PDA

View Full Version : Nitrous can the AEB engine handle it...



b00st
12-14-2005, 08:04 PM
so what do you guys think. maybe a 30 shot of nitrous on top of the PC16 K04. Just a little something to keep it pulling at the end. Do you think the engine can handle a 30 shot? Dunno how much more I want to sink into this thing. considering its paid next month and its getting old...it doesn't like winter. summer....now it likes summer. so i was think a wet kit is maybe $500 or NTER Cooler Kit is $349. Just need that little edge....since we are so close till the higher speeds like 80+ then he starts reeling me in...so maybe if i hit it with a 30 shot or 50 shot...i'm pretty sure that would keep my edge and give me some decent highway running abilities. THOUGHTS?

AEB is supposed be forged pistons and crank. i would think it could handle a 30-50 shot what do you guys think? i mean i can't be making much more than 210-215awhp. whats an extra 30? its like a PES Kit at that point? thoughts?

quattro8239
12-14-2005, 08:12 PM
I'd also like to know but I'm worried about fueling the upgrades it would require?

BranCKY3
12-14-2005, 08:17 PM
Who starts reeling you in?

b00st
12-14-2005, 08:22 PM
with a wet kit...there is no need for fueling upgrades. if you ran a dry kit...maybe i'd be worried but i'm talking about wet kit so that kicks in additional gas when the nitrous hits.

ran great on my bro's jetta 2.0L with a 50 shot. but he still couldn't beat me and all I had was a chip, intake and DV.

then my worries are what kind of plugs to use...nitrous plugs at 1 step colder? 2 steps colder....since i'm running hard with the k04?
i would think 1 step colder plugs would be OK but nitrous plugs are expensive. what about some 7E's...would that be good enough.

i just need to pull harder through 4000rpms - 6000rpms. i would think a 30 or 50 wet kit should get the trick done. I would only be using it when I'm losing or its too close for comfort and I'm getting tired of these fucking EVO drivers around my neighborhood and STi's. Cocky SOBs the whole lot of them....I don't do that bad on a roll with them and maybe this wet kit can fix that.

TheBlueMartin
12-14-2005, 08:26 PM
The 1.8T block was factory stress tested at over 300hp for long term-wear tests, and designed to hold a lot more, so the block and crank should do just fine.
As far as the rest of the engine...it should be ok, but its all about what you can afford to replace if it isnt.

b00st
12-14-2005, 08:39 PM
Originally posted by BranCKY3
Who starts reeling you in?

i've mentioned it a few times before. Its my brother in laws ride. He had it done by that show Tuner Transformation. IS300 Turbo now. so he puts down 285rwhp/302rwtq on hub dyno in the summer and this past NOV he did 300/300 on a roller dyno. now from a line...i can take him and then he starts coming back at 80 or 90 mphs...and depending from a roll....we are dead even...just depends on what speed/gear/rpms. sometimes i'm in my prime...sometimes he's in his. but if we do a highway runs...i lose...most of the time. last time i did a run from 70-75ish-100 we were dead even...i thought if I shift at 5200rpms in 4th that I would drop down the rpms and be in a better power band....well that wasn't the case and he walked away. but for the most part he owns the highway and I own the street light.

but its also the EVOS and STIs...its like they invaded my neighborhood. its getting harder to find a stock one of either of those anymore and i don't want to keep up with them...its the stock ones like the one i ran into the other night at a light and he admitted he was stock but he tells me..."you'd don't think you can beat me in that thing do you?" thats the first thing he says. if I only had an APR SIII+....i would have been cocky as shit. but I said yeah I can take you anyway.

the point of the nitrous is that I don't think I will go any further with turbo kits for my B5. the body is getting put on and suspension. testpipe and I was thinking last mod could be nitrous to keep me in the game for the higher RPMS. my B5 is getting crabby...at least in the winter. runs fine though but gets crabby. I figure I'd buy a B6 and keep my B5. Or perhaps part with the B5....that will be tough. my thought was that if I run a low shot like 30-50...i could get it from keeping the car from falling on its face in the higher RPMS as k04s are known for. thoughts?

