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dazed1
08-20-2015, 06:01 PM
Many of the folks here use the car for track purposes. I wanted to create a thread and use it to gain & share knowledge for what people have done to the car to help.

To start off, I'm not an expert. In fact, this is the first car I've ever tracked. I have approximately 20-25 track days in the last 1.5 years.

I started the car off completely stock for my first track weekend. I found the brakes to be weak. They provided decent bite, but there was fade towards the end of the day. I went ahead and did the initial upgrade, went with Pagid RS29 pads, Motul 660 brake fluid.

I soon found that the rotors would need replacement. The rotors are very soft. For my second set, I went with the OEM rotors again. In a span of 1 year, about 10k miles, I went through 3 sets of rotors.

I had started keeping track of the temperatures of my rotors. I realized that the Pagid's were starting to crumble after about 4 track days. A lot of it seemed to be due to heat. The rotors would get up to anywhere between 700-900*f. I needed a solution. I did have to improve my driving style and get smoother, but I thought that parts needed replacements too. I thought about going to pads that could support higher heat (Hawk DTC 60). But decided a different route.

I first went with the 2 piece ECS rotors as they are supposed to help cool the rotors more. It did help, but not a lot. I also got aggressive in my driving after 1 year being on track. So I cannot compare the exact improvements it may have given. They are cheaper than OEM, so that is extremely helpful. :)

After talking to a few folks at the track who have had heat issues on brakes on their cars (TTRS, S4), I saw their solutions. For the TTRS, it was easier to go with ducting that is offered on the R8 (http://www.r8talk.com/forums/49-wheel-tire-discussion/5737-brake-cooling-scoops-r8-v8.html). Unfortunately, our A arms are not shaped correctly to support it.

Other solution was to use the Phaeton ducts (http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/478789-Phaeton-brake-ducts-on-B5-S4). This works and fits correctly for the S4 and the S5, but not the RS.

I work with an independent shop pretty regularly here in the Bay Area - Griffin Motorwerke (http://www.g-werke.com/), who have been helping me with the car. They were kind enough to get me a set of the R8 ducts and the Phaeton ducts to try, with no cost.

They decided to fabricate something that resembles the Phaeton ducts, as that seemed the best solution to air from the scoop behind the bumper, to the rotors. Our rotor dust shields already have cuts in them to allow additional air. This made it easier.

The end result were these custom fabricated ducts. I dont remember if they're made from aluminium, or steel.

http://i.imgur.com/JCL4Na4.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/3CRoVOz.jpg

Here they are mounted on the car after being painted black:
http://i.imgur.com/PnceSt0.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/fkLAvjD.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/svY9YSw.jpg

Bonus - car :)
http://i.imgur.com/sAXbnyh.jpg

After getting the backing plate put in, I did a track day at Sonoma. I had another AZ member who tracks his car as well. This was a good comparison for me to see how the temps are doing on our cars. He is a very similar driver, our times were within .5 seconds of each other.

I went with softer pads this time as we could not get the Pagid's in time. He was running the Pagid. I was running StopTech pads (don't remember part number).

We were measuring the rotor temps after every session.
His: 700-750*f
Mine: 350-400*f

To say the least, I am extremely pleased with this setup of rotors. I do want to see if I can get pads that have more bite on them, but don't cost $600 for a set. I will try that out probably in January or March of next year. Current set should last me till then.

The other major change I did was switch from the Pirelli's to R compound tires - Toyo Proxies R888. For me, these are strictly track use only. I put them on before I go to the track, and they come off right away.
I had to get another set of wheels for this setup though. I really wanted a set of 18's as the tires would be cheaper.

Off I went to TireRack. I found various 18" wheels that would clear our rotors. Unfortunately I wanted something that was light, and not too expensive (like the BBS CH-R's).
I came across the Tire Rack Motorsport wheel (www.tirerack.com/wheels/WheelCloseUpServlet?target=runWheelSearch&initialPartNumber=MT188535512MG&wheelMake=TRMotorsport&wheelModel=MT1&wheelFinish=Matte+Grey&showRear=no&autoMake=Audi&autoModel=RS+5&autoYear=2013&autoModClar=Standard+Brakes&filterFinish=All&filterSize=18&filterBrand=All&filterSpecial=false&filterNew=All&filterWeight=All&sort=Brand) which seemed to be light enough, 19lbs each, and relatively cheap - about $250 per wheel. I would have loved to get the OZ wheels which were light and affordable, but TR only had 2 wheels in stock.

