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vavJETTAw36
02-01-2017, 10:54 AM
Hey Guys!

Currently have a e85 K04 Powered 2000 s4 (3.32 FATS). I have gotten too used to the power so I am moving on.

Current mods:
- RP K04
- Bosch 044 pump
- Fidanza LWFW and southbend stage 3
- RS6 Coilpacks
- 17z w/ c230 rotors(standard setup)
- B6 Avus wheels
- 034 MAF/elbow using stock airbox adapter
- SSAC turbo back
- SRM v3 IC's
- bixenon projector conversion
- 550CC Injectors

My new build will have the following mods:
- SRM K24s/inlets
- K03/04 flange to RS6 Flange adapters
- Injector Dynamics 1000CC
- Walbro 450
- IE Rods/ARP Hardware
- new rings and hone/oem pistons
- 2.8 heads w/ supertech exhaust valves + springs + retainers
- JHM B7 RS4 Stage 4 clutch
- possibly a crank girdle
- possibly a big bore intake manifold
- Fluidamper

http://i.imgur.com/pGxsC12.png
http://i.imgur.com/jSkIiN3.png

Royal769sr
02-01-2017, 11:08 AM
Nice! Good luck

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LightningLou
02-01-2017, 11:11 AM
Is that a portable lift in your driveway? I commend all you brave souls that do engine pulls out in the elements because it isn't fun... Especially in VA. I remember pulling the engine out of my Lightning in the parking lot of a small condo complex I was living in up in CT mid November when it was like 20 degrees out and even snowing at one point... The neighbors were amused to say the least, although bitched at me later cause of a few oil stains on the pavement I later ended up power washing so they would shut up. Good luck and let us know if you have any questions along the way if this is your first engine pull. These cars are actually really easy to do motor pulls on because of the fact that the whole front clip is removable and the motor essentially slides right out. Patience and beer is key!

vavJETTAw36
02-01-2017, 11:17 AM
Is that a portable lift in your driveway? I commend all you brave souls that do engine pulls out in the elements because it isn't fun... Especially in VA. I remember pulling the engine out of my Lightning in the parking lot of a small condo complex I was living in up in CT mid November when it was like 20 degrees out and even snowing at one point... The neighbors were amused to say the least, although bitched at me later cause of a few oil stains on the pavement I later ended up power washing so they would shut up. Good luck and let us know if you have any questions along the way if this is your first engine pull. These cars are actually really easy to do motor pulls on because of the fact that the whole front clip is removable and the motor essentially slides right out. Patience and beer is key!

Thanks for the words of wisdom.

Yes it is a scissor lift that I just park over to a) keep it out of the elements and b) to keep anyone from stealing it c) driveway isnt all that big d) 800lbs

I am currently building this new engine from scratch and will be leaving the engine in until I am ready to swap which... theres no way in heck itll be in this cold. My lift pretty much doesnt get used December-Feb haha.

christianb5s4
02-01-2017, 12:22 PM
Finally, was waiting for you to start a build thread! Looks like a great list of parts for the build, which lift is that btw?

vavJETTAw36
02-01-2017, 12:38 PM
Finally, was waiting for you to start a build thread! Looks like a great list of parts for the build, which lift is that btw?

Its the electro-hydraulic scissor lift from Harbor Freight. Got it a couple years ago with a %25 off discount. Think it was $1400 after freight.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v24/djenyc/IMG_0808_zps36580370.jpg

alphaVR
02-01-2017, 12:41 PM
Sub'ed... [:d]

NadaGTI
02-01-2017, 01:38 PM
Sub'd.
I'm doing a very similar build in a Passat only about 3 hours south of you in Roanoke. Jealous of your lift.

vavJETTAw36
02-01-2017, 01:51 PM
Sub'd.
I'm doing a very similar build in a Passat only about 3 hours south of you in Roanoke. Jealous of your lift.

Oh nice. I used to live an hour from there in radford/Blacksburg.... bring it on up if you ever want to use it :)


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QuinnsterKID
02-01-2017, 02:25 PM
Should be a monster when you are done. Cant wait to see the progress. Remember.....we like pics!

e30mclow
02-01-2017, 02:25 PM
Sounds good!

So you guys have lots of E85 up there? I've never seen it in the wild down here.

QuinnsterKID
02-01-2017, 02:30 PM
Its the electro-hydraulic scissor lift from Harbor Freight. Got it a couple years ago with a %25 off discount. Think it was $1400 after freight.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v24/djenyc/IMG_0808_zps36580370.jpg

Does it get in the way at all? Like if you had to do any driveline work?

vavJETTAw36
02-01-2017, 02:32 PM
No, we dont actually. On the VA side of DC area there is none until you hit my city. From my city, I am about 25 miles from all the other stations (west, North, South). I rarely drive so I rely on E85 here in Woodbridge. Between here and your area, theres nothing after getting into NC. Last summer I drove from Woodbridge to OBX and barely made it on a tank. Needless to say, I had to downgrade to 93. But who cares when you are at the beach! Unless of course you are trying to pull out onto route 158 ;)



Does it get in the way at all? Like if you had to do any driveline work?

Yes, it does get in the way but you just have to work around it. Kind of a pain but I installed my exhaust on that lift so its not terrible. If I am doing something right below the turbos (where the hydraulic cylinders are) I put a chair there (legs between the cylinder) and sit. I am 5'6 and have to bend a little. You def need a shop stool or whatever those are so you dont hurt your back.

Trb1
02-01-2017, 02:35 PM
I'd suggest looking at a different clutch setup. One that will absolutely be able to hold the power. Look at amd/ringer racing.

Also, maybe look into eBay h beam rods or something of the sort? They're essentially all the same. Just make sure you get ARP hardware, and have them weighed/wrist pins honed.

Just some suggestions to save some time and money! Looking forward to seeing the heads come together.

vavJETTAw36
02-01-2017, 02:46 PM
I'd suggest looking at a different clutch setup. One that will absolutely be able to hold the power. Look at amd/ringer racing.

Also, maybe look into eBay h beam rods or something of the sort? They're essentially all the same. Just make sure you get ARP hardware, and have them weighed/wrist pins honed.

Just some suggestions to save some time and money! Looking forward to seeing the heads come together.

The block is all ready to go. The wrist pins I do not believe were honed. Is there a way to visually see this?

I bought this bare block honed with IE rods installed by a reputable shop here in Northern VA. They will also be doing the head work. The block was sold to me by a gentlemen here that owns a Lamborghini/Bentley Shop. He abandoned this project after buying a B6 V8.

As for the clutch, I stumbled upon the JHM clutch and it seemed to be a good fit. Do you have any experiencing with it? Just wondering as I dont know shiza about other clutches. The ringer racing looked to be priced well too but would like some feedback on it with regard to comfort, etc.

Thanks All!

christianb5s4
02-01-2017, 02:48 PM
Nice, looks like a great setup. Can't wait to see all these builds on the road, there are a ton of B5 S4 builds that are getting close to done or are done this year.

alphaVR
02-01-2017, 02:52 PM
Drove my buddy's Stage 3 E85 S4 with the ringer racing stage 3 or stage 4 (cant remember) clutch and it felt very comfortable for being a huge upgrade. Grabbed VERY well. I ended up buying it off him when he parted his car out last year and it'll be going into my S4 this month.

Cajkaaa
02-01-2017, 03:10 PM
this will get moved soon lol

but jealous of the lift and can't wait to see this done!

vavJETTAw36
02-01-2017, 03:32 PM
Drove my buddy's Stage 3 E85 S4 with the ringer racing stage 3 or stage 4 (cant remember) clutch and it felt very comfortable for being a huge upgrade. Grabbed VERY well. I ended up buying it off him when he parted his car out last year and it'll be going into my S4 this month.

I wonder what the differences are between the feel of Stage 4 and Stage 4 plus? Also, there is an option for a hydraulic TO bearing. Any reason to buy this for $380?

Daveb5s4
02-01-2017, 03:43 PM
After eating through two FX-400's on my stage 3, I installed a ringer racing stg4. The ringing racing handles my daily driving and style better than the FX-400(less chatter and not as grabby). I've been driving with it about year.


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Trb1
02-01-2017, 04:46 PM
The block is all ready to go. The wrist pins I do not believe were honed. Is there a way to visually see this?

I bought this bare block honed with IE rods installed by a reputable shop here in Northern VA. They will also be doing the head work. The block was sold to me by a gentlemen here that owns a Lamborghini/Bentley Shop. He abandoned this project after buying a B6 V8.

As for the clutch, I stumbled upon the JHM clutch and it seemed to be a good fit. Do you have any experiencing with it? Just wondering as I dont know shiza about other clutches. The ringer racing looked to be priced well too but would like some feedback on it with regard to comfort, etc.

Thanks All!

I do have personal experience with a jhm stage 4. Cacti has an f21 e85 car with one and it slips on just that power. I've driven the car multiple times. I prefer the amd stage 2 I have over that 100 times over.

I see. I figured you were still buying parts! If you already have them then run it. Is what I meant by the wrist pin needing to be honed is that eBay rods generally are the exact same, but with less precision work.. so the wrist pin portion of the rod needs to be honed a bit to fit. Was just trying to save you a few hundo.

christianb5s4
02-01-2017, 05:18 PM
Ringer racing has a great reputation. I personally love my FX400 paired with the Clutchmasters steel LWFW and while it's certainly streetable and can hold at this power level, I'd look at Ringer or AMD for the next clutch I will use.

vavJETTAw36
02-01-2017, 06:02 PM
I do have personal experience with a jhm stage 4. Cacti has an f21 e85 car with one and it slips on just that power. I've driven the car multiple times. I prefer the amd stage 2 I have over that 100 times over.

I see. I figured you were still buying parts! If you already have them then run it. Is what I meant by the wrist pin needing to be honed is that eBay rods generally are the exact same, but with less precision work.. so the wrist pin portion of the rod needs to be honed a bit to fit. Was just trying to save you a few hundo.

Ah gotcha man. Thanks for the recommendations. I am completely open to them! I think I'm going to get the ringer amd. Just need to figure out if I need the 4 plus or the non plus. And if the hydraulic TOB is necessary


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vavJETTAw36
02-01-2017, 06:26 PM
Ah gotcha man. Thanks for the recommendations. I am completely open to them! I think I'm going to get the ringer amd. Just need to figure out if I need the 4 plus or the non plus. And if the hydraulic TOB is necessary


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Nevermind sounds like a terrible idea to have the TOB as the slave = Internal so if leaks you have to remove trans... Ill stick with OE

S4James
02-01-2017, 06:54 PM
044 is a better pump than that walboro 450
i would not change it out.

boost the voltage to it perhaps.

vavJETTAw36
02-01-2017, 06:59 PM
044 is a better pump than that walboro 450
i would not change it out.

boost the voltage to it perhaps.

Define "better". From my research the 450 flows almost twice as much and is made for e85. The 044 is also louder.


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ElementR
02-01-2017, 07:07 PM
I have the AMD Stage 3+ clutch and love it so far based on limited mileage. It still grabs higher than I prefer, but plan to put a pedal stop in the car in the near future... had similar grab point with the old Southbend clutch.

As for pin fitting the rods, you need to be sure you get the proper clearance. Don't run them too tight or it can lead to problems. I have RPM rods and Mahle Powerpack pistons. I had 1 maybe 2 out of 6 fit well. Others were too tight. Need to mic the pins and measure the rod bores for proper fit. You can easily open the rod bore up with a 7/8" Flexhone on a drill. It does not take much at all. If you are uncomfortable doing that yourself, then have a reputable shop do it... it's not something you want to overlook.

vavJETTAw36
02-01-2017, 09:02 PM
Ok everyone, should I go amd 3 plus or ringer racing stage 4?


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alphaVR
02-01-2017, 09:09 PM
I was recently looking into the 044 vs Walboro 450... from everything I am reading, not only is the Walboro 450 cheaper overall, but it flows more and like you said is E85 compatible

Trb1
02-02-2017, 06:00 AM
Ok everyone, should I go amd 3 plus or ringer racing stage 4?


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Personally, I am biased towards AMD. They will take a bit to get you a clutch has they're made to order (mine took just over a month), but I've heard nothing but good things. Plus they utilize a modified oem pressure plate, so the clutch will have a lot of OEM like characteristics. I'm not sure about the details on ringer racing, but I've also heard nothing but good things.

