A7 Stage 2 and intake charge temp

[SlickMachine]

APR stage 2 3.0T.
The last several weeks have been 90°+ here in humid northeast Ohio. I'm noticing a good drop off in power at higher rpm in this hot weather which I think is safe to assume is caused by very hot charge temps at higher boost...engine senses this and retards timing or opens bypass valve, or whatever it does to prevent detonation. I know there is an intercooler upgrade for the S4/5 from APR that separates out the intercooler from the engines cooling system and gives it its own heat exchanger. Anyone know if there is a kit available for us on the A6/7 anywhere? How about anyone that has pieces together a system themselves? I haven't been able to find anything.

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[14S4GWM]

Theres 4 or 5 now for the S4. Look around, apr is coming out with a new one in a bit.

[LINDW4LL]

While I haven't heard of it being done on any C7 cars, I'd guess the B8 S4 kits would fit your A7 with little to no modification. I know people have installed the S4/S5 kits on the Q5 3.0T without issue.

AWE and AMS both offer full kits, or there is a company called PLM that sells an upgraded heat exchanger alone for $895. http://www.ebay.com/itm/PLM-Audi-S4-S5-B8-Heat-Exchanger-Cooling-Kit-Engine-Coolant-Performance-A4-/262103620810?_trksid=p2141725.m3641.l6368

The stock heat exchanger is puny so even just the larger heat exchanger (without an upgraded pump) has a nice effect.

https://www.goapr.com/includes/img/products/cps_b8_30tfsi_radiator_compare.jpg

[tenspeed]

Here's a intercooler DIY thread - http://www.audiworld.com/forums/a6-c7-platform-discussion-194/inexpensive-intercooler-improvement-experiment-diy-2892751/

[ntsantos]

Tons of posts on this from the B8 S4 thread. I personally don't think the big name brand kits are worth the money. You could piece together the same thing for about $300, versus the $800-1800 the name brands charge, with the same performance.

After a lot of research myself, the only aftermarket cooling solution I would think is worth the money would be a Killer Chiller setup. The supercharged muscle car guys have been doing for a while getting 20*C IATs in 100 deg weather.

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[SlickMachine]

Excellent. Thx for the links. I googled this several times over the past few days and never saw that thread on Audiworld.
So apparently the c7 intercooler does indeed have it's own heat exchanger, it just shares the overflow tank with engine, presumably some coolant being shared.

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[SlickMachine]

Tons of posts on this from the B8 S4 thread. I personally don't think the big name brand kits are worth the money. You could piece together the same thing for about $300, versus the $800-1800 the name brands charge, with the same performance.

After a lot of research myself, the only aftermarket cooling solution I would think is worth the money would be a Killer Chiller setup. The supercharged muscle car guys have been doing for a while getting 20*C IATs in 100 deg weather.

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I completely agree. 1800$ is ridiculous.

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[SlickMachine]

Here's a intercooler DIY thread - http://www.audiworld.com/forums/a6-c7-platform-discussion-194/inexpensive-intercooler-improvement-experiment-diy-2892751/
So he uses a larger heat exchanger and comes up with worse cooling... I don't see how that is possible given the laws of physics as long as there was no air in the system, flow rate the same etc.. Really cool experiment though.

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[SlickMachine]

After a lot of research myself, the only aftermarket cooling solution I would think is worth the money would be a Killer Chiller setup. The supercharged muscle car guys have been doing for a while getting 20*C IATs in 100 deg weather.

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This is really friggin cool. Are you thinking of doing it?
I'm wondering what that does to your AC system performance. Using the Universal Kit, if I'm looking at this right, you're just tapping into the AC loop and running the pre-intercooler water through that small block which is cooled by AC...


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[SlickMachine]

I found a few truck forums of guys running the KC kit saying that it absolutely kills your cabin cooling. That would be a deal-breaker for me. I doubt all the extra hardware of the stand alone 12v compressor kit would fit in our cars.

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[ntsantos]

I found a few truck forums of guys running the KC kit saying that it absolutely kills your cabin cooling. That would be a deal-breaker for me. I doubt all the extra hardware of the stand alone 12v compressor kit would fit in our cars.

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Even with the KC kit priced at around $700ish, if one were fairly mechanically inclined, I think it can be replicated for a lot less. The KC system just uses a small water to water plate heat exchanger which I've seen for less than $100. The rest of the kit is just heater hose.