The only 18" size that was available was 18x8 35ET. I wish I could have had a 8.5" wheel to run a more stiffer sidewall tire.

The tires I ended up with were Toyo Proxies R888 255/35/18 (http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=Toyo&tireModel=Proxes+R888&sidewall=Blackwall&partnum=535YR8R888&tab=Sizes).
I love the grip of the tire. Due to the load rating of the tires + our cars heavy weight, I have to be careful on the temperatures of the tires and play around with pressure to get the optimal temperature rating so as not endanger myself or anyone else on the track.

Here's a few pictures of the wheels. The 18"'s really look tiny on our cars. :)
Edit: I also run spacers with track wheels only. I believe 12.5 H&R on all 4.
http://i.imgur.com/VXIfi76.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/eG4XB5h.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/CYJ2CDD.jpg

Edit:
I also added a set of quick release harness with a custom made seat hoodie to hold the belt in place. Makes a great difference in keeping me well seated.
http://i.imgur.com/WJQhCTk.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/eXgKW3J.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/iGRDSKm.jpg

Steve_K
08-21-2015, 04:54 AM
Wow, this is an interesting read, keep the updates coming, I'll enjoy it.

drob23
08-21-2015, 08:10 AM
Cool thread. There is a good track driving thread stickied in the b8 s4 section. Crazy how many rotors you have gone through. Psykotic went girodisc 2 piece in the front and it seems to be working for him.

dazed1
08-21-2015, 08:20 AM
Cool thread. There is a good track driving thread stickied in the b8 s4 section. Crazy how many rotors you have gone through. Psykotic went girodisc 2 piece in the front and it seems to be working for him.

That is one of the reasons I put this up. I've seen that thread and it has a lot of useful information. Would be good to get others to contribute to it.

I agree on the # of rotors I've been through. A lot has to do with learning how to drive the car correctly. And yes, curious to know what others are using, doing, and how it turns out for them.

drob23
08-21-2015, 08:25 AM
That is one of the reasons I put this up. I've seen that thread and it has a lot of useful information. Would be good to get others to contribute to it.

I agree on the # of rotors I've been through. A lot has to do with learning how to drive the car correctly. And yes, curious to know what others are using, doing, and how it turns out for them.

I definitely look forward to reading this thread with contributions from you and your RS5 compatriots. For the record, that ducting work you did is incredible and fills in a massive void for all variants of this platform. I'm going to look into something similar.

dazed1
08-21-2015, 08:32 AM
I definitely look forward to reading this thread with contributions from you and your RS5 compatriots. For the record, that ducting work you did is incredible and fills in a massive void for all variants of this platform. I'm going to look into something similar.

For the S4, the phaeton ducts work. And surprisingly, being an original VW part, are relatively cheap at about $180 for the front set. Contact Alex @ Europrice.

ECS Tuning-Audi
08-21-2015, 08:39 AM
Glad to hear our rotors are holding up for you!

I will say cooling makes a world of a difference on a track car, as you can clearly see from your test results. I would definitely recommend that anyone who tracks their car at least run something to help direct as much air as possible at the brakes.

Jason

Jimmy ny
08-21-2015, 09:21 AM
I wonder if a aftermarket brembo bbk would be better? In the front only of course.


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musasabi
08-21-2015, 09:34 AM
Sub'd because documentation. =)

AudiYes
08-21-2015, 09:36 AM
Can you make another one of those air ducts

dazed1
08-21-2015, 10:13 AM
I wonder if a aftermarket brembo bbk would be better? In the front only of course.


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Maybe. But why spend 4k? We already get 8 piston calipers. The ECS rotors are cheaper than OEM, and better than OEM.

If we can get better cooling with ducts, it does the job well.

dazed1
08-21-2015, 10:14 AM
Can you make another one of those air ducts

Me, no. :) The shop, probably.

Call Griffin Motorwerke and talk to Curly.

milesed
08-21-2015, 11:02 AM
Where did they find the parts?

Also, how do you remove the rear seat bottoms?

dazed1
08-21-2015, 12:54 PM
Where did they find the parts?

Also, how do you remove the rear seat bottoms?

Parts for the brake duct? They custom fabricated it after making a stencil.

