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brendontaylor
12-15-2016, 09:32 PM
Please, im running out of time with my daily driver, i have an engine, tranny, wiring harness and ECU from my 2001 AWM 1.8t , and i need to put it into my 2001 ATQ v6 body- I desperately need to know the differences in the body plug setup- so, i need to know the male body plug wires from the AWM harness, and the female body plug wires from the ATQ V6 body- no joke, i will pay whoever can identify and tell me which wires to switch- my clutch is burning out and the engine is badly leaking oil... i could just put a clutch and valve cover gaskets in the V6, but i have a beautiful AWM engine with a rebuilt performance turbo, new cat, new borla exhaust, new cold air intake, and a new clutch...

I have all the wiring diagrams, but i really suck at figuring out which wires go to which body plug connector, and ultimately dont trust myself to accurately pin that out- I can't find any diagrams on these plugs for my year- I see V8 swaps all over the place on this forum, and they even have the wires all written out for each body plug, but unfortunayely, all the write ups are for different years :-( Thanks in advance, I really appreciate any time put into finding my answers, I WILL PAY YOU!! :-) :-)

EuroKid34
12-16-2016, 05:51 PM
Bump.


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brendontaylor
12-20-2016, 02:45 AM
Can't say I know what the hell "bump" means, but I guess thanks for the effort of the post, as small a contribution it might be


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TheRedGlacier
12-20-2016, 03:22 AM
Bump means that he is bringing your post back to the front page/top of the page, so more people see it. Quite literally bumping it.

brendontaylor
12-20-2016, 08:02 AM
Lol, I really had no idea what you were trying to say.... thanks for the bump


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blitz2190
12-20-2016, 09:17 AM
auto or manual? also are you sure they aren't the same being that both sets of body plugs and engines came from the same chassis?

blitz2190
12-20-2016, 09:21 AM
^ I thought so, typically if its from the same model/chassis it will swap over, from all the wiring I have poured through Audi doesn't change the wiring based on the engine, they match the ecu to the chassis. So as long as it came from the same model it should be a direct swap.

brendontaylor
12-20-2016, 10:25 AM
Both are manual, and the harness from the 1.8 has at least one extra wire in the body plug setup.... white body plug has the extra wire, and the wires in the 2.8 body plugs are different colors, gauges... don't think I can plug and play


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brendontaylor
12-20-2016, 10:28 AM
From what I understand, if I was putting in a 2.7t or a v8, body plugs would be the same- 1.8 appears to be totally different..... has anyone actually switched out the wiring harness inside the vehicle under the dash? If I attempt to do this, am I going to totally regret it and hate my life?


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brendontaylor
12-20-2016, 10:43 AM
And by the way, the extra wire in the 1.8 harness goes to the rear camshaft position sensor… Hence, making me really paranoid about messing up any wires in these plugs-hey, if it was just a brake light or the horn or a blinker, no big deal, I will just run a new wire- The fact that major engine sensors are going through these plugs makes me a little reluctant to splice anything, seems like it might just be better in the long run to switch out the wire cluster under the dash


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blitz2190
12-20-2016, 10:52 AM
And by the way, the extra wire in the 1.8 harness goes to the rear camshaft position sensor… Hence, making me really paranoid about messing up any wires in these plugs-hey, if it was just a brake light or the horn or a blinker, no big deal, I will just run a new wire- The fact that major engine sensors are going through these plugs makes me a little reluctant to splice anything, seems like it might just be better in the long run to switch out the wire cluster under the dash


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none of the sensor should be going to the body plugs unless its power, are you sure you traced it right? As far as changing out the chassis wiring, its probably a week long project, if you work on it a few hours a day, As far as wiring, audi doesn't change the chassis wiring from engine to engine because it would not be cost effective. what pin is it on the body plug and what color wire I have elsawin up right now.

brendontaylor
12-20-2016, 11:10 AM
It is a red wire with grey tracer, in the white body plug- cam sensor to a 15a fuse, to a relay next to the ECU, then through the white body plug to the fuse panel (20a fuse)


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brendontaylor
12-20-2016, 11:15 AM
The problem is, that a 12 gauge red wire doesn't match up to another 12 gauge red wire in the plugs-it appears that the wires are different colors and different gauges in of the plug wires


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brendontaylor
12-20-2016, 11:25 AM
I will put up a couple pictures in a few minutes of the body plugs from both engines


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brendontaylor
12-20-2016, 12:16 PM
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161220/ad74738e13ff3f974590698d0dd6a2ab.jpghttp://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161220/44dbf4a84bc063dbe0ec380d3f7066ad.jpghttp://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161220/48c992b48b4f392b7f0616bfa09c7639.jpg http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161220/a0ea4a59ed3c9ca3c96c30dde7c6c430.jpghttp://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161220/6f7361dd530f59f5c60a23b4abbe7cba.jpg

