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Ali SC3
03-14-2016, 11:32 AM
Hi guys, sort of new to the forum and Audi's in general (I am a die hard toyota 2jz guy... I know I know).
I have driven a couple cars with a 2.7t (allroad, b6 S4) and I decided it was time to get something AWD with a 2.7t and have some fun with it.

Some of you will probably remember Mec's B7 A4 with the built 2.0t, that he pulled out to do a 2.5 swap that was not completed.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-iitFvb2Dbsw/Vr4dNzLL7xI/AAAAAAABc7w/gvvuYllhDqI1yRzcPb7VwvbeqvH3oRqawCCo/s800-Ic42/Audi%2BA4.jpg

After much debate I decided to scoop it up and start a 2.7t swap on it.
My brother has a b6 s4 avant with a 2.7t swap which gave me alot of the motivation for this project, and is very similar it turns out in terms of parts etc.. swapping into a b7 is much like a b6 which is nice.

At first it will be a stage 2 with stock turbo's just to make sure the motor and everything is healthy before I look into more power down the road (I gotta say the single turbo kit is quite interesting)

Threads are pretty worthless without pics, so I will start at the beginning with some pics.

day one I looked at the car, it had no engine in it.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-nvyBEkuwxY0/Vr5A_8TkK6I/AAAAAAABc8g/8GwGyXQFokUz5qvihMk9UJqArjyv2jpuACCo/s800-Ic42/IMG_5458.JPG
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-x1Aj8BG9GdM/Vr5BBF3dPwI/AAAAAAABc8g/EKio1BUKb8kHjrs-9VuIQTGnU_XnBXdsgCCo/s800-Ic42/IMG_5463.JPG
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-tspDYtj5LAw/Vr5BQCMfjMI/AAAAAAABc8g/d5B_WswpW-oi_GIpohXE86N7TyuUhMbwQCCo/s800-Ic42/IMG_5462.JPG

To complete the swap, instead of getting every little thing separate I opted to find a whole A6 parts car, 2001 early motor and ecu but unfortunately from an automatic car, not a huge deal just a little more wiring.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-hXC1qdXlFaQ/Vs3vR9nPOvI/AAAAAAABc9k/zVw_AC6-aRozuqausj0W5Uh0OoEUzQ0BACCo/s800-Ic42/IMG_5578.JPG

really surprised after pulling everything I needed off that A6, I fit all of it and the engine into the back of my GX470, didn't even have to get the trailer =)
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Ep5DVbWr0ts/Vs3vRqDmmBI/AAAAAAABc9k/I82uxI00FpsFrHGzkim1zAphso9MN_GLQCCo/s800-Ic42/IMG_5579.JPG

It took alot of research and I must thank the members here for posting up info related to the swap.
I got the engine and trans mated, along with the a6 heater core hoses and power steering line which are the main things you need to get hooked up before you drop the motor in as its a pain later.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/--P_rwK4X0AY/Vub9NE-81BI/AAAAAAABc_A/mWLqvKS-IA4pLRAbsJTsM9CElgQT-3eaQCCo/s800-Ic42/IMG_5723.JPG

Engine going in (took like 16 hours over 3 days, not working that fast but there were many complications including grinding through a torque converter cause those bolts stripped out in like 2 seconds)
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-1RUDZXKKUcY/Vub9NDJxUZI/AAAAAAABc_A/8URutFWVHdUi4S8Hxhx6uRzte1mUDg9iwCCo/s800-Ic42/IMG_5729.JPG

being loaded onto the trailer as Mec and his buddy gave me a hand with dropping the motor in but I will be doing all the rest on my own (thanks again guys!! I owe you some wrench time)
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-GvJMdfLIYZ0/Vub9ZdPHITI/AAAAAAABc_A/1RiO_qc6ti8yzZjczCbDw7RKuSBvvNZ7wCCo/s800-Ic42/IMG_5736.JPG

going through university area back to my place to work on it.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-tSWk9cxEVXQ/Vub9ZYKpdkI/AAAAAAABc_A/GtIP0sLQf7Ah8cKFdrjoIEfQBWOB6_riACCo/s800-Ic42/IMG_5740.JPG

I don't have any shots in the garage but I started knocking out little things one at a time, the list is rather long but I will get there.
so far the coolant hoses are hooked up and battery wire ran, still need to delete clutch fan, figure out why my 3.2l a/c bracket wouldn't bolt up, fuel filter and return line, alot of wiring, 3.2l core support, abs module, fan controller and all the little stuff...
should keep me busy for a while. questions, pointers, and positive comments are welcomed, hope to list any details I can here there were not covered in other threads to help others do the swap afterwards, and if/when I figure out the wiring I will post a diagram to follow.

Will post more updates and info once I get back to the wrenching =)

Ali SC3
03-14-2016, 11:37 AM
oh and on a technical note for those doing this later, you need 2 longer bolts and nuts for the starter. Ace only had standard size that was long enough and the right size to go through the starter, I used two 3/8" bolts and they were 6" long, and I used 4-5 washers and a nut on each one so that it wouldn't run out of threads. sounds crazy but after 4 trips to ace hardware that was the only thing that would work, starter is now on secure. 5.5" long might have not needed washers, but they only make 5" long and 6" long so a couple washers does the trick on the 6" bolts.

Also the 3.2l a/c bracket does not bolt to the 2.7t. seems I need a 3.0 bracket but can't seem to find them online. if someone has the part number I need that would be awesome.

Ali SC3
03-16-2016, 09:35 AM
got some shiny new bi-pipes for the 2.7, and a silicone inter cooler piping kit. should free up some more ponies. getting some aftermarket downpipes as well but haven't picked them up yet.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-UjUUiAMecW8/VumK1ZnVakI/AAAAAAABc_Q/jYMaX8WA3mMvm3QrCJfx35wnv4AKhYSRACCo/s720-Ic42/IMG_5695.JPG

Ali SC3
04-19-2016, 01:28 PM
Now everyone don't all get too excited and post at once... lol [:D]

Got some more stuff done... [wrench]
Cleaned up the front of the motor and the engine bay
Removed the clutch fan part (nut is reverse thread, Thanks Audi.. [headbang])
installed the crank sensor (recommend doing this before dropping engine in)
Got the shifter adjusted to hit all the gears and put the covers on, need to locate the missing shift boot or buy a new one but looks pretty good.
Shifter seems to sit a little forward, but checked my brothers 2.7 swapped b6 s4 and his is in the same spot so I am assuming this is normal, will look into more adjustment later for now it works.

a/c wise I got the 2.0 A/c compressor mounted with 3.0 bracket and bent the 2.0 line until it fit on the compressor and bent it to run between the oil pan and the sway bar to I think the dryer (on passenger side).
Laid out all the other A/c parts and it seems that is the only one that needs major work, the other line from the condenser back to the compressor only needs minor bend right at the compressor.

Never seen this car turn on before so I got curious if I hooked up the battery what would happen, and well it turns out everything works except the engine and of course the a/c system.
Got to listen to the sound system and adjust the Recaro's and what not, also learnt the exact mileage of the car for the first time which is nice. looking forward to getting it finished and starting it up.

more pics
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-2B7XwTi7uLU/VxaRv9cRT1I/AAAAAAABdBc/BsgC_XCKJeQa_QtSAHBKpfZn9t7kh2FhACCo/s800-Ic42/IMG_5879.JPG
Cluster works yay!!

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-vDDpTgQk1lY/VxaRv4LXQbI/AAAAAAABdBk/C6Hf1h2LPnsQ5pJedJ-lEE2ThXoD_hvnQCCo/s800-Ic42/IMG_5880.JPG
getting there, need to find that boot

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Nu9G3lUHgzU/VxaRvxRm0UI/AAAAAAABdBg/0XOpRJTkVZApBVfNyKm0TFROQDCQQtCmQCCo/s800-Ic42/IMG_5886.JPG
engine bay after cleaning and has an a/c compressor... still need to clean down the top of the engine.
I noticed recently I am missing the power steering pump, so need to get one of those too, the parts list grows. [facepalm]

aluthman
04-19-2016, 02:19 PM
Nice to see that car with an engine in it again! Looks like you're making good progress.

estomax
04-21-2016, 11:27 AM
nice progress! can't wait to see this all together. The 2.7 is a fun motor, although i would say a bit lazy compared to the JZs stock for stock :)

IronAudi
04-21-2016, 01:06 PM
nice progress! can't wait to see this all together. The 2.7 is a fun motor, although i would say a bit lazy compared to the JZs stock for stock :)

everyone wants a straight 6

seal66
04-22-2016, 06:40 AM
Awesome to see Mecs car moving along under new ownership. Gotta ask your brother must be ALi with the Greyish B6 s4 that was swapped by Jordan. You guys are going have fast cars man

Ali SC3
04-25-2016, 12:45 PM
Nice to see that car with an engine in it again! Looks like you're making good progress.

Thanks, it is nice to see an engine in the bay even if it isn't running yet. Taking care of the easy stuff and working my way there.
I checked out your thread super nice work on the manifold, I may have to buy that tig welder mec has and learn to make my own exhaust.
I just don't get why they all go from 3" to 2.5", did it not occur to anyone to make a reasonable full 3" downpipe... at least I am glad they sell the flanges to make one.


nice progress! can't wait to see this all together. The 2.7 is a fun motor, although i would say a bit lazy compared to the JZs stock for stock :)

Thanks, hoping it'll be there by winter but its definitely a take my time project and not a weekend type swap.
Yeah I like the 2.7t alot because the bi-turbo's spool up so fast, it feels nice on the street for city driving although I am not a fan of the psi dropping by redline, but with K03's it seems the way it has to be for now.

My 2JZ is a na-t single turbo so takes till 3200 to get spooling and spooled up around 3600, and it only makes more and more power as it hits redline, so its an entirely different experience... more fun on the highway than the street actually. I plan to give that a whole another round of upgrades when the audi is done, bigger turbo, undivided turbo manifold + quick spool valve and I am undecided if I should go E85 on it also.

The twin turbo 2jzgte's are great for the street, they spool fast and still hit hard on the second turbos... add a downpipe and intake and crank the boost to 18-20 and its just mean all around for any type of driving.
I have thought about switching to a twin setup motor, but I decided to just throw a quick spool vale on my setup it should do similar.


everyone wants a straight 6

Can't argue with that, they are amazing motors.
now if only I could shove one in the audi and make it AWD... probably would never get past the drawaing board but the concept is amazing.

my SC's motor
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Bv44rt0O2Y8/VrLL3CA8xuI/AAAAAAABc7A/wDMPYSYVCLgyHK591i8dM3DxQpHksX6lQCCo/s720/IMG_5436.JPG


Awesome to see Mecs car moving along under new ownership. Gotta ask your brother must be ALi with the Greyish B6 s4 that was swapped by Jordan. You guys are going have fast cars man

Thanks, and yes that is him and his S4. It was very inspiring to drive his before taking on this project, he is still ironing out some small issues but overall its a nice car and moves quite well.


Haven't done much more to it since the last update but I am thinking next I will work on the fuel return line/ filter.

seal66
04-25-2016, 05:13 PM
Thanks, it is nice to see an engine in the bay even if it isn't running yet. Taking care of the easy stuff and working my way there.
I checked out your thread super nice work on the manifold, I may have to buy that tig welder mec has and learn to make my own exhaust.
I just don't get why they all go from 3" to 2.5", did it not occur to anyone to make a reasonable full 3" downpipe... at least I am glad they sell the flanges to make one.



Thanks, hoping it'll be there by winter but its definitely a take my time project and not a weekend type swap.
Yeah I like the 2.7t alot because the bi-turbo's spool up so fast, it feels nice on the street for city driving although I am not a fan of the psi dropping by redline, but with K03's it seems the way it has to be for now.

My 2JZ is a na-t single turbo so takes till 3200 to get spooling and spooled up around 3600, and it only makes more and more power as it hits redline, so its an entirely different experience... more fun on the highway than the street actually. I plan to give that a whole another round of upgrades when the audi is done, bigger turbo, undivided turbo manifold + quick spool valve and I am undecided if I should go E85 on it also.

The twin turbo 2jzgte's are great for the street, they spool fast and still hit hard on the second turbos... add a downpipe and intake and crank the boost to 18-20 and its just mean all around for any type of driving.
I have thought about switching to a twin setup motor, but I decided to just throw a quick spool vale on my setup it should do similar.



Can't argue with that, they are amazing motors.
now if only I could shove one in the audi and make it AWD... probably would never get past the drawaing board but the concept is amazing.

my SC's motor
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Bv44rt0O2Y8/VrLL3CA8xuI/AAAAAAABc7A/wDMPYSYVCLgyHK591i8dM3DxQpHksX6lQCCo/s720/IMG_5436.JPG



Thanks, and yes that is him and his S4. It was very inspiring to drive his before taking on this project, he is still ironing out some small issues but overall its a nice car and moves quite well.


Haven't done much more to it since the last update but I am thinking next I will work on the fuel return line/ filter.

That is awesome man. I never got a ride in it before ALi picked it up.

Oh and yea if you want to go full 3'' exhaust you are going to have to custom make one like I did.

aluthman
04-25-2016, 05:48 PM
Thanks, it is nice to see an engine in the bay even if it isn't running yet. Taking care of the easy stuff and working my way there.
I checked out your thread super nice work on the manifold, I may have to buy that tig welder mec has and learn to make my own exhaust.
I just don't get why they all go from 3" to 2.5", did it not occur to anyone to make a reasonable full 3" downpipe... at least I am glad they sell the flanges to make one.


There are a few that are true 3". JHM and RAI (don't buy one from RAI) sell 3" downpipes. My current downpipe is 3" all the way down and was made from an RAI downpipe that didn't fit worth a damn. I cut it up and made a new one. You should totally buy Martin's welder if he's selling it. There's a lot you can do with it, they are great welders.

jerseybrian
04-25-2016, 06:22 PM
RAI (don't buy one from RAI) sell 3" downpipes. RAI downpipe that didn't fit worth a damn. .

LOL. my fitment wasn't that great either [headbang]

austin white
05-08-2016, 09:19 AM
Congrats on taking steps toward the swap. I modified my SSAC 3" to 2.5" downpipes by extending the downward section by 2". fitment is pretty great and it seems easier then trying to make a custom pipe, especially if you are considering doing single turbo after. Those polished bipipes look super good btw.

I would recommend doing stage 3 right off the bat, because you'll put in the engine, get it working, diagnose problems, then try to solve them all. After that's all done and you love driving your car then you're going to nearly start over and pull the motor again and risk creating more problems. It doesn't seem to be worth waiting and creating more work for yourself when you know in the future that you'll go stage 3. The only way I would recommend doing stage 2 at first is if you aren't sure that you'll be going stage 3 later on and think you might be satisfied with just 300hp. In which case you could have avoided the whole swap and just gone stage 3 on a 2.0t

Ali SC3
05-09-2016, 12:13 PM
Yeah I just noticed that SSAC has a full 3" exhaust for TIP models, and it looks like it might have a better angle for clearance. I think I am going to get that one and extend it as mentioned, I just want a full 3" for the future, one thing I don't want to keep redoing is the exhaust. dual 3" and be done with it is what I want.

Austin, thanks for the advice on the downpipe, I think I will use the 3" Tip version and modify those like you said by adding in where needed.
Yeah I think the Bi-pipes looks pretty sharp , I know some people don't like SSAC but if it works then I don't see a problem with it, its just a pipe after all.

I did want to go stage 3 right off the bat but I have a bunch of other stuff going on right now in my personal life that is preventing me from doing an all out build with new turbo's like I wanted..
I think I will be happy with the stock K03's with the boost turned up for quite a while as it should have some low end scooting power, for big power pulls I can always drive my SC around =)

I don't mind if I have to pull the motor again later, although I am pretty sure if I throw the car up on a lift and lower the subframe some, I could probably swap out the turbo's without a whole lot of fuss, but will cross that path when the time comes. I think at that point I would want to do something more custom than slapping on some k04's or tials, I would probably find a couple off the shelf billet BW's and have the flanges rewelded to fit everything. I looked more into the single turbo and don't think I actually want to do that anymore, seems like a lot of heat right there on the top back of the motor would be bad for the hood and the loss of spool.

made a little progress on the interior of the car its all buttoned up with the glove box back in.
I got the power steering pump mounted, and intercoolers and piping all mocked up. still need to trim a few more hoses and get it all clamped up but its coming together.
found out the passenger side IC has a hole in it.... so grabbing another one to replace it. this one will do for mockup.

for anyone doing the swap be sure to grab the intercooler brackets off the donor cor, they are riveted on but with a large pry bar they can be popped off.
there is space for them to be reused on the B7, just have to drill a couple holes to hold them on.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-6QXu5ZeE5c4/VzDd8NOUZnI/AAAAAAABdC0/26Fq_6qsC5gqQ3wuZU04NIFqLW1xWB0qgCCo/s800/IMG_5998.JPG

austin white
05-09-2016, 12:38 PM
Gotcha, some things definitely have a priority over going stage 3 on a car. The only reason I didn't go with full 3" is because Sean from SRM said that it's really not necessary, even with k24 turbos that are claimed to be able to put down 600whp on e85. Between him saying that and keeping fitment in mind it was an easy choice.

Are those SRM bipipes that you polished?

Ali SC3
05-09-2016, 04:26 PM
Yeah, believe me it was something I was interesting in doing but its just not possible till next year and I want to drive it this year.
I have driven a stage 2 one and I think it will be plenty of fun for while, I know I always get the itch for more power but when I have more time I would like to pull it again and really do it justice like you have in your build thread, cleaning it up and painting it... sounds like fun to me not so much work but yeah that whole fitting the motor in there its just such a tight squeeze.

So doing more a budget build for the first round but I want everything working properly, no sensors flashing is the first goal and then enjoy it for the winter.
As you know there are a couple things left for the community to tackle like the the ABS situation and I was reading about the gas cap in your thread.
I cut the whole ABS system out of the A6 and am hoping I can retrofit that into the B7.

In winter I get bored of driving the SUV, and want to have a turbo car that is fun from stop light to stop light so even a stock 2.7t would be a large improvement.
My SC is pretty much allergic to snow and anything more than a mist of rain.

Yeah my brother was telling me he was told the same thing that 2.5" is more than enough, and it probably is but I have a gut feeling there is more to it than that.
Even if it doesn't affect the max power as 2.5" can still flow enough volume, the larger the exhaust the less the backpressure will be and that can help spool under the curve.
I don't expect everyone to agree with me nor do I want to get into an argument, but its what I think cause if I had a choice my car would have no downpipes or exhaust, just turbo's facing the rear =)

Those are SSAC or the xspower pipes, got them off ebay. they seem to be of good quality and they come polished so I decided to give them a try.
I hear this is a major stock restriction so these pipes are a must, most of the stock piping seems 2" besides these, although on the drivers side lower intercooler pipe (The one that bolts to the oil pan), I noticed that it has a little dent or hump in it near the engine mount, not sure if mine got dented or they all come like that but my brothers has it also. I almost want to replace thise piece with a universal pipe that doesn't have the dimple as it seems like a restriction to me on that side.... maybe the k04 pipes fix that not sure. other than that everything else looks pretty well sized for the stock turbo's.

How did your pressure plate fix go, still working out? MEC helped me set the SAC as I had not done it before really crossing my fingers when its all done that the car will move [>_<]

austin white
05-09-2016, 07:56 PM
I only drove it for one joy ride after reinstalling the trans so I don't have a lot of data but so far so good. there are definitely plenty of kinks to work out along the way so i'm sure you'll have enough work on your hands until you go stage 3. As far as I can tell the general solution for most of the problems that come up is swapping over b6 or b5 parts in, such as the ABS module and cluster, so that everything can communicate properly.

I still haven't done my A/C lines, is it that easy? and don't you have to recharge the system right after pretty much?

Ali SC3
05-10-2016, 12:08 PM
Well as long as its holding up that is good. Yeah definitely enough kinks to work out, I grabbed the whole c5 abs module (cut the hardlines and pulled the whole thing out) so will get to that after its running.
I don't think I want to go to the older cluster so I will try and find some kind of fix if possible but not even close to there yet, maybe you will have it figured out by then =)

A/C lines is easy in theory but bending the a/c lines is a bit tricky to say the least. I reused 2.0t lines and everything including dryer, condensor, and compressor.
only thing not 2.0t was the 3.0 mount for the compressor, which is definitely 100% necessary, the 2.7t bracket only lines up like 50% of the way.

The line from the compressor to the passenger side round thing (dryer maybe?) required a good amount of bending/finessing. try not to bend it in the same spot, do a little bit in different spots.
mainly to get the angle right from the bottom to the part where it bolts on the compressor, then it sort of hugs the sway bar, and then there is a bend on the passenger side that could be straightened out a bit but it works and connects to the dryer.
the 2nd line from the condensor to the compressor looks like it will fit with just a tiny bend where it mounts to the compressor, I haven't installed that line yet but its by far the easier of the 2.

all the rest is like factory. I am not sure about recharging yet you can only do that once its all on and complete, I think they pull a vacuum to get any moisture out, then they fill it with the refrigerant.
make sure there are no missing o-rings or you will get leaks, and if you want the factory fan control module to work from the B5, I think you have to install the B5 pressure sensor on the condensor next to the b7 one, as the old one is analog output and the B7 one is a digital output, on my brothers car we researched it tried finding new sensors, but this was the easiest way took it to an audi shop and they just welded on a bung onto the B7 condensor and presto problem solved. you want to get it out of the way before you pressurize the system.

or you can go with a more simpler fan setup, like one of those thermal switches you stick in the radiator, just depends on how stock you want to get.
if you want it to be like it came that way, that requires the b5 sensor for the ecu, and the b7 sensor for the car, so adding the second b5 sensor to the b7 condenser seems like a no brainer to me cause then you can run whatever you want in the future. I ripped the fan controller off the C5 so I plan to wire that in and get it to work at some point.

Ali SC3
05-23-2016, 02:40 PM
2 steps forward and one step back... got the intercoolers and piping all mocked up and couplers trimmed properly.
Connected the ground strap coming off the passenger side of the motor to the ground strap hanging off the cars frame rail.
Started tackling the extra vac lines, got it to how I want it reusing the 2.0t hardlines off the brake booster and line to the abs module, removed the ones that were on the 2.7t originally and reused fitting going into intake.

Was pretty happy till I noticed I broke the main spider hose somewhere in all that fiddling with lines.... so now I need to do the spider hose fix also.
I guess it was good because it won't break again and now its probably the easiest time I will have reaching back there.

For the life of me I cannot find where the a/c wiring plug is on the harness side. I see the connector on the side of the compressor, but nothing on the 2.7t harness.
Does anyone know where this wire comes from or do I have to wire it separately. Kind of hoping it will show up at some point lol.

austin white
05-23-2016, 04:43 PM
My A/C plug was on the adaptive harness that I bought, the 2.7 compressor is a one pin connector I think it's grey with some green. So my guess is you'll have to splice in a new plug. You should do a catch can to replace the spider hose.

Ali SC3
05-24-2016, 09:23 AM
I see, yeah I have a feeling its not on the 2.7t engine harness for some reason or mine is missing.. I think you are right I will just get the plug and wire it in myself its only 2 wires.
I am going to look into the catch can, when I looked at the "spider hose" it had like 5 different hoses so I need to find out which ones go together and which one go where, probably a thread on it will do a search and see how it goes on that front.

austin white
05-25-2016, 06:31 AM
My catch can has the two ports on the valve covers and the port from the crank case going to it. I think the other two hoses that are on the spider hose are just vacuum so you can just cap them.

Ali SC3
05-25-2016, 06:16 PM
Yeah I read that on a couple threads and I am wondering if I am going crazy here but I don't see how you can cap the one to the air intake Y pipe at the very least cause its the main vent.

http://i1273.photobucket.com/albums/y407/KraftwerkTurbo/2002%20Allroad%20Engine%20Swap/CrankCaseBreatherschematic_zps05c4d345.jpg

The top right hose going to the Y is the vent pipe to relieve the crank case and valve cover pressure built by blow by under boost, so if you block that off then you just have 3 pressure sources going into each other with no vent anymore.. and also likely why they put the vent pipe at the top of the 5 port spider hose contraption thing (on a side note pressure in the block leads to smoking turbos cause the oil cannot drain properly).

You can delete the PCV hose top left cause under boost it has a check valve ("non-return valve") that closes so its only doing anything in vacuum and no one cares about that I assume.

The other 3 would have to stay so ideally you would want like a 4 port catch can.
for a 2 port can you could tee the valve cover lines and maybe even the crank case line on one large port, and run the other to the intake Y pipe.
it would at least be better than having no vent line cause honestly you could just tee the 3 together and the oil would end up in the crank case, draining it from a catch can with no vent doesn't seem to add anything good.
If you Put a drain port for the crank case on the bottom and you can put the can at the stock location and it would drain into the crank case it looks like.

I'm thinking the best of both worlds might be to replace the spider system with rubber hose, and put the catch can inline on the top right line (the vent) that goes to the intake Y pipe ,then it would catch the oil under boost, and let the PCV do its thing under vacuum. you would have to drain it manually though which isn't a big deal.

My toyota is alot simpler it just has a pcv on one valvecover and a vent on the other, and often we make the vents larger or remove the pcv and use 2 vents or lines to a can that either vents to air or goes back to the intake. venting to air like with a filter on the top of a can would keep all the oil out and free up a line. never heard of blocking off vents before I would have to assume one would be filling that catch can up pretty often, unless I am getting this all wrong somehow.

Urtorsen
05-26-2016, 03:23 AM
So good to see somebody doing this swap nearby, would love to check it out sometime, I plan on doing it if I can find a cheap donor car

Ali SC3
05-26-2016, 09:25 AM
are you in the Colorado area or up in Chicago... I guess Chicago is close by lol. Its a great setup but its quite a bit of work all in all.
definately not a weekend type swap yet but its not too bad either for what you end up with, a b7 with a 2.7t I still can't wait to drive mine when its done... I have literally never driven a b7 before haha.

