35k Service. Brake change suggestions.

[Silver_Sol]

Hey guys,

So I'm looking for some suggestions on what I should go for given my scenario.

Took my 2013 B8.5 S4 in for 35k service (Covered under Audi Care).

I get a call from the SA and they informed me that my brakes need to be changed. Apparently the pads are down to 5mm, and according to the SA the rotors cant be resurfaced and would need to be replaced.
Got quoted approximately $1000 for the Front Pads and Rotors and $900 for the rear pads and rotors. Looking at over $2000 out the door.

So according to the SA my brakes should last me till my next Scheduled Maintenance but at that price I am considering my options if i were to source replacement parts myself and going aftermarket.

Now I use my S4 as a daily driver (about 10 miles round trip commuting to and from work) and maybe the occasional spirited driving (highway onramps and highway pulls on people)

Wanted to get input on what particular parts I should consider replacing them with.

What I would like from these new parts is Low Noise and Brake Dust, Similar Braking performance (or better), and enough longevity (given my driving habits) to last another 35k miles if not longer. No planned track days for this car in the future.

So far I am thinking of going for Akebono Ceramic Brake Pads
https://www.ecstuning.com/Audi-B8_S4-Quattro-3.0T/Braking/Pads/ES2763651/
I hear good things about the low dust and braking performance.

But I am a little unsure what I should go for in terms of rotors.
Lightweight 2pc rotors sound interesting. But been reading on other threads that drilled rotors can be prone to cracking.
What options have you guys gone with for rotors or recommend? How many miles have you put on them? Considering they're asking $2000 for Pads and Rotors + Fluid and installation Are there any particular rotors that would give me better value and performance?

Appreciate any input you guys have.

[bizzy]

Since you said you don't track, I wouldn't worry about the rotors cracking. Based on what I've read on these forums and other sites it's a moot point. Different story if you track your car hard.

You have a lot of options for rotors, just depends on what you're looking for. JHM make lightweight rotors that seem to be highly regarded, but they're pricey. I have the Stoptech drilled rotors and am happy with them but I'll likely be getting the ECS two piece rotors (https://www.ecstuning.com/ES2681113/?gclid=Cj0KEQjwrZ24BRC098fr-OqnuMkBEiQAKQ9lgO9ChJ6yE7mSWi6F4C0WAydOD1okR4xqi_v MhNha6p8aAtcA8P8HAQ) next. ECS makes cheaper rotors too if you don't feel like spending that much. Consider getting stainless brake lines too.

I also have the Akebono pads and have nothing but good things to say about them. I've only had them on for ~10k miles or so, so I can't really comment on their longevity, but they seem to be holding up well. At any rate, NEVER pay for new pads and rotors from the dealer, it is an absolute ripoff. Hope this helps.

[TheLetterJay]

I had the dreaded brake squeal issue, so I put Akebono pads up front and for non track use I like em'. I'll be doing the rears next week.

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[14S4GWM]

Akebonos here on stock rotors and they feel great.

[Kczach]

You aren't going to get "better" performance and less brake dust. I switched to Akebonos and stock rotors. They don't have the initial bite but after they bed in they aren't too much different feel from oem. If you are doing a lot of stop and go driving it is really nice not having to clean your wheels on a weekly basis.

[treejs4]

Since you said you don't track, I wouldn't worry about the rotors cracking. Based on what I've read on these forums and other sites it's a moot point. Different story if you track your car hard.

Is "moot" the buzz word of the week or something?! Third time I've randomly seen it being used on the forum in the past few days and before that have never seen it used. Lol

[bizzy]

Is "moot" the buzz word of the week or something?! Third time I've randomly seen it being used on the forum in the past few days and before that have never seen it used. Lol

lolwut

[will13k7]

Consider getting stainless brake lines too.

+1 I have the ECS ones, makes such a difference in braking feel.

[JMUNFORD]

+1 I have the ECS ones, makes such a difference in braking feel.

Are they easy to install ?

[Silver_Sol]

Since you said you don't track, I wouldn't worry about the rotors cracking. Based on what I've read on these forums and other sites it's a moot point. Different story if you track your car hard.

You have a lot of options for rotors, just depends on what you're looking for. JHM make lightweight rotors that seem to be highly regarded, but they're pricey. I have the Stoptech drilled rotors and am happy with them but I'll likely be getting the ECS two piece rotors (https://www.ecstuning.com/ES2681113/?gclid=Cj0KEQjwrZ24BRC098fr-OqnuMkBEiQAKQ9lgO9ChJ6yE7mSWi6F4C0WAydOD1okR4xqi_v MhNha6p8aAtcA8P8HAQ) next. ECS makes cheaper rotors too if you don't feel like spending that much. Consider getting stainless brake lines too.

I also have the Akebono pads and have nothing but good things to say about them. I've only had them on for ~10k miles or so, so I can't really comment on their longevity, but they seem to be holding up well. At any rate, NEVER pay for new pads and rotors from the dealer, it is an absolute ripoff. Hope this helps.

Good point about Drilled Rotors only being a problem on track. In that sense im thinking of going for the ECS Rotor set for all four brakes
Probably this Guy (https://www.ecstuning.com/Audi-B8_S4-Quattro-3.0T/Braking/Performance/ES2960509/)

In terms of the dealer saying that the rotors need replacement in the first place, is that just the dealer trying to hustle me you guys think? should i get a second opinion? Cause I hardly push my car that hard, and when the SA mentioned that they can't be resurfaced she wasnt specific about whether that was because there was a lack of material on the rotor (too thin for resurfacing) or they were warped, or is it that our rotors needing to be replaced with pads is common?





I had the dreaded brake squeal issue, so I put Akebono pads up front and for non track use I like em'. I'll be doing the rears next week.

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You aren't going to get "better" performance and less brake dust. I switched to Akebonos and stock rotors. They don't have the initial bite but after they bed in they aren't too much different feel from oem. If you are doing a lot of stop and go driving it is really nice not having to clean your wheels on a weekly basis.

I assume you guys didn't need to replace the rotors when you did did you? Did you decide to replace them when they started squealing or did you get the "reccomendation" from a SA like me?




+1 I have the ECS ones, makes such a difference in braking feel.

Just the ECS lines? or the rotors too by chance?





On another note anyone give these rotors a try? ECS Geomet (https://www.ecstuning.com/Audi-B8_S4-Quattro-3.0T/Braking/Performance/ES3028729/)

[will13k7]

Are they easy to install ?
If you know how to bleed your brakes, yes. I didn't install them though, I'm pretty lazy these days.


Just the ECS lines? or the rotors too by chance?
I went with the JHMs since I wanted just slotted rotors.
https://c2.staticflickr.com/2/1550/26226548742_db857fe04f_k.jpg

[TheLetterJay]

I feel like my rotors will last for another year at the very least, but we'll see when it's time for my 35k service (currently @ 28k).

I actually came off my OEM pads early (I don't believe I reached 15k at the time) because the noise irritated me.
My SA changed the front rotors to make sure that wasn't the issue, and I swapped the pads a couple of weeks after.

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[Johnnycash]

akebono pads are da bomb!

did my fronts about a year ago, and doing my rears at my next service, not because they are worn but only because my rears get super dirty compared to the fronts...

my only regret is not doing them all at once

[TheLetterJay]

akebono pads are da bomb!

did my fronts about a year ago, and doing my rears at my next service, not because they are worn but only because my rears get super dirty compared to the fronts...

my only regret is not doing them all at once
Exactly what I should've done....

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[bizzy]

I seriously doubt you actually need new rotors and pads at only 35k miles, unless you do some really hard stops constantly lol. Dealers are notorious for trying to get people to do useless repairs, stay away from them imo.

Visually check the thickness of the pads and rotors and ensure there's no cracking. I swapped mine out just to get rid of the squeal and dust. Felt really shitty getting such horrible squeal on a car like this lol.

[usmc1994]

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160409/ba7613704bf40c35f23a35821b5d9bfa.jpghawk brake pads and ECS 2 piece rotors just done this week


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[MrFunk]

^^
You can get ECS 2 piece light weight front and rear rotors for about 1k. Then get your pads of choice... I went with RedStuff pads for $180 front and rear... Labor will vary but you should be able to get this installed for 3 hours labor rate. Really should be more like 2 hours though.
If you want you can do the ECS SS lines while you're at it which cost $115... fluid will be about 20-30 bucks... labor on that should be 1-2 hours... So for what the dealership quoted, you can get an upgraded system.

