Help! License Plate Bulb Burnt Out - Replaced and still not working

[spennyb7]

Hey all,
I've researched and searched all over and can't seem to find a legitimate answer to this issue...So here is the issue:

I've had a burnt out license plate bulb for about a week, bought a pair of standard bulbs (NOT LEDs), and replaced the burnt out side....still nothing...so I took the "good" and working bulb side out and checked it out to compare to the bad one, put that one back in tight and IT DIDN'T WORK EITHER. Now both the lights do not work. Both have good bulbs.

The left one shows a good deal of rusting on the metal connector on the license plate cap that I took out, but nothing keeping it from making a good connection.

Any thoughts?! Will the Ziza LED replacements fix this issue? (ECSTuning).

[spennyb7]

If I have missed a DIY or thread somewhere that covers this, please don't hesitate to share it. I'd like to keep my standard lights, but willing to do LED if I really have to.

Thanks for your time!

[nross33]

If I have missed a DIY or thread somewhere that covers this, please don't hesitate to share it. I'd like to keep my standard lights, but willing to do LED if I really have to.

Thanks for your time!

I bought some LED's on eBay, it was the two whole assemblies, I assumed the would be plug and play but they still did not work. I still to this day don't know why. I asked my mechanic to pop them in for me when I got an oil change and whatever he did made them work.

[i3oricua]

If I have missed a DIY or thread somewhere that covers this, please don't hesitate to share it. I'd like to keep my standard lights, but willing to do LED if I really have to.

Thanks for your time!

I'd like to hear an answer to this. The one on my drivers side does not work and I've changed the bulbs and housing.

[mtroxel]

When one won't light and the other will, the location of the problem is pretty obvious. You're getting 12 volts to the trunk and one of the sockets isn't getting 12 volts. So LED's won't solve a thing. Get a multi-meter and start testing your connections. The problem is all right in the back and no one here can help. Take it apart back there and find your bad connection.

[spennyb7]

When one won't light and the other will, the location of the problem is pretty obvious. You're getting 12 volts to the trunk and one of the sockets isn't getting 12 volts. So LED's won't solve a thing. Get a multi-meter and start testing your connections. The problem is all right in the back and no one here can help. Take it apart back there and find your bad connection.

Alright [up] Thanks for the straight forward answer! I'll do some testing and see where the issue is.

Is there a safety feature that shuts off the power to the back when you unplug both lights at once? Because I don't understand why the one will not work anymore when all I did was unplug it and plug it back in.

[i3oricua]

When one won't light and the other will, the location of the problem is pretty obvious. You're getting 12 volts to the trunk and one of the sockets isn't getting 12 volts. So LED's won't solve a thing. Get a multi-meter and start testing your connections. The problem is all right in the back and no one here can help. Take it apart back there and find your bad connection.

Hate to say but the answer is not that obvious. These lights should be wired in parallel and only one is functioning. Will I test it as you stated? Yes. Does not mean the answer will pop out at us nor does it mean that the root of the problem lies in the trunk.


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[papadelogan]

I see you live in PA, so I'd be thinking corrosion could be part of your issue. I'm from MD originally, and for ANY electrical connection, I got in the habit of cleaning the contact points. The contact pads up inside will be tough, and be careful of your paint, but I think at least one of your steps (along with the multimeter testing) should include making sure you have good electrical contact. Some 200 or 400 grit sandpaper on the housing contact points should do the trick.

To rule out the housing, get 2 loose wires (spare speaker wire works well) and put a known good bulb in a housing and wire it directly to the battery. Simple, effective test to see if the housing is the issue.

For long-term corrosion protection that won't impede current, some Naolox (Home Depot carries it) on your electrical connections will keep moisture out.


I went with ZIZA brand license plate lights and love them. One burnt out but a simple call to ECS got a new set shipped out and to me in a few days. I'm thinking about doing the whole car kit for the interior as well. USP Motorsports also carries a full kit (Clickety-click (http://www.uspmotorsports.com/Audi--A4--B7--05.5-2008--2.0T-FSI--Quattro/Lighting/LED-Lighting/)) as well for sedans & Avants.

[spennyb7]

I see you live in PA, so I'd be thinking corrosion could be part of your issue. I'm from MD originally, and for ANY electrical connection, I got in the habit of cleaning the contact points. The contact pads up inside will be tough, and be careful of your paint, but I think at least one of your steps (along with the multimeter testing) should include making sure you have good electrical contact. Some 200 or 400 grit sandpaper on the housing contact points should do the trick.

To rule out the housing, get 2 loose wires (spare speaker wire works well) and put a known good bulb in a housing and wire it directly to the battery. Simple, effective test to see if the housing is the issue.

For long-term corrosion protection that won't impede current, some Naolox (Home Depot carries it) on your electrical connections will keep moisture out.


I went with ZIZA brand license plate lights and love them. One burnt out but a simple call to ECS got a new set shipped out and to me in a few days. I'm thinking about doing the whole car kit for the interior as well. USP Motorsports also carries a full kit (Clickety-click (http://www.uspmotorsports.com/Audi--A4--B7--05.5-2008--2.0T-FSI--Quattro/Lighting/LED-Lighting/)) as well for sedans & Avants.

Awesome! Thanks for the information. I'll take some sandpaper to the contacts to see if that fixes it. I am hopeful because I do see some rusting on the housing that was not working for a few weeks...also some corrosion I guess on the contacts.

[spennyb7]

I tried sanding the contacts...looks like some serious corrosion on the actual connectors that retain the bulb. Sanded it down really good so the metal was shining, but there is still slight corrosion. Still no working lights. I cleaned/sanded the contacts on the trunk lid and that didn't fix it either. I'll be grabbing a voltmeter tonight and will test the connectors when I can.