These are the 1.8 plugs


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brendontaylor
12-20-2016, 12:22 PM
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161220/b3c24eee1cb4535501b85b29bf792439.jpghttp://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161220/c4f091cee57aa7cca2f7666065e2f4c1.jpghttp://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161220/6e943b22bc7fc8b14013a731371890cf.jpghttp://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161220/3bd32eb0a4f9a4ec4460c97d65092ae0.jpghttp://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161220/de1513eba546db54f3ec9188047ebb03.jpg

This is the 2.8



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brendontaylor
12-20-2016, 12:25 PM
So, couple differences, couple are the same


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brendontaylor
12-20-2016, 12:29 PM
From what I can tell, The body plugs on the V6 have the same number of pins as the 1.8, except for that one extra wire in the white connector on the 1.8-Red wire, gray tracer, goes to the fuse panel with a 20 amp fuse, and if I'm reading it correctly, the wire goes back to the ECU from the fuse panel


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blitz2190
12-20-2016, 12:33 PM
I stand corrected the only difference I see is the injectors and fuel pump trigger, Both of which you should be able to repin without cutting, but wouldn't know without seeing the pins. give me a few to look into the diagrams and I'll see if I can help.

blitz2190
12-20-2016, 12:56 PM
t10m (black) pin 4 don't worry about the gauge, both the 2.8 and 1.8 connect directly to post 30 under the dash, the reason its thicker on the 1.8 is it supplies other things in the harness other than the ecu, but the chassis side is the same.

brown t10



2.8
1.8


t10/1
green/red k-line
green/red k-line


t10/2
yellow/brown mil light
yellow/brown mil light


t10/3
white/blue VSS
white/blue VSS


t10/4
red/black Starter
red/black Starter


t10/5
black/blue back up light switch
black/blue back up light switch


t10/6
empty
empty


t10/7
empty
empty


t10/8
black/red oil level sensor
black/red oil level sensor


t10/9
red/grey oil level sensor
red/grey oil level sensor


t10/10
yellow instrument cluster
empty



I will update this post as I go to keep my notes.

brendontaylor
12-20-2016, 01:24 PM
Differences are: tan connector pins 2 and 10, orange connector 2 and 4, red connector.... not exactly sure the pin numbers, but 2 are in different places


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blitz2190
12-20-2016, 01:26 PM
Differences are: tan connector pins 2 and 10, orange connector 2 and 4, red connector.... not exactly sure the pin numbers, but 2 are in different places


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just finished the brown connector, the exact same pinout, only the pin numbers are in a different order between the 2.8 and 1.8 not a clue why but post above updated. so you'll just have to repin it, I would sugest using the 2.8 plug so its not confusing.

brendontaylor
12-20-2016, 01:31 PM
My mistake, 3 extra wires on the red/orange connector on the v6
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161220/3d8a71b088eb6a4b816121fda0662f05.jpghttp://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161220/65ad8dd53c21032a33cd211381f9c058.jpg


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brendontaylor
12-20-2016, 01:43 PM
In the 1.8, the brown connector has empty slots in 2,6,7,10


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blitz2190
12-20-2016, 01:44 PM
is the 2.8 a front wheel drive? that black/yellow wire is suppose to be front wheel only

blitz2190
12-20-2016, 01:45 PM
In the 1.8, the brown connector has empty slots in 2,6,7,10


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repin it with whats in the chart, ignore whats missing, there was a few changes in 2001 where some signals, such as the mil light pin 2, are sent over can instead so it will still work.

brendontaylor
12-20-2016, 02:01 PM
If I'm understanding this correctly, i don't have to repin anything, because all the wires in the 1.8 are in the same positions as in the 2.8, and you said the 1 wire difference won't matter because the signal is sent from somewhere else?
The 2.8 is a Quattro as well....



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blitz2190
12-20-2016, 02:03 PM
no need to change anything on t15m red plug the extra 2 wire are a signal to the dash(done over can on the 1.8) and a wire for front wheel drive on the 2.8 not applicable to the 1.8 on this pin. the rest mach correctly, do both cars have abs?

- - - Updated - - -


If I'm understanding this correctly, i don't have to repin anything, because all the wires in the 1.8 are in the same positions as in the 2.8, and you said the 1 wire difference won't matter because the signal is sent from somewhere else?
The 2.8 is a Quattro as well....



