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pbcrazy
03-20-2015, 08:26 AM
I've been a member on here for quite some time and most people know me by now, but I never have posted a build/update thread for my car. So instead of finishing up one of my engineering drawings, I thought I might as well. My car is what I consider mostly "finished" meaning there isn't a whole lot left for me to do without spending a ton of money that I don't have (college Yay), so I doubt this will be updated with new additions very often. Without further ado:

Random info in no particular order, probably forgetting a decent amount:

1998.5 A4 1.8T Quattro, 5 Speed, Laser Red, Oynx Black interior, Fully loaded, 1 of 86 with exterior/interior combo
FrankenTurbo F21, Silicone TIP, FT Manifold
United Motorsports Stage 3 AEB tune (3" MAF, 630cc Injectors)
Scorpion 2.5" Catback, 3" RAI Test pipe, Magnoflow Cat after flex pipe (for inspections)
034 ICM Delete/FSI Coils
Forge 007 Diverter
CXracing FMIC/2" piping
ECS RA4 Stage 1 (LWFW, S4 clutch/P.Plate)
034 Silicone PCV
Alzor 349 w/Michelin Sport A/S 3 225/40r18
Krauto LEDs
APR Snub mount
2 Piece projector headlights/Clear side markers
AEM Wideband/VDO Boost/PODI column mount/Prosport Oil Pressure
Kenwood HU/Kicker 4" (Front Doors)/Sony Xplod 6.5"(Rear Deck)/Stock Bose everywhere else
203k miles


And some random pictures (some are pretty old, I haven't taken any decent ones in quite a while):
http://i1194.photobucket.com/albums/aa376/pbcrazy96/5D072CCD-E708-413A-9B90-0252CE85F252_zps4iyqcghm.jpg
http://i1194.photobucket.com/albums/aa376/pbcrazy96/2245C7BE-8519-4B6F-9DED-A77999B22486_zpss7boobjw.jpg
http://i1194.photobucket.com/albums/aa376/pbcrazy96/IMG_0708_zpsb28acdc0.png

Believer
03-20-2015, 08:31 AM
Wow, no rip in the drivers seat, that must be a rarity! Car looks great - I especially like the 2 piece lights, they look just as sharp as the one peice imo.

AudiTechS4
03-20-2015, 08:47 AM
why is your coolant yellow/hint of green ?

Johns
03-20-2015, 09:49 AM
Is this your daily? Your interior is mint and same with your engine bay. Looks like you could eat off it.

The 2 piece headlights look facelift to the untrained eye. Beautiful car man!

pbcrazy
03-20-2015, 11:20 AM
Wow, no rip in the drivers seat, that must be a rarity! Car looks great - I especially like the 2 piece lights, they look just as sharp as the one peice imo.
Thanks man! The PO had car covers on the car since new and had no kids so all the seats are mint!

why is your coolant yellow/hint of green ?
Because it's not g12. I flushed the entire system 3 years ago and had no problems since.

Is this your daily? Your interior is mint and same with your engine bay. Looks like you could eat off it.

The 2 piece headlights look facelift to the untrained eye. Beautiful car man!

Thanks! Yep it's my daily, I try to keep it as clean as possible. The interior was that mint when I bought it and I cleaned the crap out of the engine bay and painted about a year ago. I really really like the headlights, clear cornerd look without the trimming.

B5A4coastie
03-20-2015, 12:01 PM
Very clean, sharp looking car!

pbcrazy
03-20-2015, 05:50 PM
Very clean, sharp looking car!
Thanks man! Speaking of, I don't think I've ever seen a picture of your car...?

adam044
03-20-2015, 06:23 PM
Hi dingleberry

pbcrazy
03-20-2015, 06:31 PM
Excuse me?

AudiSport12
03-20-2015, 08:48 PM
You and I will have a very similar set up shortly. Alzor 349 wheels, clutch, coils, FT kit, DV, FMIC, etc. Just wish I has laser haha.

pbcrazy
03-21-2015, 02:05 PM
You and I will have a very similar set up shortly. Alzor 349 wheels, clutch, coils, FT kit, DV, FMIC, etc. Just wish I has laser haha.

You chose the right path my good man [:D]. Personally I love silver b5's, the color suits them very well which is probably why they sold so many. I'm not sure why red is so rare though, for 1998 there was 1800 b5's sold and about 115 where red, and only 86 were the red/black combo I have. Regardless I love my color, the only color I would consider as a tie from my perspective is a nogaro (nogora?) blue.

B5A4coastie
03-21-2015, 06:10 PM
Thanks man! Speaking of, I don't think I've ever seen a picture of your car...?

She's no where as clean, I have a bit of body damage (small dents and paint scuffs). This summer I will strip the wax and clay bar, touch up the paint wet sand, etc. I also plan on spraying the sport wheels bronze, I like Gumby's setup, but I can't afford rims right now. Even then, the thought of getting the engine bay as clean as yours..... our cars are on different levels.

pbcrazy
03-21-2015, 06:54 PM
16" Swing sport wheels? I have a picture of them in bronze on my car somewhere. The engine bay was no big deal, just takes some serious boredom, a couple days, some degreaser and paint, as well as deleting the evap lines (and soon moving the engine harness down and possibly moving a couple more things around). More of the problem is keeping it clean, I've been letting it slip recently but it requires cleaning about every 2-4 weeks to keep it looking like the picture.

pbcrazy
03-22-2015, 01:25 PM
Mounted up my 349's today, Also found out my rear suspension is stock sport, and my front was replaced with bilstein touring which is why I have rake. Needs more low but I really like how they look/fitment. Also went back to my red mirror caps (not pictured obviously)
http://i1194.photobucket.com/albums/aa376/pbcrazy96/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpsfwbypeio.jpg
http://i1194.photobucket.com/albums/aa376/pbcrazy96/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpseyfeadr7.jpg

adam044
03-22-2015, 02:19 PM
Holy shit that front wheel gap is ridiculous.

If your struts are red they are sport.

xdewaynex
03-22-2015, 02:21 PM
Car looks great, I really like the gold valve cover.

pbcrazy
03-22-2015, 02:22 PM
Holy shit that front wheel gap is ridiculous.
Camera adds 10ins. But seriously, it's only 26in GTF up front. It's not horrible

If your struts are red they are sport.
I am aware.


Car looks great, I really like the gold valve cover.
Thanks man! I was originally gunna go with wrinkle red but I decided to be a little different. IIRC the actual color is called Burnt Orange Metallic or something

Johns
03-22-2015, 02:28 PM
But seriously, it's only 26in GTF up front.

Bought mine with standard (comfort?) at 27" GTF front and 27.5" GTF rear. It looks like a damn 4x4. Can't wait until I have the money for coils.

adam044
03-22-2015, 02:39 PM
Uh it's pretty bad lol. Not for long though.

Cool, surprised you weren't aware of what suspension you had.