Just don't find yourself with a clutchmasters fx400 or anything that's 6 puck. They don't last worth shit and their is absolutely zero forgiveness. Very rough engagement and it's essentially on/off. Also from personal experience..

vavJETTAw36
02-02-2017, 06:55 AM
Personally, I am biased towards AMD. They will take a bit to get you a clutch has they're made to order (mine took just over a month), but I've heard nothing but good things. Plus they utilize a modified oem pressure plate, so the clutch will have a lot of OEM like characteristics. I'm not sure about the details on ringer racing, but I've also heard nothing but good things.

Just don't find yourself with a clutchmasters fx400 or anything that's 6 puck. They don't last worth shit and their is absolutely zero forgiveness. Very rough engagement and it's essentially on/off. Also from personal experience..

Thanks man. I think I'll do the ringer.


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DieselElectric
02-02-2017, 07:12 AM
Eh, I like my 6 puk with rs4 pp. Cheap and effective. Haven't had any issue with longetivity either. Put over 20k on it and still good upon removal. Held my f21's on 93+meth running 3.1 average FATS and a few launches here and there.

For the next setup (looking like BB k24's at the point) I plan to run the same thing.

S4James
02-02-2017, 07:17 AM
Define "better". From my research the 450 flows almost twice as much and is made for e85. The 044 is also louder.


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walboros are tinker toy pumps for villagers.

vavJETTAw36
02-02-2017, 07:19 AM
walboros are tinker toy pumps for villagers.

Can you elaborate why you feel that way? Is it a quality thing?


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DieselElectric
02-02-2017, 07:24 AM
Haven't had any issues with my 450 either. Can't hear it running at all, where as a 044 will drive you insane.

vavJETTAw36
02-02-2017, 07:33 AM
Haven't had any issues with my 450 either. Can't hear it running at all, where as a 044 will drive you insane.

Lol no kidding either. I can hear it over the exhaust when you are idling. I think it's worse that it changes pitches.


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TwoSnelz
02-02-2017, 08:06 AM
Nice build but I must say, that lift looks very unsafe lol

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vavJETTAw36
02-02-2017, 09:48 AM
Nice build but I must say, that lift looks very unsafe lol

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How so? It's got a mechanical brake for safety. That coupled with the hydraulics, it's probably safer than many lifts on the market.

It's a little dicey with lifting my expedition, but for the s4 is no match for it. It's very stable.


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christianb5s4
02-02-2017, 10:28 AM
Eh, I don't think the Fx400 is unforgiving or rough at all for a 6 puck. I have had no issues DD'ing it, takes serious abuse, and holds power no question. But that being said, while FX400s have been tried and true for years there are other options to consider too and AMD/Ringer get nothing but positive feedback.

IMO, the 044 is not even close to being annoying or intrusive sound wise. Maybe if you have a stock exhaust you can hear it, but otherwise it's only audible outside the car. While the 450 can outflow an 044 without question, the feedback I've gotten when I was looking at fueling setups from many old time B5 guys including Daz and ETspec is the 044 the superior pump quality and durability-wise.

S4James
02-02-2017, 10:35 AM
Can you elaborate why you feel that way? Is it a quality thing?


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Seen and had too many of them fail on me for my liking. As for the noise, my experience varies.. ive had some walboros be loud as hell, and my own 044 is not louder than than i can tolerate, i hardly notice it.


In terms of raw output. Well. I think the published specs and measurements are conservative at best. I dont think the 450 can really flow double what the 044 can. Outside of running very high pressures with modified check valves, and really, WHY are we running over 100psi on our fuel lines when we can easily drop base fuel pressure down....

But this is not the place to argue such things... sorry to the OP. Im going to come back and delete my comments once im satisfied my reply was read. (dont want to be rude)

TwoSnelz
02-02-2017, 10:44 AM
The lift just looks very top heavy, like the base isn't wide enough.

Is it bolted down to the driveway?

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vavJETTAw36
02-02-2017, 10:58 AM
Seen and had too many of them fail on me for my liking. As for the noise, my experience varies.. ive had some walboros be loud as hell, and my own 044 is not louder than than i can tolerate, i hardly notice it.


In terms of raw output. Well. I think the published specs and measurements are conservative at best. I dont think the 450 can really flow double what the 044 can. Outside of running very high pressures with modified check valves, and really, WHY are we running over 100psi on our fuel lines when we can easily drop base fuel pressure down....

But this is not the place to argue such things... sorry to the OP. Im going to come back and delete my comments once im satisfied my reply was read. (dont want to be rude)

No reason to apologize. I am completely open to debate. I have already purchased my 450 but if the 044 will meet the demand for fueling then I won't change it out. Just keep it till the 044 gives.


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vavJETTAw36
02-02-2017, 11:00 AM
The lift just looks very top heavy, like the base isn't wide enough.

Is it bolted down to the driveway?

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No. I'm sure it's the picture. I pulled it from google. I'm sure one could push a car over on it if they really tried. With any lift, you just gotta make sure the weight is distributed evenly.


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jbain2
02-02-2017, 12:23 PM
No, we dont actually. On the VA side of DC area there is none until you hit my city. From my city, I am about 25 miles from all the other stations (west, North, South). I rarely drive so I rely on E85 here in Woodbridge. Between here and your area, theres nothing after getting into NC. Last summer I drove from Woodbridge to OBX and barely made it on a tank. Needless to say, I had to downgrade to 93. But who cares when you are at the beach! Unless of course you are trying to pull out onto route 158 ;)




Yes, it does get in the way but you just have to work around it. Kind of a pain but I installed my exhaust on that lift so its not terrible. If I am doing something right below the turbos (where the hydraulic cylinders are) I put a chair there (legs between the cylinder) and sit. I am 5'6 and have to bend a little. You def need a shop stool or whatever those are so you dont hurt your back.

I am in Richmond. There is actually a filling station in Chester about 25 minutes south of Richmond if you come that way from the OBX. I know there are several ways to get there.

Good luck with the build.


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vavJETTAw36
02-02-2017, 12:27 PM
I am in Richmond. There is actually a filling station in Chester about 25 minutes south of Richmond if you come that way from the OBX. I know there are several ways to get there.

Good luck with the build.


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Yes absolutely there are tons on the way to OBX once you get passed triangle into Richmond. And even in norfolk. But once you are in NC you are done lol. With the range of e85, you can't possibly get to the beach and drive around and back to va without filling.


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alphaVR
02-02-2017, 01:20 PM
Easy solution = put 3 5-gallon cans on E85 in your trunk. Thats what my buddy would do with his S4. Not ideal but it works.

vavJETTAw36
02-02-2017, 02:51 PM
Easy solution = put 3 5-gallon cans on E85 in your trunk. Thats what my buddy would do with his S4. Not ideal but it works.

Yea thats an option too. I just deal with it and switch to 93. Im sure the cali folk are ROFL and scoffing at me.

christianb5s4
02-02-2017, 03:08 PM
Surprisingly, California doesn't have as plentiful of E85 stations as people might think. For example, I'm not sure how one would make it from say Los Angeles to San Francisco on E85 unless you bring 10 gallons with you. I personally have two 5 gallon tanks I fill if I'm driving more than 200 miles.

vavJETTAw36
02-02-2017, 03:11 PM
Surprisingly, California doesn't have as plentiful of E85 stations as people might think. For example, I'm not sure how one would make it from say Los Angeles to San Francisco on E85 unless you bring 10 gallons with you. I personally have two 5 gallon tanks I fill if I'm driving more than 200 miles.

Ha sorry I meant for the non-e cali drivers forced to drive on 91.

- - - Updated - - -

And finally some pics

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170202/b9461d12a4e36e8cfa69d417cab04bc4.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170202/660f6d4240eefb44a37fedbaa4c12292.jpg

slowSfaux
02-02-2017, 03:46 PM
Nice looking build you got going here. Definitely looking forward to updates.

a4quattro.kid
02-02-2017, 06:31 PM
Lemme buy that forge valve


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Mille Bornes
02-02-2017, 07:30 PM
Maybe a little late to the clutch convo but I've put like 45-50k miles on my RR stage 4. I think it's great, real smooth, easy to drive and has held fine the dozen or so times I've launched on it. I can't say whether it'll be enough for you but I do like it. I also had an FX400 for a period of time. That took some getting used to.

And, fwiw, I've had my Walbro pump for about 50k miles as well. No issues, it is a 400lph so not exactly the same but just throwing that out there.

vavJETTAw36
02-02-2017, 08:04 PM
Lemme buy that forge valve


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Hey find your own forgies


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vavJETTAw36
02-02-2017, 08:04 PM
Maybe a little late to the clutch convo but I've put like 45-50k miles on my RR stage 4. I think it's great, real smooth, easy to drive and has held fine the dozen or so times I've launched on it. I can't say whether it'll be enough for you but I do like it. I also had an FX400 for a period of time. That took some getting used to.

And, fwiw, I've had my Walbro pump for about 50k miles as well. No issues, it is a 400lph so not exactly the same but just throwing that out there.

Good info man thanks.


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ElementR
02-02-2017, 08:43 PM
Maybe a little late to the clutch convo but I've put like 45-50k miles on my RR stage 4. I think it's great, real smooth, easy to drive and has held fine the dozen or so times I've launched on it. I can't say whether it'll be enough for you but I do like it. I also had an FX400 for a period of time. That took some getting used to.

And, fwiw, I've had my Walbro pump for about 50k miles as well. No issues, it is a 400lph so not exactly the same but just throwing that out there.

A buddy has an FX400 in his B5 S4. I've driven it and it's very grabby. He was surprised I didn't stall it right off the bat, but I've been driving cars with clutches all over the map for over 20 years and have always had manual cars so probably developed my leg over years... still, I would not want that clutch in my car. He's getting rid of his and going twin disc.

Mille Bornes
02-02-2017, 08:58 PM
lol same with a friend of mine. I offered to let him drive my car and he didn't make it out of the parking lot before he told me to drive

a4quattro.kid
02-03-2017, 10:02 AM
Hey find your own forgies


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Hey thats what im doing


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vavJETTAw36
02-08-2017, 08:24 PM
Those of you with k24s and SSAC exhausts, did you previously have k04 dPs and just swapped to rs6 flanged DPs?

I'm trying to decide whether to buy the adapters from jhm or new Dps. Problem is my exhaust is welded up except for the vband connections, so there is no room for error.




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CJ_
02-08-2017, 08:36 PM
I sold my k03/04 dps and got new ones. I went with the rs6 DPs v-banded to a welded up exhaust

vavJETTAw36
02-08-2017, 08:38 PM
I sold my k03/04 dps and got new ones. I went with the rs6 DPs v-banded to a welded up exhaust

So the exhaust was already welded up and your new DPs bolted up and fit fine?


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CJ_
02-08-2017, 09:05 PM
Oh I see what your saying now.. No the exhaust was welded up to fit the rs6 DPs. It was a full new exhaust with the build, so I can't really comment on fitment between the two

vavJETTAw36
02-08-2017, 09:08 PM
Oh I see what your saying now.. No the exhaust was welded up to fit the rs6 DPs. It was a full new exhaust with the build, so I can't really comment on fitment between the two

Darn... yea I'm worried that even though the same jig might have been used, that the flange might not be positioned exactly the same... I may just have to do the adapters.

CJ_
02-08-2017, 09:23 PM
yeah they seemed really similar, but again no way to really tell for sure.. if you didn't want to go with the adapter, you could always weld in a flex pipe to your test pipes if they don't match up

vavJETTAw36
02-08-2017, 09:25 PM
yeah they seemed really similar, but again no way to really tell for sure.. if you didn't want to go with the adapter, you could always weld in a flex pipe to your test pipes if they don't match up

:( good suggestion! Unfortunately I'm catted. I suppose a flex could be added somewhere along those too, but not much room with the kitties there.


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CJ_
02-08-2017, 09:41 PM
Ah I thought about that as I was typing it ha.. The DPs do have flex pipes though, so there would be some wiggle room.. Depending on how different they are

sherbet
02-09-2017, 04:55 AM
If you are still unsure about clutch.....Southbend Stage 4 extreme. Should hold all the power you want to throw at it plus a lot more and the drivability is really good for something that can hold in excess of 700hp. I have a few friends with the stage 4 extreme and one with the stg 4 endurance running on various setups (STK/TTE 780 etc...) and after about 3-4K miles those setups really feel great. Very grabby and once you get past the chattering phase when its brand new, pedal feel smooths out and its very easy to adapt and get used to driving even as a daily.

