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rockbeau25
03-21-2017, 08:27 AM
Reposting from VWVortex, need all the advice I can get...

Been having ongoing trouble trying to find the correct alternator for my car. I have 1999 Audi A4 1.8T (WAUGB28D3XAO80486). My car was originally equipped with a Valeo style 90A alternator.

http://elauber.com/images/2008/gallery_6453_3.jpg
(note the two studs/nuts) on the back)

My car is equipped with air suspension so I want to upgrade to a 120A to compensate for this. Here's where the trouble starts. The first alternator I purchased was a Bosch style, it had the correct studs on the back, but did not fit (stuck out a few cm too far). The second one I ordered from ECS (https://www.ecstuning.com/b-valeo-parts/alternator-120amp/058903018cx~val/). I contacted a sales rep, gave them my VIN, and was assured this alternator would fit my car. However, it recently arrived and it has the wrong connectors on the back.

https://c1552172.ssl.cf0.rackcdn.com/27653_x800.jpg
(note the plug on the back)

I cannot seem to find the correct fitting 120A Valeo alternator with the correct connectors on the back anywhere.

These are the best guesses I have, but I'm betting that they'll be the same as the first I bought (and stick out too far).

http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=1000454&cc=1352461&jsn=367

http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=37356&cc=1352461&jsn=352

http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=5776329&cc=1352461&jsn=379

I bought another 90A Valeo unit from Autozone to get by for the meantime, but it is already starting to fail after just a few months. From the moment I got it installed, it had a weird droning/dentist drill noise, and never charged as much as my OEM unit. Now I am starting to get battery lights, extremely low voltage gauge readings, and no starts.

If someone could confirm which, if any, of those RockAuto alternators will work, or know of one somewhere else that will work, please help me out. Is it possible that I could change my pulleys and tensioners to fit a Bosch unit? It's getting really frustrating and I want to get my car back to normal ASAP.

Rodgman15
03-21-2017, 09:38 AM
I got one from a same year 2.8 car. I can't remember if I switched the pulley, but otherwise it bolted right up.

rockbeau25
03-21-2017, 10:03 AM
I got one from a same year 2.8 car. I can't remember if I switched the pulley, but otherwise it bolted right up.

Are 2.8 the same as far as mounting goes then?

Rodgman15
03-21-2017, 10:07 AM
Are 2.8 the same as far as mounting goes then?

Mine was, my car is a 97, pretty sure the alternator came from an early 99. Bolted right up.

Have any in cars in a junkyard local to you? I'd go stick my nose under the hoods just to confirm.

rockbeau25
03-21-2017, 10:09 AM
nah my PnP is shit

Rodgman15
03-21-2017, 02:30 PM
Bummer. I got an alternator and a trans from a 99 2.8 car, went back and checked. Had to shave the big cooling vent it had on it, otherwise it bolted right up.

walky_talky20
03-21-2017, 03:44 PM
ECS alternator will work. Just change the connector.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Spectre1130
03-21-2017, 04:00 PM
Pretty sure you can use the alternator from any 1.8t. I'm using my 97 alternator (058 block) on my 06A block. Direct bolt up. The only issue will be connectors, which like walky said you will need to change them out. You could cut that wire (I think that's the stator winding power) and put a pig tail on it, then put the other opposite ended pig tail on your OEM connector and the connector you need to buy. That way you can switch them out easily.

rockbeau25
03-22-2017, 07:01 AM
ECS alternator will work. Just change the connector.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Is there a write up somewhere? Also PN for the connector?

seanf86
03-22-2017, 07:46 AM
Is there a write up somewhere? Also PN for the connector?

Its just a standard 2 pin VW connector you just need to know which pin gets the wire since its a 1 wire alt. I snipped one from the wrecker in anticipation of this swap. Pre facelift 2.8 A4/Passat 120 amp alt should work for you without doing anything.

The Bosch AL702X is what you need for direct fit 120 amp alt.

SlvrArrw
03-22-2017, 07:56 AM
Reposting from VWVortex, need all the advice I can get...

Been having ongoing trouble trying to find the correct alternator for my car. I have 1999 Audi A4 1.8T (WAUGB28D3XAO80486). My car was originally equipped with a Valeo style 90A alternator.

http://elauber.com/images/2008/gallery_6453_3.jpg
(note the two studs/nuts) on the back)

My car is equipped with air suspension so I want to upgrade to a 120A to compensate for this. Here's where the trouble starts. The first alternator I purchased was a Bosch style, it had the correct studs on the back, but did not fit (stuck out a few cm too far). The second one I ordered from ECS (https://www.ecstuning.com/b-valeo-parts/alternator-120amp/058903018cx~val/). I contacted a sales rep, gave them my VIN, and was assured this alternator would fit my car. However, it recently arrived and it has the wrong connectors on the back.

https://c1552172.ssl.cf0.rackcdn.com/27653_x800.jpg
(note the plug on the back)

I cannot seem to find the correct fitting 120A Valeo alternator with the correct connectors on the back anywhere.

These are the best guesses I have, but I'm betting that they'll be the same as the first I bought (and stick out too far).

http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=1000454&cc=1352461&jsn=367

http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=37356&cc=1352461&jsn=352

http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=5776329&cc=1352461&jsn=379

I bought another 90A Valeo unit from Autozone to get by for the meantime, but it is already starting to fail after just a few months. From the moment I got it installed, it had a weird droning/dentist drill noise, and never charged as much as my OEM unit. Now I am starting to get battery lights, extremely low voltage gauge readings, and no starts.