I spent a little time trying figure out how to piece together a standalone system. The only component that is hard to find cheap would be the 12V AC compressor. I think everything else could fit near the crash bar.

[SlickMachine]

Even with the KC kit priced at around $700ish, if one were fairly mechanically inclined, I think it can be replicated for a lot less. The KC system just uses a small water to water plate heat exchanger which I've seen for less than $100. The rest of the kit is just heater hose.

I spent a little time trying figure out how to piece together a standalone system. The only component that is hard to find cheap would be the 12V AC compressor. I think everything else could fit near the crash bar.
Right on.
I like the AWE system as it's modular. I have a theory on best bang for buck and that is using the AWE Cold Front hi flow coolant pump (-6.2° as per AWE) and adding a second OEM intercooler heat exchanger up front on topside of radiator in the airflow. OEM exchanger is 188$ at ECS Tuning. You would just need the small amount of extra plumbing and a way to mount it. So you would be increasing coolant flow by 100% according to AWE as well as increasing the front heat exchanger capacity by 100%. The pump seems expensive at 695$.. Maybe could do better somewhere else but total cost of this system is 900$ plus plumbing

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[ntsantos]

Right on.
I like the AWE system as it's modular. I have a theory on best bang for buck and that is using the AWE Cold Front hi flow coolant pump (-6.2° as per AWE) and adding a second OEM intercooler heat exchanger up front on topside of radiator in the airflow. OEM exchanger is 188$ at ECS Tuning. You would just need the small amount of extra plumbing and a way to mount it. So you would be increasing coolant flow by 100% according to AWE as well as increasing the front heat exchanger capacity by 100%. The pump seems expensive at 695$.. Maybe could do better somewhere else but total cost of this system is 900$ plus plumbing

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You can get the same pump from amazon, Jabsco I think for like $220. You can also wire it the same way awe does without their harness. It will turn the pump on when the ecu turns on.

[SlickMachine]

You can get the same pump from amazon, Jabsco I think for like $220. You can also wire it the same way awe does without their harness. It will turn the pump on when the ecu turns on.

I just finished researching that, thanks.
I believe I found the pump they are using here (https://www.meziere.com/Products/Cooling-System-Products/Pumps-Electric/Remote-Mount/Electric-Pump-Remote-20-GPM-Inline-Single-in-single-out-NPT-Ports.aspx) for 241$ from Meziere directly. It is a 20 GPM pump. After some serious searching I believe I found that the stock pump is 13GPM, so the Meziere pump is 7 more GPM, so if that is the correct pump its not quite the 100% flow increase AWE is claiming.
As far as wiring, what does AWE do different than Audi? What does that harness accomplish?

[Adrenalin Junki]

I think it we/you would also benefit from separating the cooling systems. If you don't separate them then your operating temp will be the same. If we have a 200degree thermostat and a presurized system then the same coolant is flowing threw all the same components. Of you separate the systems then you can better control the temp of the SC coolant. Maybe even flush the SC system and fill with engine ice coolant. This is Just my opinion but I think separating with standalone resivor and maybe an added heat exchanger is the best hang for buck.

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[SlickMachine]

I think it we/you would also benefit from separating the cooling systems. If you don't separate them then your operating temp will be the same. If we have a 200degree thermostat and a presurized system then the same coolant is flowing threw all the same components. Of you separate the systems then you can better control the temp of the SC coolant. Maybe even flush the SC system and fill with engine ice coolant. This is Just my opinion but I think separating with standalone resivor and maybe an added heat exchanger is the best hang for buck.

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Ok, good stuff. I agree, it would be pointless to circulate engine coolant through the intercooler at a faster rate, lol

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[2wookies]

Do we know for a fact the B8 S4 intercooler will fit no problem??

[SlickMachine]

Do we know for a fact the B8 S4 intercooler will fit no problem??
Do you mean the heat exchanger..? If so, I don't think it will fit...I'm looking at the two side by side and although the size is similar, the end caps, connections are different. Part numbers see quite different as well.

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[Adrenalin Junki]

I'm pretty sure any of the kits offered for a b8 S4 will fit. There is plenty of clearance between the bumper has and A/C condensor.
You may have to fab a bracket to mount the exchanger.

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[ntsantos]

You may also still be able to jump on a group buy from PLM. They were doing a special with the HX plus reservoir for 800 shipped. Not bad.