The twin disks are gnarly for the record, haven't driven anything other than a Tilton but the stage 4 extreme is certainly no where near as hard to operate.

S4James
02-09-2017, 05:15 AM
running same southbend... been good so far, i get some low pitch rubbing noise when slipping it into motion from a stop, but not since the last time it was pulled off and cleaned up. (I think the FW&PP probably just needed to be scuffed off)

Grabs well, very predictable for street launches. Not terribly heavy although it engages high..... Hardly ever stall the car compared to my old kevlar stage3 disk (ECS branded clutchnet).. That one was stall city...


Handled my k04 power without issue, will see how it handles k24 power this spring.

vavJETTAw36
02-09-2017, 07:09 AM
Hahahah. You guys just wanted to pop in to make deciding even harder, huh?!!! Bastads! Jk.

I appreciate the input thanks guys. I have read conflicting things about all the setups mentioned. So I am just going to have to choose one. I think I might go RInger since it'll be cheaper than the SB. I drive a SB3 now and ****** is grabby so... maybe it'll be good to experience something different.


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alphaVR
02-09-2017, 07:18 AM
Honestly I dont think you can really go wrong with either of them. IMO clutches are just like people's morning coffee... everyone has their own preference but it all does the same thing. From what I can recall, the Ringer Racing clutch will have a more OEM-like feel than the Southbend clutch, but I cant say specifically. Having driven a Stage 3 S4 with a ringer racing clutch, I can definitely tell you it's a very driveable and capable clutch kit... Choose whichever suits you best. If it comes down to cost, I dont think you'll be disappointed.

S4James
02-09-2017, 07:21 AM
I have only driven stock, the ECS semi faced, and the stage4 6 puck southbend.... Thats not a lot of expereience with different clutches.. That said I drove about 8 years on the ECS semifaced, and it was nowhere near worn out. I only went to southbend as I was going to build a tial car and wanted to try it out.

vavJETTAw36
02-09-2017, 07:26 AM
Thanks guys!


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vavJETTAw36
02-09-2017, 12:19 PM
Ringer racing stage 4 plus and flywheel... ordered

Also real nice guy briefly conversed with him on Facebook. Eager to answer any questions I had. Even started talking about irrelevant stuff.

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Hyphy
02-09-2017, 03:13 PM
is that a 6 puck (RR stage 4)?

vavJETTAw36
02-09-2017, 04:12 PM
is that a 6 puck (RR stage 4)?

Full faced.

Pasted from their website:

Heavy-duty street & racing system
Holding capacity 225% over stock
Heavy-Duty reinforced pressure plate
Hi-Leverage pressure ring design
Sprung hub/cushioned Steel backed disc
Full Face Cerametalic Material on both sides


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brandon91891
02-09-2017, 04:29 PM
running same southbend... been good so far, i get some low pitch rubbing noise when slipping it into motion from a stop, but not since the last time it was pulled off and cleaned up. (I think the FW&PP probably just needed to be scuffed off)

Grabs well, very predictable for street launches. Not terribly heavy although it engages high..... Hardly ever stall the car compared to my old kevlar stage3 disk (ECS branded clutchnet).. That one was stall city...


Handled my k04 power without issue, will see how it handles k24 power this spring.

Hmm interesting can you explain your first sentence further? I noticed that when I'm driving on the highway and take a exit and come to a stop and then put the car in first I get a low pitch rub you described nothing feels wrong but it definitely makes a noise and I wouldn't say it happens more than once a week. And only happens when I engage the clutch i have a b7 rs4 clutch with a jhm lightweight flywheel.


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vavJETTAw36
02-11-2017, 04:39 PM
Donor engine has found its way back home

34336

And they didnt drain the oil so it made a huge mess in the trailer and my shed
34337

vavJETTAw36
02-11-2017, 04:41 PM
Hardware sizes to bolt up to the engine stand:

One thing is missing, M10 1.25mm Hex Nuts (2 quantity)

and ~9 bucks plus shipping from FMW Fasteners

http://i.imgur.com/8YnAYc1.png


and I am re posting this information from AlphaVR. Thanks buddy




By any chance do you know this? I recently bought a engine stand from harbor freight. I have not put my engine on yet and I noticed you had yours on so figured I'd quickly PM you. Thanks man.

Keep up with the good progress


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Hey,

Sorry about taking a bit to get back to you. I had to find the picture I took that outlined the various bolt sizes I needed. Note that every bolt I purchased was at LEAST a SAE Grade 8 or Metric Class 8.8 bolt, or a higher strength bolt if possible. This was done purely to ensure that the strongest possible connection between the engine and stand plate was available. It costs a bit extra but in the end it's a worthwhile insurance policy.

Here's everything I bought - bolts, wasters, and nuts included (high-res photo):

https://c4.staticflickr.com/6/5598/31332472571_e91a364b6f_k.jpg

Referencing the image below, the engine is connected to the stand at the location for bolts #11, #2, #8, and then the empty space between bolts #5 & 6. Hopefully that makes sense to you.

https://c6.staticflickr.com/6/5780/31332473341_11be21a268_b.jpg

One CRITICAL note to make is you need to torque the shit out of the bolts that lock the adjusting arms to the actual stand plate into place. After getting everything mounted, I soon realized the engine's weight was causing the adjuster arms to slip ever so slightly. Just make sure you get those cranked down and you should be good.

Let me know if you have any other questions.

vavJETTAw36
02-15-2017, 04:55 PM
Clutch came in already. Fast as hell and they sent me a ringer shirt :)

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170215/5778ddbbf8c9b4c3f656696fe67c97b6.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170215/dd23f19c79452b0c22e6fdb1336c4847.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170215/d3961fee238316db5129af810155273d.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170215/05a354a03846aa3d1edecd633ab4ceb9.jpg


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jbain2
02-15-2017, 05:46 PM
That looks nice!


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vavJETTAw36
02-15-2017, 05:49 PM
That looks nice!


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If it weren't so heavy I'd hang it on the wall.


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LightningLou
02-15-2017, 08:03 PM
Excellent choice on the clutch, you will love it! Make sure you bleed the slave very well though before install.

slowSfaux
02-15-2017, 08:24 PM
Is that the clutchmasters flywheel? If so, you'll be happy with it. I've ran both the cm as well as the ttv with the same oe rs4 clutch, and the cm had no chatter, whereas the ttv had chatter when accelerating below 2k rpm. Also the ttv makes a weird metal noise, like sharpening a knife, while cranking the engine. I think it has to do with the ring gear being machined into the flywheel, whereas the cm is pressed on.

zillarob
02-15-2017, 08:44 PM
Looks like the shorter fw bolts for that one?
Need to adjust torque for them. I think it is the same initial, but 90deg instead of 180deg like the 43mm ones.

vavJETTAw36
02-15-2017, 09:32 PM
Looks like the shorter fw bolts for that one?
Need to adjust torque for them. I think it is the same initial, but 90deg instead of 180deg like the 43mm ones.
Ill have to measure. The guy said there were instructions inside but there isnt oh well.... Thanks ROb

zillarob
02-15-2017, 10:03 PM
Ya, they look to be the shorter allen head head ones from the counterbores on the fw.
In the end, they will be just as tight as the longer ones, but only need 90deg to get the proper stretch because the area between the head and where the threads engage the crank is shorter.

Measure the bolts up to be sure, but they spec the 22mm ttrs bolts at 60nm + 90deg. That is prob pretty close to what you will have.

vavJETTAw36
02-16-2017, 07:32 AM
Thanks Rob, Ill do that!!


Ok guys, I am trying to decide whether to get the SRM engine girdle or just run stock. Any experience with the girdle???

zillarob
02-16-2017, 10:19 AM
No exp, but I would skip.

vavJETTAw36
02-16-2017, 01:17 PM
Ya, they look to be the shorter allen head head ones from the counterbores on the fw.
In the end, they will be just as tight as the longer ones, but only need 90deg to get the proper stretch because the area between the head and where the threads engage the crank is shorter.

Measure the bolts up to be sure, but they spec the 22mm ttrs bolts at 60nm + 90deg. That is prob pretty close to what you will have.

From bottom of head to end of bolt they are 25mm FW bolts. 16mm PP bolts


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zillarob
02-16-2017, 11:01 PM
Been a while, but I think I used the shorter Audi bolts and the 60nm +90deg on the last one of those I saw. Iirc, f21 car and still rolling.

Sounds like it came with bolts so you should be fine, but I would thread them in until they bottom lightly in the crank and make sure there is less under the head than the thickness of the fw.
The plus 90deg will stretch them .25mm so leave some wiggle room.
I usually knock the tip off the 45mm bolts many use on the thicker fw just to be safe. The last ~3mm is unthreaded anyway.

I should have a ttrs fw around here I can measure tomorrow to compare.

tate182
02-22-2017, 10:51 AM
I just emailed Mike from Ringer Racing as I have the same Clutch and he said

flywheel bolts

44 lb/ft + 180deg

pp bolts

15 lb/ft

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vavJETTAw36
02-22-2017, 11:27 AM
I just emailed Mike from Ringer Racing as I have the same Clutch and he said

flywheel bolts

44 lb/ft + 180deg

pp bolts

15 lb/ft

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That is odd, they gave me the following just a couple days ago:

"non stretch flywheel bolts - 55 - 65 lbs

PP bolts should be around 20-25 ft lbs

use a dab of loctite on all of the bolts"

vavJETTAw36
02-22-2017, 04:20 PM
Started the tare-down and got my bare block positioned on the stand. Progress baby.

The block has a little surface rust on the outside... I think I'll try some rust dissolver and wire brush. Anyone have recommendations?

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170222/880fccadfd6168bdc8a3ae19884a6ad2.jpg


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Trb1
02-22-2017, 05:56 PM
Glad to see you went with the ringer racing. Good choice.

vavJETTAw36
02-22-2017, 07:49 PM
That is odd, they gave me the following just a couple days ago:

"non stretch flywheel bolts - 55 - 65 lbs

PP bolts should be around 20-25 ft lbs

use a dab of loctite on all of the bolts"

Ringer confirmed for me that the CM flywheel uses non stretch bolts and therefore, the Torque specs are as noted above


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zillarob
02-22-2017, 08:05 PM
I just emailed Mike from Ringer Racing as I have the same Clutch and he said

flywheel bolts

44 lb/ft + 180deg

pp bolts

15 lb/ft

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That is the audi spec for the longer stock bolts. Wouldnt surprise me if it worked (Im sure many have done it), just not ideal.
The first 44lf/lb is basically only to get everything metal to metal.
The angle afterward is the part that stretches the bolt.
If 180deg stretches the longer stock bolts properly, that will be too much on the shorter ones.

I would do (and have done) the 44ft/lb +90deg that audi specs for that size bolt.


The audi spec for the pp bolts is 22nm (~16ft/lb) w/blue loctite. This is not enough and a few of us have had them come loose there.
I do 30ft/lb + blue loctite on the steel fw. (25ft/lb + loctite on alum fw, with longest bolts that will fit)

zillarob
02-22-2017, 08:12 PM
Ringer confirmed for me that the CM flywheel uses non stretch bolts and therefore, the Torque specs are as noted above


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My guess is they will be 10.9 bolts like most of the others.
Not positive, but I believe the .9 means its a stretch bolt in secret bolt code [:D]

vavJETTAw36
02-22-2017, 08:42 PM
My guess is they will be 10.9 bolts like most of the others.
Not positive, but I believe the .9 means its a stretch bolt in secret bolt code [:D]

Actually, they are 12.9.

Not sure but ringer says they are not stretch.


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zillarob
02-22-2017, 08:53 PM
Oem is 12.9 and I think every bolt I have seen that came with an aftermarket fw has been a 10.9.

I cant believe you are going to trust the mfg over some random dude on the internet [evilsmile]

slowSfaux
02-22-2017, 10:48 PM
Oem on the left, cm bolt on the right. Should be noted that the oe has already been installed and removed, the cm hasn't.
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y128/dreash/20170222_223916.jpg (http://s4.photobucket.com/user/dreash/media/20170222_223916.jpg.html)
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y128/dreash/20170222_223925.jpg (http://s4.photobucket.com/user/dreash/media/20170222_223925.jpg.html)

zillarob
02-23-2017, 05:01 AM
It really is 12.9, nice!