Bordom
03-22-2015, 03:29 PM
Bought mine with standard (comfort?) at 27" GTF front and 27.5" GTF rear. It looks like a damn 4x4. Can't wait until I have the money for coils.
My standard suspension sites at 26" GTF front and 26.5" GTF rear. Granted she probably sags a lot

pbcrazy
03-22-2015, 03:55 PM
Cool, surprised you weren't aware of what suspension you had.
I knew I had sport package so I just figured I had sport suspension, never had a reason to pay attention to the struts until now. Just one of those things that you see all the time but never really registered for me


Bought mine with standard (comfort?) at 27" GTF front and 27.5" GTF rear. It looks like a damn 4x4. Can't wait until I have the money for coils.
Yep it's called Comfort suspension. If only coilovers weren't so expensive [headbang]

Mlambrecht17
03-23-2015, 06:29 PM
Mounted up my 349's today, Also found out my rear suspension is stock sport, and my front was replaced with bilstein touring which is why I have rake. Needs more low but I really like how they look/fitment. Also went back to my red mirror caps (not pictured obviously)
http://i1194.photobucket.com/albums/aa376/pbcrazy96/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpsfwbypeio.jpg
http://i1194.photobucket.com/albums/aa376/pbcrazy96/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpseyfeadr7.jpg
What size are these? 19s? I'm looking to get some alzors on my b7 but I don't have the money to go with bigger wheels because I'd need to lower it and buy new tires, so I was thinking about just getting 17s, would this be a waste of money?

adam044
03-23-2015, 07:54 PM
What size are these? 19s? I'm looking to get some alzors on my b7 but I don't have the money to go with bigger wheels because I'd need to lower it and buy new tires, so I was thinking about just getting 17s, would this be a waste of money?

Noo not 19s. 18s, 99% sure. 17s are cool, I run 17s as do a lot of others, wouldn't be a waste as long as you will be happy with them for months/years to come.

pbcrazy
03-23-2015, 08:21 PM
What size are these? 19s? I'm looking to get some alzors on my b7 but I don't have the money to go with bigger wheels because I'd need to lower it and buy new tires, so I was thinking about just getting 17s, would this be a waste of money?

18s, If you think about it 18s are only .5" wider on each lip which is not that noticeable. If I had 17s with good tires previously I 100% would have just gotten 17s, not that big of a difference (but my tires were dead and therefore opted for the 18s)

Mlambrecht17
03-24-2015, 06:08 AM
18s, If you think about it 18s are only .5" wider on each lip which is not that noticeable. If I had 17s with good tires previously I 100% would have just gotten 17s, not that big of a difference (but my tires were dead and therefore opted for the 18s)
Will 18s look weird with stock suspension? I feel like it will ride too high, I have brand new 17" tires, which is why I just wanna run 17s cause I wouldn't have to buy new tires

Davdraco1
03-24-2015, 06:17 AM
18's will look fine with stock suspension. you juts have to get the proper size tire. for you, since you have new 17's, i would get those size wheels so you don't have to buy new tires.

pbcrazy
03-24-2015, 06:26 AM
I can't speak from a b7 perspective, but my front suspension is only a tad lower than stock non-sport suspension. It looks high but not that bad. It rides fine though, much better than I expected with low profile tires than I thought

pbcrazy
04-24-2015, 01:35 PM
Decided I'm going to go further with my engine bay wire tuck/clean up. I feel like it's one of the few things that really makes my car look different than a stock one (I like it like that), and it's free so why not? I do not plan on doing a full tuck/relocating coolant tank/etc, just cleaning up a bit more. So if anybody has expertise with this, this is what I'm planning. Help/opinions is appreciated (in order of things I'm not sure about how to do down to just general plans):

Green: The Drive Cable. I really don't know how to handle it to be honest, it doesn't like to move much. But it is just so ugly. Any opinions here?
Dark Red:: This one might be kinda tricky, I would like to remove that cover totally, which of course leaves like 4 connectors exposed. I will probably tuck them into the fender if they will fit. I plan to leave the reservoir (unless it's easy to move down?)
Red:: Injector connectors. Current plan is to detach them from the dual-plastic holder thing and turn the injectors around so the connectors will be under the fuel rail. Any problem with this idea?
Yellow: The secondary windshield washer tank, I haven't had a chance to look that closely at it but is it just one hose to the upper tank and hoses to the headlight washers? I don't really need to delete this but I plugged my headlight washers years ago and don't see the need to keep it.
Magenta: Should be easy, just using the length of the 034 adapters to pull the injector harness down near the PCV hose.
Blue: This should be easy, just drop and zip tie the engine harness about 6" down so it's not visible
Brown: Junkyard has 3 b5's so I'll finally (hopefully) be able to get a rain tray cover and hide all that crap
http://i1194.photobucket.com/albums/aa376/pbcrazy96/2245C7BE-8519-4B6F-9DED-A77999B22486_zpsbiuxfrqw.jpg

A1 A2 German
04-24-2015, 02:24 PM
I have a whole list of clean ups for you.

From semi-big to simple.

If you want to knock it out of the park place your battery in the trunk, place your abs where your battery was, and simply rotate your p/s reservoir under your intake manifold. You take that oem mess of a wiring harness assembly and place it here: (updating thread brb)


Take off the black p/s reservoir cover and trash. Take the entire wiring cluster and bracket and move it under the drivers headlight. Rotate p/s reservoir under intake:

http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e259/Blakelikesfood333/Audi%20Final%20Chapter%20Build/Wiring_zps5748ff71.jpg (http://s41.photobucket.com/user/Blakelikesfood333/media/Audi%20Final%20Chapter%20Build/Wiring_zps5748ff71.jpg.html)


Under mount (under intake manifold) coolant hard pipe:

http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e259/Blakelikesfood333/Audi%20Final%20Chapter%20Build/AudiTurboBuild013_zps2b4f3cc0.jpg
(http://s41.photobucket.com/user/Blakelikesfood333/media/Audi%20Final%20Chapter%20Build/AudiTurboBuild013_zps2b4f3cc0.jpg.html)

Brake booster line clean up. Gets rid of that squirly pig tail oem brake booster line. Also the check valve you see has two vacuum sources now with in the battery tray. What's this mean? You've just deleated two lines going into the engine bay. You have a source for your boost gauge and boost controller if you have one.

http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e259/Blakelikesfood333/Audi%20Final%20Chapter%20Build/AudiTurboBuild014_zps5334ba4e.jpg (http://s41.photobucket.com/user/Blakelikesfood333/media/Audi%20Final%20Chapter%20Build/AudiTurboBuild014_zps5334ba4e.jpg.html)

Battery cable relocate whether in trunk or oem location. The cable either way drops to the back of the head and hidden:

Blue is oem route
Yellow is new route
4-8g Tee behind the head.

You'll also use 6'+ less wire this new route.

http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e259/Blakelikesfood333/Audi%20Final%20Chapter%20Build/BatteryCablerelocate_zps17f46340.jpg (http://s41.photobucket.com/user/Blakelikesfood333/media/Audi%20Final%20Chapter%20Build/BatteryCablerelocate_zps17f46340.jpg.html)

N82 relocate.