I dont know. It pops out, and you eventually end up breaking the tabs ;o

Tommy@Nemesis
08-21-2015, 02:19 PM
Very nice write up! What kind of weight loss do you do for the track? Do you take the rear seats out? That will save you another 75 lbs(even though its in the rear)

dazed1
08-21-2015, 05:22 PM
Very nice write up! What kind of weight loss do you do for the track? Do you take the rear seats out? That will save you another 75 lbs(even though its in the rear)

Nope. Don't take the rear seats out.
The wheels are lighter, 19lbs vs 27lbs (OEM). Take everything out from the trunk.

But yes, weight loss would cause the biggest gain. This is one fat biatch :)

Tommy@Nemesis
08-21-2015, 06:14 PM
Nope. Don't take the rear seats out.
The wheels are lighter, 19lbs vs 27lbs (OEM). Take everything out from the trunk.

But yes, weight loss would cause the biggest gain. This is one fat biatch :)

Yea but I must say it feels so solid at speed. I drive the lighter more nimble Audis everyday and they are great on the small roads, but you can tell at higher speeds that they are not as "solid" feeling.

My RS feels like a lot to toss around on small local roads, but once your moving and going hard, it points and executes very nicely.

Other than the M4, a lot of cars similar to ours seem to fall in the 3800-4000 lb range...

AudiYes
08-21-2015, 06:50 PM
Yeah imagine this car 600 pounds lighter!

sshah
08-21-2015, 07:14 PM
Get an m4...

dazed1
08-21-2015, 09:16 PM
Get an m4...

Too bad that many members / friends / track folks who've gone from the RS5 to M3/4 don't really like the M on track as much as the RS.

Yes, its lighter. Yes, it has more gizmos to help (HUD, Track timers, etc), but its just not enough fun from what I've heard.

sshah
08-21-2015, 09:24 PM
Too bad that many members / friends / track folks who've gone from the RS5 to M3/4 don't really like the M on track as much as the RS.

Yes, its lighter. Yes, it has more gizmos to help (HUD, Track timers, etc), but its just not enough fun from what I've heard.

I have both and prefer the RS5 for my DD. but the track point is completely not even close to accurate.

LINDW4LL
08-21-2015, 11:03 PM
I have both and prefer the RS5 for my DD. but the track point is completely not even close to accurate.
+1, I don't understand that comment at all.

I've not tracked a new M3/M4, but common sense would dictate that the M4 is far better and more fun on track. ~500lbs lighter, 70+hp advantage, less prone to understeer, etc...)

dazed1
08-21-2015, 11:12 PM
As I said, I've not driven the M3/M4 on track, and was surprised as well with that comment. I thought it would feel better too.
SShah, have you tracked the M4?

GotRS?
08-21-2015, 11:32 PM
+1, I don't understand that comment at all.

I've not tracked a new M3/M4, but common sense would dictate that the M4 is far better and more fun on track. ~500lbs lighter, 70+hp advantage, less prone to understeer, etc...)

70+ advantage? The Gtronic warranty busting add-on? Whatever, the BMW would surely be track favorite.

sshah
08-22-2015, 01:08 AM
Yeah I have an f80 m3 with ceramics. Tracks like a king with 18's on. I love the rs5 a ton but it could have easily been 300 lbs lighter.

Like I said Rs5 is my daily driver and I love itttttt. But the m3 is very raw and outperforms the Rs5 in every which way.

Both my cars are fully modded

Dfw007
08-22-2015, 08:25 AM
Great thread. I'm taking the photo of your duct and giving it to my installer to fab. Any idea the height of the duct from the brake dust shield? Look about 2-3 inches...

I notice you do have SS ECS brake lines, a must for the track as well, the heat and pressure on the lines is not something the oem rubber can handle. I also have the Alu kruez which seems to help a little with stability. Any changes to suspension such as shocks, struts, sways, arms, links? I am considering all of it, when the stock market recovers!

LINDW4LL
08-22-2015, 09:31 AM
70+ advantage? The Gtronic warranty busting add-on? Whatever, the BMW would surely be track favorite.
Yeah, 70hp. RS makes ~350whp stock, M3 makes ~420.

dazed1
08-22-2015, 10:05 AM
Great thread. I'm taking the photo of your duct and giving it to my installer to fab. Any idea the height of the duct from the brake dust shield? Look about 2-3 inches...