If you put the shorter one next to a ttrs bolt, the only difference would be 6pt instead of 12pt.
Id be using the audi spec.

tate182
02-23-2017, 07:40 PM
Here's the kit I got

Ringer Racing Clutch Kit and Flywheel:

Stage 4 Plus Cerametalic
Hydraulic Bearing: Clutch Masters Oem style bearing


I emailed him back saying op contacted him through Facebook and got a differnt answer then me and here is what he said to me

I sent a message on Facebook. But the numbers in this email are for 2 different sets of bolts, a set of non stretch bolts which is what are supplied with my kit when includes a flywheel and the other set that I emailed at first are for own stretch bolts which is why this had a 180 deg turn after you torque them down.

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vavJETTAw36
02-23-2017, 08:23 PM
I emailed him back saying op contacted him through Facebook and got a differnt answer then me and here is what he said to me
I sent a message on Facebook. But the numbers in this email are for 2 different sets of bolts, a set of non stretch bolts which is what are supplied with my kit when includes a flywheel and the other set that I emailed at first are for own stretch bolts which is why this had a 180 deg turn after you torque them down.

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But... you got the kit with the flywheel, no?

Ok thanks for clarifying that.


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tate182
02-23-2017, 08:49 PM
But... you got the kit with the flywheel, no?

Ok thanks for clarifying that.


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Yes I did!

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zillarob
02-23-2017, 09:55 PM
There are only 2 kinds of bolts for the fw- long and short. Long gets +180deg, short gets +90deg.
They are all stretch bolts as far as I am concerned. Unless maybe you dug through the arp catalog and found some true nonstretch bolts (if they even make such a thing).

The long ones have ~30mm that gets stretched.
They are 1mm thread pitch, 180deg will stretch them .5mm.
Spread that out over the 30mm and you get .0167mm/mm of stretch.

The short ones have ~15mm that gets stretched.
Still 1mm pitch, 90deg will stretch them .25mm.
Spread that out over the 15mm, and again, you get .0167mm/mm of stretch.

If you were to put 180deg on the short bolts, you would have .0333mm/mm of stretch (2x). Would prob break or rip the threads out of the crank before you got there though.

Mike is one of the very best dudes to deal with when it comes to these cars, but I wonder where he is getting that number?
If from cm, Id do some research yourself and you will prob end up using the audi spec [;)]

Ive never torqued them like that so I cant say it wont work, and it will prob work fine, but the audi spec prob ends up at twice what they are recommending.
At the end of the day, it doesnt matter how strong the bolts are or if they are stretch or not. The magic is how hard you pull the mating surfaces together, and the friction it creates.
If you dont pull them together tight enough for friction to keep it from rocking back and forth, it will chew itself apart el pronto, regardless of how strong the bolts are.

zillarob
02-24-2017, 08:16 PM
Here are the pics I was talking about.
This was an old cm fw that somebody else installed so I have no idea of the life it lived. I found it when putting rods in the motor.

This one you can see the end was jacked up from being too long

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/0D5YvMgmebEVnGd4UcVTWh6j4pl309vPvHkTneVToZ-1p8rNbAma4gwnab8GEh1j-PkwqZidV_CFVAphlBkpWhu2mhfsjcQ1epSeuNflz9ucTDdf0xL U5gHYySKxQyrEVhyRXwMGzv30hDJXlPUX4c1xEV8eKaVdpp3s3 msZq_vNXc46QV02PpRgAmLNpe6ymuBIgaMZUi3_sXFX9KrW1T4 2Ww6bpYD7BAw21xWBE97ywLyM6pf-5wsEeTc49GJZPnqHqyJGndd-LMnTLjNN1T3jgi_KQMuBgPOP15Pl0m4LmygTyWnWyErfTgE_CL spueZJfHKiqaPfcu1jhgxZ8Ax_8XxP7MqKNgietAM2okOwt95j TH_b7O100tvM0wl1SpIhLJz1Nvp6vvNC62ysy6LurV0XcCKMfg NMiNI0rIXfwahQ-pO66DrwfObcePJuZWZzSmwIV2vModVJDmvexhmLkd7pVCIbq1W Btw6aPbYwTOiAkKbHu9rnUWTnKPXLomTb3_MJcsfWjX2KqjZes DPMtRVnmtnoB7Pa4eOhmWQI_xmToEiw_E0-FgaOXUlrLsXqlxQ_hiyHqLU3IKuQLFeAwEyrAZn125Y4Uz-y2yHaiU7R8Rob=w576-h770-no


This one you can see the bulges on the thrust surface of the crank if you look closely

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/I7CRz-EFX9cD0r0Z96SUhpYOD_aqIyaApZksBJQ-13cYFrRpLBKQ-pXcZtvCPkjlbFEsvK2FLCXe7nZp71NgtpF9x1lRmuLXW3-fDi_0SI5d2HILAJJqfBjQWLbODcgWaAD7juB7UITZDcViCh9qQ iUq9__QV9BG6EWV9DTvIQLdE8_-SvBNVGde2_H-IhCwAbIJK41xsxgiO-jE0CrpEWTbBaeQowHQrvweUd_3wMPDGzkYDp-TrcWQnDGmMRxrpunDZqKhTFlgEj47MpN4pvAbhkmF8sOAm_b4y J4Qs3yvj3mfarVjPn9HQJ2ILNHxsdf7_Hw_J9tsxfnW47XARjb tHEudnttsrr2aIWK1ZsGIdZX9DgfZcOiwsXHjAhfOwqIQ3Yem6 SsbN9fCpK3bMHg3oHpUqbym5lz5it7qnbV9VWUmBObHLIoE4xC Z5XfN9UPc-tht217NdWQLtJp2kTv6Z_dmy_ge2v6aStUo2OmQGsPwII_INEL yk9T6APDA0sO93I49cZM-qCyMNXhf1xcX9END4QrxaosDjFhbpVACfeJjuG4r3bdpblyQ_L Lc3R1D6LoQdIxWdI6AmA6FQuOyCRmJPuXIQknMInzfiQHBOC_s OlkK=w576-h770-no


This is one of the thrust bearings. New on top, mashed one on bottom

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/gZY_xphq-PfTE0V1_qI1cPY1UX6SROW8FRdD_D2JYW4c6i1fSr6hHpZ1Cgo tS4-2Rds9_FwkOt3diB2NLheBJxW5O_mXGY6wczx2sO1HH9rvwQQrg WQRFtStScnstx5IjtI_K35MjQ9-DvYto8UUeKpcE6SjChIKM8FaJPYIuf8G0iszGFmh2YdoB8NlRq ydukNvk_shy8oe8lvmAsmKD0Xnkktn4H2ujuu7OVF_C_UPradF jYChs9h0U50gEBBTVUz_pSFWGG5mK6_km9rkxikXpGg61013o3 D3rQtduccSiSfFLuQJyuiIcKSjyDXSC7FrevvB3fjo7JV1NraK 5GjEoQ0nRNlPvJVKvsE9HfuM0KTTN8DkuSKYdzf0qSIx5PuHdQ nkLw0lO1kCzKzHIc8VuCt47mZtbpFD2FVBqF6FchqyI55LTI_u QIKeSgeo1wilk4HaOO5PCSO0_p9gKYmkUFq_sv8LooeHhkLVoY amohVqlaTGglQO19xokUf7Fu5dnOW1RIlChUR4p3riVybSFZU6 MKhMx_yUTOQ98XuhdY9L7tTUNl314-S3gdyujXMlBRz1QoOvQqZISGAx68xfDA8akVWlsKHYLQoH4uBi ArGCoJYg=w576-h770-no

vavJETTAw36
04-02-2017, 05:44 PM
Alright gents, made some progress. Had to finish a bathroom for my wife before she would let me do anything.

Oil pan modified for arp hardware.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170402/ccea8162973646a822bac657294fa428.jpg

Going on the block after I clean the pan really well. Debating on what to use to clean.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170402/67284bb753f751961e58ae531bf43a1a.jpg


I bought one of these oil pressure relief valves (since I'm replacing all the worn parts) and I found there are two in the valley. Should I buy a second or just replace the second? Anyone know how tough these things are?

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170402/9255b7954b10b5d3a23f038904bff960.jpg


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Mark00s4
04-03-2017, 07:30 AM
im not sure how tough they are or if you need to replace them,but i did. I do know if they stick it will cause excessive crankcase pressure and cause oil leaks. figured it was cheaper to and easier when i was doing my bottom end.
so thats my 2cents for whats its worth. good with rest of your build. keep updating.

vavJETTAw36
04-03-2017, 07:31 AM
im not sure how tough they are or if you need to replace them,but i did. I do know if they stick it will cause excessive crankcase pressure and cause oil leaks. figured it was cheaper to and easier when i was doing my bottom end.
so thats my 2cents for whats its worth. good with rest of your build. keep updating.

Thanks man. I think you are right, cheap insurance for something that is slightly pricey, but could cause a lot of monies worth of damage. What's another 40 bucks, right?


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christianb5s4
04-03-2017, 09:22 AM
What's another 40 bucks, right?

Ha, and that's how things add up REAL quick. I agree though, I replaced every single thing because I knew that if a part failed or was a weak link after putting so much time and money into it, I'd be furious at myself.

vavJETTAw36
04-03-2017, 07:05 PM
Ha, and that's how things add up REAL quick. I agree though, I replaced every single thing because I knew that if a part failed or was a weak link after putting so much time and money into it, I'd be furious at myself.

No kidding bro. I started breaking down this donor engine and in my mind I was making cash register sounds as I am taking worn pieces off. Lol


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alphaVR
04-03-2017, 07:16 PM
I said the same thing.... next thing you know a year and $6k has gone by...

tasinb5s4
04-03-2017, 07:24 PM
nice build , hope to see you at track
I'm always running at Richmond drag way I'm the only audi there :( there was few tuned b8.5 s after i hurt there feeling they never show up again (wish never did it )
it sucks to be alone

Zba
04-03-2017, 07:44 PM
nice build , hope to see you at track
I'm always running at Richmond drag way I'm the only audi there :( there was few tuned b8.5 s after i hurt there feeling they never show up again (wish never did it )
it sucks to be alone
Haha, it sucks to get beat by a 15 year old car

derek2079
04-03-2017, 09:27 PM
Respect. You are a mad man

vavJETTAw36
04-05-2017, 04:33 PM
Decided that if I clean up these old dirty parts and throw paint on them, it would set pace for me. It's hard to keep from jumping right in, but just trying to keep steady and not make mistakes.

Rust removal
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170405/90f5b96575d37e9149ba19ba90e373df.jpg


Once you go black, you never...
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170405/9dfaa85bd58b7616e5e1f5c42ecd36bc.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170405/a6bb2d16da7f8ac75f109cc43aeabd49.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170405/9f079005295f67405cfa3822d6ce0b47.jpg

Not perfect, but better than rust.


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vavJETTAw36
04-07-2017, 11:41 AM
First time an S4 has left me stranded. Fuel pump is acting up. Providing enough fuel to idle but leans and stablizes non stop. Chokes when you give it gas. low FP. Could be filter, but I am running e85 through the 044 which isnt approved for such use, so chances are its the pump. Filter is probably 25k old...

Luckily i have a 450 laying around for my engine build. Also have my old stocker. I dont feel like dealing with the SRM bracket in the parking lot 30 min away, so I decided to adapt it to the oem inner part of the basket.

I saw a thread on how to do this, but I hate the idea of using orings to secure it. So I set out to figure out a cleaner solution:

Cut notch in side, trim a bit of plastic off the grooves on the inner bottom so the pump will sit slightly higher, hose clamp, done.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170407/17327882fca3ac0129b54d240c0794d6.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170407/e3ca9e73a85cd8d117c59a3d73664998.jpg

Bordom
04-07-2017, 11:47 AM
Mines done that a few times, but not since I secured the pump properly.

Power connections to the pump would fall off in tank. The worst time was just after I had filled it and gone on the highway. Nothing like spilling $20 of gas all over the road and being elbow deep into a fresh tank of gas screwing around with the electrical connections.

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vavJETTAw36
04-07-2017, 12:02 PM
Mines done that a few times, but not since I secured the pump properly.

