DIY - Oil pressure Read Out

[fly300kts]

Hi Guys,

You must have recently read on the site numerous engine problems due to loss of oil pressure. Since the VFIZ has the read out capability, I relocated the OEM sensor and added a pressure switch. Of course, you can use other gauges if you don't have the VFIZ.

Time = 3 hrs
Difficulty = 3

Relocation Kit
http://www.42draftdesigns.com/VW-Oil-Pressure-Relocation-Kit_p_314.html

Sensor
0 to 100 PSI
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Fits-oil-fuel-air-Pressure-transducer-sender-sensor-100-psi-stainless-steel-/351359154545?hash=item51cea33971&vxp=mtr

Remove from his location the coolant tank and secure it on the side (do not disconnect hoses)

I did not take a picture of the OEM sensor in place but it's basically located on the driver side, back of the engine (right behind the oil cooler).
Location identified with the red arrow and in this case, relocation line already installed.

http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c395/fly300kts/Oil%20Pressure/B6E883E9-BB66-468B-B927-F957BF06D3A9_zpswgbmxuwq.jpg (http://s31.photobucket.com/user/fly300kts/media/Oil%20Pressure/B6E883E9-BB66-468B-B927-F957BF06D3A9_zpswgbmxuwq.jpg.html)

Disconnect sender electrical connector
You will need an extended 24 mm socket to remove the sensor. Once the socket is in place, there is no room to install the ratchet.
Enlarge one side hole of the socket to be able to fit a pry bar.

Modified socket
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c395/fly300kts/Oil%20Pressure/5B6E7D01-19F3-4EEC-98BC-E3E6CAE81B17_zpsgcuijjrd.jpg (http://s31.photobucket.com/user/fly300kts/media/Oil%20Pressure/5B6E7D01-19F3-4EEC-98BC-E3E6CAE81B17_zpsgcuijjrd.jpg.html)

Pry bar installed
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c395/fly300kts/Oil%20Pressure/21E46CBF-7DC1-46D3-8829-42FF0FB61B98_zpsbcs6u7pl.jpg (http://s31.photobucket.com/user/fly300kts/media/Oil%20Pressure/21E46CBF-7DC1-46D3-8829-42FF0FB61B98_zpsbcs6u7pl.jpg.html)
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c395/fly300kts/Oil%20Pressure/4EC5B3B8-B84D-42CE-BB18-E90475A937C7_zpsckbufm7a.jpg (http://s31.photobucket.com/user/fly300kts/media/Oil%20Pressure/4EC5B3B8-B84D-42CE-BB18-E90475A937C7_zpsckbufm7a.jpg.html)

The sensor (at list mine) was not really tight in place. Remove the sensor. At the base, you will see a flat washer connected to a wire (ground). Cut 2 inches of the wire.
Install the extension hose and run vertically (new sensor already installed on this picture)

http://s31.photobucket.com/user/fly300kts/media/Oil%20Pressure/B5FCD798-49E0-4DCF-BD64-14862AB6D4CA_zps94gyxc6e.jpg.html?sort=3&o=7

Solder a new wire to the washer recovered from the OEM sender. At the other end of this wire, solder the large connector, provided in the 42DD kit.
Protect with heat shrink.
Install OEM sender onto 42DD fitting and interface the OEM washer (red arrow)

http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c395/fly300kts/Oil%20Pressure/84214000-B694-49F2-A604-D00B9326581B_zpso6aqqgze.jpg (http://s31.photobucket.com/user/fly300kts/media/Oil%20Pressure/84214000-B694-49F2-A604-D00B9326581B_zpso6aqqgze.jpg.html)

Remove ground nut from firewall and connect the other end of the wire (red arrow)
Your fitting is now perfectly grounded

http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c395/fly300kts/Oil%20Pressure/D87B44EA-8314-495E-B422-66F6BA0F4527_zpskdpgr9in.jpg (http://s31.photobucket.com/user/fly300kts/media/Oil%20Pressure/D87B44EA-8314-495E-B422-66F6BA0F4527_zpskdpgr9in.jpg.html)

