View Full Version : rear wheel bearing replacement

12-09-2005, 04:02 PM
The humming sound from my rr wheel is starting to really piss me off, so time for another bearing replacement. I've gotten it done about 40k miles ago but dont remember wat it ran me. Have any of you gotten it done recently? Im getting the feeling my mechanic is trying to rip me off.

12-09-2005, 06:24 PM
I know that sound, horrible, just go to ECStuning.com, they have the kit. i got mine for like $ 54 for one of my rear wheel bearing.

12-09-2005, 06:40 PM
I just had one done, parts are cheap ($100-125 OEM) but labor and having the bearing pressed(?) is the expensive part. Cost me $300 for everything at $50/hr. for labor and $110 to have it pressed.

12-09-2005, 09:07 PM
$90 something for labour..
and $60ish for parts...IIRC

12-11-2005, 03:33 PM
i just did my pasenger rear and i brought the assembly to someone cost $30 to take it out and press the new one in

12-11-2005, 03:54 PM
i just did my pasenger rear and i brought the assembly to someone cost $30 to take it out and press the new one in

Well there you go...

02-28-2007, 04:23 PM
how hard is it to take out the rear spindle for a wheel bearing replacement? I was quoted $250 to replace it and thats w/ me supplying my own parts.

02-28-2007, 05:37 PM
there is a special tool you can get that will press the bearing in and out without having to remove the rear bearing housing.

Ive been looking online for this tool as i just purchased 2 new rear wheel bearings myself.

I think ecs has the caliper tool for rather cheap right now only $35

the advantage to having that special press is you dont need to dismantle your suspension and you dont need to get it aligned after you are all done.

although if you mark the suspension settings really accuratly before you dismantle

those eccentric cam bolts you can at least re assemble to probably within really close of the correct alignment so it wont destroy your new bearings and wear out the tires if you cant get it aligned within a day or two.

the actual procedure goes something like this

with car on ground
Remove wheel trim
loosen collar bolt (hub bolt)

warning - car must be on ground when loosening and tightening collar bolt for drive axle. or risk accident...

loosen wheel bolts
jack car up

remove wheel

pull abs wheel speed sensor from bearing housing
remove collar bolt

remove bolt for connecting link to wheel bearing housing
remove track rod

remove caliper (dont forget to support with wire)
remove brake disc

mark installation of eccentric washer for bolt for wheel bearing housing to lower control arm and remove

remove wheel bearing housing to upper control arm bolt

remove wheel bearing housing from drive axle

torque specs for collar bolt 85ft lbs + 1/2 turn (180 degrees)

wheel bolts 89 ft lbs

installation is reverse order.

wheel bearing stepped design (larger inner diameter of bearing faces wheel hub)

aka the larger inner diameter points outward away from the differential

hope this helps someone

easy as cake and pie

02-28-2007, 05:46 PM
i think that part is called a hub shark. There is a write up w/pics on audiworld if i remember correctly.

03-01-2007, 07:56 AM
imho the cheapest way to do it is order the bearing from blauparts, and take the ass'y to a shop that will press it in and out for you (like someone else mentioned.)

renting tools, etc gets time consuming and costly.

also, its a tapered bearing - it only goes in and out ONE WAY!

03-01-2007, 08:25 AM
The last rear bearing I replaced, I had alot of issues with the camber adjustement bolt. I tried my best to get it close to spec but, the rear camber was still off. I could feel the car pulling.

Removing the assembly from the car isn't really tough but, you really should do an alignment when it's all done.

I've found that most shops do charge $30-40 to do the press work if you bring it all in for them but, I have had issues with small shops making mistakes by rounding out the hub edge or not cleaning the surfaces that the new bearing goes into. I recently did one of my front ones and used my local VW dealer to do the press work. They charged me $33 after tax and they did a perfect job. They even gave me the old bearing intact so I could see how worn it was.

03-01-2007, 09:22 AM
Hub Sharks/Hub Tamers kick ass. When I worked at Midas, it was 100x easier with a hub shark, much faster, and less to screw up.

03-01-2007, 09:40 AM
the reason i would rather buy the tools and do it myself is because im trying to get a job at an audi dealership.

and i would do anything to get the job. I would go to germany and live with my ancestors eating bratwurst and drinking lager until i knew german so well i could speak it in my sleep.

I would buy my own stall in their shop and equip it just so no one else could use my stuff. etc....

so i guess for me.... in the long run

buying a $150 glorified C-clamp is not such a huge deal

heck... if someone wants to point me to some specs Ill make my own version in my machine shop.

mill $6,000
tooling for both, $3,000

knowing how to use them without ripping my arms off... $priceless

not getting ripped off by hack mechanics, and working on your own machine ftmfw