Power connections to the pump would fall off in tank. The worst time was just after I had filled it and gone on the highway. Nothing like spilling $20 of gas all over the road and being elbow deep into a fresh tank of gas screwing around with the electrical connections.

Sent from my SM-G935W8 using Tapatalk

My 044 is secured with a CNC'd stainless adapter that clips into the basket. I dont think the pump has come off but i suppose it is possible. and the electrical connections are ring terminals crimped and soldered, so those babies are on there. What's more likely is that the inlet hose has a hole or something. I could hear the pump doing stuff, so I know its getting power.

vavJETTAw36
04-08-2017, 05:06 PM
Guys,

Can I reuse the banjos highlighted in red? Also, anyone have the part # for #44 (in blue)? I cannot find it anywhere

http://i.imgur.com/mQOMKDR.png?1

Mille Bornes
04-08-2017, 06:55 PM
No help here but I've also been looking for 44. I haven't called my local dealer yet but I couldn't find them anywhere online

vavJETTAw36
04-08-2017, 08:54 PM
No help here but I've also been looking for 44. I haven't called my local dealer yet but I couldn't find them anywhere online

Lmk if you find it and I will do the same


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vavJETTAw36
04-08-2017, 09:42 PM
Found!

http://www.jimellisaudiparts.com/products/Audi/Round-seal/5634719/N-90777301.html

Part number N90777301


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vavJETTAw36
04-11-2017, 07:15 AM
She's coming along. Bottom crankcase locked up with exception of RMS. Moving to front, sides, and top.


Before lower pan
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170411/021464c02b8c5c3348292e93292b77f0.jpg

Lower pan, front flange, and FMS
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170411/da4b184826783ee19e783b202830de44.jpg


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landfill
04-14-2017, 10:40 AM
For all the little OE parts try gap first and then my second go to is Jim Ellis audi parts. Best prices and availability around.

vavJETTAw36
04-14-2017, 07:00 PM
For all the little OE parts try gap first and then my second go to is Jim Ellis audi parts. Best prices and availability around.

Funny you say that I've been getting most from Jim ellis, and then ecs. Whichever is cheapest. Ecs has better shipping so if it's a couple small things it's usually ecs


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gumbyrs
04-15-2017, 08:01 PM
Just get RS6 downpipes dude save your self the hassle..
Also check my partout thread if you need anything. Goodluck!


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vavJETTAw36
04-15-2017, 08:04 PM
Just get RS6 downpipes dude save your self the hassle..
Also check my partout thread if you need anything. Goodluck!


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I'm worried the downpipes won't line up with the rest of the exhaust since it's all welded up.


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gumbyrs
04-15-2017, 08:17 PM
Find a good exhaust guy


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vavJETTAw36
07-29-2017, 08:42 PM
Finally heads done and mounted. Full super tech valvetrain, port and polish, 5 angle valve job. Still need to install rs4 cams. Waiting on tensioners.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170730/3ac03a7a00a6ac38c9e2cebdbaa3b252.jpg


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vavJETTAw36
07-29-2017, 08:48 PM
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170730/7b83827070626106e1f29e3e29773291.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170730/6173c68691c820a0090ba12adf5ad86c.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170730/bd9b2a81fe7224c0d894fe5788a8c443.jpg


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vavJETTAw36
08-07-2017, 05:47 PM
Turbos mounted, rebuilt n75 hoses, and a bunch of misc stuff. I found that i didn't have a bunch of the banjo bolts so I was unable to hook up coolant and oil lines to turbos.

Rs4 camshafts came in just waiting for the new cam adjusters. Once those come in I'll be able to put the cams in and time it.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170807/177b5ad17e1910fdf6e1a3e4056e9f90.jpg


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jaychen
08-07-2017, 05:56 PM
hell yeah brother. nice work

Mille Bornes
08-07-2017, 06:33 PM
Where did you end up getting your cam adjusters from?

vavJETTAw36
08-07-2017, 06:34 PM
Where did you end up getting your cam adjusters from?

I wasn't happy about it, but I ended up getting oem from pureMS for $550 a pop. Didn't want to mess with any of the fakes that have Audi stampings or aftermarket garbage. Too much money in the heads to risk it.


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Mille Bornes
08-07-2017, 07:46 PM
I feel you on that, I'll probably end up doing the same [>_>][wrench]

vavJETTAw36
08-13-2017, 09:27 AM
I feel you on that, I'll probably end up doing the same [>_>][wrench]

PSA: do not buy the ones from PUreMS. I received them only to find they were EXACTLY the same ones i originally bought from fcpeuro for $196 a pop. They are deceiving customers into buying these. They even cut the labels off that say "made in China". Tell me that isn't deceit. We will see if they enforce their 20% stocking fee on these 1100$ China cam adjusters.

Here's a pic for reference

Left side is pureMS, right side fcpEuro

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170813/1cdddf02aa3bb85d7d03238876d0fa20.jpg

Notice how the H and the F part number boxes are consistently different between the left and the right. (Top has tab, bottom doesn't have tab)
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170813/7b744278a304de0a58a9d47ef4e1ac7d.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170813/3c52c4b541976a87a1352ef9cbac1502.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170813/c3108894f236bff4435cf184b18d152f.jpg


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S4UCE
08-14-2017, 10:38 AM
Yikes, so they charge you a $356 premium on each one to remove a label from the outside of the box? The evidence is pretty damning..

tate182
08-14-2017, 03:59 PM
I was having the same problem as you finding cheap oem ones so I just stuck with my old ones and got new chains

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vavJETTAw36
08-20-2017, 06:57 AM
Alright an update and I'll post some more pics later. Cams are installed and timed. Went with the OE adjusters I originally bought from FCP euro. Somehow missed two camshaft seals in my order so I had to place an order for those. All that's left to install is:
- inlets
- valve covers
- plugs
- fuel rail
- intake manifold
- Rear main seal and flange
- flywheel and clutch

Everything else will be done during motor pull day




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalkhttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170820/7ab6023f72dec25a7beae20b03ede8dd.jpg

vavJETTAw36
08-23-2017, 06:28 PM
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170824/8add978f8cf02e5b160d376c060d7488.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170824/3cd753d4ff7de390f509e9a0f8bf518b.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170824/6a5f5f62accc4369367d393f2f87ef9e.jpg


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CJ_
08-24-2017, 12:28 AM
Awesome progress! Not sure if I missed it, but what's welded on to that thermostat housing?

vavJETTAw36
08-24-2017, 04:59 AM
Awesome progress! Not sure if I missed it, but what's welded on to that thermostat housing?

Hmmmm not sure. Maybe something for the Passat? I never noticed.

Edit: that's part of the timing cover.


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CJ_
08-24-2017, 10:30 AM
Guess I've never noticed that before, thought it was something custom, but looks like all thermostat housings have that tab lol

vavJETTAw36
08-27-2017, 03:44 PM
She's timed, covered and ready to get dirty.

Inlets are tentatively mocked but loose. They are all able to be secured to the VCs and manifold brackets. I will tighten everything once I install IM and Y pipe and probably have to adjust the inlets.

Next weekend I'll do that and finish all the little crap above the valley cover

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170827/bb089b74226423e3717eb2bddb93212a.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170827/7d31cb8e1e746dc5b508049234e979f2.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170827/35802650caf2cfc8c755e8a46663ab4d.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170827/43ef3aa7f7b71cdf6715bbd3dac04e98.jpg


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vavJETTAw36
09-03-2017, 12:56 PM
She ready to be put in. Flywheel and clutch on. Off to the races.


Ringer racing stage 4+ specific content:

I went with zillarobs recommendation of 44 Ft lb + 90 degree for the FW bolts. This is audis spec for the shorter bolts. I added blue loctite for safety.

30ft lb for PP bolts (steel flywheel) + blue loctite.

I also knocked down a couple mm from the end of the supplied bolts to make it an even 23mm. If you do not do this, you run the risk of screwing up your crank.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170903/0efd0d341a1065dfbf4c1744813183f3.jpg


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Corradovolksb
09-03-2017, 01:15 PM
Ahh yah. Looking great bro

tate182
09-03-2017, 10:18 PM
I also knocked down a couple mm from the end of the supplied bolts to make it an even 23mm. If you do not do this, you run the risk of screwing up your

What do you mean by this? I gave mine to my machine shop for balancing and used robs recommendation as well but didn't know you need to shave the flywheel bolts down too?


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christianb5s4
09-05-2017, 12:09 PM
Awesome stuff Rob! I went with the same pieces that you got from FCP and they are doing well so far, no issues to report.

vavJETTAw36
09-05-2017, 12:16 PM
Awesome stuff Rob! I went with the same pieces that you got from FCP and they are doing well so far, no issues to report.

Haha the Name is Shawn but that's ok. All that referring to Rob above got you all confused.

That's good to hear that the adjusters are working out for you. Good price so can't complain yet.


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vavJETTAw36
09-05-2017, 12:23 PM
What do you mean by this? I gave mine to my machine shop for balancing and used robs recommendation as well but didn't know you need to shave the flywheel bolts down too?


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It all depends on the stack size of your clutch setup. I was told by rob that the factory bolt size is 23.5mm (don't quote that tenths number) and it's a good idea for safe measure to knock off the tip (no threads) to make sure it wasn't too long. He sent a picture of a crank that was warped in the back because of this. I measured mine at 25mm, so I knocked off to 23 to be safe. I checked against the flywheel thickness as well and it seemed that it def needed a couple mm shaved off the end. I blue loctited as well for safe measure.


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christianb5s4
09-05-2017, 03:48 PM
Haha the Name is Shawn but that's ok. All that referring to Rob above got you all confused.

That's good to hear that the adjusters are working out for you. Good price so can't complain yet.


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Well shucks, that is embarrassing enough to get seared into my memory for good! Sorry Shawn, glad to see the build moving along nicely. There's always the little things that come up unexpectedly that make it a process.

vavJETTAw36
09-05-2017, 07:24 PM
Well shucks, that is embarrassing enough to get seared into my memory for good! Sorry Shawn, glad to see the build moving along nicely. There's always the little things that come up unexpectedly that make it a process.

It's all good man. We don't all run around with our names in our handles.

Yea no kidding. What I've learned through all of this is that it's hard to find good companies anymore. They either lack in actual communication, QA, or both.

The best service I have received thus far came from:

Ecs tuning
Jim Ellis Audi

I ordered so many parts from these places and each time they managed to send 100% of the parts without a hitch.

I will not go into the experiences with all of the other vendors, but each and every one of them had a problem. Like clockwork. Not receiving all the order, crazy wait times, no communication, etc.




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vavJETTAw36
09-09-2017, 08:49 PM
She's out. Not enough daylight to put the new one in. Tomorrow

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170910/95b7a4a966ef16b9c11e9427f5c07d75.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170910/9ee43fa4b06f1f9a554374b2992abcd5.jpg


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vavJETTAw36
09-10-2017, 06:21 PM
Plugging away. Had to get the new engine to the driveway from the backyard. Loaded into My expedition and went 4x4ing up a steep ass hill.

Swapped over everything from the motor to the new one. Mated the trans (took for freaking ever) and realized i forgot the starter. I was losing light so I decided to call it a night. Didn't get the new one in like I wanted to.

Taking off work so I can get shit done before the hurricane reaches



https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170911/ba3f2d6e547b3f2899b3fb2f48dd7edc.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170911/a017c185c7a892c15ad68bae30ec5486.jpg


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vavJETTAw36
09-13-2017, 05:08 AM
The way she sits since Monday evening:

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170913/f5734361d21529fe6c8e27fbbaa22fba.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170913/6c61956a700426ffb9da34b4bc57fc7c.jpg


Just gotta do driveshaft, axles, bleed slave, intake stuff, and front end.


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S4James
09-13-2017, 07:40 AM
I have to laugh at the logs and buckets.. :)

vavJETTAw36
09-13-2017, 07:41 AM
I have to laugh at the logs and buckets.. :)

lol desperate times call for desperate measures. You can't see, but on the opposite side of the log is a cinder block. :D


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vavJETTAw36
09-16-2017, 09:23 PM
https://youtu.be/df1jLDDnvQ8

She's alive!!! But she's bleeding coolant from the DS turbo and I cannot get to it from above. Made tools it won't budge. So gotta pull it tomorrow.