If someone could confirm which, if any, of those RockAuto alternators will work, or know of one somewhere else that will work, please help me out. Is it possible that I could change my pulleys and tensioners to fit a Bosch unit? It's getting really frustrating and I want to get my car back to normal ASAP.
Hey,
What you can do is what I did in the past.
Go to a local reputable shop ( there may not be alot existing these days) that can repair alternators/starters and ask then to upgrade your OEM to the output you want.


Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk

walky_talky20
03-22-2017, 11:38 AM
Is there a write up somewhere? Also PN for the connector?

Connector part number:

4D0 971 992

You can find the pigtails on ebay for about 10 bucks.

shoguncito
03-22-2017, 11:46 AM
http://www.ebay.com/itm/132019865217?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

i bought this one, plug and play, the pulley has to be machined because it is 2.2 mm too long on the bosch style

rockbeau25
03-22-2017, 12:10 PM
http://www.ebay.com/itm/132019865217?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

i bought this one, plug and play, the pulley has to be machined because it is 2.2 mm too long on the bosch style

I have a Valeo sitting at home, just need the connector

rockbeau25
03-22-2017, 12:18 PM
Connector part number:

4D0 971 992

You can find the pigtails on ebay for about 10 bucks.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Alternator-Plug-Pigtail-Wiring-VW-Passat-Audi-A4-A6-Genuine-4D0-971-992-A-/282173517411

I'm assuming this is the one I need. The PN search yields a bunch of connectors with various pigtails. Is the single wire one like this the one I need?

walky_talky20
03-22-2017, 12:46 PM
That one is expensive. You can get one with 2 wires, you will just use only 1 of the wires. Simply cut the other one off or tape it up.

$10 is already expensive for that little connector. I wouldn't spend any more than that.

rockbeau25
03-22-2017, 07:29 PM
That one is expensive. You can get one with 2 wires, you will just use only 1 of the wires. Simply cut the other one off or tape it up.

$10 is already expensive for that little connector. I wouldn't spend any more than that.

Ok cool, does it matter which wire I use?

walky_talky20
03-22-2017, 08:20 PM
Yes it does. There are 2 pins. Only one of them is the correct one to apply the field voltage to. I believe the other pin is for the "warning light" output which Audi does not use. Instead, the cluster intelligently monitors the voltage to determine if there is a problem in the charging system.

MrSnickelsnizer
07-13-2017, 06:24 PM
Since this thread finally aims to answer the old question of how to get a 120 amp alternator to fit the old 1.8t motors. The ones with two studs and no plugs. I found one that will fit, I believe.
Part # 058903018
On rockauto, a version of the alternator can be had for 118$.
That's what I am gonna try in a couple weeks.

A1 A2 German
07-14-2017, 12:03 AM
You can compare to my 120amp upgrade swap I did too, you'll see the ad on page 1 or 2 of the B5 classfieds with part numbers.

Hopefully they, or whoever, gave you the 120 amp alt pully too. Your 90amp pully will not work properly. I can also look at my wiring per the plug if needed.

MrSnickelsnizer
07-14-2017, 04:46 AM
You can compare to my 120amp upgrade swap I did too, you'll see the ad on page 1 or 2 of the B5 classfieds with part numbers.

Hopefully they, or whoever, gave you the 120 amp alt pully too. Your 90amp pully will not work properly. I can also look at my wiring per the plug if needed.

Well the part # game is always rough, and you have obviously done this the whole situation before. It comes with a pulley. The 120 amp alternator has a different mounting style pulley than the 90 amp alternator, if swapping pulleys was needed? Also, yeah. If you knew which plug wire to use, that would be nice.

A1 A2 German
07-14-2017, 03:30 PM
I'll clear somethings up.

The reason why it's confusing is as the years went on they were able to make smaller alternators (physical sizing), just like flatscreens are getting thinner. Pre-face alt are very large, and generally 90 amps. As smog pumps, more interior lighting, secondary water pumps came along 120 units were used. In addition, smaller sizing. A facelift 90amp is much smaller then pre-face 90amp, hell, a facelift 120amp is smaller then a pre-face 90 amp. If you set them all down, you'd say no way they'd all work as the body of the alternator sticks out much further then the next and couldn't see how they would all work....the corrective feature is the pully. It is the corrective feature which makes them ~universal.

The other reason why it works, there's no such thing as an Audi alternator, per say. These are A.C. Delco/Bosch industry standard bolt patterns. Want to know a trick? Say you have 90amps, and a large audio system...why upgrade for $200 for just a 120 amp? Because that's the largest available? Nope, just buy a random Ford/Chevy/xyz 250 amp (or whatever):


https://www.powerbastards.com/proddetail.asp?prod=7735-10-220-HD11-16

That's the wrong bottom bracket yet you can find them easily, single long bolt on bottom, one 13mm on top. It's a ~Bosch thing, not an Audi. I'll check wiring once home.

down_n_dapper
07-17-2017, 08:46 PM
I'll clear somethings up.

That's the wrong bottom bracket yet you can find them easily, single long bolt on bottom, one 13mm on top. It's a ~Bosch thing, not an Audi. I'll check wiring once home.

Very interested to see the result of this if you can find how to wire one in. My alternator is possibly on its way out

A1 A2 German
07-17-2017, 09:46 PM
Looked again for 30 mins, I'll have to look again through all my boxes, packed it away for safe keeping.