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Wagonholic
06-18-2016, 04:55 PM
Hi all. In case you haven't already figured it out, this is a build thread. I've written quite the lengthy backstory, so if you wish to see all the build porn, scroll down [:D]

Some back story:

I purchased the car back in February of 2014 from North Carolina. It was a well sorted 2001 B5 S4 Avant in Laser Red with a 6-speed manual transmission. Despite being an east coast car for pretty much its entire life, it was very clean, with minimal rust. Most importantly, ALL (and I mean ALL) maintenance was up to date, and it was a fairly freshly built car. It had a freshly rebuilt transmission, brand new BW K04s, and an OTS AWE fueling kit and tune (along with all supporting mods). It sat on a Bilstein/H&R cup kit and had Brembo/Porsche 18z calipers up front with the ECS rear brake upgrade. A very well sorted car, I had intended to drive it as it was. But as we all know, a car guy (and especially a B5 S4 owner) cannot stay away from touching or fiddling with the car. The car wouldn't stay like this for long.

Here's how the car looked like when I first picked her up. I was younger, and completely clueless to the adventure that was to come. I knew how to work on cars (I was only 16 at the time (not my first car)) but never something as complex or complicated as an Audi. I had prior experience on my dad's boosted E36 M3 and his 911, but it was very limited).

Brought her all the back to California from North Carolina. Unfortunately, I was too busy at the time so I just had the car shipped over.
http://i1160.photobucket.com/albums/q494/justinliew/B5%20S4%20Avant%20Build/IMG_1611_zpsck5nhdu4.jpg (http://s1160.photobucket.com/user/justinliew/media/B5%20S4%20Avant%20Build/IMG_1611_zpsck5nhdu4.jpg.html)

In the next year, I added a JHM SS and SSAC Twin1 Catback (Car came with AWE Downpipes). Nothing much, but everything was DIY'd (as I can only make so much money with a high school job lol) and started to prepare me for what was to come.

In the winter of 2014, I decided that it was time for more power. I upgraded to Bosch EV14 550cc injectors, an 85mm MAF, and got into contact with Aaron Walizer (aka STUKLR) for tuning. He dialed in the car and it ripped pretty hard (at least for 91). Eventually, I added methanol injection and tuned for it as well.

I also threw on a set of Bilstein PSS9 Coilovers to help sharpen the handling as well.

That's pretty much the end of the backstory. For almost the past year, the car has basically sat like this. The final setup was as follows:

OEM BorgWarner K04 Turbochargers
Bosch EV14 550cc Injectors
Custom STUKLR Tuned on 91+Methanol
01E Transmission built by AA
B5 RS4 LUK Clutch assembly with AWE LWFW
Walbro 450 Fuel Pump
Bilstein PSS9 Coilovers
RS4 engine mounts
Brembo/Porsche 18z front brakes with ECS rear brake upgrade
22mm Rear Sway bar
AWE SMIC
AEM W/M Injection system with Aquamist nozzles
Misc. Mods such as Bi-xenon retrofit, tints, radar detector, etc.
Basically all supporting mods that go along


http://i1160.photobucket.com/albums/q494/justinliew/B5%20S4%20Avant%20Build/IMG_3388_zpsrts59oal.jpg (http://s1160.photobucket.com/user/justinliew/media/B5%20S4%20Avant%20Build/IMG_3388_zpsrts59oal.jpg.html)

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Fast forward to now, I just finished my first year of college. I'm also a somewhat more mature (lol!) 18-year old adult with responsibilities. With the combination of studying, working, and saving up and not touching the car modwise for the past several months, I suddenly had some extra cash saved up. I've always wanted to do an RS6/Big turbo style setup, but never actually thought I'd have the opportunity to do something like this. It'll also keep me nice and busy during the summer lol. I love how quickly K03/K04 turbos spooled (minimal lag) but always wished they didn't die off at higher RPMs. In addition, the car was due for some major maintenance (timing belt, coolant fresh, etc) so I decided to use that as an excuse to do a build. I bought a fast car, improved on what I could....NOW IT WAS TIME FOR ME TO BUILD A BEAST.

Over the past 6-8 months, I've done my research, enlisted the help of several close friends, and jumped on deals whenever they popped up on the classifieds. I have decided the following to be my final new setup:

SRM K24/RS6 Hybrid Turbochargers
RPM Rods
Bosch FID 1000cc Injectors
Walbro 450 Fuel pump
2.8 Cams
Custom Tuning by STUKLR on 91, 91/meth, and E85
AWE SMIC
White Dog Racing Custom BiPipe
AEM Water/Methanol Injection
Southbend Stage IV Extreme Clutch with AWE LWFW
Stern Motor and Transmission Mounts
JHM Trio Shifter Package
Gates/ECS Timing Belt Kit
R8/2.0T Coil Conversion
Modified Catless AWE Downpipes (changing flanges to RS6) and SSAC Twin1 Exhaust
ALL Maintenance Done (rod bearings, gaskets, seals, etc)
FCP Euro Front Control Arms



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I chose the SRM K24/RS6 hybrids because I wanted to lose as little of the spool that K04s are famous for. With the fact that I'm doing rods, limiting torque shouldn't be as big of an issue as stock block builds. I've seen E85 Stock Block K24 cars rip, so I can't wait to see what I can achieve. I will be doing ALL work (except machine shop work) by myself and with friends. This is the first time I've attempted something like this, so this will be interesting.

Mileage at the time of teardown was 136XXX. Car ran flawlessly up until teardown. My dad thinks I'm crazy for taking apart a perfectly running car I have spent so much time and love working on it. Oh well, you only live once.

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Last I finally pulled the engine and trans. Had some friends come over and we got it out. Honestly, it was super fun and wasn't too difficult at all
http://i1160.photobucket.com/albums/q494/justinliew/B5%20S4%20Avant%20Build/IMG_5449_zpsfky7xnxu.jpg (http://s1160.photobucket.com/user/justinliew/media/B5%20S4%20Avant%20Build/IMG_5449_zpsfky7xnxu.jpg.html)
http://i1160.photobucket.com/albums/q494/justinliew/B5%20S4%20Avant%20Build/IMG_5455_zpspeuspzg8.jpg (http://s1160.photobucket.com/user/justinliew/media/B5%20S4%20Avant%20Build/IMG_5455_zpspeuspzg8.jpg.html)

Engine out!

http://i1160.photobucket.com/albums/q494/justinliew/B5%20S4%20Avant%20Build/IMG_5460_zpsa0d5dvng.jpg (http://s1160.photobucket.com/user/justinliew/media/B5%20S4%20Avant%20Build/IMG_5460_zpsa0d5dvng.jpg.html)

Obligatory group photo. I'm in the purple shirt. For 4 out of the 5 of us (only four of us are in the picture, one of my friends had to leave right before this) this was the first time we've ever pulled a motor on a car of any type. My friend laying on the floor has had 6 B5s and has pulled the motor several times prior. Can't thank Randy enough...
http://i1160.photobucket.com/albums/q494/justinliew/B5%20S4%20Avant%20Build/IMG_5462_zpsk1gb3chj.jpg (http://s1160.photobucket.com/user/justinliew/media/B5%20S4%20Avant%20Build/IMG_5462_zpsk1gb3chj.jpg.html)

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This past week, I've been working slowly on the car. I'm out of class for the summer, so other than working and taking some summer classes, I've just been slowly working on the car.

Turbos were absolutely spotless. ZERO shaft play and ZERO dents on the fins. (The coolant on the driver's side turbo was from an exploded coolant hose haha). Once they are cleaned up, they could be mistaken for a pair of brand new turbos. I ran the car on a 22psi tune, changed oil every 5-7k using Mobil1 0w-40, and ensured proper warm up and cool down. They will be for sale soon.
http://i1160.photobucket.com/albums/q494/justinliew/B5%20S4%20Avant%20Build/IMG_5464_zpsz6jqwgro.jpg (http://s1160.photobucket.com/user/justinliew/media/B5%20S4%20Avant%20Build/IMG_5464_zpsz6jqwgro.jpg.html)

http://i1160.photobucket.com/albums/q494/justinliew/B5%20S4%20Avant%20Build/IMG_5465_zpsgagytleh.jpg (http://s1160.photobucket.com/user/justinliew/media/B5%20S4%20Avant%20Build/IMG_5465_zpsgagytleh.jpg.html)

I wasn't too crazy about warm up/cool down either. I would cold start the car in the morning, let the revs settle, say under 3k/out of boost until the coolant was up to temp, and then tried to stay under 5psi (or out of boost whenever possible) until the oil registered 175 degrees. For cool down, I just took the last miles easy. I also pretty much hit redline/full boost almost every time I drove. This car was never babied, and never will be. What's the point of building a fast car if you're never going to use it? [drive]

Got the engine on the stand
http://i1160.photobucket.com/albums/q494/justinliew/B5%20S4%20Avant%20Build/IMG_5475_zpsl5qlnqqi.jpg (http://s1160.photobucket.com/user/justinliew/media/B5%20S4%20Avant%20Build/IMG_5475_zpsl5qlnqqi.jpg.html)

Valve Covers off. Looks pristine inside.
http://i1160.photobucket.com/albums/q494/justinliew/B5%20S4%20Avant%20Build/IMG_5477_zpsu9r9zrod.jpg (http://s1160.photobucket.com/user/justinliew/media/B5%20S4%20Avant%20Build/IMG_5477_zpsu9r9zrod.jpg.html)
http://i1160.photobucket.com/albums/q494/justinliew/B5%20S4%20Avant%20Build/IMG_5478_zpspi8fck7m.jpg (http://s1160.photobucket.com/user/justinliew/media/B5%20S4%20Avant%20Build/IMG_5478_zpspi8fck7m.jpg.html)

Removed intake manifold
http://i1160.photobucket.com/albums/q494/justinliew/B5%20S4%20Avant%20Build/IMG_5474_zpsuvfvtwld.jpg (http://s1160.photobucket.com/user/justinliew/media/B5%20S4%20Avant%20Build/IMG_5474_zpsuvfvtwld.jpg.html)

Obligatory "I think I know what I'm doing" selfie
http://i1160.photobucket.com/albums/q494/justinliew/B5%20S4%20Avant%20Build/IMG_5479_zps1fhs6huk.jpg (http://s1160.photobucket.com/user/justinliew/media/B5%20S4%20Avant%20Build/IMG_5479_zps1fhs6huk.jpg.html)

Got the heads off. Minimal carbon buildup, and the factory hone/cross-hatching is still visible on the cylinder walls. The factory printing is still visible on the tops of the pistons as well. Basically looks brand new inside. Water/meth injection really helps keep things clean. The heads/valves are in great shape as well.
http://i1160.photobucket.com/albums/q494/justinliew/B5%20S4%20Avant%20Build/IMG_5499_zpsnkzm7ezq.jpg (http://s1160.photobucket.com/user/justinliew/media/B5%20S4%20Avant%20Build/IMG_5499_zpsnkzm7ezq.jpg.html)

As of today (6/18/16) (and writing of the thread) I have removed both heads, lower and upper oil pan, oil pump, timing belt, and a lot of random crap. Never realized how small the block actually is. It's hard to believe this motor made such a great sound and was the source of so many good memories over the past two years.
http://i1160.photobucket.com/albums/q494/justinliew/B5%20S4%20Avant%20Build/IMG_5501_zpsb7cjiaha.jpg (http://s1160.photobucket.com/user/justinliew/media/B5%20S4%20Avant%20Build/IMG_5501_zpsb7cjiaha.jpg.html)

Tomorrow is father's day, so I'll probably take a break and spend some time with my dad. I suggest you all do the same as well. Though he does enjoy this kind of stuff. I guess I get it from him.

