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View Full Version : Just got back for Dealership.



Monchichi8
09-21-2005, 09:52 AM
Took the car in for an Oil change and well Both CV boots are busted and I need rear brakes...Quess how much?..........Just a lil over a $1,000.... Ouch!... anybody have similar repairs and what did it cost you?... thanks, Chris I think I gotta find a good german shop here in FL. Damn, where to look?

LateraLex
09-21-2005, 09:59 AM
Are you under warranty?

jaustin
09-21-2005, 10:05 AM
yeah, I would find a different shop and not use the dealership for this. Almost any SEA place should be able to do it but you would really want one that can work on imports.

MR VTEC
09-21-2005, 10:07 AM
cv boots doesn't cost that much...
but i would replace the whhole axle
you can get them rebuilt plus labor for around $180 and up (per side) I paid $175 for driver side axle (rebuilt plus labor).

rear brakes
buy the pads from ecs tuning (pbr)
and labor should be at the one hoour rate because it doesn't take longer than that to replace pads.

Total bill from a private mechanic should be as low as $450+ for everthing including labor.

k0mpresd
09-21-2005, 10:11 AM
i put a outer cv boot on my pass side front axle...cake

cost me like $17 and some change

Monchichi8
09-21-2005, 10:49 AM
Sweet...thanks guys....Kompresd Where did you buy the boots?...There are 2 boots per axle right?...And I would need What type of greese to repack and lube Axle?

Audi A4 1.8T
09-21-2005, 10:58 AM
wow never go to the dealer. really you can do all this your self as far as labor goes...

Raudi Audi
09-21-2005, 11:03 AM
stealership

k0mpresd
09-21-2005, 11:11 AM
Originally posted by Monchichi8
Sweet...thanks guys....Kompresd Where did you buy the boots?...There are 2 boots per axle right?...And I would need What type of greese to repack and lube Axle?
well, i could have gotten one from work but VW has switched to a plastic boot instead of a rubber one..i have no idea why they did this, the plastic ones suck, so i wouldnt recommend going to the dealer to get one

i got mine from a local foreign car shop/parts..almost the same price as my work, only like $1 more expensive..i would try a local parts place in your area

but anyways, yes, 2 boots per axle, one @ each end, by the wheel and by the transmission, the outer ones are the ones that usually tear

a cv boot kit should come w/ a new boot, grease, center axle bolt (the one that holds it to the hub), clamps, and a few other misc pieces

http://audizine.com/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=61759

Monchichi8
09-21-2005, 11:31 AM
Originally posted by k0mpresd
well, i could have gotten one from work but VW has switched to a plastic boot instead of a rubber one..i have no idea why they did this, the plastic ones suck, so i wouldnt recommend going to the dealer to get one

i got mine from a local foreign car shop/parts..almost the same price as my work, only like $1 more expensive..i would try a local parts place in your area

but anyways, yes, 2 boots per axle, one @ each end, by the wheel and by the transmission, the outer ones are the ones that usually tear

a cv boot kit should come w/ a new boot, grease, center axle bolt (the one that holds it to the hub), clamps, and a few other misc pieces

http://audizine.com/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=61759

You Rock! thanks.

k0mpresd
09-21-2005, 11:34 AM
anytime...glad i could help

jones3000
09-21-2005, 11:37 AM
WOW! sorry to say but they got you. I just replaced both CV boots. Cost me about $25 a piece. It's probably a 4 hour labor job. Rear brakes and pads would have ran about $250 or so. Everything should have been around $500-$600 max depending on labor rates and which rotors and pads you went with.

k0mpresd
09-21-2005, 11:40 AM
both cv boots do not take 4hrs..should take about an hour, two if theyre doing both sides

jones3000
09-21-2005, 11:42 AM
with doing the rear brakes and worst case scenario. My tech did mine in 2 hours.

Monchichi8
09-21-2005, 11:50 AM
http://rep.speedycarparts.com/parts/speedycarparts/quote.jsp?make=AU&year=2001&product=K6010-104889&application=000595433&part=C.V.%20Boot%20Kit&category=K&dp=false

Now the joint kit is the whole new axle and boot?
Where the best plce to get rotors and pads? want something that will stop well and less dust but nothing that going to squeek. Thanks ..Chris

k0mpresd
09-21-2005, 12:13 PM
no, the joint kit is just that, a joint w/ associated parts, boot n such

you dont need that unless the axles are making noise, if just the boot is torn then all you need is the boot

www.ecstuning.com for brakes

i have pbr metal masters on the front w/ very little dust

RedRocket
09-21-2005, 12:40 PM
Ouch, those are DIY things man. If you don't have any tools or experience, spent 50 - 100 on tools, and get a bentley. That is of course if you have a driveway or somewhere to work on it. It's also nice to invite someone with some experience over to maybe help too man.... Front breaks are easier than the rears when you get there [:)]

Monchichi8
09-21-2005, 12:59 PM
Originally posted by RedRocket
Ouch, those are DIY things man. If you don't have any tools or experience, spent 50 - 100 on tools, and get a bentley. That is of course if you have a driveway or somewhere to work on it. It's also nice to invite someone with some experience over to maybe help too man.... Front breaks are easier than the rears when you get there [:)]

I am pretty mechanical..Just never tore into the audi before,a lil nevrous because I don't know shiet about german cars...Now a mustang, especially a fox body I am pretty good with.