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slowSfaux
09-16-2017, 10:04 PM
This hurts brotha. I had a horrible leaky oil line when I put my turbos on. Took another motor pull just to get at the line with my mutilated wrenches I made just for this specific line.

Makes me wish I had gone single turbo. None the less, startup sounded good. I'll cross my fingers you can get it snugged up without too much trouble.

vavJETTAw36
09-17-2017, 07:24 PM
This hurts brotha. I had a horrible leaky oil line when I put my turbos on. Took another motor pull just to get at the line with my mutilated wrenches I made just for this specific line.

Makes me wish I had gone single turbo. None the less, startup sounded good. I'll cross my fingers you can get it snugged up without too much trouble.

This car is testing my patience.

I pulled the motor and reinstalled today. The problem was that I didn't use a thick washer and the coolant line bottomed out on the oil supply. And wouldnt seal. Vacuumed the system and it held wooooo hoooo. Started her up and she was squirting oil... something cut into the oil supply line while reinstall... FML.

So I'm trying to get a replacement, which I'll probably have to buy a whole set. That's ok with me but I'm not sure if this can be done without pulling the engine a third fucking time.


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christianb5s4
09-18-2017, 09:33 AM
That sounds like the B5 life right there, I've been through these things right there with ya. Loved hearing it start though!

vavJETTAw36
09-18-2017, 06:33 PM
That sounds like the B5 life right there, I've been through these things right there with ya. Loved hearing it start though!

Glad there's a bunch of people sharing the same pain lol

I got a better look at the oil line... there's 0 chance it can be changed inside the car. Gotta come out [emoji867]


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vavJETTAw36
09-23-2017, 05:39 PM
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170924/b48c545c327955a5103897766f422b9b.jpgAlright got my replacement oil line, dropped the motor and installed it. Not finished only got engine in and top bay wires connected. Ran out of light.

So the oil line I pulled... it was melted. I immediately had this flashback to last weekend where I went to start it and a puff of black smoke came from the back of the motor. I realized I forgot to connect the ground on the frame rail. I thought maybe it was the starter burning something off but I didn't think anything of it. The voltage went up the oil line and arced over to the.aluminum heat shield. When it did, it melted the oil line. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170923/0430a0a3e0537bbc3a5b0056b489fb78.jpg


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slowSfaux
09-23-2017, 09:29 PM
Wow, not at all what I expected when I seen you say you had an oil leak. These cars really test our resolve, but you're hanging in there. Hope it's drivable soon.

CJ_
09-23-2017, 10:57 PM
Awesome progress! Can't wait to see some results!

Crazy way for the oil line to get melted like that. Hope third time is the charm

vavJETTAw36
09-24-2017, 05:28 PM
In, she is. Buuuuut I must have ordered the wrong axle bolts so I have to wait on those. Also my exhaust didn't line up on one side. Weird since it's all welded up and if anything it should fit tighter since I'm using the k04 to rs6 flange adapters. I'm going to ignore it for now and drive with the exhaust leak. Maybe the mounts have to settle in.

I've got to say, this pedal feels really really light. Not sure if it's just the clutch or what, but it's super light. ringer racing stage 4+

So she sits without a bumper. I cut the cables for the AFR since they were running through the grommet and I didn't add any spade connectors. I also destroyed the coolant level sensor connector. So once these three things are done, I'll take her out for a engine break in. Then 500 miles of clutch break in.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170924/3dcaff55298707f96a8b1d44170c5e2c.jpg




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Bordom
09-24-2017, 07:36 PM
Seeing your car makes me sad for selling mine. Looking pretty damn good though!

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vavJETTAw36
09-25-2017, 05:27 AM
Seeing your car makes me sad for selling mine. Looking pretty damn good though!

Sent from my SM-G935W8 using Tapatalk

Sorry man. But you were in a tight spot.


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Bordom
09-25-2017, 09:08 AM
Sorry man. But you were in a tight spot.


Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkShould have taken a loan and gone full retard lol

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vavJETTAw36
09-25-2017, 09:28 AM
Should have taken a loan and gone full retard lol

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As a fellow AZer, fuck yes my friend. As your financial advisor, fuck no my friend.

It's all good you'll end up going retard with your AR.


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Bordom
09-25-2017, 09:33 AM
As a fellow AZer, fuck yes my friend. As your financial advisor, fuck no my friend.

It's all good you'll end up going retard with your AR.


Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkYessir, S6 4.2 swap is almost a go!

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vavJETTAw36
09-30-2017, 03:47 PM
Started her up this morning for her first drive on the road. She was misfiring on all cylinders. My intake manifold was leaking out of one of the EGT bolt holes. I guess the big bore process must have taken too much material and exposed the inside. Put a bolt and thread sealer in and drove her out of the driveway!


Took her on a 20 mile break in, she idles and drives so smoothly. Really responsive too. No leaks to speak of and no codes.

I do have a problem with my exhaust rubbing on the rear diff and the v flange on one side did not line up. So not I have some vibration and a slight exhaust leak I'll have to address later on. Maybe the motor mounts have to settle or something.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170930/8b5cf3276494245fdf3bff05b814c878.jpg


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JustManson
10-02-2017, 11:05 PM
Sent you an email. Starting to look at turbo options myself now... itís time.

There seems to be some differences on the k24 builds where some go for rods and rebuild the bottom end.... and others donít.

Based on your build it was a must, but if a build with k24ís doesnít push the 25+ psi do you think the rods are necessary?

Just curious on your opinion consider how well your build is.




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slowSfaux
10-03-2017, 02:52 PM
Fuel is the bigger determining factor of rods being necessary. If you are going to run e85 or race gas, go rods for sure. If you're going to run 93 and meth, you may want the insurance. Straight 93, or 91+meth rods aren't necessary.

JustManson
10-03-2017, 02:54 PM
That is exactly what I was hoping to hear.

I will be doing 93 only... no e85 or race fuel.

Thanks for the info slowsfaux!



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S4James
10-03-2017, 04:11 PM
i did rods on 94/meth, 30psi

just to be safe, but also becuase i wanted a fresh motor that was free of issues

AllroadCorbin
10-03-2017, 04:58 PM
That is exactly what I was hoping to hear.

I will be doing 93 only... no e85 or race fuel.

Thanks for the info slowsfaux!



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Youíre about to do the same thing Iím doing. Iím doing K24s and 93. Currently F21 and 93


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JustManson
10-03-2017, 05:17 PM
Youíre about to do the same thing Iím doing. Iím doing K24s and 93. Currently F21 and 93


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I just subscribed to your thread last night... gotta lot of pages to go through!

Iíll be hoping over there and Iím sure Iíll have some questions for ya.






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vavJETTAw36
10-03-2017, 05:27 PM
Currently I can't answer any of these questions because I have not really felt the car yet to tell you k24 over something else. You can get by without rods. If you're on a budget don't do it. If you aren't, shoot for the moon my friend.


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JustManson
10-03-2017, 07:04 PM
Currently I can't answer any of these questions because I have not really felt the car yet to tell you k24 over something else. You can get by without rods. If you're on a budget don't do it. If you aren't, shoot for the moon my friend.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I wish I was on a no budget build!

This is going to be a 3-6+ month project for me and Iím sure there are going to be some challenges to overcome and financial decisions to make as well.

I canít help but think the K24 is the best step forward to my particular situation. I have blown turbos...

I do have question though. The SRM K24 Hybrid has a ball bearing option for $900 more... did you opt for that? It was late last night when I read though I think you considered at one point?




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vavJETTAw36
10-03-2017, 08:38 PM
I wish I was on a no budget build!

This is going to be a 3-6+ month project for me and Iím sure there are going to be some challenges to overcome and financial decisions to make as well.

I canít help but think the K24 is the best step forward to my particular situation. I have blown turbos...

I do have question though. The SRM K24 Hybrid has a ball bearing option for $900 more... did you opt for that? It was late last night when I read though I think you considered at one point?




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I was considering the BB option, however, I don't like to be the first to buy anything. The JB has had a lot of run time so I am more comfortable with that route. Plus, I don't think the block will handle all 36 psi you could throw at it.


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JustManson
10-03-2017, 10:42 PM
I was considering the BB option, however, I don't like to be the first to buy anything. The JB has had a lot of run time so I am more comfortable with that route. Plus, I don't think the block will handle all 36 psi you could throw at it.


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I see your point. Considering Iím not building out the bottom end I think I have my answer.

Many thanks!


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Allroad2.7T
10-10-2017, 08:50 PM
Howís the break in going? Did you get that exhaust leak fixed?


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vavJETTAw36
10-10-2017, 09:31 PM
Howís the break going? Did you get that exhaust leak fixed?


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Exhaust leak is fixed for the time being. I cut out a 2.5 inch exhaust flange gasket. The other side leaked after that so I ended up wrapping that exhaust tape around the v flange and putting the clamp on that. Worked like a charm. Exhaust was hitting underneath it took me twice this weekend to get it corrected.

Car has about 350 miles on it. Will be ready to add boost this weekend once I put in the new hardware. I am currently using k04 hardware from my last tune.

The only issue I am having now is some oil has collected at the bell housing. Possible slight RMS leak, however, I am not seeing any dye that I added. So perhaps some remaining from the gushing oil line.


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vavJETTAw36
10-24-2017, 05:49 PM
Been awhile since I've updated. RMS is in fact leaking. I am going to roll the dice on this one and plan to fix it in the spring. I've always had a pretty loud gearbox, perhaps from a bad bearing, so I think I will also throw in a rebuilt gearbox while I'm at it.

I've been playing the waiting game. WDR sent me a rs4 throttle body instead of the stock s4 so I couldn't install it and start tuning. I had Craig send me a flange and I spent Saturday with my brother trying to get my bi pipe fit. Flange is welded on but I didn't have time to get everything fitted up.

This weekend I will install the bi pipe and make the appropriate modifications to the core support. I'll install the MAF, injectors, flash base tune, and intake.


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christianb5s4
10-25-2017, 10:11 AM
That's brutal about the rear main, I feel your pain man. Had the same thing happen except my turbo distribution block (where the line goes down to the block between the motor and the trans) started leaking 500 miles in, net net is an engine pull.

Definitely do whatever you can afford to do that you might not have done during the prior engine pull!

vavJETTAw36
10-25-2017, 02:55 PM
That's brutal about the rear main, I feel your pain man. Had the same thing happen except my turbo distribution block (where the line goes down to the block between the motor and the trans) started leaking 500 miles in, net net is an engine pull.

Definitely do whatever you can afford to do that you might not have done during the prior engine pull!

It could be the oil distro instead of the RMS. wont know until I get in there. I did change all of the gaskets on that distro so it should be good. It's funny because I put on a PTFE RMS and I changed it because I got scared. I went with the sprung rubber one. Probably is the reason its leaking LOL.

Yea for sure. The money isnt much of an issue its just the labor and fighting the clock. Once its cold my tools hibernate for the season and I only touch cars if i have to. I knew putting the new motor in that the gearbox was loud and I had this mindset of "fuck it ill fix it later". I guess I was blessed with a reason to get back in there LOL

christianb5s4
10-25-2017, 03:51 PM
Lol, that's exactly what happened to me. My rear diff carrier bearing was always really loud on my last transmission (JHM rebuild) but I was just going to run it until the first drive on the built motor and found my last motor destroyed the front diff beyond repair.

You can tell if it's that oil distribution block where the hard line goes into the block (it's sealed by an o-ring) with a boroscope. I thought it was a RMS leak at first too, had the rubber spring RMS in there not leaking but changed that to an OE RMS along with a new distribution block to be safe.

Keep fighting, the juice is worth the squeeze at the end!

vavJETTAw36
10-25-2017, 05:27 PM
Lol, that's exactly what happened to me. My rear diff carrier bearing was always really loud on my last transmission (JHM rebuild) but I was just going to run it until the first drive on the built motor and found my last motor destroyed the front diff beyond repair.

You can tell if it's that oil distribution block where the hard line goes into the block (it's sealed by an o-ring) with a boroscope. I thought it was a RMS leak at first too, had the rubber spring RMS in there not leaking but changed that to an OE RMS along with a new distribution block to be safe.

Keep fighting, the juice is worth the squeeze at the end!

Where to you put the boroscope? That access hole on the top left of the bell housing?