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you will have to repin the brown connector, the pin numbers are the same but if you'll notice in your pics the actual placement of them is the exact opposite. just depin the 1.8t brown plug one wire at a time and match it to the same number on the 2.8 plug or color, both are the same.

thats all I have time for at the moment but should get you started, I think theres maybe one or two more wires that need to be fixed.

brendontaylor
12-20-2016, 02:09 PM
Both have abs- they truly are completely identical except for the power seats, Bose stereo system, and the engine


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brendontaylor
12-20-2016, 02:09 PM
Both have ESP


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blitz2190
12-20-2016, 02:25 PM
Just to he clear you are not holding that brown plug backwards in you pic right? As if you flip it around its identicalbto ths 1.8 minus the yellow wire and i just remebered that there are clips on bothe sides the plugs

brendontaylor
12-20-2016, 03:11 PM
Thank you so much, I really appreciate it- first place I'm driving to when this is done is my local Western Union to send you some cash. Let me know when we can tackle the orange and white plugs


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brendontaylor
12-20-2016, 03:12 PM
Nope, I've checked 4 times, plugs are identical except for the extra wires


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chris164935
12-21-2016, 12:57 AM
It looks like everything is pretty much the same, pin-wise. That's just from briefly comparing specific wiring diagrams in my Bentley. Injector power pin should be the same, solenoid power (evap, N75, etc) should be the same. The cam sensor has no fuse. The 15a fuse you thought was for the cam sensor is for the VVT/cam chain tensioner.
The red/gray wire you mentioned is what provides fused power the the 1.8t's ignition coils. But, the fused power in the 2.8 harness is different. So, there is a relay in the ECU box of the 1.8t motor that provides power to the red/gray wire that goes to the 20a fuse in the fuse box and then back out to the ignition coils (it goes the to ignition coils from pin 1 of T10ar, the orange connector). In the case of the 2.8, the fuel pump relay actually provides fused power the the ignition setup of the 2.8. The 2.8 ignition setup gets fused power from pin 1 of T10ar. So, you can leave the red/gray wire in the 3-pin white connector plugged in to nothing and plug in the orange connector and your ignition coils should get 12v power. Whether or not the 1.8t ECU will like this or not is yet to be seen. Also, the 20a fuse on the panel is in the same spot for the 1.8t and 2.8 (fuse 29).

I say keep your $100 and invest in a Bentley manual (book, not the software). If you've got the motor in, plug in the harness and ECU and try to start it up. If it doesn't start, scan the ECU for codes and check the wiring diagrams for reference to the codes.

blitz2190
12-21-2016, 07:19 AM
^ what he said, I wasn't expecting the 100 just helping, also there are only like 1-3 differences in total, I'm checking the pins for the white and orange plug now, again that brown plug looks like you holding it backwards in relation to the 2.8, spin in and take a picture so that pin 1 is in the same spot on both the 1.8 and 2.8

brendontaylor
12-21-2016, 01:06 PM
Can't thank you enough guys, I appreciate it


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blitz2190
12-21-2016, 01:16 PM
full pinout from the wiring diagrams of 2001+ ATQ and AWM enignes



2.8 (ATQ)


1.8 (AWM)



T10 Brown Plug







t10/1
green/red
k-line

green/red
k-line


t10/2
yellow/brown
mil light

yellow/brown
mil Light


t10/3
white/blue
VSS

white/blue
VSS


t10/4
red/black
Starter

red/black
Starter


t10/5
black/blue
back up light switch

black/blue
back up light switch


t10/6
empty


empty



t10/7
empty


empty



t10/8
black/red
oil level sensor

black/red
oil level sensor


t10/9
red/grey
oil level sensor

red/grey
oil level sensor


t10/10
yellow
instrument cluster

empty



T15m Red Plug







t15m/1
green/blue
abs control module

green/brown
abs control module


t15m/2
black/yellow
A70 front wheel drive only

empty



t15m/3
black/grey
a/c control unit

black/grey
a/c control unit


t15m/4
empty


empty



t15m/5
black/violet
instrument cluster

empty



[/td]
t15m/6
empty


empty



[/td]
t15m/7
empty


empty



[/td]
t15m/8
empty


empty



[/td]
t15m/9
empty


empty



[/td]
t15m/10
empty


empty



[/td]
t15m/11
empty


empty



[/td]
t15m/12
empty


empty



[/td]
t15m/13
empty


empty



t15m/14
orange/brown
Can Low

orange/brown
Can Low


t15m/15
orange/black
Can High

orange/black
Can High


T3au Red Plug (Attached to T15m)







t3au/1
empty


empty



t3au/2
violet/blue
crash signal (airbags)

violet/blue
crash signal (airbags)


t3au/3
blue/red
backup Light switch

blue/red
backup Light switch


T10ar Orange Plug







t10ar/1
red/green
fuse 229 Coils(supplied from fuel pump relay)

red/green
fuse 229 Coils


t10ar/2
red/brown
EPC Warning Light(if exist, if not Can signal)

red/brown
EPC Warning Light(if exist, if not Can signal)


t10ar/3
empty


empty



t10ar/4
empty


black/blue
Plus connection 15(shouldn't be needed in 2.8 chassis)


