Manifold Removal

[polarpeak]

Hi,

I've never worked on a car before, aside from changing tires and am attempting to carbon clean by 06 A4 B7. I have the inside all dismantled but I can't for the life of me get get the intake manifold off. It keeps catching on a hard line (coolant or oil) for the turbo or something? It's the black one in this picture:

http://i366.photobucket.com/albums/oo109/jimrobbington/carbon%20cleaning/P1030693.jpg

The skinny black tube hard line that attaches to the soft line near that bracket in the middle bottom of the picture:

http://i678.photobucket.com/albums/vv148/papadelogan/audi/B7A4_tech/IMG_3659.jpg

I'd disconnect it but I don't know what it really is, and the attachment ring is facing an awkward direction to get a tool on it!

Thanks for any help!

Cheers.

[redbat]

That's a coolant line, I believe. Follow it down below the throttle body and you'll see that it's held in place by a bracket. Remove the screw and you'll get the wiggle room you need to pull the IM out. It's super tight, but it can be done.

Edit: You'll also need to move that coolant line in order to remove the screw on the far left of the IM.

[polarpeak]

I'm following the STaSIS DIY.

http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/454454-B7-A4-Turbo-Intake-Manifold-Removal-(STaSIS-DIY-PDF)?p=7022702#post7022702

[polarpeak]

That's a coolant line, I believe. Follow it down below the throttle body and you'll see that it's held in place by a bracket. Remove the screw and you'll get the wiggle room you need to pull the IM out. It's super tight, but it can be done.

I guess I should have mentioned I already removed it from the manifold and bracket. It wiggles plenty but I still need about a half inch but it is getting stuck on the round thing with all the wiggly copper wires in it. Thanks for the feedback though!

[redbat]

I guess I should have mentioned I already removed it from the manifold and bracket. It wiggles plenty but I still need about a half inch but it is getting stuck on the round thing with all the wiggly copper wires in it. Thanks for the feedback though!

That's your alternator, FYI. I found that I really needed to work that hard coolant line to get it to stand off from the bracket point enough to get the IM out. It's not easy, but if you keep working it, it'll come out eventually. It took me something like 30 minutes to get it out the first time. You're also dealing with injectors that are stuck pretty good into both the cylinders and the IM, so the first time is the hardest.

Edit: Don't try to remove that attachment point connected to the alternator - I'm reasonably certain that those 3 bolts holding it on are integral to keeping the alternator on the belt, and you probably don't want to deal with that at the moment.

[polarpeak]

That's your alternator, FYI. I found that I really needed to work that hard coolant line to get it to stand off from the bracket point enough to get the IM out. It's not easy, but if you keep working it, it'll come out eventually. It took me something like 30 minutes to get it out the first time. You're also dealing with injectors that are stuck pretty good into both the cylinders and the IM, so the first time is the hardest.

Edit: Don't try to remove that attachment point connected to the alternator - I'm reasonably certain that those 3 bolts holding it on are integral to keeping the alternator on the belt, and you probably don't want to deal with that at the moment.

Good to know as that did cross my mind though it did look like they were doing more than holding a bracket! I just need to find another half inch and it should come off. Everything else is loose. This took way longer than I thought but I guess as a first foray into a vehicle that is to be expected. I am going to leave it for the night and hopefully shimmy it off tomorrow.

Thanks for the help!!!

[redbat]

No problem. A few more things I just remembered that helped during my ordeal:

1) I used 2 bungee cords to help keep stuff out of the way. 1 attached to the bracket on the large metal charge pipe on top of the IM - the other end hooked onto the hood latch mechanism up above. This pulls it up a bit and gets it out of the way. If your strut is decent, it should hold just fine. The second bungee cord was attached to the annoying coolant pipe that's in the way - the one attached to the soft line that across the front of the engine by the grill. I hooked the other end to one of the holes on top of the bumper - this moved that pipe toward the grille and held it there. These kept those things mostly out of the way, but more importantly, allowed me to use both hands to wrestle with the IM without fear of bending or breaking anything (much).

2) You took the high pressure fuel pump off, right? I thought I could get away with not doing that, but removing it made everything much easier. With that removed, you'll have enough clearance to start pulling the IM back and up from that side, and once a few injectors are loosened, it makes getting the end closest to the grill easier to remove.

Good luck!