I'm waiting on my turbos from Sean, but other than that everything seems to be going smoothly. Heads are going off to the machine shop next week; I'm still debating on whether or not I should do new valve seals (mine are flawless, and I know they can last a while). But then again, I might as well do them while the heads are off. Thoughts?

In the entire time I've had this car, I never had any major issues with it. I wouldn't hesitate to drive it cross-country on a moment's notice. After this build, I hope to keep it the same way. It just goes to show that if you keep these cars well maintained, they can go a long way.

I also will have a lot of "Stage 3" parts for sale, if you're interested feel free to inquire. I will be creating ads for the parts in a couple of weeks. If you're in need of something, I probably have it lol.

y3ti
06-18-2016, 05:24 PM
looks like there are gonna be some pretty strong S4s in SoCal very soon. I was told 1000cc injectors for K24s on E85, might want to check on that.

Looking forward to the results! GL 👍

Wagonholic
06-18-2016, 05:27 PM
looks like there are gonna be some pretty strong S4s in SoCal very soon. I was told 1000cc injectors for K24s on E85, might want to check on that.

Looking forward to the results! GL 👍

Ah, my bad. Typo on my part lol. I will be using Bosch FID 1000cc injectors (from SRM), not 550cc.

Corradovolksb
06-18-2016, 05:29 PM
Your car is clean man props for keeping it in great shape. Your build list looks good. You will be happy with the Srm k24s they are a good fit for our cars. Good luck with the build man it's going to be a fun car when your done.

Eurotuned_A4
06-18-2016, 06:06 PM
You're wearing a UW shirt in one of your photos. Do you go there? Have fun on the build!

vavJETTAw36
06-18-2016, 09:27 PM
Pics no worky


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

darrenho
06-18-2016, 11:10 PM
I've always enjoyed reading a build thread like this!

MacDaddy
06-19-2016, 06:49 AM
Sounds cool, i would probably do rs6 coils instead and a used APR bipipe because they are easier/cheaper

Wagonholic
06-19-2016, 07:17 AM
Your car is clean man props for keeping it in great shape. Your build list looks good. You will be happy with the Srm k24s they are a good fit for our cars. Good luck with the build man it's going to be a fun car when your done.
Chose the K24s because they don't sacrifice that much spool over K04s but push so much more air at the top end


You're wearing a UW shirt in one of your photos. Do you go there? Have fun on the build!
Went there for a bit my Freshman year. Ended up transferring back to CA midway, just missed home a bit too much. Seattle is a great place and I need to go back and visit soon again.


Pics no worky


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
They're hosted on Photobucket, so maybe check your browser and see if photobucket works?


I've always enjoyed reading a build thread like this!
Well I'll make sure to keep it updated for everyone's enjoyment ;)


Sounds cool, i would probably do rs6 coils instead and a used APR bipipe because they are easier/cheaper
I can get the R8/2.0T coils super cheap from my friend at the dealer, and I already have the plates. In the end it's probably the same stuff anyway.

I hate APR and would never run any of their products on my car lol. Plus I got into contact with Craig way back when he just started marketing these pipes, so when it was time for me to buy one, he gave me a price I couldn't refuse. Ended up being cheaper than a used APR unit. The price some people I also like the way he sets up the throttle body...much less chance of damaging it with install/removal. In addition, they come with meth bungs already, whereas I would have to tap the APR bi-pipe. Finally, and most importantly, the craftsmanship that went into the pipe is second to none and the customer service Craig provided was amazing. I highly recommend his piece, and it should be the go-to option now.

Thank you for the kind words everyone! I'll do my best to keep this updated.

skip01b5
06-19-2016, 09:42 AM
Did you have to trim your fan at all to run the WDR bi-pipe? Their website says you need to with the 54mm version and then delete it wit all other versions.

funkin
06-19-2016, 10:24 AM
This is wicked. Good job dude, nothing like a fast, clean avant!

Wagonholic
06-19-2016, 12:14 PM
Did you have to trim your fan at all to run the WDR bi-pipe? Their website says you need to with the 54mm version and then delete it wit all other versions.
I'm deleting the fan anyway and doing an EFK. Which was my original plan all along. I did a test fit with the clutch fan and with some fondling and massaging, as well as some trimming it could possibly barely fit. I'd recommend you do the same as well since the stock clutch fan is a POS anyway.


This is wicked. Good job dude, nothing like a fast, clean avant!
Thank you man. I'm also debadging the car and removing any stickers. So a plain old red wagon. Should be pretty steathly (at least for a red car lol).

Wagonholic
06-19-2016, 01:03 PM
Happy father's day to all the dads out there, including mine. I got some morning work done on the car. A major milestone in the build today.

Pistons and rods are out and look great. Cylinder walls are clean and so are the cylinders and rings. Crank is in good shape as well.

Pistons and rods. Each one is labeled on the piece of paper to ensure they go back into their proper respective cylinders. Next step is to remove the pistons from the rods...I've heard separating the wrist-pin c-clip is fun. Lol we'll see how that goes. If anyone has any tips on that please share [wrench]
http://i1160.photobucket.com/albums/q494/justinliew/B5%20S4%20Avant%20Build/IMG_5505_zps2oogn9wi.jpg (http://s1160.photobucket.com/user/justinliew/media/B5%20S4%20Avant%20Build/IMG_5505_zps2oogn9wi.jpg.html)

Crank looks great. Not gonna touch it any further.
http://i1160.photobucket.com/albums/q494/justinliew/B5%20S4%20Avant%20Build/IMG_5507_zpsg79wxeil.jpg (http://s1160.photobucket.com/user/justinliew/media/B5%20S4%20Avant%20Build/IMG_5507_zpsg79wxeil.jpg.html)

Cylinders 1-2-3
http://i1160.photobucket.com/albums/q494/justinliew/B5%20S4%20Avant%20Build/IMG_5509_zpsrpcen11x.jpg (http://s1160.photobucket.com/user/justinliew/media/B5%20S4%20Avant%20Build/IMG_5509_zpsrpcen11x.jpg.html)

Cylinders 4-5-6
http://i1160.photobucket.com/albums/q494/justinliew/B5%20S4%20Avant%20Build/IMG_5508_zpsbbns30cd.jpg (http://s1160.photobucket.com/user/justinliew/media/B5%20S4%20Avant%20Build/IMG_5508_zpsbbns30cd.jpg.html)

Going to use a razor blade to carefully clean the block deck to ensure proper sealing of the new headgasket. Other than that, I believe disassembly is pretty much done. Heads will be going off to the machine shop sometime this week, and hopefully I'll start reassembly at the end of the week!

HighPsi(NorCal)
06-19-2016, 01:25 PM
I literally just did this 2 weekends ago. I put a towel over the wristpin and pried them out. I didn't find it to be terrible. When I put them back in, I closed the gap of the c-clip a little with a set of pliers, which helped to get them back in. One tip, spend the money on the Apr Ring Compression Sleeve, it made popping the pistons in so easy. Also, if you haven't decided yet, I would recommend flex honing the cylinders to make sure that the rings will seal correctly going back in, you need an 3 1/4" (83mm), 180 grit hone, cost was ~$30 on amazon.

Arp Sleeve -
http://i725.photobucket.com/albums/ww254/m-tre/Mobile%20Uploads/20160611_193858_zpsdrebcywn.jpg

Flex hone before and after

http://i725.photobucket.com/albums/ww254/m-tre/Mobile%20Uploads/20160515_142345_zpsr0u9sa0z.jpg

http://i725.photobucket.com/albums/ww254/m-tre/Mobile%20Uploads/20160529_231508_zpsgcxjvbyy.jpg

Wagonholic
06-19-2016, 04:44 PM
I literally just did this 2 weekends ago. I put a towel over the wristpin and pried them out. I didn't find it to be terrible. When I put them back in, I closed the gap of the c-clip a little with a set of pliers, which helped to get them back in. One tip, spend the money on the Apr Ring Compression Sleeve, it made popping the pistons in so easy. Also, if you haven't decided yet, I would recommend flex honing the cylinders to make sure that the rings will seal correctly going back in, you need an 3 1/4" (83mm), 180 grit hone, cost was ~$30 on amazon.

Arp Sleeve -
http://i725.photobucket.com/albums/ww254/m-tre/Mobile%20Uploads/20160611_193858_zpsdrebcywn.jpg

Looks like weisco makes one of those as well, thanks for the suggestion.

As for removing the c-clip, did just use a flathead or were any other special tools used?

As for honing the cylinders, I've decided that I'll reuse the rings and just put them back in (after cleaning and verifying that they're within spec) to keep things simple. They're in great shape as well. Trying to avoid touching the crank since I've heard that can cause many issues down the road. I do have a set of Grant rings sitting at home just in case I end up changing my mind though.

-Billy
06-19-2016, 05:17 PM
I just used a small pick and a small flathead screwdriver when I took the wrist pin clips out. There's a little spot in the piston where you can get behind the clip easily and get the first side out with the pick then work around it with the flathead. I definitely recommend wearing some safety goggles, having the side you're working on not facing you, and having some cardboard and/or rags to catch the clips when they come out. They definitely come out with some force and can be lost easily. Luckily they are cheap..its been a few months but if I remember correctly they are less than 50 cents each. I replaced all of them as I lost a few in the process and for piece of mind.

Reinstalling them is essentially the opposite, but a good bit more difficult imo. Far from impossible, but it takes a some patience.

Also, I don't recommend taking the wrist pins all the way out of the Pistons. I took two of mine out entirely and wound up having to put them in the freezer for like 2 days to get them back in place. The rest I only pushed the wrist pins out enough to remove and replace the rods, and that went really smooth.

I personally would, and did replace the rings while I was in there. Especially since you already have them. You can buy a ring galling tool at jegs for like $35ish. It's really simple to use, just take your time. I'd offer to send you mine, but you'd be looking at probably close to half that much shipping back and forth. Kinda seems pointless for such a cheap tool.

HighPsi(NorCal)
06-19-2016, 05:30 PM
I just used a flathead and pried from where the notch is at, once it comes out, it comes out with some velocity, which is why i put the rag over it, i had the first 1 bounce of the ceiling, a few walls and came to rest in the room down the hall.

I used the grant rings as well as all new bearings in the crank. Measured both axial and radial play. The machinist that does all our shops heads and blocks recommended that if everything spec'd out, to flex hone to break the glaze and run with it. He stressed the importance of getting the abravise grit out, his exact words "clean really, really, really good, preferrably remove the crank, and do all new bearings." I went with glyco bearings, cost maybe $70 total (amazon prime) plus either arp mains stud or stocks bolts.

-Billy
06-19-2016, 05:36 PM
^^^excellent point. Clean everything until you're positive there's not a speck of anything...and then clean it about 80 times more. Lint free rags and compressed air is your friend.

