C5 RS6 Headlight HID - LED Retrofit DIY

[1965truckrod]

Hello folks,

My name is Jesse and I am one of the Admins for San Diego Audi Club. I also happen to be pretty handy with a wrench and have been working on quite a few of our groups cars. The biggest project thus far is one of our members who owns a 2003 Audi C5 RS6. This originally was going to be just a timing belt change, but ended up doing a few additional mods including larger side mount intercoolers, Forge 008 Diverter Valves, engine bay cleaning, cylinder head repair, Gauges and associated pod and the topic of this thread which is removing the old dim HID assemblies and replacing them with LED's. The LED's in this DIY were sourced from DDM tuning. They are a fairly well known manufacturer here in San Diego and I would imagine they have a presence on this forum as well. As most of you know, the C5 headlight assemblies with OEM HID use the D2S bulb. DDM uses Saber/ Cree LED's and from my personal experience are very well built and have better output then your basic 35 watt HID or OEM HID. You also have zero charge up, so they are instant on, longer life, and not as much wiring to hide. So here we go:

We need to first start off by removing the OEM HID ballast which is outside of the headlight assembly. There is a Torx bit which secures the strap around the ballast. Once the screw is removed, you need to slide the strap and the ballast towards the rear of the assembly to free it from it's securing position.

http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd223/chevellessls6502/C5%20RS6%20Headlights/20161213_202625_zps4mjimsmf.jpg
http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd223/chevellessls6502/C5%20RS6%20Headlights/20161213_202708_zpscjznzaka.jpg
Once that is done, we need to disconnect the ballast from the headlight and get the high voltage side off the headlight. Pretty straight forward here, remove the signal wire from the ballast.
http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd223/chevellessls6502/C5%20RS6%20Headlights/20161213_202739_zpshbfr7zpl.jpg

Now we need to get the rest of the wire out of the headlight, this is going to require we remove the back plate. I found that removing the retaining bars with a screw driver helps a bit. Also I removed one of the retaining bars so it wasn't in the way while I was rooting around inside.

http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd223/chevellessls6502/C5%20RS6%20Headlights/20161213_202802_zpsbh7iquox.jpg
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Once you have the cover off, this will expose the connector attached to the HID bulb. Some of these need a 1/4 turn some of them you can just pull right off. Once you have it off, you'll need to pop the cover that the high voltage wire goes through. These can be pretty stiff so best if you use a small blade screw driver to assist you with the tangs.

http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd223/chevellessls6502/C5%20RS6%20Headlights/20161213_202902_zpsixoac5dx.jpg
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http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd223/chevellessls6502/C5%20RS6%20Headlights/20161213_203103_zpshj80pckm.jpg

Since we have a big ole hole in this cover now that the high voltage wire is removed. I used a vacuum plug to seal up the hole. It fits nice and snug and will keep moisture and dirt from getting inside the interior of the headlight. Make sure the seal around the cover is not twisted and pop it back in. This takes care of one of the holes.

http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd223/chevellessls6502/C5%20RS6%20Headlights/20161213_203825_zpsfriqh89z.jpg
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http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd223/chevellessls6502/C5%20RS6%20Headlights/20161213_203939_zpsulkruxdb.jpg

Now it's time to deal with the retrofit part, although the LED kit says D2S on the website, the kid said D2, not sure if there is any difference, but I can tell you that the alignment holes did not line up, and required a new one be cut to seat properly on the bulb perch. As you can see this LED has a removable mounting plate, which makes it easier to modify, and remove the bulb without dealing with the locking ring. We'll need to cut it until it fits flush with the seat, then we can secure the plate with the locking ring and install the bulb. I'll remove the bulb afterwards as it will be in the way for further steps.

http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd223/chevellessls6502/C5%20RS6%20Headlights/20161213_204029_zps2rdwopsz.jpg
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Since I am limited to 30 photos per post. I'll add the additional steps on a reply.

[1965truckrod]

Now we need to address the source wire and it's cover. In order to do this, it's best to pop the cover into the assembly, then remove the plastic parts of the plug, and unpin the plugs so you can put it through the hole. The unpinning part isn't necessary to complete this, but it makes things much easier. Once this is done, push the entire wire, pins first and then pull the wire around the projector assembly so you can pull it out to expose the entire wire.

http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd223/chevellessls6502/C5%20RS6%20Headlights/20161213_210952_zpsfwu9r0h1.jpg
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http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd223/chevellessls6502/C5%20RS6%20Headlights/20161213_211920_zpszkuub3ty.jpg