Extend the N82 harness 1' and now install inside the fender. Blue is the oem line. Yellow is the new path that drops down the fenders to the subframe, travels along it, and goes up to the intake manifold from underneath.

http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e259/Blakelikesfood333/Audi%20Final%20Chapter%20Build/EvapLineReroute001_zps635eee83.jpg (http://s41.photobucket.com/user/Blakelikesfood333/media/Audi%20Final%20Chapter%20Build/EvapLineReroute001_zps635eee83.jpg.html)


Cut out spare tire well:


http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e259/Blakelikesfood333/Audi%20Final%20Chapter%20Build/Audiwheelwell001.jpg (http://s41.photobucket.com/user/Blakelikesfood333/media/Audi%20Final%20Chapter%20Build/Audiwheelwell001.jpg.html)

http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e259/Blakelikesfood333/Audi%20Final%20Chapter%20Build/Audiwheelwell003.jpg (http://s41.photobucket.com/user/Blakelikesfood333/media/Audi%20Final%20Chapter%20Build/Audiwheelwell003.jpg.html)

The compartment in front of the battery holds the emissions evap box (or have some one code out the whole system)
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e259/Blakelikesfood333/Audi%20Final%20Chapter%20Build/StingerWheelWell_zpsf0c2e47d.jpg (http://s41.photobucket.com/user/Blakelikesfood333/media/Audi%20Final%20Chapter%20Build/StingerWheelWell_zpsf0c2e47d.jpg.html)

Here's good one. Undo the 100% harness, instead of that huge blob coming out of the false fire wall, have 30' of connectors under the coolant tank and your car looking like something out of the Matrix.....pull off the full engine side. Now, instead of coming out of the firewall, run it down the raintray, towards the heater hoses that drop to the back of the head. I did deleate my heater hoses so I used that large gourmet and hole. Now drop your entire harness through that and have everything come through by the back of the head. Also, now 100% of all your 02 sensor connections, and that entire blob that was under your coolant tank are now by the oem battery location. You also deleate seeing both 02 sensor wires due to traveling straight up to the rain tray:

http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e259/Blakelikesfood333/Audi%20Final%20Chapter%20Build/20141106_145701_zpsh3engtb4.jpg (http://s41.photobucket.com/user/Blakelikesfood333/media/Audi%20Final%20Chapter%20Build/20141106_145701_zpsh3engtb4.jpg.html)

S-Hose delete:

Before

http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e259/Blakelikesfood333/Audi%20Final%20Chapter%20Build/FMICBefore_zpsfdc0659f.jpg (http://s41.photobucket.com/user/Blakelikesfood333/media/Audi%20Final%20Chapter%20Build/FMICBefore_zpsfdc0659f.jpg.html)

After:

http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e259/Blakelikesfood333/Audi%20Final%20Chapter%20Build/FMICAfter_zps6690bf2e.jpg (http://s41.photobucket.com/user/Blakelikesfood333/media/Audi%20Final%20Chapter%20Build/FMICAfter_zps6690bf2e.jpg.html)


Get rid of those nasty oem fuel lines everywhere. I jacked the car up and cut off everything from under the passenger door forward and went into the trash. Tap into those hard lines with ~3/8 double wall fuel line and ran it under the car and up the spine of the transmission. The two fuel lines come up from the back of the head and tie into a billet fuel rail with this BBM Mk3 style fpr holder below. What's nice is you get to cap one end of the fuel rail, also the fuel ports (red) are pointed down towards the trans. You don't see any fuel lines. Just the top of the billet fpr. This fpr holder will bolt directly to the fuel rail and hang off the back of the intake manifold with red ports pointed down. The lines come up the dead center of the car and tie right in.

http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e259/Blakelikesfood333/Audi%20Final%20Chapter%20Build/AudiGallery007.jpg (http://s41.photobucket.com/user/Blakelikesfood333/media/Audi%20Final%20Chapter%20Build/AudiGallery007.jpg.html)

B5A4coastie
04-24-2015, 02:46 PM
I'm going to have to keep this in mind! I hate that connector bundle.

pbcrazy
04-24-2015, 02:50 PM
I have a whole list of clean ups for you.

From semi-big to simple.

If you want to knock it out of the park place your battery in the trunk, place your abs where your battery was, and simply rotate your p/s reservoir under your intake manifold. You take that oem mess of a wiring harness assembly and place it here: (updating thread brb)


Take off the black p/s reservoir cover and trash. Take the entire wiring cluster and bracket and move it under the drivers headlight. Rotate p/s reservoir under intake:

Edit: Didn't see your updates, keep them coming!
Questions as you update:

How/where did you attach the p/s reservoir under the intake mani?
On the battery relocation picture, the front right drawing I assume is the alternator, what is the other box the two wires connect to?
What is an n82 valve? Do you mean n80/purge? (If so I already stuffed it into the fender)

xdewaynex
04-24-2015, 04:00 PM
Relocating the wiring harness and shaving the studs off the firewall was one of the easiest things I have done in the bay. I still run heat, so I took a hole saw and cut out a big hole in the rain tray for my harness. I need to drill another so I can reroute my Innovate wideband sensor. Id like to do the abs relocate, but honestly dont feel like moving my battery.

A1 A2 German
04-24-2015, 04:12 PM
To flip the p/s reservoir you just use some flat stock and choose a bung to bolt it too. Drill 2 holes to bolt the reservoir too.

I'm going a little more radical. I took a transverse accessory bracket and cut it to fit the longituide block. Now the alt is ~2' lower down by the p/s pump. This clears up a HUGE gap between the top of the alt and the underside of the intake manifold. Now the coolant tank, p/s resevior, and catch can (all in aluminum) will be neatly under the intake manifold. The right side of the motor will be a 100% void and blank.

On the battery cable. The battery cable will enter the engine bay through the heater hose area and go to a 4-8g T. The T you can mount to the back of your head or top of the bell housing. One wire will travel ~2' to the left to the starter, one wire will travel ~2' to the right to the alternator. This is the T:

http://www.google.com/search?q=4+gauge+t+fitting&safe=off&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ei=UM06VduCEaa1sASA-4DIBw&ved=0CAgQ_AUoAg&biw=360&bih=615#safe=off&tbm=isch&q=4+gauge+wire+t+housing+stinger&imgrc=b90nrzhoUuAj-M%253A%3B45AHlRpob7WQ2M%3Bhttps%253A%252F%252Fwww. darvex.com%252Fstore%252Fpc%252Fcatalog%252Fspd810-f_1063_detail.jpg%3Bhttps%253A%252F%252Fwww.darvex .com%252Fstore%252Fpc%252FStinger-Gold-8-Gauge-T-Style-Power-Ground-Amp-Wire-Distribution-Block-26p10.htm%3B960%3B720

Yes, n80 valve/n82 valve (evap)


Now that I think of it you could also mount your p/s reservior where I mounted all the electrical under the drivers headlight. There's a TON of space as all that is in the bubble (curve) of the front bumper.

pbcrazy
04-24-2015, 06:32 PM
Ok immediate plans:

Reroute engine harness

Move PS Reservoir and wires under to bumper area

Delete second windshield washer reservoir (and maybe move the primary down?)

Get rid of the stock S hose from IC -> TB. Did you just use a 2.5"->2" silicone reducer, like 6" of 2" pipe, and a 45* Coupler?

Do something with the coil and injector wires, I'll have to see what the options are when I have some time

Potentially cave and delete the PCV hose and just run it to a catch can hidden below

I'm not sure if I want to mess with the fuel lines. I won't buy a new fuel rail (the whole point of this is that I'm broke), I guess I could do it with the stock rail and just have 8" of line showing (which is better than it is right now) but cutting and rerouting fuel lines sounds rather.....dangerous if I use rubber hose.

Any suggestions on the drive cable? Do you think I could move it down under the intake mani or would it put too much pressure on it and make the pedal hard?