Cut an 1 inch away from the OEM sensor electrical connector. Extend the wire (solder) from the old location to the new location.
Protect with heat shrink
Plug OEM pressure switch
Plug new pressure switch
Run to wires from the new sensor to the new oil pressure gauge
Install the coolant tank
Start the car for 10mn at idle and check for leaks, especially at the base on extension hose

You are done

http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c395/fly300kts/Oil%20Pressure/986E5E94-FBAC-4AEB-8502-BC7A7D85B07A_zpsjwdfkggm.jpg (http://s31.photobucket.com/user/fly300kts/media/Oil%20Pressure/986E5E94-FBAC-4AEB-8502-BC7A7D85B07A_zpsjwdfkggm.jpg.html)

For information, with with engine oil at temperature (80C), your oil pressure should be:

Idle 1 Bar - 14.5 PSI
3000 RPM 3.5 to 4.5 Bar - 50.7 to 65.2 PSI

http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c395/fly300kts/Oil%20Pressure/ED1C7A48-D2D7-4703-8D62-D219B3472959_zpsgnbxczv1.jpg (http://s31.photobucket.com/user/fly300kts/media/Oil%20Pressure/ED1C7A48-D2D7-4703-8D62-D219B3472959_zpsgnbxczv1.jpg.html)

Let me know if any question

Phil

[Older_not_Wiser]

I am planning on fixing an oil leak from up behind the oil filter this summer and doing a carbon clean at the same time. Looks like a perfect time to add oil pressure sender/extender. I have P3 cars gauge and it has a few 0-5V open ports for adding other gauges/measurements.
Thanks Phil, looks like the hardest part is getting to the OEM sender location.

[fly300kts]

I am planning on fixing an oil leak from up behind the oil filter this summer and doing a carbon clean at the same time. Looks like a perfect time to add oil pressure sender/extender. I have P3 cars gauge and it has a few 0-5V open ports for adding other gauges/measurements.
Thanks Phil, looks like the hardest part is getting to the OEM sender location.

Access is pretty tight but doable.

Phil

[waiapasi2006]

Great work Phil!

[yung turbo]

how did you get the reading to come up on your dash screen?

[fly300kts]

how did you get the reading to come up on your dash screen?

VFIZ interface

http://www.qmatis.com/us/devices/menu-vfiz

Phil

[mec]

I'm confused on why you RE-grounded the oem sensor? When I installed my 44 DD kit and secondary sensor, I looked at the wiring and traced it back and the OEM sensor is already grounded, you just had to make a ground wire connection for the new sensor and a signal wire to a gauge for the new sensor

[fly300kts]

I'm confused on why you RE-grounded the oem sensor? When I installed my 44 DD kit and secondary sensor, I looked at the wiring and traced it back and the OEM sensor is already grounded, you just had to make a ground wire connection for the new sensor and a signal wire to a gauge for the new sensor

My OEM sensor is not grounded, only 1 wire (signal wire) at the connector

http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c395/fly300kts/Oil%20Pressure/0D7531FA-6E4E-4851-9C71-1114BCD688D7_zps5cqddgxd.jpg (http://s31.photobucket.com/user/fly300kts/media/Oil%20Pressure/0D7531FA-6E4E-4851-9C71-1114BCD688D7_zps5cqddgxd.jpg.html)

Phil

[drumnjuny]

That's weird as shit?? Mine has two pins lol. Weird!!

[mec]

My OEM sensor is not grounded, only 1 wire (signal wire) at the connector

http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c395/fly300kts/Oil%20Pressure/0D7531FA-6E4E-4851-9C71-1114BCD688D7_zps5cqddgxd.jpg (http://s31.photobucket.com/user/fly300kts/media/Oil%20Pressure/0D7531FA-6E4E-4851-9C71-1114BCD688D7_zps5cqddgxd.jpg.html)

Phil

I have my harness in the garage and just double checked, it has two pins for sure. Maybe one pin is a tiptronic thing.