b00st
12-14-2005, 08:44 PM
Originally posted by TheBlueMartin
The 1.8T block was factory stress tested at over 300hp for long term-wear tests, and designed to hold a lot more, so the block and crank should do just fine.
As far as the rest of the engine...it should be ok, but its all about what you can afford to replace if it isnt.

fixing broken things won't be an issue....its the wife yelling at me cuz i pushed it too far that'll be the issue [;)]
not really worried about the cash situation...wife's not for the nitrous kit...even though...me and her dad put one on his 73 nova and we did my bro's jetta.

so I was thinking 30 shot...but 50 i think would definitely keep me where I want to be and only need to use it when running close matches. if it could take 50....i'd like to run 50. maybe BITTER or MIKE, do you guys have any opinions to this or know anybody running them in their 1.8Ts or have any opinions on it?

TomRitt18944
12-14-2005, 09:28 PM
aeb is not a forged crank, I have two aeb cranks in my possession and neither are forged, i dont think the pistons are but I can't really tell. I dont see any casting marks, but it does look rough like cast.

If its set up properly im sure it could use a little nitrous, U can just hook it up and go though, u need tuning

bitterchild
12-14-2005, 10:44 PM
I'd run a 75 shot direct port. Otherwise your wet is going to have to be after the IC and before the TB. If you were set on a small shot, a dry 35 right behind the smic would be ideal to help your IATs as well introduce oxygen.

alen
12-14-2005, 11:11 PM
Crankshaft: Forged Steel, 4 main bearings

Got it from AW model guide for all B5.

TomRitt18944
12-15-2005, 04:44 AM
its wrong, i have 2 in my hand

94jedi
12-15-2005, 05:36 AM
I understand the desire for a newer car but you're going to lose money on the B5 if you sell it. Personally, I would save the money you'd put down for a B6 and do a larger turbo. With the b6 you're going to have payments in the neighborhood of $400, plus more $ in insurance. b00st, you sound alot like me. Mid-late 20's, married. If your wife is anything like mine, she won't be happy when you want to mod the b6. I'd say keep the b5 and take it farther. no car really likes the cold weather. just stay on top of maintenance and you should be good. Oh and sell the body kit and put it towards a BT. a body kit IMHO, just invites neeedless attention. The B5 is still a classic looking car and it doesn't look to old becuase they made them up to 2001.

oh btw, post pics of your car, I've never seen it before.

jrodmk2
12-15-2005, 05:38 AM
tom my early aeb was def. forged. yours are newer model years right? maybe tere was a split. like i said my late 97 was forged.

TomRitt18944
12-15-2005, 06:49 AM
Thats weird. I think my 2nd motor is a 98.5, im picking up another this weekend so I guess when I open it up I'll see, I'm not sure what yr it is though

b00st
12-15-2005, 09:14 AM
Originally posted by jrodmk2
tom my early aeb was def. forged. yours are newer model years right? maybe tere was a split. like i said my late 97 was forged.

yes 97 was forged and I talked to a tech and he told me that my pistons and crank are forged and the rods are decent but would be the weak link out of the system. he said I would only need to do rods if I really wanted to push some real HP. there was also a tech sheet I saw that had which models had what. it think it was on AW that the link was posted.

b00st
12-15-2005, 09:28 AM
Originally posted by 94jedi
I understand the desire for a newer car but you're going to lose money on the B5 if you sell it. Personally, I would save the money you'd put down for a B6 and do a larger turbo. With the b6 you're going to have payments in the neighborhood of $400, plus more $ in insurance. b00st, you sound alot like me. Mid-late 20's, married. If your wife is anything like mine, she won't be happy when you want to mod the b6. I'd say keep the b5 and take it farther. no car really likes the cold weather. just stay on top of maintenance and you should be good. Oh and sell the body kit and put it towards a BT. a body kit IMHO, just invites neeedless attention. The B5 is still a classic looking car and it doesn't look to old becuase they made them up to 2001.