t10ar/5
black/blue
injectors (fuse 232)

black/blue
injectors (fuse 232)


t10ar/6
white/yellow
leak detection pump

white/yellow
leak detection pump


t10ar/7
yellow/red
leak detection pump

yellow/red
leak detection pump


t10ar/8
green/yellow
Valve supply (N80, N156, N112, N205, N208)

green/yellow
Valve supply (N80, N75, N112, N8)


t10ar/9
empty


empty



t10ar/10
empty


empty



T15 White Plug







T15/1
yellow/blue
Throttle Pedal Position Sensor

yellow/blue
Throttle Pedal Position Sensor


t15/2
yellow/violet
Throttle Pedal Position Sensor

yellow/violet
Throttle Pedal Position Sensor


t15/3
brown/red
Throttle Pedal Position Sensor

brown/red
Throttle Pedal Position Sensor


t15/4
gray/yellow
Throttle Position Sender

gray/yellow
Throttle Position Sender


t15/5
grey
Throttle Position Sender

grey
Throttle Position Sender


t15/6
brown/green
Throttle Position Sender

brown/green
Throttle Position Sender


t15/7
red/grey
Cruise Control

red/grey
Cruise Control


t15/8
blue
Cruise Control

blue
Cruise Control


t15/9
red/yellow
Cruise Control

red/yellow
Cruise Control


t15/10
black/white
Cruise Control

black/white
Cruise Control


t15/11
red/black
Brake Light Switch (A18)

red/black
Brake Light Switch (A18)


t15/12
white/red
Brake Light Switch (A106)

white/red
Brake Light Switch (A106)


t15/13
red/green
Clutch vacuum Vent Valve Switch

red/green
Clutch vacuum Vent Valve Switch


t15/14
empty


empty



t15/15
empty


empty



T3aa White Plug (Attached to T15)







t3aa/1
empty


empty



t3aa/2
empty


red/grey
Connection over fuse 229(may not be needed, tied in harness)


t3aa/3
red
secondary air injection pump

red
secondary air injection pump


T10m Black Plug







t10m/1
blue
Alternator Voltage Regulator

blue
Alternator Voltage Regulator


t10m/2
green/blue
RPM Signal

green/blue
RPM Signal


t10m/3
white/grey
Oil Pressure Switch

white/grey
Oil Pressure Switch


t10m/4
red
Post 30 connection (ECU Power)

red
Post 30 connection ECU Power powers fuse 229 in harnesss


t10m/5
brown/yellow
Ground Connection (Sensor ground)

brown/yellow
Ground Connection (Sensor ground)


t10m/6
empty


empty



t10m/7
blue/yellow
Coolant Level Switch

blue/yellow
Coolant Level Switch


t10m/8
red/blue
Fuel Pump Realy (trigger)

red/blue
Fuel Pump Realy (trigger)


t10m/9
blue/brown
Coolant Temp to dash

blue/brown
Coolant Temp to dash


t10m/10
brown/red
Speedometer Vehicle Speed Sensor

brown/red
Speedometer Vehicle Speed Sensor



t3aa/2 may need a 12v+ supply or it may not, I think it should be tied into the harness, but if it doesn't start or if you get codes for sensors I would start here.

brendontaylor
12-21-2016, 01:53 PM
So if I put an in line fuse attached to an accessory power (so it didn't get power until key was turned) this wire would essentially be connected the same way as it was in the 1.8?

Only difference I see from your write up is brown plug pin 2- there is no yellow /brown wire there in the 1.8 harness


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blitz2190
12-21-2016, 01:56 PM
yeah that one may or may not be there depending on the harness, it switched on 2001, the mil light will still work it just gets the signal from the canbus instead. and yes you can do that, 20 amp fuse switched from a relay connected to post 30 would probably be the easiest way.

brendontaylor
12-21-2016, 02:42 PM
Awesome, you're the best- I will post updates and pics


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brendontaylor
12-29-2016, 02:30 PM
So, It's all hooked up, and its not getting any fuel or a signal to the ecu through VCDS- It says my car is not ISO/OBD-II compatible.... Any ideas?

brendontaylor
12-29-2016, 05:04 PM
I am also getting a clicking under the hood when i crank it over- others have noted that this might be a relay of some sort?

-Clicking under hood when cranking
-can't find engine module in VCDS (or any other module associated with engine)
-no fuel to the engine

chris164935
12-29-2016, 10:26 PM
Did you check all the fuses in the fuse panel? Does T10M/4 connect to anything on the body plugs? That is the power wire to the ECU. Are the relays on the 1.8t harness that go under the ECU box plugged in? Any specific areas under the hood that you hear the clicking the loudest?

brendontaylor
12-30-2016, 08:42 AM
I did check the fuses, everything seems good, I'm going back now to check more stuff- got late last night, ran out of propane for my heater so I left....

