View Full Version : Need input of what could be the problem. Rear suspension related
Mister W
06-02-2015, 07:05 PM
I couldn't find what i'm looking for (hard when you dont know the terms), but i need help to diagnose to problem.
When i hit a bump (not a hole) at higher speed than city driving, sometime i can feel the car shift from side to side. It goes fast, not like i am loosing the tail, but more like i was on soft winter tires. Like if the bottom part of the car stay right in place on the road, but the upper part of the body moves from side to side a bit. I can feel it with my ass.
I assume it is related to the rear suspension, and that means control arm? I have changed the swaybar bushings, the control arm lower bushing (the S shape CA, the bushing that goes to the hub).
I can hear a clunk over bump during cold temp in winter, but not when it's warm. I could not see loose thing when shaking them with my hands.
What part of the rear suspension have to be changed or can do those problems usually? I,m at 180 000km and front CA are dead and changing them soon with FCP kit.
thank you for your help
JayDog747
06-02-2015, 08:45 PM
With that many miles on it you should replace the upper control arm bushings. Have them pressed in, it's cheaper than replacing the whole arm. I don't see a rear diff mount in your sig, definitely replace that. If you want to take it a step further, replace the lateral arm, knuckle bushing and rear upper shock mount. inspect the crossmember bushing for any tears or ripping. 034 has a new part to stiffen that up.
Mister W
06-02-2015, 09:20 PM
Thanx for reply. I had the upper control arm bushing replaced, the one that meet the hub. My mechanic told me the one near the frame was looking good. I dont have a rear diff mount, that could make the car shift from side to side? I changed my shock mount already.
As for lateral arm, knuckle bushing and cross member, that are the parts that i dont know about unless i have a picture of it. I am not familiar with those term, if any can show an exploded view like ETKA of those part that i should check , it will help a lot, showing which bushing can move the car side to side. and if any of those bushing can be pressed in or if i have to change the whole part.
I have this image from a B6, you can point the number of problematic bushing to change.
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-VsMAIcmLz_c/UgZ4cDU-EDI/AAAAAAAACWI/lNYJHjhKWcQ/s800/rear%2520suspension.png
thanx again for helping.
JayDog747
06-02-2015, 10:23 PM
The rear diff mount takes up the drive line slop. Not so much side-side movement. I'm surprised you can't feel it being a 6sp stage 1. Normally the rear diff mount goes out by 75k. Your car is 10 years old with over 100k on it, you should replace the rear control arm bushing in pairs. Looks can be deceiving. I would definitely replace the inner bushing before moving on to other parts. The lateral arm, also known as the rear tie rod/arm or trailering link, is a part that gets replaced. The Knuckle bushing, lower control arm bushing, that is attached to the hub is pressed in. The cross member bushing is pressed in. the S shaped CA is referred to as the rear upper control arm or to be more specific the transverse link.
Mister W
06-03-2015, 07:43 AM
Thank you. Tell me if i got those parts right with the numbers.
The lateral arm, also known as the rear tie rod/arm or trailering link 12, is a part that gets replaced (bushing only or whole part?). The Knuckle bushing10 that goes in 15, lower control arm bushing , that is attached to the hub is pressed in 13. The cross member bushing is pressed in 11-16. the S shaped CA is referred to as the rear upper control arm or to be more specific the transverse link.
JayDog747
06-03-2015, 12:03 PM
The rear tie rod #12 gets replaced. It's relatively cheap. $60-80 US. The Knuckle bushing #10 gets pressed into the hub #9. The cross member bushing is #4. It is pressed into the sub frame. This one is rare that it gets replaced. Before you move on to these bushings, be sure to replace the upper control arm bushing near the frame. I replaced mine at 82k(miles not km) and it made a big difference with rear end wiggle and steering.
Mister W
06-03-2015, 07:28 PM
Great, thank you for the input.
chris@fifteen52
06-03-2015, 07:33 PM
And get ready for everything to be seized.
Mcosma
05-10-2020, 04:55 PM
Reviving an old thread, I’m completely replacing all front CAs and thinking about what to do with the rear. It’s 180k miles, I couldn’t tell if the rear was wobbling before I started tearing out the fronts (cars on jack stands right now). There’s plenty of videos and data for the front suspension, but I haven’t found much for the rear.
It seems like RockAuto sells the lateral link (#12) and transverse link (#13). They probably sell bushings, but I’m not looking to tear the axle/knuckle apart to press bushings. Is it worth replacing these 2 parts but not dealing with the other bushings?
Jayz691
05-10-2020, 05:19 PM
I changed all my rear arms, except for the big lower A arm, thats next. My alignment is off in rear, thats most of the readon for doing. I went with Moog arms from rockauto, not too expensive. Still gotta do the big arm, bought used ones to "refresh" then swap. Only place I found for bushings for that big A-arm is FCP, for $50/side. Know that the rears can be a bitch, I had to cut some out. Also, need to lower subframe to get the inner bolt on the upper arm. Had a press-fit nut, that ALWAYS breaks loose. So need to get a pipe wrench or something on nut to loosen. Thats reason for lowering subframe. Not horrible, just keep in mind.
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