Daily Driver Brake Job Recommendations

[A4droptop]

My daughter's A4 will need a brake job soon- figuring pads and rotors for front and rear.
I've performed dozens of brake jobs over the past 20 years on GMs and Hondas, so I am familiar with doing the general job.

Wondering a few things about this one:

1- Can the rotors be turned? What is the min thickness?
2- any recommendations on rotors? Brand, material, doesn't matter?
3- any recommendations on pads? Brand, compound?
4- any special tips? I've read a few older posts about removing/ not removing the bolts for the rear caliper bracket, etc.
5- anything else I need/ should look for or do while I am at it?
6- best place to buy? I've used Rock Auto and the local supply stores in the past.


'07 A4 Cabriolet, 83k if it matters. She is the 3rd owner of the car. According to the car history, all prior work the past 6 years has been done at the local dealer.

This is her daily driver- nothing special needed, just general duty.

Thanks

[UberTeile]

2- any recommendations on rotors? Brand, material, doesn't matter?
3- any recommendations on pads? Brand, compound?

This is her daily driver- nothing special needed, just general duty.



Many here prefer Centric brake products for non-performance applications. Their PosiQuiet Ceramic compound pads generate very little dust, offer adequate performance, and also include all necessary hardware. Their high-carbon rotor blanks also work well on these cars.

[drewgold]

My daughter's A4 will need a brake job soon- figuring pads and rotors for front and rear.
I've performed dozens of brake jobs over the past 20 years on GMs and Hondas, so I am familiar with doing the general job.

Wondering a few things about this one:

1- Can the rotors be turned? What is the min thickness? There seems to be some debate on this but generally it's not worth the cost to have Audi rotors turned, you can pick up aftermarket rotors for very cheap.
2- any recommendations on rotors? Brand, material, doesn't matter? Not sure about material but people like Zimmerman, StopTech/Centric for rotors and tough to beat the price!
3- any recommendations on pads? Brand, compound? I have used Hawk, EBC and StopTech pads, all with great results, there are loads of options out there, for a daily driver, don't break the bank, cheap pads from a reputable company will be great. As for compound, it depends on budget, each have their benefits/drawbacks but can't really go wrong with a semi-metallic pad.
4- any special tips? I've read a few older posts about removing/ not removing the bolts for the rear caliper bracket, etc. Don't follow the B7 DIY listed on the forum for the front calipers, it recommends separating the caliper halves which is unnecessary and also not a good idea. Fronts are very straight forward, rears can be tricky, I removed the caliper carrier bolts, some have been able to replace the rear discs without removing the carrier. All you need to remove the carrier bolt is a stubby hex bit socket. I just ground down a standard 3/8" socket bit so the bit was just long enough to fit inside the head of the bolt. A section of pipe that will fit over the handle of your socket wrench will be helpful to use as a breaker bar as you likely can't fit a breaker bar on the rear bolts. Breaker bar for the fronts definitely helps, plenty of room up there.
5- anything else I need/ should look for or do while I am at it? You may want to consider replacing/cleaning/rebuilding the front and rear guide pins/boots/etc. The caliper piston boots may also need to be replaced.
6- best place to buy? I've used Rock Auto and the local supply stores in the past. FCPEuro.com has great deals on kits and their customer service is outstanding. I think you can get a complete front & Rear kit for the B7 from them including rotors and pads for under $300. Autopartswarehouse.com has good deals and sales as well. Definitely worth it to shop around when looking for brake parts as there are loads of options.

'07 A4 Cabriolet, 83k if it matters. She is the 3rd owner of the car. According to the car history, all prior work the past 6 years has been done at the local dealer.

This is her daily driver- nothing special needed, just general duty.

Thanks

Others may chine in but having done many brake jobs on Audis I feel qualified to respond. I also just did brakes all around on my B7 but upgraded calipers, etc.

My responses are above. Hope they help!

[A4droptop]

Thanks, I'll look into those as well.

[Gin+]

My suggestion; https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/audi-brake-kit-front-rear-a4-a4-quattro-bosch-b7a4brake1

[A4droptop]

Others may chine in but having done many brake jobs on Audis I feel qualified to respond. I also just did brakes all around on my B7 but upgraded calipers, etc.

My responses are above. Hope they help!

Thanks for the input; I'll check out all those.
I've seen some rotors listed as 320, 300, 280, and even some at 288 mm. Any way to know without taking off and measuring?

[A4droptop]

My suggestion; https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/audi-brake-kit-front-rear-a4-a4-quattro-bosch-b7a4brake1

Thanks, that makes it easy.

[Audibot]

To add to what Drew had just said:

I use Centric High Carbon discs and Posi-Quiet ceramic pads using a Porsche 18Z caliper (6-pot) up front, and they are great. No issues using this setup. I also find that PartsGeek.com seems to have awesome pricing on it, and I've gotten F/R discs and pads there for good prices!

You may want to a get replacement bushing kit, which will keep the braking pretty stiff. There are aftermarket brass kits, but I don't think you need it.

The rotor screw (Torx) will be a HUGE pain. You will probably want to spray some penetrant (I recommend AeroKroil) on it a day before you are doing the change. They have a tendency to strip (extraction kit may be necessary). Also pick up some spare screws and be sure to apply anti-seize. Once you have the disc off, be sure to wire-brush the rust off the new surface--it can cause you to think the disc is warped because it is not an even surface.

Be careful with the front spring clips--they are a pain!

[vwnobby]

I would recommend Centric rotors. Inexpensive and seem to be quality rotors. I run them as daily and I also have a set of slotted Centric for track. Both hold up really well.
As for pads, I found that the Hawks were gouging my rotors so I switched to Stoptech pads. I've also installed Textar on my mother's car as well as my brother's car, both daily drivers, and they work very well.
As far as tips: Like was mentioned, makes sure to clean and lube the guide pins, for front carrier I use a 21mm (IIRC) socket to remove the lower carrier bolt and just loosen the top one. That should allow you to swing the carrier back and take the rotor out.
As for the back, I've actually been able to remove the rotor without removing the carrier. It's a bit tight, but may be done.
I've made most of my latest rotors and pad purchases from RockAuto.com or Europaparts.com

[A4droptop]

To add to what Drew had just said:

I use Centric High Carbon discs and Posi-Quiet ceramic pads using a Porsche 18Z caliper (6-pot) up front, and they are great. No issues using this setup. I also find that PartsGeek.com seems to have awesome pricing on it, and I've gotten F/R discs and pads there for good prices!

You may want to a get replacement bushing kit, which will keep the braking pretty stiff. There are aftermarket brass kits, but I don't think you need it.

The rotor screw (Torx) will be a HUGE pain. You will probably want to spray some penetrant (I recommend AeroKroil) on it a day before you are doing the change. They have a tendency to strip (extraction kit may be necessary). Also pick up some spare screws and be sure to apply anti-seize. Once you have the disc off, be sure to wire-brush the rust off the new surface--it can cause you to think the disc is warped because it is not an even surface.

Be careful with the front spring clips--they are a pain!

Thanks for the tips. I have stripped that screw on a Honda before and had to drill it out. Pain.