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[ntsantos]

Ok, good stuff. I agree, it would be pointless to circulate engine coolant through the intercooler at a faster rate, lol

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I don't think the SC circuit and engine circuit run at the same temp. They are coonected but only share the coolant reservoir for expansion. Also know that if you divorce, you lose the low coolant warning, so you'll have to periodically check the level.

[SlickMachine]

I don't think the SC circuit and engine circuit run at the same temp. They are coonected but only share the coolant reservoir for expansion. Also know that if you divorce, you lose the low coolant warning, so you'll have to periodically check the level.
Good info....
Have you done the divorce? Details?

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[ntsantos]

Good info....
Have you done the divorce? Details?

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No, I almost did. I purchased the awe unit, but the orders were so backed up I ended up cancelling. Kinda glad I did as I haven't really experienced any issues even with a dual pulley setup in 90deg weather. I feel that stock cooling works fine as long as you don't live in WOT..lol

[SlickMachine]

No, I almost did. I purchased the awe unit, but the orders were so backed up I ended up cancelling. Kinda glad I did as I haven't really experienced any issues even with a dual pulley setup in 90deg weather. I feel that stock cooling works fine as long as you don't live in WOT..lol
I'm getting power fade without a doubt. I'm thinking the temperature for sure, but also the high humidity is a big contributor. Bothers me.

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[ntsantos]

One very cheap cooling solution I've kicked around is adding a small auxiliary fan near the small heat exchanger by the driver side wheel well. Either on a temperature switch or manual switch. Frozenboost.com has a 7" fan for $30.

It seems that no matter how large of an intercooler you have, you will always get heat soak without any air movement. Adding a fan will allow air movement while sitting in traffic or in the staging lanes. Just a thought.

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[SlickMachine]

One very cheap cooling solution I've kicked around is adding a small auxiliary fan near the small heat exchanger by the driver side wheel well. Either on a temperature switch or manual switch. Frozenboost.com has a 7" fan for $30.

It seems that no matter how large of an intercooler you have, you will always get heat soak without any air movement. Adding a fan will allow air movement while sitting in traffic or in the staging lanes. Just a thought.

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I was considering just starting with that also. I found a race shop that sells brake cooling ducts and components that I think would work really well directing air back to that secondary exchanger. They have different shaped scoops, 3" ducts and an in-line fan (38$) that would be perfect. That exchanger gets almost no airflow where it is located. Edited: ducting is there now that I get the light on it, but there is no where for it to exit. I agree a fan would help tremendously as would some venting to dump the hot air.

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[SlickMachine]

I called my shop earlier today which did my APR Stage 2 install, and had a chat about intercoolers on this car. I do like these guys, they are extremely knowledgeable in VW/Audi, they are always willing to shoot the shit about whatever and are not trying just sell you or get off the phone. Guy that I talked to mentioned the APR kit and that it was no longer being manufactured as APR is changing the kit. Speculation from these guys is that it is being improved upon and will be a necessary component in what will be the rumored new APR Stage 3 kit for the 3.0T, supposedly dropping sometime this winter. The kit is based on a dual pulley setup and the new CPS will be handling the charge temp issues created by the extra boost. grain of salt taken.
Also talked about the AWE system and their opinion is that a hi flow pump is not necessary to achieve good results, just the large exchanger.

[Westyfield2]

I've considered this before. Personally, if I do it I'd be going for the AMS Alpha.
http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/697319-3-0TFSI-Cooler-Upgrade

[ntsantos]

I was considering just starting with that also. I found a race shop that sells brake cooling ducts and components that I think would work really well directing air back to that secondary exchanger. They have different shaped scoops, 3" ducts and an in-line fan (38$) that would be perfect. That exchanger gets almost no airflow where it is located. Edited: ducting is there now that I get the light on it, but there is no where for it to exit. I agree a fan would help tremendously as would some venting to dump the hot air.

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Do you have a link to the inline fan? Sounds like a good space saving option.

[SlickMachine]

Do you have a link to the inline fan? Sounds like a good space saving option.
Pegasus Racing
https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/group.asp?GroupID=BLOW

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[ntsantos]

Pegasus Racing
https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/group.asp?GroupID=BLOW

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Thanks!

