Two Different Types of Bolts Used on Lower Control Arms

[arjun90]

(1)

Lower Control Arm Bolt
Secures the lower control arm to the subframe. M12x1.5x120x80
This is the bolt used to hold the lower curved control arm to the subframe.
N90625902
https://c1552172.ssl.cf0.rackcdn.com/123666_x600.jpg

(2)

Lower Control Arm Bolt - Priced Each
Secures the lower control arm to the subframe. M12x1.5x100
This is the bolt used to hold the lower straight control arm to the subframe.
N10294901
https://c1552172.ssl.cf0.rackcdn.com/42414_x600.jpg


Which one is for the Curved Lower Control Arm and which one is for the Straight Lower Control Arm? I think ECS has it the other way around on their website. Can anyone confirm?
I didn't have adequate lighting, but I believe the bolt that came out of my curved arm was the one which was fully-threaded with a light coating of loctite (if I'm not mistaken).

EDIT: ECS Tuning was Correct All-along! Thanks ECS Tuning [:D] [wrench]

Thanks

[glennda5id]

I'm not in front of a computer but can't you measure? One bolt is 20mm longer. I assume it's for the curved arm which has the wider bushing. Measure the width of the subframe opening. Do you have the other side apart? Check there as well.

[arjun90]

I'll have to check, most likely a mechanic in the past may have replaced the lower control arms before. It's really hard to tell. I know the struts and upper controls arms have never been changed before because the retaining tab (which needs to be pried off prior to getting strut tower removed from vehicle) was still present.



I'm not in front of a computer but can't you measure? One bolt is 20mm longer. I assume it's for the curved arm which has the wider bushing. Measure the width of the subframe opening. Do you have the other side apart? Check there as well.

[arjun90]

It appears I installed the wrong bolt on the lower curved control arm. I'll go ahead and replace it with the correct one.

[solipsvs]

what was it doing? rattling? clunking?

[arjun90]

It would explain why it was initially difficult to come out; I had to use a crowfoot to get a better grip on this fastener. It appears the previous owner had a mechanic who wasn't following spec. Its been corrected now.


what was it doing? rattling? clunking?

[arjun90]

One thing I'll like to clear up for everyone is that never use antiseize on your suspension components "except" for the upper control arms's pinch bolt and locking nut on your outer tie rod otherwise torque will be off. [;)][wrench]

I've come across several threads, not Audizine-specific, where others recommend the use of antiseize on the lower control arm ball joints, and other CA bolts. Antiseize is not suited for those applications. [:)]

[CJKaz]

Not exactly correct. From my post on a different forum:

The torque required for a bolted joint design comes from a long string of calculations, but boils down to a simple equation.

T = Wp x K x dn
Where T=torque; Wp=fastener preload; K=torque coeff; dn=diameter

The factor that changes with dry vs lubricated fasteners is the "torque coefficient" and is published for a variety of cases. Various values exist, mine are taken from DuPont Engineering Specification (10 pages of calcs). Examples:

Dry steel fasteners: K=0.20
Lightly oiled steel: K=0.15
Cad Plated: K=0.14
Anti Seize on steel: K=0.13 (as published by Bostik for their Never Seez products)
Graphite & mineral oil: K=0.10

Using Never Seize versus dry uncoated steel, multiply the specified torque by 0.65.

A very light coating on the threads only to prevent corrosion and/or galling is all that's needed. As is the case with most Anti Seize applications, a little goes a long way.