I am extremely tempted to just say screw it and relocate my battery and stuff my coolant bottle and abs module in the false firewall. I can easily design/print any brackets I need along the way so it would be pretty cheap for me to do. Are there any other options on where to put the battery besides in place of the spare tire? Maybe get a box and put it where the CD switcher sits?

xdewaynex
04-24-2015, 06:54 PM
Does it not matter about the p/s reservoir being lower than the steering rack if you relocate it under the headlight? I just assumed you would want it higher up like the coolant.

pbcrazy
04-24-2015, 07:06 PM
That's a good point. The rack/reservoir has a pump though correct? If it does I'm not sure how much it would matter. Could be totally wrong on this though.

As it continues to get harder to fight off the thought of tucking my bay, how would you even go about moving the abs module? I would assume you could just extend the two lines running to the coolant res, but the ABS module has a bunch of small hard tubes. I can't imagine they would just move 2' over easily

A1 A2 German
04-24-2015, 08:09 PM
- Look up my thread along the lines of : S-Hose Delete or, just search the past 30 threads I've done and it'll give you the DIY with all the parts. The whole thing was like $35

- For coil wires I use a coil pack heat shield sliced in half, this way it does not place the coil packs themselves in "an oven" and shows off all the billet spacers and R8 packs and such. Also, 100% of all the wiring harness is hidden.

- Pull the pancake valve, and hard line that wraps around the head to the block breather and trash. Plug the hole in the induction boot with a large 1" nylon plug found in the "Help Section" of any Pepboys, Autozone, etc. Buy the 034 Motorsport drop in bung and run a line to a catch can. Stay away from the passenger side of the engine bay and full false fire wall so you don't smell fumes. Place on lower drivers side frame rail, below headlight inside engine bay, etc.

- I believe the p/s reservoir maybe still a tad higher then the rack even under the headlight. If not, then it's a no go, regardless of where it goes you want it above the rack.

- You can place the battery any where you want. Buy a cheapo black black battery box, shove it against the back seats, or cd changer area...where ever you want (just secure the box). You don't have to cut anything out as I did, I just wanted everything hidden even in the trunk. You should easily be able to place a battery in either corner of the fenders.

-I run the throttle cable under the intake manifold.

-Some people just go all out and place the abs, p/s reservoir, and coolant tank where the battery was. However, when you do this, you end up added more hoses and more extensions and longer hoses as now all the power fluid has to travel farther. I would do coolant and abs where the battery was, and mount the p/s reservoir some where up front.

xdewaynex
04-25-2015, 04:32 AM
If Im not mistaken, Alex (needinganaudi) just bent the oem brake lines enough to move his abs into the false firewall.

pbcrazy
04-25-2015, 01:48 PM
So this is my list for the battery relocation for the moment being. I plan to mount either in place of the CD changer, or where the little box is on the passenger side.

Sealed Battery Box, $52.50: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006VU5W92/ref=ox_sc_act_title_5?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER
2 gauge Red Cable, $36.20: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LIB42KE/ref=ox_sc_act_title_4?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A6AY1HFZHO49U
Battery Terminals, $6.95: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0054T95ZS/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER
100 Amp ANL fuse (2), $7.03: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005EUTA3E/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER
ANL fuse holder, $5.67: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002PUI82/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER
4 gauge T-block, $16.82: http://www.amazon.com/Stinger-SPD511-Ground-Distribution-T-Block/dp/B001F6W4FW/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1429994628&sr=1-1&keywords=4+gauge+t



I also need about 3' of 2 gauge negative cable, but that will be cheaper in store than online. Total is probably going to be ~$120, You can buy some kits for like $100 but they don't include fuses or a sealed box (which is effectively illegal), Unless I already have a sealed battery (I probably do), then I can buy a $10 box and bring the total to ~$80.

Questions:

Would 4 gauge cables work? Would save a couple bucks and would allow me to use the T block (could not find a 2 gauge one)
And to make sure I have the wiring understood, I would have:

Alternator -> eye terminal -> 2/4 Gauge wire -> T-block
Starter -> Eye terminal -> 2/4 Gauge wire -> T-block
T-block -> 2/4 Gauge wire -> Fuse -> 2/4 Gauge wire -> battery in trunk




Is that the basic idea? Seems much simpler than I was expecting.

A1 A2 German
04-25-2015, 02:16 PM
I use 4 gauge for everything (I used 8 gauge for 10+ years in many cars with zero issues).


The blocks and stuff including Stinger 4g are a great buy on Ebay. You just need to contact them to adjust the shipping price. I stopped using fuses, look for Stinger 140amp or 150 amp or 200 amp circuit breaker. They are awesome. No more blowing fuses. Also, if you go Stinger you no longer crimp anything, and you use ZERO eyelets or terminals. Everything is 100% Allen bung including the battery terminals. Slide the wire in, and tighten the Allen bung. You can even buy Stinger non crimp Allen bung eyelets.

You got your list about right. You'll need two eyelets no matter what, one for starter and one for alternator. I placed one circuit breaker ~1' from the battery in the trunk, the wire travels up to the rain tray were I installed another circuit breaker (not really needed). I did this so I can kill power from the front of the car instead of always poping the trunk. You simply press a button a boom, you'll killed power, that easy.

From the rain tray were the second circuit breaker is, the cable goes simply ~2 feet from the rain tray to the T secured to the back of the head.

What's nice about have that second circuit breaker is you now have a live 12volt power source. I tapped into it for my air horns, and some other stuff so cleans up the engine bay more.

Really easy, second circuit breaker would go by heater hoses:

http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e259/Blakelikesfood333/Audi%20Final%20Chapter%20Build/20150425_143201_zpswf8qznke.jpg (http://s41.photobucket.com/user/Blakelikesfood333/media/Audi%20Final%20Chapter%20Build/20150425_143201_zpswf8qznke.jpg.html)

pbcrazy
04-25-2015, 03:16 PM
Okay, new updated list:

Sealed Battery Box, $52.50: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006VU5W92/ref=ox_sc_act_title_5?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER
Battery Terminals, $6.95: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0054T95ZS/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER
Stinger 4 Gauge T, $12.96: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Stinger-HPM-4-Gauge-T-Style-Power-Ground-Amp-Wire-Distribution-Block-SPD511-/400745277287?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item5d4e47a767
Stinger 150 Amp (likely overkill) Circuit breaker, $28.75: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Stinger-SGP901501-Circuit-Breaker-150-Amp-with-Reset-Disconnect-1-0ga-or-4ga-/271615465020?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3f3d8b163c

I found this stinger kit which has 17ft of 4 gauge wire (positive), 3 ft of 4 gauge wire (negative), 4 eyelets, 100 amp fuse w/holder, and assorted other stuff that I really don't need, but it's $26.78 for the whole kit. Anything wrong that I'm not seeing? Seems like a great deal:
http://www.amazon.com/Soundquest-SQK4ANL-CCA-Gauge-Wiring/dp/B001F61R9Q

If I go with that kit I would likely put an inline fuse near the battery, and put the circuit breaker up front like you mentioned.

(BTW: What check valve did you use for the brake booster line?)

A1 A2 German
04-25-2015, 04:43 PM
That Sound Quest is a good deal, either or. One saves you money, the other give convence of no crimping and no fuses up to you.