Now its time to cut off the excess wire along with getting access to the cover, so it can be sealed up and the wiring splicing can begin between the source wire, and the continuity switching harness and box. Since we are putting this cover back on from the outside, I trimmed one of the side edges so it fit snug and sealed properly. Once again, make sure the o-ring is not twisted and pop the cover back in. To seal this, I pushed the remaining wire shielding back inside the hole and then epoxied it for a tight seal. Next it's onto splicing everything together.

http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd223/chevellessls6502/C5%20RS6%20Headlights/20161213_211951_zpswyzj64e1.jpg
http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd223/chevellessls6502/C5%20RS6%20Headlights/20161213_212010_zpsk2iiizfv.jpg
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http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd223/chevellessls6502/C5%20RS6%20Headlights/20161213_212425_zpsgrkfqzsu.jpg

Now that we have a section of the source wire's available, we need to strip the ends, use a pair of crimps that have been removed from their shielding, some shrink wrap, and some patients. As you can see from the pictures below, you need to cut the splices free of the shielding, do this with caution, don't want to cut anything off. I put them in a pair of pliers while I made the cuts with my razor blade. Get the source wire in as much as you can, crimp it down, then the continuity harness wire in. Once they are both crimped down and look like they both got the crimp, move the heat shrink over them and heat them up. This will provide a nice clean job and will have a long life without any connection issues down the road.

http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd223/chevellessls6502/C5%20RS6%20Headlights/20161213_212456_zpsrvz3jy0c.jpg
http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd223/chevellessls6502/C5%20RS6%20Headlights/20161213_212512_zpszfnblx1a.jpg
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Now that the harness is in place, I can re-seat the LED bulb assembly back into the projector and connect the harness to the LED assembly. Since the continuity box is so small. I decided to zip tie it inside the headlight so it has a seamless exterior and no wires hanging out.

http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd223/chevellessls6502/C5%20RS6%20Headlights/20161213_215740_zpsvvglqd5w.jpg
http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd223/chevellessls6502/C5%20RS6%20Headlights/20161213_220252_zpsjai1i95m.jpg
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http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd223/chevellessls6502/C5%20RS6%20Headlights/20161213_220355_zpsuhnahrcu.jpg

More to come on final steps.

[1965truckrod]

Since this LED requires a fan to keep the heatsink cool, I needed to give it some breathing room, I made some vertical lines on the cover and used a 3/16" drill bit and made 9 holes right in front of where the fan is. This will provide enough ventilation, but also not that big of a space for moisture to get in. Granted there will be some, but not as much as if we left all of the covers open.

http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd223/chevellessls6502/C5%20RS6%20Headlights/20161213_220830_zpsvcb4hwgl.jpg
http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd223/chevellessls6502/C5%20RS6%20Headlights/20161213_220842_zpsuvflfjl5.jpg
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http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd223/chevellessls6502/C5%20RS6%20Headlights/20161213_221420_zpsim2ldib9.jpg

So we got all of the internal wires and parts sorted, time to put the covers back on. Re-attach the retaining bar, and we are all done. The following photos are close ups, better lighting, and before and after photos of the headlight assemblies together. I'd say they are much cleaner, don't have any wires exposed, and will be easier to put back into the car once this time comes to do so.

http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd223/chevellessls6502/C5%20RS6%20Headlights/20161213_221440_zpstvmhmqpt.jpg
http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd223/chevellessls6502/C5%20RS6%20Headlights/20161213_221446_zpslsf7ylfb.jpg
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http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd223/chevellessls6502/C5%20RS6%20Headlights/20161213_222904_zpsx6dnta2c.jpg

Before the Modification

http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd223/chevellessls6502/C5%20RS6%20Headlights/15491844_10154137152353161_1103511683_o_zps0jbcgo7 e.jpg
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http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd223/chevellessls6502/C5%20RS6%20Headlights/20161213_222932_zpsrbvkiitm.jpg

Some of you may be asking what these look like as far as output from the headlights and so forth. I'll have some updated photos once the car is back on the ground and running again.

Hopefully this will perhaps inspire others to do the same thing. This applies to a lot of the modular Audi headlights so it's not just C5 specific, you would do essentially the same steps on any headlight assembly if you are retrofitting LED's in place of OEM HID's.

Jesse F. Van Wickel IV

[mr_dave]

Some of you may be asking what these look like as far as output from the headlights and so forth.

The projector lens is designed to take a very small point of light from a precise location (arc from the HID bulb) and evenly spread it out into a specific light pattern in front of the vehicle. I'd be shocked if a differently shaped light source in a different location (LED bulb) would even produce something that's usable.

You also drilled holes in a housing that was water-sealed, so I'd be willing to bet you're going to have some condensation issues now.

