Have I over-reved my car?

[shoker09]

I drive at A4 2.0 S Line and I was driving on open roads so I thought I'd test my cars capabilities. However I was red lining my car during every gear change (I know not healthy for the car) but I was really curious on how much my car can push. But now since that day, my car drives not the same no more. It doesn't have that kick of turbo when I go over 2000revs and just feels slower now suddenly. Is there any damage done or is this all in my head?

[isoodeen]

I'm not entirely sure about engine damage, but I've had it happen to my car before. I'm not sure if you've upgraded you're diverter valve but that's what fixed my problem.

[jimrobbington]

I drive at A4 2.0 S Line and I was driving on open roads so I thought I'd test my cars capabilities. However I was red lining my car during every gear change (I know not healthy for the car) but I was really curious on how much my car can push. But now since that day, my car drives not the same no more. It doesn't have that kick of turbo when I go over 2000revs and just feels slower now suddenly. Is there any damage done or is this all in my head?
You can only truly over-rev if you downshift while going too fast for the lower gear, forcing the engine to rev above redline.

[brandonpham]

Maybe fouled your plugs ? Dv issues ?

Sent from my SM-G900T using Tapatalk

[shoker09]

Maybe fouled your plugs ? Dv issues ?

Sent from my SM-G900T using Tapatalk

Plugs as in spark plugs? Maybe if I upgraded those will it help?

[xander3zero]

I drive at A4 2.0 S Line and I was driving on open roads so I thought I'd test my cars capabilities. However I was red lining my car during every gear change (I know not healthy for the car) but I was really curious on how much my car can push. But now since that day, my car drives not the same no more. It doesn't have that kick of turbo when I go over 2000revs and just feels slower now suddenly. Is there any damage done or is this all in my head?

well if you were pushing you car hard, you might have just pushed it to a boost leak. do you have a boost gauge? If you were hitting max boost over and over again (and dont do it that frequently) than you could have definitely busted the diaphragm style diverter valve or sprung a leak at your intercooler hoses, etc.

[M3mPh1z]

Agreed on it being a boost issue, if you have never changed your diverter valve it is likely you have the revision C with a rubber diaphragm which tends to tear after a while.

[shoker09]

well if you were pushing you car hard, you might have just pushed it to a boost leak. do you have a boost gauge? If you were hitting max boost over and over again (and dont do it that frequently) than you could have definitely busted the diaphragm style diverter valve or sprung a leak at your intercooler hoses, etc.

I don't have a boost gauge in my car so possibly I could have been pushing it a bit too hard. Are there performance diverter valves I can get to avoid this in the future. I will get a professional to look at it I suppose as I'm not good mechanically

[brandonpham]

I don't have a boost gauge in my car so possibly I could have been pushing it a bit too hard. Are there performance diverter valves I can get to avoid this in the future. I will get a professional to look at it I suppose as I'm not good mechanically

The piston DV, which is the latest revision from Audi.

[shoker09]

Also does anyone know if there damage to the diverter valve that it can effect fuel consumption?

[brandonpham]

Also does anyone know if there damage to the diverter valve that it can effect fuel consumption?

I wouldn't say so.

[ryanhmusic]

Also does anyone know if there damage to the diverter valve that it can effect fuel consumption?

I would say no but if you're driving harder to make up for the new lack of power, that could be affecting your fuel consumption.

I wouldn't hesitate to redline your car though once you've figured out and fixed the problem... I hit the redline every day on my way to work once the engine's warmed up. 105k+ and no [known] issues caused from that.

[FraggyA4]

First off your car is weak at Red line so no point in pushing it there unless you've tuned it to have power there. Haven't you ever played any realistic racing game where there is an ideal shift point and if you go past it you end up losing acceleration. Also I suggest just unplugging your battery overnight and reset your throttle

How to reset throttle
Put the car in Park.
Pull the handbrake up.
Put the key and put it into the position just before the starter turns (DO NOT START THE CAR)
Push the gas peddle all the way wait 3 seconds and turn the key all the way back but do not take it out
Release the gas peddle and wait 2 minutes!
Remove key than put it back in and start the car!
You will notice a better response while pressing the gas,

If you have Vag-com run these

Throttle Body
Prerequisites:
Ignition ON
Engine OFF
System voltage at least 11.0 V.

[Select]
[01 - Engine]
[Basic Settings - 04]
Group 060
[Go!]
Activate the Basic Setting.
[ON/OFF/Next]
Wait until Field 4 shows "ADP. O.K.".
[Done, Go Back]
[Close Controller, Go Back - 06]

Switch Ignition OFF.


