Calling 6mt owners - quick question

[Hofahome]

When you start your car in the am, how long do your revs hang up? Been having issues with the 6mt needing the clutch pressed in harder to start (replacing clutch soon btw). Revs hang at about 1200 for 15-20 sec then drop slowly over next 15 sec and settle to around 7-800. Not weather dependent. I can't tell if this is new or I am crazy and it has been doing it all along but I never noticed.

[hyetiko]

When you start your car in the am, how long do your revs hang up? Been having issues with the 6mt needing the clutch pressed in harder to start (replacing clutch soon btw). Revs hang at about 1200 for 15-20 sec then drop slowly over next 15 sec and settle to around 7-800. Not weather dependent. I can't tell if this is new or I am crazy and it has been doing it all along but I never noticed.

Pretty sure mine does it everytime I start up in the am, revs stay above 1000 longer when it's colder outside.

[ruamit03]

Pretty sure mine does it everytime I start up in the am, revs stay above 1000 longer when it's colder outside.

same here.

[Hofahome]

Alright..phew. Crazy it is then. Thx guys

[Tur]

Yup. Every time.

[eurotic]

Mine usually hang longer than that...I want to say a full minute but maybe it's 45 seconds. For me it does seem to be weather dependent though with colder days being a longer hang. But when it drops it usually drops pretty quick, maybe 5-8 seconds. Again the colder is it the slower it drops.

[collins4]

"Cold" starts away have RPMS hang higher for a bit.

Isn't this a norm for almost all cars? My B7 was an auto and it did this too

[Oloung1]

Again the colder is it the slower it drops.
the weather is always +60f here and mine does it regardless of cool or warm temps in the morning. it takes longer to drop rpms
for cooler weather but it still revs high when its summer time.


Isn't this a norm for almost all cars? My B7 was an auto and it did this too
most recent cars ive owned within the last 2 decades have been doing. the smaller the engine, the less you will notice. same goes with your exhaust.

[mmm def]

Yeah you are crazy. It's normal. :)

[sonic32]

From what I remember it stays revved for a longer period of time to warm up the cats asap for emissions. That's valid for any new car that has to pass EPA's ridiculous laws


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[A.C.]

Mine as well. 2nd owner same clutch with 92k on the clock

[S4Drew]

Same. Runs around 1200-1300 RPM for 30-40 secs, then drops to around 700 over the course of a few seconds.

I always let my cars idle down before driving. Makes me insane when other drivers don't. In the parking garage today at work, I got in my car and started it. Guy next to me gets in, starts his up, and it probably didn't even make it up to full initial rev speed and he was shifting the automatic into drive. I wanted to throat punch him.

[DannyDeez]

Same. Runs around 1200-1300 RPM for 30-40 secs, then drops to around 700 over the course of a few seconds.

I always let my cars idle down before driving. Makes me insane when other drivers don't. In the parking garage today at work, I got in my car and started it. Guy next to me gets in, starts his up, and it probably didn't even make it up to full initial rev speed and he was shifting the automatic into drive. I wanted to throat punch him.

haha I often want to throat punch people as well, but not for that. Why does that bother you so much?

[Dr GP]

Not trying to threadjack , but how many have noticed that when upshifting and turning at the same time, the revs hang and don't drop when the clutch is engaged. Have had this on all 3 of my s4s. 2010,2014 and 2011. No big deal, just odd.

[schirm]

The start up is the car heating the catalytic converters to proper temp. You notice if your cars warm and you start it back up right away it wont happen.

[SteveYem]

Same. Runs around 1200-1300 RPM for 30-40 secs, then drops to around 700 over the course of a few seconds.

I always let my cars idle down before driving. Makes me insane when other drivers don't. In the parking garage today at work, I got in my car and started it. Guy next to me gets in, starts his up, and it probably didn't even make it up to full initial rev speed and he was shifting the automatic into drive. I wanted to throat punch him.


haha I often want to throat punch people as well, but not for that. Why does that bother you so much?

Well, what annoys me about it is that almost every time I see it happen, the person has shifted into gear before putting on their seatbelt, or looking behind them, or otherwise getting situated in the vehicle. The engine fires up and I hear the transmission clunk into reverse before the engine even comes back down to idle. People shifting into reverse before looking behind them really irritates me.

To the OP's question, on my car it depends on temperature, both ambient temperature and the engine temperature. Typically at the first start in the morning, the engine will rev around 1200 rpm for 10-15 seconds, then I hear the secondary air intake pump sucking air in as the idle drops to ~750 rpm or so. On warm starts this process is bypassed and the engine just goes right to the ~750 rpm idle.

[DGVR6]

Not trying to threadjack , but how many have noticed that when upshifting and turning at the same time, the revs hang and don't drop when the clutch is engaged. Have had this on all 3 of my s4s. 2010,2014 and 2011. No big deal, just odd.

Ugh I hate that. A few times I would jerk the car around thinking that I'm already matched for the next gear.

[eurotic]

Well, what annoys me about it is that almost every time I see it happen, the person has shifted into gear before putting on their seatbelt, or looking behind them, or otherwise getting situated in the vehicle. The engine fires up and I hear the transmission clunk into reverse before the engine even comes back down to idle. People shifting into reverse before looking behind them really irritates me.

See that doesn't bother me. Maybe you can argue that best practice is to check first then put in gear, but what bothers me are the people that don't look at all before starting to back up or they just use their rearview. I'm okay if they put in gear first, then check mirrors and look over their shoulders and finally proceed.

[Rez90]

I'm in reverse letting the clutch out literally as the car is firing up lol

#YOLO

[DannyDeez]

Well, what annoys me about it is that almost every time I see it happen, the person has shifted into gear before putting on their seatbelt, or looking behind them, or otherwise getting situated in the vehicle. The engine fires up and I hear the transmission clunk into reverse before the engine even comes back down to idle. People shifting into reverse before looking behind them really irritates me.

To the OP's question, on my car it depends on temperature, both ambient temperature and the engine temperature. Typically at the first start in the morning, the engine will rev around 1200 rpm for 10-15 seconds, then I hear the secondary air intake pump sucking air in as the idle drops to ~750 rpm or so. On warm starts this process is bypassed and the engine just goes right to the ~750 rpm idle.

I agree with you on that Steve. People who are oblivious to the world while driving annoy the crap out of me too. Its just plain carelessness and can definitely get someone hurt.

[B8Addict]

Not trying to threadjack , but how many have noticed that when upshifting and turning at the same time, the revs hang and don't drop when the clutch is engaged. Have had this on all 3 of my s4s. 2010,2014 and 2011. No big deal, just odd.

Probably because of the Dual mass flywheel. Does anyone notice rev hang on upshifts when the car warms up? I notice the revs drop considerably faster when the car is not up to temp.

[audistealth]

When you start your car in the am, how long do your revs hang up? Been having issues with the 6mt needing the clutch pressed in harder to start (replacing clutch soon btw). Revs hang at about 1200 for 15-20 sec then drop slowly over next 15 sec and settle to around 7-800. Not weather dependent. I can't tell if this is new or I am crazy and it has been doing it all along but I never noticed.

That might be the slave cylinder

[GoNavy]

Been having issues with the 6mt needing the clutch pressed in harder to start

Yep, I have this issue in cold weather. I'm convinced it's a problem with the sensor that tells the ECU the clutch is depressed and the engine can be started. No issues once the car is running. Shifting is smooth and no slipping.

[jpatterson]

"Yep, I have this issue in cold weather. I'm convinced it's a problem with the sensor that tells the ECU the clutch is depressed and the engine can be started."

That is most likely the issue. Clutch switch. Common failure on Porsche's. Easy fix.

[GoNavy]

That is most likely the issue. Clutch switch. Common failure on Porsche's. Easy fix.

I'll have to look into that fix. The dealer checked the brake system and of course found no issues and told me the clutch was the issue which I know isn't the problem currently.