Ali SC3
05-27-2016, 09:11 AM
Well I repaired the spider hose system for now, the cracked hose was just the bottom one going to the crank case, replaced it with some 5/8 reinforced rubber hose (I think it was a power steering hose).
I left the other ones stock for now as they seem to be in alright shape, and if they do crack/break the other 4 are on the top part so I can reach them pretty easily.
Kinda glad the bottom one broke and replaced it because it would have been harder to do that one later.

Later I will add a catch can on the vent line going from spider system to the Y pipe intake thing, that will keep the oil out and the factory system doing its thing.
I already have one car that is massively far from being stock, I would like this one to be a little more stock on those systems... maybe not the turbos though next year lets see =)

Need to start working on the fuel system return, and order those SAI block off plates and a crush washer for the power steering line, apparently I am missing one.
slowly making progress.

Oh and to cut the silicone intercooler couplings (the ebay ones need to be trimmed), use a very sharp loose blade and it will slice through it like butter.
I would suggest getting a pack of blades cause if its not super sharp it will leave jagged edges, for a clean cut use a new blade every few couplers.

Tried to wrap my head around some of the wiring diagrams, I am unhappy to report the audi diagrams make like 5% sense to me at this point.
Maybe another few evenings of staring at them might do the trick, once I figure it out though it should be pretty easy (fingers crossed).

I have a 2002 C5 A6 harness/engine (APB) going into a B7 A4 2.0t chassis, so I will be doing a chart for that if others are doing the same.
If anyone has the C5 A6 diagrams please contact me, I am having trouble finding those.. and I dont want to buy a S4 harness cause it would be a pain to install now.
Also wondering if there is a difference between an s4 and a6 body plugs... if they are similar I have the S4 diagrams, but I figured different chassis would be different.
any info on the subject is appreciated, thanks.

pic with the couplers mocked up and spider system fixed (but you can't see it)
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-iUahiOos5y8/V0hwUlVO4-I/AAAAAAABdEQ/l5P7LO5Qa54NZCcF5v3YcAI2FSJw4aU1gCCo/s800/IMG_6075.JPG

austin white
05-29-2016, 12:58 PM
Engine Wiringhttp://i.imgur.com/17ZtdGp.gifhttp://i.imgur.com/uL7PPEG.gifhttp://i.imgur.com/iNwGtjt.gif
Clusterhttp://i.imgur.com/HOFBjw2.gif
Cruise Control Wiringhttp://i.imgur.com/xg6nL50.gif
Coolant Fan Wiringhttp://i.imgur.com/tybNtPT.gif

I came across these on a 2.7 swap group on Facebook which was pretty awesome. This is all for the 2.7t I don't know if it will give you everything you need to know but it will definitely help. Also I just realized that you're in Chicago which is only like a two hour drive from myself in a normal car but only like an hour drive if you have a 600hp monster.

Ali SC3
06-01-2016, 09:35 AM
awesome, thanks for those. I just joined that group on facebook. I guess these are from an S4 also. I am just going to hope the body connectors are the same on the a6 or close hopefully until I can find some of those diagrams. this one looks like it makes alot more sense than the typical audi ones, so hopefully I can get further along with these.

I am in Denver lol, I don't think I am very close to either of you guys but still we can figure alot of this stuff out over the net which is nice.
starting to pick up the pace with the swap. need to order some stuff but getting closer every week.

Ali SC3
06-01-2016, 01:02 PM
Well I managed to pull some more diagrams for the 2001-2002 a6 2.7t APB and the 2006 a4 2.0t off all data.

finally making some sense of these things... WHY WOULD THEY CALL THE BODY PLUGS... "CONNECTOR STATION ELECTRONIC BOX PLENUM CHAMBER"

It took me a day to figure out these are the body plugs... I thought plenum chamber meant in the intake so that can't be it, but doing a google search it shows the ecu cover... so it is it!!!

should be able to make a spreadsheet now... wish me luck.

Ali SC3
06-21-2016, 09:37 AM
got some little stuff done, starting to decipher the wiring diagrams. figured out which plugs are what, but now to figure out what each one does and how to map them over. haven't spent too much time on it hopefully it will just fall into place once I get a couple more missing pieces.

Going to be ordering up all the final parts and getting that done this week, and then it will be a rush to install. My goal is to have this beast doing AWD burnouts by August.

Urtorsen
06-21-2016, 07:17 PM
I'm in Denver, actually aurora , moved from Chicago last year for the fishing, the weather, the mountains and the roads!!!!
Can't wait to see this thing

Ali SC3
07-05-2016, 10:33 AM
Sup Urtorsen, that's awesome yeah I am on the Denver/Aurora part of town right now also. Moved here for similar reasons its such an awesome place with tons of stuff to do.
If you are planning on doing a similar swap in the future and want to get a look at it, I can always use another set of hands on the build days, I can trade pizza and/or beer =)

I'm starting to get the parts I ordered in, so far have the accessory belt tensioner, other parts are still in route like random washers (ps lines), SAI block off plates, new coolant hoses, new a/c O-rings, 2.7 fuel filter, bunch of little stuff I needed, etc...

I also ordered full the 3" SSAC tiptronic v3 downpipes, my thought is these have more of an angle to get around the tip transmission, so maybe they will clear the b7 manual trans mount better.
Will see once I get them in, if they are closer to where they just need a little adjustment or just fit as is this would be huge for everyone in the future doing this.

Also ordered a 2.0t full engine harness so I can borrow the body plugs... I probably didn't need the whole thing but I got a good deal on it and it will be good to see what the wire colors all are before I start moving pins around. still need to sit down and map the wiring out 100% but I don't think it will be too crazy once I start doing it. at first glance though it seems like the 2.7t has like 5 body plugs and the 2.0t like 3, but hopefully it should all work out.

flashc90
07-05-2016, 02:08 PM
I am doing a b7 2.7t swap also. I came across these today on a forum not sure if the 2.0 is setup the same way.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploads7/pinout1141879398.jpg


3.2
This is the 14 Pin Female on the 3.2 engine. Pin numbers are divided odd on top and even on the bottom. The pin assignments are as follows:

1. yellow - starter Kl.50
2. red - source from alternator Kl.30 ( or B+ )
3. green/black - Oil temperature Instrument
4. green/red - Oil pressure Instrument
5. red/green - from ignition.( Kl.15 ) to backup light switch
6. gray/brown - backup light switch to lights
7. free
8. brown/black - temp switch for fresh air blower
9. green/white - Oil pressure idiot light
10. free
11. blue - alternator control light Kl.61 ( or D+ )
12. free
13. black/yellow - power source for fresh air blower
14. red - source from alternator Kl.30 or B+



2.7T
14 2,7 ( 73 )

1 yellow / starter Kl.50
2 green / only used with sportomatic runs behind
the instrument for the overheat idiot light
3 green - black / Oiltemperature Instrument
4 green - red / Oiltpressure Instrument
5 green - yellow ( depends on year ) / from ign. to backuplightswitch
6 gray - black ( depends on year ) / backuplightswitch to lights
7 black/red / Coldstartenrichment temp switch
8 white/red / MFI stop selenoid
9 black - purple / to tach
10
11 blue / alternator control light Kl.61 ( or D+ )
12 brown / to Regulator D-
13 black / to Regulator DF
14 red / source from alternator 30 or B+


brown - white / Sportomatic power source
blue - yellow / Sportomatic shift lever contact
yellow - black / Fresh air blower
red - white / to MFI/CIS and fuelpumprelay

Ali SC3
07-07-2016, 10:41 AM
thanks!! yeah I will have to start wrapping my head around all this wiring soon. Not understanding what I am seeing there yet but once I get the plugs on the desk maybe it will fall into place.
I think the B6 and B7 are different, but I am hoping the B7 3.2 and 2.0 are the same since they are the same chassis.

RoguesGambit
07-09-2016, 11:50 PM
Just wanna say, you're my new hero for doing this, good luck and keep us posted!

Ali SC3
07-10-2016, 08:15 PM
thanks, appreciate it! Just hoping I can get all this done in the near future.

I got a good amount of parts in from ECS tuning and a couple other places. also got a b7 2.0t harness for the body plugs and the a/c plug since I am using the 2.0t compressor.

Got the crush washers in for the Power Steering line to the pump and got the pulley back on, so now the PS system is complete including the cooler mounted behind the driver's inter-cooler.
Got the new coolant hoses on, so just need to find a 3.2 radiator and front clip and that should be taken care of... trying to find one in a yard so I don't have to get it all separate.

Also got new O-rings for the A/C system, well at least I think I got all of them, need to install those along with the SAI block off kit.

The full 3" tiptronic downpipes didn't clear the trans mount, same problem basically. the other issue is the drivers side one goes out so far it rubs on the side of the trans brace to the subframe, so extending it would be a pain. So I am returning these and buying the regular manual ones, and will just be extending those 2". turns out they do make full 3" ones in manual form also so I will just be getting those.

Also got the fuel filter so I will be able to run the return line and have everything working on that front. Alot of stuff left to do.

Ali SC3
07-12-2016, 12:17 PM
So I ordered an aftermarket 3.2l core support, couldn't find the whole thing around here off a salvage car.

I am going to likely order a 3.2l radiator because it looks a little larger than the 2.7 and will fit perfect on the 3.2l core support.
I am also going to try and reuse the 2.0t fans and condenser, hoping they are the same or at the least close to the same so I can mount them... if not I'll be ordering those up also.
need a 3.2 snub mount bracket for the support, and the actual snub mount on the motor I haven't looked into yet, guessing I need a 3.0 one there.

Just trying to think ahead for the front end of the car, don't want to have to wait on those parts later on. will get some wrench time in this week, will update with pics etc..

Ali SC3
07-13-2016, 03:27 PM
SAI block off plates installed... not as bad as I thought it would be.

I noticed the 2.7t fuel filter has spots for banjo bolt connections and it seems the b7 has those plastic fittings instead of the banjo connections, so I think I got the wrong filter.

I was looking at the fuel filter for a b6 a4 V6 and it looks like it has 2 lines like the 2.7t, but instead of banjos it has the fitting for the plastic thing to latch on to.
https://www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSearch/Fuel_Filter/ES2210325/
The only problem I can think of is that the 2.0t lines looks like the inlet may be larger than the outlet, and on the replacement they appear to be the same size from pics online.
I figure I will just order one anyways and give it a shot before replacing the lines and using hose barbs on the 2.7t filter.

seal66
07-14-2016, 06:55 AM
Glad to see progress moving forward on Mecs old car. Can't wait to see her back on the road man

silva
07-17-2016, 07:51 PM
SAI block off plates installed... not as bad as I thought it would be.

I noticed the 2.7t fuel filter has spots for banjo bolt connections and it seems the b7 has those plastic fittings instead of the banjo connections, so I think I got the wrong filter.

I was looking at the fuel filter for a b6 a4 V6 and it looks like it has 2 lines like the 2.7t, but instead of banjos it has the fitting for the plastic thing to latch on to.
https://www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSearch/Fuel_Filter/ES2210325/
The only problem I can think of is that the 2.0t lines looks like the inlet may be larger than the outlet, and on the replacement they appear to be the same size from pics online.
I figure I will just order one anyways and give it a shot before replacing the lines and using hose barbs on the 2.7t filter.

FYI on the fuel filter on your B7. I just finished installing a 2.7T into a B7 RS4 and the larger of the two lines on the filter is the RETURN. The small one on the back side, in the center of the filter is the supply.

On the RS4, and presumably on all B7s, there's an unused nipple on the fuel sending unit. I cut the bottom of this nipple off and ran my 2.7T fuel return line into it, leaving the 2.0T filter alone.

I originally purchased a 3.0 filter, with the four fittings on it, but it's not the same as it has a smaller return line than the newer cars.

Ali SC3
07-18-2016, 04:13 PM
the 3.0 filter I ordered appears to have 2 fittings on it of the same size, so if the larger one is the return then it might just work.
what filter did you order that had 4 fittings??

I am talking about thise one ecs part number ES#2210325
If the B7 lines are the same size as the B6 it should work plug and play for the feed line
https://c1552172.ssl.cf0.rackcdn.com/210513_x600.jpg
https://c1552172.ssl.cf0.rackcdn.com/210512_x600.jpg

This way I can run a separate return line from engine bay and connect it to the line that used to go to the old fuel filter directly.
Existing size of the return connector wont matter too much since I will be doing something custom there.

The way you are saying, you would have the regulator in the filter, and then the regulator in the fuel rail, so 2 regulators.
I rather do it with just the one in the bay if possible so hopefully this 2 fitting filter from the b6 will fit with the in and out lines on the b7... Fingers crossed cause I ordered it last week already.

silva
07-18-2016, 07:04 PM
There seem to be two different types of 3.0 filters. You should be fine with that one, as the inlet from the pump and the outlet to the engine are the same size on the B7 as they are on the B6 filter. You'll just have to run your rubber line up to the pump or cut the plastic line down by the filter and mate the two halves together. I ended up running a rubber line up to the pump for my return.

Ali SC3
07-18-2016, 10:28 PM
Thanks for the confirmation on line sizes I'm happy that should work. I might just run my return line to the pump then I won't have to make a connection to the plastic line. Will look into how difficult that is, I'm guessing pump requires pulling the back seat...

on another note, got boot!
26313

Ali SC3
07-21-2016, 05:09 PM
So from my a4 2.0t wiring diagrams I am seeing about 30 wires going to the 3 body plugs.

10 of them seem to be tps related, 3 of them were very easy to map out, and the other 17 sort scratching my head at the moment but I haven't spent much time on it yet.
hopefully they start falling into place soon.

btw Audi... I HATE TRACK DIAGRAMS /rant

Ali SC3
07-22-2016, 08:53 AM
Like crickets in here... Alright, got some more work done. got the 3.2 core support and radiator in.

Started swapping over everything from the 2.0t core support to the 3.2.
Turns out the 2.0t fans line up with all but the bottom 2 mounting holes on the 3.2 core support, I think its because the snub mount is in a different spot now.
So what I did was drill through and use a nut and bolt to fasten the bottom 2 bolts = problem solved. I should be able to fit the snub mount bracket still also.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-NMntT4_jmGA/V5JABhPj1eI/AAAAAAABdIA/s0-G8Htm1O035OHkzB-7n3qFnOD-xk7ewCCo/s800/IMG_6444.JPG

looking good
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-LE5pBM2eQtE/V5JABkgw7JI/AAAAAAABdH8/G1Ra6xw5pEUrSfiVJjK-qT862jCnMYBnACCo/s800/IMG_6445.JPG

transferred over hood ltach and also some other little things mounted to the core support, also moved over the crash things but forgot to take a pic.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-JY_ZMzAqOKs/V5JABuyH5MI/AAAAAAABdIE/bVgbU2WD0p8ZkIUb3P3ToGEEVz3PjbtdACCo/s800/IMG_6446.JPG

So in short a small modification to bolt on the lower 2 bolts for the fan and all you need is the core support itself, you can reuse all the 2.0t stuff on it, which is nice cause it will save some coin as the core support shipped was under $100. its aftermarket but an oem type replacement, will see how it goes. Also the 3.0/3.2l radiator lines up perfectly with the 2.7t and should bolt right up also.

Ali
07-22-2016, 09:20 AM
coming together nicely[up]

Ali SC3
07-25-2016, 01:40 PM
Note to self, do not close hood without connecting the hood release cable... had to do the pry bar trick from underneath, was not fun.

So, after mounting the fans got the 3.2l radiator to fit on, and luckily the 2.0t condenser bolts onto the 3.2l radiator just like stock (thanks audi).
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-aFy73HVXB_g/V5Z3_883PsI/AAAAAAABdIg/PRehXZiTcFAMNHHeurr8xdX1O7uu0sViwCCo/s800/IMG_6458.JPG

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/--ubBhJnjOzg/V5Z3_7xxZuI/AAAAAAABdIc/7FMdRiA0wkMmFJKlIpNgH2ejmL2cMKLmACCo/s800/IMG_6464.JPG

Also managed to fish the return line through the car, and will be changing out the filter and will update with how I make a good/easy return line connection (I have an idea lol).

On another note, I noticed that the c5 a6 2.7t condenser has the same 3 pin plug on it for the switch that the 2.0t b7 has, which is wierd cause I thought the old ones were the older 4 pin kind...
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-A05qTjZzOAk/V5Z4AbT3eoI/AAAAAAABdIk/ZmdfxY5wwXk_O8AGmmwOp_w9jtuIppLAwCCo/s800/IMG_6466.JPG

So now I am not sure if I need to have both cause since they are both the 3 pin kind... I may be able to just use 1 sensor for both, will update when I figure that out.
*Edit* so after consulting the ECS website, it looks like the c5 a6 has the same a/c switch as a b7 a4, which is great cause I can just splice the wire for both modules.
apparently if the harness/motor is from a b5 s4, you would may have the 4 pin one which requires welding that sensor on to the b7 condenser.
This is good news for me as its one less thing I have to modify, just needs a little wiring. [>_<]

Ali SC3
07-26-2016, 10:36 AM
Made some progress on the wiring, stared at the track diagrams for a while and put together a chart for the 2.0t body plugs.
the pins I am pretty sure are right are in green, the pin numbers with a question mark I need to double check cause on my printout they were a little blurry... but its a good start.

ones in Yellow not sure if they are needed, the ones in Red I didn't find a corresponding pin so I think those get skipped... but again, not 100% sure yet still working on it.

edit** some of the pins were good, some were not, still trying to figure it out so I am taking it down so others dont make wrong connections

Ali SC3
07-29-2016, 10:14 AM
Its starting to look like a car again... all mocked up. need to tear the front down one more time and install the last of the clamps and belts etc.. but its all test fitted and looking good.
Just waiting on those to come in and fuel and wiring and who knows I might get to drive this car finally.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-NZw1WCtTGSw/V5uOPq76E9I/AAAAAAABdJU/O8S3b36qFkoivwnY_CC960emwEJwuGcWQCCo/s800/IMG_6504.JPG

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-GmIR0qYvTaw/V5uOPthmA3I/AAAAAAABdJQ/ZFhXD5alHJIU880OwcjO8Z6F-m1_Cqh0QCCo/s800/IMG_6505.JPG

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-pZAGcOxitjc/V5uOPvqj_kI/AAAAAAABdJc/YLtO06ZZ7yo69CuCjtcOOYcRVYXF7ungACCo/s800/IMG_6506.JPG

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-q4cb8BP2wtA/V5uOP5JipBI/AAAAAAABdJY/3R_wk5feKdsRpAMdAlHC5LvrqNzc3IYKgCCo/s800/IMG_6507.JPG

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-BBbXrSW7kPA/V5uOQNNSBxI/AAAAAAABdJg/SoyRlN5vnZsmaa5LILiSGgtkxjIFHbWKwCCo/s800/IMG_6508.JPG

Ephry73
08-04-2016, 06:39 PM
looking good man!

Ali SC3
08-05-2016, 09:50 AM
Thank you Ephry! I got a bunch more parts in and will try and get alot of it on and have an update this weekend. fuel fittings, snub mount, buttoning it all up and then tackling the wiring, stay tuned.

seal66
08-05-2016, 06:43 PM
She is really close. Get her running then lets meet up with martin and grab some beers

Ali SC3
08-08-2016, 04:22 PM
So I hit a small snag with the return line. The fuel filter above seems to work great, feed lines in an out clamped right on...
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/riQ7WJGBg7ZhRHiF9GOIASYfdDXSxthvOgRgZyGUfRhurHx3b5 w0xEEhFXy1PGzXNTCZOvWynFeshdx3L5Yl3rEtCfVIWq1zLVzV nt8FntI5ZsiIBfS0AjOPgHcDtClTLwD1GCZAKmROeABPJmH1j2 fca3kjW21_UHkSorlU4QqeYMs0WWCvyldH2Jk6MI0InTuSPUMt wP3kxMpJOd3SzFnXnIGYH6uJcg6hW_WwyE2J3WNqRnPzpdT-zUosU-QU67_Hk_-mcbRpIf6-d5wFtJ6rJHYoxaKJLDL9UpgXImtlnWkxVabPJ92gG_BO7rxurR p3iLTvARlqCSWtNA_mv7LwcyRGMTyUjTo2LZv0KxRDOHzH41mc sC7e__JBx7E38IlcYZQQQjlbj2jPnS9PmjvGGsAVumlGTB5zrB kgijdEuj_CyV2HJxue_6ifJrwdHz9-ioXX0Gn3tfm0uxIhpiv3cF6bkU4ndiPowdDEIvApv54EW_g2Op VbBD0IYbHODUSatvxzuWUswDEe_weE-x9SazRRg6ndCSFbAD6pI0EvccvaHmnZz7g8zieNTSZwOGX14Ah W_4cXKvl7We4U0aoALwNK8Uu1=w787-h590-no

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/_K6ima01NsX8KTC3cudv_9-oXCr4ptOzQ2FZDZjCZXjG29HcjRKYZaziW__Cf3N7dMvm4XPbA RvVPDDUTUJR67bzHNMIll6CuGlxyzWk64Q3jYGPSijFmwWY1PS JshhFp0UV8J72zKrOFv1jkdNCo2ypP7BAGYPwBWPL2TlKSE0-YCQviuyfj8yUJi6f2c_Ff1Wa-5gV0gT269GPL5fn9LKBBwBhjqcmFsxfBIYzPC7nU5Vng2nymwv k9u-Bcj8sVLGfDkUKbeq-neqWsmZFN3N75o0z7k39KQ2uIpTJWQuYGP1Ai_E099F2mMd1df dxllMpuLkLZfCG05Voqky4wrMkVMa0Uwp2tvnPmcAeGQpCz2Zn 2taiX0FoMz1RTiP9E6IrCwVftYqOgxUU4yWYUC5qcXOiW_xjjZ SST_UnKXj94oDofg5Bb0ZoxUVRUlcGDnwaNncoouiRW2wzlHvE Arf8OiO2R9Y6jQq8gSfWCHQ0wQJdWxPwsWjHlJGLQJcdIc5l4J oSfsoVzEVxhVQ2idNcJxEt-H5k1L7-0en17ef4fzL3yfSySgLWKVN-ihiYRGu-0Df7wtMjzFUyEw3ycgB5v9gu5VBF=w787-h590-no

You can see what I think is the return line hanging there in the first picture... its actually a size larger than the feed line thats connected to the filter.
Per the advice of the 2.7t swap facebook group, I ordered the fitting to 6an, and then a 6an to the right hose barb size.
only issue is this fitting is for the smaller size feed line, it is too small for the return line

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/JFf22liQ-u12zZLfKHdKgfXk6_R-LNJiQxUCCKBo46I86ATqGG9g24EnJs2FC89iJOcBaRs1BbLdhz scGq4Tiy_beWr6S4c4FSj2T47RxDnwwmq9MCJRSJEtEO4dN1Cy bGXhKUFpWcXeL4eADO22xBElejTALTA4uUHZqFyPZbyRg_SVX_ 69_2BSpjBsr_eFxw1lrVQmG6r_bPH7MQ0S191P-NlQOPNcG_EMJ1zYO7yZRWYpVjrFPeKnqeJSQAhEMfTAyIwhTWD iiSV2BmphnYvW76ehI7eITyXRoczmESdfPC2FnonMTBXU08cFG wdYGFq6ch0PLuYHxIP9XZ5W9bwUoFDdkx6ENbxIdi78WMDCo2h 1wuOFcBzRXLlUh2TdnEpqVce8UDNRUkUFa3zV-qaSkYBViVXw-quByCvT--FjjrnvbSkxBTjb3nVDi9n6xXOsOrS6OZno_phtz4AnYSAOQXKN ylQwjIk8JWNAsDcxZQ8BlxjULCsGPrm5oTZrK8XPcCbKRmrGl_ I0GFzzTyt6dnD_MZKnqEEVK8pxTfFREmv0No2T1XUrwDhW6i2m iiKEoSzL2fDfGUzYgpgglefYrSQs16NN=w787-h590-no

So it looks like I can't do it this way, I will need to replace the return line all the way to the tank cause I don't feel safe connecting it to the plastic line without the right fitting.

Also got some more wiring done on the core support, looks like I am missing a harness for the fan module, guess I forgot to get that off the A6.
Will have to order one and see how it goes, if it turns out too complicated for now I might just hardwire the fans to a relay / switch until I get that wiring figured out.