oh btw, post pics of your car, I've never seen it before.

you've got me pegged late 20's & married. except that I'm an independent business owner and my disposeable income is prolly alot different than most. i work for an insurance company at their home office and then i transferred to become an insurance agent. lets say that netting a million dollars in 3 years isn't an issue. by standard home office numbers...an average insurance agent made 100K in his first 3 yrs of opening his business...so now if i buy a guy who is retired and did really well....i'll let you do the math. but I also have to pay back the business loan, pay rent for office, staff salary, not to mention my own bills. but still gives plenty of money to do things. plus after my dad retires...i get his business too...gotta pay for it....but the cost would be offset and I wouldn't feel a thing. at the same time....so some would say by an RS4 or S4 or something...and I believe good things come to those who wait...if I invest in my business first and start it off right and put my family first (cars, home theaters, etc. come after the fact). I can play later...so thats my situation, hope that doesn't come off as arrogant or anything, thats just kind of the situation. and my brother will be entering the business to do the same thing.

As for the body kit...i want the attention. The only BT solutions I see are APR SIII+ or PES T28 and if you really want to throw down I would think the APR SIII+ would be the way. but with no car payment...I don't really want to do too much to a dated vehicle. Plus I just bought a new house but I will be buying a new one again in 2yrs otherwise I have to pay capitol gains on the house i just bought as I have only lived in it for 6 months. You need to live in a home for at least 2 years unless your work changes and you commute 50 or more miles one way. So wife wants new house...i give her a little she gives me a little. She wants a Navigator or Escalade or Sequoia....one of those but then I get to play. Cars are a money pit and I'm more concerned about my business then anything.

BITTER can we talk about the nitrous via PM. wife is easing up on it.

94jedi
12-15-2005, 09:40 AM
Originally posted by b00st
you've got me pegged...for the most part. except that I'm an independent business owner and my disposeable income is prolly alot different than most. i work for an insurance company at their home office and then i transferred to become an insurance agent. lets say that netting a million dollars in 3 years isn't an issue. by standard home office numbers...an average insurance agent made 100K in his first 3 yrs of opening his business...so now if i buy a guy who is retired and did really well....i'll let you do the math. but I also have to pay back the business loan, pay rent for office, staff salary, not to mention my own bills. but still gives plenty of money to do things. plus after my dad retires...i get his business too...gotta pay for it....but the cost would be offset and I wouldn't feel a thing. at the same time....so would say by an RS4 or S4 or something...and I believe good things come to those who wait...if I invest in my business first and start it off right. I can play later...so thats my situation. As for the body kit...i want the attention. The only BT solutions I see are APR SIII+ or PES T28 and if you really want to throw down I would think the APR SIII+ would be the way. but with no car payment...I don't really want to do too much to a dated vehicle. Plus I just bought a new house but I will be buying a new one again in 2yrs otherwise I have to pay capitol gains on the house i just bought as I have only lived in it for 6 months. So wife wants new house...i give her a little she gives me a little.

BITTER can we talk about the nitrous via PM. wife is easing up on it.

Well, I guess I had you pegged wrong...hire me so I can have alot of discressionary income too!!! LOL, my wife just opened a bridal store....I wonder if I can write off a GT35R as a business expense. Anyway, sure the car is dated but if you're keeping it for a long time, as it sounds like you are, then just go BT with it. Do the APR Stg 3+. I'd love to see what kind of #'s it will really produce. if you're not happy, you could always tweak the programing and strap on the next in line of the GT series turbo's. Then buy your RS4 when you have the cash and keep your B5 as your race/fun car. Oh and sorry for giving you crap about the body kit. The attention is cool, it's just that I don't have the $$ to do that AND make the car fast! [:D]