In the earlier posts, my car was referenced as a "CAN" car with CAN connections that carried a lot of signals that the body plugs had as well- I was told not to worry about some of those wires, because the CAN had it covered.. my question is, if my car was CAN capable, wouldn't VCDS automatically find my car in the auto scan option?http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161230/7147b35d10fde1388e71ca66e900929e.jpg

Every time I scan my car, I have to go down the list and find my body type, because it can't figure it out on its own- so, this means I don't have that CAN connection, right? Now, I'm led to believe that I DO have to worry about those other wires? I'd have to go back and figure out which ones he mentioned, but now I'm a bit worried


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blitz2190
12-30-2016, 08:47 AM
other wires? the k-line and can wires are the only thing your pc uses to communicate with the car, as long as those are right and you have power its fine, that said I've never used the auto detect as I have a kkl only cable. Do you have the VCDS cable? also is it set correctly under the settings? and last can you open a module from the main screen once the cable it connected? I've never really used the autoscan I just go to each module individually. This being older it will rely on k-line for most things.

brendontaylor
12-30-2016, 10:20 AM
Other wires meaning the body plug wires- I do have the VCDS cable, set it up the way the instructions told me too and has always worked beautifully http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161230/4fb3ee65234cceffc01bad63b4b88fd9.jpg



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brendontaylor
12-30-2016, 10:22 AM
I can open up some modules, but nothing associated with the engine- worked on ABS, instrument cluster, and air bag system but the airbag system said no signal from ECU - bought a meter, checking for power to the ECU now


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brendontaylor
12-30-2016, 10:46 AM
I have 12 volts going to the ECU fuse in the ecu box (40 amp), but no power to fuse 29 (engine control unit)


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chris164935
12-30-2016, 10:55 AM
The 40 amp fuse is for the secondary air injection pump. On the 2.8 body harness, fuse 229 receives power from the fuel pump relay. With the key on, do get 12v then? If not, you're probably going to have to make your own little wire harness from connector T3AA/2 on the body plug side to fuse 229 and then from fuse 229 to connector T10AR/1 on the body plug side. Both of those wires will need to be 12-AWG.

brendontaylor
12-30-2016, 11:10 AM
Interesting- yea, no power with the key on- do you think I could just put in my own inline fuse in the ECU box or do I have to run it to the actual fuse box?


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chris164935
12-30-2016, 11:17 AM
If you have the body harness from the 1.8t, just de-pin the one 12-AWG wire that goes from T3AA/2 to fuse 229. Then, install that into the 2.8 body harness to fuse 229. The original wire going to fuse 229 from the fuel pump relay you can probably just tape the end and zip tie it away from any metal surfaces to prevent any issues. That would be the easiest way, in my opinion (you won't need any special tools for attaching the crimp pins to the wire, or have to waste time tracking down said crimp pins).

I just checked the wiring diagrams and the 2.8 body harness already has a 12-AWG wire going from fuse 229 to T10AR/1.

brendontaylor
12-30-2016, 11:19 AM
Awesome, thank you so much- I'll give it a shot


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brendontaylor
12-30-2016, 11:20 AM
Oh, do you think that will have anything to do with me not reading my ECU with VCDS?


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chris164935
12-30-2016, 11:29 AM
It could. T10AR/1 provides 12v to the ECU as well as the ignition coils on the 1.8t engine harness.

brendontaylor
12-30-2016, 11:48 AM
Beautiful


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brendontaylor
12-30-2016, 12:54 PM
I managed to connect T3aa/2 with T10ar/1 with a 20 amp fuse in the middle (I'll make it pretty when I know it works) but still didn't have power to the lines- I gave it power from the red wire on the black plug, and it turned my fuel pump on and kept it on even when I turned the key off...


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brendontaylor
12-30-2016, 12:56 PM
Gave it power from T10m/4


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brendontaylor
12-30-2016, 01:23 PM
Just thinking, where is the power coming from when it goes to the fuel pump relay and then on to fuse 229? I'm pretty sure I just gave it power from the wrong direction with T10m/4 - it didn't have power before hand, so if I gave it power from the right direction, I'm assuming the fuel relay would work properly and not constantly run my pump? Obviously I'm not proficient in car electronics, so I could be way off

Side note- I'm using an extra ECU in case I do something stupid and blow it


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brendontaylor
12-30-2016, 03:53 PM
Disregard last message, I'm an idiot- just getting confused, so many wires and connections, I'm losing it a little bit lol


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brendontaylor
12-30-2016, 08:49 PM
1. Does the ECU power supply relay (relay 30 in ECU box, 1.8 harness) only supply power to the red/grey wires (between fuse 229 and 15a fuse next to relay) when starting and running only? With key on, getting no juice to red/grey wires while still getting power to the relay from its power source... trying to figure out if the relay went