RedRocket
09-21-2005, 01:04 PM
Ya I hear ya man, but shiet you were not changing a crankshaft. Breaks are breaks. I used to work at a shop and I've done lots. They are all pretty much the same right. It's like you gotta weigh things out as far as how badley you can screw the car up. Back breaks, you can try, worst case you just stuf everything back in there and drive it to the shop.

Anyhow I hear ya man, just have more confidence in yourself bro. I am in the same thing right now, gonna rip the car apart tonght to do the Timing belt. [:)]

Monchichi8
09-21-2005, 01:12 PM
Originally posted by RedRocket
Ya I hear ya man, but shiet you were not changing a crankshaft. Breaks are breaks. I used to work at a shop and I've done lots. They are all pretty much the same right. It's like you gotta weigh things out as far as how badley you can screw the car up. Back breaks, you can try, worst case you just stuf everything back in there and drive it to the shop.

Anyhow I hear ya man, just have more confidence in yourself bro. I am in the same thing right now, gonna rip the car apart tonght to do the Timing belt. [:)]

Good luck with it! Like you were saying...I think I might just tear into myself...no better way to get to get to know your car. right.

k0mpresd
09-21-2005, 01:12 PM
timing belt is easy..hardest part for me was actually getting the new one on..that thing is a tight fit [:)]

1.8TQTATL
09-21-2005, 01:37 PM
Just got back from the Stealership, I brought it in for an oil change, and they told me I need a new Radiator, and the systems flushed...$1400! [mad]

RedRocket
09-21-2005, 01:42 PM
Originally posted by 1.8TQTATL
Just got back from the Stealership, I brought it in for an oil change, and they told me I need a new Radiator, and the systems flushed...$1400! [mad]

Wow? Have you ever flushed it in the past 4/5 years?

MR VTEC
09-21-2005, 01:48 PM
tell thanks i'll be going to my mechanic an use oem parts so i'm still under warrenty [:p]

1.8TQTATL
09-21-2005, 03:28 PM
Originally posted by RedRocket
Wow? Have you ever flushed it in the past 4/5 years?

Yea def I did. Ironically, I went in today to do my preventive once very 3,000 mile oil change. Apparently, as the quote from the dealer states "Upon inspection, found signs of transmission fluid mixing with coolant. Quoted 1400.00 to replace radiator. Flush Transmission, and Flush Cooling System".

A few of the coils went bad I believe.
[mad]

RedRocket
09-21-2005, 09:10 PM
Originally posted by 1.8TQTATL
Yea def I did. Ironically, I went in today to do my preventive once very 3,000 mile oil change. Apparently, as the quote from the dealer states "Upon inspection, found signs of transmission fluid mixing with coolant. Quoted 1400.00 to replace radiator. Flush Transmission, and Flush Cooling System".

A few of the coils went bad I believe.
[mad]

Wow, I'm stumped by that. How the hell do those too mix? Are you under warranty? Sorry if you already answered that.

boosteda4
09-21-2005, 09:12 PM
hmm.. u really should consider DIY... I've replaced axles, done brake rotors and pads, done full exhaust installs, lowering.. etc.. not too hard.. SAVE A GRIP LOAD OF MONEY.. =)

1.8TQTATL
09-22-2005, 03:54 AM
Originally posted by RedRocket
Wow, I'm stumped by that. How the hell do those too mix? Are you under warranty? Sorry if you already answered that.

Nah, im out of warranty. Makes the hole in my pocket that much bigger [:(] .

Monchichi8
09-22-2005, 07:43 AM
IS there anything "special" I need to do when changing the rotors and pads?

RedRocket
09-22-2005, 08:08 AM
Originally posted by Monchichi8
IS there anything "special" I need to do when changing the rotors and pads?

Nope. Eccept the rear caliper pistons require a bit of a special tool that rotates the piston as it gets pushed in.

Look =>http://www.ecstuning.com/stage/edpd/pagebuild_v2.cgi?make=Audi&engine=1.8T&model=B5%20A4&submodel=Quattro&searchqt=onsale

Traditionallt you could get away with just using a big pair of channel lock pilers. But the read need that tool.

Monchichi8
09-22-2005, 08:18 AM
Originally posted by RedRocket
Nope. Eccept the rear caliper pistons require a bit of a special tool that rotates the piston as it gets pushed in.

Look =>http://www.ecstuning.com/stage/edpd/pagebuild_v2.cgi?make=Audi&engine=1.8T&model=B5%20A4&submodel=Quattro&searchqt=onsale

Traditionallt you could get away with just using a big pair of channel lock pilers. But the read need that tool.