I'll have to look, however it's a GM Check Valve. It's yellow and black, however I painted the yellow. For the mean time you can try Ebay: GM check valve (or what ever word they use).

Edit: The 150amp is good, a few times when I did long cranks (forgot to turn on fuel pump) I popped the 100 amp. Normal cranks would not pop a 100 am0, but a long hard or no start may, 150amp is perfect some go up to 200amp but 150 is good.

A1 A2 German
04-28-2015, 10:40 AM
I'm going to be moving the p/s reservoir to completely out of sight from all angles. I was going to place it forward around the drivers headlight, however the inconvenience and placement when needing to be in the service position make it kinda a pita as would basically be attached to the core support. Best place for it (which will also delete one p/s hose out of sight too) is once again in the rain tray. I don't think I can squeeze it just to the right of the master cylinder, if so that's where she goes, if not will go right under/next to the heater core ports directly to the left of the brake booster with something like this:

http://www.aseturbo.com/images/uploads/power-steering-resivoir-vs-ve.jpg

The feeds will drop straight down through the rain tray. I'm going to make individual holes and grommets for each item entering/exiting the rain tray from underneath, or like the other guy did is take out the angle grinder and inlarge the entire heater hose port area into one large box/rectangle. There are two p/s reservoir hoses, one large (to p/s pump), one smaller (from rack to p/s pump). The smaller diameter ~3/8 hose that did travel from the rack ~4' to the oem p/s reservoir will not be shorten to ~1' or less and travel from the rack straight up into the rain tray so will disappear. The larger p/s hose from the p/s pump will be tossed and will get a ~4' long one to snake from the p/s pump, down low across the oil pan area up towards the back of the head/top of bell housing up into the rain tray from underneath.

The idea is to bring everything into one corridor (electrical, hoses, fuel) from the dead center underside of the raintray to the back of the head area. The visible viewing area is like ~7" from the back of the head to the underside of the false firewall rain tray. I'll take some aluminum plate (what we are making our heat shields from) and make a slip over cover (no bottom so can just pull off) that will mask the little you can see between the head and the raintray.

pbcrazy
04-28-2015, 11:54 AM
Problem with the rain tray is you would have to run hoses back up to the cooler loop at the front of the car, which wouldn't look super clean. A4rob put his behind the aluminum sheet that covers the left and right sides, but like you said it would be hard to fill there. That cover might be interesting. I'm not sure if I would be too worried about it though, not many people are going to bend over the head to see

A1 A2 German
04-28-2015, 12:19 PM
Lol, I forgot about that thing.

I havn't run a cooler loop in 10 years in one of the hottest cities in the US. I deleated that and just that alone cleaned up the bay. If anyone thinks it's required I've shown that it isn't but if anyone wanted you could simply place an inline cooler (like an inline fuel pump) that requires zero extra lines.

At anytime you could just add it and not have to buy new lines:

http://www.google.com/search?q=inline+steering+cooler&safe=off&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ei=7N0_VbjfIsGANt3OgIgD&ved=0CAgQ_AUoAg&biw=360&bih=615#imgrc=a-Z_0kjuJ-N6OM%253A%3BzgOCd6WCG_nzDM%3Bhttp%253A%252F%252Fst atic.speedwaymotors.com%252Frs%252Fcmr%252FTechPic s%252Fonepass.jpg%3Bhttp%253A%252F%252Fwww.speedwa ymotors.com%252FTech%252FTransmission-Coolers%3B345%3B336

pbcrazy
04-28-2015, 05:03 PM
Interesting, I've never really thought about it but I guess you are you right, there really is no reason to have one unless on a non-tracked passenger car (unless you are towing or something). Well that's one more thing to trash. I still think I'm going to print a new bracket and hide it somewhere behind the headlight, that way I won't have to run all new lines, it will be hidden, and if I design it correctly I should be able to fill it simply by popping out my corner light.

How did you go about moving the ABS module? Did you just bend new lines for it in the rain tray?

thedownwardsprl
04-28-2015, 05:17 PM
Okay pbcrazy i have thought to do some clean up because it is so fun forgive me for the red but i like it. I never see any one paint their intake duct so i did as my first step. I'm also doing it to the ps cover as we speak. So what color should my valve cover and engine bay be? http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/04/28/b6096d9d1b5326b0d9b1742cc566ce8a.jpg. I was focused on other things pb but this project is cheap lengthy and fun

pbcrazy
04-28-2015, 05:24 PM
I've never been a fan of painted plastics, but it is your car so do as you wish. I'm not sure what you mean by the color of your engine bay, painting it will be a very difficult and time consuming endeavor. What I did (you can see a picture of my bay on the first page) was just go to town cleaning all the dirt/oil/etc. from all over so the paint looks like it would rolling out of the factory, I will also clear coat it at some point to give it gloss. On a silver car, if you aren't doing any deletes/moving around I would go with a flat or wrinkle black valve cover personally, looks good, not too flashy, and easy-ish to keep clean. I personally think bright/neon colors look absurd

thedownwardsprl
04-28-2015, 05:45 PM
Yes i agree with the absurd colors but i was bored and it's my wife's car. And yes i am going to do the engine bay. BelIeve it or not the car is gold lmao

thedownwardsprl
04-28-2015, 05:46 PM
That's why i want to do the valve cover the same even tho i hate her paint job. The original 97 puke gold

pbcrazy
04-28-2015, 05:49 PM
And yes i am going to do the engine bay.


As in you are planning to pull the engine, wiring harness, fuel lines, abs, coolant, etc. and paint the engine bay? Why?

adam044
04-28-2015, 05:53 PM
Okay pbcrazy i have thought to do some clean up because it is so fun forgive me for the red but i like it. I never see any one paint their intake duct so i did as my first step. I'm also doing it to the ps cover as we speak. So what color should my valve cover and engine bay be? http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/04/28/b6096d9d1b5326b0d9b1742cc566ce8a.jpg. I was focused on other things pb but this project is cheap lengthy and fun

Beat you to it. https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7630/17228932385_ccfd6fa341_o.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/sfsMmn)image (https://flic.kr/p/sfsMmn) by adam_044 (https://www.flickr.com/people/111519890@N03/), on Flickr

adam044
04-28-2015, 05:54 PM
As in you are planning to pull the engine, wiring harness, fuel lines, abs, coolant, etc. and paint the engine bay? Why?

Because that's the proper way to do a tuck! Lol. Not something I'd do on a 16 year old car that's for sure.

pbcrazy
04-28-2015, 06:13 PM
Actually I beat both of you too it:
http://i1194.photobucket.com/albums/aa376/pbcrazy96/IMG_0700_zps730a5efb.jpg
Really don't know how I liked that look. Especially when compared to where it is now:
http://i1194.photobucket.com/albums/aa376/pbcrazy96/2245C7BE-8519-4B6F-9DED-A77999B22486_zpss7boobjw.jpg
And where it will be by the end of the summer


Back on topic:
Just ordered the first few parts for my war! Just basic stuff I will be needing along the way: soldering iron, solder, heatshrink, new coil connectors for redoing my icm delete, as well as one of these guys:
http://c1552172.r72.cf0.rackcdn.com/78372_x600.jpg
Obviously it will be visible, but I think it will look much better than the wiring harness (especially after I open it up to solder in the new connectors), and you can still see my adapters/hardware which IMO looks pretty nice.