2. With fuse 229 pulled, and T3aa/2 (red/grey) connected to T10ar/1 (red/green) with an inline 20a fuse (same as fuse panel but not through fuse panel) there's no power to the fuel pump fuse, slot 228- doesn't make sense since fuel pump relay is getting power right from the battery, and the relay sends power to both 229 and 228- but when I jump power to T3aa/2 and T10ar/1 connection I made, fuel pump fuse 228 suddenly has power and the fuel pump stays on constantly, even though engine is not running (I think that was the root of my "reverse relay charge" comment earlier)

3. Fuel pump relay sends power to 229 coils in the 2.8, and 232 fuel injectors in the 1.8- it looks like they would both be receiving power on their own without me tampering, but I can't shake the feeling something is wrong with that situation

By the way, I never answered about the clicking under the hood- can't really pinpoint it, could be fuel relay just echoing through the plenum chamber since it's all opened up, didn't really hear it when I tried starting it with the fuel pump fully activated (when I crossed wires to power 229) so still kind of a mystery, didn't have an extra person today to hold the starter while I checked again- my gut feeling is that it was the fuel relay


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chris164935
12-30-2016, 11:31 PM
The problem right now is that the ECU is not getting power. Your fuel pump relay is triggered by the ECU. But, it can't trigger the fuel pump relay if it doesn't have power. The ECU for a 2.8 might be powered differently and that's why it can trigger the fuel pump but the 1.8t ECU cannot. So, first things first. Check the voltage of your battery. Set your multimeter to DC voltage and put the red lead to the positive terminal and the black lead to the negative terminal. You are looking for about 11-13v. If that is good, the next thing to do is put the red lead of your multimeter to T10m/4 on the body harness side. Then, ground the black lead (either to the chassis or the battery negative terminal, if it can reach). You should read the same voltage as what the battery was, does not matter if the ignition is on or off. If that is good, the next thing you need to do is turn the ignition on and put the red lead of your multimeter into T3AA/2 on the engine harness side (you can do this with the connector unplugged, just want to test for voltage). Then, ground the black lead. If you do not get battery voltage, then the relay is bad. Order a new relay based on the full part #. If it does read battery voltage, then you should be able to go back and install the wiring from T3AA/2 to a fuse and then to T10AR/1.

brendontaylor
12-31-2016, 07:40 AM
Guess the relay is bad, had no power to t3aa2 with the key on- I jumped the power underneath the relay to t3aa2 whiles fused with t10ar1, so everything had power but still no luck with ECU communication- t10m4 has power as well.... with t10ar1 and t10m4 both powered, shouldn't I have access to ECU? Is this a com line issue and not a power issue, or am I missing another power source to the ECU?


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blitz2190
12-31-2016, 10:09 AM
How about engine harness grounds on the firewall

b6Hate4
12-31-2016, 10:24 AM
I can say for sure there is a difference in how the 1.8t and 2.8 ECU/ FPR are powered, the DIY B5 V8 swap guide on Motorgeek goes over this.

brendontaylor
12-31-2016, 11:08 AM
Grounds are intact- I have power to post 30, and also power to t3aa2 + t10ar1 when I jump the bad relay- still no communication with the ECU


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brendontaylor
12-31-2016, 11:59 AM
Posts 17 and 19 both have power in the fuel pump relay, relay trigger wire has 8 volts at the body plug


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brendontaylor
12-31-2016, 11:59 AM
T10m8


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brendontaylor
12-31-2016, 12:07 PM
All the wires in the ECU power relay (30 next to ECU) are hot except the red/grey wires


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brendontaylor
12-31-2016, 12:10 PM
Hey blitz, can you elaborate on t10ar4? What is "plus connection 15"?


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brendontaylor
12-31-2016, 12:34 PM
Fuse 234 does not have power (supplied from post 20 on fuel relay I believe)
Tried both relays I have, no change


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blitz2190
01-03-2017, 09:07 AM
Hey blitz, can you elaborate on t10ar4? What is "plus connection 15"?


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its the common plus connection on the chassis side harness under the dash, and after looking again it needs power, looking at the 2.8 wiring it seems you should be able to tie it to T10ar/5 with the injectors. that should get your ecu power and everything going.


Posts 17 and 19 both have power in the fuel pump relay, relay trigger wire has 8 volts at the body plug


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should be 12V, hows the battery, I would throw a charger on it while doing all this testing.

brendontaylor
01-03-2017, 06:03 PM
Awesome, I'll have to give it a try on Thursday when I get back home- battery is new, been cranking it a bit here and there, but it's reading 11.89 volts- I wonder why the trigger wire is only reading 8.... do you think that only having 8 would prevent the fuel relay from triggering?


