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View Full Version : God dame exhaust leaking again!!!!!



RedRocket
09-28-2005, 08:32 AM
So last Saturday I changed over the Exhaust manifold and turbo charger with new units.

Replaced the exhaust manifold gasket and put new nuts.

Replaced the Exhaust manifold to turbo gasket and studs. Used red thread-lock, and a locking plate.

Replaced the Turbo to cat gasket, studs, and nuts but did not used thread-lock on those nuts.

Now, 3 days later the fluttering had began AGAIN@@@@!!!!! AHJHHHHHHHHHHHH!!!!!!

I'm going nuts now. What the hell do I have to do to have a car that does not leak exhaust gasses where I need them?

I guess I will tighten and lock the turbo to cat nuts? Sheish.....

MR VTEC
09-28-2005, 08:36 AM
torque'em down

RedRocket
09-28-2005, 09:05 AM
Ya I will. What the best tool to reach there. I have a milltek Cat and I don't know if the bends in it are worst than the stock one but that bottom is tough to torque down with a shitty standard universal joint. I think I will buy a 14mm universal socket...

Daft
09-28-2005, 10:35 AM
Any time I remove an exhaust manifold bolt, I always use this process for re-tightening them:

1. torque bolt to factory spec.

2. start motor and run until normal temp is reached.

3. re-torque bolt to factory spec. (bolt will snug a little more)

By doing this, you are tightening them after thermal expansion has occured on the metal and they won't have any where to go when the bolt heats up next time.

RedRocket
09-28-2005, 10:55 AM
Daft does that apply to only the exhaust manifold bolts, I guess it would do good for all exhaust related bolts correct?

Daft
09-28-2005, 01:37 PM
This trick will work well on any bolts that experience extreme thermal changes. So it can be used on manifolds, turbine housings, downpipes etc...

Items that are far past the turbo like the main exhaust pipes won't really need this much torqing.

juju4uofa
09-28-2005, 02:13 PM
I think for cursing God, you deserve an exhaust leak. Not to mention you can't even spell the curse word your were trying to use.

Skibos18T
09-28-2005, 02:19 PM
yo i want a hi flow cat but im worried bout havin a cel ... do u have a cell and also do u see a big improvement with a hi flow

RedRocket
09-28-2005, 02:21 PM
^^^^
Wow, I think you need to take the dildo out of your ass just a bit. Oops I spelt Damn wrong.
"God Damn" is an expression. Why are you being so anal?

Don't act like you never made a spelling mistake in your life either.

look at JujuAnus' biography. He doesn't even know how to spell the name of the God damn car he owns.

Enjoy Dickhead.


juju4uofa biography LMAO!
I'm currently an engineering student at The University of Alabama. I'm fairly new to the Ausi world, and so far I love it. I'm looking for any ways possible to earn mod money, but being in school makes it difficult.

RedRocket
09-28-2005, 02:25 PM
Originally posted by Skibos18T
yo i want a hi flow cat but im worried bout havin a cel ... do u have a cell and also do u see a big improvement with a hi flow

How did you know I have a hi-flow cat? Ummm.... God Damn I can't remember, oh ya I got the God Damn Milltek cat. No CELs. It's a "legit" hi-flow unit,meaning, it's not gutted, or tiny like the techtonics tuning one. It's God Damn expensive too. Got it used for 500 US. I've passed the God Damn emmisions test with it twice already too. i have nothing to compare it too, but it sure made the turbo spool up like a bastard.

fouroheight68
09-28-2005, 02:28 PM
well god damn that just sucks goddamnit. I hate god damn exhaust leaks. Bastards.

Skibos18T
09-28-2005, 03:05 PM
hahahha well god damn im gonna have to get a miltek hi flow

bitterchild
09-28-2005, 03:39 PM
where is the leak? if it is from the turbo to manifold, you may have a warped surface on either the turbo inlet flange or the manifold-turbo flange. In that case you either need to machine it or use some good fasteners and retorque as daft mentioned.

DDQ
09-28-2005, 03:49 PM
Originally posted by juju4uofa
I think for cursing God, you deserve an exhaust leak. Not to mention you can't even spell the curse word your were trying to use.

There is no god. Just giving you a heads up before a priest touches your pee-pee.

Hassmeister
09-28-2005, 04:25 PM
Originally posted by RedRocket
So last Saturday I changed over the Exhaust manifold and turbo charger with new units.

Replaced the exhaust manifold gasket and put new nuts.

Replaced the Exhaust manifold to turbo gasket and studs. Used red thread-lock, and a locking plate.

Replaced the Turbo to cat gasket, studs, and nuts but did not used thread-lock on those nuts.

Now, 3 days later the fluttering had began AGAIN@@@@!!!!! AHJHHHHHHHHHHHH!!!!!!

I'm going nuts now. What the hell do I have to do to have a car that does not leak exhaust gasses where I need them?

I guess I will tighten and lock the turbo to cat nuts? Sheish.....

It's never easy is it?

juju4uofa
09-28-2005, 07:45 PM
Wow, you really did your research checking out my profile and all. I'll give it to you it's pretty funny the only word I misspell is the car I own.

It's cool if you guys don't beleive in anything, this is not a religion forum. I just wish you'd respect the other's that do.

RedRocket
09-28-2005, 07:58 PM
At least you're a good sport Juju. You're right it's not a religion forum, and it's the same respect to allow others to speak about religion the way they wish to. Sorry for offending you but I will not change the way I speak because of that.

diegomatrix
09-28-2005, 08:00 PM
Originally posted by juju4uofa
Wow, you really did your research checking out my profile and all. I'll give it to you it's pretty funny the only word I misspell is the car I own.