GramCracker
06-20-2016, 06:05 AM
Solid project you decided to tackle Justin, looking forward to seeing the end result. Good luck!

hibiscusS4
06-20-2016, 06:24 AM
looks good. in for results

erykv1
06-20-2016, 07:00 AM
Awesome. Excited for you! Following :)

Wagonholic
06-20-2016, 08:24 AM
Thanks for all of the kind words. I'm having way too much fun with the build (is it normal that I actually enjoy working on a 2.7t? lol)

A few question...What's the best way to get the cams out of the heads (heads are already off the car). I also still have not removed the camshaft gear/sprocket yet. Need to remove the cams so I can send the heads out to get machined.

Finally, I had one aftermarket axle on the car that was a POS. Literally fell apart when I removed it from the car. If anyone could help me source an OEM 6-speed front driver (left) axle, that would be great. I don't want that being the thing that holds up the build when it's time to button everything back together.

gahigalaba
06-20-2016, 09:46 AM
A lot of people have success with raxles. Rebuilt oem units and I think they were like 200-300 last time I got a quote.

y3ti
06-20-2016, 09:49 AM
^ but you need to have an oem axle as a core.

Wagonholic
06-20-2016, 03:17 PM
Yes you do. I believe I have found a set though, will be picking them up this weekend if all goes well

tewnick
06-20-2016, 08:43 PM
200 if you have a core to send back. 300 with out a core to send back.

Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk

christianb5s4
06-21-2016, 09:31 AM
Awesome Justin, was wondering when you'd throw a build thread up here! Can't wait to see the results, going to be one heck of a wagon.

CJ_
06-21-2016, 09:44 AM
Is this the one Matt Farah drove? Looking forward to this build!!

Also did you leave the transmission in when you pulled it?

mikeb17
06-21-2016, 10:04 AM
Is this the one Matt Farah drove? Looking forward to this build!!

Also did you leave the transmission in when you pulled it?

Idk how people get the engine and transmission to pull back together with the transmission still in the car. The 2.7 is the only engine that takes gobs of force to come together. The 454 in my chevelle just falls into place and comes apart the same way haha.

Audi9
06-21-2016, 12:24 PM
What did you end up setting your piston ring gaps to?

HighPsi(NorCal)
06-21-2016, 01:13 PM
I set my grant rings to:

Ring 1 = .48mm
Ring 2 = .60mm
Ring 3 = .40mm (I didn't have to touch this ring(s) as this was the gap that they came with)

Spec for Ring 1 per Audi manual is:
.35-50mm wear limit 1.0mm

Ring 2
.50-70mm wear limit 1.4mm

Ring 3
.25-50mm wear limit .8mm

Wagonholic
06-21-2016, 01:51 PM
Awesome Justin, was wondering when you'd throw a build thread up here! Can't wait to see the results, going to be one heck of a wagon.
Thanks Christian, we gotta set up a meet or something once I'm done. I'm taking it slowly since I'm in no rush. Don't want to make any mistakes lol.


Is this the one Matt Farah drove? Looking forward to this build!!

Also did you leave the transmission in when you pulled it?
Yes, this is the one he drove. In case is anyone is wondering, the answer is no, he will not be driving it again ;)

Engine and tranny was pulled as a single unit. Separated them outside of the car so the tranny isn't pictured. I will be installing the JHM trio linkages and doing a 4:1 center diff while it's all apart. I have a source for the washers if you're interested.


What did you end up setting your piston ring gaps to?
I will be reusing my piston rings since they're in great shape. That way I won't need to touch/remove the crank and get a hone.


I set my grant rings to:

Ring 1 = .48mm
Ring 2 = .60mm
Ring 3 = .40mm (I didn't have to touch this ring(s) as this was the gap that they came with)

Spec for Ring 1 per Audi manual is:
.35-50mm wear limit 1.0mm

Ring 2
.50-70mm wear limit 1.4mm

Ring 3
.25-50mm wear limit .8mm

Thanks for this info, I appreciate it. This will allow me to verify that everything is in spec and that the wear is acceptable before putting everything back together.

Wagonholic
06-21-2016, 01:53 PM
I'll start cleaning everything up after I'm off from work today. Hopefully I can send the heads off the machine shop this week and begin reassembly sometime this weekend. Couldn't do anything yesterday due to this crazy heat wave in LA yesterday sadly. Lol.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

CJ_
06-21-2016, 07:31 PM
Engine and tranny was pulled as a single unit. Separated them outside of the car so the tranny isn't pictured. I will be installing the JHM trio linkages and doing a 4:1 center diff while it's all apart. I have a source for the washers if you're interested.



Oh haha, yeah the pics made it look that way. I sent my diff into JHM. After I installed it, I pulled it out and put in a stock one cause I had a noise from the front end and I thought it was the culprit. Ended up being the wheel bearings so now I'm just waiting to drop it back in.

You're going to love the JHM kit, installed that also with my build. I installed the stiffest reverse spring on the shifter to get rid of that "most annoying bouncy shifter of any car" lol

Wagonholic
06-21-2016, 11:31 PM
Oh haha, yeah the pics made it look that way. I sent my diff into JHM. After I installed it, I pulled it out and put in a stock one cause I had a noise from the front end and I thought it was the culprit. Ended up being the wheel bearings so now I'm just waiting to drop it back in.

You're going to love the JHM kit, installed that also with my build. I installed the stiffest reverse spring on the shifter to get rid of that "most annoying bouncy shifter of any car" lol

Sat in Cinesnow's car the other night, which has the full kit and stiff spring as well. I have to say, it's a HUGE improvement over what I have now, let alone the stock shifter. As a matter of fact, I drove a stock (including shifter) B5 S4 that night, and it felt broken just because it was slow compared to what I was used to lol. However, my view on the JHM trio shifter combo was kinda skewed since I had just directly come out of driving an E39 M5 for the several hours prior. That car has one of the best shifters out there.

.....BUT...it's just a shifter. As long as the car is fast, who cares (although improving it as much as possible would be nice haha.)

Wagonholic
06-21-2016, 11:46 PM
Still quite hot here in LA, so I waited until the sun set and got working.

Since I'm not going to machine the block, I have to make sure the deck is as clean as possible to ensure that the new headgasket will seal properly. Tons of brake cleaner, some cheap shaving razors, a gasket scraper, and some engine degreaser and I spent about an hour cleaning off the deck. It's basically smooth to the touch now, though I'll be sure to get a second opinion from some friends before throwing everything back together.
http://i1160.photobucket.com/albums/q494/justinliew/B5%20S4%20Avant%20Build/IMG_5515_zpsqpjudrlf.jpg (http://s1160.photobucket.com/user/justinliew/media/B5%20S4%20Avant%20Build/IMG_5515_zpsqpjudrlf.jpg.html)
http://i1160.photobucket.com/albums/q494/justinliew/B5%20S4%20Avant%20Build/IMG_5516_zpscehflfqo.jpg (http://s1160.photobucket.com/user/justinliew/media/B5%20S4%20Avant%20Build/IMG_5516_zpscehflfqo.jpg.html)

Got the pistons separated from the rods. The c-clips weren't to much of a hassle; they didn't fly or pop out with crazy velocity. Pretty uneventful.
http://i1160.photobucket.com/albums/q494/justinliew/B5%20S4%20Avant%20Build/IMG_5514_zpsx0qnxa7b.jpg (http://s1160.photobucket.com/user/justinliew/media/B5%20S4%20Avant%20Build/IMG_5514_zpsx0qnxa7b.jpg.html)

One of my favorite pictures of the build so far. The new RPM rods next to the old stock rods.
http://i1160.photobucket.com/albums/q494/justinliew/B5%20S4%20Avant%20Build/IMG_5517_zps6r9lpudy.jpg (http://s1160.photobucket.com/user/justinliew/media/B5%20S4%20Avant%20Build/IMG_5517_zps6r9lpudy.jpg.html)

Question for those out there...how did your wrist pins fit the RPM rods? I know some people suggest getting the wrist pin hole honed so the wrist pins slide in easier. The pins do fit as-is, but it's a tight squeeze compared to stock. I remember one of the AMDetroit guys (I think Marty) posted saying that they didn't hone them, they just ran them as is with no issues. Thoughts?

Link to the post: http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/638812-Who-has-installed-RPM-rods?p=11661671&viewfull=1#post11661671

Got the old piston rings off. They look great, and I will most likely be reusing them since I will not have to get a hone then.
http://i1160.photobucket.com/albums/q494/justinliew/B5%20S4%20Avant%20Build/IMG_5513_zpstq6czscy.jpg (http://s1160.photobucket.com/user/justinliew/media/B5%20S4%20Avant%20Build/IMG_5513_zpstq6czscy.jpg.html)

Finally, any suggestions on how to clean up the pistons. The carbon is pretty hard and caked on there pretty good. I gave them a light spray with brake-clean today, which helped a bit. Perhaps some soaking and a light scrubbing pad may work (but I don't want to scratch the pistons. That would be very bad).

Wagonholic
06-22-2016, 12:01 AM
One MOAR thing....My turbos came today!

sandspeed
06-22-2016, 01:07 AM
If you can, find a place that will blast them with walnut shells. Otherwise, you can soak them in brake cleaner for a couple hours and then use hard plastic scrapers to chip away at the carbon. Other methods that work are green scrubbies, after getting the chunks off, or one of these and a drill:

https://www.amazon.com/Scotch-Brite-07525-Tapered-Medium-Bristle/dp/B000FW2M1I/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1466582761&sr=1-1&keywords=Scotch-Brite+07525+Roloc

HighPsi(NorCal)
06-22-2016, 04:34 AM
I used Carb/intake then follwed with brake clean and a wire brush. Took about 3-5 mins a piston. I also used the ring gap edges to clean the ring land area.http://i725.photobucket.com/albums/ww254/m-tre/Mobile%20Uploads/20160611_170553_zpsikswgfew.jpg

rdcyclist
06-22-2016, 12:15 PM
As HighPSI pointed out, Carb/Intake spray works pretty well. Brakleen is a good follow up. Make sure you clean the bottom of the ring grooves.

I would also strongly suggest new rings along with a hone. You've got the engine down to this point and taking a chance on a ring (or more) not returning to a good seal would be a false economy. Yeah, the rings will probably be OK but if they're not you're gonna be out another 500 bucks and three weekends of effin' around...

My $0.02...

S4 John
06-22-2016, 01:29 PM
More of a question, I saw on an episode or roadkill garage they did an engine overhaul and cleaned up the cylinders using a drill attachment honing tool. Just curious, would you do this?

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/brh-bc3412?seid=srese1&cm_mmc=pla-google-_-shopping-_-srese1-_-brush-research&gclid=CK7g_4a8vM0CFQyEaQodLrkK-g

rdcyclist
06-22-2016, 07:25 PM
More of a question, I saw on an episode or roadkill garage they did an engine overhaul and cleaned up the cylinders using a drill attachment honing tool. Just curious, would you do this? Yes, I've used those to break the glaze on cylinders but prefer the straight stone type like this: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/lil-23500/overview/

If you wanna be pro-like this is much better because it'll keep the cylinder truer: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/lil-15000/overview/

Gabe.
06-23-2016, 10:27 AM
Looks good Justin! When are you working on it next?