Ali SC3
08-09-2016, 03:12 PM
Well I wish I hadn't cut my return line by the fuel filter, now I will have to make a joint there also but I did figure out how to run the return all the way to the tank.

found this under the back seat and fished a second section of return line up from underneath the car.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Qa8N6Ax81Ftn27nq9rGqeATm7WegWBRWo3gOG3XVIW-NATy3ZhhEUsKuX4m98BDuAJhzLjq7p8gdWI5rb6eUIU21IBpUZ FKyZ57OvR3mNmOLCSxgvRS7X6nKFZRMv-K86eG3uZkZuXyM3lL6cAq3rb5g26_wTxaBUs-eK1c2sNn6B38UgAHhwV3BoyTGjP2rfw_bzrwZ8mx3g9esaPEag GHNgf_pdi2zfmGaGMXyWuELvtMkgUnI_5KqM3ul_-y607mMRdg-wwBUgviQzUQl3Zh3ge1ulzWGcBTtc48_-rkOnyYz0SEMwXR4sGWJBirj8ooWkslidcwJrP3D5HGrQHpsL4q W5fq7nengL0p4tu7AXgsKTbMYMZ5Fs1Ut3zN92YrZ-Cf_upkds6dqmuvXOlodGMVLXyAFvFscnWF-jktIvHAH8T-vNTxP5Kn-XDL3EZpyd2xlL7JdGXz-SUgyr-jn11yGniXG6mdF5GO5mx52Emrlq1SbOmD1W1wg5SEZipvTKCpW pKQsyGNxRubHdPR10EJzg5_MMB5hKdZ51enMezZ-zui5pCnyOXhNZFI0dQ5wnayvWPy9G2x8tD29JeUAFu2QZNYo=w 846-h635-no

Then I removed the plastic crap hose and attached the return line, just need to connect the 2 hoses by the filter now. eventually I will look into redoing the whole line with some stainless lines perhaps. all connected up...
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/GdbXAjMJOuvpZMUxxch4auKnBSvfnVBqT-dU4oIKkljJjE6dbdo4EChE9Xei7QRswOyXgowxiNcilS27PwhY FyOz-6Iaw6Nsrgx9o0-AJnxG9E6hvDe7FKYMJEI0Wm53U3-CsXwK2S2Yig6TVq7Lj3EFOAgKa2N423SlDjZUntzFvLPKkjxx4 KrNCyQYueWYjzWh54In3jpKtKJVNiUF_NwR5qo5WTlnNj8uQMW n1VYJj_D_yI-oZJoMU2LSetY0E7WzByyhPIYYMQb1-m8pkzmwV7nSar4xe8U6UqzhQhJdiL5YLpNbw7aVk5o_BSCs17q 2vNAEwe-PFLBLql0kYrcYaOp4WwDqzD5I-AlmkKV22Lvn-_KH3cRp57DFTzFjLKhIFUyOvPdtWHUflW-YrU_A4orgnTKI6Prc88x72qxr1Z1w7rxemIddqITB713Pe6EHN 6SE7c0sNBfTf98kBRxwRYRHRZaUxAqb-9AFSY9d-DTqfHMAtGvLfRTvAL5M6wampSmgAyjxVeB0X-6Wqb5_5eNOWuMrAvBJdkcmXftpXzdHLN86AlxDexIHKREGaYhK WzhXE5DDIgszSi7nkmvSWJYwPgKh=w846-h635-no

on another note I got the ECS boost gauge installed, its a little too angled towards the driver but it is growing on me
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/othZmUZ9UQbEN4x8J3VyYq8rtKfxbrUuiI3jnBXm2BLIjVKFXn 1ZUJ5xF6P2RR8Y63D0on070hmSI_OfAQZKF-XJocjtRERGwKax6ZKeA4P8BbDu8JI9KO6nBPzvC5um0dOp1n2V AKYvFsmN09Oew1XHdTORnyhohgVXV3uAxJGsbRHIUYrO-FTAwh3UdBJjOiT41NO7yTVpUWQB1mTvHKJEgZUKaxZn6fDKOXx V-tSkCLKHWqNq055le6zbXxRqUxsSKRn7aDWW92IAiZyPxn8F9Vo dhAAdnGZTBTcknFfFHxDdz_GvvDw2Nuq-kLB21zfKsVRf2BkCdFRXH-5zrN3SePLFkJY_HDCHL92yOPf6Un1W8VYTdXHLgY1CXBmQ-KUXzsallq7GHG3dw15h_FQS9wO7c5wi39gGw7dhtWVYP127xbU EZ2VrJ5hoK-CespOsdGfghi7MsPwhCEtWUSoW55_wcvkZLrVHxe4I6KtuGVnu db-NOhYBR5MEyjD2ilJR7KUKLBUNfFNLgNX0YjMuEdftEvUtcYikm Uqt55NHvpSY-j6uQ0E4ZXjca9Iqqcd1tsUP3O7YcUqCZCJGyjYDsHmAic0M=w8 46-h635-no


at my altitude (mile high in Denver) it reads around -5 in/hg which is correct for a digital gauge.
I also modified the installation instructions... they say to remove the arm that closes and opens the vent and leave it closed, but i didn't like that.
So I left the arm on and cut the other side of the flap for the wires to pass through... and my vent still opens and closes like factory, it was only like 2% harder to do
dunno what the heck they were thinking on those instructions, I cant aim the vent, but I want it to shoot out air if I want still you know [>_<]

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/i-JUbbj9kymGuGRJtBKxjsO47C7JCRpUM8T4Q-dM6vtJSLvqzHaIKresAVeeTBxC5nXOIBCS7k6dAC3bjVyQlvm7 StCnUeoZ-KaheGDUhcEIoy-P0pee5Xo7q1_9GrS03KCiHXCjyMUNVuLvU-Ka_sGRIilLo4nXiH2AMZlHDMcd0yEh2_S3dzOAHhxfCgT4lLj9 OrVxQak0MQYHrGLNaYIgd2GTOIBs2UN1SSpbCygc5XoivWz6GS Z4DuGkFLFcOr_UTKKRcE-xuKk-chDPw61eYgUA8cnXs-fKJtUnwYMt9A4HC1Cy7i9bUYXFmUqN3sFhOAubPi9KbMIn8Z9n gRuc8t6jBrtBMuLJ2x5mp9JtMfJ2964ukwxRIxepdC17yHWztk AchzPkPc5lDroHVkxAfCTZXOLHor3hmXzE82IWP5aC3jX7XtnQ xn9fvByokMdEJZFoYy1eQyFeSHFYUYbwK8iksKjkLEphj_To_4 2LOJXHGsVoqbB62bka9eZ7-Y1QBHMZW8mmdHaq2WybIZeww4lW756ffb5IyNgn4yiqF41gXlw 8dy1i1ouf4_dXk3Gcaj8KMDzAh6HH7BVCvZOSWHQMP2Cu=w846-h635-no

k909068
08-10-2016, 07:51 AM
Nice work, good to see this car has another new chapter

Ali SC3
08-11-2016, 02:55 PM
Thanks, getting a little closer on some stuff.

Silly rabbit motorsports came through with the full 3" manual downpipes [drool]
I also acquired a tig welder so I can modify them and build my exhaust how I want [wrench]
everytime I take exhaust work somewhere the just seem to find a new way to do it wrong [headbang]

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/6Bd4sv_HC06lWkVPbiqMKQgMClHmllV_3gKKkb8dHz69vCIPpK jtPEqBmxhKahrz43bRxtL_Cu0j4JyYdefznM29P9Oj6blCBsnK PmePo5xAlStmy7YLekmtIZ8Tvv5VWhJhaO_JxRkBbrRVaFMNAs 2j0bItIln-wA3Br9mGOZUSiHOtXHnFye7qxioUgbYzaY9ytxol7K3Ez070nh 7cw2YUbphe3_qF14nZDnHANub9aV7aV0wV4c-5NUWctFT7OEIA5eBK6787CJeSGgQxKJkKbGXry1Y4-zI3KsUvTI0YOMgQdaTBPYJn_edsU0pLdO12uLc7t7-LZ6f5uThKf3St22ndYq0p9cnMVtAjchR70xXhYcW32_-WRzjQTUVc77igmlX7jDi_UxDFJKiC76VSBbgPfK43c_HrXJCpK zjgCwkOgPe4It48MswCL5Ke9hnx5sEC14pJfD9nkrX3gmqD6pU y_H5urLE2iSSZf8mEcdItFtSy0KR6i7mUMGUoJVY4gFd1PJ1H9 l1gZIhj887GUJBmtkD_uW1ePBSaLaBfRenMQ4cKgde2uYGPOdN _sut17nMvu2e4w72aLvpeieVDJk0bIGCm=w461-h614-no

aluthman
08-11-2016, 03:04 PM
Thanks, getting a little closer on some stuff.

Silly rabbit motorsports came through with the full 3" manual downpipes [drool]
I also acquired a tig welder so I can modify them and build my exhaust how I want [wrench]
everytime I take exhaust work somewhere the just seem to find a new way to do it wrong [headbang]

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/6Bd4sv_HC06lWkVPbiqMKQgMClHmllV_3gKKkb8dHz69vCIPpK jtPEqBmxhKahrz43bRxtL_Cu0j4JyYdefznM29P9Oj6blCBsnK PmePo5xAlStmy7YLekmtIZ8Tvv5VWhJhaO_JxRkBbrRVaFMNAs 2j0bItIln-wA3Br9mGOZUSiHOtXHnFye7qxioUgbYzaY9ytxol7K3Ez070nh 7cw2YUbphe3_qF14nZDnHANub9aV7aV0wV4c-5NUWctFT7OEIA5eBK6787CJeSGgQxKJkKbGXry1Y4-zI3KsUvTI0YOMgQdaTBPYJn_edsU0pLdO12uLc7t7-LZ6f5uThKf3St22ndYq0p9cnMVtAjchR70xXhYcW32_-WRzjQTUVc77igmlX7jDi_UxDFJKiC76VSBbgPfK43c_HrXJCpK zjgCwkOgPe4It48MswCL5Ke9hnx5sEC14pJfD9nkrX3gmqD6pU y_H5urLE2iSSZf8mEcdItFtSy0KR6i7mUMGUoJVY4gFd1PJ1H9 l1gZIhj887GUJBmtkD_uW1ePBSaLaBfRenMQ4cKgde2uYGPOdN _sut17nMvu2e4w72aLvpeieVDJk0bIGCm=w461-h614-no

Slowly but surely, we all seem to learn that.

SamsonKnight
08-11-2016, 07:09 PM
Awesome to see that car getting some more love. Keep the progress and info coming. I'll be using it to do a swap. [:D]

Ali SC3
08-12-2016, 09:40 AM
Slowly but surely, we all seem to learn that.

Oh yeah, learnt it the hard way. one time I had an exhaust made for my SC, i told them exactly what I wanted and when I came back they just did it however they felt like, it made love to the rear control arm... and it was just so so bad by the time it was finished I just drove home, removed it, and trashed it.


Awesome to see that car getting some more love. Keep the progress and info coming. I'll be using it to do a swap. [:D]

Thanks, will do. I have tried to make it as detailed as possible so its easier for others. Its a good swap IMO and if the small stuff is worked out it should be a breeze.

I plan to test fit the exhaust tonight and see what modifications the 3" version needs.
I was a little disappointed to find out the exhaust on the car is dual 2.5" and not dual 3".
I would like to redo all the piping in 3" to the mufflers, but thats going to be alot more work.
I might just neck it down to dual 2.5" for now... I guess it depends how my welding skills develop lol

also been thinking of getting an RNS-E unit for the stereo.. have to look into this whole code unlock thing.

Ali SC3
08-15-2016, 10:00 AM
Got the fuel lines all hooked up and good to go which is nice.

I decided to give a big F U to the b5 fan module and did not bother wiring that crap in... so many wires and i just read that they keep on failing.
so what I did was take a regular old 40 amp automotive relay, and wired up the 2 e-fans to it.
to trigger the relay, I am using the coolant temp sensor, the blue one, on the lower radiator hose which is normally what the b5 fan controller uses.
This way it will turn on the fans whenever it gts to 190 degrees cause that is when the blue switch activates according to online documents.
I used the B7 fan controller wire harness which has the power and ground cable on it for powering the relay, so there are no spare connector hanging in the bay and don't have to run extra wires to battery for my new fan relay.
Surprised no one has bypassed the module entirely like this using the factory coolant switch, just hoping it all works out like it should.

After that I was able to throw the front end core support on for hopefully the last time, and starting to button everything up.

So all I have left is the ecu wiring, fuel pump wiring, a/c wiring (will tackle this later), cut and install shorty downpipes for now, fill trans fluid and coolant, throw front bumper and headlights on and I should be in good shape.

last thing to be done will be get the exhaust looking reasonable, a/c working, and whatever random codes that will inevitably show up.

Ali SC3
08-15-2016, 03:29 PM
Another thing that is bugging me is that I cannot find a 3.2L snub mount bracket anywhere... the one that bolts to the core support.
They have one for the 2.0t and 4.2L, but none for the 3.2L. I might have to go to the dealer or maybe try and see if I can modify the V8 one, the 2.0t one is way too small and will not work.

IF anyone has one laying around in a parts bin somewhere please let me know thanks.

seal66
08-16-2016, 12:48 PM
Have you looked at the b6 3.0L snub bracket. It bolts to the core the support.

Ali SC3
08-16-2016, 02:18 PM
thats the thing, there isn't an aftermarket one for the b6 3.0l either.. its like no one cares about performance on the regular v6.
I think I will just order the v8 poly one, as long as its physically larger than the 2.0t which it looks like in the pics, I figure at the worst I can modify the mounting holes to make it work.

seal66
08-17-2016, 07:27 AM
Are you talking about the bracket itself? Only the 2.0t jas the zero vib one. Others just upgrade the bushing which the v6 has

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Ali SC3
08-17-2016, 09:02 AM
Yeah I need the bracket that bolts to the core support. Just not made for any of the v6's. the one for the 2.7t is from a b5/c5 which is different shape.

I think the poly bushing itself is the same on the 2.0/3.2/4.2, but what I was thinking was buy the aftermarket no vib kit for the v8 which has the bracket and poly bushing , an hope I can make the bracket work.

I am hoping I can get this thing started this weekend. lets see how that goes lol [:D]

Ali SC3
08-18-2016, 01:33 PM
I ordered the v8 snub mount bracket kit, will see how close it is to working and update.

I cut the down pipes in half on the middle section so I can extend them to clear the trans brace.
likely for now I will just get it started with the story downpipes, should sound sweet =)

hoping to get the fluids in and start moving pins around till it starts cooperating, not too much stuff left to get it started will see how it goes.

Ali SC3
08-19-2016, 08:58 AM
So I stated moving over the pins to the B7 body pugs, its going.. interesting to say the least. got alot of wires swapped over, about 60%. need to retrace a few and update the diagram after I get through the last plug I am working on. also not 100% on what to do about the fuel pump wiring, so need to look into that, hopefully I can square that away so I can try a start here soon.

The trans drain and fill plugs require a special socket... great, now I have to order and wait for one of those unless I can find one locally.

the cut downpipes fit and look like they need about a 1-2" extension and should work out nicely.

So I guess i need to order the special trans socket which is a 16mm triple square with a hole in the middle, and that should give me time to get the wiring done and downpipes on at least.

Ali SC3
08-21-2016, 09:35 AM
Well I get distracted easily... instead of finishing up the audi I went and bought another car [:p]

Got my dream car finally!! 1971 corvette stingray

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/RM5Rv0C576Qrmb_lrO9gEsfI6tpEfDt8Ez-QLJ5ULY0oOmm4r-Ao0TDGxZF2mep69laBGRaUgm8gzcKR3MWPPjlNmsr-RGi3a7vsH8fNzu5vffKkI880wqYZmzZdYhZdusAwGMuO4cNPrN dBR6dW5pF7T9AIFjtT93ZKsIJh26l5gWgVizrEBnTYCjU4IubX yKFs9g-Fl8MCNBH3zNwGvASWis4Y5EtYql5RJj5GyVG1Xcao1VTNKg3MV jGyxzx9IsJpS4iOmZJ6y5X4asLdV2uG2aC0OOvyzAi5LDVGx9T 0gj4iNYQAHLutb3rdl5XpcEw-Oc7MzE2slW8moYFVjjEGBfMtFym30fCwCBNNO7HdQ9NHurntD_ 5tRnNwkeadU8epYc-Qjja2brvCt_LBFnkjGMPPjTKidZjp2pefh6oCO9x_0gt-APYXFslEo650zUeix_krYJl3Iaue9IbQy6LOZ7T3HAY6w7Ktb0 PtWJENqJTjv6zLdwLp_aodpQr3JOsj-Fz2V63DtkrA2diJcEyeEOQnBE3XKNmHxIIFNrsb5F08HvRzfBi ALHq5j1dxzVTwecFJun70lHjVLxVho78tAyGBu0hR=w910-h681-no

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/FS1J1k1XTPBNpwUYz8p92MLPQuCKzM-1CJFyWsio2-Wj7Svq8cfwlizLwmA5Jnl1aiw4ebcf7LuRYz_u3ef_DJ0Yr5OB E7ltdyfhei1EzHIXbyeaW-JnH6Fw4Tqdks5x5Zs7m7uuTjBc6U5HbB2o6EzzCXOIN7kLBIw0 DVar545bamwSTe4vxpQfAWHyLwv82zsocxv7-4smByOQwzHrc7lhNtNXDPIs6PDAb0yskBSQuehcGfBRWOM73Wb lRG2K0BJqLs5lkNCsQs_cUljhzAnCej1IuYklx0UURY-lk3k1D48ZmOmd-Ul_IlnsQxlBcPj36A4KprSfKWRNRTlLT6sXlsYR__zcp2lyqnh DBqTtgqwfvPf1ISp-GeREVnMPH8Gt4Ll5Wcs1ox6dhZx3g9CYbDYX_jNyPG2pI_SnMA 86MWHZoXBzIbXmSVNGMPtbesvCEosR-2s465kJCHUxMFQnyS6x8jMKeqFwr2HL9JY2qqVSsOQtwAC7u23 SeaFosHJpWagD0nJXKqDZq5GbfpW1V57-bezvxm2U5Heg-Bb0COshQzSAdpPG4_hWf7OdTK-0XhXEqwIBHiVculF-6ca5KdbMOXsu=w910-h681-no

Now I have too many cars lol, probably going to sell one or two of them as soon as I figure out which ones.

seal66
08-21-2016, 09:40 AM
Damn you man. Nice grab in the corvette. My dream car is a 66-68 stingray

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Ali SC3
08-22-2016, 08:13 AM
haha yeah thanks. I wanted a 68-69 but those are even harder to get. the 70-71 is a little easier to get and still has the metal bumpers and all the good stuff (no emissions crap)

will be doing the spartan beast run up in breck this weekend, so the audi is on hold for a little bit. need to get the special socket to fill/drain the trans and some wiring and it should be ready to start.

Ali SC3
08-23-2016, 09:49 PM
the v8 snub mount bracket is just slightly too small for the bolt spacing on the 3.2 core support, but it looks like if I slot the holes out to the sides and use some washers it would work, so I will give that a go.

b7_Andy
08-25-2016, 02:50 PM
@Ali SC3. It's nice seeing someone close by doing a 2.7 swap. I've been looking at your thread every now and then. You're making some good progress! I just got a 2.7 motor for my B7 and I have no idea how I'm going to swap it lol. Would you mind if I came over one day to check out the car and ask some questions about the swap?


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Ali SC3
08-25-2016, 04:19 PM
Hi Andy, I will be busy for the next couple weeks but yeah you can come check it out and see the mess you are getting yourself into!!! lol
Most of it is all covered in this thread but send me a PM with your #/info and I will get in touch when I have some time to show it, maybe when I am going to try and start it.

I have even been thinking about parting with the car after its running since I recently acquired the vette and have too may cars, undecided if the audi or the sc300 is going.
if you are anyone is interested in the whole package Pm me, still up in the air about it at this point.

Ali SC3
08-31-2016, 10:16 AM
Ugh so pissed, got really close on the wiring, starter is working, ecu is powering on, all I had to do was get the fuel pump to turn on (I think).

I knew I likely needed to run a separate relay for the fuel pump, but instead I tried to match up some color wires to get it to turn through the body plug, and somewhere in that process I got the wrong wire and shorted it to battery 12v and now my cluster doesn't come on, half the interior lights are on always when they used to only be on with ignition, and my stereo says safe mode.... [=(]

I checked all the fuses and they seem good.. damn I really screwed the pooch on this one. now I have to figure out what I fried. [facepalm]
I am thinking its a relay, the cluster itself, or one of the modules in the car... even worse I think the wire I shorted was the can bus low wire so it could have hit quite a few things.. [headbang]

anyone have any advice or suggestions I could really use some, finishing up the snub mount and running the separate relay back to the fuel pump.
If I can reverse what I did and get back to square one I might be able to get this thing moving... just cant figure out what I fried.

anyone ever had a bad/fried cluster? what were the symptoms? I have also heard I could have fried the comfort control module? does that fit my symptoms?

I charged the battery up fully and that didn't help. gonna start pulling relays one at a time tonight to see if I can find one that makes the lights that are on go off, maybe its stuck or something but running out of ideas here before I have to start throwing parts like a cluster at the issue... or maybe now is the time to downgrade to the b6 cluster so I dont have the gas door open warning light later lol

Ephry73
09-01-2016, 07:01 AM
Well I wish I hadn't cut my return line by the fuel filter, now I will have to make a joint there also but I did figure out how to run the return all the way to the tank.

found this under the back seat and fished a second section of return line up from underneath the car.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Qa8N6Ax81Ftn27nq9rGqeATm7WegWBRWo3gOG3XVIW-NATy3ZhhEUsKuX4m98BDuAJhzLjq7p8gdWI5rb6eUIU21IBpUZ FKyZ57OvR3mNmOLCSxgvRS7X6nKFZRMv-K86eG3uZkZuXyM3lL6cAq3rb5g26_wTxaBUs-eK1c2sNn6B38UgAHhwV3BoyTGjP2rfw_bzrwZ8mx3g9esaPEag GHNgf_pdi2zfmGaGMXyWuELvtMkgUnI_5KqM3ul_-y607mMRdg-wwBUgviQzUQl3Zh3ge1ulzWGcBTtc48_-rkOnyYz0SEMwXR4sGWJBirj8ooWkslidcwJrP3D5HGrQHpsL4q W5fq7nengL0p4tu7AXgsKTbMYMZ5Fs1Ut3zN92YrZ-Cf_upkds6dqmuvXOlodGMVLXyAFvFscnWF-jktIvHAH8T-vNTxP5Kn-XDL3EZpyd2xlL7JdGXz-SUgyr-jn11yGniXG6mdF5GO5mx52Emrlq1SbOmD1W1wg5SEZipvTKCpW pKQsyGNxRubHdPR10EJzg5_MMB5hKdZ51enMezZ-zui5pCnyOXhNZFI0dQ5wnayvWPy9G2x8tD29JeUAFu2QZNYo=w 846-h635-no

Then I removed the plastic crap hose and attached the return line, just need to connect the 2 hoses by the filter now. eventually I will look into redoing the whole line with some stainless lines perhaps. all connected up...
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/GdbXAjMJOuvpZMUxxch4auKnBSvfnVBqT-dU4oIKkljJjE6dbdo4EChE9Xei7QRswOyXgowxiNcilS27PwhY FyOz-6Iaw6Nsrgx9o0-AJnxG9E6hvDe7FKYMJEI0Wm53U3-CsXwK2S2Yig6TVq7Lj3EFOAgKa2N423SlDjZUntzFvLPKkjxx4 KrNCyQYueWYjzWh54In3jpKtKJVNiUF_NwR5qo5WTlnNj8uQMW n1VYJj_D_yI-oZJoMU2LSetY0E7WzByyhPIYYMQb1-m8pkzmwV7nSar4xe8U6UqzhQhJdiL5YLpNbw7aVk5o_BSCs17q 2vNAEwe-PFLBLql0kYrcYaOp4WwDqzD5I-AlmkKV22Lvn-_KH3cRp57DFTzFjLKhIFUyOvPdtWHUflW-YrU_A4orgnTKI6Prc88x72qxr1Z1w7rxemIddqITB713Pe6EHN 6SE7c0sNBfTf98kBRxwRYRHRZaUxAqb-9AFSY9d-DTqfHMAtGvLfRTvAL5M6wampSmgAyjxVeB0X-6Wqb5_5eNOWuMrAvBJdkcmXftpXzdHLN86AlxDexIHKREGaYhK WzhXE5DDIgszSi7nkmvSWJYwPgKh=w846-h635-no

on another note I got the ECS boost gauge installed, its a little too angled towards the driver but it is growing on me
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/othZmUZ9UQbEN4x8J3VyYq8rtKfxbrUuiI3jnBXm2BLIjVKFXn 1ZUJ5xF6P2RR8Y63D0on070hmSI_OfAQZKF-XJocjtRERGwKax6ZKeA4P8BbDu8JI9KO6nBPzvC5um0dOp1n2V AKYvFsmN09Oew1XHdTORnyhohgVXV3uAxJGsbRHIUYrO-FTAwh3UdBJjOiT41NO7yTVpUWQB1mTvHKJEgZUKaxZn6fDKOXx V-tSkCLKHWqNq055le6zbXxRqUxsSKRn7aDWW92IAiZyPxn8F9Vo dhAAdnGZTBTcknFfFHxDdz_GvvDw2Nuq-kLB21zfKsVRf2BkCdFRXH-5zrN3SePLFkJY_HDCHL92yOPf6Un1W8VYTdXHLgY1CXBmQ-KUXzsallq7GHG3dw15h_FQS9wO7c5wi39gGw7dhtWVYP127xbU EZ2VrJ5hoK-CespOsdGfghi7MsPwhCEtWUSoW55_wcvkZLrVHxe4I6KtuGVnu db-NOhYBR5MEyjD2ilJR7KUKLBUNfFNLgNX0YjMuEdftEvUtcYikm Uqt55NHvpSY-j6uQ0E4ZXjca9Iqqcd1tsUP3O7YcUqCZCJGyjYDsHmAic0M=w8 46-h635-no


at my altitude (mile high in Denver) it reads around -5 in/hg which is correct for a digital gauge.
I also modified the installation instructions... they say to remove the arm that closes and opens the vent and leave it closed, but i didn't like that.
So I left the arm on and cut the other side of the flap for the wires to pass through... and my vent still opens and closes like factory, it was only like 2% harder to do
dunno what the heck they were thinking on those instructions, I cant aim the vent, but I want it to shoot out air if I want still you know [>_<]

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/i-JUbbj9kymGuGRJtBKxjsO47C7JCRpUM8T4Q-dM6vtJSLvqzHaIKresAVeeTBxC5nXOIBCS7k6dAC3bjVyQlvm7 StCnUeoZ-KaheGDUhcEIoy-P0pee5Xo7q1_9GrS03KCiHXCjyMUNVuLvU-Ka_sGRIilLo4nXiH2AMZlHDMcd0yEh2_S3dzOAHhxfCgT4lLj9 OrVxQak0MQYHrGLNaYIgd2GTOIBs2UN1SSpbCygc5XoivWz6GS Z4DuGkFLFcOr_UTKKRcE-xuKk-chDPw61eYgUA8cnXs-fKJtUnwYMt9A4HC1Cy7i9bUYXFmUqN3sFhOAubPi9KbMIn8Z9n gRuc8t6jBrtBMuLJ2x5mp9JtMfJ2964ukwxRIxepdC17yHWztk AchzPkPc5lDroHVkxAfCTZXOLHor3hmXzE82IWP5aC3jX7XtnQ xn9fvByokMdEJZFoYy1eQyFeSHFYUYbwK8iksKjkLEphj_To_4 2LOJXHGsVoqbB62bka9eZ7-Y1QBHMZW8mmdHaq2WybIZeww4lW756ffb5IyNgn4yiqF41gXlw 8dy1i1ouf4_dXk3Gcaj8KMDzAh6HH7BVCvZOSWHQMP2Cu=w846-h635-no

Looking good brother. Haven't visited in a while. I'll check how my return line is routed if you still need help. I'm in the process of ordering an efk for the car. I know Fall is almost here, but I want the cooling to be there.