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blitz2190
01-04-2017, 07:11 AM
Awesome, I'll have to give it a try on Thursday when I get back home- battery is new, been cranking it a bit here and there, but it's reading 11.89 volts- I wonder why the trigger wire is only reading 8.... do you think that only having 8 would prevent the fuel relay from triggering?


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It shouldn't as most auto relays will trigger as low as 5volts, but it could also be do to the ecu not being powered at pin 3(t10ar/4).

brendontaylor
01-06-2017, 07:23 PM
So, we have communication with the ECU!! Hot dang, one step closer- VCDS is throwing codes for fuel injectors (they have power at the injectors) missing signal from instrument cluster, and the fuel pump is still not getting juice at the fuse 228


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blitz2190
01-06-2017, 07:44 PM
what codes? sounds like a ground issue possibly.

brendontaylor
01-06-2017, 08:06 PM
Actually scratch that, no codes for injectors- code for power train data bus, missing message from instrument cluster


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brendontaylor
01-06-2017, 10:53 PM
Error when trying to do adaptation for the throttle body too...http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170107/5452011ce01d11dc9f8aacec8370ac2e.jpg

These are the codes coming up
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170107/c7bbadb922df924393b4f1cbc93dee1d.jpg


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blitz2190
01-07-2017, 11:05 AM
I would start with checking power at the throttle body then if that checks out take it of and clean it and make sure the valve can move the full range as the sensors look like they are reading right. The instrument cluster may just need to be coded to a b5 a4 which can be done with vcds.

brendontaylor
01-07-2017, 11:47 AM
It's weird, I can access and do output tests on the dash and there seems to be no problem- cant access the immobilizer or CAN gateway either... should I be able to have access to the CAN gateway?


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brendontaylor
01-07-2017, 11:48 AM
And it still says that the can is not ready when I do the initial USB port test


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blitz2190
01-07-2017, 12:29 PM
What cable do you have? Is it the one that does can only or kline as well, these older cars need kline for some things. Also i thought that b5 did not have an immo just the euro s4/rs4

brendontaylor
01-07-2017, 02:06 PM
Oh, not 100%sure about immo, I just thought I heard somewhere I had it- the cable was brand new this last year, does it all I'm pretty sure- couple pages back there's a pic of me doing the port test, does it tell you on that?


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brendontaylor
01-07-2017, 02:13 PM
I paid 350 for the kit, if that helps narrow it down


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blitz2190
01-07-2017, 03:56 PM
Forgot to mention that some adaptations require no codes to be present, you should start with the cluster coding, 07244 should be right, but write down whats there first just in case, code the cluster shut off the key once that is done, the turn the key on clear the codes, turn the key off, then try your adaptation.

brendontaylor
01-10-2017, 07:19 AM
So, I managed to get the other codes cleared, but it's still throwing a code for the throttle body (shows right back up after I clear it) and when I try to do the adaptation for the throttle body, it says ERROR in the far right box.... is this possibly an issue with the body plug wires? Is the gas pedal different and do I need the 1.8 pedal?


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brendontaylor
01-10-2017, 07:20 AM
Im so close- getting spark, injectors work, communication with most controllers....


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blitz2190
01-10-2017, 07:32 AM
So, I managed to get the other codes cleared, but it's still throwing a code for the throttle body (shows right back up after I clear it) and when I try to do the adaptation for the throttle body, it says ERROR in the far right box.... is this possibly an issue with the body plug wires? Is the gas pedal different and do I need the 1.8 pedal?


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gas pedal is the same, did you clear the codes then adapt without turning the key off? have you checked power at the throttle body? is it possibly jammed from sitting, can you manually move it when powered off?

brendontaylor
01-10-2017, 07:33 AM
Yup- literally as soon as I clear the code, it comes right back immediately


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blitz2190
01-10-2017, 07:34 AM
Yup- literally as soon as I clear the code, it comes right back immediately


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updated my post as soon as you replied
see the other questions

brendontaylor
01-10-2017, 07:36 AM
I'll get back to you in a few


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brendontaylor
01-10-2017, 07:51 AM
With the key on, I'm getting 5v on one pin, 4mv on another, and 2mv on anotherhttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170110/c485ea4bb258944525ac1b97b06dc038.jpg

The pin in the pic is the one with 5v


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brendontaylor
01-10-2017, 07:52 AM
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170110/6d541ac2f23b2297c4023e7ef0acb56f.jpg

4mv


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brendontaylor
01-10-2017, 07:53 AM
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170110/ff398ec1c39d1582e39959a1ca1b7454.jpg

2.2mv


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brendontaylor
01-10-2017, 08:00 AM
The flap seems like it's a little stiff, but I'm not sure how stiff it's supposed to be – I can move it though, so it's not seized