Wagonholic
06-23-2016, 10:03 PM
Looks good Justin! When are you working on it next?

Thanks! I work on it a little bit every day. Hoping to begin engine assembly this weekend.

Wagonholic
06-26-2016, 03:37 PM
Been pretty hot/busy this past week, but I finally got the rods on the pistons. All that is left to do is to put the c-clips back (probably gonna be a pain in the ass) and then start putting the motor back together.

Soaked the pistons for almost two days in a mixture of hot water, engine degreaser, and brake cleaner. Worked beautifully and the carbon came off easily with the purple scotchbrite pads. They basically look brand new. Forgot to take a "before" picture though lol
http://i1160.photobucket.com/albums/q494/justinliew/B5%20S4%20Avant%20Build/IMG_5523_zpsbieatkdl.jpg (http://s1160.photobucket.com/user/justinliew/media/B5%20S4%20Avant%20Build/IMG_5523_zpsbieatkdl.jpg.html)

And the rods and pistons are now one.
http://i1160.photobucket.com/albums/q494/justinliew/B5%20S4%20Avant%20Build/IMG_5524_zpse1ulzqqh.jpg (http://s1160.photobucket.com/user/justinliew/media/B5%20S4%20Avant%20Build/IMG_5524_zpse1ulzqqh.jpg.html)
http://i1160.photobucket.com/albums/q494/justinliew/B5%20S4%20Avant%20Build/IMG_5525_zpsnx0vwuc6.jpg (http://s1160.photobucket.com/user/justinliew/media/B5%20S4%20Avant%20Build/IMG_5525_zpsnx0vwuc6.jpg.html)

Stay tuned for big updates this week :)

Wagonholic
06-26-2016, 05:04 PM
Pictures of the SRM RS6/K24 Turbos:
http://i1160.photobucket.com/albums/q494/justinliew/B5%20S4%20Avant%20Build/IMG_5526_zpsd9wuqowh.jpg (http://s1160.photobucket.com/user/justinliew/media/B5%20S4%20Avant%20Build/IMG_5526_zpsd9wuqowh.jpg.html)

Next to the K04s (for sale):
http://i1160.photobucket.com/albums/q494/justinliew/B5%20S4%20Avant%20Build/IMG_5527_zpstr9isvzg.jpg (http://s1160.photobucket.com/user/justinliew/media/B5%20S4%20Avant%20Build/IMG_5527_zpstr9isvzg.jpg.html)

If anyone is interested in my old parts, I have listed what I have for sale at the following link:
http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/713287-B5-S4-Performance-Stage-3-Parts

jibberjive
06-27-2016, 03:58 AM
Nice build! It looks like you are most of the way through, but here is a link to a document with some assembly tips/tricks, torque specs, links to help with the c-clip installation, etc.

http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/446090-Engine-assembly-specs-tolerances-tips-diagrams-and-links-document

It's looking good, and I look forward to following the build!

christianb5s4
06-27-2016, 08:49 AM
Great progress Justin, the race wagon is going to be a beast! Also, I was out of town this weekend but let me know when you want to pick up my Miltek exhaust. I'll be around for a few weeks.

Wagonholic
06-27-2016, 03:45 PM
Nice build! It looks like you are most of the way through, but here is a link to a document with some assembly tips/tricks, torque specs, links to help with the c-clip installation, etc.

http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/446090-Engine-assembly-specs-tolerances-tips-diagrams-and-links-document

It's looking good, and I look forward to following the build!
Glad you chimed in, I actually printed out your document a while back and thought it was super helpful. It's great to have resources like that out there.

As for the bearing tangs, I've talked to several people and they said it doesn't really matter which side it goes on, provided that you keep it consistent. In my case, I ended up facing them towards the exhaust (outside) of the motor.


Great progress Justin, the race wagon is going to be a beast! Also, I was out of town this weekend but let me know when you want to pick up my Miltek exhaust. I'll be around for a few weeks.
No worries, I'll probably be back in the OC this weekend again anyway.

Wagonholic
06-29-2016, 12:33 AM
Updates for the night...unfortunately photobucket is down so pics will have to wait.

Got the bottom end assembled. All went pretty smoothly, all the rod bearings are in spec, verified with plastigauge.

Used an $8 harbor freight ring compressor (was on sale), worked beautifully lol. Super easy to put everything in. Clocked the rings 90 degrees from each other to prevent blowby/compression issues.

I do have a question though...everyone says to torque the ARP rod bolts to 28 ft-lbs for the 5/16" head. However, I discovered that i have 3/8" inch rod bolts, and the sheet specified that those types of bolts needed to be torqued to 45 ft-lbs. However according to this thread I should disregard that as the torque spec is for the type that is bolts/studs. http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/545228-IE-Rod-bolts-(ARP-2000)-torque-spec-26ft-lbs-or-50ft-lbs Anyways, 28 ft-lbs was the one that was checked on my sheet so I ended up following that as I didn't want to overstretch/torque the bolts.

I ended torquing my rod bolts to 30 ft-lbs for good measure. Used the supplied packet of moly lube as well Did the torque/remove method 3x, and all clearances checked out. Thoughts?

If I did anything wrong or of concern please let me know asap. Would rather fix it now before I throw the oil pans back on or worse...after i start the car for the first time.

I'll post photos of my progress as soon as photobucket is back up and running.

jibberjive
06-29-2016, 02:52 AM
As for the bearing tangs, I've talked to several people and they said it doesn't really matter which side it goes on, provided that you keep it consistent. In my case, I ended up facing them towards the exhaust (outside) of the motor.

It looks like IE came out with a FAQ on the rods since the last time I looked, and directly from them, the bearing tangs go on the exhaust side.

http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/638812-Who-has-installed-RPM-rods?p=11661893&viewfull=1#post11661893

http://i725.photobucket.com/albums/ww254/m-tre/Mobile%20Uploads/Screenshot_2016-06-02-06-07-20_zpshjbp8ixa.png



I do have a question though...everyone says to torque the ARP rod bolts to 28 ft-lbs for the 5/16" head. However, I discovered that i have 3/8" inch rod bolts, and the sheet specified that those types of bolts needed to be torqued to 45 ft-lbs. However according to this thread I should disregard that as the torque spec is for the type that is bolts/studs. http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/545228-IE-Rod-bolts-(ARP-2000)-torque-spec-26ft-lbs-or-50ft-lbs Anyways, 28 ft-lbs was the one that was checked on my sheet so I ended up following that as I didn't want to overstretch/torque the bolts.

I ended torquing my rod bolts to 30 ft-lbs for good measure. Used the supplied packet of moly lube as well Did the torque/remove method 3x, and all clearances checked out. Thoughts?

Which set of rods do you have exactly? I am highly skeptical that you actually have 3/8" rod bolts on 2.7 rods (the socket on the 5/16" rod bolts is 3/8", so maybe that threw you off?).

I haven't done a set of IE rods in a while, but when I did, the literature that came with it said 26ft/lbs IIRC. However, it looks like ARP themselves have updated their 2.7t stock rod bolt replacement page with a torque spec that says 30 ft/lbs (WITH ARP moly lube).

http://arpinstructions.com/instructions/204-6201.pdf

http://i297.photobucket.com/albums/mm235/jibberjive/DIYs/ARP204-6201.jpg~original


Also, if you look at the general torque specs for ARP fasteners in their catalog (page 24 here http://arpcatalog.com/?src=home), it says that 220,000 psi rated 5/16" fasteners (which is what the 5/16" ARP2000 rod bolts are rated at) should be torqued to 32 ft/lb with lube (and the 200,000 psi rated ones are 28 ft/lb).

30 ft/lbs from the ARP2000 2.7t rod bolt product page is right in that range, and that is the value I have updated my sheet to have.

Edit: I saw the pictures and posts from above, you definitely have 5/16" rod bolts, not 3/8".

Wagonholic
06-29-2016, 10:19 AM
It looks like IE came out with a FAQ on the rods since the last time I looked, and directly from them, the bearing tangs go on the exhaust side.


Which set of rods do you have exactly? I am highly skeptical that you actually have 3/8" rod bolts on 2.7 rods (the socket on the 5/16" rod bolts is 3/8", so maybe that threw you off?).

I haven't done a set of IE rods in a while, but when I did, the literature that came with it said 26ft/lbs IIRC. However, it looks like ARP themselves have updated their 2.7t stock rod bolt replacement page with a torque spec that says 30 ft/lbs (WITH ARP moly lube).


Also, if you look at the general torque specs for ARP fasteners in their catalog (page 24 here http://arpcatalog.com/?src=home), it says that 220,000 psi rated 5/16" fasteners (which is what the 5/16" ARP2000 rod bolts are rated at) should be torqued to 32 ft/lb with lube (and the 200,000 psi rated ones are 28 ft/lb).

30 ft/lbs from the ARP2000 2.7t rod bolt product page is right in that range, and that is the value I have updated my sheet to have.

Edit: I saw the pictures and posts from above, you definitely have 5/16" rod bolts, not 3/8".

Must've been that. Thank you for clarifying that up.

I installed my bearing tangs facing the exhaust side. should be okay.

I may just bump up the torque 2 ft-lbs today just to be on the safe side...though my 30 ft-lbs should theoretically be okay. I did use lube...giggity

y3ti
07-09-2016, 02:43 PM
updates!?

keep this rolling... it's too easy to lose motivation.

Wagonholic
07-09-2016, 06:48 PM
updates!?

keep this rolling... it's too easy to lose motivation.

Lol been busy, but the build is still rolling.

I assembled the bottom end, everything spins freely. I'm currently out of the country, but I'll be back in around two weeks. When I'm backing I'm thinking of having a couple of people over to help finish the motor assembly and then reinstall it in the car. The goal is to have it all back and running by early August.

Don't worry, I haven't lost motivation! I never expected to finish the build before leaving on my trip.

Still waiting on my injectors from SRM/FID and my flywheel surface from AWE.

I'll post some pics in a bit ;)

christianb5s4
07-11-2016, 08:23 AM
Y3ti wants to see your progress since he's feeling uber competitive to see who will have the faster avant after all these builds are done. [drive]

y3ti
07-11-2016, 09:01 AM
Y3ti wants to see your progress since he's feeling uber competitive to see who will have the faster avant after all these builds are done. [drive]
lol, truth.

and hopefully I can convince a few of you to run the 1/4 when we're all at 100%

Wagonholic
07-11-2016, 07:11 PM
lol, truth.

and hopefully I can convince a few of you to run the 1/4 when we're all at 100%

Down to take it to the strip and run the 1/4. Slight chance I may be able to run the 1/8th at SoCal Euro this year, but if the car isn't fully broken in yet I obviously won't risk it lol. But if the car is up and running, i'll make the drive down.

What's the point of all the power if you aren't going to use it ;)

Wagonholic
08-04-2016, 11:32 AM
Well, it's time for a long overdue update!

I was out of the country for 3 weeks, but I got to work as soon as I got back. As the motor currently stands, the entire bottom assembly is completely assembled. I will be leaving the country again for 2 weeks in 1 1/2 weeks (lol) but my goal is to finish assembling the motor before I leave.