Here's a link to the 7" radiator fan for anyone interested. It may be slim enough to fit on the face of the smaller hx without having to modify anything. Too bad it's sold out for now, only 25 bucks.

http://www.frozenboost.com/liquid-air-adapter/intercooler-fans-p-1024.html?osCsid=17719f2086ac22a0827ada280354a844

[SlickMachine]

Thanks!

Here's a link to the 7" radiator fan for anyone interested. It may be slim enough to fit on the face of the smaller hx without having to modify anything. Too bad it's sold out for now, only 25 bucks.

http://www.frozenboost.com/liquid-air-adapter/intercooler-fans-p-1024.html?osCsid=17719f2086ac22a0827ada280354a844
Maybe even mount it on the back and reverse flow. It's no wonder that the engine bay in this car gets so hot, there doesn't seem to be any significant method of dumping air overboard. #heatsoak

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[ntsantos]

Another reason I'm hesitant to drop a grand, or more on an off the shelf cooling system is the minimal hp gains shown on AWEs site. Even after their "torture test" doing back to back to back dyno pulls, the loss on the stock system was only 11hp. And that loss is only momentarily, until you get the car moving again. So there really isn't any power gains on top of what your car produces, these hx systems just speed up the recovery time.

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[durfA4]

After reading through that AW article, his issue was that he was not getting the airflow needed to maintain the efficiency of stock cooler. Instead of hunting for the perfect aftermarket cooler, Audi made one or a couple that work pretty well. Why not add another OEM cooler in front and above the bumper rebar. Then plumb it top to bottom. seems like a much easier install them messing around with unknown efficiency and cheap parts. You would be able to add a pump, divorce the system and still be under $500. I may not cool as well as the $1000+ systems but it would have twice the cooling capacity (I realize that thermo dynamics do not work that easily). would be a nice start.

$188 additional cooler - https://www.ecstuning.com/Audi-A7-C7-3.0T/Engine/Cooling/Supercharger/ES2796394/
$40 1" silicone hose- https://www.ecstuning.com/Audi-A7-C7-3.0T/ES2167948/
$240 the pump from above- https://www.meziere.com/Products/Cooling-System-Products/Pumps-Electric/Remote-Mount/Electric-Pump-Remote-20-GPM-Inline-Single-in-single-out-NPT-Ports.aspx
$20 Coolant overflow tank- Ford Focus http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Coolant-Tank-Reservoir-Overflow-Recovery-Bottle-For-Focus-00-07-2-0L-2-3L-/111331011866?hash=item19ebd86d1a:g:UK0AAOSwbYZXUg9 L&vxp=mtr

[ntsantos]

Here's a diy setup from the B8S4 forum. The cool thing about adding a cheaper hx in series with the other two oem units, you'll effectively have a triple pass system.

http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php?t=713475

[SlickMachine]

I just ordered a roll of reflect-a-gold and an infrared thermometer. I'm going to do a bit of experimenting with wrapping the intercooler lines with this stuff given their extremely close proximity to hot engine components. I know this is hardly a solution but if it's good for a couple degrees, might be worth it for 32$. Plus it will be fun messing with it/documenting it.

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[agent47]

I just ordered a roll of reflect-a-gold and an infrared thermometer. I'm going to do a bit of experimenting with wrapping the intercooler lines with this stuff given their extremely close proximity to hot engine components. I know this is hardly a solution but if it's good for a couple degrees, might be worth it for 32$. Plus it will be fun messing with it/documenting it.

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I am curious af to see what your results would be. Someone wrapped their intake pipe with the same stuff and reported a slight dip in temp so maybe this would work. The only doubt in my mind is that the fluid running through the intercooler lines is pretty hot already so wrapping may prevent the heat from escaping? Not sure, might be a dumb doubt, but just came to my mind.

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[SlickMachine]

I am curious af to see what your results would be. Someone wrapped their intake pipe with the same stuff and reported a slight dip in temp so maybe this would work. The only doubt in my mind is that the fluid running through the intercooler lines is pretty hot already so wrapping may prevent the heat from escaping? Not sure, might be a dumb doubt, but just came to my mind.

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While the tape will add some level of insulating property to the lines keeping heat in, it would be very very minimal. The outside reflective surface of the tape, however, reflects heat transfer on an infrared level, which would far overwhelm any adverse insulating effect.
The intake tube is certainly exposed to heat but not quite like those intercooler lines that are down in the bay soaking up all that radiated heat from the motor. I doubt it will be anything noticeable, but I like the theory and it's cheap enough to test out. It can't hurt.