Murph_129
04-28-2015, 06:31 PM
http://i1194.photobucket.com/albums/aa376/pbcrazy96/IMG_0700_zps730a5efb.jpg


[down] [poop] [poop]

lol.. sorry..

pbcrazy
04-28-2015, 06:37 PM
[down] [poop] [poop]

lol.. sorry..

Ya I know, not one of my finer moments lol

adam044
04-28-2015, 06:44 PM
yeah that gloss red wasn't doing it.

I'm okay with how mine is, adds some color so whatever. Not like it's a 40k car or something. Makes it different.

thedownwardsprl
04-28-2015, 07:12 PM
Why because i gotta pull the tranny anyway.... and why do we do any of this... because I'm bored.... it's fun. ...I'm making a sleeper so yeah i want the engine to look good

thedownwardsprl
04-28-2015, 07:15 PM
And yeah pb that cover was a bit much red. But it looks great now

pbcrazy
04-28-2015, 07:38 PM
Why because i gotta pull the tranny anyway.... and why do we do any of this... because I'm bored.... it's fun. ...I'm making a sleeper so yeah i want the engine to look good
I don't think you realize how much work painting the engine bay currently actually is...but if you want to do it more power to you. If you want to make the engine bay look good and have that much time I would recommend doing what I, and German, are doing (deleting unnecessary crap, hiding reservoirs, tucking wires)

cjt671
04-28-2015, 07:45 PM
What do you think about an after market coolant expansion tank? I was looking at them and they could be a good solution for the coolant tank..

A1 A2 German
04-28-2015, 07:57 PM
^

*Cough

http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e259/Blakelikesfood333/Audi%20Final%20Chapter%20Build/CoolantTanks001.jpg (http://s41.photobucket.com/user/Blakelikesfood333/media/Audi%20Final%20Chapter%20Build/CoolantTanks001.jpg.html)

Pbcrazy, unfortunately I believe you'll have to extend both lines to reach under the headlight. Under the fender works as the reservoir is still close to the rack.

cjt671
04-28-2015, 07:59 PM
^

*Cough



Lol looks like I'm late to the party..
What diameter fittings are those?

pbcrazy
04-28-2015, 08:02 PM
Why not just use the stock expansion tank? All you would need to do is use a new (3/4"?) hose from the bottom to the bottom of the radiator, and a new smaller hose from the coolant hard pipe to the top. You could do a new tank, but why spend money on a nice tank that will be hidden?

I know I will have to extend the power steering lines, though I may try to put it in my fender near the windshield washer fluid tank. I was speaking/asking about how you went about the abs module relocation (specially did you bend all new lines for it in the raintray?)

A1 A2 German
04-28-2015, 08:21 PM
The smaller is around 3/8", the larger is either 3/4 or 1".

The ABS is the only mod I havn't done, each time I go to do it something pops up with one of my bikes (incase I get stuck and have to drive for a new line). I have the tube bender already. What I do know:

- The oem abs harness will reach the battery tray
- All the lines (from mutiple sources) can be rebent and new ones are not needed.
- The abs uses mutliple sized fittings (up to three thread sizes, if you fudged one up keep in mind not all the same).
- There is a small secret (if making new lines or mess them up, etc) regaurding the rear lines. Most people fear fudging this up...the reason is the rear lines can be 12' long and travel the entire uncarriage of the car. That's a big deal opposed to dropping in a 2.5' line up front. So many people reflare and tap into the rear line upfront and make longer if the want more room. The secert is following down the line on the drivers side undercarriage subframe area and there is an union! It's hidden, but there. Now, if you remake a line you don't have to reflare the oem line and can unscrew the old and rescrew in male into that union. I'm itching to start.

pbcrazy
04-28-2015, 08:27 PM
I have no problem rebending/flaring lines, but I can't let me car down so I better get it right the first time lol. The Abs will likely be one of the last things I do (looking around 3 months to complete everything), so hopefully you will know how to do it perfectly and I won't have to worry.....or maybe I should pick up an OEM line from the joint on when I go to the junkyard...

thedownwardsprl
04-28-2015, 08:40 PM
Alright man so I have painted a few b5s and b6s man. ..i understand the work the car i own was meant to be a parts car as well as the other two. .i have to admit I'm not that great a painter. But I'm telling ya man people think they are buying THE car when the engine looks nice. I've gone as far as to paint the block and heads. In the past. .. now. ..you are right. I would rather do timing on a vr6 before i do this but honestly this is much more rewarding. Your car came with an awesome red paint job.... mine came with dookey. Ill let the clear coat peel but i want that engine to boing

Murph_129
04-29-2015, 06:56 AM
http://c1552172.r72.cf0.rackcdn.com/78372_x600.jpg



Son of a #$*(#!!.. I completely forgot to order this! [headbang] [headbang].. I ordered my 2.0 conversion and was gonna get the black channel. I forgot about it completely until I saw this..


i want that engine to boing

Me too buddy. [up]

Can't wait until this weekend to start my makeover.

pbcrazy
04-30-2015, 04:03 PM
Picked up 4 connectors for my ICM delete, anybody know how which wires to solder together before/after ICM?
Also went to the junkyard, got a coolant hard pipe (to cut up to mount under the intake manifold), a battery cover, and rubber molding for my heatshield. Out of the 2 A4's and 3 passats they had, not a single one had a rain tray cover [headbang]

A1 A2 German
04-30-2015, 04:38 PM
The best bet is get a brand new one from ECS, as they aren't expensive and hard to bet brand new unfaded unscratched.

Found a better route for the fuel lines and picked up line, ordered the aluminum p/s tank and line for the rain tray, and will start on the abs once a cable comes in for my bike. Heading into garage to inlarge the heater hose hole for all the goodies that are going to pass through it.


-Fuel line is -6AN (or 3/8" works)

-Large p/s hose is -12AN

(EDITED THREAD: It originally said -10AN, -10AN just showed up, it's pretty much a pita to get on so bumped up to -12AN line)

R490
04-30-2015, 04:39 PM
Red under the hood looks great!

cjt671
04-30-2015, 06:27 PM
The best bet is get a brand new one from ECS, as they aren't expensive and hard to bet brand new unfaded unscratched.

Found a better route for the fuel lines and picked up line, ordered the aluminum p/s tank and line for the rain tray, and will start on the abs once a cable comes in for my bike. Heading into garage to inlarge the heater hose hole for all the goodies that are going to pass through it.


-Fuel line is -6AN (or 3/8" works)

-Large p/s hose is -10AN

Do you know the diameters of the hoses that connect to the reservoir?

cjt671
04-30-2015, 06:31 PM
Power steering that is

A1 A2 German
04-30-2015, 07:00 PM
Do you know the diameters of the hoses that connect to the reservoir?

That would be the -12AN (large hose)

Small one is probably -6AN (small hose)

If placing the reservoir in rain tray you do not need to replace the smaller (suspected -6AN) line as it'll even have to be shortened. It's the -10AN that will need to be lengthened.

(EDITED THREAD: It originally said -10AN, -10AN just showed up, it's pretty much a pita to get on so bumped up to -12AN line)

adam044
04-30-2015, 07:03 PM
Red under the hood looks great!