[PCHS4]

Also check out GiroDisc, they are an OEM manufacturer for Porsche and other fine vehicles. Have mine for almost 1 year now and they have been great. Combined with Endless front pads the braking is night and day from OEM. Bought the whole setup, front rotors, Endless MX72 pads, rear StopTech pads, SS front and rear brake lines, and Endless brake fluid for less than $1300.

http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/522170-INTRODUCING-Girodisc-2-Piece-Floating-Front-Rotors-for-B8-S4-S5?p=10753130&viewfull=1#post10753130

[Dr GP]

I put on Stoptech ceramics and OEM rotors. ANY brand of ceramic pads will be a huge improvement. The squeal and dust will be gone. Akebonos, Weaerver gold will do the job as well.

[Silver_Sol]

I seriously doubt you actually need new rotors and pads at only 35k miles, unless you do some really hard stops constantly lol. Dealers are notorious for trying to get people to do useless repairs, stay away from them imo.

Visually check the thickness of the pads and rotors and ensure there's no cracking. I swapped mine out just to get rid of the squeal and dust. Felt really shitty getting such horrible squeal on a car like this lol.

I was having my doubts as well when they gave me a call. Just in the last few months braked squealed like crazy when cold (just figured it needed some time to warm up just like during the winter time) and a couple times when I had to brake hard (avoiding cars or such) I noticed a slight vibration and pull toward the right side. Took a buds caliper to the rotors and found that both fronts are down to 28 and rears down to 20mm. The edges of the rotors have some pretty defined ridges where the pads weren't in contact with the rotor so they seem to be appropriate for replacement. I am seriously puzzled as to why they got so worn down, most aggressive thing I did was took it up in some nearby mountain routes following my buddy on his CBR600 but aside from that just normal day to day driving :/





http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160409/ba7613704bf40c35f23a35821b5d9bfa.jpghawk brake pads and ECS 2 piece rotors just done this week


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^^
You can get ECS 2 piece light weight front and rear rotors for about 1k. Then get your pads of choice... I went with RedStuff pads for $180 front and rear... Labor will vary but you should be able to get this installed for 3 hours labor rate. Really should be more like 2 hours though.
If you want you can do the ECS SS lines while you're at it which cost $115... fluid will be about 20-30 bucks... labor on that should be 1-2 hours... So for what the dealership quoted, you can get an upgraded system.


So been thinking about it now, and figured im gonna go for ECS' wavy slotted and drilled rotors that comes with the braided lines and fluid (~$1500) and some akebonos. Figure I might as well go up a notch if im replacing them.
https://www.ecstuning.com/Audi-B8_S4-Quattro-3.0T/Braking/Performance/ES2960542/



Do you guys think i should get replacement Caliper bolts? I think i read somewhere that when you replace the pads/rotors and have the calipers off its a good habit to replace those with fresh ones as they haven't been subjected to so much heat. If so does anyone have the Part# for fronts and rears?

[PCHS4]

I seriously doubt you actually need new rotors and pads at only 35k miles, unless you do some really hard stops constantly lol.

My rotors were pretty badly dished at 32K miles with only street driving.

[Vanimal]

Did you not get the warning your pads had less than 20% life or whatever it is? I need to take my wheels off here soon & check mine now that it's warm here.

My car came with upgraded 2 piece ECS tuning slotted & drilled rotors. They are $1200 for all 4 so I certainly don't want to ruin them. I've put about 8k on the car since I bought it last July. Checking the pads is or has been on the to do list lol.


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[PCHS4]

I didn't get a warning. I don't think the pads were finished yet based on a visual inspection. I was running the original OEM rotors and pads and had planned to do an upgrade sooner, just never got around to it. My mechanic didn't think it was that unusual that they were dished. Maybe all the OEM rotors do that. I don't think the dealers turn them, so maybe they are designed to wear out like that.

[TexasDfwS4]

Just replaced my squeaky brakes and found that the passenger side pads were cracked in half both inner and outer pad. I replaced with Akebonos and wow what a difference. I had the squeal from the start but at first it was just in cold weather and then at the end last month they didn't stop squealing, so I decided the replace and glad I did. 28,600 miles. My wife's Q5 had the same issue with the squeaky brakes and when the 25,000 service was due the stealership said the routers and pads needed replacement but the Indy shop said the the routers were fine. I believe if the dealers would just try to work with the customer they would not lose so many repeat customers.

[fitzydude]

My front pads were cracked in the center too and squeaking. Replaced with Akebono pads and I love them so far.

I decided to try something different when I had to replace my rear pads and rotors. I ordered Bendix rotors off Rockauto for $40 a piece. The quality looks good and they've been working great so far! The total cost for pads and rotors on the rear axle was $130.

[TLB]

Also check out GiroDisc, they are an OEM manufacturer for Porsche and other fine vehicles. Have mine for almost 1 year now and they have been great. Combined with Endless front pads the braking is night and day from OEM. Bought the whole setup, front rotors, Endless MX72 pads, rear StopTech pads, SS front and rear brake lines, and Endless brake fluid for less than $1300.

http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/522170-INTRODUCING-Girodisc-2-Piece-Floating-Front-Rotors-for-B8-S4-S5?p=10753130&viewfull=1#post10753130

Any particular reason you did not go with endless mx72 rear brake pads?
I am thinking about upgrading to girodisc
and endless mx72 front and rear ( stick rear rotors). I saw freak speed usa have them. Any other places to get it?

[PCHS4]

Any particular reason you did not go with endless mx72 rear brake pads?
I am thinking about upgrading to girodisc
and endless mx72 front and rear ( stick rear rotors). I saw freak speed usa have them. Any other places to get it?

Basically, there is very little braking going on in the rear and StopTechs are a better match for balance. Talk to Anish or Matt at SpeedFreaks and they will answer all your questions. They treated me very well, great service, price, shipping. They won't try to sell you a bunch of parts you don't need. Would not hesitate to recommend them.

[jzinckgra]

Did I read somewhere that you need vagcomm to do your own brake/rotors?

[jimrobbington]

Did I read somewhere that you need vagcomm to do your own brake/rotors?
Only because of the electronic parking brake. Need to use VAG Com to retract/reset the piston in the rear I believe

[jzinckgra]

Only because of the electronic parking brake. Need to use VAG Com to retract/reset the piston in the rear I believe
How easy is it to use and which vagcom tool would I need for basic stuff?

[jimrobbington]

How easy is it to use and which vagcom tool would I need for basic stuff?
Good question. I don't personally have one. I believe others have said the $20 Carista app will work too!

[14S4GWM]

Good question. I don't personally have one. I believe others have said the $20 Carista app will work too!

Must be on beta for Carista to do it. Carista will be easier then vcds.

[bhvrdr]

From what you have posted you are looking for:
longevity
reduced brake dust
OEM performance or better
low noise

I would do a good ceramic pad on a high quality blank rotor disc with a very high quality fluid.

I would NOT do a slotted or drilled rotor if longevity is a desire. They will reduce pad life upwards of 50% depending on braking habits. They can have a bit of vibration as well.

I would NOT do a 2 piece rotor based on your desires. A 2 piece rotor is more costly for no performance gain assuming as you stated you are doing normal street driving. The cost of replacement is higher and not many 2 piece rotors offer blank discs which is what you want.


So a recommendation for your needs would be:

Akebono Euro Ceramic - $75 pair [EDIT - thanks for the price check fitydude]
Pagid High Carbon Rotors - $160 pair
Motul DOT 5.1 Fluid - $20 for 1 liter (2, 1/2 liter containers)
Total: ~$280 shipped

That's it.

Mike

[jimrobbington]

What about EBC rotors?

http://m.autoanything.com/brakes/ebc-premium-rotors?kc=ffprod&k_clickid=c586f3fe-e4df-40f9-9fff-9295f98f8de2&adgroupid=5399&k_trackingid=274x77213337488&kpid=10221-10785-3442056&productid=77213337488&gclid=Cj0KEQjwrte4BRD-oYi3y5_AhZ4BEiQAzIFxn-FR34lzMJUeC7umdT16tB3zhHCg38-W2nQ2qxpPmuwaAs-48P8HAQ

[fitzydude]

Akebono Euro Ceramic - $112 pair

Ouch! Where are you buying your akebono's?

I found 70 fronts and 50 rears. Or is that the price for front and rear?

[bhvrdr]

They're probably fine but i'm just not a gigantic fan of EBC. They seem to have some decent pads and then some other models of pads that are known for chunking and separating from the backing plate. I just feel there are plenty of other more consistent options to choose from.

Pagid High Carbon rotors should be extremely high quality. If you were looking to go more budget oriented (which I would have no problem doing) while still decent quality there are Raybestos at $140 per pair. I've even run the centric advanced on the Civic for tracking and I really like their black coating on the hub and the face of the cooling vanes. It keeps them nice and pretty.

Mike

[bhvrdr]

Ouch! Where are you buying your akebono's?

I found 70 fronts and 50 rears. Or is that the price for front and rear?

good catch. thanks man.

[Silver_Sol]

From what you have posted you are looking for:
longevity
reduced brake dust
OEM performance or better
low noise

I would do a good ceramic pad on a high quality blank rotor disc with a very high quality fluid.

I would NOT do a slotted or drilled rotor if longevity is a desire. They will reduce pad life upwards of 50% depending on braking habits. They can have a bit of vibration as well.

I would NOT do a 2 piece rotor based on your desires. A 2 piece rotor is more costly for no performance gain assuming as you stated you are doing normal street driving. The cost of replacement is higher and not many 2 piece rotors offer blank discs which is what you want.


So a recommendation for your needs would be:

Akebono Euro Ceramic - $75 pair [EDIT - thanks for the price check fitydude]
Pagid High Carbon Rotors - $160 pair
Motul DOT 5.1 Fluid - $20 for 1 liter (2, 1/2 liter containers)
Total: ~$280 shipped

That's it.

Mike


Thanks. Now that I'm thinking about it, 2pc rotors aren't worth the addition cost considering the type of driving I do.
Do you have a link to a vendor where i can check out the Pagid High Carbon Rotors?
I think i found the ones on RockAuto, but looking at the link it appears they sell each rotor separately
(http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/audi,2013,s4,3.0l+v6+supercharged,1504515,brake/wheel+hub,rotor,1896?a=Referer+www.hella.com+URL+% 2F)
So i'd have to go for 2 fronts and 2 rears correct?

[bhvrdr]

Thanks. Now that I'm thinking about it, 2pc rotors aren't worth the addition cost considering the type of driving I do.
Do you have a link to a vendor where i can check out the Pagid High Carbon Rotors?
I think i found the ones on RockAuto, but looking at the link it appears they sell each rotor separately
(http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/audi,2013,s4,3.0l+v6+supercharged,1504515,brake/wheel+hub,rotor,1896?a=Referer+www.hella.com+URL+% 2F)
So i'd have to go for 2 fronts and 2 rears correct?

Those are the ones. You may want to check to see if your rear brakes need replacing now. Sometimes they can last through two fronts.

mike

[Salvaje]

My pads just costs me $150 and took me 30 min to installhttp://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160420/9dc3e0cd7450ad5016a918f607d340c7.jpg


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[DKo5]

My fronts have started squealing like crazy, and at 26k I'm over the brake dust. Mike, would your recommendation stand for someone who might hit the track or autocross once or twice a year for fun? As much as I'd love to get a sharp looking BBK my frugal side loves the cost of your suggestion.

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[bhvrdr]

My fronts have started squealing like crazy, and at 26k I'm over the brake dust. Mike, would your recommendation stand for someone who might hit the track or autocross once or twice a year for fun? As much as I'd love to get a sharp looking BBK my frugal side loves the cost of your suggestion.

Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk

I would say that depends on your values. If you value braking performance more than clean wheels, i'd go with a dusty as heck stoptech street performace pad but if you value clean wheels, sure, no problem sticking with the akebono. They're cheap enough to replace and there's no reason they should chunk on you if you go a bit easy on them at a rare HPDE.

I would, however, suggest you might want to upgrade from Motul DOT 5.1 to an even higher performance brake fluid, such as Motul RBF660 or Castrol SRF and change that out annually. Good fluid is worth its weight in gold as is making sure you are running lap days with alot of pad material left on the pad. Dont go to one at 30% or less IMO.

Mike

[BigBluu]

+1 I have the ECS ones, makes such a difference in braking feel.

Regarding SS lines...noticeable difference in daily driving, track, or both? The stock lines seem to be pretty solid and stiff to me. I'd figure fluid would make more of a difference. Planning to attend my first track event next month and just flushing the fluid to RBF 600 while keeping the lines stock. Will see how that goes before upgrading to SS.

[bhvrdr]

Regarding SS lines...noticeable difference in daily driving, track, or both? The stock lines seem to be pretty solid and stiff to me. I'd figure fluid would make more of a difference. Planning to attend my first track event next month and just flushing the fluid to RBF 600 while keeping the lines stock. Will see how that goes before upgrading to SS.

Fluid is the bang for the buck. The need to upgrade to SS lines is debatable with some experts suggesting that the newer quality OEM lines are pretty much as stiff as some of the aftermarket SS ones out there and then consider the possibility of increased failures with SS lines. I tend to go OEM on the lines unless I dont have an option because of a custom brake setup or BBK. That's just me. Plenty of people run them with no issue. I would, however, suggest inspecting them periodically.

Mike