Sorry to be debbie downer...

[1965truckrod]

The projector lens is designed to take a very small point of light from a precise location (arc from the HID bulb) and evenly spread it out into a specific light pattern in front of the vehicle. I'd be shocked if a differently shaped light source in a different location (LED bulb) would even produce something that's usable.

You also drilled holes in a housing that was water-sealed, so I'd be willing to bet you're going to have some condensation issues now.

Sorry to be debbie downer...

I've been using these bulbs in all kind of projectors, including B7 A4's, VW GTi's, B8 A4's, etc. The direction of the bulb can be adjusted if necessary. I'm not a newb when it comes to headlight modifications and I can assure you this is far brighter than OEM. I also mentioned that I realize the holes are there, it's so I don't cook the fan and bulb that my client just spent money on. As I have stated, I've done this before, but wanted to offer a step by step for other folks to follow.

Have a nice day Debbie.

[alien_brain]

same thoughts here

[Nemesis2747]

Ive wanted to do something like this but went with 55 watt ballasts and clear projector lenses. How did u get the igniter out of that plastic cap?

[ChicagosPhantom]

The projector lens is designed to take a very small point of light from a precise location (arc from the HID bulb) and evenly spread it out into a specific light pattern in front of the vehicle. I'd be shocked if a differently shaped light source in a different location (LED bulb) would even produce something that's usable.

You also drilled holes in a housing that was water-sealed, so I'd be willing to bet you're going to have some condensation issues now.

Sorry to be debbie downer...
Exactly my thoughts, but let's see if it's worth it.

[bpark1210]

I'd like to see some pics of the LEDS at work in night conditions [:)]

and I applaud your ingenuity [wrench]

[V1nny]

I did same mode last year, with better LED, and after few month tried another LED, and then reverted back to HID due to projector focus issues. Left LED in high beams and love it. At least I did not mutilate my covers by drilling them. Hope no one in the right mind is going to do this to their headlights.
I do recommend LED's for high beams, but make sure you get ones with flexible braided heatsinks and no fans.
To be fair, our headlights (at least on allroad) are not completely sealed, they do have several small breathers covered with short curved rubber hoses to minimize chance of water getting in.

[alien_brain]

vinny got pics of the LEDs at night?

[V1nny]

no, pictures do not mean anything, too many variables to make meaningful conclusions: camera, how dark is outside, color/reflectivity of the surface on which you direct your lights, distance. Do no trust any picture, unless it has side by side two different light sources, with everything else equal.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/H7-CREE-LED-Light-Headlight-60W-6400LM-Vehicle-Car-Hi-Beam-Bulbs-6000k-White-82-/282294871442

I have these in my high beams and my allroad fog lights, great for high beams, overkill for fog lights, still looks cool. Note no fans, flexible heatsinks, this is the only way to go in our headlights.

[Grainreaper]

no, pictures do not mean anything, too many variables to make meaningful conclusions: camera, how dark is outside, color/reflectivity of the surface on which you direct your lights, distance. Do no trust any picture, unless it has side by side two different light sources, with everything else equal.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/H7-CREE-LED-Light-Headlight-60W-6400LM-Vehicle-Car-Hi-Beam-Bulbs-6000k-White-82-/282294871442

I have these in my high beams and my allroad fog lights, great for high beams, overkill for fog lights, still looks cool. Note no fans, flexible heatsinks, this is the only way to go in our headlights.

I'm thinking I might get some H7s and H3s, I do a good bit of night driving in the north woods, I use my high beams a lot, and any improvement in the fogs is welcomed as well, thanks for the link!

[alien_brain]

no, pictures do not mean anything, too many variables to make meaningful conclusions: camera, how dark is outside, color/reflectivity of the surface on which you direct your lights, distance. Do no trust any picture, unless it has side by side two different light sources, with everything else equal.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/H7-CREE-LED-Light-Headlight-60W-6400LM-Vehicle-Car-Hi-Beam-Bulbs-6000k-White-82-/282294871442

I have these in my high beams and my allroad fog lights, great for high beams, overkill for fog lights, still looks cool. Note no fans, flexible heatsinks, this is the only way to go in our headlights.

would you please show us the job you did... what the methods you used were, how the housing looks with the heatsink etc. i bought those a while ago after reading that you did it to your fogs. y ou did a lot of trimming and waterproofing i assume. can we see the details please? i would love a look. thanks! [up]

[mbagge01]

I just went with led in my fog lights and they look much better and brighter than the HID setup I had, which I believe is due due to the way the housing is setup for halogen and projects a led better than an HID bulb.