To common.

pbcrazy
04-30-2015, 07:15 PM
That would be the -10AN (large hose)

Small one is probably -6AN (small hose)

If placing the reservoir in rain tray you do not need to replace the smaller (suspected -6AN) line as it'll even have to be shortened. It's the -10AN that will need to be lengthened.

I'd be interested to see how you plan to mount the reservoir in the rain tray, while also hiding the lines, while keeping the line to the pump sloped downward at all times.


... but.. yours is red?
Don't approach things/people on audizine with logic

Murph_129
04-30-2015, 07:15 PM
To common.

... but.. yours is red?

cjt671
04-30-2015, 07:20 PM
http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/04/30/7b6937eba8ef389ef68aa1ae82a9f93f.jpg

I like the wrinkle red to match my valve covers.. And I feel like it will mount in the stock location and look a little more "showy" also less trouble then relocation..

cjt671
04-30-2015, 07:21 PM
What do you think about an inline filler neck for the rad? And a small overflow tank somewhere

A1 A2 German
04-30-2015, 08:06 PM
^

You could do that like this: http://www.kartek.com/Media/Images/Large/CBR-Inlettee.jpg


However! It's kinda meh. You are deleting one tank (the coolant reservoir), and then.........adding another. You subtract one, then add one. Sure, you could always hide the small one someplace but still need lines going to it. What I'm going to do is delete the aluminum reservoir where the oem location is now, and do a ~inline reservoir (almost). Basically keeping the reservoir, but bringing it in line to everything so is doesn't have all these feeds to it.

cjt671
04-30-2015, 08:50 PM
Where would I route the coolant supply hose? I'm sure I could figure out but my car is at the park and ride..

pbcrazy
05-01-2015, 08:25 PM
Just ordered some of the battery relocation parts, as well as some H&R sport springs. I had anticipated purchasing ST coilovers, but after a lot of thought I decided that for how little drive, and the fact that I would likely never change the ride height after initially setting it, I decided it is not worth 3x the cost. If down the rode I change my mind I will just buy the coilovers, springs have a pretty good resale value. This also means my engine bay stuff can move a bit faster [up]

cjt671
05-01-2015, 10:25 PM
Yeah, I haven't changed ride height once.. Considered raising it a few times after slight scrapage but never gathered enough effort to do so..

adam044
05-02-2015, 05:54 AM
Welcome to the HR club. Should of got race springs though. :)

pbcrazy
05-04-2015, 01:55 PM
Got a couple things done today: Redid my ICM delete (waiting on the cover to cover up the electrical tape/wiring), hid my injector wiring (routing the harness under the intake manifold), deleted the secondary windshield washer tank as well as the headlight washer pump and hoses, and moved the bundle next to the power steering down and out of sight. I haven't cleaned anything up yet because it's hot as anything and I didn't feel like it, but It's looking better. Still a lot to go
http://i1194.photobucket.com/albums/aa376/pbcrazy96/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpsqqwjextl.jpg
http://i1194.photobucket.com/albums/aa376/pbcrazy96/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpszrqlpgi4.jpg
http://i1194.photobucket.com/albums/aa376/pbcrazy96/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zps4vmnjbhi.jpg

Next move is to move the coolant pipe and the drive cable under the intake manifold. Then the battery relocation, then moving the reservoirs out of sight

pbcrazy
05-04-2015, 02:01 PM
Also, question:
When I was around the power steering area I noticed a pump of some sort (top of it is circled in yellow) under the ABS pump. Theres two nipples going into it, circled in blue is a vacuum hose that goes onto one of them (connects to the vacuum bag-thing under the throttle body, I believe for cruise control?). The other one's position is circled in green, but there is nothing on it. No hose, no cap, it's just open. I can get a picture of it if this doesn't make sense, but is something supposed to be there?
http://i1194.photobucket.com/albums/aa376/pbcrazy96/image_zpsua1z8s9u.jpg

cjt671
05-04-2015, 02:02 PM
Mine was that way too.. I thought something was missing but probably not since its that way on both of ours..

cjt671
05-04-2015, 02:03 PM
Noticed it when I routed those vac lines under the power steering hose

A1 A2 German
05-04-2015, 07:47 PM
It is the: Cruise Control Actuator Pump

I like to refer to it as the it's more common name:






































































Trash

pbcrazy
05-04-2015, 07:54 PM
Ya my cruise control has never worked for more than a couple minutes. Is this the check valve you used?:
http://www.amazon.com/ACDelco-90304535-Original-Equipment-Booster/dp/B000S2QF6I
(for the brake booster line)


Also, how the heck does this work?
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e259/Blakelikesfood333/Audi%20Final%20Chapter%20Build/AudiTurboBuild013_zps2b4f3cc0.jpg
(http://s41.photobucket.com/user/Blakelikesfood333/media/Audi%20Final%20Chapter%20Build/AudiTurboBuild013_zps2b4f3cc0.jpg.html)
It would seem to me that there needs to be a 60* bend of something between the pipe and the hose leading to the radiator, unless you are running it with a kink in that hose from the bend (or the pipe at an angle?) [confused]

ray4624
05-04-2015, 08:41 PM
you are missing some pieces

Did a couple things this weekend:

1) Installed a Newsouth Power Gasket (got a great deal on it brand-new), because I had the intake manifold off...

2) Relocated the upper coolant pipe (which normally sits above the intake manifold) to below the intake manifold. The main reason for doing this is to avoid having to drain/lose coolant EVERY time I want to remove the intake manifold. So far I only have pictures of the coolant pipe relocation without the intake manifold re-installed... but I've driven maybe 25 miles on it so far (in 4 separate trips) and don't think anything is leaking.

It consists of a B6 (genuine Audi part) coolant flange, some silicone couplers, bunch of hose clamps, custom adapter for the turbo coolant feed line, 45-degree aluminum pipe, a cut-down upper coolant pipe, and a shortened coolant hose from coolant pipe to oil cooler.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v132/4x4pede/Audi%20A4/0417152023_zpsripftmrj.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v132/4x4pede/Audi%20A4/0417152023a_zpsysqzt9ax.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v132/4x4pede/Audi%20A4/0417152024a_zpsxn7aczmy.jpg

pbcrazy
05-04-2015, 08:44 PM
Ya I saw metalman's approach, but German's looks much simpler (and cheaper)....if it works

A1 A2 German
05-04-2015, 09:49 PM
Yes that check vavle appears to be the one. You pull off (if needed) that white nipple vacuum pull, if you want a second vacuum source

What does need to be explained as it looks odd, is the bottom hose (upper rad hose) simply will bend over the 45 degrees to fit the neck of the radiator. It will not kink, fold, or distort and look like is supposed to do that. It runs at a directly 45degree angle from the rad to the back of head.

Not sure if mentioned, it's either a B6 or B7 rear coolant flange. I believe I pluged one bottom port (which is for the heater).

My coolant pipe installs just as seen in my picture :

The top nipple is for the oil cooler
Middle nipple is for coolant reservior
Bottom nipple is for turbo

A1 A2 German
05-04-2015, 10:01 PM
New P/S resevior and final under mount coolant pipe (really no different other then done nicer till I do the hybrid inline coolant under intake manifold reservior ).
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e259/Blakelikesfood333/Audi%20Final%20Chapter%20Build/20150504_215835_zps18bcqart.jpg (http://s41.photobucket.com/user/Blakelikesfood333/media/Audi%20Final%20Chapter%20Build/20150504_215835_zps18bcqart.jpg.html)

cjt671
05-04-2015, 10:06 PM
Will that fit 5/8" hose? Right side^ also will you be running an inline filter?

cjt671
05-04-2015, 10:08 PM
Or no ps filter?