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[ntsantos]

There's another company in Australia that offers a Killer Chiller type setup - fiinterchillers. Check out this pic from their website. Some serious cooling.

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160816/1050098971f13a7dae58957c9ee1e350.jpg

Even the return line is cold!

I reached out to them for pricing and they are a bit more the KC. But they seem to have great customer service as they sent me a quote within a few hours, from Australia.

[agent47]

There's another company in Australia that offers a Killer Chiller type setup - fiinterchillers. Check out this pic from their website. Some serious cooling.

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160816/1050098971f13a7dae58957c9ee1e350.jpg

Even the return line is cold!

I reached out to them for pricing and they are a bit more the KC. But they seem to have great customer service as they sent me a quote within a few hours, from Australia.
Ice cream!!!

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[agent47]

While the tape will add some level of insulating property to the lines keeping heat in, it would be very very minimal. The outside reflective surface of the tape, however, reflects heat transfer on an infrared level, which would far overwhelm any adverse insulating effect.
The intake tube is certainly exposed to heat but not quite like those intercooler lines that are down in the bay soaking up all that radiated heat from the motor. I doubt it will be anything noticeable, but I like the theory and it's cheap enough to test out. It can't hurt.

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Makes a lot of sense. It will be a super cheap mod if successful!

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[SlickMachine]

There's another company in Australia that offers a Killer Chiller type setup - fiinterchillers. Check out this pic from their website. Some serious cooling.

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160816/1050098971f13a7dae58957c9ee1e350.jpg

Even the return line is cold!

I reached out to them for pricing and they are a bit more the KC. But they seem to have great customer service as they sent me a quote within a few hours, from Australia.
I've researched them, specifically threads with guys using killer chiller setups, and what turned me off is the enormous impact it has on your compressors ability to cool your cabin. It simply isn't an option for me, although it is an awesome idea.

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[SlickMachine]

Here's what I have so far. I decided to use the heat tape on the intake tract first to see what happened to temp of the components. For the past few weeks I have been using an infrared thermo to check temps under the hood on various parts after driving with the car up to temp. I found that the intake components (air cleaner assembly, intake tube) were running about 140-150 degrees F on their surface. I installed my RS7 air box today after a drive, where I let the car sit for thirty minutes then took the stock intake apart... Temp inside the tube with the air box removed was 136F. Looking forward to averaging temps over the next few days. Great thing about the rs air box is the vent on the top allowing me to take a reading inside the box itself.

.5"larger diameter
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160830/aec70141ee6c28863bf876662c2edeac.jpg
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160830/dc66afd8f938964fd81cabf37dc2a3f3.jpg
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160830/1387388da2e078b7d74ee482aa4ed4dd.jpg
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160830/7bd4c276767619ccdc790fbec953033f.jpg
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160830/9d31f8e646585fd70ec611860a192fa4.jpg

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[ntsantos]

Nice. I actually switched back to the oem tube, from the 034 hose. I noticed any performance or sound decrease by doing so. The fit and finish of the oem tube just fed my OCD needs.

I also purchased the ITG filter from Griffin. I'll report back once I get it.

[SlickMachine]

Nice. I actually switched back to the oem tube, from the 034 hose. I noticed any performance or sound decrease by doing so. The fit and finish of the oem tube just fed my OCD needs.

I also purchased the ITG filter from Griffin. I'll report back once I get it.
Did you mean you noticed no sound decrease...?
I haven't had much of a chance to drive it today after the install...I took it around the block and got on it briefly but didn't really notice much increase in sound from the blower... I'm hoping I notice it elsewhere. Running the stock filter, which shouldn't matter.

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[ntsantos]

Did you mean you noticed no sound decrease...?
I haven't had much of a chance to drive it today after the install...I took it around the block and got on it briefly but didn't really notice much increase in sound from the blower... I'm hoping I notice it elsewhere. Running the stock filter, which shouldn't matter.

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Yes, no decrease in sound going from 034 to oem. Even with all the mufflers on the oem tube, I can still hear the SC whine.

[SlickMachine]

Yes, no decrease in sound going from 034 to oem. Even with all the mufflers on the oem tube, I can still hear the SC whine.
Cool. I think the a/c going full blast and not really rowing thru gears didn't have much sound to it. Looking forward to the on ramp tomorrow.