It's cool if you guys don't beleive in anything, this is not a religion forum. I just wish you'd respect the other's that do.

seriously.....who ever said they were talking about YOUR god?? my god is jessica alba..

lighten up....you're the one at fault for interpreting someone else's statement wrong...adding in a religious factor to it...
it was used as a figment of speech that has lost all religious conotations to it..

Saturnine
09-28-2005, 09:17 PM
Just make sure to retighten the bolts AFTER the engine has cooled down.. You can screw up the bolts if they are still hot/warm etc while torquing them down..


Originally posted by Daft
Any time I remove an exhaust manifold bolt, I always use this process for re-tightening them:

1. torque bolt to factory spec.

2. start motor and run until normal temp is reached.

3. re-torque bolt to factory spec. (bolt will snug a little more)

By doing this, you are tightening them after thermal expansion has occured on the metal and they won't have any where to go when the bolt heats up next time.

juju4uofa
09-29-2005, 04:31 AM
Alright enough of this and back to cars. I know I've got to realize theres going to be a mulititude of different opinions on a forum. I just get easily offended when it comes to releigion. I'll get over it though.

Good luck fixing the exhasut leak. I'm not real sure what setup your running, but looking forward to hearing some numbers.

94jedi
09-29-2005, 04:41 AM
Originally posted by juju4uofa
Alright enough of this and back to cars. I know I've got to realize theres going to be a mulititude of different opinions on a forum. I just get easily offended when it comes to releigion. I'll get over it though.

Good luck fixing the exhasut leak. I'm not real sure what setup your running, but looking forward to hearing some numbers.

He's running a K04 and a kinetic ms manifold.

Daft
09-29-2005, 06:29 AM
Originally posted by DDQ
There is no god. Just giving you a heads up before a priest touches your pee-pee.



BWAHAHAH!!! LMAO!

Daft
09-29-2005, 06:34 AM
Originally posted by Saturnine
Just make sure to retighten the bolts AFTER the engine has cooled down.. You can screw up the bolts if they are still hot/warm etc while torquing them down..

That's just my point though, when the bolts cool off the metal contracts again and it's no different than torquing them down they way he did already.

I used this trick about 100 times over the last 8-9 years and I've never seen a bolt break/strip/warp.

When I said to torque them down after reaching normal temp, I meant to do it while they are still hot. They will not shake loose on their own after that (and yes they come off properly if you need to remove them....).

RedRocket
09-29-2005, 07:53 AM
Daft and Saturnine I think you guys are both right. Funny thing is, I once broke one of those mani to turbo studs and it was not a good situation at all. Ended up welding the K04 to the mani. (stupid decision)

I think I'm going to let them get up to temp try again. Mind you I'm not sure if the last bolts were the right kind. I got these ones from Kinetic MS and they are for this exact application. I'll cross my fingers and do it tonight.

Thanks

EuroA4
09-29-2005, 10:17 AM
I have the same manifold and KO4...and have the same problem with loosening bolts. If you follow Daft's tightening procedure that should work.

My problem now is I have a shorter bolt on the inside mani-turbo position...and I want to replace it because its too short by 2mm or so...but I don't want to have to take off the whole exhaust manifold. I don't think I'm gonna have a choice though :(

It sucks because the car starts to leak and you quickly loose 2-3 psi and it sounds like a truck.

MR VTEC
09-29-2005, 10:27 AM
have you guys contacted kinetic in regards to this issue.
It may be a defect in the manifold itself in how it was made, probably it morphs once installed due to the heat

RedRocket
09-29-2005, 10:31 AM
Well Kinetic uses a locking plate at well. i bet my problem is in the turbo to cat bolts and/or the outermost mani to turbo bolt. I did not lock that one because I want to see if the whole this could stand on it's own. I havn't had a chance to check the tightness, but I will tonight.

EuroA4
09-29-2005, 10:40 AM
All the leaks I've had were from the mani to turbo bolts. I have grade 10 hex bolts 80mmx1.5 I think. I used a locking washer and torqued them all down (except the inner most one).

I'm just going to keep reaching in with a bent wrench to get to them. When I get a HFC...then I'll just take it all apart, and replace the shorter bolt, then re-assemble and re-torque.

Ahhhh, the joys of tuning.

RedRocket
09-29-2005, 10:43 AM
^^^Ya no kidding. Thing is I've had an exhaust leak so long, I didn't even feel lag when I putin the bigger mani. All I can say is, my next car is going to be NA.

EuroA4
09-29-2005, 02:23 PM
^^ I hear that

RedRocket
10-03-2005, 08:44 AM
Ok, So I figured out the problem.

Kinetic Motorsports sends out a locking plate with their manifolds. I figured I'd lock two of the three nuts to see if it would actually work without the locking plate and for some other reasons that I can't quite put into words.

So I ripped out the air box last night, moved the oil lines out of the way and gave that one bolt a few turns. I think it took about 1 complete turn to get tight and then I gave it a half turn and locked that sucker up.

I also opened (unlocked) one of the other bolts and tried to turn it. It wouldn't budge.

I did all this when the car was warmed up. But to be honest, if bolts 1 and 2 were locked up at "cold" temp during the initial install and they did not losen, all three could have been done the same, and there would have been to need to warm up the car.

So to those doing turbo swaps, get that locking plate. I used the red threadlocker and it didn't do $hit for that bolt without the locking plate.