b00st
12-15-2005, 09:53 AM
Originally posted by 94jedi
Well, I guess I had you pegged wrong...hire me so I can have alot of discressionary income too!!! LOL, my wife just opened a bridal store....I wonder if I can write off a GT35R as a business expense. Anyway, sure the car is dated but if you're keeping it for a long time, as it sounds like you are, then just go BT with it. Do the APR Stg 3+. I'd love to see what kind of #'s it will really produce. if you're not happy, you could always tweak the programing and strap on the next in line of the GT series turbo's. Then buy your RS4 when you have the cash and keep your B5 as your race/fun car. Oh and sorry for giving you crap about the body kit. The attention is cool, it's just that I don't have the $$ to do that AND make the car fast! [:D]

sure i'll hire you...i need someone who is licensed in property & casualty, life & health and finally series 6 & 63. if you got those...you got a deal. [:D]

Yeah my problem is now I'm going to get attention from the body kit and actually get some of these EVOs and STIs to take a shot against me. If I drop 5k on a turbo kit before my wife gets her next house....i think i will get drop kicked. hence a little 500 dollar investment...would be OK with her. 5K will not go over well on my "old" car by her standards and then she tells the family what i did....i think you know the routine. I can't the whole I can't believe you did that speeches...and all i can say is "WHAT?". I have a problem and need counselling...mod bug bit me and i've never been the same.

b00st
12-15-2005, 10:01 AM
Originally posted by bitterchild
I'd run a 75 shot direct port. Otherwise your wet is going to have to be after the IC and before the TB. If you were set on a small shot, a dry 35 right behind the smic would be ideal to help your IATs as well introduce oxygen.

Bitter,

I really didn't want to get involved with a direct port...I know that would be optimal. Lemme ask you...do you think the motor can handle a direct port 75 shot?

I'm not set on a small shot I just didn't want to push things to hard. I sold my daily driver and now my A4 is my main ride. Since I'm running a FMIC...if I ran the dry or wet shot...I would basically have to drill/tap into that rubber intake hose 6 inches before the TB correct. Do you think the motor can handle a dry 50 shot or dry 75 shot? I was just thinking 50 to keep things safe....if I could run a 75 that would be great...but I don't want broke rods. And like I said, I would only be using it against cars that I think would give close competition or turn it on if it was a close match.

94jedi
12-15-2005, 10:50 AM
Originally posted by b00st
mod bug bit me and i've never been the same.

Well, let me know if you need an IT guy...[:D]
Yeah I know exactly what you're talking about with her fam. I get the same crap from the father in law. They just don't get it. I thought we'd outgrow this "bug" by now. LOL, I think we just keep getting sucked in deeper and deeper.

jrodmk2
12-15-2005, 12:03 PM
tom whay are you getting another motor. i will have one for sale in amonth or two(aeb). so if anybody would like one keep me in mind. will prob. be almost everything minus computer and harness. we will see

bitterchild
12-15-2005, 12:47 PM
I want it Jarrod. Hit me up.

boost- n2o can do what you want but you'd probably not want to fvck w/ such a small shot. Problem with nitrous is it HAS to be tuned well. It's not like everyone and their mickey mouse software/hardware setups. I can't really recommend anything unless I get to set it up and jet it. As far as I know there's no plug and play retail setup that will work well w/ the a4.

jrodmk2
12-15-2005, 12:56 PM
bitter- when it gets taken out, i will let you know.[up]
by the way.. will somebody please buy my car!!!!!! offers please. i just can't give it away that is all.

bitterchild
12-15-2005, 01:01 PM
wait, what's going on w/ your car?

jrodmk2
12-15-2005, 01:03 PM
selling the sedan-getting an avant. funny thing.. its the same color and all... except door panels.

b00st
12-15-2005, 01:11 PM
Originally posted by bitterchild
I want it Jarrod. Hit me up.