[fly300kts]

I have my harness in the garage and just double checked, it has two pins for sure. Maybe one pin is a tiptronic thing.

Might be

Phil

[drewgold]

Just completed this install and have a few notes to add to Phil's DIY.

1. My car is a manual 2006 2.0t and it had the single pole plug, same as Phil's. Must be a MY thing.

2. I was able to fit a socket and wrench over my sensor, no need to modify in my case, may be a little extra room with the manual transmission? I also didn't have a deep 24mm socket but a 15/16" socket works very well.

3. It's not necessary to cut the ground wire on the sensor. (And therefore no soldering is needed) It is grounded to the bracket that is attached to the block immediately below the sensor. There's one hex bolt holding the bracket in place. #7 hex iirc. With this removed, you can remove the oil pressure sensor with the ground wire intact. After you have removed the ground wire, simply reinstall the bracket.

4. I was able to mount the 42 Draft Designs relocation kit in an area that allowed the existing ground wire on the sensor to reach the ground point on the firewall (Marked in Phil's picture), and the sensor wire was also still able to reach. (See picture) I just had to weave the sensor wire back along the bundle of wires then up toward where the ground location is.

5. Be careful when tightening the brass adapter fitting for the sensor hole. My fitting broke and I barely put any force into it. Mine may have been defective but regardless, don't over tighten this part!

Hope this info helps. And big thanks to Phil for a very helpful DIY.

Here's a pic of the mounting location that I used. (With the coolant tank moved to the side) I just zip-tied the 42 DD block to the wiring that's attached to the firewall.

http://i59.tinypic.com/2j1og3q.jpg

[kicoro1]

FYI, Cyber Monday is also ongoing for VFIZ

[wjg22]

When you remove the OEM sensor, how much oil is going to pour out? Not planning on going the 42DD route, but need to replace the sensor anyway.


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[Okedokey]

I got the modified banjo bolt and added mine to the turbo return feed. Works very well and much easier.

[Brillo]

I got the modified banjo bolt and added mine to the turbo return feed. Works very well and much easier.

Okedokey: I'm not sure I understand what you mean. Are you measuring the oil pressure at the return line from the turbo?

[aluthman]

I got the modified banjo bolt and added mine to the turbo return feed. Works very well and much easier.

The turbo oil return line should basically be at atmospheric pressure because the oil just drips back to the pan for the most part. Are you sure you didn't hook it up to the turbo's oil supply line?

[rongeur]

When you remove the OEM sensor, how much oil is going to pour out? Not planning on going the 42DD route, but need to replace the sensor anyway.


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Let the engine cool and sit overnight. You will get some oil but most will have returned to the sump by then.

[wjg22]

Awesome, thanks man.


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[67Twisty]

I followed Phil's DIY and used the 42DD block. Same experience as drewgold and didn't need to add wire length or additional ground to the sensor. I used an exacto knife to cut a little of the insulated sheathing so I could move the OEM sensor to the relocated position. Also made sure to use a little oil resistant Teflon tape on the threads and no leaks after almost 2 years. Did it on a cold engine and very little oil came out when removing the sensor. I think you get a better reading at this location than on the turbo line. It's also not quite as hot on this side of the engine bay which helps when considering routing for the additional sensor wire.

[Okedokey]

The turbo oil return line should basically be at atmospheric pressure because the oil just drips back to the pan for the most part. Are you sure you didn't hook it up to the turbo's oil supply line?

It will all be pressurised. It said specifically NOT to use the supply line.

[aluthman]

It will all be pressurised. It said specifically NOT to use the supply line.

Most turbos have some type of oil restrictor in the supply line to regulated flow to the turbo. This then drains from the CHRA into a much larger hose which is connected to the oil pan. The oil in the pan sees crankcase pressure only, which should be at atmospheric pressure or even a vacuum. If you hooked in to the return line and are seeing pressure, it's not an accurate reading.