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blitz2190
01-10-2017, 08:14 AM
that should be fine, check vcds for pedal position I believe measuring block 62, then if that checks out try following the rosstech guide http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/Throttle_Body_Alignment_(TBA)

brendontaylor
01-10-2017, 08:23 AM
Still error in the TBA, here's the group 62 https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170110/bf369bc5585cb38b8e55a2e7bf226a0b.jpg

And now I'm getting a different dtc that still comes right back after I clear it
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170110/cfb9709b2f450971dfcee5e15a306f88.jpg

Here's my attempt to do the TBA
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170110/90e38d6acf54b2db8b2e1b354a31d169.jpg



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blitz2190
01-10-2017, 08:26 AM
put your car on a charger, and do it again, I think with all you've been doing the battery is too low, thats the only cause for that code. http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/17972/P1564/005476 do you have a full charger, one that can do a jump start?

brendontaylor
01-10-2017, 08:27 AM
The battery has been on the charger, it's right at 12 V


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blitz2190
01-10-2017, 08:28 AM
The battery has been on the charger, it's right at 12 V


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attach the charger and do it again with it on. and see if that helps

brendontaylor
01-10-2017, 08:28 AM
Dammit, never mind – the battery was at 12 V earlier… I think my charger is messing up, I'll get back to you


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brendontaylor
01-10-2017, 08:44 AM
Still getting error


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blitz2190
01-10-2017, 10:02 AM
Still getting error


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with the charger on whats the voltage, the only time I've seen this have an error is when voltage is to low, also you should check the voltage when doing the test as it may say 12v+ when not under a load but change when drawing current. I typically use a large charger that has multiple settings including one for a jump start, set on medium so it reads about 12.8 when on. A small trickle charger won't work, if using that you would need to let it charge the battery for at least a few hours to up to overnight. Then I would try it with the charger still connected, Short of that its a bad throttle body as the motor is supplied by the ecu so as long as the ecu has power it should work, also that second code with power too low definitely leads me to believe this is a power related issue.

brendontaylor
01-10-2017, 10:09 AM
Yea, that power code went away when the voltage went up to 11.5v- I still don't have 12 v, so I'm going to hook it up to an actual vehicle later tonight. When I tested group 62 for throttle position, I moved the flap and got a response so I know both sensors are working... with proper voltage, and both sensors working, if I get error again would that possibly be a wire somewhere or is it definitely a bad throttle body?


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brendontaylor
01-16-2017, 08:16 AM
Great news guys, she's running! I can't thank you enough for all the help you gave me, I really appreciate all the work you put into it. In the next couple days, I will do a full write up with some pictures for everything that is needed for this specific job. I do however, have a couple little minor things… I'm still A little confused as to how I should code the instrument cluster, because if I want the RPMs to match and some buzzers to not go off, I have to use the dashboard from the 1.8-The only thing is, with the 1.8 dashboard in, I have fault codes with my airbag system… If I have the 2.8 dashboard in there is no faults with the airbag system, but like I said the RPMs are off and it keeps telling me I have brake lights out and other bulbs are burnt as well, even though everything is working properly. I really want to keep the 2.8 cluster, because it has the accurate mileage for the body of the vehicle-any insight on this subject would be greatly appreciated


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blitz2190
01-16-2017, 03:54 PM
good to hear, for the coding part under instrument cluster in vcds there should be a soft coding number, write this down just in case, and then under coding or recoding, enter the new number which should be 07244 for your car. taken from here http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/Audi_A4_(8D)_Instrument_Cluster

brendontaylor
01-17-2017, 06:41 PM
I did try that code, but nothing changed- where are you getting the "07" from for the first 2 digits?


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blitz2190
01-17-2017, 07:09 PM
from that link in my last post, you add the options to get the digits shown by the ??. what was the original code? you may have to login with that.

brendontaylor
01-17-2017, 08:31 PM
Yea, the last 3 digits make sense... I have it written down in the garage where I do my work, so I'll have to check it in the morning when I get there- is there another page that includes other codes along with the 07 for the first 2 digits? Just wondering where the 07 came from, because it's not in that link you sent...


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blitz2190
01-17-2017, 08:37 PM
Yea, the last 3 digits make sense... I have it written down in the garage where I do my work, so I'll have to check it in the morning when I get there- is there another page that includes other codes along with the 07 for the first 2 digits? Just wondering where the 07 came from, because it's not in that link you sent...


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my bad i was doing the math for the 1999 yours would be 02244 or 00244 if you dont want the seatbelt warning.

brendontaylor
01-17-2017, 10:19 PM
Now that I think of it, the 2.8 dash has always given me a warning for brake lights and washer fluid- think I should do 04244?


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brendontaylor
01-17-2017, 10:20 PM
Crap, that was for 1999 or older


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