I notice you do have SS ECS brake lines, a must for the track as well, the heat and pressure on the lines is not something the oem rubber can handle. I also have the Alu kruez which seems to help a little with stability. Any changes to suspension such as shocks, struts, sways, arms, links? I am considering all of it, when the stock market recovers!

Good eye! Yes, those are the ECS SS lines as well.

I don't have the exact measurements, but it is somewhere between 3-4". You should make a cardboard cutout and put it on the heatsheld with your track wheels. You want to make sure the offset of the wheels doesnt interfere with the duct.

No other mods yet. I've been wanting to do the Alu Kruez, but one thing at a time. The whole purpose of getting brake ducts was to make parts longer and be able to enjoy the hobby without making it a total money pit.

Friend of mine does have adjustable end links + AK from eurotag (or whatever the vendor is). He runs a negative camber of -2 with a proper track alignment. Running 19's with the R888.

drematic
08-28-2015, 12:33 PM
Yeah imagine this car 600 pounds lighter!

Weight is easily the RS5's biggest flaw when it comes to tracking it. The ongoing cost of maintenance makes it almost not worth it. I've been doing it for three years and I am itching to get something significantly lighter.

Weight means increased wear and tear on brake components. Figure at least $1500 for fresh rotors and pads every 12 months. It also limits the selection of good track tires. With a hefty load index of 97/98 you're stuck with XLs and expensive Trofeos or Sport Cup 2s - independent of wheel diameter. No R888 or NTs available for that load and tire width. So figure another $1700-$2000 a year. Everything is more expensive at 4000 lbs.

If you add it all up with labor and regular brake fluid flushes, you're easily looking at ~$5k annually for the privilege of moderately tracking your understeer-prone RS5.

PsYkHoTiK
08-28-2015, 12:59 PM
Hmm...

I somehow missed this thread.

I'm a fellow destroyer of brakes:
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-8gmJXPjMV3IRIEuvDoPEYf-GzRJK2rASKU4dbjF9W0=w1880-h1254-no
Stock rotors glowing red in bright daylight. :)

And I'm not a fan of the stock rotors:
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/7CpbtgyhZwfXdhWz8OZ-asV0lUi4fkD_wBJAYXecOpE=w929-h1253-no

I have actually been running custom made scoops as well. It has helped keep temps down with my aggressive pad choice - Carbotech XP24 for fronts XP12 for rears (Harry's laptimer showed 0.7G of braking lol - on street tires too)

I've modified my suspension and am still in the process of experimenting with alignment settings. Will get track rubber at some point but for now, still using street tires (Michelin PSS). Mainly due to difficulties in finding sizes.

I love my Girodisc front rotors. Really have been taking the abuse well.

drematic
08-28-2015, 02:06 PM
And I'm not a fan of the stock rotors.

That looks awfully familiar... :)



I've modified my suspension and am still in the process of experimenting with alignment settings. Will get track rubber at some point but for now, still using street tires (Michelin PSS). Mainly due to difficulties in finding sizes.


You're on 20" OEMs, right? I think Michelin Sport Cups at 265 are your only viable R option.

I use my 19" OEMs on the track and can fit Trofeo R and Sport Cups. For a while I ran R888s, but it's somewhat dicey with a load index of 94 (3 under OEM). I was perfectly comfortable with it, but some clubs may not tech your car if the load index is under spec. FWIW, I once tracked my 20" street wheels on Pilot Super Sports and didn't like it at all. I think you can do definitely better even if you don't go full R.

Btw, my alignment is a good compromise between track and street and works great on both. Ping me if you're interested in my detailed setup for comparison.

PsYkHoTiK
08-28-2015, 02:18 PM
Yeah, I'm running a fairly aggressive alignment setup as is and looking to go a bit more aggressive.

Need to dig it up later when I'm off work and I'll post it here.

Glad to know there's another owner tracking their RS5!


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drematic
08-29-2015, 08:35 AM
Glad to know there's another owner tracking their RS5!

What tracks do you do? Dazed1 (who started this thread) and I are regularly doing Sonoma, Thunderhill, Laguna Seca and Buttonwillow.


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PsYkHoTiK
08-29-2015, 06:22 PM
What tracks do you do? Dazed1 (who started this thread) and I are regularly doing Sonoma, Thunderhill, Laguna Seca and Buttonwillow.