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christianb5s4
10-26-2017, 09:34 AM
Yup, that's the access point I used. It'll at least help you narrow what's actually leaking. My rubber sprung RMS wasn't leaking at all despite that being our first suspicions. Unfortunately, either way the engine and trans have to come back out.

vavJETTAw36
10-26-2017, 08:21 PM
Yup, that's the access point I used. It'll at least help you narrow what's actually leaking. My rubber sprung RMS wasn't leaking at all despite that being our first suspicions. Unfortunately, either way the engine and trans have to come back out.

Random question, didn't you go with a rebuilt jhm trans? If so, how much you pay in shipping?


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christianb5s4
10-27-2017, 11:55 AM
My last transmission had the JHM rebuild, I got it from a local B5er. It shifted great but was left outside for a while so the rear carrier bearing behind the center diff was not in great shape. I paid $600 but it met it's demise from my last motor blowing. I paid $1800 for a brand new AA high end rebuild 01e from a guy in Bay Area, that's what I'm running now.

vavJETTAw36
10-27-2017, 11:57 AM
My last transmission had the JHM rebuild, I got it from a local B5er. It shifted great but was left outside for a while so the rear carrier bearing behind the center diff was not in great shape. I paid $600 but it met it's demise from my last motor blowing. I paid $1800 for a brand new AA high end rebuild 01e from a guy in Bay Area, that's what I'm running now.

Nice. I might go AA as well. The deposit is much cheaper and shipping is cheaper as well. It's a bit more expensive by 500, but cheaper in the longer run.


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christianb5s4
10-27-2017, 12:10 PM
Agree, Scotty is a great guy too. Very helpful and knows these transmissions in and out. Mine has the Porsche syncros, cryo-treated gears, 4:1 diff, etc. But that more advanced rebuild is a longer turnaround time than their standard rebuild.

vavJETTAw36
10-27-2017, 12:11 PM
Agree, Scotty is a great guy too. Very helpful and knows these transmissions in and out. Mine has the Porsche syncros, cryo-treated gears, 4:1 diff, etc. But that more advanced rebuild is a longer turnaround time than their standard rebuild.

Know anything about the wavetrac diff stuff? It's an option but I've never in my life heard of it.


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christianb5s4
10-27-2017, 04:50 PM
For street driving at or under 600whp, it doesn't appear that an LSD is really needed. If you track then it absolutely is helpful but not something that's needed for 99.99999% of cars.

vavJETTAw36
11-04-2017, 03:00 PM
For street driving at or under 600whp, it doesn't appear that an LSD is really needed. If you track then it absolutely is helpful but not something that's needed for 99.99999% of cars.

Thanks brother that pretty much omits me since I don't track it.


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vavJETTAw36
11-04-2017, 06:14 PM
While I'm waiting on a new bi pipe from WDR, decided to swap my 044 for a 450.

Ran 10 awg from the battery to the lid, then inside lid to the pump, no shitty wire connector. A relay takes signal from the factory wiring.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171105/950f00d47b4187f3bb0cac6ab9ee9d39.jpg

Repinned factory harness

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171105/cbcd35aaee9501e18d87a73093ed4316.jpg


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vavJETTAw36
11-23-2017, 07:13 AM
Just an update: got my current bi pipe to fit and started hunting down many boost leaks. I guess the temp drops here in va loosened up all the clamps because I've had to tighten just about every one including those fun to reach turbo inlets (and I positioned them relative to what the SRM design would allow, not for what would be best for maintenance).

Also had to fix a leak coming from my big plenum from one of the welds. Then my throttle body was leaking from where my bro and I welded on the rs4 flange and it warped slightly. So I had to belt sand it down flat which required complete removal. Then because I reused the TB gasket it leaked after a couple of boost runs. So I had to remove the TB which is not easy with the 60mm WDR bi pipe. Cut out a gasket from that cork gasket material and now she's sealed.

Started the tuning process and we are on revision 5. We noticed we were playing whack a mole with the additive fuel trims. Waxing and waning by about 20%. So Brad thought I still had some kind of leak.

We bumped the boost up from WG (revision 3) to 18 (r 4) to 23 (r 5). My last revision I could not boost passed 19 so Brad said to check my n75. Checked the n75 and sure enough I crossed the signal and WG lines. So a signal and WG line was hooked to each port on the n75. Not my best moment that's for sure. After correcting the issue my WGs still won't hold pressure. Checked each side - Passenger side is leaking at the top and bottom of the hardline. I don't know how but i guess my clamps loosened up. Funny thing is the heat sleeve I used is covering the clamps so I'll have to attempt to move it or cut it.

So I guess our trim issue has been from that slight leak from the passenger side WG line.



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vavJETTAw36
11-23-2017, 07:16 AM
Did a quick detail before full blown winter:

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171123/07814043d773063646d3b84ec52b3bf4.jpg

Oh yea and this is how tight the bi pipe fits

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171123/1b3d7f8f74d93ad06aa1b1a8b5570f31.jpg


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Dfloods4
11-23-2017, 10:11 AM
Wow squeezed in there.


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jbain2
11-23-2017, 11:41 AM
That bipipe looks awesome though!


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jaychen
11-23-2017, 11:52 PM
jesus, thats a big boy in there.

how did you go tightening the wastegate line?

vavJETTAw36
11-24-2017, 08:55 PM
jesus, thats a big boy in there.

how did you go tightening the wastegate line?

Did it today. The last time I had to do something similar was last year and it wasn't as bad as this go around.

Firstly, I used a heat sleeve so I had to try to cut that off first. In doing so, I somehow managed to break the line off the wastegate. Like the nipple and line broke clean off. I'm convinced it was partially broke and leaking because i didn't see anything wrong with the soft line and clamps were tight. I was going to swap the actuator with one from my old motor, but it would be a lot more work. I scuffed the surfaces and jammed the line back into the actuator and soldered that bastard. So far so good! It held 30 pounds from my mity vac. Took her out for a run and she's boosting 22! Time for some tweaks and turn the boost up a little more.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171125/7efce564e6fb3a89216e21ad8ec2de0f.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171125/5baf2b418d0574b6f842247351568eaf.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171125/ba1221797546ab7a44152cb7a14d804a.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171125/b2d39432548b6f424e3373f41f80559c.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171125/afc1bb4fffa69879a16c745c6a0d5f0f.jpg




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jaychen
11-25-2017, 01:28 AM
solid macgyvering.

you drop the subframe down to get at that?

DieselElectric
11-25-2017, 10:55 AM
Did it today. The last time I had to do something similar was last year and it wasn't as bad as this go around.

Firstly, I used a heat sleeve so I had to try to cut that off first. In doing so, I somehow managed to break the line off the wastegate. Like the nipple and line broke clean off. I'm convinced it was partially broke and leaking because i didn't see anything wrong with the soft line and clamps were tight. I was going to swap the actuator with one from my old motor, but it would be a lot more work. I scuffed the surfaces and jammed the line back into the actuator and soldered that bastard. So far so good! It held 30 pounds from my mity vac. Took her out for a run and she's boosting 22! Time for some tweaks and turn the boost up a little more.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171125/7efce564e6fb3a89216e21ad8ec2de0f.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171125/5baf2b418d0574b6f842247351568eaf.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171125/ba1221797546ab7a44152cb7a14d804a.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171125/b2d39432548b6f424e3373f41f80559c.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171125/afc1bb4fffa69879a16c745c6a0d5f0f.jpg




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You need a set of these.

https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/71K5C5t%2BuUL._SL1000_.jpg
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01IEZA3E0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

And one of these.
https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/51mxTTgNJHL._SL1500_.jpg
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00K0TOYJE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I realize it's a little late now, but I don't trust the style clamps you've got on there. Used them on my f21s, but they seemed to oval a bit and one of the turbos had some blueing on the bearings while the other didn't. Not saying the line was leaking and that's what caused it because I never tested. Still though, the crimp fittings are badass.

DieselElectric
11-25-2017, 10:58 AM
For street driving at or under 600whp, it doesn't appear that an LSD is really needed. If you track then it absolutely is helpful but not something that's needed for 99.99999% of cars.

I can't say about a stock trans at that power level, but with the 4:1 mod my car would definitely benefit from an LSD in the rear end.

vavJETTAw36
11-25-2017, 11:13 AM
You need a set of these.

https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/71K5C5t%2BuUL._SL1000_.jpg
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01IEZA3E0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

And one of these.
https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/51mxTTgNJHL._SL1500_.jpg
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00K0TOYJE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I realize it's a little late now, but I don't trust the style clamps you've got on there. Used them on my f21s, but they seemed to oval a bit and one of the turbos had some blueing on the bearings while the other didn't. Not saying the line was leaking and that's what caused it because I never tested. Still though, the crimp fittings are badass.

Naaaaaaaah I don't fuck with oetegger or however the hell you spell it. I've had good luck with these as long as you use the minimum hose size rating from the labeled range. But that also makes it hard to get off because typically pushing the hose over something enlarges the outer diameter.

Buuuuut I agree with you I think these clamps would work well on those lines since you rarely have to mess with it. Toooooooo laaaaaaaatte


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AudiTechS4
11-25-2017, 03:07 PM
I used the same clamps. look clean and have a better seal then worm gear clamps
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B014I5HEWY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/7190qcvTaxL._SL1000_.jpg

vavJETTAw36
11-25-2017, 04:44 PM
Sooooo I pulled a 3.36 Fats at 28psi on my last revision right before my slave started crapping out. My clutch won't come back and it's stuck in gear. The worst part is my low brake fluid light came on so I am super scared it's leaking into the bellhousing


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vavJETTAw36
11-25-2017, 05:29 PM
solid macgyvering.

you drop the subframe down to get at that?

Dropped the engine mount brackets : both frame rail side and engine side. Pulled the inlet out and that gave me decent room.


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JVD
11-25-2017, 08:24 PM
Sooooo I pulled a 3.36 Fats at 28psi on my last revision right before my slave started crapping out. My clutch won't come back and it's stuck in gear. The worst part is my low brake fluid light came on so I am super scared it's leaking into the bellhousing


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Puddle under the car?

vavJETTAw36
11-25-2017, 08:26 PM
Puddle under the car?

I limped it into the driveway and it was dark so I haven't assessed yet.


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vavJETTAw36
11-26-2017, 03:28 PM
She's fixed. So I got lucky. My slave line was leaking from the slave. Long story short, the line is all bent to shit from when I pulled the motor and forgot to disconnect the Slave. The port broke off the slave. When I reinstalled I guess I side loaded it and vibrations must have made it eventually leak. Seems the slave port was worn out and no matter how much I straightened out the line it still leaked.

I lost the damn clip so I ended up having to go grab a replacement anyways. Luckily Metal duralast allows you to swap out the port. Swapped them out and now she's sealed up. They have lifetime warranties so I will swap for a brand new one and maybe sell it to recoupe.

Now back to tuning. Seems I still have some leaks above 15psi that I need to pinpoint. Anyone have a good way to test these types of leaks without pushing 20psi plus down the engine?
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171201/36e23f7d5a84a6193ecceb088d559b2c.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171126/4734a012e137d71c458f79710b9cf919.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171126/21f940687c3de5e97c12c648a168354d.jpg

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vavJETTAw36
12-09-2017, 01:48 PM
Just a little update:

Fixed all the boost leaks and resumed tuning. I am now close to 30psi. Problem I am facing now is it has been intermittently breaking up at high boost. After checking my logs it seems I have a misfire in cyl 4. I bought a new rs6 coil pack today so hopefully that fixes the issue so I can finalize the tune and move on to e85.

Edit: forgot I also regapped the plugs (bk7re) from .028 to .023 and that didn't fix anything. Then I bought bkr7eIX, put those in a .023 and issue is still intermittent.

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vavJETTAw36
12-15-2017, 08:35 AM
Just a little update:

Fixed all the boost leaks and resumed tuning. I am now close to 30psi. Problem I am facing now is it has been intermittently breaking up at high boost. After checking my logs it seems I have a misfire in cyl 4. I bought a new rs6 coil pack today so hopefully that fixes the issue so I can finalize the tune and move on to e85.

Edit: forgot I also regapped the plugs (bk7re) from .028 to .023 and that didn't fix anything. Then I bought bkr7eIX, put those in a .023 and issue is still intermittent.