[Okedokey]

Most turbos have some type of oil restrictor in the supply line to regulated flow to the turbo. This then drains from the CHRA into a much larger hose which is connected to the oil pan. The oil in the pan sees crankcase pressure only, which should be at atmospheric pressure or even a vacuum. If you hooked in to the return line and are seeing pressure, it's not an accurate reading.

Sorry, you're right, turbo feed line with this kit:

http://c1552172.r72.cf0.rackcdn.com/226374_x600.jpg

[Van Black]

Just completed this install and have a few notes to add to Phil's DIY.


http://i59.tinypic.com/2j1og3q.jpg

Where does that thin hose from the vacuum line below the ground stud go to? That vacuum valve is plugged at the small side on my car

[ahotboy15]

and maybe add a kill switch if the pressure gets "low" or "too low" not sure if there is a difference but none the less a kill switch would have prolly saved my engine from getting wiped. another great DIY phil

[drmonkey]

and maybe add a kill switch if the pressure gets "low" or "too low" not sure if there is a difference but none the less a kill switch would have prolly saved my engine from getting wiped. another great DIY phil

No, not driving it while the low oil pressure light was on would have saved you. This is to monitor oil pressure...your car already told you it didn't have pressure.

[wjg22]

Old thread bump, but I'm sourcing parts to do this DIY. I've been scouring eBay and amazon to find a 100psi 0-4.5V pressure transducer/sender with M10x1 threads. Does anyone have a link to what they used that fits the bill? The one that Phil linked to is no longer for sale and most of these other senders seem to be 1/8" NPT...I guess a thread adapter is always an option.

Follow up question: for wiring into a p3 multigauge, I understand that the new sensor will have one wire go to ground, another to the gauge analog input, and the third gets power from somewhere? 5v in? Any input from those who have something like this set up would be greatly appreciated.

Will

[z_wrecker]

So the sensor on their site is no good? The one you recommended I get earlier today [=(]
Old thread bump, but I'm sourcing parts to do this DIY. I've been scouring eBay and amazon to find a 100psi 0-4.5V pressure transducer/sender with M10x1 threads. Does anyone have a link to what they used that fits the bill? The one that Phil linked to is no longer for sale and most of these other senders seem to be 1/8" NPT...I guess a thread adapter is always an option.

Follow up question: for wiring into a p3 multigauge, I understand that the new sensor will have one wire go to ground, another to the gauge analog input, and the third gets power from somewhere? 5v in? Any input from those who have something like this set up would be greatly appreciated.

Will

[wjg22]

I didn't know what the voltage was at the time, but after finding that sensor on VDO's website it looks like its 6-24V. For the p3 gauge it says to use 0-5V, so I'll probably have to return that one I just bought from 42DD [emoji17] Since you have Vfiz though it may or may not work for you, I'm not sure.

[Older_not_Wiser]

For P3, I used 42DD hose and manifold, and a sender pretty close to this (mine was 0-100 psi):

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01I9KLGJ6/ref=asc_df_B01I9KLGJ64905339?smid=AFKU5C0MWTCAR&tag=shopz0d-20&ascsubtag=shopzilla_mp_1212-20;14913527399020802355310090302008005&linkCode=df0&creative=395105&creativeASIN=B01I9KLGJ6

You do not have to use an M10 X 1 sender as the 42DD has ports for both M10 X 1 (2) and 1/8 NPT (2)

P3 purple wire to In (+) 5V wire on sender (red on linked sender)
P3 Brown wire to Out wire on sender (yellow on linked sender)
Black wire on sender just needs to go to ground somewhere

Since most senders are labeled as 0 - 5V senders, they actually are 0.5V - 4.5V senders where 0.5V is equal to 0 PSI and 4.5 V is equal to Max Pressure (usually 100 PSI or 150 PSI depending on sensor). Often times the sensor will come with a table with the PSI readings at various voltage outputs. Setting up the P3 gauge to get it to read properly is a little odd. This is what I had to do for my sender which is 100 PSI max (it will be different for 150PSI sender).

http://i1290.photobucket.com/albums/b523/Older_Not_Wiser/P3%20setting_zpsquwumjef.jpg

Edit #2: Actually looking at the image, it got cut off and does not show the 5V value. The 5V value should be 113. So for P3 gauge with a sender that has these values:

0.5V => 0 PSI
2.5V => 50 PSI
4.5V => 100 PSI

You should set A1.Lo to -13 and A1.Hi to 113

[wjg22]

Thanks for such a comprehensive answer. Here I am searching for a sender with M10 threads, the damn 42DD accepts both. But that answers my question about wiring everything up too. I appreciate the help.