Kick Down
Prerequisites:
Ignition ON
Engine OFF
System voltage at least 11.0 V.

[Select]
[01 - Engine]
[Basic Settings - 04]
Group 063
[Go!]
Activate the Basic Setting.
[ON/OFF/Next]
Press the pedal to the floor and hold it there for at least 2 seconds.
Observe Field 4, once the adaptation is successfully done it should show "ADP. O.K.".
[Done, Go Back]
[Close Controller, Go Back - 06]

Switch Ignition OFF.

Fuel Pump
Prerequisites:
Ignition ON
Engine ON
System voltage at least 11.0 V.

[Select]
[01 - Engine]
[Basic Settings - 04]
Group 103
[Go!]
Activate the Basic Setting.
[ON/OFF/Next]
Wait until Field 4 shows "ADP. O.K.".
[Done, Go Back]
[Close Controller, Go Back - 06]

Switch Ignition OFF.

Intake Manifold Runner
Prerequisites:
Ignition ON
Engine OFF
System voltage at least 11.0 V.

[Select]
[01 - Engine]
[Basic Settings - 04]
Group 142
[Go!]
Activate the Basic Setting.
[ON/OFF/Next]
Wait until Field 4 shows "ADP. O.K.".
[Done, Go Back]
[Close Controller, Go Back - 06]

Switch Ignition OFF for at least 60 seconds.

Notes:

The newer timing chain driven engines which were phased in during model year 2009 the engine may need to be running at idle. Common examples of these engine codes include CCTA, CBFA and CCTA.
Never run Basic Settings with the IMRC motor linkage disconnected from the intake manifold. It may damage the new part.
Readiness
Prerequisites:
Ignition ON
Engine at idle
No fault codes

[Select]
[01 - Engine]
[Basic Settings - 04]
Group 200
[Go!]
Activate the Basic Setting.
[ON/OFF/Next]
Firmly press Brake Pedal and Throttle Pedal (Full Throttle) at once to activate the basic setting.
Field 1 shows the steps counter, which counts down to 0 - then setting readiness is done.
Stay on the pedals as long as the procedure lasts.
[Done, Go Back]
[Close Controller, Go Back - 06]

Once you've done all that your car should feel peppy again. If it still has response issues then you probably have a boost leak. The reason for unplugging the battery is that it resets the ECU. Why would you want to do this? Because the ecu learns how you drive and adapts to that way. If you are screaming around at redline the ecu is going to record that and adapt to that which would give your car a doggy feeling at low rpms. Also resetting the throttle or Kickdown will make the car more responsive again.

[Dat Black Kid]

First off your car is weak at Red line so no point in pushing it there unless you've tuned it to have power there. Haven't you ever played any realistic racing game where there is an ideal shift point and if you go past it you end up losing acceleration. Also I suggest just unplugging your battery overnight and reset your throttle

How to reset throttle
Put the car in Park.
Pull the handbrake up.
Put the key and put it into the position just before the starter turns (DO NOT START THE CAR)
Push the gas peddle all the way wait 3 seconds and turn the key all the way back but do not take it out
Release the gas peddle and wait 2 minutes!
Remove key than put it back in and start the car!
You will notice a better response while pressing the gas,

Once you've done all that your car should feel peppy again. If it still has response issues then you probably have a boost leak. The reason for unplugging the battery is that it resets the ECU. Why would you want to do this? Because the ecu learns how you drive and adapts to that way. If you are screaming around at redline the ecu is going to record that and adapt to that which would give your car a doggy feeling at low rpms. Also resetting the throttle or Kickdown will make the car more responsive again.

Seriously? If you're saying to unplug the battery over night, do you do this above step the very next day, or do you do directly after unplugging the battery? Granted, I don't have these issues, but I am curious about it.

[FraggyA4]

Seriously? If you're saying to unplug the battery over night, do you do this above step the very next day, or do you do directly after unplugging the battery? Granted, I don't have these issues, but I am curious about it.

You can do the throttle whenever it just resets the position to percentage reading, some do it every few weeks to keep it fresh feeling. The battery thing just resets the data collected by the ecu that provides you with the most efficient engine operation for your driving style.

[Dat Black Kid]

You can do the throttle whenever it just resets the position to percentage reading, some do it every few weeks to keep it fresh feeling. The battery thing just resets the data collected by the ecu that provides you with the most efficient engine operation for your driving style.

Learn something new every week! I'm going to try that over the weekend...or next Wednesday!