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Got a new coil and she's letting loose just fine. Seems I may have a WG leak again, perhaps my repair job failed. Heres one of my last logs, but we have to smooth the boost out a lot and having a lot of trouble since the boost control is very lazy:

https://i.imgur.com/KxVUrkv.png

christianb5s4
12-15-2017, 12:18 PM
You can easily check the WG lines for leaks by taking off the hoses at the N75 and blowing smoke into them. That'll show you clear as day where the leaks are and is my go to method for testing those lines.

vavJETTAw36
12-15-2017, 12:21 PM
You can easily check the WG lines for leaks by taking off the hoses at the N75 and blowing smoke into them. That'll show you clear as day where the leaks are and is my go to method for testing those lines.

Thanks man. Yea I use my mity vac for that. Just gotta do it. It's been in the 20s and been working a lot. Tomorrow will be 47 so I should be able to tackle it tomorrow. Going to try to repair it again.


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vavJETTAw36
12-17-2017, 04:28 PM
Tested the WG lines this weekend, turns out my repair is still fine but I was leaking from the upper soft line. That damn hose I used was too hard of rubber and in the cold it leaks. Thankfully I ran out of it and switched to soft rubber when I did the driverside. It was a real bummer to get the hose clamp and hose off being buried so deep.

It made a difference in the logs and I've been working with brad to get the boost curve smoothened out. E85 will be soon!


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vavJETTAw36
12-19-2017, 04:57 PM
Fucking car. The slave is leaking again. I damaged the line during an engine removal so it's my own fault. Ordered a braided line so that I can replace the OEM one.


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JustManson
12-19-2017, 05:01 PM
That sucks. Atleast itís not a huge job... one of the first I learned.




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vavJETTAw36
12-19-2017, 05:04 PM
That sucks. Atleast itís not a huge job... one of the first I learned.




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True. This car has def been testing how far open my knees can go. So hard on them bending over to reach the back of the motor.


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vavJETTAw36
12-26-2017, 07:16 PM
Did the line replacement this weekend. Pretty straightforward using the usp install guide.

When out for a test drive and I couldn't make boost. After further diagnosis, my new 034 pcv valve was stuck opening allowing for an internal boost leak. Broke the spider leg running to the f hose so I had to temporarily rebuild that part of it. I cleaned up the pcv and got it to move again, but I will be replacing it with an OEM unit asap.


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vavJETTAw36
01-07-2018, 04:53 PM
My first buy for my winter parts collection. Finally getting rid of the bouncy tein coilovers that came on the car.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180107/3673838aee895bb423a8539cd0c5ca96.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180107/e530da9b495c95a31a869bdfae12405f.jpg

Also I have been having random intermittent ignition issues so I am going to convert to red top coils instead of the rs6 bolt downs. I have those just waiting for weather above 30 degrees. I want to get that squared away before switching to E85. My 93 tune has been finalized and it's making good power.




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CJ_
01-11-2018, 02:59 PM
PSS9s are awesome! So much better than the Konis I had on my old car.

You think the RS6 coils are giving you problems? Interesting cause thats the route I was gonna go, but guess Ill just go with the red tops.

vavJETTAw36
01-15-2018, 07:55 PM
PSS9s are awesome! So much better than the Konis I had on my old car.

You think the RS6 coils are giving you problems? Interesting cause thats the route I was gonna go, but guess Ill just go with the red tops.

I think the ones I have are just old. Plus they are beru and not genuine. I think they are OE supplier though.

I did the coil swap this weekend and it is running great. I went with the plastic Touareg adapters that I modified. I didn't like that they push into the threads so I drilled holes and used hex cap Allen m6x16 bolts. I also didn't like the fact that they don't seal the hole very well so I made gaskets and rtv them to the VC.

I am in the process of printing some of that will have grooves for the OEM gaskets, will bolt down, and will give you more orientation flexibility. I will swap out the Touareg ones soon.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180116/3c5ef5fb941a002e9775493fad330d80.jpg

After install of Touareg.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180116/ac90351e2a7c4ac83c63a5580ebf5912.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180116/ab16a4496e9d0f97dc0cbd4d42cc1841.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180116/fc26ccd427e8edbe3902138ddd984f18.jpg


In really good news the car is running very well. My 4th revision on E yielded a 2.7 FATS!



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jaychen
01-16-2018, 04:24 PM
Very slick. 2.7 is moving quite nicely

vavJETTAw36
01-28-2018, 07:57 AM
Nothing much to report. It was relatively warm so I washed her up inside and out. Current FATS is 2.6, estimated 600Whp /tq

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180128/ba284c9e82edc0e27ef12c89bf392381.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180128/c541135edf2d903f3175a0bd27865ed8.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180128/40796cbad363989a3a95d770540262ad.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180128/9ac0b52532aa7c326bc49d10ab178fb0.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180128/94ed229c4313e264b9182f78d6356062.jpg

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jaychen
01-28-2018, 06:06 PM
Clean. Well done.

christianb5s4
01-29-2018, 10:57 AM
That's awesome, solid FATs and glad the kinks are all (or hopefully mostly) worked out! So 2.6 seconds FATs loosely correlates to the 600whp mark? I know it's not an exact science but I remember seeing a thread back in the day about FATs to whp/wtq but haven't been able to find it in a while.

vavJETTAw36
01-29-2018, 06:12 PM
That's awesome, solid FATs and glad the kinks are all (or hopefully mostly) worked out! So 2.6 seconds FATs loosely correlates to the 600whp mark? I know it's not an exact science but I remember seeing a thread back in the day about FATs to whp/wtq but haven't been able to find it in a while.

Estimated through ecuxplot. I'm not sure what the FATS hp "mapping" is


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vavJETTAw36
02-02-2018, 07:54 AM
Ever since changing to e85 and increasing timing, I have had an issue with the clutch slipping in 4th, 5th, and 6th. I have had it happen in 3rd, but after a subsequent WOT pull it goes away. Im not sure what to do about it. Anyone have any suggestions?

slow ride
02-02-2018, 08:45 AM
Not much you can do as you appear to be at the limits. Most of the more aggressive disk materials will bite a bit more when heated and it sounds like you are right on the edge.

vavJETTAw36
02-02-2018, 08:46 AM
Not much you can do as you appear to be at the limits. Most of the more aggressive disk materials will bite a bit more when heated and it sounds like you are right on the edge.

Shouldn't be. It's supposed to handle 840 ft lb tq


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slow ride
02-02-2018, 09:00 AM
I see, well in my opinion you either have a flywheel that is not stepped correctly (too high) and reducing pressure plate clamp, your salve is applying force on the fingers of the pressure plate causing reduced clamp load when it should be at rest or the plate is just not built right to apply the correct pressure plate clamp load. About the only thing you can do in the car is check the slave action and be sure it is not applying force on the fingers when the clutch is not pressed (out). Are you using a stock length slave arm/slave cylinder?

vavJETTAw36
02-02-2018, 09:04 AM
I see, well in my opinion you either have a flywheel that is not stepped correctly (too high) and reducing pressure plate clamp, your salve is applying force on the fingers of the pressure plate causing reduced clamp load when it should be at rest or the plate is just not built right to apply the correct pressure plate clamp load. About the only thing you can do in the car is check the slave action and be sure it is not applying force on the fingers when the clutch is not pressed (out). Are you using a stock length slave arm/slave cylinder?

I'm not sure on the length, but I am using a metal duralast. I cannot recall the differences. I might have a factory and a duralast in my shed for comparison


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slow ride
02-02-2018, 09:13 AM
It's about all you can check in the car. Basically when the clutch pedal is out the TOB should just have light contact with the clutch spring fingers. If it had excessive pressure it would be reducing clamp load.

vavJETTAw36
02-02-2018, 09:16 AM
It's about all you can check in the car. Basically when the clutch pedal is out the TOB should just have light contact with the clutch spring fingers. If it had excessive pressure it would be reducing clamp load.

I think you're on to something. The engagement is much higher than stock and even higher than my last clutch (OEM slave).


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vavJETTAw36
02-02-2018, 01:12 PM
I see, well in my opinion you either have a flywheel that is not stepped correctly (too high) and reducing pressure plate clamp, your salve is applying force on the fingers of the pressure plate causing reduced clamp load when it should be at rest or the plate is just not built right to apply the correct pressure plate clamp load. About the only thing you can do in the car is check the slave action and be sure it is not applying force on the fingers when the clutch is not pressed (out). Are you using a stock length slave arm/slave cylinder?

Definitely longer

https://i.imgur.com/GqwqR53.jpg

CELison
02-02-2018, 03:50 PM
You're going to be much happier on E. It's night and day. I rather walk than drive on 93.

vavJETTAw36
02-02-2018, 07:56 PM
You're going to be much happier on E. It's night and day. I rather walk than drive on 93.

Lol yea it's a flipping blast I love it. 93 isnt too bad.


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vavJETTAw36
02-04-2018, 02:00 PM
2.44 FATS on a third pull. First run my clutch slipped, second run didn't get recorded since my tablet went to sleep, 3rd time was a charm.

I'm also happy to report that ringer racing assured me that it's temperature related. After my FATS I tried wot pulls in high gear and it was completely fine. Soooo, if you live in a cold climate with a cerametallic friction disc, expect to have to warm up the clutch.

https://i.imgur.com/V1Y8rxB.png
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180204/2f5adcd7a973622664fd28d185d407fa.jpg



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vavJETTAw36
02-19-2018, 02:48 PM
Bad news. The clutch is slipping even during warm days. It seems like itís getting worse too. Looks like I am going to park it until next month and pull the engine and trans. I donít want to risk damaging more of the clutch. Ringer racing suggests that it may be due to fluid damage. I have a minuscule rms leak that doesnít even spot my driveway, but I really donít think itís fluid related.

I guess Iíll be addressing the clutch and leak while itís out of the car. I really really wanted to put in an upgraded transmission from advance Automotion but unfortunately their lead times are 3 months. I guess Iíll consider another pull late summer :).




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christianb5s4
02-20-2018, 09:51 AM
Post up a wanted ad on the B5 FB groups and forums for an AA transmission and see if anyone has one for sale! That's what I did and lucked out hard on finding a zero miles built one immediately.

vavJETTAw36
02-23-2018, 01:48 PM
Post up a wanted ad on the B5 FB groups and forums for an AA transmission and see if anyone has one for sale! That's what I did and lucked out hard on finding a zero miles built one immediately.

No luck so far but I have found a gearbox somewhat local. Just not built. Maybe I will grab it and send it in for a build.

vavJETTAw36
03-03-2018, 05:19 PM
And there she sits. S4ntorin drove 1.5 hours to give me a hand. Thanks man appreciate that. 4 hour pull this time with a few hours of setup and cleanup.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180304/82b21a8539adcf45f18a1a927a33f53a.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180304/506f8935cc366c44354cc98dcb586bee.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180304/89722ff93745c07c6b6e70c6eddb9e54.jpg


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Corradovolksb
03-03-2018, 05:23 PM
Thatís moving man nice work.


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rguil
03-03-2018, 06:58 PM
2.44 FATS on a third pull. First run my clutch slipped, second run didn't get recorded since my tablet went to sleep, 3rd time was a charm.

I'm also happy to report that ringer racing assured me that it's temperature related. After my FATS I tried wot pulls in high gear and it was completely fine. Soooo, if you live in a cold climate with a cerametallic friction disc, expect to have to warm up the clutch.

https://i.imgur.com/V1Y8rxB.png
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180204/2f5adcd7a973622664fd28d185d407fa.jpg



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Is this your AFR on e85 or 93?

Would you mind sharing a graph of what your timing looks like in relation to boot pressure?

vavJETTAw36
03-03-2018, 06:59 PM
Is this your AFR on e85 or 93?

Would you mind sharing a graph of what your timing looks like in relation to boot pressure?

E85. Iíll post a graph later. What are u interested in?


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rguil
03-03-2018, 07:08 PM
E85. Iíll post a graph later. What are u interested in?


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That graph of your AFR VS Boost pressure im assuming is an interpolated value based off gasoline stoichiometric ratios not actual E85 stoichiometric values.
My WOT AFRs are at around 11-11.5 (91 octane, e85 sensor adjusts fuel load based off E% after that) and i am getting some hesitation under full load. After looking after that graph i might re tune my car to be a bit leaner if you are getting good results at around 12-12.5 from the look of it

Our builds are similar, i just want to compare my tune to yours and it would be interesting to see your ignition timing on E to see how far i can go![evilsmile]