boost- n2o can do what you want but you'd probably not want to fvck w/ such a small shot. Problem with nitrous is it HAS to be tuned well. It's not like everyone and their mickey mouse software/hardware setups. I can't really recommend anything unless I get to set it up and jet it. As far as I know there's no plug and play retail setup that will work well w/ the a4.

hmmm....I can check with ZEX...they run that brainbox setup...so if your car isn't running the proper gas to match it tones down the nitrous. and if it doesn't meet the requirement for A/F it doesn't dispers it at all.

http://www.zex.com/Catalog/ZEX101-05/800-1011_PG3.jpg

just a thought.

do you think the engine can handle the shot the lets says a 50 shot dry or wet?

bitterchild
12-15-2005, 02:13 PM
350bhp is a conservative estimate for aeb rods.

b00st
12-15-2005, 02:39 PM
then i think i will try to run a nitrous setup.

haven't decided if i should try 75 shot or 50 shot.
maybe i should start with a 50 shot.

bitterchild
12-15-2005, 02:59 PM
start small and always add fuel first. curious, how woudl a zex brain know what the a/f is? Does it include an onboard wideband lambda sensor?

biturbo hero
12-15-2005, 03:03 PM
only one way to find out ..............

b00st
12-15-2005, 03:13 PM
Originally posted by bitterchild
start small and always add fuel first. curious, how woudl a zex brain know what the a/f is? Does it include an onboard wideband lambda sensor?

i dunno...did you check that link that i posted. its always supposed to keep everything optimal and has its safety features so if I'm running lean at the high side of the rpms...it will stop the nitrous. since its a wet kit...it will throw gas as needed to match the nitrous and if anything i can bump the adjustable FPR up if needed.

b00st
12-15-2005, 03:14 PM
Originally posted by biturbo hero
only one way to find out ..............

yup and thats to do it up!
I'll start small maybe even 35 shot or 40 shot...however they do their jets and bump it up...i don't think i should exceed 75 though.

bitterchild
12-15-2005, 03:51 PM
I am familiar w/ zex kits and their brainbox functions. My question remains the same, how does the box know what the a/f is to adjust it? I have a box that can do the same thing if you want to buy it. It says Nike on it but I can scratch that out if you want.

I hope you get my point. Only input I can think of is narrowband o2 signal which is garbage.

b00st
12-15-2005, 04:56 PM
my answer remains the same...dunno.
your guess is as good as mine...................
oh and if its got NIKE on it...its a done deal.
prolly narrowband. but i'm still guessing.

if your so familiar how come u don't know [;)] i thought you know everything [;)]

bitterchild
12-15-2005, 09:26 PM
Originally posted by b00st

if your so familiar how come u don't know [;)] i thought you know everything [;)]

You're right, my bad. I've been withholding information. Go with a 125 dry shot and don't worry about the fuel. Run colder plugs and you'll be just fine. Just remember to put some NOS octane booster before you go racing and you'll run 10s. This has to be good information because we all know if somebody posts it on the internet it's got to be true. In fact feel free to incorrectly quote me so that the truth becomes even more distorted.

b00st
12-15-2005, 09:31 PM
Originally posted by bitterchild
You're right, my bad. I've been withholding information. Go with a 125 dry shot and don't worry about the fuel. Run colder plugs and you'll be just fine. Just remember to put some NOS octane booster before you go racing and you'll run 10s. This has to be good information because we all know if somebody posts it on the internet it's got to be true. In fact feel free to incorrectly quote me so that the truth becomes even more distorted.

bitter i thought you can take a joke....guess not. i was teasing in that post but i guess you didn't pick up on that. should i have put J/K on the end for you?

you said your were familiar with ZEX brainbox's...i was asking you for information...i know your bitter but i was teasing you on that one. sorry if you took that wrong since that was the only part you pulled from my post.

bitterchild
12-15-2005, 11:03 PM
i was kidding too. whoops :p. I only deal w/ nos/edelbrock stuff. Find out about the zex, I'd like to know too.

b00st
12-16-2005, 07:51 AM
aight cool...jes checking to make sure we are on the same page there. i'll call up zex and see whats the dilly yo!

i'll only used NX and Edlebrock myself...so I'm not familiar with ZEX, did see it on a new 05 mustang GT at a show. jes not sure how it works. I'll post back with an update.

Jeff
12-16-2005, 10:21 AM
Originally posted by jrodmk2
tom my early aeb was def. forged. yours are newer model years right? maybe tere was a split. like i said my late 97 was forged.

...not to mention that the AEB (next to the AMU) also uses a 20mm wristpin vs the 19mm wristpin the rest of the 1.8T's use.

bitterchild
12-16-2005, 02:19 PM
19mm suckas

TomRitt18944
12-16-2005, 06:41 PM
20mm, there is a post on vwvortex right with with all the gurus and they are saying the aeb crank was nvr forged...

bitterchild
12-16-2005, 06:49 PM
so you're going to make me go look for it? can't you link my lazy ass?

TomRitt18944
12-16-2005, 07:13 PM
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=1480850

bitterchild
12-16-2005, 08:49 PM
danke

AB18
12-16-2005, 08:54 PM
Im going to go pull mine right now and settle this:)

TomRitt18944
12-16-2005, 09:02 PM
I've pulled two and will be pulling another in a couple days...dont waste ur time lol

bitterchild
12-16-2005, 09:10 PM
don't pull it for no reason, that's a waste of time. Snap at least one rod first.

TheObiJuan
12-16-2005, 10:39 PM
two of my friends with 1.8t's ran a 75wet shot. It pulled very nice up top.
It was set with a 4k rev limiter and wot switch.
If you run the kit properly, use high quality parts and purge, there is not problem. One guy ran the spray form almost a year, perhaps over 100 races atleast, but sold the kit because filling the bottle got expensive. A turbo swap would be more reliable and cheaper in the long run. The other guy had similar results...

I would not rule out spraying my B5.

b00st
12-16-2005, 11:07 PM
my only concern was with my k04 pc16 setup and then pushing it with another 30-75 shot of nitrous.

i understand about the turbo swap...thats for the B6...this car is going to be stuck with this setup. so my only thought was to try and run a 30-50 shot to start and see how the car reacted. prolly drop down a step colder in plugs at this point...i really don't think you need to with just a 30 or 50 shot but with boost on there as well. a step down will prolly be a good idea. i am just looking for that HP at the higher RPM...just looking for it to pull at the end of rpm band. i think this is an easy answer and best bang for the buck. next ride i will try a BT setup and hopefully my B5 is still around.

bitterchild
12-16-2005, 11:15 PM
I would say start w/ a wet 50 shot and run the bkr7e's you have in there. 8s may be hard to idle and warm up, especially in winter. You're lowering your IATs when you juice but not as much as a dry setup. Try to keep it as close to the smic as possible, you want some distance from the TB. It's tricky b/c you want distance from the TB but you also don't want to be in that bend right at the IC core. I would definetely recommend direct port in this situation. There is so much room under the intake manifold.

b00st
12-17-2005, 11:44 AM
hmmm....i'ma start looking into it. and direct port as well and see what I come up with.

yeah the TB distance is crucial and I know that Throttle Body Intake Pipe takes an S turn right there before it connects to the FMIC pipe. Perhaps hitting it from the bottom side will allow for better positioning of the shark nozzle.

As for winter....I don't think I would run the nitrous setup. I would disconnect the feed line and store the bottle. Run the 6Es or just leave the 7Es in. i'ma start doing the research.

Nitrous NXL Kit if that could work would be easier I think than installing the direct port. Lowest shot though is 80...and that might be a bit much. just might have to go direct and have a local tuner do the install.