The gauge is not that bad and I will try your version of the install(have one of those on the way)

Keep the posts coming.

E


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Ali SC3
09-01-2016, 08:12 AM
Thanks Ephry. The gauge is growing on me, I like it now since I am used to seeing it. Yeah definitely don't do it their way, on a 90+ degree day I would be cursing the gauge if it didn't move any air at all, my way it still opens and closes just fine.

I got the return line all routed up, should be good on that front now. I just need to finish connecting a separate relay for the fuel pump, almost got that done too.

So I figured out I did blow the cluster when I shorted the can low wire to +12v, bad idea...
But MEC who sold me the car saved the day, he had a spare RS4 cluster sitting around with a broken front plastic piece, so after taking the 2 apart and swapping the front cover I now have a working RS4 cluster which powers the car again. it says safe mode but I will deal with that later, the C5 ecu will not care for now only thing is mileage doesn't show until I get it out of safe mode.

I will call this the "accidental RS4 cluster upgrade". I really like the color lcd screen in the middle its so much better than the stock cluster.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/otOyEbRs9UDNcCycR7PqSK_BNFZiC0lF7k6wCvolXg7K57xyaT AmEbDgvyJGk7vcilTrOawPIfjpkHESYJnPprjdEW68bW4Y0PRl 07qfOzzhN-2H_YgYryj3Ei5vu8qAUnbSHNoCHWB8yiAoX-O2Wsgxi5UkAMEQ7TtFa1erc0b4TvfxCamUoAj5UIw3obqSyk8j phelBdBLsIUErhHARduA075NT82qIG_CFreD_5V9mVNbtgShER JiS0zVVn-jEAxSxRiGH-CRsNMz0zW60n6DrxzQUMSF9MOjkLhCFjwJEA0YZbs0c2Py2zUg w72SqKcriwA7I4vhREFOxQFXtlO9TIsUM3DhmmjpYRr6L44Pld qf4SuB5J29RIXlEmDzPGsIG7q0PDIQiRNTJalVBIsWpriaIdmM OOadLOtZRsmn4xg9VLb71hk43IGnQuTee6PgB2rijSs3EdpXXo vaDPX2K77RRhy2eHWv1upha3hxD3wVmCjZ0su3XnGz_uAIcGsv hK94uJNe20sJaO4V6R5l4nXWyTz80s6eCVdCVniOks5ui4TusI R3MgzTMY22_3BBj94JUYlVfyhH8GYTgTBHHFvSP-hhoU4bUKoTjycA5hANGw=w819-h614-no

Just got to finish installing the snub, power up the fuel pump and I should be in business.
also have to fill trans with fluid (got the special socket from ECS) and put the downpipes on and I'll be driving it hopefully.

seal66
09-01-2016, 08:15 AM
Man so close to getting the ole girl running.

Glad mec was able to save the day man.

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simple2me
09-01-2016, 08:39 AM
Made some progress on the wiring, stared at the track diagrams for a while and put together a chart for the 2.0t body plugs.
the pins I am pretty sure are right are in green, the pin numbers with a question mark I need to double check cause on my printout they were a little blurry... but its a good start.

ones in Yellow not sure if they are needed, the ones in Red I didn't find a corresponding pin so I think those get skipped... but again, not 100% sure yet still working on it.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-xwzjgvgURj8/V5efnvmpXmI/AAAAAAABdI0/RTgfQ-343vA5QbTwawjrRzUnHUlhQcpFwCCo/s912/audi%2Bwiring%2Bdiagram.jpg


did you get all of your wiring above figured out? I will be starting this swap soon on my GF's car. I'd like to have everything with the harness done prior to starting that way it's plug n play. down pipes, etc.... won't be an issue. I have a tig machine at home so I can do my own exhaust.

Ali SC3
09-01-2016, 09:25 AM
@ Seal, yeah man me too Mec really saved me on that one, otherwise I would have had to order one online and wouldn't know what I broke until it came in. now I can get back to the last few bits of wiring.

@simple2me, that wiring above was like 80% correct, there were quite a few mismatches as in a wire on one side and no wire on the other.
also for some like the red/black (thick) starter wire, the pins are different sizes so you have to cut and solder the 2.7 wire to the 2.0 wire.
As soon as I get it running and can pull codes I will post a corrected diagram, i would not suggest using the one above if you are doing it in advance, its kinda all over the place but I think I did get the tps stuff right on the white plug, will see once its started. I thought of removing the pic since if its floating around people might try and use it, but since alot of the wires do match up I figured at this point for someone going blind its better than nothing so I left it up.

give me a couple weeks and I should have it up for all the body plugs (including the black/blue wire that is switched 12V, the red/black which is starter wire).
things that are run separate are the fuel pump relay wiring, a constant fused 12V wire for the ecu for a red/green (thick) wire (forgot which plug), and a red (thin) wire (on 2.7 black plug). these wires are all you need to start, the rest are things like tps, coolant, obd2, warning stuff etc...

simple2me
09-01-2016, 09:36 AM
@ Seal, yeah man me too Mec really saved me on that one, otherwise I would have had to order one online and wouldn't know what I broke until it came in. now I can get back to the last few bits of wiring.

@simple2me, that wiring above was like 80% correct, there were quite a few mismatches as in a wire on one side and no wire on the other.
also for some like the red/black (thick) starter wire, the pins are different sizes so you have to cut and solder the 2.7 wire to the 2.0 wire.
As soon as I get it running and can pull codes I will post a corrected diagram, i would not suggest using the one above if you are doing it in advance, its kinda all over the place but I think I did get the tps stuff right on the white plug, will see once its started. I thought of removing the pic since if its floating around people might try and use it, but since alot of the wires do match up I figured at this point for someone going blind its better than nothing so I left it up.

give me a couple weeks and I should have it up for all the body plugs (including the black/blue wire that is switched 12V, the red/black which is starter wire).
things that are run separate are the fuel pump relay wiring, a constant fused 12V wire for the ecu for a red/green (thick) wire (forgot which plug), and a red (thin) wire (on 2.7 black plug). these wires are all you need to start, the rest are things like tps, coolant, obd2, warning stuff etc...


I plan on starting it in a few months. I've just been doing all of the research. I'll be watching for your revised wiring pic. Thanks!! The more I have together when I get started the less time she will spend behind the wheel of my ride!!

Ali SC3
09-01-2016, 09:47 AM
^hhaha I feel ya on that one, Should def have it up by then, I have a copy that I have marked up and have lots of notes on so as soon as I get it running and decipher it I will post it up, also with pics o the body plugs themselves. then I will retire and never touch an Audi electrical system ever again [:D]

Mec was telling me the b7 primes the fuel pump when you open the drivers door, so he had pulled the fuse for the fuel pump, which I discovered when I was checking for blown fuses, so now I am wondering if my original wiring might have worked... but cause of the missing fuse it obviously wouldn't do anything. but I am just going to bypass it with the fuel pump relay for now cause that is what everyone who does the swap ends up doing, rather not waste any more time trying to get the b7 system to work until after I know everything else works.

simple2me
09-01-2016, 09:57 AM
^hhaha I feel ya on that one, Should def have it up by then, I have a copy that I have marked up and have lots of notes on so as soon as I get it running and decipher it I will post it up, also with pics o the body plugs themselves. then I will retire and never touch an Audi electrical system ever again [:D]

Mec was telling me the b7 primes the fuel pump when you open the drivers door, so he had pulled the fuse for the fuel pump, which I discovered when I was checking for blown fuses, so now I am wondering if my original wiring might have worked... but cause of the missing fuse it obviously wouldn't do anything. but I am just going to bypass it with the fuel pump relay for now cause that is what everyone who does the swap ends up doing, rather not waste any more time trying to get the b7 system to work until after I know everything else works.

I love messing with wires. I've chopped up harnesses and soldered ends until my eyes crossed and finger tips were raw. I'm ready to get started!!!

Ephry73
09-01-2016, 10:00 AM
Very nice. The cluster is definitely a nice upgrade.


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Ali SC3
09-02-2016, 08:46 AM
progressing slowly... Cluster has been sent off to speedo solutions so it will work in this car, will take a week or 2 to get back.
I ran the fuel pump relay to the fuel pump so good on that front.

Going to fill the trans up with fluid now that I have the special socket, and also get the snub mount and front end back on.
Getting there but now I have a little more time cause I have to wait on the cluster anyways.

Ali SC3
09-08-2016, 03:33 PM
slotted out the holes for the aftermarket poly v8 snub mount with an angle grinder and used large washers to bolt it on to the B7 v6 core support.
Seemed to work out just fine but was a bit of a pain lining it all up and getting the poly mount all the way on the mount on the engine, used a BFH.

now the front end is mostly together, will get the trans fluid and coolant filled and wait for the cluster to arrive, then hopefully the engine will start and run fine [:D]

Ali SC3
09-16-2016, 09:33 AM
So I got the RS4 cluster back last night, put it back in and everything works again which is a major relief, and bonus is mileage is right, very happy about that [:D]

Tom at speedosolutions really hooked it up he is a great guy to work with, they were super busy but he worked me in due to my unique situation and sent it back with 2 day shipping which was awesome, really appreciate it Tom!!!

So now I just need to figure out if there is oil in the trans since I got the special socket, gonna drain and refill either way.
Then fill coolant, and last major thing is I need to put the first part of the downpipes on so I am not dirtying up the engine bay when I fire it up.
I sort of cut them in half for extending so I will just put the first half on for now, that will shoot the exhaust down towards the ground I hope lol.

Will try and do some of this on the weekend. not sure how much time I will get though busy trying to get work done so I can go to Austin City limits at the end of the month, have a charity race on sat, and yeah just busy in general. maybe Sat evening, we shall see. Andrew I may give you a call for the first start attempt if you are around let me know.

jbain2
09-16-2016, 09:52 AM
So I got the RS4 cluster back last night, put it back in and everything works again which is a major relief, and bonus is mileage is right, very happy about that [:D]

Tom at speedosolutions really hooked it up he is a great guy to work with, they were super busy but he worked me in due to my unique situation and sent it back with 2 day shipping which was awesome, really appreciate it Tom!!

I have been talking with Tom about the cluster issue I am having with the gas cap issue. I have worked with him before with my B5. Super knowledge and friendly. Awesome turnaround time. Hopefully we can pinpoint the issue. Looking at possibly retrofitting a RB4 cluster to see if that allows the warning to be negated.

Did you have to deal with this at all?


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b7_Andy
09-16-2016, 10:50 AM
So I got the RS4 cluster back last night, put it back in and everything works again which is a major relief, and bonus is mileage is right, very happy about that [:D]

Tom at speedosolutions really hooked it up he is a great guy to work with, they were super busy but he worked me in due to my unique situation and sent it back with 2 day shipping which was awesome, really appreciate it Tom!!!

So now I just need to figure out if there is oil in the trans since I got the special socket, gonna drain and refill either way.
Then fill coolant, and last major thing is I need to put the first part of the downpipes on so I am not dirtying up the engine bay when I fire it up.
I sort of cut them in half for extending so I will just put the first half on for now, that will shoot the exhaust down towards the ground I hope lol.

Will try and do some of this on the weekend. not sure how much time I will get though busy trying to get work done so I can go to Austin City limits at the end of the month, have a charity race on sat, and yeah just busy in general. maybe Sat evening, we shall see. Andrew I may give you a call for the first start attempt if you are around let me know.

Man you're pretty much finished! And yes I want to see this bad boy fire up, I should be free Sunday!

Ali SC3
09-16-2016, 01:35 PM
I have been talking with Tom about the cluster issue I am having with the gas cap issue. I have worked with him before with my B5. Super knowledge and friendly. Awesome turnaround time. Hopefully we can pinpoint the issue. Looking at possibly retrofitting a RB4 cluster to see if that allows the warning to be negated.

Did you have to deal with this at all?

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I haven't gotten there yet, but with the old cluster and this cluster I haven't seen that message pop up on the display, mainly just tells me there is no coolant and to push clutch in to start. I figure it has nothing to do with the engine so it should be popping up if I had that issue, hoping I don't have to deal with it but will find out later I guess... still haven't gotten the obd2 hooked up from the ecu either so I can't even pull codes yet but its on the to do list. maybe its on certain models or something... will try and pop the gas cap open and see if I get the message then.


Man you're pretty much finished! And yes I want to see this bad boy fire up, I should be free Sunday!

Cool, will let you know when I am going to try it, there is a possibility I might not even get to it this weekend but lets see.

Ali SC3
09-19-2016, 01:17 PM
Yeah I didn't get to it at all, not sure i will even have time in the next few weeks but will update as soon as I get something done... smh

Ali SC3
09-21-2016, 10:37 AM
Well got the trans fluid drained and mostly refilled, for some reason almost 4 quarts I had didn't fill it up so had to order another bottle... weird.
Have a power steering leak on the line to the rack which I can tell from when I was turning the motor over.
Ordered new bolts/washers luckily I can reach them from underneath with the drivers down pipe off.
got the passenger "shorty" downpipe mounted, drivers is off until I replace those bolts/washers for the PS rack.

noticed the lower coolant hose is kinked apparently the 3.0/3.2l radiator has a different angle on the "slot" than the 2.7t radiator.
not sure if I want to try the 3.0 hose, or just install the 2.7t radiator. the 2.7 radiator I have is an auto one and has the trans cooler fittings on it, so I may grab a manual radiator if I go that route.
I also may just try filing down the tab on the 3.0/3.2l radiator to get the line to face the right way, its a bit of a mess but getting there.

Ali SC3
09-22-2016, 10:01 AM
Decided to shave the tabs off the 3.0/3.2l radiator so the lower hose could be clocked at a better angle, seems to have worked just fine.
Might just test fill the system with water to check for any leaks before I waste a bunch of coolant.


getting closer. with any luck I can get the last few things resolved and fire this bad boy up.

Ali SC3
10-05-2016, 03:22 PM
Well I have good news and bad news.

The good news is that I ran the fuel pump relay and the car will fire up now and start...

The bad news is that it seems to rev up and instantly shut off within like 2 seconds...
Not really sure what to do was not expecting that to happen. I got the cluster programmed to the key and the climate control is working so I think its all communicating with each other.
I am wondering now if the 2002 a6 ecu has an immobilizer?? I thought the 2.7t motors did not have that function.

anyone have any clues? do I need to send the ecu to get reprogrammed or something to remove immobilizer, guess i could do that with a tune also?
really got excited when it fired up it sounds great so any help is appreciated lol, want to start playing with this thing.

jbain2
10-05-2016, 03:28 PM
2001+ C5's had immobilizer. I believe you will get a cluster error and won't even be able to start the car.

http://www.audiworld.com/forums/a6-s6-c5-platform-discussion-7/understanding-differences-between-audi-a6-clusters-compatibility-issues-2798354/

http://nefariousmotorsports.com/forum/index.php?topic=2973.0

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Ali SC3
10-05-2016, 03:58 PM
well mine lets me start it over and over again, and it sounds healthy on the start and for the second it runs, but clearly it seems to be the immobilizer in the ecu that is shutting it down cause its like clockwork. Since I have a swap going on the cluster just talks to the car and all that is working, I think the 2.7t ecu that has no immobilizer doesn't need to talk to the cluster.

I might try my brothers ecu that doesn't have immobilizer and see if I can flash my box, or just order one on ebay that is already defeated.

I thought I had everything ready to go... forgot that the ecu could have an immobilizer also.. doh [headbang]

jbain2
10-05-2016, 04:00 PM
No immobilizer on the B5 ECU. I have an extra m-box ECU if you are in need. The C5 has them after 2001. Are you doing your own ECU and cluster configurations?


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Ali SC3
10-07-2016, 08:49 AM
Yeah I found a place to send my ecu to and they are going to flash it with a stage 2 tune, and also defeat the immobilizer, so I should be ready to go after that.
My ecu was from a 2002 c5 so yeah it has the immobilizer. hopefully this should be the last coding thing. the rs4 cluster was already coded by speedosolutions to my b7 key so car wise I think I am good.

Removed the power steering line hose cause it had a leak, I think it was a crush washer... so I got new washers and a bolt, but for the life of me cannot get the new one back on.
Its such tight area to work in also, hopefully the next time I try it I can get it on, I was under there or like an hour trying... smh [facepalm]

Ephry73
10-07-2016, 11:26 AM
Nice. I'm still
Trying to get a decent tune for mine. Current ecu is tuned, but no one knows what it's in the damn tune. Lol


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Ali SC3
10-07-2016, 02:31 PM
Yeah that is why I was worried about getting the one off ebay. My brother had a terrible tune on the ecu he got, it was all over the place and asking 22 psi from k03's which is apparently ridiculous I have been told. Since then he got a tune loaded on by someone he knew who actually does tuning type stuff, and his runs perfect now no hiccups at all, boost is rock solid @ 19psi, so I am going to send mine to the same guy as he is nice enough to do it for mine also. I can ask him if he is willing to do others and I can let you know if you are interested in it also.

If I can just get the power steering hose back on I would be oh so happy, at least I have a week or 2 until the ecu gets there and back to knock it out.

b7_Andy
10-07-2016, 06:35 PM
Yeah that is why I was worried about getting the one off ebay. My brother had a terrible tune on the ecu he got, it was all over the place and asking 22 psi from k03's which is apparently ridiculous I have been told. Since then he got a tune loaded on by someone he knew who actually does tuning type stuff, and his runs perfect now no hiccups at all, boost is rock solid @ 19psi, so I am going to send mine to the same guy as he is nice enough to do it for mine also. I can ask him if he is willing to do others and I can let you know if you are interested in it also.

If I can just get the power steering hose back on I would be oh so happy, at least I have a week or 2 until the ecu gets there and back to knock it out.

Is it a guy in Colorado that's doing the tune?

Ephry73
10-07-2016, 06:36 PM
Yeah that is why I was worried about getting the one off ebay. My brother had a terrible tune on the ecu he got, it was all over the place and asking 22 psi from k03's which is apparently ridiculous I have been told. Since then he got a tune loaded on by someone he knew who actually does tuning type stuff, and his runs perfect now no hiccups at all, boost is rock solid @ 19psi, so I am going to send mine to the same guy as he is nice enough to do it for mine also. I can ask him if he is willing to do others and I can let you know if you are interested in it also.

If I can just get the power steering hose back on I would be oh so happy, at least I have a week or 2 until the ecu gets there and back to knock it out.

Good to know. Knowing is more than half the battle.

I'm going to play with nefmoto for a bit and see if I can get get it fine tuned for 91 octane.

Are you using a stock hose or aftermarket? I may do something different with the steering pump and reservoir but I'll wait until next year. Right now I just want to enjoy the car as daily driver without too many hiccups


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Ali SC3
10-09-2016, 10:23 PM
Is it a guy in Colorado that's doing the tune?

No I have to send it off, hes probably done lots of people tunes on here I want to say.


Good to know. Knowing is more than half the battle.

I'm going to play with nefmoto for a bit and see if I can get get it fine tuned for 91 octane.

Are you using a stock hose or aftermarket? I may do something different with the steering pump and reservoir but I'll wait until next year. Right now I just want to enjoy the car as daily driver without too many hiccups


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Good luck, I didn't have the time to mess with that side of things also, I need this car to start working soon then I can play with more stuff.

I am using the stock b7 hose and reservoir and everything and only thing not b7 is the stock c5 power steering hose from rack to the back of the motor. Just bent it little bit wasn't too bad. I think I reused the crush washer on install day which was a bit rushed and that got me into trouble.

I finally got the new bolt and washers in last night on the b7 hose to the rack after another 30 minutes of wiggling around under there.
coolant is in, power steering topped off, probably install the front bumper and hope I won't have to take it off again... but with this car most likely Ill have to lol.
also need to figure out how to wire the obd2 port. I think its just one wire though not sure yet.

The good news is the motor turns over nicely so when I get the ecu back I should be in business.
Right now it has 3" open shorty downpipes, I cut them in half so they are facing the ground and haven't had them extended yet.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LD0FuqK5mWg

Ali SC3
10-12-2016, 02:29 PM
So I think I got the right wire from the ecu for the obd2 port, and I ran it to the connector, anyone know which wire you tap that into at the obd2 port? need to find some diagrams.

Ali SC3
10-17-2016, 03:32 PM
Well apparently my ecu was locked down previously, maybe someone had a tune on it. Anywho, the guy helping me out soldered on a new chip and was able to program it, so its on the way back really excited about it working finally and the extra customer service saved me from buying another used ecu to get working.

figured out the wiring for the obd2 port, K line gets hooked up to pin 7 apparently. There are some can high and low wires, but I am going to try it with just the K line and see how it goes hoping I don't have to run those also but it wouldn't be that hard to add later if I need.

http://i40.tinypic.com/1tpkyx.jpg

I also decided to beef up my relays so I ordered 3 50 amp relays with thicker wiring.
One I will use for the fuel pump which will hang out by the battery, its ground triggered directly from the 2.7t ecu (and works I tested it).
The other 2 I will wire one up to each fan so I don't overload any of the wires... I have heard the stock fans take quite a bit of power and can burn up wiring if you don't go big enough.
I am ground triggering these relays off the coolant sensor on the lower radiator hose and removed all the stock fan module crap cause it was bulky, complicated, expensive, designed to run only 1 big fan, and unnecessary IMO.
The only part of that system you really need is the coolant sensor switch, at the right temperature it will close the ground side of the relay circuit and turn on the fans, and that sounds good to me.. I don't need 4 fan speeds [:D]

hopefully that should be enough, the saga continues [wrench]

Ali SC3
10-20-2016, 08:20 AM
ITS ALIVE!!! starts right up with the new ecu and sounds great.

noticed the throttle pedal is not doing anything, so I must have messed up the wiring on that... will get the obd2 working and pull some codes and see if I can narrow it down.
at least I got it running, pretty happy about that. gotta fix throttle, a little more wiring, and an exhaust and should be in business.

Will get a start up video soon.

Andrewiffic
10-20-2016, 02:10 PM
Sweet build. Can't wait to see more of it.

b7_Andy
10-20-2016, 02:26 PM
ITS ALIVE!!! starts right up with the new ecu and sounds great.

noticed the throttle pedal is not doing anything, so I must have messed up the wiring on that... will get the obd2 working and pull some codes and see if I can narrow it down.
at least I got it running, pretty happy about that. gotta fix throttle, a little more wiring, and an exhaust and should be in business.

Will get a start up video soon.

That's awesome man! Can I check it out this weekend? I know I've been bugging you for a while haha, but seriously though good work! Especially since it seems like you did most of it yourself...

Ali SC3
10-21-2016, 08:28 AM
Thanks, yeah its coming along nicely, I have a feeling I will really enjoy this car once its done.

Yeah Andrew I should be working on it some tonight, probably early tomorrow to mid day, and possibly sunday if its still not worked out. I would like to get to drive it around the block is my end goal.

I got the throttle working.. well at least it revs up now. Is it supposed to be pretty noisy as in with the engine off and pushing the pedal?? Cause I can hear the throttle body quite loudly with these electric type noises.
the diagrams between the 2 cars are a little vague but I seem to have mapped it what I think is right... only thing is I hooked up the vag com, and the pedal sensor only goes from 14% to 76%... and I thought it should be 0 - 100%. other odd thing is that the oil temp display on the rs4 cluster reads 0 and when I push the throttle down it goes all the way up to 360+ degrees F lol, have no idea why.
I am thinking maybe even though the throttle is working cause of the range being off and that issue maybe I have something wrong, like the power and ground swapped, going to test the pins after work today.

Got the can high and low wires hooked up, as well as the K wire... so now I can pull codes, came up with a decent amount nothing too shocking but not sure what is recent and what is old so I cleared them and will see what comes back again after I start the car after work. it did say open circuit for the oil temp sensor on the rs4 cluster, but its odd that it shows the values that go up when the throttle pedal is pushed... so I think either its an issue with the throttle pedal affecting the oil temp, or the oil temp not being hooked up right affecting the throttle pedal. hopefully I can get to the bottom of it without frying my ecu [confused]

Ali SC3
10-21-2016, 09:18 AM
well according to this thread my sensor seems to be in an acceptable range, which is nice cause I have no idea how to fix it lol

http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/405361-VAG-COM-block-062-pedal-position-max-at-78-at-WOT


To be clear, I don't think you have a problem with the pedal sensors. Your specific max % values seem to be within a reasonable range of tolerances for the sensor/pedal assembly parameters. You can measure the sensor raw resistance value at the ECU, but it should be ~ the same as at the pedal assembly plus less than 1 Ohm additional resistance for the wires.

From the Bentley:

For sensor 1, G79, Starting from the idle stop position and moving the pedal to the maximum possible travel stop position, the value of the pedal position shown in measuring block 062, field 3 is 12% to 97%, "Tolerance range from 12% to 97% is not fully utilized".

For sensor 2, G185, Starting from the idle stop position and moving the pedal to the maximum possible travel stop position, the value of the pedal position sensor in measuring block 062 field 4 is from 4% to 49%, "Tolerance range from 4% to 49% not fully utilized".

I interpret "Tolerance range not fully utilized", to mean that the potential minimum and maximum values of the pedal position given as 12% to 97% and 4% to 49% are not the actual minimum and maximum range values as shown in the measuring blocks. The actual values shown in the measuring blocks are therefore more than 12%/4% and/or less 97%/49%. (#1, 12% > = < 97% and #2, 4% > = < 49%) The actual minimum and maximum % values are not defined.

The sensor travel %, is the % of the 5 vdc voltage supplied to the sensor from the ECU, back to the ECU.

SamsonKnight
10-27-2016, 09:24 AM
Glad to see the build is still going strong!

Ali SC3
11-02-2016, 11:47 AM
Its still going but kind of getting annoyed with the wiring to say the least...

I found out that the maf, o2's and a bunch of actuators like the wastegate etc.. were saying short to ground on the vag com... apparently I missed a 12V wire that powers all of them.
So I got that connected and majority of the codes went away (yay!), but then the car wouldn't stay running on the maf...

turns out in my rush to get it all together with the new intake filter and piping, I put the maf on backwards [headbang]
So after flipping it around, it actually worked idled and ran for a while, until the car warmed up and then it stalled out wouldn't rev anymore.. until I diconnect the maf sensor then it runs fine.

So I am thinking that because I have shorty downpipes that are only like 6" long and I have the o2 sensors plugged in only a couple inches away from the opening, they must be seeing a bunch of extra air and when its in closed loop with the maf it freaks out and adds a bunch of fuel, or so I am hoping that is only what is going on. Cause when it was running on the maf I tried to do a pull and it started backfiring when it hit boost, like it was way too rich pretty much, hard to say for sure though.

So I guess my next steps are to disconnect the front o2's until I get the exhaust done and see if it runs properly, and I am going to clean the maf while I am at it.
I have heard the maf sensors do go bad from time to time so worst case I will swap it with my brothers for a final test.

I also triple checked the wiring on my oil level and oil temp connections, and they appear to be right but the cluster doesn't agree.. so I searched online and found out its a common failure point again, great.
So I ordered a new oil level sensor and am hoping that its the sensor itself and not my wiring.

the thing that still bugs me the most about all the wiring is that the oil temp display on the rs4 cluster currently goes up and down when I push the throttle, and the throttle sounds like it has some sort of shorting out noise... but the wierd thing is the throttle works just fine, both sensors on the throttle via vag com read correctly, and my wiring diagrams check out so I am not sure whats going on there, maybe my throttle body is extra noisy lol... more likely I have a wire attached wrong. I am hoping that connecting a working oil level/temp sensor will correct the issue, but I don't have my hopes up for the oil temp as something seems crossed there.

I am wondering if its possible to get the power and ground wires to the throttle pedal sensor backwards and the signal still show up properly, I am going to test the pins at the pedal themselves to make sure I have it right first cause I checked the diagrams and it seems correct as is, and I don't want to short out the ecu.

pretty sure I will figure it all out, just taking longer than I thought it would.

currently only codes are:
leak detection pump (need to hook up the 2 wires for that),
airbag improper crash signal (apparently there is a wire I can hook up for that one also)
abs code which is expected
ecu coded improper which is expected.

The good news is that none of these codes cause the check engine light to come on, pretty sure I can get rid of the airbag and leak detection codes, the abs will be left for another time as it will be a pain.
cluster wise I just need to get the oil temp and level working, solve why my oil temp moves with the tps.
oh and I need to get the car running right on the maf, I am hoping I just need to disconnect the front o2's until my exhaust is made.

b7_Andy
11-02-2016, 01:22 PM
Man it seems like the wiring is a real pain in the ass! If you could have gone back would you have gotten a jumper harness to just plug and play? I have high hopes that you'll figure it out though! Also I have a spare 2.7 sitting in my garage that's not going to be touched for a while so if you want to borrow a throttle or oil level or temp sensor let me know... I'd be happy to let you use some parts to narrow down the problems. I know the engine was running 100% before it was parted out so the parts should be good. Also I was reading through Ukurish's B7 2.7 swap thread and he was able to use his ABS and code it to work with the ECU (his car was a 2007). I know a lot of guys have been saying that you need to swap to an older module, but I know he kept his B7 ABS. So hopefully you should be able to code it to work. I've also heard of the problem where the car shuts off when the engine warms up with quite a few of these swaps. I can't remember what the fix was, but have you considered supporting the trans, dropping the trans crossmember, installing full downpipes and letting it warm up like that to see if it stays on?


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Ali SC3
11-02-2016, 03:22 PM
I also forgot to add that the brake lights are on, even though I thought I wired those up correctly also.

yeah If I could go back I would consider getting the jumper harness, its a bit late for that now... but that is not to say the jumper harness wouldn't have had issues either who really knows how plug and play or not it would have been.
I think it might be worth a shot unless you just really want to do it, I thought I would be trying to complete it much sooner than I am at now, so I opted to wire it myself cause getting a jumper was at least a month out, in hindsight that would have probably gotten me up and running faster... at this point I would probably need a fresh 2.7t engine harness, and install that, and then hope a jumper works so I am pretty much committed to at least trying to figure it out at this point.

Thanks for the offer but I already ordered the new oil level/temp sensor, should be here in a few days. that is not a huge concern for me at the moment though that is more of a going to annoy me while I drive sort of thing, however, the oil temp moving with the tps does kind freak me out a little lol. I'll let you know if I need to try any other parts.

I pulled the connectors for the front o2 sensors earlier, will test it out again this evening. my battery needed to be charged up so I couldn't test it right away. I think that should do it though but we shall see.
I also found my maf connector is cracked badly, so I ordered a new one of those with the oil level unit, both of those will go on the car this week.

That is great news on the ABS, I would love to not have to swap out the abs unit for the older unit. I remember one person discussing coding it but I thought that was with a BEL motor/ecu, not a APB that I have... although my ecu has been coded to a m box ecu now I think.

I already cut my downpipes in half so I could extend them later, so unless I bolt up the stockers I probably wont be testing it that way. I do have to have an exhaust at some point so if that is really it then I will just get the exhaust done and try again. Pulling the o2 sensors should have a similar effect, if it can't read the extra air it should run off the maf just with no correction... at least thats how it works on toyota's. will see when I start it later hopefully I should be getting maf reading and no o2 correction reading.

b7_Andy
11-02-2016, 04:17 PM
Sounds like a good plan! Also what is an M box? I hear a lot of B5 guys making big numbers using an M box but I'm still not sure what it is. Is it some kind of stand alone management system?


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jbain2
11-02-2016, 04:31 PM
Sounds like a good plan! Also what is an M box? I hear a lot of B5 guys making big numbers using an M box but I'm still not sure what it is. Is it some kind of stand alone management system?


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The ECU's for the B5 were given letter names as well. Still a Bosch ECU.

http://s4wiki.com/wiki/Generations


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b7_Andy
11-02-2016, 04:50 PM
The ECU's for the B5 were given letter names as well. Still a Bosch ECU.

http://s4wiki.com/wiki/Generations


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Ah it's just a version of the ECU... Derp #deletingmyaccount
So is the m-box preferred when doing a high power build so you can run a hitachi MAF?

jbain2
11-02-2016, 07:17 PM
Ah it's just a version of the ECU... Derp #deletingmyaccount
So is the m-box preferred when doing a high power build so you can run a hitachi MAF?
The ecu can be configured/coded however. As far as the maf sensor goes, most folks use the Hitachi for stage 3 builds but its totally dependent on the tuner regarding housing and sensor.

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b7_Andy
11-02-2016, 07:21 PM
The ecu can be configured/coded however. As far as the maf sensor goes, most folks use the Hitachi for stage 3 builds but its totally dependent on the tuner regarding housing and sensor.

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So why does it seem like most people prefer an m-box ECU?

jbain2
11-02-2016, 07:24 PM
So why does it seem like most people prefer an m-box ECU?
It's already coded for the Hitachi maf, 6 mt and ESP.

So why does it seem like most people prefer an m-box ECU?


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b7_Andy
11-02-2016, 07:25 PM
It's already coded for the Hitachi maf, 6 mt and ESP.



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Ah okay, thanks for explaining that brother [emoji106]

Ali SC3
11-04-2016, 08:38 AM
Yeah it just seems to be a popular one the tuners code it to when dealing with the 2.7t. I thought I had a bosch sensor but apparently I have a Hitachi sensor.

I disconnected the 02's and cleaned out the maf, it seemed to run slightly better but something is still off, revs weird and wants to stall out at time, idle is lumpy too.
starting to think I have a bad maf, so I will be doing a swap with a known good one to see what happens. if it still doesn't work right then I have a wiring or tune issue.

Ali SC3
11-07-2016, 10:39 AM
So I am pretty sure the maf is fine, so its likely something to do with my wiring that is disrupting the maf... guessing it has to do something with whatever is making the oil temp sensor read funny when throttle is pressed.

I think I will start with rechecking all the wires one at a time and see if I can find out what is causing this issue.
Might have to break down and get a jumper harness if I can't figure this out soon.

Ephry73
11-08-2016, 04:27 PM
So I am pretty sure the maf is fine, so its likely something to do with my wiring that is disrupting the maf... guessing it has to do something with whatever is making the oil temp sensor read funny when throttle is pressed.

I think I will start with rechecking all the wires one at a time and see if I can find out what is causing this issue.
Might have to break down and get a jumper harness if I can't figure this out soon.

Check the pin-out. The maf unless really abused.


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Ali SC3
11-08-2016, 05:28 PM
Yeah I have started going through it while I explore other harness options. I am pretty sure its a wire that is wrong on the white plug, or worst case the ecu itself.
The brown and red plugs don't seem to be part of the problem.

The maf uses 12V and 5V, and the throttle uses 5V, and those sensors for the warning lights use 5V I want to say, so I am logically deducing something on the 5v circuit is wrong which is provided by the ecu.
Probably once I figure that out all of those things will start behaving properly again. hopefully the 5v driver on the ecu is fine.
I left my multi-meter at my folks place, so I will have to go and get that before I can do some further testing but I am starting to feel like I am getting close to figuring it out.

jbain2
11-09-2016, 02:38 PM
For a couple hundred bucks the harness is worth the headache.


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Ephry73
11-09-2016, 03:23 PM
Yeah I have started going through it while I explore other harness options. I am pretty sure its a wire that is wrong on the white plug, or worst case the ecu itself.
The brown and red plugs don't seem to be part of the problem.

The maf uses 12V and 5V, and the throttle uses 5V, and those sensors for the warning lights use 5V I want to say, so I am logically deducing something on the 5v circuit is wrong which is provided by the ecu.
Probably once I figure that out all of those things will start behaving properly again. hopefully the 5v driver on the ecu is fine.
I left my multi-meter at my folks place, so I will have to go and get that before I can do some further testing but I am starting to feel like I am getting close to figuring it out.

Maybe Clint can help with the po outs and cabling.


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Ali SC3
11-10-2016, 08:52 AM
Yeah I think I narrowed it down to a possible ground issue so I will test that out cause even if I get a harness made it would be grounded the same way and I dont want to go through all that just to find the new one does the same thing cause it was a ground. really I went over almost all the wiring, there is not that many wires going into the body plugs and I feel like the important ones are right, I removed all the non important ones to eliminate them as source of the issues... so I am starting to think I just missed something.

If I can't figure it out this weekend then I will be ordering the jumper harness from Clint as he got back to me and said the one he has done for a B7 worked.
I will have to put a fresh 2.7t harness on the motor, order another b7 harness for him to use for the jumper harness, send the b7 harness and then wait till it comes back.

So after this weekend I will either have it worked out, or give in and start changing the 2.7t harness out while I send the stuff off for the jumper harness.

blitz2190
11-18-2016, 12:26 PM
Nice to see so many 2.7 swaps now, If you haven't found it yet my wiring chart in my sig may help, I haven't dug into the ecu side to much on the b7 but I know that the abs part is correct as I helped another member get is working using it.

Ali SC3
11-18-2016, 01:14 PM
Thanks I have come across your thread before it is very helpful but a little different for my setup to the body plugs, but I am fairly certain now the issue isn't on the body plug side after testing and eliminating most of the wires.

I tested the maf and it is getting a solid 12v and 5v so that checks out, I tested the accelerator pedal the way I had the body plugs wired and am getting 5v across the correct wires so that is likely right.
when I unplug all the body plugs I can still hear this weird electrical noise from the throttle body (my brothers b6 swapped 2.7t doesn't make the same noise as loud), basically sounds like a small short, and the cluster doesn't act funny with the oil temp reading.
when I unplug the throttle body it obviously goes away but I still see some kind of issue with the oil temp on the cluster with the body plugs in, and thats with both oil temp/level wires unplugged.

So I originally thought the issue was on the body plugs I had wired, but now I am thinking that is not the case, I think its coming from something on the main harness itself.
I don't remember the main engine harness plugging into too many places that would do something like that, but I plan to go through the connections and see what I can come up with.

starting to think if its not some weird wiring issue, maybe the throttle body could be bad... (I dont think its the cluster but I also dont think it is the throttle body cause it does still work for the most part).
really was expecting to find some voltages off somewhere, I have a feeling it is something on the 5v sensor circuit.

I have put it on the back burner, I test a couple more things each time I work on it but its been crappy cause not really getting anywhere. Im sure once I find it I will have an "aha" moment.

also been eyeing the hood latch switch to tell if hood is closed, there doesn't seem to be a polarity on it when I wired it, but I may undo my connections and try it again.
basically going to strip all unnecessary connections one at a time till i find the issue, unfortunately I think that means I will have to dissasemble the front end again, [headbang]

Did you do anything special with your sensor ground? it doesn't seem to make any difference if I have that wire plugged into the body plug or not.
I tried connecting it and running an extra ground wire to it but literally no change at all which seems odd, why would it go into the body plug if it wasn't needed you know.

Ali SC3
11-18-2016, 01:25 PM
I was also reading about this throttle body alignment thing, could that be the cause of my issues? something so simple.
my throttle position values do read a little funny but are within spec, have never aligned it and have a new ecu and a chassis it never came in so I guess it makes sense.
http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/Throttle_Body_Alignment_(TBA)

I have a vag com so I will give it a try and see how it goes I guess.

blitz2190
11-18-2016, 01:59 PM
Thanks I have come across your thread before it is very helpful but a little different for my setup to the body plugs, but I am fairly certain now the issue isn't on the body plug side after testing and eliminating most of the wires.

I tested the maf and it is getting a solid 12v and 5v so that checks out, I tested the accelerator pedal the way I had the body plugs wired and am getting 5v across the correct wires so that is likely right.
when I unplug all the body plugs I can still hear this weird electrical noise from the throttle body (my brothers b6 swapped 2.7t doesn't make the same noise as loud), basically sounds like a small short, and the cluster doesn't act funny with the oil temp reading.
when I unplug the throttle body it obviously goes away but I still see some kind of issue with the oil temp on the cluster with the body plugs in, and thats with both oil temp/level wires unplugged.

So I originally thought the issue was on the body plugs I had wired, but now I am thinking that is not the case, I think its coming from something on the main harness itself.
I don't remember the main engine harness plugging into too many places that would do something like that, but I plan to go through the connections and see what I can come up with.

starting to think if its not some weird wiring issue, maybe the throttle body could be bad... (I dont think its the cluster but I also dont think it is the throttle body cause it does still work for the most part).
really was expecting to find some voltages off somewhere, I have a feeling it is something on the 5v sensor circuit.

I have put it on the back burner, I test a couple more things each time I work on it but its been crappy cause not really getting anywhere. Im sure once I find it I will have an "aha" moment.

also been eyeing the hood latch switch to tell if hood is closed, there doesn't seem to be a polarity on it when I wired it, but I may undo my connections and try it again.
basically going to strip all unnecessary connections one at a time till i find the issue, unfortunately I think that means I will have to dissasemble the front end again, [headbang]

Did you do anything special with your sensor ground? it doesn't seem to make any difference if I have that wire plugged into the body plug or not.
I tried connecting it and running an extra ground wire to it but literally no change at all which seems odd, why would it go into the body plug if it wasn't needed you know.

the way I have it wired in my thread should be the right way, I'll have to dig into the b7 diagrams but keep in mind my charts are not a direct cut an splice, I wired it so that it got the correct amperage. What I mean is the injectors and ecu power were seperated and wired according to how they would have been in the b6 see note 1 in my thread. But I'm betting its not to far off in the b7 chassis again before I look but the chassis share a lot of similarities with the b6. I let you know if i get time to dig into the diagrams as I haven't re-install elsawin yet. as for the grounds I cut the two on the b5 harness and extended them to reack the ground point on the firewall.

Ali SC3
11-21-2016, 03:20 PM
So I did some more searching on the net and found where someone had similar weird throttle value readings, and for them it turned out to be a faulty ecu.
I had this ecu sent out and flashed etc.. but there was a new chip soldered on it because it had a tune on it previously.
I am starting to suspect the ecu might have just been bad in the first place.. really hope its that simple, the car it came from had no hood on it at the time, so I guess there is a chance it got wet at some point.

later today I am swapping the ecu into my brothers car to see if it acts funny in the same way or if it is working, that should narrow it down some.
if its bad I will know that my harness and throttle body are probably good and its just the ecu.. but if its good then I will start to eliminate the other things on the list.

Ali SC3
11-23-2016, 11:27 AM
So the ecu checks out just fine swapped another one in mostly doing the same thing.

figured out if I pull one of the Can wires (orange/black one) the oil temp stops fluctuating with the pedal, but then I loose all the tach and speedo on the cluster etc...

so that makes me think I have an issue with the wiring in the engine harness maybe its shorted somewhere which would explain the throttle body electrical noises I am hearing.
I guess there could be an issue with the cluster but I am not sure how often that really happens, I am thinking its a symptom of something else going on.
My brother has a spare engine harness, I know it will be a bit of a pain to install with the engine in the car but starting to consider that my harness has a short somewhere that is causing all of this cause really it should be working by now.

I am also going to do a boost leak test to rule that out, but even if that there was one and I fixed it and it ran fine.. there is still something going on with the cluster lights etc...
I really like this car and want to drive it, but this is frustrating to say the least with the electrical bit.

Ali SC3
11-23-2016, 03:38 PM
OK so scratch that, I got the car running perfect now and will try and finish it up for personal enjoyment =)
I found a blown intercooler hose that must have come off on one of the test runs I did before I got the maf powered up.
The engine harness actually seems to be in good shape.

So now it looks like I just have cluster issues with reading the sensors and also a brake light signal issue.
with how well the car drives I want to say the throttle body is probably fine, so not sure the noise I hear is even a problem might be normal.

anywho, I am starting to think I got the wrong pin on the b7 body plug for sensor ground, going to look over the diagrams again because that could explain why I have random cluster sensor issues even when it seems I plug up the wires right. its either got to be something like that or the rs4 cluster is whacky, but I am going to guess its a wiring issue still.

at least I can prolly get the readiness done now as i just have cluster lights but they are not emissions related so they shouldn't care about that.
So I need to get the exhaust made up with the cats, take it in for testing and then if I still haven't figured out the cluster issues I will sort that out last.

I did get to take it for a spin with the maf working and hit 5 psi (didn't want to blow the hose off again) and it pulled fast and strong, I can't wait to get it fully working.
Making progress [wrench]

Ali SC3
11-24-2016, 08:27 PM
video. running pretty good with open downpipes


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ikp6ztgMqUg

Ephry73
11-25-2016, 04:17 PM
video. running pretty good with open downpipes


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ikp6ztgMqUg

Looking good. Any idea what you're going to run for exhaust yet? I say go for the 3" all the way to 2.5" straight through magnaflows with a pair of 3" highflow cars and X pipe. Simple and will sound amazing


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b7_Andy
11-25-2016, 04:53 PM
Yaaaaaaay!


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Julian Aksnes
11-26-2016, 09:24 AM
Like crickets in here... Alright, got some more work done. got the 3.2 core support and radiator in.

Started swapping over everything from the 2.0t core support to the 3.2.
Turns out the 2.0t fans line up with all but the bottom 2 mounting holes on the 3.2 core support, I think its because the snub mount is in a different spot now.
So what I did was drill through and use a nut and bolt to fasten the bottom 2 bolts = problem solved. I should be able to fit the snub mount bracket still also.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-NMntT4_jmGA/V5JABhPj1eI/AAAAAAABdIA/s0-G8Htm1O035OHkzB-7n3qFnOD-xk7ewCCo/s800/IMG_6444.JPG

looking good
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-LE5pBM2eQtE/V5JABkgw7JI/AAAAAAABdH8/G1Ra6xw5pEUrSfiVJjK-qT862jCnMYBnACCo/s800/IMG_6445.JPG

transferred over hood ltach and also some other little things mounted to the core support, also moved over the crash things but forgot to take a pic.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-JY_ZMzAqOKs/V5JABuyH5MI/AAAAAAABdIE/bVgbU2WD0p8ZkIUb3P3ToGEEVz3PjbtdACCo/s800/IMG_6446.JPG

So in short a small modification to bolt on the lower 2 bolts for the fan and all you need is the core support itself, you can reuse all the 2.0t stuff on it, which is nice cause it will save some coin as the core support shipped was under $100. its aftermarket but an oem type replacement, will see how it goes. Also the 3.0/3.2l radiator lines up perfectly with the 2.7t and should bolt right up also.

Hey man!
Awesome build.
Im having problems with the lower core support myself (B7 2.0 TDI)
Can you confirm that all I need is the 3.2 core support (this one is a one-piece?) to make things fit perfectly?
Thanks!

themadscientist
11-26-2016, 03:23 PM
Great job man.

Ali SC3
11-26-2016, 11:34 PM
Looking good. Any idea what you're going to run for exhaust yet? I say go for the 3" all the way to 2.5" straight through magnaflows with a pair of 3" highflow cars and X pipe. Simple and will sound amazing

I decided on going full dual 3" with some 3" high flow cats on each pipe. I haven't chosen a muffler but I will be taking a look at some.
I was thinking of just running the dual 3" out the back and cut the tip without a muffler also,.
I don't think I will use a crossover, don't the s4's run each one individual? Its simpler without it that is for sure.


Yaaaaaaay!


That us pretty much how I felt too lol, at least some progress.


Hey man!
Awesome build.
Im having problems with the lower core support myself (B7 2.0 TDI)
Can you confirm that all I need is the 3.2 core support (this one is a one-piece?) to make things fit perfectly?
Thanks!

It is what you need but not everything will fit perfectly. I had to modify the 2.0t fans to fit, used the 3.2l radiator and had to shave off the lower radiator hose tab to allow the coolant pipe to go on at the proper angle. Ideally 3.2l fans would be nice if you are getting the parts at a yard and can get a group deal, but i made the 2.0t ones work.

honestly I wouldn't worry that much about the cooling difference between 2.0t and 3.2l fans because I ran the 2.7t up to temp and it wouldn't even get hot enough to activate the fans at idle.
For some reason this motor runs pretty cool, maybe its a good design or something. I think you could get away with just using 1 of the 2 fans even most of the time.


Great job man.

Thanks, its been a journey but finally getting there. with any luck will be driving it around next soon.

Julian Aksnes
11-28-2016, 02:36 AM
It is what you need but not everything will fit perfectly. I had to modify the 2.0t fans to fit, used the 3.2l radiator and had to shave off the lower radiator hose tab to allow the coolant pipe to go on at the proper angle. Ideally 3.2l fans would be nice if you are getting the parts at a yard and can get a group deal, but i made the 2.0t ones work.

honestly I wouldn't worry that much about the cooling difference between 2.0t and 3.2l fans because I ran the 2.7t up to temp and it wouldn't even get hot enough to activate the fans at idle.
For some reason this motor runs pretty cool, maybe its a good design or something. I think you could get away with just using 1 of the 2 fans even most of the time.

As long as the lower core support fits the 2.7 biturbo snubmount im good :)

Ephry73
11-28-2016, 06:27 AM
I decided on going full dual 3" with some 3" high flow cats on each pipe. I haven't chosen a muffler but I will be taking a look at some.
I was thinking of just running the dual 3" out the back and cut the tip without a muffler also,.
I don't think I will use a crossover, don't the s4's run each one individual? Its simpler without it that is for sure.


Thanks, its been a journey but finally getting there. with any luck will be driving it around next soon.

Straight pipe will be too loud but ultimately it's what the driver enjoys. I have heard good points on running the true crossover pipes, specially if you do plan to go muffler less. The magnaflow 3" straight through ovals are pretty nice and mellow and will definitely make things more bearable for the neighbors but still keep a nice aggressive sound.

Looking forward to more updates and for you to log some safe highway miles.

Welcome to the club for sure [emoji56]



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Ali SC3
11-28-2016, 11:57 AM
As long as the lower core support fits the 2.7 biturbo snubmount im good :)

It doesn't fit, go back a couple pages, you need the v6 3.0 engine side snub mount bracket (not the 2.7t one), and then I hacked up a v8 core support side snub mount to fit the 2.0t core support and used a poly snub mount.
I don't think I posted pics of the final version, but I basically slotted all 4 holes out on the v8 mount (some extreme slotting), and with some large washers bolted it onto the 2.0t support.
its not a perfect bolt on solution, but once modified the v8 bracket can work and is super tight. there are probably other ways but that is how I tackled it.

They apparently do not make an aftermarket snub mount bracket for the b7 v6 core support. So I opted to hack up the v8 one cause I wanted the poly setup, but if you could find a stock one it may work.. but then again the 3.2 is different than the 3.0 block. welcome to the pains of swapping a 2.7t into a b6/b7.


Straight pipe will be too loud but ultimately it's what the driver enjoys. I have heard good points on running the true crossover pipes, specially if you do plan to go muffler less. The magnaflow 3" straight through ovals are pretty nice and mellow and will definitely make things more bearable for the neighbors but still keep a nice aggressive sound.

Looking forward to more updates and for you to log some safe highway miles.

Welcome to the club for sure [emoji56]


Not much is louder than my corvette with sidepipes lol. I think it sounds pretty good even with open downpipes, but I decided to get some dual mufflers for the rear to tidy up the look.
I think between the cat's, piping, and the rear mufflers it should be ok for every day use, I like loud exhausts and if my passengers don't like it there is an easy solution for that, its called gtfo of the car [:D]

Yeah I am pretty set on not using a crossover, will see how it goes after I get some miles in for sure. Thanks I am happy to finally be in the club of having a running audi [drive]

blitz2190
11-28-2016, 12:06 PM
OK so scratch that, I got the car running perfect now and will try and finish it up for personal enjoyment =)
I found a blown intercooler hose that must have come off on one of the test runs I did before I got the maf powered up.
The engine harness actually seems to be in good shape.

So now it looks like I just have cluster issues with reading the sensors and also a brake light signal issue.
with how well the car drives I want to say the throttle body is probably fine, so not sure the noise I hear is even a problem might be normal.

anywho, I am starting to think I got the wrong pin on the b7 body plug for sensor ground, going to look over the diagrams again because that could explain why I have random cluster sensor issues even when it seems I plug up the wires right. its either got to be something like that or the rs4 cluster is whacky, but I am going to guess its a wiring issue still.

at least I can prolly get the readiness done now as i just have cluster lights but they are not emissions related so they shouldn't care about that.
So I need to get the exhaust made up with the cats, take it in for testing and then if I still haven't figured out the cluster issues I will sort that out last.

I did get to take it for a spin with the maf working and hit 5 psi (didn't want to blow the hose off again) and it pulled fast and strong, I can't wait to get it fully working.
Making progress [wrench]

I updated my wiring chart today with what it should be for the b7 wired as close to oem as possible so the ecu has control to turn off components in case of a problem.

Ali SC3
11-28-2016, 03:54 PM
That is awesome, thanks man I will be sure to go back through it here soon. Will double check I have the right wires, this should help alot. I actually undid some of my wiring when I was having maf issues so hopefully now I can sort it out.

need to get the evap wires working then I will start with all the cluster lights, I think I am still getting oil level, temp and pressure.. also the brake light signal from ecu.

blitz2190
11-28-2016, 04:03 PM
brake light signal will need to be tapped at the A-pillar as the signal is the same to the cluster/abs but seems to be provided to the ecu over canbus, check the notes in the chart for the right one to tie into, also the b7 seems to still have analog oil and coolant signals so that should be easy. Make sure to read the notes, you need to add a fuse and relay for the injectors to be done right as the b7 powers and controls the injectors through the ecu where the b6 had a dedicated fused connection like the b5 s4.

Ali SC3
11-28-2016, 05:33 PM
That is very interesting on the injector powering, I might be doing something wrong here that is related to the oil sensor in your notes part


find where pin 3 ties into the injectors in the engine harness (near the ecu box rubber boot) and cut it, pin 3 then goes to t17e WHITE Pin17 along with the Oil Level Thermal Sensor wire(fused power for sensors) then you will need to add an inline 20amp fuse powered by a relay that is triggered from the ecu, using the same line that trigger the fuel pump module T17j BROWN Pin12 red/violet. Supply the relay with an appropriate gauge wire attached to post 30 power supply. the reason for this is the ecu can now work correctly and cut power to the injectors in case of a problem.

The B7 will also need a switched supply to t17j Brown Pin1 red/grey, I recommend at least an 18 gauge wire supplied from post 30 through a relay triggered from t17e WHITE Pin17 for a total of 3 wires needing to be connected to this pin

My blue/black injector (thick gauge) wire is currently going to Red pin 15, which you are saying should be green/yellow.
Right now from the 2.7t harness I have the green/yellow (thick gauge) and the green/red (thick gauge), and also a small red wire forgot what that one was for going straight to +12V battery.

So I guess Red pin 15 is some type of switched 12v, as currently my engine does run which means it is powering the injectors, but you saying wire in a separate relay for the black/blue wire so the 2.7t ecu can shut off the injectors, and then use that switched 12V on Red pin 15 for the green/yellow wire I think.

That does make sense but in the end they all get 12v, just one way it can turn it on and off the injectors but right now at least it can still shut off the fuel pump. I will swap it around to your way though makes sense.

What is interesting is you way the power needs to go to the oil level thermal sensor on White pin 17?
I have the thick black/red wire from the 2.7 harness in that spot, the color matches up with your post but I am not currently supplying 12v to it.


So If I have this straight... wire in a new relay powered off the fuel pump signal wire (I am using that wire to turn on a separate fuel pump relay already), and send 12v from relay to pin 3 (I am assuming its the blue/black wire on 2.7 harness) and also send 12v from relay to the black/red oil sensor wire (white pin17). then use the red pin 15 for the green/yellow, and looks like red pin 17 for green/red?

Also confused on the brown pin1 red/gray also being tied into white pin17, so you are just saying the relay above should also be connected to this pin, so 3 things connected to the switched 12v off the relay (or pin17 depending on how you word it)?

sorry for the simple questions but I am confused with all the wiring at this point especially the darn oil sensors... is that my issue is the black/red wire supposed to be power to the oil sensors?

If that is the case I can swap all the 12v wiring around as you say which shouldn't really change how it runs or acts right now, but should make it wired correct.
Running power to the oil sensor should help with all 3 of my oil light problems I figure, and something with brown pin1

blitz2190
11-28-2016, 05:50 PM
the reason for the wire going to the white pin 17 is that is a fused switched 12v that the ecu needs, in the 2.7 this was a 20amp connection but also powered the injectors as well, in the b6/b7 they had the injectors powered seperately from the ecu connection, this is why i recommend splitting the ecu pin 3 from the injectors so it works like oem in the b6/b7 and allowes you to put the fus that was removed from the b7 in to make a safe connection on the injectors.

T10ar(T10n) ORANGE Pin8 green/yellow goes to t17d RED Pin15 black/blue for the coil power supply, agian to get as close to oem as possible to allow the ecu to control power.

as for t17j Brown Pin1 red/grey this needs a heavy gauge connection to a switched power supply as it powers a few things such as sensors, normally in the b6/b7 this would have been the ecu power relay but is not present in the 2.7 harness so you use the t17e WHITE Pin17 to turn a relay on that supplies power to t17j Brown Pin1 red/grey

as for the last comment yes it will work the same but allow the ecu to cut power in case of a problem such as a crash.

some may need to be tweaked but this should get you going without codes and have everthing fused as to not cause a melted wire, in the case of a problem.

Ali SC3
11-28-2016, 09:34 PM
ok I get most of what you said now thanks so much I really appreciate it, was starting to loose any desire to work on it but now I think I can probably fix it based on what you said, I owe you one for sure.


find where pin 3 ties into the injectors in the engine harness (near the ecu box rubber boot) and cut it, pin 3 then goes to t17e WHITE Pin17 along with the Oil Level Thermal Sensor wire(fused power for sensors) then you will need to add an inline 20amp fuse powered by a relay that is triggered from the ecu, using the same line that trigger the fuel pump module T17j BROWN Pin12 red/violet. Supply the relay with an appropriate gauge wire attached to post 30 power supply. the reason for this is the ecu can now work correctly and cut power to the injectors in case of a problem.


I'm still not 100% on how to wire it... what do you mean by inline do you mean fuse inline with the relay like normal, or do you mean the relay connects to pin 3 somehow ( not sure this even makes sense).

I am thinking what you mean is:
1) Separate ecu pin 3 wire from injector wire (guessing black/blue), connect remaining wire from pin 3 and the oil level wire to White pin17.
2) Separately have a fused relay triggered by fuel pump wire that connects to the disconnected injector wire (guessing black/blue).
3) Separately have another relay triggered by White pin17 which goes to Brown pin1

Then wire up the rest of the small sensors.
If so I think that should be pretty easy to do.

So does ecu pin 3 provide 12v to white pin17 and the oil level wire? or is pin17 providing the power to the other 2. just not getting it for some reason.

Gonna also hunt for that green connector in the A-pillar, if this all works out I will be so freaking happy, thanks again for the insight on the audi system, it makes alot more sense to me now the differences between the 2 years. If you ever need help on toyota wiring let me know =)

blitz2190
11-29-2016, 06:11 AM
you have it correct as to your 3 steps above, white pin17 provides power that is switched through the ignition and a 10amp fuse under the dash. and no problem always fun to figure out a new challenge
and just to clarify that that last step, the relay should be triggered by Pin17, then a wire from the post 30 goes to one side and supplies the power to Brown Pin1 on the other.

also don't forget this one, its the constant power to the ecu for memory.

12v+ post 30(nut in plenum chamber) to ecu pin 62 red (T10m BLACK pin4 red on 2.7T plug)I RECOMMEND A 5AMP FUSE INLINE

Ali SC3
11-29-2016, 08:31 AM
awesome, I am excited to get it all wired up now. going to start tonight. with any luck I can get all my warning lights to go away.

blitz2190
11-29-2016, 09:07 AM
awesome, I am excited to get it all wired up now. going to start tonight. with any luck I can get all my warning lights to go away.

heres hoping, also i fixed my thread to make it clearer for anyone in the future, add some simple relay diagrams

Ali SC3
11-29-2016, 09:51 AM
Awesome, those clear it right up. gonna break out the soldering iron tonight.

Still I am wondering if white pin17 provides power then why wasn't the oil sensor working since I did have the black/red wire going to that pin.

only thing I can think of is that I was definately missing 12V to Brown Pin1 red/grey, so hopefully that will cure it up once I wire it like yours is... or I have a cluster issue. will find out shortly.

blitz2190
11-29-2016, 09:57 AM
Awesome, those clear it right up. gonna break out the soldering iron tonight.

Still I am wondering if white pin17 provides power then why wasn't the oil sensor working since I did have the black/red wire going to that pin.

only thing I can think of is that I was definately missing 12V to Brown Pin1 red/grey, so hopefully that will cure it up once I wire it like yours is... or I have a cluster issue. will find out shortly.

Did you have the other side connected as well? there are two pins for the oil sensor. T17e WHITE Pin9 red/grey being the one that acutally connects to the dash, Pin 17 is just a switched power supply.

Ali SC3
11-29-2016, 01:22 PM
Yeah I did have the other side connected which is the weird part... unless I got the wrong red/gray wire somehow but I think I got it right. I will probe the pins at the sensor and make sure its getting 12v and a good ground.
Maybe for some reason the 12v is not coming through on the vehicle side on that pin, will give it a test later.
There is also the possibility that the oil level thermal sensor has gone bad, I have a replacement that I ordered so if its still throwing codes that will be the next step.

last step after doing all the wiring the updated way will be checking out the cluster, it is an unknown cluster to me that I had reprogrammed for this car, so maybe there is an issue with it I am not aware of.
everything else seems to work fine on it except I still have that odd issue of the oil temp going up on the cluster when the throttle is pressed.
I will call the guy who works on the clusters and see what he says, he seems to know them in and out.

Ali SC3
11-29-2016, 01:47 PM
So I just talked to Tom who did my cluster, he says they don't really fail like that if it was bad the screen would have went out or things not working completely.

what he did tell me is very interesting, he said when he put a b7 rs4 cluster in a b6, the oil level thermal sensor was giving him issues and it was the only warning flag...
So he is thinking that since I am having a similar issue with just the oil level thermal sensor, that they might have changed the sensor on the b7 RS4 specifically to be a little different like resistance or signal wise.
I didn't think this was the case but maybe there is something more to it as I do see the oil level sensor for the RS4 only includes a few models like B7 A4, and does not include the B7 S4 or earlier b5/b6 models.
Or it could be possible I just have a bad sensor but there might be something to this whole thing.

If that is the case he said that the cluster couldn't be reprogrammed to accept a different signal (if it is in fact different), but I could use the newer b7 rs4 sensor possibly (with some adaptation unless its the same physical shape).
very interesting to say the least so if the oil level thermal sensor continues to have issues, I will look into trying a b7 unit, but I am still not convinced they are different.. and no one else has mentioned this issue.

he also said someone swapped to a b6 cluster in a b7 to get rid of the fuel cap warning on the cluster (which I also get), but said that person was having coolant level warning issues... which doesn't make sense.
I think all of us have different wiring issues going on possibly, or bad sensors. I am personally not swapping to a b6 cluster, I will be finding a way to fake the fuel cap warning signal later, its probably a pulsewidth signal and once someone figures it out it shouldn't be that difficult to trick. I will leave that as one of the last things to do with ABS, but the rest of the stuff I want working asap.

I can also live with the oil level thermal lights for now, but will get to the bottom of it.

Thanks again for all your help, I feel much better about tackling the last few problems now...
really I only need to get the evap vent wires connected and the brake lights solved so I can get it through inspection, the other warning lights they wont care about.

also are you sure you need to go to the A-pillar for the brake light switch? isn't it on the body plug somewhere?
and the rest of my pins are matching up except for the brake vacuum vent valve, I have it on a different pin on the Red plug. I am going to try your pin12 out instead and see how that goes. [wrench]

b7_Andy
11-29-2016, 02:02 PM
Which sensor measures oil temp? Is it the level sender in the oil pan?


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jbain2
11-29-2016, 03:08 PM
So I just talked to Tom who did my cluster, he says they don't really fail like that if it was bad the screen would have went out or things not working completely.

what he did tell me is very interesting, he said when he put a b7 rs4 cluster in a b6, the oil level thermal sensor was giving him issues and it was the only warning flag...
So he is thinking that since I am having a similar issue with just the oil level thermal sensor, that they might have changed the sensor on the b7 RS4 specifically to be a little different like resistance or signal wise.
I didn't think this was the case but maybe there is something more to it as I do see the oil level sensor for the RS4 only includes a few models like B7 A4, and does not include the B7 S4 or earlier b5/b6 models.
Or it could be possible I just have a bad sensor but there might be something to this whole thing.

If that is the case he said that the cluster couldn't be reprogrammed to accept a different signal (if it is in fact different), but I could use the newer b7 rs4 sensor possibly (with some adaptation unless its the same physical shape).
very interesting to say the least so if the oil level thermal sensor continues to have issues, I will look into trying a b7 unit, but I am still not convinced they are different.. and no one else has mentioned this issue.

he also said someone swapped to a b6 cluster in a b7 to get rid of the fuel cap warning on the cluster (which I also get), but said that person was having coolant level warning issues... which doesn't make sense.
I think all of us have different wiring issues going on possibly, or bad sensors. I am personally not swapping to a b6 cluster, I will be finding a way to fake the fuel cap warning signal later, its probably a pulsewidth signal and once someone figures it out it shouldn't be that difficult to trick. I will leave that as one of the last things to do with ABS, but the rest of the stuff I want working asap.

I can also live with the oil level thermal lights for now, but will get to the bottom of it.

Thanks again for all your help, I feel much better about tackling the last few problems now...
really I only need to get the evap vent wires connected and the brake lights solved so I can get it through inspection, the other warning lights they wont care about.

also are you sure you need to go to the A-pillar for the brake light switch? isn't it on the body plug somewhere?
and the rest of my pins are matching up except for the brake vacuum vent valve, I have it on a different pin on the Red plug. I am going to try your pin12 out instead and see how that goes. [wrench]

The cluster swap was me. It fixed the fuel cap warning but now the engine temp gauge doesn't work. It works with the B7 cluster. Still trying to figure out why this would be the case.


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blitz2190
11-29-2016, 03:25 PM
The cluster swap was me. It fixed the fuel cap warning but now the engine temp gauge doesn't work. It works with the B7 cluster. Still trying to figure out why this would be the case.


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are you sure the wire is correct T10m(T10p) BLACK Pin9 blue/brown to t17d RED Pin3 blue/brown, maybe the b6 cluster was using k-line or canbus if the signal was missing and the b7 cannot for some reason, just a thought no actual evidence this is the case.

as to the oil level, on the 2.7 there is actually 4 wires if i remember correctly 2 for temp 2 for level are you sure that the wire T10(T10o) BROWN Pin9 red/gray from the 2.7 harness is connected to the T17e WHITE Pin9 red/grey B7 plug, if it is then its either a bad sensor, or a different signal. As T17e WHITE Pin17 black/red will have power without the Brown Pin1 because it is supplied by the internal post 30 through the ignition to a 10amp fuse then out to the plugs. The only other thing that comes to mind is that 10amp fuse could be blown.

Ali SC3
11-29-2016, 09:04 PM
Which sensor measures oil temp? Is it the level sender in the oil pan?

Yes the level sensor also puts out oil temp.


The cluster swap was me. It fixed the fuel cap warning but now the engine temp gauge doesn't work. It works with the B7 cluster. Still trying to figure out why this would be the case.

That is pretty odd, I think its over can bus on the b7 cluster cause mine has been working fine along with the fuel gauge. did your oil level and temp work with both clusters?

did you do any work on the fuel door issue or just choose to swap instead, any info is much appreciated.


are you sure the wire is correct T10m(T10p) BLACK Pin9 blue/brown to t17d RED Pin3 blue/brown, maybe the b6 cluster was using k-line or canbus if the signal was missing and the b7 cannot for some reason, just a thought no actual evidence this is the case.

as to the oil level, on the 2.7 there is actually 4 wires if i remember correctly 2 for temp 2 for level are you sure that the wire T10(T10o) BROWN Pin9 red/gray from the 2.7 harness is connected to the T17e WHITE Pin9 red/grey B7 plug, if it is then its either a bad sensor, or a different signal. As T17e WHITE Pin17 black/red will have power without the Brown Pin1 because it is supplied by the internal post 30 through the ignition to a 10amp fuse then out to the plugs. The only other thing that comes to mind is that 10amp fuse could be blown.

I have moved the wires around a few times but I am pretty sure that is where I got it from on the 2.7t harness and it is a grey/red wire in the white pin9 spot.
the black/red thicker gauge is in the white pin17 spot. I need to grab my multimeter tomorrow to check if its getting power at the sensor.
I think chances are decent that the sensor itself is bad, maybe there is no wiring problem anymore which is why I ordered a new sensor.

But now I am wondering if I should order a rs4 oil level sensor and hope it fits. My current sensor appears to have 3 wires on it.
Jbain, did you have to do anything with the oil level sensor on yours?

Blitz I need to send you a bottle of scotch or something for helping me get the wiring straight [:D]

blitz2190
11-30-2016, 06:27 AM
Yes the level sensor also puts out oil temp.



That is pretty odd, I think its over can bus on the b7 cluster cause mine has been working fine along with the fuel gauge. did your oil level and temp work with both clusters?

did you do any work on the fuel door issue or just choose to swap instead, any info is much appreciated.



I have moved the wires around a few times but I am pretty sure that is where I got it from on the 2.7t harness and it is a grey/red wire in the white pin9 spot.
the black/red thicker gauge is in the white pin17 spot. I need to grab my multimeter tomorrow to check if its getting power at the sensor.
I think chances are decent that the sensor itself is bad, maybe there is no wiring problem anymore which is why I ordered a new sensor.

But now I am wondering if I should order a rs4 oil level sensor and hope it fits. My current sensor appears to have 3 wires on it.
Jbain, did you have to do anything with the oil level sensor on yours?

Blitz I need to send you a bottle of scotch or something for helping me get the wiring straight [:D]

haha np, so looking at the sensors, its seems that that physical shape is the same but the sensor itself on the 2.7 is the same for b5/c5/b6 then there is a split at the b7, the sensor being the same shape but fitment is for the b7 A4 and RS4, so you may be right about signal.

jbain2
11-30-2016, 06:51 AM
Yes the level sensor also puts out oil temp.



That is pretty odd, I think its over can bus on the b7 cluster cause mine has been working fine along with the fuel gauge. did your oil level and temp work with both clusters?

did you do any work on the fuel door issue or just choose to swap instead, any info is much appreciated.



I have moved the wires around a few times but I am pretty sure that is where I got it from on the 2.7t harness and it is a grey/red wire in the white pin9 spot.
the black/red thicker gauge is in the white pin17 spot. I need to grab my multimeter tomorrow to check if its getting power at the sensor.
I think chances are decent that the sensor itself is bad, maybe there is no wiring problem anymore which is why I ordered a new sensor.

But now I am wondering if I should order a rs4 oil level sensor and hope it fits. My current sensor appears to have 3 wires on it.
Jbain, did you have to do anything with the oil level sensor on yours?

Admittedly I didn't do the wiring. Using a jumper harness. The B7 cluster doesn't have an oil temp gauge like the B5 S4 clusters do so I am not sure what you are referring to regarding oil level. The oil level warning is coded out for now. This was done by the prior owner. As far as the fuel cap issue is concerned, my understanding is that it's based on some kind of magnetic trigger in the filler neck that sends a signal to the cluster. I believe this is different from the B6. Haven't tried anything specific but was thinking about how to fool the wiring to close the circuit.


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blitz2190
11-30-2016, 07:27 AM
Admittedly I didn't do the wiring. Using a jumper harness. The B7 cluster doesn't have an oil temp gauge like the B5 S4 clusters do so I am not sure what you are referring to regarding oil level. The oil level warning is coded out for now. This was done by the prior owner. As far as the fuel cap issue is concerned, my understanding is that it's based on some kind of magnetic trigger in the filler neck that sends a signal to the cluster. I believe this is different from the B6. Haven't tried anything specific but was thinking about how to fool the wiring to close the circuit.


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are you sure its the cap, whats it look like? if you see a picture of a gas pump next to the picture of the car its most likely your fuel door, there is a button in there that tells when its open or closed like the doors in the car, the problem is this button gets corroded and doesn't work alot of the time, mine has been doing this for a year, if you replace it or better yet just remove it completely and put a jumper wire in the plug, it should fix it.

jbain2
11-30-2016, 07:43 AM
are you sure its the cap, whats it look like? if you see a picture of a gas pump next to the picture of the car its most likely your fuel door, there is a button in there that tells when its open or closed like the doors in the car, the problem is this button gets corroded and doesn't work alot of the time, mine has been doing this for a year, if you replace it or better yet just remove it completely and put a jumper wire in the plug, it should fix it.

Here is a short video. The warning keeps flashing. Super distracting. Replaced the switch part around the filler neck. No corrosion anywhere. https://vimeo.com/193723581


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blitz2190
11-30-2016, 08:05 AM
Here is a short video. The warning keeps flashing. Super distracting. Replaced the switch part around the filler neck. No corrosion anywhere. https://vimeo.com/193723581


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do you have an evap code? do you have the leak detection pump hooked to vacuum and the wires hooked up correctly?

jbain2
11-30-2016, 08:16 AM
do you have an evap code? do you have the leak detection pump hooked to vacuum and the wires hooked up correctly?

No evap codes at all. Don't want to derail the OP thread. OP if this isn't relevant, I can take this offline.

Ali SC3
11-30-2016, 09:01 AM
Please continue all of this is relevant to b7 swapping, I have to deal with the fuel cap issue myself I just haven't gotten there yet so its good info for me also.
Mine doesn't flash that often cause I have the other warning lights, but I have seen it pop up every once in a while.

I thought it was for the fuel door... didn't think the cap would have a sensor but audi engineers have been throwing me for a loop lately so can't say for sure.
If it was a jumper that would be nice... I have a b7 cluster and b7 car so you think it wouldn't be an issue since its not engine related, but for some reason it seems to happen on these swaps.
maybe the b7 stock ecu was in the loop for this function somehow.

I think I will return my new oil level sensor I got and get one for the b7 rs4 and see if it will fit on there, that would be a simple fix fingers crossed [cool]

jbain2
11-30-2016, 09:16 AM
OP, I know your motor came from an A6. Did you delete the SAI system? Mine has been. Wondering if that could be contributing? I don't have any evap codes but the SAI is coded out in my ECU. Thinking more about it, there is no wiring going from the filler neck so even if it were magnetic in some way, I am not sure how the signal would occur.


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blitz2190
11-30-2016, 09:42 AM
OP, I know your motor came from an A6. Did you delete the SAI system? Mine has been. Wondering if that could be contributing? I don't have any evap codes but the SAI is coded out in my ECU. Thinking more about it, there is no wiring going from the filler neck so even if it were magnetic in some way, I am not sure how the signal would occur.


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do you have the n80 valve hooked up correctly, this has been shown to cause this issue, also there is a vacuum line that goes under/near the abs module that needs a check valve and vacuum pulling on it.
also mine cam from an A6, I just removed the plastic pin in the ecu plug that didn't allow me to install an S4 ECU and just put in a M-Box tune, no code out needed.

jbain2
11-30-2016, 09:51 AM
do you have the n80 valve hooked up correctly, this has been shown to cause this issue, also there is a vacuum line that goes under/near the abs module that needs a check valve and vacuum pulling on it.

The car was mostly sorted when I picked it up. A few lingering issues that I have been dealing with. I don't have any evidence of a vacuum leak (idle is smooth and right around -20) and my AFR's are pretty darn good. I will certainly look into the n80 (I am pretty sure it has been removed, though I can't recall off the top of my head) and vacuum line you mentioned, and rescan to see what I come up with.

blitz2190
11-30-2016, 10:07 AM
The car was mostly sorted when I picked it up. A few lingering issues that I have been dealing with. I don't have any evidence of a vacuum leak (idle is smooth and right around -20) and my AFR's are pretty darn good. I will certainly look into the n80 (I am pretty sure it has been removed, though I can't recall off the top of my head) and vacuum line you mentioned, and rescan to see what I come up with.

unless everything associated with the n80 has been coded out this is most likely your reason for the gas cap warning. There is no sensor that is in the cap that tells it if its on, its done based on vacuum. Which is why a bad seal on the gas cap will give the same error. even if its been coded out this would explain why your not getting a error code but still showing on the dash. The only thing I recommend having coded out is SAI(which would be easier to just swith to an M-box tune and is more widely supported for tunes) and the rear o2 Sensors.

Ali SC3
11-30-2016, 10:16 AM
OP, I know your motor came from an A6. Did you delete the SAI system? Mine has been. Wondering if that could be contributing? I don't have any evap codes but the SAI is coded out in my ECU. Thinking more about it, there is no wiring going from the filler neck so even if it were magnetic in some way, I am not sure how the signal would occur.

Yes I ripped off the SAI system and it is coded out, not having any issues with that really. Evap is just the 2 wires on the body plugs should be easy to get that working I just need to pin them in.
Yeah I haven't even started looking into the fuel cap issue, I just figured it had to have the stock ecu in the loop cause it wasn't there with the 2.0t and nothing else has changed on this car but ecu/engine.


do you have the n80 valve hooked up correctly, this has been shown to cause this issue, also there is a vacuum line that goes under/near the abs module that needs a check valve and vacuum pulling on it.
also mine cam from an A6, I just removed the plastic pin in the ecu plug that didn't allow me to install an S4 ECU and just put in a M-Box tune, no code out needed.

I haven't messed with the N80 valve, I think its working but what could make sense is ecu is seeing n80 fine, but maybe the M box ecu isn't sending a signal to the cluster for this function like a newer ecu would?? does that sound plausible at all? I think this signal must have been coming from the old ecu, not from the car or else it would be working without any extra effort.

I have the vac line hooked up below the ABS, I reused the A6 brake booster line and tee for connecting to that line just like it came out of the A6.
I had my ecu coded to an M box tune, funny I had to break that plastic tab to connect it in my brothers swapped S4.. didn't know about that before.


The car was mostly sorted when I picked it up. A few lingering issues that I have been dealing with. I don't have any evidence of a vacuum leak (idle is smooth and right around -20) and my AFR's are pretty darn good. I will certainly look into the n80 (I am pretty sure it has been removed, though I can't recall off the top of my head) and vacuum line you mentioned, and rescan to see what I come up with.

let us know what you find, mine is pulling solid vac at 20 also. I haven't had a chance to start the last bit of wiring yet but hopefully I can get around to it one of these evenings, its so cold in the garage now I need to grab my space heater lol.

blitz2190
11-30-2016, 10:20 AM
Yes I ripped off the SAI system and it is coded out, not having any issues with that really. Evap is just the 2 wires on the body plugs should be easy to get that working I just need to pin them in.
Yeah I haven't even started looking into the fuel cap issue, I just figured it had to have the stock ecu in the loop cause it wasn't there with the 2.0t and nothing else has changed on this car but ecu/engine.



I haven't messed with the N80 valve, I think its working but what could make sense is ecu is seeing n80 fine, but maybe the M box ecu isn't sending a signal to the cluster for this function like a newer ecu would?? does that sound plausible at all? I think this signal must have been coming from the old ecu, not from the car or else it would be working without any extra effort.

I have the vac line hooked up below the ABS, I reused the A6 brake booster line and tee for connecting to that line just like it came out of the A6.
I had my ecu coded to an M box tune, funny I had to break that plastic tab to connect it in my brothers swapped S4.. didn't know about that before.



let us know what you find, mine is pulling solid vac at 20 also. I haven't had a chance to start the last bit of wiring yet but hopefully I can get around to it one of these evenings, its so cold in the garage now I need to grab my space heater lol.

the n80 just controls the vacuum, the leak detection pump is what provides the signal and determines if there is an evap leak, is this wired correctly as well? also the n80 is hooked to the vacuum line that went down near the fuel line right? and I get you on the cold haha, I'll be finishing refreshing my heads this weekend, and if all goes well hopefully have them back on my engine. I miss the 2.7 and not looking forward to working in the cold.

jbain2
11-30-2016, 10:53 AM
unless everything associated with the n80 has been coded out this is most likely your reason for the gas cap warning. There is no sensor that is in the cap that tells it if its on, its done based on vacuum. Which is why a bad seal on the gas cap will give the same error. even if its been coded out this would explain why your not getting a error code but still showing on the dash. The only thing I recommend having coded out is SAI(which would be easier to just swith to an M-box tune and is more widely supported for tunes) and the rear o2 Sensors.

So why does is go away with the B6 cluster?


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blitz2190
11-30-2016, 10:59 AM
that's a good question, and my best guess is that it may be on the b6 that the cluster looks for it on the k-line much like the reason why the 2.7 wont work with the 8.0 abs. I'm betting that it could be coded out of the dash using VCDS but not positive on that.

jbain2
11-30-2016, 11:05 AM
that's a good question, and my best guess is that it may be on the b6 that the cluster looks for it on the k-line much like the reason why the 2.7 wont work with the 8.0 abs. I'm betting that it could be coded out of the dash using VCDS but not positive on that.

I actually emailed Ross-Tech about coding it out. They did not offer any advice besides to post in their retrofit forum.


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blitz2190
11-30-2016, 11:09 AM
I actually emailed Ross-Tech about coding it out. They did not offer any advice besides to post in their retrofit forum.


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but your problem isn't the fuel cap correct? I thought you were having issues with the coolant temp, as to the fuel cap for op it may be due to a difference of signal. It could probably be faked with a canbus shield and arduino, but coding it out if at all possible would be far easier. or it could be the leak detection pump isn't wired, have to wait to see what he finds.

jbain2
11-30-2016, 11:11 AM
but your problem isn't the fuel cap correct? I thought you were having issues with the coolant temp, as to the fuel cap for op it may be due to a difference of signal. It could probably be faked with a canbus shield and arduino, but coding it out if at all possible would be far easier.

With the B7 cluster in I get the fuel cap warning (video I posted). All other gauges work properly. When I switch to the B6 cluster, the fuel cap warning goes away but my temp gauge doesn't work.


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blitz2190
11-30-2016, 11:19 AM
ah ok, so yeah than most likely its the way the signal is passed, to your coolant temp issue, the b7 may have been able to pull it from the canbus, as to the b6 cluster, do you have the T10m(T10p) BLACK Pin9 blue/brown from the 2.7 harness connected to t17d RED Pin3 blue/brown on the b7 plugs? if so it may be a bad sensor (one side is ecu the other is dash signal).

jbain2
11-30-2016, 11:26 AM
ah ok, so yeah than most likely its the way the signal is passed, to your coolant temp issue, the b7 may have been able to pull it from the canbus, as to the b6 cluster, do you have the T10m(T10p) BLACK Pin9 blue/brown from the 2.7 harness connected to t17d RED Pin3 blue/brown on the b7 plugs? if so it may be a bad sensor (one side is ecu the other is dash signal).

I have a jumper harness. Would have to tear things apart to confirm.


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blitz2190
11-30-2016, 11:33 AM
I have a jumper harness. Would have to tear things apart to confirm.


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if you have a multimeter just stick one probe into the back of the wire T10m(T10p) BLACK Pin9 blue/brown and the other probe into the pin on the t17d RED Pin3 blue/brown plug.

jbain2
11-30-2016, 11:48 AM
if you have a multimeter just stick one probe into the back of the wire T10m(T10p) BLACK Pin9 blue/brown and the other probe into the pin on the t17d RED Pin3 blue/brown plug.

Might be a day or two. Will see what I get. Thanks.


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Ali SC3
11-30-2016, 11:55 AM
yeah the fuel cap warning is specific to the b7 cluster. I thought the b6 cluster didn't have a fuel cap warning, hence why it doesn't throw the warning. I am not sure it can be coded out or not.

I think the n80 is wired right, I haven't messed with the engine side of the engine harness so I assume its good, and its routed like it was stock. I need to connect those 2 pins first and check the vag com again.

actually I just thought about using the vag com to check and see if the ecu is getting the oil temp signal. If it is then it is likely the difference in sensors messing with the cluster.
maybe all signs are pointing to using a b6 cluster, but I really liked the look of the rs4 cluster lol.

jbain2
11-30-2016, 12:00 PM
yeah the fuel cap warning is specific to the b7 cluster. I thought the b6 cluster didn't have a fuel cap warning, hence why it doesn't throw the warning. I am not sure it can be coded out or not.

I think the n80 is wired right, I haven't messed with the engine side of the engine harness so I assume its good, and its routed like it was stock. I need to connect those 2 pins first and check the vag com again.

actually I just thought about using the vag com to check and see if the ecu is getting the oil temp signal. If it is then it is likely the difference in sensors messing with the cluster.
maybe all signs are pointing to using a b6 cluster, but I really liked the look of the rs4 cluster lol.

What measuring block for the oil temp? With the B6 cluster in when I wasn't getting the gauge to function I still got appropriate coolant temps via measuring blocks.

In the end I may have to decide between the annoying fuel cap warning or possibly using something like vfiz or a ppd to show oil and coolant temps.


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Ali SC3
11-30-2016, 12:10 PM
no idea what measuring block I haven't checked it before. going to search around later and see if I can find it.

blitz2190
11-30-2016, 12:12 PM
looks like it can be codded out from the Comfort System module #46 Central Convenience, write down your current coding just in case, then take that number and subtract 16384 (the number for Fuel Cap Recognition active). Its Worth a shot then you would just need the rs4 oil sensor if yours ends up being good, easiest way to check is to see if there is 12v between pins 1 and 2 that connect to the sensor, and the 3rd wire should have a voltage between 0-12 when connected to the sensor. the sensor doesn't acually connect to the ecu

Ali SC3
11-30-2016, 01:26 PM
Well if it can be coded out that is great news, do you mean using vag com? not that familiar with it so I have no idea what you mean by subtracting 16384 but I will do some more research into it and see what can be done.

blitz2190
11-30-2016, 01:33 PM
Well if it can be coded out that is great news, do you mean using vag com? not that familiar with it so I have no idea what you mean by subtracting 16384 but I will do some more research into it and see what can be done.

similar to this procedure, you would look under coding for you current coding then subtract 16384 from that number.

http://www.myturbodiesel.com/wiki/vcds-vag-com-tweaks-and-modification-settings-in-the-comfort-module-on-mk5-mk6-vw/

jbain2
12-01-2016, 11:41 AM
similar to this procedure, you would look under coding for you current coding then subtract 16384 from that number.

http://www.myturbodiesel.com/wiki/vcds-vag-com-tweaks-and-modification-settings-in-the-comfort-module-on-mk5-mk6-vw/

This won't work for me. My coding is 11896. I can't subtract that value. Incidentally when I go into coding it states that 16384 is the value for side windows with insulated glass. Where did you see that the code 16384 was linked to the fuel door?


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blitz2190
12-01-2016, 06:51 PM
This won't work for me. My coding is 11896. I can't subtract that value. Incidentally when I go into coding it states that 16384 is the value for side windows with insulated glass. Where did you see that the code 16384 was linked to the fuel door?


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Listed on rostech site, for the center convenience module but looking again I guess i skimmed to quickly as it is for the A8 I misread it.

Ali SC3
12-02-2016, 12:11 PM
interesting, well hopefully we can figure out something for that issue. Haven't had a chance to work on it yet been a busy week.
hoping to get some wiring time in this weekend will keep you guys posted on how it all goes.

Also returning the new 2.7t oil level sensor I had ordered and ordering a new b7 rs4 one, so will let you guys know if that fixes the issue when it comes in.

jbain2
12-02-2016, 12:13 PM
I am going to stick with the B6 cluster. No more annoying fuel cap warning. I have a vfiz on my other B7. Going to plug it in and see if I can get values to read out with it.


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mightemouce
12-09-2016, 08:10 AM
Only way I was able to defeat the close gas cap warning was using with a B6 cluster.
The B7 cluster is an rb8 while the b6 is an rb4 and allows you to bypass the fuel cap warning with just bypassing the wiring while I believe the rb8 has it tied into the body control module and communicates on the CANBUS network.

jbain2
12-09-2016, 06:37 PM
Only way I was able to defeat the close gas cap warning was using with a B6 cluster.
The B7 cluster is an rb8 while the b6 is an rb4 and allows you to bypass the fuel cap warning with just bypassing the wiring while I believe the rb8 has it tied into the body control module and communicates on the CANBUS network.

Did you have problems with any of the other gauges?


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blitz2190
12-12-2016, 07:15 AM
Only way I was able to defeat the close gas cap warning was using with a B6 cluster.
The B7 cluster is an rb8 while the b6 is an rb4 and allows you to bypass the fuel cap warning with just bypassing the wiring while I believe the rb8 has it tied into the body control module and communicates on the CANBUS network.

so its safe to assume that the body control module gets a can signal from the ecu on the leak detection pump for the cap. @jbain2 if you are able to monitor canbus signals you could probably imitate it, I lost my canbus shield so I need to order another one.

jbain2
12-14-2016, 09:14 AM
so its safe to assume that the body control module gets a can signal from the ecu on the leak detection pump for the cap. @jbain2 if you are able to monitor canbus signals you could probably imitate it, I lost my canbus shield so I need to order another one.

Not sure how I would go about doing this. The canbus stuff is beyond my knowledge. It's definitely a problem with the ECU communicating with the cluster. I see an accurate temp readout in the engine measuring blocks but when I try to log via cluster measuring blocks I get an engine temp of -100C.


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blitz2190
12-14-2016, 09:19 AM
Not sure how I would go about doing this. The canbus stuff is beyond my knowledge. It's definitely a problem with the ECU communicating with the cluster. I see an accurate temp readout in the engine measuring blocks but when I try to log via cluster measuring blocks I get an engine temp of -100C.


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that's bizarre as there is a coolant temp that wires directly to the cluster from the temp sensor. Have you rechecked your wiring yet?

jbain2
12-14-2016, 09:32 AM
that's bizarre as there is a coolant temp that wires directly to the cluster from the temp sensor. Have you rechecked your wiring yet?

It's not a wiring issue. I get accurate readings from the engine temp gauge from the B7 (RB8 cluster). It has to be related to the way the ECU and B6 (RB4 cluster) communicate.


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blitz2190
12-14-2016, 12:19 PM
It's not a wiring issue. I get accurate readings from the engine temp gauge from the B7 (RB8 cluster). It has to be related to the way the ECU and B6 (RB4 cluster) communicate.


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Do you mean from the ECU? if your getting an accurate reading from the cluster the issue is with the cluster. Also the temp for the gauge comes from one side of the cts and goes directly to the dash not through the ecu. The other side of the cts supplies the ecu, thats why there are 4 pins on the green cts. Also the B6 cluster works just fine this way I know because it works in my car. Have you actually checked the wiring, maybe the reason the b7 cluster worked was because it was able to pull the info over canbus but your cts wiring to the cluster is not correct and this would explain why its not working. Other than that the B6 cluster and 2.7 ecu communicate perfectly as long as the 2.7 is M-box or what ever apr uses as a base, those are the only 2 I've seen work correctly, and I have had both on my car.

jbain2
12-14-2016, 02:53 PM
Do you mean from the ECU? if your getting an accurate reading from the cluster the issue is with the cluster. Also the temp for the gauge comes from one side of the cts and goes directly to the dash not through the ecu. The other side of the cts supplies the ecu, thats why there are 4 pins on the green cts. Also the B6 cluster works just fine this way I know because it works in my car. Have you actually checked the wiring, maybe the reason the b7 cluster worked was because it was able to pull the info over canbus but your cts wiring to the cluster is not correct and this would explain why its not working. Other than that the B6 cluster and 2.7 ecu communicate perfectly as long as the 2.7 is M-box or what ever apr uses as a base, those are the only 2 I've seen work correctly, and I have had both on my car.

I haven't checked the wiring. I didn't do the wiring and it's s jumper harness. I don't think it's worth tearing into the harness at this point for this issue. When I measure engine coolant temps in the engine measuring blocks I get an accurate reading. When I measure engine coolant temp in the cluster measuring blocks I get -100C. So it would have to be an issue with the wiring from the cts to the cluster. I am going to see if swapping in another B6 cluster resolves anything temporarily to rule out the cluster. Thanks.


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Ali SC3
12-14-2016, 03:41 PM
yeah it sounds like you need extra wiring to the body plug for the coolant on the b6 cluster.

now I am wondering if I wasted money coding this b7 rs4 cluster.. hopefully its possible to figure out the gas cap issue or is it so hopeless I should just go to a b6 cluster and sell this one ?

If I stick with this cluster I have to change to the newer oil level sensor... if I swap to b6 I can keep the old oil level sensor.. decisions decisions...

any of you guys have an extra b6 cluster laying around?

jbain2
12-14-2016, 04:18 PM
Trying to get the wiring schematics. This may be a problem I will have to live with. I can't live with the annoying fuel cap warning. So unless there is a workaround for that I may be settling for the lesser of two evils.

Does the RS4 sensor solve the issue of the oil level not reading properly?


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Ali SC3
12-14-2016, 04:31 PM
I haven't tried it yet but I am hoping that it does, because the wiring I did is the same that blitz posted so I think it has to be the b7 cluster is looking for the newer sensor.

not sure I can live with the fuel cap warning either.. but hoping someone solves it eventually so I dont have to switch. I will stick with the b7 for now until everything else is working and see how it plays out.
once I solve everything else I will be motivated to look into this, but its been so cold I haven't done any wiring or work on the audi, maybe this weekend I can get a few hours in we shall see.

b7_Andy
12-14-2016, 06:15 PM
Just thought about this... Martin was running that RS4 cluster with his 2.0. So it worked with a B7 A4 oil lever sensor. Unless the B5 and B7 sensors are totally different then I feel like the sensor should still be the same even with the RS cluster. Just wanted to give you something to think about before you buy an RS sensor...


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blitz2190
12-14-2016, 06:23 PM
Just thought about this... Martin was running that RS4 cluster with his 2.0. So it worked with a B7 A4 oil lever sensor. Unless the B5 and B7 sensors are totally different then I feel like the sensor should still be the same even with the RS cluster. Just wanted to give you something to think about before you buy an RS sensor...


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the b7 a4 sensor is the same part # as the rs4 one, the b5/b6 are the same but it looks like there is a change as they are different b7 to b5/b6, not in actual shape though.

as for the gas cap the only thing I can think of is someone with a stock car taps the canbus and records the data to see what there.

b7_Andy
12-14-2016, 06:25 PM
the b7 a4 sensor is the same part # as the rs4 one

The cluster definitely worked with that sensor so I guess the question is if the difference between the B5 and B7 sensors are causing the problem.

jbain2
12-14-2016, 06:28 PM
the b7 a4 sensor is the same part # as the rs4 one, the b5/b6 are the same but it looks like there is a change as they are different b7 to b5/b6, not in actual shape though.

as for the gas cap the only thing I can think of is someone with a stock car taps the canbus and records the data to see what there.

I have another B7. Blitz if you can walk me through how to identify what you are talking about I can give it a try.


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blitz2190
12-14-2016, 07:21 PM
Unfortunately its not very straight forward and admittedly I know very little about the ID's used in the VAG canbus, but essentially you would tap the powertrain canbus (I did this with an arduino and a seeed studio canbus shield) and sniff the data and once you have identified the ecu ID you would record the data with the engine running with cap on then shut the car off, remove the cap, start the car and record again. This wouldn't be very easy to figure it out right away you would have to decipher the messages and figure out which bytes of the message contain the info you need. If there is a canbus database for vag cars I haven't found it yet.

themadscientist
12-14-2016, 07:39 PM
I don't know if I can help or not but I have a 2.0 B7 in for service right now. I'll check the CCM/CLM and cluster to see if I can find a workaround for the gas cap.

blitz2190
12-14-2016, 08:20 PM
I don't know if I can help or not but I have a 2.0 B7 in for service right now. I'll check the CCM/CLM and cluster to see if I can find a workaround for the gas cap.

A canbus sniffer on the obd port while requesting data from evap on the ecu would get you what you need i believe, or even possibly a canbus sniffer program at the same time as vcds but im not sure they can be used at the same time without setting up some sort of com port sharing

Ali SC3
12-15-2016, 12:45 PM
wow, that sounds terribly complex. what about a comfort control module downgrade to a b6 one is that a remote possibility? but if the cluster is looking for the signal then it might not even do anything even if possible.

on the oil level sensor the b7 a4 and rs4 have a new part number... the b7 s4 has the old part number for the b5/b6.
So it appears they did change the sensor and that is why people with b7 a4 can use the b7 rs4 cluster without any issues cause both use the new sensor.

I am going to hold off on ordering the sensor for now until I get the rest sorted cause I know what the problem is now at least.
the whole fuel cap might make me eventually change to a b6 cluster so I rather not keep changing sensors.

blitz2190
12-15-2016, 12:50 PM
wow, that sounds terribly complex. what about a comfort control module downgrade to a b6 one is that a remote possibility?

It very well could be but we wouldn't know what problems that brought until someone tries, If I had an extra I would be willing to give it a shot. I wounder if they have the same pinout.

jbain2
12-15-2016, 12:51 PM
It very well could be but we wouldn't know what problems that brought until someone tries, If I had an extra I would be willing to give it a shot. I wounder if they have the same pinout.

I can send you my B7 cluster. Is that what you are looking for? Or the B6?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

blitz2190
12-15-2016, 01:05 PM
I can send you my B7 cluster. Is that what you are looking for? Or the B6?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I could try just for kicks but I would have to flash my pin to it and I don't know how to on a b7 (rb8 I beleive), Let me see what that would take first, If i did I would have to do this on my daily as the swapped car is currently under the knife so would most likely not be until after christmas as I have a long trip I need to make. That being said I have seen people using the rs4 cluster in the B6 without a fuel cap warning so its a good possibility that it would work.

Ali
12-15-2016, 01:46 PM
wow, that sounds terribly complex. what about a comfort control module downgrade to a b6 one is that a remote possibility? but if the cluster is looking for the signal then it might not even do anything even if possible.

on the oil level sensor the b7 a4 and rs4 have a new part number... the b7 s4 has the old part number for the b5/b6.
So it appears they did change the sensor and that is why people with b7 a4 can use the b7 rs4 cluster without any issues cause both use the new sensor.

I am going to hold off on ordering the sensor for now until I get the rest sorted cause I know what the problem is now at least.
the whole fuel cap might make me eventually change to a b6 cluster so I rather not keep changing sensors.

you can always grab the comfort control module from my car and give it a shot.

blitz2190
12-15-2016, 02:11 PM
you can always grab the comfort control module from my car and give it a shot.

this would be much easier than trying to adapt a b7 cluster to my car.

Ali SC3
12-15-2016, 02:23 PM
you can always grab the comfort control module from my car and give it a shot.

oh yeah totally forgot we can swap parts lol. will take a look and see how hard it is to get to mine and snap some pics to see if connector is the same.

Also the LX570 x 2 is pretty funny lol


this would be much easier than trying to adapt a b7 cluster to my car.

Yeah that definitely makes sense. do comfort control modules have to be coded to the car like the clusters? even if it plugs up that might be an issue to see if it will actually work.

*edit* was reading that coding can be done with vag-com, if that is the case this could actually work

blitz2190
12-15-2016, 02:26 PM
oh yeah totally forgot we can swap parts lol. will take a look and see how hard it is to get to mine and snap some pics to see if connector is the same.

Also the LX570 x 2 is pretty funny lol



Yeah that definitely makes sense. do comfort control modules have to be coded to the car like the clusters? even if it plugs up that might be an issue to see if it will actually work.

nope, as long as it has the same pinout, it will be fine, I've used 4 different ones in 2 cars

Ali SC3
12-15-2016, 02:38 PM
awesome, looking on ebay the connectors look the exact same and even the same color, so there might be something to this.

now if a b7 had extra feature compared to a b6, I would assume some wont work but all the basic ones like windows, door opening, trunk, gas lid etc... should be pretty standard between the 2
If it turns out to be that simple of a fix I will be ridiculously happy about it.

am I correct in thinking its under the seat? passenger or driver? any tips since you have done it at least 4 times lol

blitz2190
12-15-2016, 02:56 PM
awesome, looking on ebay the connectors look the exact same and even the same color, so there might be something to this.

now if a b7 had extra feature compared to a b6, I would assume some wont work but all the basic ones like windows, door opening, trunk, gas lid etc... should be pretty standard between the 2
If it turns out to be that simple of a fix I will be ridiculously happy about it.

am I correct in thinking its under the seat? passenger or driver? any tips since you have done it at least 4 times lol

its under the drivers floor, You can get to it by pulling the kick panel and the trim from the drivers side and the one floor vent and working it around the pedals, should be able to fold it back enough to get to the box holding it, also helps to slide the seat all the way back. and this would be a much easier way to correct it, I can't imagine loosing to many features.

themadscientist
12-15-2016, 04:03 PM
A canbus sniffer on the obd port while requesting data from evap on the ecu would get you what you need i believe, or even possibly a canbus sniffer program at the same time as vcds but im not sure they can be used at the same time without setting up some sort of com port sharing

I have a 4 channel scope but I don't think that's going to be necessary.

blitz2190
12-15-2016, 04:12 PM
I have a 4 channel scope but I don't think that's going to be necessary.

useful for verifying signals and trying to find protocols but a lot more work just to decipher can messages.

Ali SC3
12-15-2016, 04:36 PM
If anyone has a good working b6 comfort module let me know I may just buy it to save time from swapping them around. they are all over ebay but not sure if I will get a good one that way.

blitz2190
12-20-2016, 09:10 AM
curious if you got to swap this over yet, It would be the last problem solved on the b7 swap other than a definitive fan module, which I'm hoping to have working in the near future, just need to make a pcb for it

Ali SC3
12-20-2016, 11:21 AM
I haven't done it yet but it looks really promising, I think it should work. It will probably be another week or 2 before I get to finish up all the wiring and swap this guy over been pretty busy with the holidays coming up.

I don't even see the point for a fan module, I just wired up a relay and used the temp sensor on the lower radiator hose to trigger the ground side of the relay.
if you want to get fancy hook up the first fan to the lower temp side of the sensor, and the second fan to the higher temp side of the sensor.
you wont get pulse width fan operation, but you will get a 1 fan or 2 fan operation without any need for a controller.

I feel like the 2.7t runs pretty cool compared to other engines I have messed with, I couldn't even get it above 90c when I was trying... maybe on a hot day I guess.
Majority of the time 1 fan should be good enough I feel, I guess it might be a little loud at full speed but its a fan so I am not too worried about it.