Sweet...you think that the OE big brake kit is worth the money?..I mean carries and rotors almost 400 bucks?.. the rear they don't really have anything for it except S4 upgrade.I just need rear rotors., I will upgrade to the slotted and cross drilled ones..just need replacements.
http://www.ecstuning.com/stage/edpd/pagebuild_v2.cgi?make=Audi&engine=1.8T&model=B5%20A4&submodel=Quattro&category=Braking&subcategory=Big%20Brake%20OEM

LateraLex
09-22-2005, 08:29 AM
You can rent that caliper tool for free from most Autozone stores...

RedRocket
09-22-2005, 08:32 AM
By the looks of it, I would say it is worth the money, but I don't know a whole lot about the big break upgrades. I hear it is not worth it to upgrade the rears. And I'm talking about a real upgrade, not X-Drilled ot slotted. That is more so cosmetic.

The carriers and rotors seems like a good deal, question is how does it compare to the other breaks? I would this it wil similar to A8 or TT breaks. Also consider what rims comfigurations you run. I know this setup will not work under my 16"s in the winter. Maybe somone else can chime in about it.

Monchichi8
09-22-2005, 08:38 AM
Originally posted by RedRocket
By the looks of it, I would say it is worth the money, but I don't know a whole lot about the big break upgrades. I hear it is not worth it to upgrade the rears. And I'm talking about a real upgrade, not X-Drilled ot slotted. That is more so cosmetic.

The carriers and rotors seems like a good deal, question is how does it compare to the other breaks? I would this it wil similar to A8 or TT breaks. Also consider what rims comfigurations you run. I know this setup will not work under my 16"s in the winter. Maybe somone else can chime in about it.

Yea, it says the the OE big brake upgrade will fit 16's..heres what they said.
"ECS OEM Big Brake Kit - (plain aftermarket rotor, w/o pads)
TT Carrier, 12.3 One Piece Rotor
Great budget minded brake upgrade. Increases clamping force of the calipers by giving the caliper more leverage. Leverage is increased by moving the caliper out from the center line of the axle. Kit includes larger rotors (312mm versus 288mm) which also increases your brakes ability to dissipate heater much more efficiently than the stock rotor because of the larger mass of the rotor. Must have a minimum of 16" wheels to clear this kit. "

RedRocket
09-22-2005, 08:53 AM
ya, I know they say that but with my 16"s there is like 5 mm between the edge of the caliper and the inside of the rip. Mind you I am a 97, and I remember reading somewhere that my calipers are fatter.....

bitterchild
09-22-2005, 08:55 AM
how does trans fluid get into your cooling system? someone is smoking some weed

RedRocket
09-22-2005, 09:07 AM
Originally posted by bitterchild
how does trans fluid get into your cooling system? someone is smoking some weed

Second that.

RedRocket
09-22-2005, 09:08 AM
Originally posted by bitterchild
how does trans fluid get into your cooling system? someone is smoking some weed

Maybe he once had it serviced at a highschool Autoshop. lol!

1.8TQTATL
09-22-2005, 09:13 AM
Originally posted by RedRocket
Maybe he once had it serviced at a highschool Autoshop. lol!
haha, id rather kill myself. It might have been something the previous owner did, as I aquired the car with 46,000 on it.

RedRocket
09-22-2005, 09:52 AM
Sorry to hear that man. I would ask the dealer how those fluids ended up that way. So is there coolant in your tranny too? Something does not add up. Honestly get a better explanation and find out if they are fixing the actual problem and not just a result of the problem.

Maybe you want to take up a DIY? Buy a RAD and the fluids??

Monchichi8
09-23-2005, 08:01 AM
LEts talk about the rotors on the car. if they have a lil lip on them from wear can I just put new pads in?..I understand that these rotors can't be turned. The rotors are not warped or scared in anyway...So to cut down on cost..I figured instead of replacing everything...just do the pads. Should there be any problems with that?

Hassmeister
09-23-2005, 08:12 AM
Avoid the dealership unless under warranty. Local independants that specialize in our cars would do just as good and charge less for labor.

ECS, German Auto parts and sometimes Clair parts work for me for OEM parts.

Zimmerman, Brembo and ATE brake discs work well on our cars.

As for pads... the best quality according to posts I've seen and speaking to local Audi enthusiasts are "Hawk" Pads.

CV Joint/Boot replacement on our Audi's is a breeze.

Good luck.

Hassmeister
09-23-2005, 08:18 AM
Originally posted by Monchichi8
LEts talk about the rotors on the car. if they have a lil lip on them from wear can I just put new pads in?..I understand that these rotors can't be turned. The rotors are not warped or scared in anyway...So to cut down on cost..I figured instead of replacing everything...just do the pads. Should there be any problems with that?

I wouldn't turn them. It would be just as cheap to buy new (at about $35 each rotor).

To avoid any problems I'd replace the pads & rotors "as new" at the same time. You will be happier that you did it that way. A pair of decent pads are normally $35. So for just over $100 is pretty good deal.
Shop around for the best price... sometimes if you buy both they may discount or throw in free shipping. Some places offer FREE shipping on over $50 or more.

Monchichi8
09-23-2005, 12:07 PM
Well here is what I found. Are these the Mintex pads everyone uses?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Audi-Mintex-Red-Brake-Pads-Front-Rear-Set-A4-A6-A8-TT_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33567QQitemZ80013992 72QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW