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MrSnickelsnizer
03-07-2017, 02:17 PM
So i bought a nautic 540.6 amp. It is driving 6 speakers in my a4 b5 that originally only came with four speakers (non bose). I remedied that through use of AudioControl LC7i Black 6-Channel box.
My front speakers are 5.25" Massive Audio CK 5III 4 ohm.
My rear door speakers are stock s4 bose speakers 6.5"(subject to change) 8ohm?
My rear deck speakers are PYLE-PRO PDMW6 - 6.5'' 8ohm (also very likely to be swapped very shortly).
My question is this, the amp puts out at 4ohms stereo 60x6 watts to speakers. At 2ohms stereo 90x6 watts to speakers.
So do the speakers determine the wattage they recieve from the amp or does the wiring determine that.
If so, should i invest in 2 ohm rear, and mid speakers for more mid bass.

PringlesInVic
03-07-2017, 03:02 PM
No offence, but you're kind of all over the road here. Mixing OEM, Marine, and P.A. equipment. The Pyles are designed for home use.

Yes, speaker's voice coils are designed to a specific impedance, the speaker will still work when powered by other impedances, but it will generate much more heat and will eventually cook the voice coil.

Also, even though the amp can push more wattage at lower impedance it doesn't translate into more volume.

I always suggest finding the speakers you want first, then finding an amp that matches up well and will power them properly.

You could try wiring the parcel shelf speakers in parallel and Bridge the channel, if I'm correct you would have 180W @ 4ohms.

A1 A2 German
03-07-2017, 07:00 PM
Yeah, all over the place.

If you plan to keep the car, do something that is fantastic with no monkeying around.

- JL Audio 300/4 (4 channel)
- JL Audio XR550 (Front Door Cards)
- JL Audio XR650 (Rear Shelf)

I've bought those JL Audio Amps for as low as $75 and could be had all day long for less the $150 on Craigslist. And again, those XR (or similar series) are spendy brand new, however I've found cleanly installed 1st owner used for low as $60, and open box for like $120 and everything in-between. That set up will exceed every production car's audio system in the industry. And when you want, add a JL Audio 500/1 or 1000/1 for subs if you ever choose down the road.

And a tip, run a large enough gauge wire now, plus an extra pair of rca's when you install the 300/4. That way you're absoluty golden when you (if you) want to add a mono amp as you already installed the extra set of rca's when you ran the ones for the 300/4 and don't have to rip up the carpet and parts again to also add a larger gauge wire. Every system I do, I always go 4G or 0G and add an extra RCA set, so at a moments notice....I can add a mono amp or second stereo amp.

MrSnickelsnizer
03-11-2017, 06:17 AM
Been a little bit busy so late response,

It has been my 1st car since 18 and i am still driving this thing. 24 now fyi. Bought another a4 2000 1.8t but that is another story. Drove that car maybe 20 miles? Still have it though lol. Love my car on a level my friends don't get. Anyways.

Not sure if those speakers are dicontinued? The xr550's. Maybe you meant XR525-CXi? The massive audio speakers i got are probably the best 5.25" speakers i have ever heard. They give the best a run for their money.

Also still running the stock radio head unit. No aftermarket stereo for me. Would not be the car I have grown to know. Especially after modifying my single din to a double din set up from an S4. This is why i run that audio control box. Allows me to keep stock head unit and works very well at that.

To run a sub i would need to run another power wire but the amp i have has one set of rca outs, to go to presumably a mono amp to drive a subwoofer.

12 gauge to every speaker, -minus tweeter wires.
I bought the pyles off of amazon. Because they were really cheap and i just wanted any set of speakers in there. Looking back it was a terrible purchase and i clicked one of the 1st sets i saw. They are garbage. Truly shitty speakers. They do exist.

The amp i got fit my requirement for six channels out. Wasn't looking for anything else. Looks super clean installed under rear deck. Also it performs better than expected. Clean noise, and drives everything pretty well. Don't believe i have even touched most of the equalizer knobs on the amp.

The rear speakers i threw in from a scrapped car because they were free and i was converting the rear door by cutting holes and putting the oem grills in. Saved time and money. Still waiting to purchase new speakers because i wasn't sure about impedance's and such. But if you are correct, since my amp is 4ohm output, keep too 4 ohm speakers. Even if i bridge the rear deck speakers. I was told bridging lowers impedance's. I don't know though.