The other b7 issue is the whole abs thing, I am reading on facebook that some are saying a BEL harness and ecu would talk to the b7 abs.. wheras apb you have to downgrade abs.
If there is truth to that it would have made sense for b7 swappers to start with a bel harness and ecu, but it seems a little late for that at this point, so will probably look into downgrading at some point.

blitz2190
12-20-2016, 12:13 PM
I haven't done it yet but it looks really promising, I think it should work. It will probably be another week or 2 before I get to finish up all the wiring and swap this guy over been pretty busy with the holidays coming up.

I don't even see the point for a fan module, I just wired up a relay and used the temp sensor on the lower radiator hose to trigger the ground side of the relay.
if you want to get fancy hook up the first fan to the lower temp side of the sensor, and the second fan to the higher temp side of the sensor.
you wont get pulse width fan operation, but you will get a 1 fan or 2 fan operation without any need for a controller.

I feel like the 2.7t runs pretty cool compared to other engines I have messed with, I couldn't even get it above 90c when I was trying... maybe on a hot day I guess.
Majority of the time 1 fan should be good enough I feel, I guess it might be a little loud at full speed but its a fan so I am not too worried about it.


The other b7 issue is the whole abs thing, I am reading on facebook that some are saying a BEL harness and ecu would talk to the b7 abs.. wheras apb you have to downgrade abs.
If there is truth to that it would have made sense for b7 swappers to start with a bel harness and ecu, but it seems a little late for that at this point, so will probably look into downgrading at some point.

the other downside to the bel is the lack of tuning support, its starting to happen but the apb is well known and tuned. as for the fan control, I did the same using the factory switch low temp triggers the big fan and high temp the aux. But the reason I'm working on the module is to bolt into place of the stock, control the fans using relays as above but also triggers the aux fan when the a/c comes on. As of right now the only way to do this would be a switch of some sort that you turn on when you turn on the a/c. as for the abs downgrade be sure to grab the g202 yaw rate sensor from the b6 (its located behind the radio), and the lines from the master cylinder to the abs, other than that its just rewiring the plug, fairly straight forward and thanks to kristof I know the wiring in my thread is correct.

Ali SC3
12-20-2016, 01:34 PM
Interesting, well then I will stick with the apb because I want a reliable tune on there and I know the one I have works.

I see what you mean with the a/c, but I feel its not really a needed feature but I could be wrong, all the older cars just have it with the coolant temp regardless of a/c.
you could just also wire up the a/c switch to one (or both) of the fans on the relay ground side in parallel to the coolant temp sensor so either could complete the circuit.

thanks for the info on the abs, I will be sure to check that out. wish I had grabbed it off the c5 I took the abs module from, the final step will be hunting down those parts and getting abs working.
thanks again for the wiring info that will be massively helpful as it should just be a repining then. I will get cracking on this stuff closer to new years here hopefully.

blitz2190
12-22-2016, 07:53 AM
Interesting, well then I will stick with the apb because I want a reliable tune on there and I know the one I have works.

I see what you mean with the a/c, but I feel its not really a needed feature but I could be wrong, all the older cars just have it with the coolant temp regardless of a/c.
you could just also wire up the a/c switch to one (or both) of the fans on the relay ground side in parallel to the coolant temp sensor so either could complete the circuit.

thanks for the info on the abs, I will be sure to check that out. wish I had grabbed it off the c5 I took the abs module from, the final step will be hunting down those parts and getting abs working.
thanks again for the wiring info that will be massively helpful as it should just be a repining then. I will get cracking on this stuff closer to new years here hopefully.

Unfortunately the b6 and I'm betting the B7 as well uses a pressure sensor instead of the high/low switch like the b5, they output a voltage between 0-5v, what I essentially did was figure out when the fans are suppose to come one at, and built a simple schmitt trigger using some reliable analog components so no special mcu, this turns the aux fan relay on at the specified high temp and shuts off at the low temp, the reason I did this was so the fan and relay wouldn't oscillate to quickly and burn out. I included a replaceable 3amp auto fuse for the logic side and a 40amp fuse for the fan supply on board, essentially it would need to connect to the fan ground, a switched 12v signal, the 12v fan supply, the fans, and tap the 5v sensor. I just need to make up the pcb, I have the eagle files and parts list done. And of course I need to wait for the weather to test it in, unless I find someone willing to test it down south.

Ali SC3
01-10-2017, 10:43 AM
Ok I see what you are saying now... that would work but sounds like you have alot of time into it. I would have probably reverted to an older type switch to save time. let us know how it goes though.

So Sorry I have been MIA on this project for a few weeks, holidays and work had me running around with no time left.
This weekend I will be finishing the last of the wiring left on the audi so I can get it finished up and take it to the exhaust shop.

With the wiring you posted I should fly through it, the only thing I am concerned about now is that brake switch going to the left A-Pillar.
I will try and take it off and see if I can find this green connector... but do you have any other insight on that.
I def need to get the brake switch sorted because the brake lights are always on at the moment... funny thing is that before the body plug wiring the brakes were working fine with the pedal but now its obviously seeing something it doesn't like or is missing something it wants, probably that signal I am guessing.

So once I get these wired this weekend, I will try that b6 comfort control module and see how it goes. also going to order the newer oil level sensor, ecs has been slacking on getting me my refund on the other one.

Ali SC3
01-16-2017, 03:29 PM
Well I got most of the wiring done as per the Blitz's thread, most of it seems to match up right.

I am wondering if this line is correct

Brake Vacuum Vent Valve T15(T15e) WHITE Pin12 white/red T17e WHITE Pin12 white/red T17d RED Pin12 white/red

On my b7 a4 plug, the white/red wire was originally on red plug pin 8, so I am not sure if this goes to pin 8 or 12, I tried both but brake lights are still on all the time.
I will experiment and try and figure out which 2 of it these are but I think there could be a typo there?


the brake switch also I tried to white pin 8, not sure why but I had that pin marked down, it didn't turn the brake lights off with the wire above on either pin 8 or 12, so I think I may have to run this to the A-pillar as you wrote. I just thought it would be somewhere on the body plug for the old ecu, seems weird that I have to take the A pillar apart.

The evap and other wires seemed correct. I have 2 red/grey wires that is confusing for the oil level thermal sensor, but I can figure that out later when I install the correct a4/rs4 b7 oil sensor.

basically I need my brake lights to behave. if there is no power to the ecu then the brake lights work fine, its so weird that the ecu affects the brake lights or even needs that signal.


also my auto harness has no clutch vent switch valve wire in the same spot or color, so I might have to wire that manually later.
also did not find the crash signal wire in the spot mentioned, but I did see that color somewhere else but didn't want to risk it.

Ali SC3
01-16-2017, 06:46 PM
So removed the A-pillar and I didn't find any green connectors. only connector was for the visor, am I missing something?

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/yk7L1zuVOzWOivjiPRmN4wFYEXJhUKWhfUPgopMnWlGGznh5Dw 5_xIGRG8lgJSFDLWlCMvefkIogZtz1dx5JLFLfpLgpdxO1eiWd 905R_8UAQCRSAv6S04UGwruzJp5ezS_E1U_RV4b8lO1I3qEp4y XUcDCgUuqQcWodPcnA69J9dih1fxTEhdhM2Ru_lDYbHUnJHQLS 2iIIF0YuRLjFJL_QNHLqOkNbDAXW0M98FIz63Da1Eb8-y5N0ufMzpJYdHck6SlGGO9_bgynHK9fHOcnjremttOeMWJ9C47 pt_rk2fhyuhYj0fiP9yb6X_gc9evPMcMgvCWepVtXpgDH2Ke1W uDgAj6ds27Nb2UUQPV7DA0y31uDfGwkhVTwhN51hikN9NOFmta odxuyTLcocWgf24umLj0TKytgMHvER1GQXSE38YGXN7FMeB3Pd 1wdbKhg79hQpJ0dwuNRrivgAn-AA1lZ2hSmPYqqMezkHZn8_Um4gZCooxUk-LDUvLl9c14RvBs1KdNzMCR0T43bAAK8vw9X_OLTxhdqKULt__Q 2sy3NGnHBvSVlgxcsLWIUE6VaVqlfeL7EHPxBXWBlKe87Kzm1k de9cQxOn5pSY8UjqoF-Quv4Q8g=w836-h627-no

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/eol__VM3lEnr2xurGGOuWRZM6RVJDcVIYLvSjbmZs4LWZhkFO7 oyj98-UM3vb1bPdzexJTwa1NB3JdQxAWCKBHzZb54nRPdbBGXeFExSNX Rf-QEEHmIyZwQklh_C3TYgfjbgEvgKCfNYeQzlMFKjwDjHA9E_yxY vFjEUtbhjWHUSTiEcvrXOOIQWfViZLgO0KF_K6IUWTVzDiwvzG v9SSQ2Dnn58DSPgjN71uO7Gpjy72CtQGhNUccXjLs6c8oljZp1 8dn2LtBSDoy6Ow_vdZf3NSIreXwr0GIYCzCwFXDDYMELG18HGS LHqTOc2qdtguQe9oeEU6rMTaynYIv66xZCZfvSx8K52StsXaw9 aXnw8PreVbDz1wtb8FKMPnioFtR2Q_maq1C9jGLr2E1AjXsDsy GNyEM-8uoyIQF-e3rMJU1R9HhmSg7ceLKwMgB9NV37vNYON4YsoQTXcGK2oXqQ8w 9jOyS9TuDxv978xIVj2mIvq79IKXQxI87c06-AyQx09mL0zAEJi-dkuPv5K2EnBfnqzKMpSsLxP9z4JKo4To6hwsevX3NUexWtcArw dWjNezlitxSs4emVe6_ZZMfk8skHhWzZfjXBrp_cecwqQhNpnH JYoiQ=w836-h627-no

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/3rvYZzp2MQ3amoOIp9sDw31uI_SSdv-ApcpvLu5PEuv4r91lQgrDvFxykgIZ-gtHktw1BoNDRov2snFc5yS3ATJnBjvad6xTcnP66Pui2F-vMRHr3A9TR38PdoAU1VbjXH1Va8Zk8O_CCLYa24tTIxowYEguj O4WgteQYT5y2AMc8dHmYda9734wJvT0Csj5JC2fypkqeq5Ax7D 5K-iRLxUUO7ysfJjEFKovv03R3vAekxD_gHmO4_7KuMRO9uD5l3s5 iVMGh0ehKaDhrIEfuAZXVB3okGpGNEa-ChxgLuir5KPbFwXeU_7YTQi4vADRiw2XwZcqVlXoj7EmhpHLOE GJkA8HAB4ZghIuMikEcaSLvIoyMoMztcMfceCItyyEut7YWAll HaS51P0JK8gIcYNDpHiFQhMkzdaC2LkjUhW5fGe1Wekf6HfXh3 KwAGzS6vjnaP6m5g94dxREF2nvEYAAXV5B4Xd_vZXKoNO3yhsJ nrGcCfpAqO3U3rNWGUMjQwf9nUAhaqle1CK3QaroytdYJ_ylR2 vW3QSMqMuFu9zSgjNL48sSkPDDgTOi8V8K8Px04HyVoGqgWsWt mbfpPJ1RSd6pa_0-T0H-FMorN2Q-6c1P22K0Dw=w836-h627-no

I am going to check over the schematics I can find for the brake lights. Any help is appreciated thanks.

blitz2190
01-16-2017, 06:51 PM
I'll take a look at my diagrams tomorrow, And I'm very sorry I ment the kick panel, I have no Idea why I said a-pillar I think its because i thats what the diagram called it. Its at the driver side kick panel trim.

Ali SC3
01-16-2017, 07:12 PM
that makes more sense. I did take a quick look around there and didn't see it, ill take a closer look when I get a chance this week.

Ali SC3
01-17-2017, 08:02 PM
So here is a pic of the diagrams I found, maybe it makes more sense to you

This is the 2006 B7 A4 2.0T
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/ZnOQq-jdvvQpmmdz4ahZDqs7SwlgJ6TXJUvph10ULZmeKGD-FBdCSPp5a0suN5LtJUkVcCNR9PYDMN8oENH1T2xz5ZoK8bHA0b Yb2wMWMiqhgNPFr8mKy-2x7N3z1Zd41sp2LJSgVKko0Fom96hE1l4bz9N-S0YuaBSPZMLVt4a9ZN4fsp1A3KQuYo1xqInndXbhN21Fc2_5vP ps0eKkzhchGXTcTX7IQ8p7ervXcP9BpDKlU1u3x4vJ8y3OU5yD EHa5Lm7TcdrK1msqgtg-1qTiR41Fbw7Qdtas5OTg9ZZgSCoxLrviIOLjT6Ax-g72eBnhAsApGvFS4F0mb5mZpEa7whpfEkJm8336uLxw0p8QHLZ 1Z-G62FvpAGsBW93I6Vl7kCqC1_qZVHN912Q4t0DBEB2SrhnIz89l sb3g41PkLcUbRBfNliYnmbfHaWJBKDC_lGe_3GW02LdRn8g3y4 6jqct005EM7TeTIQiGedbjOVGidrmYTFTpp3w3Ysi2JTgoSiLj wj5ULRz0CtRKCLBYTh0-cELjeYdqZoObQdR049vFqj_5Dy0qTkZh1flQaV0fWaaiChxnOd hd-FTeEW8VTGdWXDKrGzF2I_kQg06R2Ehmz3HKWA=w507-h676-no

This is the one from the 2001 A6 2.7t

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/nIoZ-indjT1Ai6Hv1fz63EUmu06_jb80d3gZ7e39y1k3DmLnI--cy3CEScppO0djxqFmGAaNkZm6vMg1MtCs8WIK_DrWDNzX9A5FK RTBjQkMI7tXjKZFMb5upmaP50FciVFVs34q6sw5OIxjYY2mxnd A7axXl6nNOvBmJcjcjvGI5MROZsAbH44XDURoGa8Y4WS4APCyA 30s-v8oE-JM6IGovfiw8Uy5xNhRqEIVnGLjJ20wzjyNYEiGLQ-AthM-gGkk8tW-ryymrWTHR-jLBVWlYkQdD63XwPZRZhHbSARyvj5iQknEINIuGP0cZTsxnlwb 9BLuI24MCxOUKK4mUbqCGYPyJREUPVREcYMyLlg0c790Pwp3rU 7FI0ZPI9mzLRsQ2dujdJdaZPyro9BpPSfPBXvKCMvTwYjTbL-p-bomvnhubU_2cApdQgMyTXvOM62bm8X7NP3ujFtbvlSprQGFRHY jByNSPSn8fooJ2-bMsm7n3A21OjDTQdu7-AkRADr0luhy2_v0JCQXD12eVAXBXTZn_ShxU7rjCfKfcuXxBJV W7VbBFwsUe76Y73Tv0VvcV_6DRIeam301h6J_jp32zk9d1uWU6 BEI78x0xTYsOomEzolq3g=w507-h676-no

So I am seeing that
White plug pin 11 on the 2.7t goes to White plug pin 8 on the b7
White plug pin 12 on the 2.7t goes to Red plug pin 8 on the B7.

Ali SC3
01-17-2017, 08:27 PM
looking at the diagram i am wondering if pins 11 and 12 should be flipped? might be worth a try for me
if you look by pin numbers on the brake switch and not colors/everything else,
pin 4 on the b7 a4 is red/black, but pin 4 on the a6 is white/red.
pin 2 on the b7 a4 is white/red, but pin 2 on the a6 is red/black.

blitz2190
01-17-2017, 08:53 PM
this is the one I've be referencing from elsaWin
33368

Ali SC3
01-19-2017, 10:11 PM
any ideas on what to try?
I hope I don't need to downconvert the abs just to get the brake lights to work at this point.

on vag com the brake light switch works properly, and without the key on the brake lights also work properly, but as soon as key goes on they come on all the time and the code for brake switch signal implausible comes up. I'm going to try messing with it again this weekend and see where I can get with it. I'm hoping its just a wiring from the ecu.

Also going to check the fuses just in case.

blitz2190
01-20-2017, 10:50 AM
any ideas on what to try?
I hope I don't need to downconvert the abs just to get the brake lights to work at this point.

on vag com the brake light switch works properly, and without the key on the brake lights also work properly, but as soon as key goes on they come on all the time and the code for brake switch signal implausible comes up. I'm going to try messing with it again this weekend and see where I can get with it. I'm hoping its just a wiring from the ecu.

Also going to check the fuses just in case.

Did you find the green plug under the kick panel? From the diagrams i have it looks like thats where youll have to tap the right signal.

Ali SC3
01-20-2017, 02:00 PM
I haven't had a chance to look again but I will try and find it, I didn't see it last time I was in there.
should get a chance to look at it this evening so will report back.

Ali SC3
01-20-2017, 11:28 PM
OK, so I figured out the brake lights finally. My initial wiring was correct.

White plug pin 11 on the 2.7t goes to White plug pin 8 on the b7
White plug pin 12 on the 2.7t goes to Red plug pin 8 on the B7.

So the issue was the brake light switch wasn't getting power, I noticed on yours it says one of the power pins goes to 2.0t Brown plug pin 15, so i checked it and it didn't have 12v, so I connected it to 12v and the brakes started working correctly. So it just needed to be powered up.

I am also getting an evap code and I have the wires connected right. I think cause its in the body and not on the engine and for some reason it shows it gets its power from 2.0t Red plug pin 1 green/yellow so I am thinking this pin needs 12v for evap also, I will give it a try tomorrow.

That also makes me wonder if the oil level thermal sensor issue is the same problem, I am going to check that black/red wire to see if its getting power and go from there.

Last I also acquired a random b6 a4 comfort control module so I will see if that helps with the codes, hopefully I can get my keys to work with it.


The bad news is I have the 5k rev limit, really its more like 4200 or so. I am reading I need to connect the wire to this mysterious green plug T17b that I can't find.
Is it behind a bunch of stuff? I just can't seem to spot it. I'll have to find it though I guess unless I can catch it at the cluster.

blitz2190
01-21-2017, 09:48 AM
OK, so I figured out the brake lights finally. My initial wiring was correct.

White plug pin 11 on the 2.7t goes to White plug pin 8 on the b7
White plug pin 12 on the 2.7t goes to Red plug pin 8 on the B7.

So the issue was the brake light switch wasn't getting power, I noticed on yours it says one of the power pins goes to 2.0t Brown plug pin 15, so i checked it and it didn't have 12v, so I connected it to 12v and the brakes started working correctly. So it just needed to be powered up.

I am also getting an evap code and I have the wires connected right. I think cause its in the body and not on the engine and for some reason it shows it gets its power from 2.0t Red plug pin 1 green/yellow so I am thinking this pin needs 12v for evap also, I will give it a try tomorrow.

That also makes me wonder if the oil level thermal sensor issue is the same problem, I am going to check that black/red wire to see if its getting power and go from there.

Last I also acquired a random b6 a4 comfort control module so I will see if that helps with the codes, hopefully I can get my keys to work with it.


The bad news is I have the 5k rev limit, really its more like 4200 or so. I am reading I need to connect the wire to this mysterious green plug T17b that I can't find.
Is it behind a bunch of stuff? I just can't seem to spot it. I'll have to find it though I guess unless I can catch it at the cluster.

i will be up at the shop later today, I'll post a pic from a b6 and hope its around the same area.

Ali SC3
01-21-2017, 12:59 PM
I found it finally I didn't think to remove that panel at the bottom. I saw a white blue wire on the green plug and tried that but I am still getting the same problem.
I didn't see a brown/red wire on the green plug... but do you know what wire I am looking for.

I also tried putting power to the red plug pin #1 green/yellow but I am still getting evap open circuit which sucks. need to look into it some more I guess.

Ali SC3
01-23-2017, 08:15 AM
here is a pic of my green plug, still haven't figured out which is the speedo wire... lol

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Ss7xi_5-cRP96CVSi31fe2JfQ8oEoXh_zMJ-gO2FIo36ETz4kV5YeZgZGCqW6cgxh0TR9zxGdTEYAwI2eKFiX-FA93iPfqCsLAP38Sybnia8dWj-5A-lRh8bv1GgNYrmsHhCI_hCt1HR0xpAXnJPQqn7x3GMLHeu-dYHgT-Rbbd2PT_UqBCWenqsVGhfROBjenEkL8Qh71j_pBaMUoP9KLwOA M0lvvBe7076kM_27muHTtT9Sm4A78Uvd7nZzPfbqSPRzOXVMTx t0y5NZwrFqAIm6miy5Bt3y_d8fY6rhNBUEr7WtDuFlCyJHqNrA 3g-43Yp8QVeYqqCS-U1iZpoAjHQimeBfnCpIXLMjw4KuU1GoVorhaYrt3oOPbkL1ACZ 5NOceqDrae702p2whGs4ZSf712DPvUH2rf2tQ6e1m94TCPHkiw 52zDe31D-lxqmt9h9i7rTD4H0LXzSEGLZJnTZ93oqdeWq1y76f3GTYtu2qk dCnbRcic58I9LHMadb9HWwqeOCfMKMbJgaisYicIUca3ujcFRL C57ntGnA5FTX0gUpPKGA7-QAZNtn93FWCJOFCwFcuFX3JX7xaEwhT7r3ErmMcdxyPs_cmj1e qwOQb9qkA_AsM0w=w1215-h912-no

blitz2190
01-23-2017, 09:51 AM
here is a pic of my green plug, still haven't figured out which is the speedo wire... lol

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Ss7xi_5-cRP96CVSi31fe2JfQ8oEoXh_zMJ-gO2FIo36ETz4kV5YeZgZGCqW6cgxh0TR9zxGdTEYAwI2eKFiX-FA93iPfqCsLAP38Sybnia8dWj-5A-lRh8bv1GgNYrmsHhCI_hCt1HR0xpAXnJPQqn7x3GMLHeu-dYHgT-Rbbd2PT_UqBCWenqsVGhfROBjenEkL8Qh71j_pBaMUoP9KLwOA M0lvvBe7076kM_27muHTtT9Sm4A78Uvd7nZzPfbqSPRzOXVMTx t0y5NZwrFqAIm6miy5Bt3y_d8fY6rhNBUEr7WtDuFlCyJHqNrA 3g-43Yp8QVeYqqCS-U1iZpoAjHQimeBfnCpIXLMjw4KuU1GoVorhaYrt3oOPbkL1ACZ 5NOceqDrae702p2whGs4ZSf712DPvUH2rf2tQ6e1m94TCPHkiw 52zDe31D-lxqmt9h9i7rTD4H0LXzSEGLZJnTZ93oqdeWq1y76f3GTYtu2qk dCnbRcic58I9LHMadb9HWwqeOCfMKMbJgaisYicIUca3ujcFRL C57ntGnA5FTX0gUpPKGA7-QAZNtn93FWCJOFCwFcuFX3JX7xaEwhT7r3ErmMcdxyPs_cmj1e qwOQb9qkA_AsM0w=w1215-h912-no

can't see the pic, as for the wire it for the 5k limit it should be the white/blue for vss signal. Let me pull up the diagrams for you. as for power to the body did you already do the 2 relays that are needed lower down under the b7 section?

edit*
attached pic shows where to find the VSS signal, this is for a 2006 2.0 BGP
33572

Ali SC3
01-23-2017, 10:59 AM
wierd, that is the pin that I tried, I will give it another go and check over the wires.

I'll double check the relays I might have missed one power wires.

blitz2190
01-23-2017, 12:00 PM
wierd, that is the pin that I tried, I will give it another go and check over the wires.

I'll double check the relays I might have missed one power wires.

have you already had the car over 5k rpm while moving?

Ali SC3
01-23-2017, 12:46 PM
I tried but it cuts out around 4200 rpm or so no matter what gear I am in.
I ran the 2.7 brown/red wire down to the green plug and spliced it in to the white/blue wire but it still gave me the speedometer signal code under ecu menu.
I will have another look. Speedo reads fine on the cluster though.

blitz2190
01-23-2017, 12:54 PM
I tried but it cuts out around 4200 rpm or so no matter what gear I am in.
I ran the 2.7 brown/red wire down to the green plug and spliced it in to the white/blue wire but it still gave me the speedometer signal code under ecu menu.
I will have another look. Speedo reads fine on the cluster though.

ah thats were it gets a little messy, the brown/red wire is from the vss sensor to the dash if it exist, which it won't on 2003+, you need to hook pin 3 of the brown plug

"A4 1.8T 2003+ - Run a wire from T17b GREEN (in the kick panel drivers footwell) Pin17(B6) or Pin9(B7) white/blue to T10 brown Pin3(2.7T plug), I suggest a quick disconnect for easy harness removal"

Ali SC3
01-23-2017, 04:02 PM
Lol, figures there are a bunch of speed signals and I got the wrong one [headbang]

Thanks man that sounds like it is the issue, I am pretty good at hooking wires together by now so it had to be the wrong wire.
I will go try it out tonight with the brown plug pin 3, one problem down hopefully [up] I'll report back after.

After that just the evap issue, oil level sensor issue (have new sensor ready to try), gas cap issue (have a spare b6 comfort module to try), in summer wire up the a/c wire and charge, and far in the future down-convert the abs.
I hope I get this thing working 100% before I retire in 30-40 years.

blitz2190
01-23-2017, 05:13 PM
Lol, figures there are a bunch of speed signals and I got the wrong one [headbang]

Thanks man that sounds like it is the issue, I am pretty good at hooking wires together by now so it had to be the wrong wire.
I will go try it out tonight with the brown plug pin 3, one problem down hopefully [up] I'll report back after.

After that just the evap issue, oil level sensor issue (have new sensor ready to try), gas cap issue (have a spare b6 comfort module to try), in summer wire up the a/c wire and charge, and far in the future down-convert the abs.
I hope I get this thing working 100% before I retire in 30-40 years.

ha, well if you can get all but the evap code you should pass inspection typically in most states you are allowed one emissions related code and it should still pass, unless your in California then your screwed lol. Also youll never really be done, if you finish this there is always a bigger turbo [evilsmile]

btw what is the actual code you are getting