[jimrobbington]

Probably because of the Dual mass flywheel. Does anyone notice rev hang on upshifts when the car warms up? I notice the revs drop considerably faster when the car is not up to temp.
The Rev hang on this engine is like no other! LWFW really helped improve that experience.

I'll have to look into that fix. The dealer checked the brake system and of course found no issues and told me the clutch was the issue which I know isn't the problem currently.
There is no clutch switch on this car. Well, not one that you can replace. There's a couple good big threads. Search for "push clutch to start". Basically it's all part of the master cylinder and can't be replaced on its own.

Whatever you do, do not take it to the dealer. They will con you into believing it's your clutch/fw that needs replaced.

[B8Addict]

The Rev hang on this engine is like no other! LWFW really helped improve that experience.


Glad to know that its normal but man is it annoying. Definitely grabbing a LWFW when the clutch starts to feel weak.

[jpatterson]

The Rev hang on this engine is like no other! LWFW really helped improve that experience.

There is no clutch switch on this car. Well, not one that you can replace. There's a couple good big threads. Search for "push clutch to start". Basically it's all part of the master cylinder and can't be replaced on its own.

Whatever you do, do not take it to the dealer. They will con you into believing it's your clutch/fw that needs replaced.

Thanks for taking me to school :-) Found this there that helps understanding.
"Info on the clutch master cylinder switches/sensors:

The clutch master cylinder has three Hall switches integrated into it. A Hall switch is a solid state device that detects when a magnet is brought near it.

The master cylinder piston has a magnet in it, and as it moves it activates one of the three hall switches, which are mounted in the wall of the cylinder bore, along the stroke path of the piston.

- F36 Switch is "normally-closed" at the fully-released pedal position, which is used to disengage the cruise when you depress the pedal. T6g/2 or /3
- G476 Switch is the "clutch position sensor" at the approximate clutch engagement point, somewhere in the middle of the pedal travel. This is used for the throttle blip during a shift, and the auto parking brake release. T6g/5
- F194 Switch is the starter interlock, at the fully depressed pedal position. T6g/2 or /3

If something is binding in the clutch mechanism (inside the bell-housing : Clutch Fork, Fork pivot bearings, throw-out bearing, pressure plate release fingers/spring) that causes the slave cylinder to not move through it's full normal travel, then the master cylinder won't move through its full travel, and the F194 switch does not get activated, and the car will not start."

[Hofahome]

Thanks for taking me to school :-) Found this there that helps understanding.
"Info on the clutch master cylinder switches/sensors:

The clutch master cylinder has three Hall switches integrated into it. A Hall switch is a solid state device that detects when a magnet is brought near it.

The master cylinder piston has a magnet in it, and as it moves it activates one of the three hall switches, which are mounted in the wall of the cylinder bore, along the stroke path of the piston.

- F36 Switch is "normally-closed" at the fully-released pedal position, which is used to disengage the cruise when you depress the pedal. T6g/2 or /3
- G476 Switch is the "clutch position sensor" at the approximate clutch engagement point, somewhere in the middle of the pedal travel. This is used for the throttle blip during a shift, and the auto parking brake release. T6g/5
- F194 Switch is the starter interlock, at the fully depressed pedal position. T6g/2 or /3

If something is binding in the clutch mechanism (inside the bell-housing : Clutch Fork, Fork pivot bearings, throw-out bearing, pressure plate release fingers/spring) that causes the slave cylinder to not move through it's full normal travel, then the master cylinder won't move through its full travel, and the F194 switch does not get activated, and the car will not start."

Wow. That is the best explanation I have read about the issue. Thanks
The one thing that I don't get though, is that I can keep my foot in the exact same place (ie. Don't release or push clutch harder) and push the ignition again and it will start right up.

[jimrobbington]

Wow. That is the best explanation I have read about the issue. Thanks
The one thing that I don't get though, is that I can keep my foot in the exact same place (ie. Don't release or push clutch harder) and push the ignition again and it will start right up.
Give it time, it will get harder as the clutch surface wears further down...