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NickW3
09-23-2016, 02:14 PM
hey everyone, my awm b5 has a stage 2 tune on it, 22psi peek. Made by kompressed. Just put new plugs in (bkr6e .028), coilpacks are all good, and last time it was checked on vag-com (a month ago when it was tuned), there was no codes besides having no map sensor in. Map is in now and it runs great no CEL or codes. However, under load, about 12psi+ it breaks up a lot. It runs great besides then. I know usually breaking up under boost is because of plugs gapped wrong, but i just put new ones in today. Thought putting new plugs in would help the prob but its the same as it was before. Any idea what it could be? RPM sensor? MAF?
Thanks for any input!

czum09
09-24-2016, 04:50 AM
I personally run the Bkr7e. And I actually gap mine slightly tighter.

PringlesInVic
09-24-2016, 09:09 AM
Have you done the ICM delete? Any oil on plugs or in holes?

I was having a similar issue with Bkr7e's at .036 I think, then gapped them down to 0.028 and it smoothed out.

Try gapping them down a bit and see if it helps.

NickW3
09-24-2016, 10:49 AM
I personally run the Bkr7e. And I actually gap mine slightly tighter.
i didn't know about going colder plugs, cause I'm still ko3. And you gap tighter than .028??


Have you done the ICM delete? Any oil on plugs or in holes?

I was having a similar issue with Bkr7e's at .036 I think, then gapped them down to 0.028 and it smoothed out.

Try gapping them down a bit and see if it helps.
no ICM's on an awm, built into the coils. They're the push in coils. And no oil. Ill test out different gaps and if that doesn't help then ill try a step colder and different gaps. They're cheap enough and easy enough to switch out for testing

czum09
09-24-2016, 01:49 PM
Mine are gapped to .024. It is recommended to use the colder plugs on any tuned A4.

Seerlah
09-24-2016, 02:15 PM
6E stock, 7E tuned in relation to NGK plugs. Purchase Bosch F6DTC plugs. They last roughly 25k before needing replacement, 3 prong, and require no gapping, and just a better plug. Ran this plug on flashed ECU for stock turbo when I had that setup.

NickW3
09-24-2016, 08:41 PM
6E stock, 7E tuned in relation to NGK plugs. Purchase Bosch F6DTC plugs. They last roughly 25k before needing replacement, 3 prong, and require no gapping, and just a better plug. Ran this plug on flashed ECU for stock turbo when I had that setup.
I've seen a lot of people running the 6E with a .028 with the same setup as mine. Heard the 7E wasn't necessary, but ill have to try them. Might go bosch also. Plugs are cheap so i might try a few different sets with different gaps and see what it likes best. Thanks!

Believer
09-25-2016, 06:16 AM
I've seen a lot of people running the 6E with a .028 with the same setup as mine. Heard the 7E wasn't necessary, but ill have to try them. Might go bosch also. Plugs are cheap so i might try a few different sets with different gaps and see what it likes best. Thanks!
One step colder in theory is what elevated boost applications should run. It keeps the cylinder temperatures in check with the increased boost levels.

For gap, there is no set gap you should run. You want to run the largest gap you can without experiencing misses. If you miss, close it down some which is probably why the one fella is running .024.

I second the Bosch plugs though. They really are superior for preventing spark blow out with the tri electrode and last considerably longer than the NGKs.

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NickW3
10-07-2016, 08:17 PM
I've tried everyone's suggestions and I've tried every gap under the sun lol and am currently running 7E's. None of the plugs or gaps changed anything noticeable, still breaks up at the same boost in any gear. It's not even just a miss, it's more like a rolling 2-step. Think it could be a bad coil or the coil harness causing this? Like I said it's fine anywhere under ~12psi. Thanks in advance


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czum09
10-08-2016, 05:45 AM
It could be a coil. Or it could be a vac leak. I actually bought the F6DTC plugs, noticed a huge difference. I'm running them from here on out.

NickW3
10-08-2016, 11:10 AM
I was thinking vac leak too, but I'm at ~19 inches at idle so it seems fine. Maybe I'll try those plugs too


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Believer
10-08-2016, 01:02 PM
So you mentioned there were no codes, does the check engine light flash when you are breaking up? If so it should record a DTC that you can read with VCDS and share.

Do you have the ability to data log it? I would like to see separate logs (to keep logging rate up) of boost req, actual and n75 duty cycle vs rpm, knock voltages vs rpm, ignition angle vs rpm and injector duty cycle vs rpm.

NickW3
10-08-2016, 03:30 PM
So you mentioned there were no codes, does the check engine light flash when you are breaking up? If so it should record a DTC that you can read with VCDS and share.

Do you have the ability to data log it? I would like to see separate logs (to keep logging rate up) of boost req, actual and n75 duty cycle vs rpm, knock voltages vs rpm, ignition angle vs rpm and injector duty cycle vs rpm.i wish i could data log, but i don't have vagcom. I've been meaning to get it for a while but other things have come up. And it doesn't flash, it did one time, the first time i tested the new tune, but besides for that it doesn't.
I just noticed it does idle a little rough, when you listen closely. About every 5 seconds there's a miss, just like a stutter. And also since i got the tune, it's hard to drive normal. At 2050rpm it slams higher in rpm. No matter how much throttle i give it, it feels like it slams into boost even though it won't be in boost, and then over 2050 rpm its responsive and normal. Under that rpm the engine is a dog and feels like a constant bogging state. Thought it was just the tune causing it to do this, vtec type thing. Maybe a bad n75?
ill try to get the cheap vcds cable and free software soon so i can figure these things out myself lol

Seerlah
10-08-2016, 04:25 PM
You can download the Torque app and pick up an obd2 bluetooth reader. Pay the money for the full version of the app, and it would be easier to help. You can datalog as well as checking for dtcs (and other features). Will cost like $15 all said and done.

I run Maestro but use this most times. Got a cel tonight (has been a while) and will just use this app to see what it is and then clear it.

NickW3
10-08-2016, 06:26 PM
You can download the Torque app and pick up an obd2 bluetooth reader. Pay the money for the full version of the app, and it would be easier to help. You can datalog as well as checking for dtcs (and other features). Will cost like $15 all said and done.

I run Maestro but use this most times. Got a cel tonight (has been a while) and will just use this app to see what it is and then clear it.

Thanks a lot! I'll look into that. It doesn't have all the features as vcds, but it's basically just a code reader?
And what was the exact app you bought?


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Seerlah
10-09-2016, 03:05 PM
Not all the features, but is also more than a fault code scanner. You can datalog certain things, get estimated hp using weight of car and speed via gps, and other stuff. Name of app is Torque. Then you pay for the full version.

https://s22.postimg.org/cnryxqhtt/Screenshot_2016_10_09_18_14_51.png

NickW3
10-09-2016, 06:09 PM
Not all the features, but is also more than a fault code scanner. You can datalog certain things, get estimated hp using weight of car and speed via gps, and other stuff. Name of app is Torque. Then you pay for the full version.

https://s22.postimg.org/cnryxqhtt/Screenshot_2016_10_09_18_14_51.png
thanks! ill be sure to get the app. Probably vagcom too because I've wanted (needed) it for a while lol