Do you mean bridge the two outputs from the amp into one speaker?

I am planning on installing in some solid fashion or another, two 6W3V3-4 - JL Audio speakers. These may get a separate amp. Depends how they perform with the output from the amp i have now. A dedicated subwoofer will be added over summer. Have to figure out fiber glassing one into the cd changer slot.

Also i think some JL audio love is happening in this thread lol. I may try out one their amps if you stand so firmly by them.
And since all threads are better with pictures. Forgive the shitty cross over wiring and placement. Work in progress.

35600356013560235603

PringlesInVic
03-12-2017, 12:51 PM
I think we all understand the love for our cars. Haven't had mine very long and I really love it.

I also totally understand getting what you need, when you need it. So upgrading as you go along totally makes sense. For my build, I had 1 speaker that worked and a deck that only got the radio. So I knew I would be replacing the whole system. And I've done this enough to know to plan ahead on what I was getting. I made a plan and then picked up pieces as they went on sale. I have all the pieces now, just need to get them in the car.

I would stick with the 4ohm Fronts and Rears (Doors) you have now. And look for either a small sub, or better 6.5's for the parcel shelf.

As for bridging. You can power a small sub from your 5&6th channels. 180W @ 4ohms tuned properly would give you some nice low end. The amp can be adjusted with the Low Pass Fliter so it'll remove all the higher frequencies.

What I was suggesting you try is bridging your current speakers in parallel. So you'll have 1+ & 1- coming from the amp, then you'll run a jumper between the + @ - on your speakers so that one speaker is running off the other like this.

http://www.the12volt.com/12voltimages/2_8ohm_svc_4ohm.gif

You may notice a difference in bass with that setup.

However, if it were me. I'd find a sub and run of the 5&6 Channels.

MrSnickelsnizer
03-13-2017, 08:03 AM
Yeah I was thinking the speakers I wanted in the rear deck were a bit over kill. So maybe I'll go more conservative and do a pair of nice ct sound speakers. Couple options from them that look enticing. Good call on the rear speaker wiring. I will try that out and see if any difference is noticeable. It probably will be a waste of time on these speakers. The low pass on the amp doesn't work to well on the rear speakers as it stands. I honestly can't tune it correctly when in low pass mode to not make the rear speakers rattle. The speakers are just no good at anything. So I'll jump on some new speakers soon. Of course they will most likely be a component set up.
I also am fond of the whole six speaker thing. It seems to fill the cabin very well with noise compared to just four speakers. Who would have thought the rear door speakers would make a big difference. Feels more alive behind you. I also retrofitted tweeters into the rear window pillars. I don't have rear air bags so they fit just fine. That helped tremendously. Thinking of adding two more tweeters either above the rear door speakers. Will tape them up before doing any cutting though.

PringlesInVic
03-13-2017, 09:39 AM
I also like the 6 Speaker arrangement. But, I am running 3 amps to achieve this. To tell the truth, I am still just running the parcel shelf speakers, and a sub. I have the rest of the system, but haven't found time to rip the interior apart.

Currently I have a pair of Hertz Hi-Energy 6.5 Coax speakers (HCX165) powered by a Hertz HCP-2X amp. This goes back to what I was saying about matching speakers with and amp. So I would suggest you shop for a pair a coax speakers around the 60-70W RMS range to match up with your amp. And beware of clearances, my HCX165's have a tall tweeter with press up against the underside of the grilles.

MrSnickelsnizer
03-14-2017, 07:12 AM
I see your point. Definitely sticking with 4 ohm at this point. I don't think I will run speakers with the tweeters mounted in them. Because I would be worried about clearance issues like you said. How do you like Hertz. Decent brand?

PringlesInVic
03-14-2017, 09:19 AM
I've been happy with the Hertz speakers, less happy with the amps. But I made a commitment at the beginning to build an entire Hertz system, and I'm going to follow through. I like to stick to one brand when I do a system. I am very familiar with Infinity and Alpine systems. My last install I did with Alpine's Type R speakers and V-Power Amps. Turned out great, but I would say that the Hertz sound cleaner. The Hi-Energy sub I have now is the best I've heard.