NITROUS NXL
http://www.nitrousexpress.com/Catalog/2005/nxl.pdf

badassbaldie
12-17-2005, 03:06 PM
Hey boost, your mailbox is full...

b00st
12-17-2005, 03:34 PM
mailbox cleared out.

b00st
12-17-2005, 03:49 PM
Originally posted by b00st
hmmm....i'ma start looking into it. and direct port as well and see what I come up with.

yeah the TB distance is crucial and I know that Throttle Body Intake Pipe takes an S turn right there before it connects to the FMIC pipe. Perhaps hitting it from the bottom side will allow for better positioning of the shark nozzle.

As for winter....I don't think I would run the nitrous setup. I would disconnect the feed line and store the bottle. Run the 6Es or just leave the 7Es in. i'ma start doing the research.

Nitrous NXL Kit if that could work would be easier I think than installing the direct port. Lowest shot though is 80...and that might be a bit much. just might have to go direct and have a local tuner do the install.

NITROUS NXL
http://www.nitrousexpress.com/Catalog/2005/nxl.pdf

if i would have continued reading the universal kit does not come with a fuel.

the kit was only designed for Hondas and LS1 & LS6 motors. so that rules that out. back to the drawing board. its prolly gonna get costly to do the setup on the direct port...drilling and fabing the lines. we'll see whats up.

still not going to convert to BT on this car....unless i get a nice bonus...then i think my only consideration would be the APR SIII+ but we shall see how things go here. right now its still nitrous...now i have to call the local tuner to find out how much to install a direct port system. otherwise a wet kit is going to be what goes in and I will start with a small shot and work my way higher....prolly at the dyno though to watch A/F ratios. that way i can dyno my k04 on PC16 software. then on a 50 shot and then i will try a 75 shot if possible.

b00st
12-17-2005, 03:50 PM
prolly will need a clutch if i go with nitrous.

one8t
12-17-2005, 04:17 PM
I have a hard pipe installed from my FMIC to the TB that has a small threaded port about 6" from the TB. Piping was part of a one-off system done by Kinetic that got parted out. I always thought the port was for nitrous. How much hardware is needed to add a dry shot?

b00st
12-17-2005, 04:33 PM
not much...
nozzle for the nitrous, nitrous solenoid, high pressure lines, bottle, micro switch, arming switch, etc...normal. really the same thing as wet minus the T-Fitting to tap into the fuel and Fuel Solenoid and the nozzle is different as it has a gas and nitrous side added to it.

b00st
12-17-2005, 04:36 PM
Originally posted by bitterchild
I would say start w/ a wet 50 shot and run the bkr7e's you have in there. 8s may be hard to idle and warm up, especially in winter. You're lowering your IATs when you juice but not as much as a dry setup. Try to keep it as close to the smic as possible, you want some distance from the TB. It's tricky b/c you want distance from the TB but you also don't want to be in that bend right at the IC core. I would definetely recommend direct port in this situation. There is so much room under the intake manifold.

Bitter,

what do we think about the aggressive timing with PC16 and nitrous. normally you're supposed to retard the timing. and the PC16 is an aggressive file with timing advanced. How do you think that will play out with the nitrous. I've seen up to a 75 shot work fine without timing retardation. i dunno what do you think?

94jedi
12-17-2005, 05:59 PM
Originally posted by b00st
Bitter,

what do we think about the aggressive timing with PC16 and nitrous. normally you're supposed to retard the timing. and the PC16 is an aggressive file with timing advanced. How do you think that will play out with the nitrous. I've seen up to a 75 shot work fine without timing retardation. i dunno what do you think?

