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View Full Version : Anyone know the problem of my sunroof?



Neo1130
09-28-2005, 04:21 PM
Every now and then I will try to open the sun roof on for it not to work... Fuse's are good, and I am sure the motor is good and all too... I believe it has to do with the switch... It will not work unless I try a time or two... Any suggestions? I did a resistance check of the switch in different settings but all looked clean and smooth...

offroader1006
09-28-2005, 07:40 PM
resistance check wont tell you anything on a switch, a multimeter only flows a few millivolts through the switch, which wouldnt show any kind of resistance, but when it has to flow 12v's it will.

you need to perform a voltage drop on the switch, which means you probe the wires on each side and hit it with everything hooked up normal, it should show close to zero, if its over 250mV's its bad, probably pitted.

BranCKY3
09-28-2005, 10:11 PM
Mine does the same thing sometimes. Just move the switch one notch over then back, should work.

A4ed
09-28-2005, 11:36 PM
The same thing happens to mine, except sometimes, it will open into the vent position while the switch is in the closed position. It doesn't really bother me right now when the weather is warm, but it will suck once it starts raining.

JMG
09-29-2005, 01:41 AM
I've read os some people cleaning the contacts.

atwalker6
09-29-2005, 11:14 AM
mine makes a horrible cracking sound....lol

lude2euroa4
09-29-2005, 11:42 AM
my sunroof is funny, once in a while when it is fully back(all the way to the lelft) and i try to pput it in the vent position(all the way to the right....

it will close like its in the middle position and move all the way back... it freaked me out the first time but rarely does it.

Neo1130
09-29-2005, 12:16 PM
Originally posted by offroader1006
resistance check wont tell you anything on a switch, a multimeter only flows a few millivolts through the switch, which wouldnt show any kind of resistance, but when it has to flow 12v's it will.

you need to perform a voltage drop on the switch, which means you probe the wires on each side and hit it with everything hooked up normal, it should show close to zero, if its over 250mV's its bad, probably pitted.

Actually yes, it will... And it isn't a few millivolts... It is more like 1.5V to be exact... Take another multimeter and test the output when you are in the "resistance mode." Looks like you have a lot of catching up to do on your electronic test equipment! Plus with the resistance check I was pretty much doing the same thing you are thinking with the votage drop, as resistance goes up, voltage goes down... Let's just say one of my side jobs besides a radar tech is also calibrating electronc test equipment...

jent
09-29-2005, 02:48 PM
same issue here, I am quite sure it is the switch. I am going to replace it but with the almost 100$ tag for a switch (online price) I just going to wait till it drives me crazy.

lude2euroa4
09-29-2005, 02:51 PM
yeah and the switches the paint gets all chipped off!

jent
09-29-2005, 02:54 PM
Originally posted by lude2euroa4
yeah and the switches the paint gets all chipped off!
Ha, and if I rember right that price does not include the part you see....just the switch its self

RippleChip
09-30-2005, 05:25 AM
Mine went all crazy, would swing the switch to the closed position and it wouldn't move. Would have to play around with it to get it to close properly. Switch was replaced by the dealer under warranty.