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I hit the tracks up here (The Ridge Motorsports Park, Oregon Raceway Park, Portland International Raceway). We went to Laguna Seca last year. Planning a trip out next year (waiting for HOD to release their calendar).

dazed1
08-30-2015, 08:41 AM
I hit the tracks up here (The Ridge Motorsports Park, Oregon Raceway Park, Portland International Raceway). We went to Laguna Seca last year. Planning a trip out next year (waiting for HOD to release their calendar).

Do a few with Audi Club. We have the nationals this year @ Sonoma in October.
Its usually:
January - ThunderHill
March - Laguna Seca
May - ThunderHill
October - Sonoma
November - Buttonwillow

We end up doing Sonoma 1-2 times more with HOD. Its close enough (30-45 mins) to do 1 day events.

PsYkHoTiK
08-30-2015, 10:57 AM
Ooh, that's awesome. I run with Audi Club NW (almost all of the track days up here). When is the Nationals?

I like running with HOD in group C with point bys.


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dazed1
08-30-2015, 03:42 PM
Nationals are this October: https://www.motorsportreg.com/index.cfm/event/event.dashboard/uidEvent/7D5BD9D4-ECFE-0367-DA0494A8841EC02D

jamin_00
10-09-2015, 03:15 AM
Another interesting read.

I have now destroyed 2 sets of rotors in less than 6 months tracking. First found out the stock pads were as good as a chocolate teacup. then the stock rotors were about as much use as one too. Got my first set off rotors replaced under warranty believe it or not and went to Ferrodo DS2500 pads so not a too hard compound and they lasted better. 2 trackdays and 2 high speed runway days.

Now have ordered some RS4-2 pads for road use only and some ECS Tuning rotors. Will add some RS29 pads for track use only but pads I expect to burn every 3 or 4 trackdays as track pads are not meant to be long lasting.

Also going to do some mods to have increased airflow to them as i have nothing right now, the S doesn't come with anything so Im going to do what Scott did with the naca duct and place the outlet of the pipe in the best position for air to hit the rotor. Will also fabricate something on the the plate to help grab the air and send it to the rotors.

Cant keep spending after every few trackdays lol as my car outperforms most others on track but my brakes are my biggest downfall!

ak_siberian
10-10-2015, 07:13 PM
You could probably make a set of those air dams from a 3D printer.

siberian

paul.karroum
10-26-2015, 09:27 AM
Very interesting read..Glad I ran across it. Looking forward to the updates.


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Dfw007
10-22-2017, 02:53 PM
I know this thread is old, but I finally got around to sing the air ducts that dazed built. A friend helped me build them. Took lots of trial and error but so far so good. First track day of the fall is coming up, can't wait to see the results. Building you do I can do a two day at cota.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171022/4ec5b34e66ec11b08749bd22406170b2.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171022/5c54b7ccc642b48cfb0b2516208101d2.jpg


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NVMarkus
11-07-2017, 11:35 AM
I️ have a set of Rotora BBK and I️ track a bit at the northern Ca tracks. I️ have really enjoyed the Rotoraís I️ actually am just upgrading to a higher compound for the pads this week. I️ had the stocks on and they warped like so many do with out a track day and couldnít justify spending that $ when I️ one I️ could get an aftermarket setup for a little more. I️ have problems with tires and the understeer for sure. Going to try the Cup 2ís after the winter.
Thinking about suspension next...


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NVMarkus
11-07-2017, 05:14 PM
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171108/6a539350fff00f060b3a1060f2465a66.jpg


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theskunk
12-21-2017, 08:17 AM
This is a really *really* good read - The new RS3 has the same calipers/rotor size as the RS5/R8, and (of course) we're all having brake issues...

I spend a few days a year at Dominion Raceway, VIR, and Summit Point, so braking is KEY with the monstrous 5 cyl turbo.

What pads are you guys running? anybody found something a bit less hurt-y on the wallet than the Pagid's?

Girodisc is coming out with a two piece set for the RS3 (already have it for the TTRS) so that + pads will be the immediate upgrade.

-Rob

Ape Factory
12-23-2017, 07:27 PM
That's nuts y'all are having brake issues...the RS3 is at least 500 pounds lighter than the RS5. Prolly closer to 700! Same 8-piston caliper huh?

FWIW, I'm convinced the RS5 ceramic calipers are the same caliper as the Porsche 19z calipers in a different color with a different decal. Wonder if ECS has plans to adapt their RS5 kit to the RS3. Has 380x38mm rotors. Huge.

theskunk
12-23-2017, 07:51 PM
That's nuts y'all are having brake issues...the RS3 is at least 500 pounds lighter than the RS5. Prolly closer to 700! Same 8-piston caliper huh?