Well, Tony will chime in I'm sure but here's my take- the pc-16 as you said is very aggressive. It runs alot of base timing. I guess if you ran a dry shot it would keep IAT's super low and therefor wouldn't retard timing based on high IATs as it usually does. The best thing is the direct port of course. Problem w/ the dry shot is you're not adding fuel and the balance of the 310's and and fpr at ~2.8 bar is already so delicate. Too much nitrous and not enough fuel equals you in the market for a used AEB. The thing to do would be to burn a map that you could switch to on your ecu that holds the nitrous program w/ it's own specific settings. Dyno time is a must though to get it working safely. W/ a wet kit at least your adding fuel as well. Let us know how it goes. It might be a sweet set up.

b00st
12-17-2005, 06:09 PM
Originally posted by 94jedi
Well, Tony will chime in I'm sure but here's my take- the pc-16 as you said is very aggressive. It runs alot of base timing. I guess if you ran a dry shot it would keep IAT's super low and therefor wouldn't retard timing based on high IATs as it usually does. The best thing is the direct port of course. Problem w/ the dry shot is you're not adding fuel and the balance of the 310's and and fpr at ~2.8 bar is already so delicate. Too much nitrous and not enough fuel equals you in the market for a used AEB. The thing to do would be to burn a map that you could switch to on your ecu that holds the nitrous program w/ it's own specific settings. Dyno time is a must though to get it working safely. W/ a wet kit at least your adding fuel as well. Let us know how it goes. It might be a sweet set up.

kinda my thoughts too. I was afraid that if I ran the dry...i wouldn't really need to worry about the timing...but I'd be worried about the gas. as you stated...its already delicate and i'm walking a fine line.

If I ran the wet kit...I wouldn't be worried about the gas issue...I'd be worried about the aggressive timing and running nitrous.

Lets see what Tony says about it.

b00st
12-18-2005, 10:24 AM
bump

bitterchild
12-18-2005, 08:57 PM
don't run dry on FI... it's a cardinal rule

With a wet kit you're not getting as much of the cooling effect so I would recommend direct port just so you know each cylinder is getting the same amount. You should know #2 already runs lean w/ the stock IM. You have no idea how the fuel/n2o is going to distribute in the manifold and unless you have a wideband or egt probe on each exhaust runner you won't know until you hit the magic number where you crack a ringland or something.

Hence why you have to ahve a knowledgeable person setup your nitrous system. That said, I have an old setup sitting around if you want to buy the tank and/or anything off of it.

b00st
12-18-2005, 09:19 PM
agreed on the knowledgeable person doing the install and getting it to run just right. the direct port is beyond me. I am working on getting an PLX Device M-300 for monitoring wideband.

so whatcha got laying around...you can shoot me a PM of your stuff you got and we'll see what we can arrange.

bitterchild
12-19-2005, 12:49 AM
I've got a plx m300 and a full nos DP kit. Tank, solenoids, distribution block, bottle brackets, heater, Honda b18b jetted manifold w/ what appear to be 75s.

b00st
12-19-2005, 01:28 PM
oooo..ooooo....you gots a plx m300 as well. well aren't you just a regular performance retail shop.

I'll prolly take both off your hands then....do you have any of the other jets...i'm think 75 maybe strong for it. as for the piping for the DP....won't I need to bend it for an audi setup or rather just give the shop the pipes straight and let them design how it should look and go in. And when I mean prolly...I mean I will....i just need to wait to after XMAS and see what kind of goodies I got so I know whatelse I can buy. Either way I'll take'em both...just need to see where I'm at....cuz i gotta get a few other things as well. But I'll take all that stuff too. Lemme know what the prices is for all that.

bitterchild
12-19-2005, 01:30 PM
Best bet is to give them your car and have them do the tubing in car. That way they know what they have to work around. Takes me a solid day for a good job.

b00st
12-19-2005, 02:36 PM
Originally posted by bitterchild
I've got a plx m300 and a full nos DP kit. Tank, solenoids, distribution block, bottle brackets, heater, Honda b18b jetted manifold w/ what appear to be 75s.

so whats your price?
do i get the casa white discount [:D]

bitterchild
12-19-2005, 03:58 PM
I dunno, I'm using the m300 as a mobile tuner. The DP is just sitting.

b00st
12-19-2005, 06:10 PM
k well i can get me a m300 or get it through you...thats fine...i get a raise very very very soon and then bonus shortly after so...i'll have some cash on tap. who's nitrous kit is it? NX, NOS, EDLEBROCK?