a C7 A7.

Im really not confident about removing the oil cooler and putting it back on with my big hands. Dropping the subframe also seems to tedious - main reason being to deal with rusted bolts (ontario plate). Im already dealing with a seized brake carrier bolt :(You should be able to use the same trick on the C7 A7. Honestly, dropping the steering rack isn't a big deal and saves a lot of time.

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