I decided to try the Hertz this time because I was able to take advantage of a couple really good sales.

DollaDollaDill
03-14-2017, 07:25 PM
currently in the middle of my install. SoundQubed everything with a zapco 650.6 amp and a Hifonics zeus for now for the sub.

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a128/mklw4/CL3C9404_zpsle85whum.jpg (http://s10.photobucket.com/user/mklw4/media/CL3C9404_zpsle85whum.jpg.html)

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a128/mklw4/CL3C9954_zpsqgjjzzvv.jpg (http://s10.photobucket.com/user/mklw4/media/CL3C9954_zpsqgjjzzvv.jpg.html)

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/923/8woRFD.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/pn8woRFDj)

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/923/gEhJDx.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/pngEhJDxj)

question. Im running new speaker wires and getting rid of the built in amp for the rear. I have this factory sub like all avants do i guess, My car did not have an amp anywhere i could find, except for what seemed to be on inside the sub box itself, with about 8 wires running into it. would i be correct to assume that was it? If so, is there a wiring diagram anywhere?

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a128/mklw4/33254961556_a0ecc5812b_o_zpsk8g9m9lq.jpg (http://s10.photobucket.com/user/mklw4/media/33254961556_a0ecc5812b_o_zpsk8g9m9lq.jpg.html)

MrSnickelsnizer
03-16-2017, 03:24 PM
currently in the middle of my install. SoundQubed everything with a zapco 650.6 amp and a Hifonics zeus for now for the sub.

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a128/mklw4/CL3C9404_zpsle85whum.jpg (http://s10.photobucket.com/user/mklw4/media/CL3C9404_zpsle85whum.jpg.html)

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a128/mklw4/CL3C9954_zpsqgjjzzvv.jpg (http://s10.photobucket.com/user/mklw4/media/CL3C9954_zpsqgjjzzvv.jpg.html)

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/923/8woRFD.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/pn8woRFDj)

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/923/gEhJDx.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/pngEhJDxj)

question. Im running new speaker wires and getting rid of the built in amp for the rear. I have this factory sub like all avants do i guess, My car did not have an amp anywhere i could find, except for what seemed to be on inside the sub box itself, with about 8 wires running into it. would i be correct to assume that was it? If so, is there a wiring diagram anywhere?

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a128/mklw4/33254961556_a0ecc5812b_o_zpsk8g9m9lq.jpg (http://s10.photobucket.com/user/mklw4/media/33254961556_a0ecc5812b_o_zpsk8g9m9lq.jpg.html)

Damn that amp is long and the speakers look awesome! As for the sub, the amp I always thought was in the avant non bose sub boxes. Maybe try pulling that speaker out of it and looking inside. Should be a tiny little thing. The wiring will be really similar to the non bose a4 sedans. Which means without a line output converter you can't run your amp. So be prepared for that. You wouldn't want to throw out the oem amp that drives the rear sub box due to that. I am sure I could find you a wiring schematic in the bentley repair book.

L'Audi
10-24-2017, 09:02 AM
Thread necromancy for anyone looking for advice:

There are a ton of brands that make power and are budget-friendly; Soundstream/PPI (Same company now), American Bass PH series (small footprint, lots of power), MB Quart Q and Discus lines (large amps though), Cadence and HiFonics.
As much as I'm a brand snob, I've installed and personally used mid-tier units, in-between my bigger builds. they all have decent sub-$200 amps that make decent clean, usable power.
Like most have mentioned before, stick to the 4 Ohm stuff if you're just trying your hand at car audio.
8 Ohm or pro-audio speakers CAN sound amazing in a car audio environment but typically required more power and wired in parallel to lower the impedance. For example - I'm running 8 B&C 8's and 2 Eighteen-sound 6.5's off a single Taramp's HD5000 @1 ohm.
also, when determining the load you'd be putting on your amp - factor in your tweeters! A common, recommended setup is a woofer and tweeter both rated at 4 ohms, per corner, in parallel for a final load of 2 ohms per channel (assuming your 4-channel is 2 ohm stable).
If you're unsure about any of this, get a multi-meter and measure the resting impedance before installing.

BonusParts
10-24-2017, 10:59 AM
For what its worth, If you have a single or pair of BOSE concert rear deck speakers left over, id buy them. my LR woofer took a shit