[z_wrecker]

Well balls.....should have checked their site first. It requires the same pressure sensor P3 does
I didn't know what the voltage was at the time, but after finding that sensor on VDO's website it looks like its 6-24V. For the p3 gauge it says to use 0-5V, so I'll probably have to return that one I just bought from 42DD [emoji17] Since you have Vfiz though it may or may not work for you, I'm not sure.

[wjg22]

If you just ordered it today you might be able to cancel before it ships.

[z_wrecker]

They are one state over and it shipped 25 minutes after the order. I'll see if I can return it, if not not a big deal.
If you just ordered it today you might be able to cancel before it ships.

[wjg22]

I just sent them an email about it. I'll follow up with you when I hear back.

[wjg22]

@z_wrecker 42DD emailed me back today with a return # saying that it was no problem. If you're interested in returning the sender as well just email [email protected]

[z_wrecker]

@z_wrecker 42DD emailed me back today with a return # saying that it was no problem. If you're interested in returning the sender as well just email [email protected]

Thanks. I'll follow up with them this afternoon.


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[wjg22]

Just finished this DIY today. Many thanks to Phil for the thread and to older_not_wiser for his explanation on the wiring specific to the p3 gauge. I did all of the wiring prep last night which made this a 2 hour install start to finish. Totally worth it for the peace of mind of being able to keep an eye on oil pressure [emoji106]

[z_wrecker]

Just finished this DIY today. Many thanks to Phil for the thread and to older_not_wiser for his explanation on the wiring specific to the p3 gauge. I did all of the wiring prep last night which made this a 2 hour install start to finish. Totally worth it for the peace of mind of being able to keep an eye on oil pressure [emoji106]

Do you have a link for the sensor you ordered?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[wjg22]

Eyourlife Universal 100PSI Pressure Transducer Sender Solenoid for Oil Fuel Gas Air Water #E5 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00RCPDPRQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_AmpqGlFGyiDe1

[panman142]

I know its been mentioned that having the gauge at the turbo feed line should give you similar readout to the 42DD kit. However has anyone confirmed this by trying both locations? Reason I am asking is I was driving home the other day and encountered some stopped traffic on the interstate and threw a super low (even lower than I am used to with my cam journals toast) oil pressure reading. From what I am aware the sensor should engage at 5psi. The gauge gave me like 4 or 5 psi reading I believe but did not trigger the pressure light. I know the sensor works (found out the hard way a couple months back when the balance shafts seized) but I am wondering if there actually is a difference in readings between locations...

I'm throwing the 42DD kit on order this Friday and hopefully will have the time to get to it soon and see what the change (if any) is unless someone has concrete evidence stating otherwise.

[rongeur]

I think I was talking anout that with the ECS guy. I would always try and take the pressure reading in the same place as the OEM sensor which is just after the oil filter and before being distributed to the engine. Depending on what oil and temp you were running at could cause lower pressure.

[panman142]

Right right thats what I was under the impression of too. Im not sure how much I like my gauge or know what happened that it gave me those skewed readings the other day and since then its been normal. Maybe 42DD has the kit on shelf and itll ship fairly soon. I'll write down my readings, oil type and mileage on it before and after the sending unit location change

[AudiKilla]

Hey guys! I am about to do this to my P3 Cars guage.

Just one question, where are you guys bringing the wires into the car from? What would be the best location to bring the wires into the car for the boost gauge if it's installed on the driver side vent?