[polarpeak]

No problem. A few more things I just remembered that helped during my ordeal:

1) I used 2 bungee cords to help keep stuff out of the way. 1 attached to the bracket on the large metal charge pipe on top of the IM - the other end hooked onto the hood latch mechanism up above. This pulls it up a bit and gets it out of the way. If your strut is decent, it should hold just fine. The second bungee cord was attached to the annoying coolant pipe that's in the way - the one attached to the soft line that across the front of the engine by the grill. I hooked the other end to one of the holes on top of the bumper - this moved that pipe toward the grille and held it there. These kept those things mostly out of the way, but more importantly, allowed me to use both hands to wrestle with the IM without fear of bending or breaking anything (much).

2) You took the high pressure fuel pump off, right? I thought I could get away with not doing that, but removing it made everything much easier. With that removed, you'll have enough clearance to start pulling the IM back and up from that side, and once a few injectors are loosened, it makes getting the end closest to the grill easier to remove.

Good luck!

Thank you!!! Your advice was critical! I managed to remove the manifold but the carbon build up was not nearly as severe as I was expecting. I have been reading about the cam follower issues so figure I will replace mine while I'm at it as the car has 134,000 km on it, was new to me at 126,000 km.

I pulled out the cam follower and to my horror there is a giant hole in it. I'll have to read more about the ramifications of this finding but from what I've read the metal shavings likely chewed up the cam shaft and that might need replacing? I can't believe my mechanic didn't check this when I took it in for a CEL and rough idle and random misfires. I guess it was at least the cam follower and not the carbon build up causing the issue.

http://i58.tinypic.com/vosd1t.jpg

[Biged243]

Sorry it would have been better if it was carbon build up. I am sorry about your findings. There is a tsb on this issue and it will be replaced by Audi, however I don't know if the same applies for Canada. I think it does.

[B72011]

Another victim.....the list grows with each day. You already have the IM off.....just pull the head off and get a new camshaft. And while you're at it please make a DIY on how to do the job.





Thank you!!! Your advice was critical! I managed to remove the manifold but the carbon build up was not nearly as severe as I was expecting. I have been reading about the cam follower issues so figure I will replace mine while I'm at it as the car has 134,000 km on it, was new to me at 126,000 km.

I pulled out the cam follower and to my horror there is a giant hole in it. I'll have to read more about the ramifications of this finding but from what I've read the metal shavings likely chewed up the cam shaft and that might need replacing? I can't believe my mechanic didn't check this when I took it in for a CEL and rough idle and random misfires. I guess it was at least the cam follower and not the carbon build up causing the issue.

http://i58.tinypic.com/vosd1t.jpg

[redbat]

Thank you!!! Your advice was critical! I managed to remove the manifold but the carbon build up was not nearly as severe as I was expecting. I have been reading about the cam follower issues so figure I will replace mine while I'm at it as the car has 134,000 km on it, was new to me at 126,000 km.

I pulled out the cam follower and to my horror there is a giant hole in it. I'll have to read more about the ramifications of this finding but from what I've read the metal shavings likely chewed up the cam shaft and that might need replacing? I can't believe my mechanic didn't check this when I took it in for a CEL and rough idle and random misfires. I guess it was at least the cam follower and not the carbon build up causing the issue.


Glad you got it! That's about what my cam follower looked like as well.

If you've got an '06 you're probably still under the extended warranty for the cam follower - I believe the mileage cutoff is 192,000 km up there. If it was me, I would put the old cam follower back in the hpfp, drive it to the closest dealership and tell them you want them to manually check for a holed cam follower. They will not want to do this without seeing certain codes from the car, but they should do it if you tell them you'll cover the labor if there is NOT a hole in the follower.

If you're uncomfortable driving the car with the holed cam follower (mine was ok to drive), you could always get it towed. In my opinion, it'd be worth it for the peace of mind you'll get from getting a new camshaft, hpfp and cam follower for free.

[billyhoyle]

Glad you got it! That's about what my cam follower looked like as well.

If you've got an '06 you're probably still under the extended warranty for the cam follower - I believe the mileage cutoff is 192,000 km up there. If it was me, I would put the old cam follower back in the hpfp, drive it to the closest dealership and tell them you want them to manually check for a holed cam follower. They will not want to do this without seeing certain codes from the car, but they should do it if you tell them you'll cover the labor if there is NOT a hole in the follower.

If you're uncomfortable driving the car with the holed cam follower (mine was ok to drive), you could always get it towed. In my opinion, it'd be worth it for the peace of mind you'll get from getting a new camshaft, hpfp and cam follower for free.

Correct about the mileage and the advice. The cut off up here is 10 years, 192k, but does anyone know if that's 10 years from the build date or the date of purchase (or something else)?

[redbat]

Correct about the mileage and the advice. The cut off up here is 10 years, 192k, but does anyone know if that's 10 years from the build date or the date of purchase (or something else)?

10 years from the first DELIVERY DATE for the first owner. Not the production date. I know this because my dealership wanted to deny my coverage because I was a DAY past the production date. Supervisor confirmed it was the delivery date, so I was covered. Dealer should have this info when they pull up the VIN.

[billyhoyle]

10 years from the first DELIVERY DATE for the first owner. Not the production date. I know this because my dealership wanted to deny my coverage because I was a DAY past the production date. Supervisor confirmed it was the delivery date, so I was covered. Dealer should have this info when they pull up the VIN.

Cool, thanks. I've always wondered!

[polarpeak]

Thanks, that is a relief! I went to go turn it on this morning after putting the manifold back on and at first it wouldn't start but eventually did for 2 seconds then died right away. At this point I noticed a lot of fuel was running down below the manifold near one of the fuel injectors. So I took it all apart, it looks like the blue O ring didn't seat properly? and the metal guide was really bent as seen in this picture... it snapped off when I tried to bend it back a bit, the metal guide on the opposite end looks kind of bent and ready to break off also. These just seem like guides and not critical to the manifold integrity so I'm hoping if I line up the break, like you would with a clay vase, the fit should still be the same once everything is cinched back up?

http://i59.tinypic.com/ibgfue.jpg


There was also some oil in the big ass air hose connected to the throttle valve control module that connects to the drivers side intercooler? Not sure where that would be coming from. I haven't had any oil issues since I bought the car.

[GreggPDX]

As long as you get the spacer lined up correctly, it should be fine. You might want to use something like JB Weld to hold it together to make re-assembly easier. Regarding the oil, I think that's pretty normal. I just took mine apart to do carbon cleaning, and I had a film of oil on that hose as well.

[redbat]

Thanks, that is a relief! I went to go turn it on this morning after putting the manifold back on and at first it wouldn't start but eventually did for 2 seconds then died right away. At this point I noticed a lot of fuel was running down below the manifold near one of the fuel injectors. So I took it all apart, it looks like the blue O ring didn't seat properly? and the metal guide was really bent as seen in this picture... it snapped off when I tried to bend it back a bit, the metal guide on the opposite end looks kind of bent and ready to break off also. These just seem like guides and not critical to the manifold integrity so I'm hoping if I line up the break, like you would with a clay vase, the fit should still be the same once everything is cinched back up?

That IS just a guide for the screw, you can just leave it loose and it'll do its job when you torque the screw down again.

Are you sure the fuel is coming from under the manifold and not from the hpfp? I've got the banjo bolt on mine and I had to practically rip my arm off to tighten it enough to get fuel to stop leaking after putting it back together.

Also, you might want to a) make sure you put the runners back in the right way (they should be flush, not sticking out, ask me how I know this [rolleyes]), and b) make sure you run a finger around the gasket right before you put it back on to make sure it's in the right spot all the way around - mine wasn't seated properly the first time I took the manifold off, and it wouldn't run right after my first attempt at starting after buttoning everything back up.

[polarpeak]

I forgot a blue O ring, oops, even after all the warnings about blue O rings haha. It started well this time on the second attempt at turning it on, idled at 1200 for a while then dropped down to 800 after a minute or so. I turned it off after a couple minutes because I could hear an obvious kind of grinding noise coming from inside the engine / cam shaft area? Perhaps I damaged the cam follower some more and it's doing it's worst. At least fuel wasn't spraying everywhere! I'm hoping it makes it to the dealership and they can figure it out haha

[Sanjman]

Best thing to do is get it welded back. Can you find a welder to come by your house? JB weld is a good alternative

[polarpeak]

Best thing to do is get it welded back. Can you find a welder to come by your house? JB weld is a good alternative

The dealer says I have a bunch of parts under extended warranty (PVC, Intake Mani, Cam Follower etc..) I just want the cam follower "checked" because I know there is a hole in it and they said they won't do it without the code. I said I'm 95% sure that's the problem and they said it doesn't matter. I don't have VAG-COM and I don't know if I have the right CEL code to get them to check it, and I don't want an expensive bill right now. I argued for a while and they don't have any openings until the end of July and then they are going to run a "diagnostics" not check my follower.

I just put it back together with the now 2 busted alignment pipes. It was so much easier to get the manifold back on with those things already waiting on the bolt things. Lined them up and everything seems to be working well now. Took it on a fairly spirited drive. I'll post up some more pictures when I get a chance.