FWIW, I'm convinced the RS5 ceramic calipers are the same caliper as the Porsche 19z calipers in a different color with a different decal. Wonder if ECS has plans to adapt their RS5 kit to the RS3. Has 380x38mm rotors. Huge.

Pretty much! Same 8 Piston Calipers, i need to check the pad part number.

Based on some of these threads, I did find that i can get carbotech XP12 pads on front and XP10 rears.

Iíve already got 380mm steel rotors, not sure of the width, but it will need a different hat to compensate for the correct offset.

Hereís the RS3 setup:
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171224/774f59ea031020bb63655122537c8107.jpg


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dazed1
12-28-2017, 01:11 AM
Iíve been out of this thread for a while. Iíll provide a few more updates later this week. I am waiting on delivery of my RS3, and will be using Pagid pads again.

dannybear
12-28-2017, 02:23 AM
Many of the folks here use the car for track purposes. I wanted to create a thread and use it to gain & share knowledge for what people have done to the car to help.

To start off, I'm not an expert. In fact, this is the first car I've ever tracked. I have approximately 20-25 track days in the last 1.5 years.

I started the car off completely stock for my first track weekend. I found the brakes to be weak. They provided decent bite, but there was fade towards the end of the day. I went ahead and did the initial upgrade, went with Pagid RS29 pads, Motul 660 brake fluid.

I soon found that the rotors would need replacement. The rotors are very soft. For my second set, I went with the OEM rotors again. In a span of 1 year, about 10k miles, I went through 3 sets of rotors.

I had started keeping track of the temperatures of my rotors. I realized that the Pagid's were starting to crumble after about 4 track days. A lot of it seemed to be due to heat. The rotors would get up to anywhere between 700-900*f. I needed a solution. I did have to improve my driving style and get smoother, but I thought that parts needed replacements too. I thought about going to pads that could support higher heat (Hawk DTC 60). But decided a different route.

I first went with the 2 piece ECS rotors as they are supposed to help cool the rotors more. It did help, but not a lot. I also got aggressive in my driving after 1 year being on track. So I cannot compare the exact improvements it may have given. They are cheaper than OEM, so that is extremely helpful. :)

After talking to a few folks at the track who have had heat issues on brakes on their cars (TTRS, S4), I saw their solutions. For the TTRS, it was easier to go with ducting that is offered on the R8 (http://www.r8talk.com/forums/49-wheel-tire-discussion/5737-brake-cooling-scoops-r8-v8.html). Unfortunately, our A arms are not shaped correctly to support it.

Other solution was to use the Phaeton ducts (http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/478789-Phaeton-brake-ducts-on-B5-S4). This works and fits correctly for the S4 and the S5, but not the RS.

I work with an independent shop pretty regularly here in the Bay Area - Griffin Motorwerke (http://www.g-werke.com/), who have been helping me with the car. They were kind enough to get me a set of the R8 ducts and the Phaeton ducts to try, with no cost.

They decided to fabricate something that resembles the Phaeton ducts, as that seemed the best solution to air from the scoop behind the bumper, to the rotors. Our rotor dust shields already have cuts in them to allow additional air. This made it easier.

The end result were these custom fabricated ducts. I dont remember if they're made from aluminium, or steel.

http://i.imgur.com/JCL4Na4.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/3CRoVOz.jpg

Here they are mounted on the car after being painted black:
http://i.imgur.com/PnceSt0.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/fkLAvjD.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/svY9YSw.jpg

Bonus - car :)
http://i.imgur.com/sAXbnyh.jpg

After getting the backing plate put in, I did a track day at Sonoma. I had another AZ member who tracks his car as well. This was a good comparison for me to see how the temps are doing on our cars. He is a very similar driver, our times were within .5 seconds of each other.

I went with softer pads this time as we could not get the Pagid's in time. He was running the Pagid. I was running StopTech pads (don't remember part number).

We were measuring the rotor temps after every session.
His: 700-750*f
Mine: 350-400*f

To say the least, I am extremely pleased with this setup of rotors. I do want to see if I can get pads that have more bite on them, but don't cost $600 for a set. I will try that out probably in January or March of next year. Current set should last me till then.