[Older_not_Wiser]

Hey guys! I am about to do this to my P3 Cars guage.

Just one question, where are you guys bringing the wires into the car from? What would be the best location to bring the wires into the car for the boost gauge if it's installed on the driver side vent?

There is a rubber grommet with several cylindrical protrusions in the drivers front wheel well that gets you into the footwell just above and to the left of the clutch pedal. That is where I passed the oil pressure wires for my P3 gauge. I think there is a good picture in 'fly300kts' thread about converting halogens to bi-xenons. I have those high beam wires plumbed thru there too.

http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/409047-Halogen-to-Bi-Xenon-Kufatec-Interface

Picture 7, 8, 9 shows the path and grommet

[wjg22]

Edit

[AudiKilla]

There is a rubber grommet with several cylindrical protrusions in the drivers front wheel well that gets you into the footwell just above and to the left of the clutch pedal. That is where I passed the oil pressure wires for my P3 gauge. I think there is a good picture in 'fly300kts' thread about converting halogens to bi-xenons. I have those high beam wires plumbed thru there too.

http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/409047-Halogen-to-Bi-Xenon-Kufatec-Interface

Picture 7, 8, 9 shows the path and grommet

Thanks, I opened the ECU box and routed the wires behind there.

Got everything wired up to my P3 Cars gauge but there seems to be something wrong as there is no output. I did setup P3 Cars gauge settings according to your post on first page, I also have a 100psi sensor.

[Older_not_Wiser]

Thanks, I opened the ECU box and routed the wires behind there.

Got everything wired up to my P3 Cars gauge but there seems to be something wrong as there is no output. I did setup P3 Cars gauge settings according to your post on first page, I also have a 100psi sensor.

Go to the P3 Cars site and review the instructions for the Aux input. If I recall, you may have to activate the Aux input in the config menu and also set the min and max values that coincide with the voltages. Did you sender come with a table listing voltage and corresponding psi?

If that does not work, check the function of the wires on the sender and make sure all is hooked up right. I will go back to my previous post and see what I wrote.

Does the gauge show anything at all for any parameter (i.e. nothing works) or is it just the oil pressure that does not work?

[AudiKilla]

Only the oil pressure on the gauge does not function, everything else works fine.

I did read the instructions on their website and setup the values according to your table as my sensor did not include one.

Is it possible the wiring I used is too thick and does not transfer the correct amount of voltage?

I think I am going to rewire it.

[Axis]

^^Is your sender a 12v or a 5v?

[Older_not_Wiser]

Too thick of wire will not cause any voltage difference. Too thin of a wire could, but at these lengths even that is unlikely and it would have to be a super small gauge to make any difference. Wire is not likely the issue. Like he^^ said, send link of sender you used.

[AudiKilla]

Too thick of wire will not cause any voltage difference. Too thin of a wire could, but at these lengths even that is unlikely and it would have to be a super small gauge to make any difference. Wire is not likely the issue. Like he^^ said, send link of sender you used.

This is the sender I am using:
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/100psi-Pressure-transducer-Sender-Stainless-Steel-0-4-5V-For-Oil-Fuel-Air-Diesel/322447845266

P3 purple wire is connected to red wire on sender.
P3 Brown wire is connected to green wire on sender.

Black sender wire is connected to ground.

[AudiKilla]

I also have a volt meter if you need me to check something with it let me know please. Thanks for the help again!

[Older_not_Wiser]

Well, it appears you have connected correctly.

Verify: A1.N Y or N Enable or disable the first analog input (brown wire) is Y.

Start the car and measure the purple/red connection is 5V to any ground point.

Then with the car still running measure the brown/green connection to any ground point. Try revving the engine to 2500 or so and see if the voltage changes

If you do not get 5V on purple/red, try enabling the second aux input to Y too and then check the purple /red for 5V again

[AudiKilla]

Finally got it working, it was my fault. I had the red sender wire connected to the blue P3 wire instead of the purple one as they look very similar haha

What are your settings in P3 for A1.Lo and A1.Hi? I have it set to -13 and 100 is that correct for 100psi sender?