Here are some pics of the current progress:

Front view of the motor. Removed all accessories from the front. I have a new timing kit, water pump, and thermostat that will be installed. I will be replacing the stock clutch fan with an EFK.
http://i1160.photobucket.com/albums/q494/justinliew/B5%20S4%20Avant%20Build/IMG_5792_zpssgv67sqr.jpg (http://s1160.photobucket.com/user/justinliew/media/B5%20S4%20Avant%20Build/IMG_5792_zpssgv67sqr.jpg.html)

Views of assembled pistons/rods/motor:
http://i1160.photobucket.com/albums/q494/justinliew/B5%20S4%20Avant%20Build/IMG_5793_zpsd4tkd9h7.jpg (http://s1160.photobucket.com/user/justinliew/media/B5%20S4%20Avant%20Build/IMG_5793_zpsd4tkd9h7.jpg.html)
http://i1160.photobucket.com/albums/q494/justinliew/B5%20S4%20Avant%20Build/IMG_5794_zpsjcn4xswp.jpg (http://s1160.photobucket.com/user/justinliew/media/B5%20S4%20Avant%20Build/IMG_5794_zpsjcn4xswp.jpg.html)

My RPM rods didn't require any additional machining out of the box, the wrist pins fit fine and I checked the clearances on all the rod bearings (new) and they were in spec. I torqued all the rod bolts down to 32 ft-lbs. The wrist pin c-clips aren't too difficult to install if you have a really small pair of pliers and know a couple of tricks. (rotate your wrists and use the hole on the piston lol)

The next major step is reinstalling the heads. Any tips or tricks for setting timing? I will be using a cam lock bar.
http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/621027-Cylinder-Head-Install-on-2-7T-Motor?p=10194563&viewfull=1#post10194563
What I seem to get is that the best way is to position the crankshaft so that the pistons are out of the interference zone, set heads at TDC, then set crank at TDC?

Soon, very soon she will be running. I have spare car so I'm not in any rush, but I'm getting anxious and want to drive the car already lol. Plus, my parents kinda want this half of the garage back. Lol.

Wagonholic
09-11-2016, 10:07 PM
So it's been a while since I've posted any updates, but I've got a major update today! Assembled the longblock, and the heads are back on the car! It's finally becoming a reality, and the finish line is in sight!

http://i1160.photobucket.com/albums/q494/justinliew/B5%20S4%20Avant%20Build/IMG_6414_zpsscdwoxox.jpg (http://s1160.photobucket.com/user/justinliew/media/B5%20S4%20Avant%20Build/IMG_6414_zpsscdwoxox.jpg.html)

While reinstalling the heads, I took the opportunity to install 2.8 intake cams as well. I forgot to order a tensioner for the timing belt, so I put off installing the belt for now. In the meantime, the motor is timed and is currently locked with the pin and bar.

Just to double check, installing the head bolts is a sequence of 40nm, 60nm, then two rounds of 90 degrees to achieve final stretch? (In the proper sequence of course)

Monty23
09-12-2016, 06:07 AM
Just to double check, installing the head bolts is a sequence of 40nm, 60nm, then two rounds of 90 degrees to achieve final stretch? (In the proper sequence of course)


You got it.
http://i1091.photobucket.com/albums/i385/JMont23/bentley%20head%20bolts_zps0jp0okhc.jpg

topquarkpc
10-13-2016, 12:20 PM
Updates?

Wagonholic
02-06-2017, 12:28 PM
Almost forgot I had a build thread even; it's been a long time.

Good news....engine is back in the car and first startup happened last night! The hoses/lines aren't on completely or securely, I just hastily put them on because I wanted to start the car so badly. Lol. So there is probably a leak, and not the smoothest idle because this was attempted on my old K04 file. Once I flashed my new base file on the car smoothed out quite a bit (still not 100%, but closer than expected).

It's been a long process...slowly but surely it'll get there lol.

I'll attach a video shortly, my network isn't allowing me to upload a video at the moment.

To all of my friends that came by, put long hours in with me and helped, and to those that helped me figure out issues over the internet, I can't thank you enough.

Wagonholic
02-28-2017, 05:15 PM
Alright, no more slacking. I'll bring this thread back to life. In my previous post, I mentioned that the car is running nicely and is about ready for shakedowns.

The motor has about 95 miles on it and is due for an oil change. I'm currently running cheap-o Walmart conventional 5w-30; I'll be doing an oil change with the same stuff. At 500 miles, I shall switch over to synthetic, and will be running Mobil1 0w-40 European Car blend, which I had always run previously.

Final specs of the build are (pretty sure I forgot a lot lol):

SRM K24/RS6 Turbochargers (Wastegates set to 15psi)
RPM Rods
FID 1000cc Fuel Injectors
2.8 30v Intake Cams
Southbend Stage IV Extreme Clutch assembly
Stern Motor and Transmission Mounts
WDR Custom Bi-pipe
Stock Piston rings
New rod bearings
Stock Pistons
Gates Racing Timing Belt
Full Motor reseal
STUKLR Custom Tuning



Quickie vid of cold start and light revs

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lOx_aTBOivI

Wagonholic
02-28-2017, 05:39 PM
Figured I would throw up some of my favorite pics I did during this build. It's been a long road, taking a lot longer than expected. I've been busy with school, work, and I travel a lot. I usually only had the chance to work on the car during the weekends. So in those cases the car gets pushed to the side. This was my first motor pull/engine build/all sorts of fun. It's been a great learning experience, and if you have any questions, don't hesitate to ask. I have tons of pics on Instagram: my handle is @justinliew_

I have also created a new handle on Instagram that highlights the automotive antics my close friends and I partake. I think I've gotten them hooked on the DIY bug. Visit @yeengineering as this new account takes off.


AAAAAANNNNNND, some pictures....

Engine completed, timing all set, turbos mounted (September 2016)
http://i1160.photobucket.com/albums/q494/justinliew/B5%20S4%20Avant%20Build/IMG_6493_zpskaqu2sh8.jpg (http://s1160.photobucket.com/user/justinliew/media/B5%20S4%20Avant%20Build/IMG_6493_zpskaqu2sh8.jpg.html)

Pressure washed engine bay, a clean new home (September 2016)
http://i1160.photobucket.com/albums/q494/justinliew/B5%20S4%20Avant%20Build/IMG_6430_zpspyywrwnm.jpg (http://s1160.photobucket.com/user/justinliew/media/B5%20S4%20Avant%20Build/IMG_6430_zpspyywrwnm.jpg.html)

Engine fully sealed, complete (October 2016)
http://i1160.photobucket.com/albums/q494/justinliew/B5%20S4%20Avant%20Build/IMG_6558_zpsab8ww68v.jpg (http://s1160.photobucket.com/user/justinliew/media/B5%20S4%20Avant%20Build/IMG_6558_zpsab8ww68v.jpg.html)

Rebuilding front end, control arms were all original and were completely shot. FCP Euro kit came in clutch, and feels great (November 2016)
http://i1160.photobucket.com/albums/q494/justinliew/B5%20S4%20Avant%20Build/IMG_6695_zpsoi0jxndj.jpg (http://s1160.photobucket.com/user/justinliew/media/B5%20S4%20Avant%20Build/IMG_6695_zpsoi0jxndj.jpg.html)

Took the engine off the stand, and this is when the project really felt like the end was in sight (December 2016)
http://i1160.photobucket.com/albums/q494/justinliew/B5%20S4%20Avant%20Build/IMG_6957_zps0ixldxxs.jpg (http://s1160.photobucket.com/user/justinliew/media/B5%20S4%20Avant%20Build/IMG_6957_zps0ixldxxs.jpg.html)

Engine and Transmission Mounted. Great way to end 2016 (December 31, 2016)
http://i1160.photobucket.com/albums/q494/justinliew/B5%20S4%20Avant%20Build/IMG_6979_zpse06di5qp.jpg (http://s1160.photobucket.com/user/justinliew/media/B5%20S4%20Avant%20Build/IMG_6979_zpse06di5qp.jpg.html)

Engine back in its home (January 2017)
http://i1160.photobucket.com/albums/q494/justinliew/B5%20S4%20Avant%20Build/FullSizeRender_zpszkbiln4o.jpg (http://s1160.photobucket.com/user/justinliew/media/B5%20S4%20Avant%20Build/FullSizeRender_zpszkbiln4o.jpg.html)

I left for Europe right after putting the motor back in. Two weeks later, my friends kept bugging me to finish up the damn car. So we got together one Friday night, ordered some food and drinks, and worked through the whole night putting the rest of the car back together. CSF Radiators sent me a radiator a while back to test fit, and it fits very well and provides more than enough cooling for the car. Fans are not even hooked up yet and the car never goes past center.

Pulling an all nighter to reassemble car (February 2017)
http://i1160.photobucket.com/albums/q494/justinliew/B5%20S4%20Avant%20Build/IMG_7493_zpsjh0j3pdh.jpg (http://s1160.photobucket.com/user/justinliew/media/B5%20S4%20Avant%20Build/IMG_7493_zpsjh0j3pdh.jpg.html)

As of February 2017, I've owned this car for 3 years. Can't believe it has been that long.

The next day, I finally drove the damn car for the first time in almost 8 months. Felt so good (February 2017).
http://i1160.photobucket.com/albums/q494/justinliew/B5%20S4%20Avant%20Build/IMG_7503_zpskpd1jfpq.jpg (http://s1160.photobucket.com/user/justinliew/media/B5%20S4%20Avant%20Build/IMG_7503_zpskpd1jfpq.jpg.html)

I need an alignment (lowered on PSS9 coilovers) and new tires as well. My favorite cheap tire, the Federal 595 EVO seem to be out of stock everywhere. Might give the new 595 RPM a try or even the RS-R. I've had experience in various cars with the Federal-595 family and love them. Lol. Hey they work.

If all goes well, shakedowns should done around the end of March and I can begin pump gas/meth tuning at that time. Once it's dialed in, I ultimately plan to run E85 and meth. (@vavjettaw36, I look forward to seeing your ethanol content analyzer/gauge cluster thingy. I'll definitely need one [:)])

I'll be keeping this thread updated again! Stay tuned, and thanks to all of those that were of assistance!

erykv1
02-28-2017, 05:59 PM
awesome man, glad to see everything come together nicely!

Cajkaaa
02-28-2017, 06:15 PM
looking good! basically the setup i want to do

jnaarnold
02-28-2017, 07:03 PM
Read this whole thread tonight...
one question...did you leave the cam chain, or replace it? Just curious...and awesome build...I want one of these next to my B5 S4!!

Wagonholic
02-28-2017, 08:29 PM
awesome man, glad to see everything come together nicely!
Thank you sir! Your 2.0T coil conversion pigtails are working nicely lol ;)


looking good! basically the setup i want to do
Considering someone recently made 620whp and trapped low 11s in the 1/4 on basically the exact same setup, I am looking forward to the results.
(Not gonna get too caught up in the numbers game. It could make 100whp for all I care. As long as it's fast as shit I'll be happy. I like to drive my car very hard so this should be a fun setup)


Read this whole thread tonight...
one question...did you leave the cam chain, or replace it? Just curious...and awesome build...I want one of these next to my B5 S4!!
Yeah I forgot to post and update this thread for a while lol.
I reused my cam chains. They looked fine. Cam chain tensioners looked good too. I had to replace the pads on one because I accidentally dropped one and broke it lol. $10 for replacement pads.

jibberjive
02-28-2017, 10:33 PM
Nice to see it get buttoned up!


Considering someone recently made 620whp and trapped low 11s in the 1/4 on basically the exact same setup, I am looking forward to the results.

Any links to this comparable setup?

Wagonholic
02-28-2017, 11:07 PM
Nice to see it get buttoned up!



Any links to this comparable setup?

Thank you!

Yes it was posted on the lowercase group ok facebook. Here are some screen grabs and a video of the dude's 1/4 run. The only hardware difference is that he has supertech exhaust valves and different tuner. I believe it is an identical setup otherwise.

https://youtube.com/watch?v=MDtVe5B38p4&feature=youtu.be


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ik5rQ_0dXyc

I'm not too concerned if I don't hit those numbers, but it's nice knowing that this is a very capable setup.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170301/9810f2b1c9e913485d4bd22c4958ee7e.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170301/5cbf891e00b0ae9118a0bad73d8b191d.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170301/1550cbe44a693c69cee3053ba60a4f9e.jpg

y3ti
02-28-2017, 11:14 PM
Any links to this comparable setup?

It was posted on one of the FB groups. One post was his 1/4 mile run and later he posted his dyno over 600whp or something like that.

Seems kind of crazy, but Blake tuned it and has even chimed in saying it's legit.

I feel like something is being left out, but I didn't keep an eye on the post so I have no idea what the exact setup is.

jibberjive
03-01-2017, 12:40 AM
Nice, thanks for the info. I bailed on the lowercase FB group a while ago.

When all of the variables align (E85+meth+good tuner+lightweight wheels+weight reduction+good driving+what I assume is a decent density-altitude), good track times can happen. Glad to see it. 620whp on a mustang with that setup (especially flowing the amount of E85 required to reach that power level through stock fuel lines/rails) is really impressive/borderline. Well done.

For the budget, I don't think you can do much better than your setup.

Wagonholic
03-01-2017, 08:03 AM
One of my friends who works closely with Blake mentioned that one of the reasons those figures were achieved on stock rails/lines/single pump was because of meth injection. If I'm not mistaken, didn't itguy make 600+ at the wheels years ago on these same turbos as well?

I know most people fail to achieve what these turbos can actually do because they usually have stock rods and/or have a car that isn't fully dialed in, hardware-wise.

I can say though, although this build took longer, the final cost price isn't too far off from where I had originally estimated. So I'm pretty happy with that lol.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Monty23
03-01-2017, 09:52 AM
Nice work!

NOTORIOUS VR
03-01-2017, 10:31 AM
Fantastic results at the strip that's for sure, congrats!

Not quite sure I believe the dyno results based on the track results (MPH) and weight claimed by the owner.

GO-GOTEKNO
03-01-2017, 10:43 AM
This should be a fun quick spoiling setup

zatch_303
03-01-2017, 10:51 AM
excellent! so glad you finished the build! what is even more amazing is that its in a rare laser avant! keep us updated!

quick question, did you have everything balanced after adding RPM rods? or just drop in and go? I keep hearing mixed information on whether or not it is required/recommended.

Wagonholic
03-01-2017, 11:11 AM
Thank you all, and those numbers might be optimistic. Not really going to get to caught up in the numbers game when I start dialing in the wagon.


excellent! so glad you finished the build! what is even more amazing is that its in a rare laser avant! keep us updated!

quick question, did you have everything balanced after adding RPM rods? or just drop in and go? I keep hearing mixed information on whether or not it is required/recommended.
No balance. All the rods spec'd out nicely and all weighed the same. The stock rods are actually further "out of balance." My rods didn't require any additional machining, and all plastigauged to spec upon install.

Some say balance, some say it's not necessary. I don't believe it is necessary in this case, and I know of many "unbalanced" builds that are still going nice and strong. Some have built heads and rev out to over 8000.

Wagonholic
03-02-2017, 09:33 PM
Picked up some new shoes for the lady today.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170303/daee35a3567edf80352d5af7d036d504.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170303/ce83df56eb2323c2f369f67ce448e7db.jpg

My rears were completely shredded. No idea why. Donuts maybe? \_(ツ)_/

IronmanS4
03-03-2017, 10:15 AM
Truly an epic job for a 1st timer !!! Hard to beat a very fast Rare Bird .

Wagonholic
04-04-2017, 09:00 AM
Updates....which I should do more often honestly. Been busy.

Been driving it somewhat, have had a couple of minor issues but I'm happy with the car overall.

Have about 100 miles left on break-in. Probably need to rewire my coil packs since I have the open circuit code.

Purge valve on the bottom of the coolant tank leaks, I should probably fix that. I just tied the line above the level of the tank for now so I don't lose coolant.

CSF Radiator cools well. I used a cheap 14" fan for an EFK. Bad idea, doesn't cool enough in hot LA traffic. Gonna buy a nice 16" and make it fit.

Gonna fab up a clutch stop. Clutch is nice to use but engagement is a bit high and causes me to turn my leg at an awkward angle when driving in traffic. Knee got swollen after a weekend of driving it lol.

Need to get around to doing my rear diff carrier bushings. Have them, just need a press. Any tips to doing those would be appreciated.


Eventually I'll probably upgrade fuel lines/rails and do a catch can. Not super high on my priority list right now. I'll do it when it's necessary.

Quick note, I love the Federals. Super quiet and smooth when cruising, but grip like crazy when attacking a back road. Destroy my old Hankooks in performance and honestly feel just as good, or even better than some of the more expensive options that I've used from Michelin or Pirelli. Haters gonna hate, but at $80 a tire I won't feel bad launching on them or doing donuts in them. Quality is a non-issue; my dad has been running them for over a year now on his 911 and the wear is great and they've held up fine. That car gets driven hard and has exceeded 160 MPH several times.

CJ_
04-04-2017, 09:20 AM
Just caught up on this, awesome to see it's running! Can't wait to check this out one of these days. My new setup is going to basically be the exact same as your old setup lol

Wagonholic
04-04-2017, 09:54 AM
Just caught up on this, awesome to see it's running! Can't wait to check this out one of these days. My new setup is going to basically be the exact same as your old setup lol

Once I get it running nicely and dialed in, many road trips will be in order.

Seems like a lot of people are having similar setups. I guess it's because for the value/cost to build, it can't be beat.

christianb5s4
04-04-2017, 10:19 AM
Great update, as for the diff carrier bushings I didn't need a press. You can either cut the old ones out or burn them out or use a vice to squeeze them out. Installation of the new bushings is super easy.

CJ_
04-04-2017, 10:22 AM
Yes! I'm sure ill be out there as well for shows/etc. Would like to make it out for SoCal euro again. Are you going to dyno it when its all dialed?

Also where do you get those federal tires? They look good for the price

ElementR
04-04-2017, 11:34 AM
The hose coming from the bottom of the coolant tank leading to nothing is just a controlled drain so coolant avoids hot surfaces when it's expelled from the coolant tank. Under normal circumstances, it should not leak. If it is leaking, the cap is venting. That can be caused by either 1) a faulty cap or 2) by the system pressure exceeding the cap limit and the cap venting as a result as intended. The latter can occur if you overheat or if there is air trapped in the system which can cause enough pressure to build when heated to burp coolant out the cap. And air could be there either from simply not getting it all out during initial fill or due to a leak somewhere.

Wagonholic
04-04-2017, 04:13 PM
The hose coming from the bottom of the coolant tank leading to nothing is just a controlled drain so coolant avoids hot surfaces when it's expelled from the coolant tank. Under normal circumstances, it should not leak. If it is leaking, the cap is venting. That can be caused by either 1) a faulty cap or 2) by the system pressure exceeding the cap limit and the cap venting as a result as intended. The latter can occur if you overheat or if there is air trapped in the system which can cause enough pressure to build when heated to burp coolant out the cap. And air could be there either from simply not getting it all out during initial fill or due to a leak somewhere.

Thanks for this info. I've noticed that if I shut the car off when it's hot out and start it back up right after, the temp gauge is 1-1.5 ticks over center. Within seconds it returns back to dead center though. I do know the 14" fan I have doesn't cool sufficiently in traffic in hot weather, and it gets ever so slightly above the center mark. Hopefully the new fan solves that problem.

I tried my best to bleed the system, but I wouldn't be surprised if there is an air pocket or two in the system still. My symptoms (slightly hot after shutdown) point towards air in the system still.

No leaks, I've verified that.

Hasn't gone past 1.5 ticks for more than a couple of seconds, so I'm not concerned that I may have damaged anything. But I would like to get it sorted as it gets me a bit worried when driving in traffic.

Wagonholic
04-04-2017, 04:16 PM
Yes! I'm sure ill be out there as well for shows/etc. Would like to make it out for SoCal euro again. Are you going to dyno it when its all dialed?

Also where do you get those federal tires? They look good for the price
I got them from Federal direct through a wholesaler here in LA. Completely worth the money, since they cost nothing lol.

I'll butt dyno it, but unless there's a dyno day or something I probably won't.


Great update, as for the diff carrier bushings I didn't need a press. You can either cut the old ones out or burn them out or use a vice to squeeze them out. Installation of the new bushings is super easy.

That's good to hear, what kind of bushings did you install? I got a set of 034 bushings for free (guy threw them in when I bought stuff from him) and they are stock replacements so they may need to be pressed in.

wbrunner23
04-04-2017, 08:04 PM
That's good to hear, what kind of bushings did you install? I got a set of 034 bushings for free (guy threw them in when I bought stuff from him) and they are stock replacements so they may need to be pressed in.

My diff carrier bushings were a pain in the ass to install! I was probably going about it the wrong way, but it was incredibly difficult to get the old bushings out. I ended up going to Firestone and working with the "tech" to press them out since he couldn't figure it out.

TBH, if I could go back (and I can, just haven't forked over the dough yet), I would stay with stock diff carrier bushings. I got a good amount of added gear noise from my rear diff during highway cruising with the stiffer bushes. I initially attributed the whine to the stern power ring I had, but I've since gone back to stock and it still whines. I can't say I noticed a big improvement or anything with them installed - maybe for launching, idk. I have 034 track density, iirc.

P.S. I don't mind the whine because racecar, but my wife can hear it too...[cool]

GramCracker
04-05-2017, 08:31 AM
Justin. Great job getting this thing torn down and then put back together. [up]

I'm in a similar situation - I've done my fair share of suspension work, timing belts, water pumps, etc...but I've never pulled the motor in one of these cars, let alone tear down an engine and rebuild it. Tearing down the engine is something I know I am fully capable of doing but it freaks me out that one little thing with a con-rod and I could fuck the motor on first turn over wasting all that time and new parts.

Looking back, how "easy" was this project in your eyes? Considering this was your first motor tear down and/or serious wrenching, what things did you learn along the way and what things would you do differently if you had to do it again?

Wagonholic
04-05-2017, 01:56 PM
My diff carrier bushings were a pain in the ass to install! I was probably going about it the wrong way, but it was incredibly difficult to get the old bushings out. I ended up going to Firestone and working with the "tech" to press them out since he couldn't figure it out.

TBH, if I could go back (and I can, just haven't forked over the dough yet), I would stay with stock diff carrier bushings. I got a good amount of added gear noise from my rear diff during highway cruising with the stiffer bushes. I initially attributed the whine to the stern power ring I had, but I've since gone back to stock and it still whines. I can't say I noticed a big improvement or anything with them installed - maybe for launching, idk. I have 034 track density, iirc.

P.S. I don't mind the whine because racecar, but my wife can hear it too...[cool]

My friend is a tech at a dealership, so I'm just going to take it over to him to sort it out. My bushings are completely shot...a visual look and the bushings are cracked and basically hanging out. They look like blown control arm bushings.

I get a noticeable clunk when coming off throttle, cancelling cruise control, shifting hard, or launching. This was evident even before I did the build, I just never got around to solving it. I suspected the Center Driveshaft Bearing, but it looks mint and in perfect condition. Every mount is upgraded except those bushings, and seems to be the only spot where any slop can occur. I have Stern Motor/Trans mounts and an Apikol rear diff mount.

I'm not too concerned about noise/vibration. Because racecar.

They are the 034 Diff Mount Carrier Bushings, and are rubber/OE-like. So they should be fine with noise. I just want to get rid of that clunk.
https://store.034motorsport.com/mount-diff-carrier-pair-b4-b5.html

Wagonholic
04-05-2017, 02:17 PM
Justin. Great job getting this thing torn down and then put back together. [up]

I'm in a similar situation - I've done my fair share of suspension work, timing belts, water pumps, etc...but I've never pulled the motor in one of these cars, let alone tear down an engine and rebuild it. Tearing down the engine is something I know I am fully capable of doing but it freaks me out that one little thing with a con-rod and I could fuck the motor on first turn over wasting all that time and new parts.

Looking back, how "easy" was this project in your eyes? Considering this was your first motor tear down and/or serious wrenching, what things did you learn along the way and what things would you do differently if you had to do it again?

This was my first motor pull and engine build too, so it was definitely a learning experience. I've done my fair share of suspension work, drivetrains, and such on both the B5 and other cars, so I felt pretty confident with my existing knowledge on these cars and decided to just dive into it. Looking back, the engine and subsequent internal work was probably the easiest part. Once I had finished the motor (which was honestly back in October), the little things, such as lines, control arms, random broken parts, and other things I decided to do is what ultimately caused the additional delays.

If you're doing anything major, the right tools are imperative to do a good job. One of those tools should be a friend that has done something similar before to give a second set of hands and eyes to ensure that everything is properly assembled. I would aim to keep the build as simple as possible, because even then, it's going to get fucking complicated as hell. Finally, it is also important to not constantly about worrying is something is done right or not. In the end, it'll probably be fine and work as intended. If it isn't, oh well. Sometimes things don't go as planned and you have to just deal with it. That is what comes with builds of this nature.

I originally intended this for this to be a summer project. Boy, was I wrong. Being a college student that works part time, life's obligations constantly come in the way. I know understand why the classifieds is full of unfinished hopes and dreams. It helps that my parents are car people too and didn't mind a disassembled car taking up half of the garage for almost 8 months. Which in reality, is nothing compared to how long I've seen some builds on here take.

I guess it is more applicable at my age, but it applies to everyone, to find out who your true friends are. I found that out firsthand throughout the project. I learned which of my friends were true friends, and which ones were just there for a free ride (no pun intended). It also really tests your friendship with someone when they weren't paying attention and accidentally lower the car onto your arm. Oops. Whatever happened, taking the car on that very first drive made everything worth it.

Overall, the physical aspect of the project (engine build, assembly, etc) was fairly easy. The hardest part is the emotional part--breaking things, losing motivation, and time. I'm honestly not sure what I'd change. Maybe I would've built the heads lol. Honestly, I was getting a bit crazy with the spending and had to draw the line somewhere. Whatever the case, this setup should provide me plenty of fun and power for several years to come.

Wagonholic
04-05-2017, 02:21 PM
I also picked up a perfectly working RNS-E for $250. Couldn't pass up the offer. Comes with radio code too.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170405/85acf4fe0f9a3d5eb68474b9efecf0b1.jpg

Unit is from a B7 A4, so the faceplate will need some modding. If it goes well, I could see if I can make it into a 3D print file since my buddy has a really nice printer at his office.

Need to get a harness too. Eventually figure out the CAN connections so I can have it show up in the DIS.

My car originally came equipped with Nav. So I had these nav controls in the center console. I have since removed them and replaced them with the pen tray.
Wonder if there is a way for it to work with the RNS-E?
http://i1160.photobucket.com/albums/q494/justinliew/6ysyjery_zpshgt2pjt0.jpg (http://s1160.photobucket.com/user/justinliew/media/6ysyjery_zpshgt2pjt0.jpg.html)

ElementR
04-05-2017, 05:29 PM
This was my first motor pull and engine build too, so it was definitely a learning experience. I've done my fair share of suspension work, drivetrains, and such on both the B5 and other cars, so I felt pretty confident with my existing knowledge on these cars and decided to just dive into it. Looking back, the engine and subsequent internal work was probably the easiest part. Once I had finished the motor (which was honestly back in October), the little things, such as lines, control arms, random broken parts, and other things I decided to do is what ultimately caused the additional delays.

If you're doing anything major, the right tools are imperative to do a good job. One of those tools should be a friend that has done something similar before to give a second set of hands and eyes to ensure that everything is properly assembled. I would aim to keep the build as simple as possible, because even then, it's going to get fucking complicated as hell. Finally, it is also important to not constantly about worrying is something is done right or not. In the end, it'll probably be fine and work as intended. If it isn't, oh well. Sometimes things don't go as planned and you have to just deal with it. That is what comes with builds of this nature.

I originally intended this for this to be a summer project. Boy, was I wrong. Being a college student that works part time, life's obligations constantly come in the way. I know understand why the classifieds is full of unfinished hopes and dreams. It helps that my parents are car people too and didn't mind a disassembled car taking up half of the garage for almost 8 months. Which in reality, is nothing compared to how long I've seen some builds on here take.

I guess it is more applicable at my age, but it applies to everyone, to find out who your true friends are. I found that out firsthand throughout the project. I learned which of my friends were true friends, and which ones were just there for a free ride (no pun intended). It also really tests your friendship with someone when they weren't paying attention and accidentally lower the car onto your arm. Oops. Whatever happened, taking the car on that very first drive made everything worth it.

Overall, the physical aspect of the project (engine build, assembly, etc) was fairly easy. The hardest part is the emotional part--breaking things, losing motivation, and time. I'm honestly not sure what I'd change. Maybe I would've built the heads lol. Honestly, I was getting a bit crazy with the spending and had to draw the line somewhere. Whatever the case, this setup should provide me plenty of fun and power for several years to come.

Was in your shoes 20 years ago. The frustrations don't end, but the joy and pride of doing it all yourself don't either.

Just think one day you might have a wife, a few kids, a home and a full time career and wonder how the heck you fit in the car hobby. It's hard to say I would change much either. Life's a ride and you've gotta enjoy it.

Dfloods4
04-05-2017, 05:31 PM
Real talk right there.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Wagonholic
04-05-2017, 10:29 PM
Was in your shoes 20 years ago. The frustrations don't end, but the joy and pride of doing it all yourself don't either.

Just think one day you might have a wife, a few kids, a home and a full time career and wonder how the heck you fit in the car hobby. It's hard to say I would change much either. Life's a ride and you've gotta enjoy it.
My dad told me the exact same thing. When I was younger, and E36 M3s were still new, my dad had bought one and boosted it. I remember as a young kid riding to school and getting in trouble with him. I remember all those times I spent helping him with his car. Since tuning was a lot different then, the turbo kits weren't as reliable, and he subsequently blew the engine. Twice. It goes back to exactly what you said, and I now know exactly why that car sat in our driveway for over 5 years after the second time it popped. That car is long gone, but the memories stay.

With all that goes on constantly in life, you never know when you may ever have another chance. It's best just to follow your heart and passions and figure out the rest. Maybe one day, when I'm older and have kids of my own, I'll enjoy seeing them build their own project car(s) in the garage.

Now that the (main) build is done (is it ever really finished?), my friends have asked what I'm going to do next. To be honest, I don't know. I'm not sure what my next project will be...if I'll even have a project. But one thing is certain--I'll be enjoying this one.

Real talk right there.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Thank you!

ElementR
04-06-2017, 06:20 AM
It's nice to be able to share the passion with your kids... something I've been fortunate enough to be able to do with mine. I have 2 boys and a girl and my youngest son (only 2) seems like he's the gearhead in the family already. And of course, my dad used to take me for rides shredding rubber in his built 1972 Maverick back in the days. The memories stick without a doubt.

Wagonholic
04-06-2017, 08:39 AM
It's nice to be able to share the passion with your kids... something I've been fortunate enough to be able to do with mine. I have 2 boys and a girl and my youngest son (only 2) seems like he's the gearhead in the family already. And of course, my dad used to take me for rides shredding rubber in his built 1972 Maverick back in the days. The memories stick without a doubt.

Life is too short to drive boring cars anyway. Some people will never know unfortunately ;)

GramCracker
04-06-2017, 01:49 PM
Lotta real talk ITT right now.


This was my first motor pull and engine build too, so it was definitely a learning experience. I've done my fair share of suspension work, drivetrains, and such on both the B5 and other cars, so I felt pretty confident with my existing knowledge on these cars and decided to just dive into it. Looking back, the engine and subsequent internal work was probably the easiest part. Once I had finished the motor (which was honestly back in October), the little things, such as lines, control arms, random broken parts, and other things I decided to do is what ultimately caused the additional delays.

If you're doing anything major, the right tools are imperative to do a good job. One of those tools should be a friend that has done something similar before to give a second set of hands and eyes to ensure that everything is properly assembled. I would aim to keep the build as simple as possible, because even then, it's going to get fucking complicated as hell. Finally, it is also important to not constantly about worrying is something is done right or not. In the end, it'll probably be fine and work as intended. If it isn't, oh well. Sometimes things don't go as planned and you have to just deal with it. That is what comes with builds of this nature.

I originally intended this for this to be a summer project. Boy, was I wrong. Being a college student that works part time, life's obligations constantly come in the way. I know understand why the classifieds is full of unfinished hopes and dreams. It helps that my parents are car people too and didn't mind a disassembled car taking up half of the garage for almost 8 months. Which in reality, is nothing compared to how long I've seen some builds on here take.

I guess it is more applicable at my age, but it applies to everyone, to find out who your true friends are. I found that out firsthand throughout the project. I learned which of my friends were true friends, and which ones were just there for a free ride (no pun intended). It also really tests your friendship with someone when they weren't paying attention and accidentally lower the car onto your arm. Oops. Whatever happened, taking the car on that very first drive made everything worth it.

Overall, the physical aspect of the project (engine build, assembly, etc) was fairly easy. The hardest part is the emotional part--breaking things, losing motivation, and time. I'm honestly not sure what I'd change. Maybe I would've built the heads lol. Honestly, I was getting a bit crazy with the spending and had to draw the line somewhere. Whatever the case, this setup should provide me plenty of fun and power for several years to come.

I'm a little bit older than you, 28, and have 2-3 really close friends who I could count on. I also, fortunately, have the time for the car to sit if I go the route of taking it apart - rushing something like this I can only imagine gets you up shit's creek without a paddle real quick. Thanks for the insights, much appreciated. Sounds like something I should man up and take on in the near future.

CJ_
04-06-2017, 02:01 PM
Wow some great reading/real talk up in here. What are you studying in school if you don't mind me asking?

Wagonholic
04-06-2017, 04:31 PM
Lotta real talk ITT right now.

I'm a little bit older than you, 28, and have 2-3 really close friends who I could count on. I also, fortunately, have the time for the car to sit if I go the route of taking it apart - rushing something like this I can only imagine gets you up shit's creek without a paddle real quick. Thanks for the insights, much appreciated. Sounds like something I should man up and take on in the near future.
I'm 19, so naturally my closest friends I can count on are around my age as well. Most are in college/part time working of some sort, and one is a senior in high school still. It's nice to know that I can count on any of them not only for car related stuff, but that we all have have each other's backs whenever necessary.

Definitely a project you should consider, if you have the time and space. Every time I walk out to my car now, I don't just see a car. I see all those moments over the past couple of months I've been fortunate to share with my friends (and family).


Wow some great reading/real talk up in here. What are you studying in school if you don't mind me asking?
Currently working in the direction of Economics. Perhaps I'll possibly branch off into something more specialized, but for now Econ gives me plenty of career options post-graduation. I originally started as an ME major, but decided that wasn't the direction I wanted to go. If all goes well I'll probably transfer back to a 4-year university of some sort this fall.

Just taking it as it goes...[:)]

Wagonholic
04-06-2017, 04:39 PM
Had a spontaneous photoshoot with my friend yesterday. Love how well they came out.

Please give him a follow on Instagram. @dajoker_photography

http://i1160.photobucket.com/albums/q494/justinliew/S4%20Photoshoots/IMG_7821_zpsdld9eybx.jpg (http://s1160.photobucket.com/user/justinliew/media/S4%20Photoshoots/IMG_7821_zpsdld9eybx.jpg.html)
http://i1160.photobucket.com/albums/q494/justinliew/S4%20Photoshoots/IMG_7819_zpsxkjf1zqk.jpg (http://s1160.photobucket.com/user/justinliew/media/S4%20Photoshoots/IMG_7819_zpsxkjf1zqk.jpg.html)
http://i1160.photobucket.com/albums/q494/justinliew/S4%20Photoshoots/IMG_7818_zps5itgeumr.jpg (http://s1160.photobucket.com/user/justinliew/media/S4%20Photoshoots/IMG_7818_zps5itgeumr.jpg.html)
http://i1160.photobucket.com/albums/q494/justinliew/S4%20Photoshoots/IMG_7820_zpsouuo6o3f.jpg (http://s1160.photobucket.com/user/justinliew/media/S4%20Photoshoots/IMG_7820_zpsouuo6o3f.jpg.html)
http://i1160.photobucket.com/albums/q494/justinliew/S4%20Photoshoots/IMG_7817_zpscxvkoma1.jpg (http://s1160.photobucket.com/user/justinliew/media/S4%20Photoshoots/IMG_7817_zpscxvkoma1.jpg.html)
http://i1160.photobucket.com/albums/q494/justinliew/S4%20Photoshoots/IMG_7825_zpsxpsbdd1i.jpg (http://s1160.photobucket.com/user/justinliew/media/S4%20Photoshoots/IMG_7825_zpsxpsbdd1i.jpg.html)

CJ_
04-06-2017, 07:05 PM
I'm 19, so naturally my closest friends I can count on are around my age as well. Most are in college/part time working of some sort, and one is a senior in high school still. It's nice to know that I can count on any of them not only for car related stuff, but that we all have have each other's backs whenever necessary.

Definitely a project you should consider, if you have the time and space. Every time I walk out to my car now, I don't just see a car. I see all those moments over the past couple of months I've been fortunate to share with my friends (and family).


Currently working in the direction of Economics. Perhaps I'll possibly branch off into something more specialized, but for now Econ gives me plenty of career options post-graduation. I originally started as an ME major, but decided that wasn't the direction I wanted to go. If all goes well I'll probably transfer back to a 4-year university of some sort this fall.

Just taking it as it goes...[:)]

Nice yeah, I did the opposite, I started as a finance major and decided thats not what I wanted to do, so I went into ME. Finishing up this May, stoked to be done lol.

Cars looking real good man!

mike82caddy
04-06-2017, 08:33 PM
Great work man can't wait to see it in person. Hopefully my build doesn't take to long so I could go to some of the socal b5 meets again

Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk

landfill
04-06-2017, 08:40 PM
Everyone on here seems to have trouble
with the coolant and bleeding etc. Snap-on has a vaccum filler for not even $200.
Ever since I bought it and been using it I haven't had to bleed the cooling system in a single car. Money well spent IMO...

Wagonholic
04-06-2017, 08:55 PM
Nice yeah, I did the opposite, I started as a finance major and decided thats not what I wanted to do, so I went into ME. Finishing up this May, stoked to be done lol.

Cars looking real good man!
Congrats on making it to the end. Definitely an accomplishment. I'm currently a sophomore, and I'll probably lose a couple of credits when I transfer so I'll probably have at least 2 years left. I eventually plan to go into something such as investment banking.


Great work man can't wait to see it in person. Hopefully my build doesn't take to long so I could go to some of the socal b5 meets again

Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk
Haven't seen you since SoCal Euro 2015! Great to see that you're doing a build as well. Never would forget that time when I was racing that tuned B8 S4 and we lost you as you were behind us filming lol.


Everyone on here seems to have trouble
with the coolant and bleeding etc. Snap-on has a vaccum filler for not even $200.
Ever since I bought it and been using it I haven't had to bleed the cooling system in a single car. Money well spent IMO...

I usually don't have a problem bleeding this car. This time I had put the car back together quickly so perhaps I didn't bleed it completely because I was rushing it slightly lol.

I've been eyeing this though to help aid in bleeding coolant...http://www.ebay.com/itm/AUTO-ENGINE-VACUUM-COOLANT-COOLING-SYSTEM-Radiator-Kit-Refill-Purging-Tools-/332165936668

mike82caddy
04-06-2017, 08:59 PM
Honestly man that was the first time I seen what a stage 3 could do. Since then I've been collecting parts here and there. Just when I thought I would be able to keep up but at least I'll be a able to keep up to the car that your passing lmao

Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk

ElementR
04-07-2017, 04:54 AM
Easiest way to bleed car is to crack heater hose under cowl screen so small hole on top can vent (you don't fully remove hose from heater core). Then fill through coolant bottle, let settle, fill again, let settle and repeat until full and chances are you will see a little coolant trickle out the heater hose vent. Now push heater hose on fully, tighten clamp and warm her up. I usually do this with a funnel still in place on the coolant bottle so things can expand a bit and air can burp out of the bottle easily. Once warmed up, rev engine around 2000 rpm with heater on full blast for a few minutes. Now shut her down and let things cool completely. Go back and check level in bottle and top off as necessary. Screw cap on bottle and you're done. I've never had issues by following this.

Wagonholic
04-07-2017, 01:09 PM
Easiest way to bleed car is to crack heater hose under cowl screen so small hole on top can vent (you don't fully remove hose from heater core). Then fill through coolant bottle, let settle, fill again, let settle and repeat until full and chances are you will see a little coolant trickle out the heater hose vent. Now push heater hose on fully, tighten clamp and warm her up. I usually do this with a funnel still in place on the coolant bottle so things can expand a bit and air can burp out of the bottle easily. Once warmed up, rev engine around 2000 rpm with heater on full blast for a few minutes. Now shut her down and let things cool completely. Go back and check level in bottle and top off as necessary. Screw cap on bottle and you're done. I've never had issues by following this.

I'll give this a shot this weekend. New 16" EFK comes in today so it looks like it's service position again!
(I guess the silver lining is that I can get the car in the service position in roughly 20 minutes at this point lol)

Drehmoment
04-07-2017, 03:06 PM
Bleeding the coolant system ? Airlift=Done in a couple of minutes, would not touch a vehicle without it.

https://www.amazon.com/UView-550000-Airlift-Cooling-Checker/dp/B0002SRH5G/ref=sr_1_2?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1491602880&sr=1-2&keywords=airlift+bleeder

Wagonholic
04-17-2017, 10:35 PM
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170418/603d817b8159be2f61fb7205f53de12a.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170418/a2c800e4cdc0f913d30d146ea2f6706f.jpg

They said a 16" fan wouldn't fit...well I made the damn thing fit lol. Lots of cutting (mostly of the fan shroud) and a small portion of the core support and it fits like a glove.

Bled the coolant system as well, and while it's been warm here the past couple of days the car doesn't even go past the halfway mark idling in traffic.

Ditched the Hayden fan thermostat and wired it in like the JHM EFK instead. Much simpler.

Not bad for $40 with Prime shipping on Amazon lol.

Finished breaking in the motor as well, swapped back to synthetic and the motor is running nice and smooth. Hit redline a couple of times (part throttle) and the car enjoyed it :)

Monty23
04-18-2017, 05:55 AM
I wonder if I'm the only one with a built motor that still runs the OEM mechanical fan LOL, Looks good man!

Wagonholic
04-18-2017, 01:02 PM
I wonder if I'm the only one with a built motor that still runs the OEM mechanical fan LOL, Looks good man!

Main reason I went with an EFK is that my WDR bi-pipe wouldn't fit without excessive trimming of the OEM mechanical fan.

Since it's wired to the air conditioner/temperature signal wire, having it run for a couple minutes post-shutdown with the afterrun pump is a nice bonus as well.

Audimilo
05-22-2017, 08:26 PM
I've never pulled the motor in one of these cars


Rookie.

thats part of B5 Life.


[wrench]

[>_<]

Wagonholic
05-23-2017, 05:50 PM
Rookie.

thats part of B5 Life.


[wrench]

[>_<]

Lol motor pull #2 is happening in the next couple of weeks. For reasons.

But...motor has surpassed 1200 miles and is healthy. Pulls hard and strong, burns zero oil. But a small weep of oil on the passenger cam seal because I slightly nicked the surface when doing the seal [headbang]

jaychen
08-05-2018, 05:06 AM
Long ass time to pull the motor a 2nd time [;)]

mikeb17
08-05-2018, 02:58 PM
I wonder if I'm the only one with a built motor that still runs the OEM mechanical fan LOL, Looks good man!

Ive always ran it with mine haha. Youre not going to get a fan that flows more air. Im not deleting it for the negligible hp gains haha.

diabolical1
08-05-2018, 09:50 PM
Great read. Amazing that I never happened across this thread before. Nothing beats the sound of hearing a motor you've built come to life.

CJ_
08-07-2018, 04:37 PM
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170418/603d817b8159be2f61fb7205f53de12a.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170418/a2c800e4cdc0f913d30d146ea2f6706f.jpg



Correct me if Im wrong, but isn't the fan mounting the wrong way? looks to me like the blades need to be flipped