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[ntsantos]

Cool. I think the a/c going full blast and not really rowing thru gears didn't have much sound to it. Looking forward to the on ramp tomorrow.

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I also think the k&n makes for a sound increase too.

[SlickMachine]

I also think the k&n makes for a sound increase too.
Did you remove the foam inside the air box or do anything else to it?

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[ntsantos]

Did you remove the foam inside the air box or do anything else to it?

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Foam is still there. I did remove that velocity stack thing.

[SlickMachine]

I can't get the crankcase breather line to engage back onto the friggin new air box. It's difficult to tell exactly what is going on because that hose is short and doesn't allow much room to work with when plugging it back in. I think that stupid ass clip ring is at fault, won't latch.
My solution is to find a filter like the ones included in the cold air kits for that line but I can't locate one on its own. k&n has a few generic ones... Anybody know of a stand alone unit sold specifically for our breather line?

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[cooncified]

I can't get the crankcase breather line to engage back onto the friggin new air box. It's difficult to tell exactly what is going on because that hose is short and doesn't allow much room to work with when plugging it back in. I think that stupid ass clip ring is at fault, won't latch.
My solution is to find a filter like the ones included in the cold air kits for that line but I can't locate one on its own. k&n has a few generic ones... Anybody know of a stand alone unit sold specifically for our breather line?

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I'd also like to know this. Broke the clip on mine...

[SlickMachine]

I'd also like to know this. Broke the clip on mine...
Such a POS. My neighbors hate me because of that asshole clip.

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[ntsantos]

I can't get the crankcase breather line to engage back onto the friggin new air box. It's difficult to tell exactly what is going on because that hose is short and doesn't allow much room to work with when plugging it back in. I think that stupid ass clip ring is at fault, won't latch.
My solution is to find a filter like the ones included in the cold air kits for that line but I can't locate one on its own. k&n has a few generic ones... Anybody know of a stand alone unit sold specifically for our breather line?

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I've wanted to do the same. I've luckily been able to get it to attach to the box correctly. You have to line up the opposing tabs/clips on that ring.

I think if you reach out to CTS, Roc euro, or ecs, they may sell you the smaller filter and adapter. The only other option is to make your own adapter and just purchase the crankcase vent filter from amazon, ebay, etc.

[SlickMachine]

I just called ECS and pointed them to the Luft-Teknic intake for the B8 S4 and asked if that secondary filter was available standalone. He then searched and found this part number ES2864860 (https://www.ecstuning.com/Search/ES2864860/ES2864860/) which is to a kit for a GTI, includes brackets and stuff we wont use for 24.95. Seems like an acceptable solution even though it is probably 10$ of components we wont use. Looking at product pics, looks liike it is the same size fitting as in the gti. what do you guys think?

[SlickMachine]

Here is the one that is included in the CTS Turbo kit for S4: http://www.ctsturbo.com/cart/products/CTS_Turbo_1_breather_filter_rubber_base-4884-580.html

Edit: I'm going with the ECS kit since CTS shipping to USA is expensive.

[ntsantos]

Here is the one that is included in the CTS Turbo kit for S4: http://www.ctsturbo.com/cart/products/CTS_Turbo_1_breather_filter_rubber_base-4884-580.html

Edit: I'm going with the ECS kit since CTS shipping to USA is expensive.
Great find! I would probably go with ecs too.

[SlickMachine]

Living next to ECS has its benefits..
Here's the part: https://www.ecstuning.com/ES2864860/
Just got the secondary air filter for the breather line. Fits perfectly. Just zip tied to a nearby wire loom.
Adapter snaps in place even though the air box would not.
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160901/97d3c5b8c7c0fe4720dca1937559a4a2.jpg

Filter on adapter, worm clamp.
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160901/b08c65651119a1c829a169fdc2729d91.jpg

Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk

[ntsantos]

Living next to ECS has its benefits..
Here's the part: https://www.ecstuning.com/ES2864860/
Just got the secondary air filter for the breather line. Fits perfectly. Just zip tied to a nearby wire loom.
Adapter snaps in place even though the air box would not.
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160901/97d3c5b8c7c0fe4720dca1937559a4a2.jpg

Filter on adapter, worm clamp.
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160901/b08c65651119a1c829a169fdc2729d91.jpg

Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk
Eliminates one pita step when removing/installing the airbox.[emoji1]