I seem to be idling at 17-20 psi and 60psi at 3k rpm.

[Older_not_Wiser]

^^ Those are pretty good numbers for the Hi/Lo settings as your sender had the same mapping as mine (it was in the link to the sender in your previous post, just scroll down on the Ebay listing, it was in there).
Edit: Actually looking back at my previous post the image got cut off and does not show the 5V value. The 5V value (A1.Hi) should be 113

0.5V => 0 PSI
2.5V => 50 PSI
4.5V => 100 PSI

As for your oil pressure values, those look pretty good, most would be happy with those. I am 15-16 psi at idle (AC off) at the end of my oil change interval, maybe 1-2 psi higher with fresh oil.

[AudiKilla]

I changed it to 113, now idle is 20ish psi. This is great, now I can keep an eye on my oil pressure. Thanks for the help!

[funkypterodacty]

Got my 42DD block installed but I have a 2 pole sensor(2008 A4 6mt) instead of 1 like Phils, does this mean I don't need to run a ground wire at all, assuming the 2 pole means one wired for ground already ? Sorry, I'm a complete wiring and electrical noob.

Also, anyone know how to connect this to VFIZ like so?

http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c395/fly300kts/Oil%20Pressure/ED1C7A48-D2D7-4703-8D62-D219B3472959_zpsgnbxczv1.jpg

[Joshlc1988]

I know its been mentioned that having the gauge at the turbo feed line should give you similar readout to the 42DD kit. However has anyone confirmed this by trying both locations? Reason I am asking is I was driving home the other day and encountered some stopped traffic on the interstate and threw a super low (even lower than I am used to with my cam journals toast) oil pressure reading. From what I am aware the sensor should engage at 5psi. The gauge gave me like 4 or 5 psi reading I believe but did not trigger the pressure light. I know the sensor works (found out the hard way a couple months back when the balance shafts seized) but I am wondering if there actually is a difference in readings between locations...

I'm throwing the 42DD kit on order this Friday and hopefully will have the time to get to it soon and see what the change (if any) is unless someone has concrete evidence stating otherwise.

I'm curious if location matters as well. I just got my oil pressure gauge and made my adapter to bolt to the turbo feed, but if the reading are different I'll get the 42dd kit. Has the turbo feed been confirmed to give different measurements?

[Charles.waite]

In for that same answer. I have a banjo style relocation kit that goes off the turbo feed that id like to use but I’m curious if that’s going to give me readings that mig differ from where the factory sensor is mounted. I would assume the trimmer I feed has a “main branch” feed, so it has minimal pressure drop, but I don’t know for sure.

[fly300kts]

Got my 42DD block installed but I have a 2 pole sensor(2008 A4 6mt) instead of 1 like Phils, does this mean I don't need to run a ground wire at all, assuming the 2 pole means one wired for ground already ? Sorry, I'm a complete wiring and electrical noob.

Also, anyone know how to connect this to VFIZ like so?
[/IMG]

If 2 wires, you are good, nothing to add

Phil

[funkypterodacty]

If 2 wires, you are good, nothing to add

Phil

Thanks Phil!

Any chance you can give me some insight on wiring it to the VFIZ ? I tried to pull up the manual on their website but for some reason it isn't recognizing my email. You're the only one I know that has this working, would greatly appreciate any help [hail]

[fly300kts]

As stated, email them and they will provide you the 2 wires slot position

Phil

[menace1930]

For anyone using a p3 gauge for oil pressure readings, do you happen to remember where you set the decimal point? I am currently trying to configure my setup and the gauge is asking me for Hi, Low, and Decimal Point.

[Older_not_Wiser]

For anyone using a p3 gauge for oil pressure readings, do you happen to remember where you set the decimal point? I am currently trying to configure my setup and the gauge is asking me for Hi, Low, and Decimal Point.

I set mine for 1 decimal point so I get readings like 16.5 psi or 62.7 psi. It seems to work well. Not sure I recall the exact setting required to get that.