The other major change I did was switch from the Pirelli's to R compound tires - Toyo Proxies R888. For me, these are strictly track use only. I put them on before I go to the track, and they come off right away.
I had to get another set of wheels for this setup though. I really wanted a set of 18's as the tires would be cheaper.

Off I went to TireRack. I found various 18" wheels that would clear our rotors. Unfortunately I wanted something that was light, and not too expensive (like the BBS CH-R's).
I came across the Tire Rack Motorsport wheel (www.tirerack.com/wheels/WheelCloseUpServlet?target=runWheelSearch&initialPartNumber=MT188535512MG&wheelMake=TRMotorsport&wheelModel=MT1&wheelFinish=Matte+Grey&showRear=no&autoMake=Audi&autoModel=RS+5&autoYear=2013&autoModClar=Standard+Brakes&filterFinish=All&filterSize=18&filterBrand=All&filterSpecial=false&filterNew=All&filterWeight=All&sort=Brand) which seemed to be light enough, 19lbs each, and relatively cheap - about $250 per wheel. I would have loved to get the OZ wheels which were light and affordable, but TR only had 2 wheels in stock.

The only 18" size that was available was 18x8 35ET. I wish I could have had a 8.5" wheel to run a more stiffer sidewall tire.

The tires I ended up with were Toyo Proxies R888 255/35/18 (http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=Toyo&tireModel=Proxes+R888&sidewall=Blackwall&partnum=535YR8R888&tab=Sizes).
I love the grip of the tire. Due to the load rating of the tires + our cars heavy weight, I have to be careful on the temperatures of the tires and play around with pressure to get the optimal temperature rating so as not endanger myself or anyone else on the track.

Here's a few pictures of the wheels. The 18"'s really look tiny on our cars. :)
Edit: I also run spacers with track wheels only. I believe 12.5 H&R on all 4.
http://i.imgur.com/VXIfi76.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/eG4XB5h.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/CYJ2CDD.jpg

Edit:
I also added a set of quick release harness with a custom made seat hoodie to hold the belt in place. Makes a great difference in keeping me well seated.
http://i.imgur.com/WJQhCTk.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/eXgKW3J.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/iGRDSKm.jpg
I have a S6 c7 and track it often. I found the best thing to do is go to RSpec tyres asap (the only I could find in 20's was Continental Conti force contact. IMO R Spec tyres beat any high performance road tyres. they immediately feel different with much hardfer side walls its instantly noticable)
With brakes get the best race brake fluid you can. Change the pads to REAL race pads. Not any of the domestic brands. Find the supplier of brake pads for a race category of heavy cars. In Australia I went directly to the supplier for our V8 supercars being Project Mu (they are also in the USA) and sent them my old backing plates for them to copy (so now anyone can get S6 pads) and supply pads with TRUE race compounds exactly the same as the race pads. Since then I have tracked 5 times with no brake fade and very little wear (230km/hr to 80km/hr hard stops on the limit of ABS and now face).
I have allocated a set of front OEM rotors for track days and simply change front pads/rotors/pads the night before the track day and drive to the track. Takes 1hr to switch over. I previously tried various "race" pads from domestic pad suppliers including and none are close to competing with getting the real thing. To my surprise the true race pads are cheaper and wear my rotors less than my other options. Still get 600deg Celcius on the front rotors but they are fully designed to work in that range and love it. I cant recomend getting real race brake compounds hightly enough.


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theskunk
12-28-2017, 08:49 AM
Do you swap out the rears? or just leave them in a high performance pad full time?

dazed1
12-30-2017, 08:41 AM
Rears did not matter much. I ran stop tech 309 or the OEM pads for the rear. Had to change once for every three changes of the fronts. If I were to do it again, Iíd get girodisc for the front and rear, Castrol srf for the fluid, pagid rs29 for the fronts for track, stop tech 309 for street, and stop tech 309 for the rear.

I did run the ecs stainless steel lines.

theskunk
01-01-2018, 04:06 PM
Should I go ahead and run the SS lines at the same time that I do the SRF?


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Ape Factory
01-01-2018, 05:16 PM
Should I go ahead and run the SS lines at the same time that I do the SRF?


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From a labor standpoint, it makes a lot of sense to swap out the fluid when you swap out the lines. Once you crack that bottle of brake fluid, it doesn't keep long once exposed to air. Plus bleeding the brakes can be tedious (especially if you're the least bit OCD) so I'd avoid having to do it twice.