This is really freakin annoying. This is the first time I've dealt with a lighting issue (specifically the license plate bulbs). Why the heck are they such a pain.

What are the options when the voltmeter comes back as good? (12v to each side?) What are the next steps if the voltage is no good on either side? Pardon my ignorance, couldn't find specific answers.

[mtroxel]

What are the options when the voltmeter comes back as good? (12v to each side?) What are the next steps if the voltage is no good on either side? Pardon my ignorance, couldn't find specific answers.

If you get 12v to each bulb holder and still don't have light, you either:


Have bad bulbs
Good bulbs that aren't making good contact


That's it. No other options.

[papadelogan]

What's your time worth? Honestly I'd make sure you are getting 12V to the contacts in the trunk, then order some LED replacements and be done with it. While you're at it, try and find some stainless steel screws to replace the stockers. Ace Hardware is probably your best option.

[fly300kts]

Take a look at my DIY, especially at the 13th picture.
Your contacts might be melted, common issue on the B7. Follow the DIY to remove the assembly and figure out what is going on

http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/407730-Licence-Plate-LED-Review-amp-Problem-Solution?highlight=licence

Phil

[i3oricua]

Thanks Phil. I disassembled most of that today and saw that the housing was melted. I don't believe I'll need a resistor since I have the error free bulbs. Perhaps I could get away with just soldering one wire between both contacts to bridge the connection?


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[fly300kts]

Thanks Phil. I disassembled most of that today and saw that the housing was melted. I don't believe I'll need a resistor since I have the error free bulbs. Perhaps I could get away with just soldering one wire between both contacts to bridge the connection?


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Yes, I just provided the DIY to show you what could be the culprit, no resistor needed indeed.
You need to make sure you have a good contact and adding wire can be a solution or simply replace the part

Phil

[fly300kts]

Thanks Phil. I disassembled most of that today and saw that the housing was melted. I don't believe I'll need a resistor since I have the error free bulbs. Perhaps I could get away with just soldering one wire between both contacts to bridge the connection?


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Yes, I just provided the DIY to show you what could be the culprit, no resistor needed indeed.
You need to make sure you have a good contact and adding wire can be a solution or simply replace the part

Phil

[skeech08]

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/07/06/40778f0ee4371d180fb21f4c3e239fcb.jpghttp://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/07/06/387cb0b26da9d439a4ce06963d5ffa4e.jpghttp://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/07/06/8b0e52cf499ed118161567386f961b17.jpghttp://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/07/06/40e6335b0323a97cb98b285ad55c2a33.jpghttp://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/07/06/69eb5e9f846096b8c10af000bb6a01e5.jpg


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[skeech08]

Apparently tapatalk was logged into my other account that I forgot my login information to? Lol those pictures are from my car (spennyb7).

Tested the contacts, both show above 13V with the light switch on and car running. Turned switch off and car off and measured around 11V (?). Not sure if that's what's supposed to happen. Put both lights back in and NOW THE RIGHT SIDE WORKS! So I know they are getting power. If you look at the left one, it is completely toasted. I'm gonna try and find a replacement for that side and also find two new screws to replace the stripped ones in there now.


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[skeech08]

Neither side is melted at the contacts, nor overly corroded. They are fairly clean on the trunk.

Also wanted to mention and scanned my car for codes, obviously found none, but "cleared codes" anyway just in case something was stored. I feel this has nothing to do with the situation, just wanted to write down everything that I did.


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[spennyb7]

Now back on the computer on my new account haha my plan is to get new screws in hopes that maybe the left side is not being tightened down enough to make good contact because the screw is stripped pretty badly. If that doesn't work, then I'll source a used/new license plate carrier and see if that does the trick.

Now that I know I have power, the solution is going to be simpler...hopefully.

[IKE20VA4]

Now back on the computer on my new account haha my plan is to get new screws in hopes that maybe the left side is not being tightened down enough to make good contact because the screw is stripped pretty badly. If that doesn't work, then I'll source a used/new license plate carrier and see if that does the trick.

Now that I know I have power, the solution is going to be simpler...hopefully.

Let me know if you figure out what size screw to use or if you get a part #! My passenger side screw head is stripped out and I'm afraid to mess with it unless I have a new one.

[spennyb7]

Let me know if you figure out what size screw to use or if you get a part #! My passenger side screw head is stripped out and I'm afraid to mess with it unless I have a new one.

Best I could find is M3 x 10mm, found it in this thread by googling:

http://www.audiworld.com/forums/a4-b6-platform-discussion-34/license-plate-light-screw-size-m3-x-10mm-posting-future-searches-2382539/

I'm going to snag a pair of these on my way home today and see if that doesn't solve it. If not, then I'll probably end up ordering the drop-in LED ones from ECStuning:

http://www.ecstuning.com/Audi-B7_A4-Quattro-2.0T/Lighting/License_Plate/ES2526327/

The dealer wants $46.38 for the driver side license plate assembly [facepalm][headbang]

[skeech08]

Problem solved! Sanded and filed the corrosion off of the contacts on the bulb assembly, correctly bent them so they made tight contact with the trunk, and put two new screws in to hold them down tight.

I ended up finding M4 x 3/8" stainless screws that worked perfectly for me. They are slightly larger (obviously) than the aforementioned M3 screws. But they fit the assembly and now I have spares in the trunk [up]

Thanks everyone for their help on this!

(The left is yellower/darker because it has the rusty/darkened assembly plastic from the previous bulb, we'll see how long this fix lasts)

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/07/06/c39b8b983b3064d8ab5db8a1d0f630c1.jpg




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