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Toronto0922
06-03-2015, 08:26 AM
Hi All,

I was hoping for my first post to be a DIY, unfortunately its asking for help [:/],

I hope some of you gurus can help me out here.

To start off, I have a 2009 B8 A4 quattro 3.2 V6 with 77000km (48000 miles), car is very clean and well taken care of.

On a night with very heavy rain, the engine check light came on. I drove back home and hooked vagcom to see what going on (car was running smoothly and no stutter or anything like that).

I got P0366, P0017 fault codes.

went to the dealership and got a new cam sensor (G300) and replaced the one attached to the engine.

hooked vagcom and cleared the codes, started the car and drove it for a bit, all seemed ok.

Started the car again the next morning and the light came back, hooked vagcom and was getting P0365 (same sensor "malfunction").

in an effort to make sure its not the new sensor I switched bank one with bank two and the code remained at bank one.

checked that the sensor is seated properly and everything, checked the voltage at the connection plug and it was 5V and the same as in the other sensor plugs.

I also suspected that it might be the battery but that checked out fine, also switched the cam adjustment solenoids bank one intake and exhaust and still the same code so those seem to be fine as well.

The car starts but idles a slightly rough at cold start but when the rpms drop to warm idle its smooth as butter (no misfires though).

checked the timing and it was spot on, however in the readiness window i have everything as passed except for "exhaust gas recirculation" and "evaporative emissions" to be "failed or incomplete".

This fault code just wont go away 

Could it be my starter? or should i look at the wiring again? vacuum leak?

any help would be much appreciated.

Thanks in advance

vacsimile
06-05-2015, 10:35 PM
How did you check the timing? Check the ground wire at the sensor, too. The third wire goes directly to the ECM so you would need to disconnect the ECM to test it. But because of the P0017 fault I believe your problem to be mechanical... Maybe a weak chain tensioner for bank one or a stretched chain. I would listen to the upper timing chain covers and valve cover bolts with a stethoscope for destructive-type noises or differences between the two banks. If one of the tensioners is weak the chain will slap around and make some racket. Listen at various engine speeds, and under a load (parking brake on, brake pedal all the way down, transmission in drive, then give it part-throttle. Only do this for a few seconds at a time to keep from overheating the torque converter).

Good luck, keep us posted.

Toronto0922
06-12-2015, 05:36 AM
Hey vacsimile,

Thank you for the reply, great insight.

I checked the bank one and bank two camshaft angles using VCDS and those were within tolerance.

I checked the voltage at the sensor connector (terminal 1 with terminal 3) and it was showing 4.989V so I assumed the ground was ok, might be worth checking the continuity at the ECM as well.

I will try checking the wires more diligently before I take this problem to the dealer.

If I cant figure out something by this coming tuesday, I will let you know what the dealer came up with.

Thanks again....much appreciated.

vacsimile
06-12-2015, 05:27 PM
Hey vacsimile,

Thank you for the reply, great insight.

I checked the bank one and bank two camshaft angles using VCDS and those were within tolerance.

I checked the voltage at the sensor connector (terminal 1 with terminal 3) and it was showing 4.989V so I assumed the ground was ok, might be worth checking the continuity at the ECM as well.

I will try checking the wires more diligently before I take this problem to the dealer.

If I cant figure out something by this coming tuesday, I will let you know what the dealer came up with.

Thanks again....much appreciated.

If you checked between pins 1 and 3 and had 5v then yeah, the power supply and grounds are both good. If your camshaft angles read good with a scanner then everything is working properly at that time. I mean, the scanner is just reading what the cam sensor is telling the ECM, and if that is good it won't set a fault. If you look at the freeze frame data for the faults for RPM and load you may get a better idea of when to look at camshaft timing with VCDS. For example, if it's setting the fault at 3,000 RPMs and 75% load, you may need to duplicate these conditions before the issue emerges.

Something else you can check is water intrusion into the e-box, where the ECM is. It is under the driver's side of the wiper cowl and is pretty easy to get to. Remove the wiper arms, then the cowl, then the upper half of the washer fluid reservoir. The e-box lid is held down with 4 or 5 T30 screws.

I still believe your problem is mechanical, and if I am right it probably isn't bad enough to show up when the engine is idling. I highly recommend listening to the engine at different engine speeds/loads, in particular the upper timing chain covers and cylinder heads. Good luck man, I hope this helps.

Toronto0922
06-17-2015, 06:08 AM
UPDATE:

Took the car to the dealership yesterday morning for diagnostics, and waited for their call all day....called back and I was informed that they needed more diagnostic time and that they have their most experienced tech working on it trying to figure out what the problem is.

They said that they will call back today to inform me what they came up with.

will keep you posted,

Cheers

Toronto0922
06-17-2015, 10:33 AM
UPDATE 2:

Audi dealership called back today and confirmed that the problem is a faulty ECM.....they said they ordered a new unit that should arrive tomorrow.

Fortunately, the ECM cost as well as the diagnostic time cost is going to be covered by emissions warranty and they said I can come and pick up the car tomorrow without paying anything.

Very relieved...

Thanks Vacsimile for all the input and help...much appreciated

I hope this thread would help someone one way or another someday.

vacsimile
06-17-2015, 05:51 PM
No problem, I hope the ECM fixes it.