A1 A2 German
05-04-2015, 10:35 PM
On the p/s resevior:

The smaller left nipple is -6AN (3/8), larger right nipple is -12AN (not sure off top of my head...just buy -10AN..believe it's 3/4" or so).

There's a smaller filter baffle inside the unit, and you can add a mini strainer if you want.


(EDITED THREAD: It originally said -10AN, -10AN just showed up, it's pretty much a pita to get on so bumped up to -12AN line)

cjt671
05-04-2015, 10:44 PM
Can't find -10an locally.. [emoji107]🏻

A1 A2 German
05-04-2015, 11:01 PM
If you do find it it's $14-18 a foot! Wtf! (Braided nylon)

Or, $5 a foot here: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Black-NYLON-cover-braided-1500-PSI-10AN-AN10-Oil-Fuel-Gas-Line-Hose-Foot-NH-10-/290825578072?hash=item43b68e2658&vxp=mtr

I bought 5', going under heater hose core ports.

(EDITED THREAD: It originally said -10AN, -10AN just showed up, it's pretty much a pita to get on so bumped up to -12AN line)

pbcrazy
05-05-2015, 06:18 AM
What does need to be explained as it looks odd, is the bottom hose (upper rad hose) simply will bend over the 45 degrees to fit the neck of the radiator. It will not kink, fold, or distort and look like is supposed to do that. It runs at a directly 45degree angle from the rad to the back of head.

You don't have any leaking problems like that? It would seem to me that it would put a lot of pressure on the coolant flange

xdewaynex
05-05-2015, 07:52 AM
Ive done the same as A1 A2 German, and I havent had problems/leaks. The oem rubber is flexible enough that it doesnt put any pressure on the flange. I tried using a rubber hose from Autozone and it was just way too stiff and caused the flange to lift from the head.

pbcrazy
05-05-2015, 11:23 AM
Ive done the same as A1 A2 German, and I havent had problems/leaks. The oem rubber is flexible enough that it doesnt put any pressure on the flange. I tried using a rubber hose from Autozone and it was just way too stiff and caused the flange to lift from the head.

So the pipe will actually be at like a 45* angle under the intake manifold? Would something like a 60* silicone coupler on the pipe -> flange work better than a 90, or does a 90 work fine (I assume there will be a little flexibility at the coupler and it will bend towards the pipe to compensate for the 45*)

A1 A2 German
05-05-2015, 01:27 PM
Yes, the pipe is going to take the shortest path from the back of the head to the radiator sitting at an angle. You can do any path you want, yet will have that many more connections a 90 bends and zebra clamps. When you make one bend, you have to correct the bend back further down the path. This is a straight shot as clean and simple as you can get. The recipe is as follows if building from scratch.

X1 ~1' of ~1" straight pipe with three barbs
X1 B6 coolant flange
X2 45degree elbows

However if you introduced a 45 degree bend up front how would you connect to the radiator? You'd have to splice in yet anothor connection and more clamps and then a 45 to replace the 90 oem you just cut.

What's nice about this kit is that rear black 90 you see....is nothing more then a second duplicate upper oem hose cut down. That one there could forseeabley be easliy replaced with a bonnified 45.

I had bought a fresh upper, used that to replace the existing upper so it'd be soft and would mold to a 45. Then used my old one, to cut down to make the rear. The rear I guess I could just toss and buy a real 45, but finding a long, quick connect, oem front, in s solid 45 would be another story.

ray4624
05-05-2015, 01:58 PM
Did the original coolant overflow work with your setup?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

A1 A2 German
05-05-2015, 02:26 PM
Yes, really the only difference from my aluminum coolant tank vs an oem plastic tank is the -6AN hose barb location. Oem location points towards the headlights, mine points towards the head.

I did this as it's ~4" shorter and pointed the barb downwards so the line gets kinda hidden as comes from up underneath the car to the aluminum tank. This line goes to the hard coolant pipe center barb (just like oem) and is maybe 7" long.

ray4624
05-05-2015, 02:48 PM
did you just seal the barbs with some teflon?
I like the idea of having the AN fitting as my coolant to turbo line is braided now anyways.

Sorry for the thread jack

A1 A2 German
05-05-2015, 04:01 PM
The first edition I attempted to make threads for the brass barbs best I could and then sealed the whole base with JB Weld. The wall thickness of the hard coolant pipe only provides so much if next to nothing to make threads. I then taped off the barb tips and painted the whole thing black. That way it cleaned it all up and turned and trace amounts of grey JB Weld black.

Version 2, threads will be cut off the aluminum barbs and barbs will be welded on (like the factory pipe). As well will say "see yeah" to most the zebra (hose) clamps as going to walk it into a hydraulic store and have them press fit ends were the rubber slips over the 1" hard coolant pipe. So it literally will look oem just like your oem turbo oil return line or AC lines looks. All hard press permanent fittings...pressed on permanently.

adam044
05-06-2015, 04:43 PM
Ah hell with it all. Gut the thing , what's the worse that can happen?!

pbcrazy
05-09-2015, 06:28 PM
Just installed the h&r sport springs. To be honest I don't think it dropped more than .25" which is surprising since it's rated for 1-1.5" (and I have standard suspension), may just take some time to settle. Also the conduit doesn't fit, the harness is too thick so I'll have to figure out how to make it fit somehow

Murph_129
05-09-2015, 07:22 PM
Just installed the h&r sport springs. To be honest I don't think it dropped more than .25" which is surprising since it's rated for 1-1.5" (and I have standard suspension), may just take some time to settle. Also the conduit doesn't fit, the harness is too thick so I'll have to figure out how to make it fit somehow

Is this because of your coil conversion? Orrr?

I noticed the ECS description says it needs slight modification for the 1.8T..

A1 A2 German
05-09-2015, 07:49 PM
If talking about coils, you'll have to notch the vc.

If talking about the heater hose slot I had to feed things through one at a time. Also that entire electric hub that was under the coolant tank will remain in the raintray and not need to be feed through. Or take 30 seconds and cut a rectangle (I'm enlargering for the line for fuel line and p/s hoses). Head to an automotive paint shop and pick up 3m trim to press into your now cut rectangle to make it look finished and protect any wiring like my heat sheild which is sheet metal:

http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e259/Blakelikesfood333/Audi%20Final%20Chapter%20Build/AudiGallery005.jpg (http://s41.photobucket.com/user/Blakelikesfood333/media/Audi%20Final%20Chapter%20Build/AudiGallery005.jpg.html)

adam044
05-09-2015, 07:59 PM
Just installed the h&r sport springs. To be honest I don't think it dropped more than .25" which is surprising since it's rated for 1-1.5" (and I have standard suspension), may just take some time to settle. Also the conduit doesn't fit, the harness is too thick so I'll have to figure out how to make it fit somehow

Do you have the Alzors on yet?

pbcrazy
05-09-2015, 08:02 PM
Is this because of your coil conversion? Orrr?

I noticed the ECS description says it needs slight modification for the 1.8T..
Probably partially. I'll rewrap my harness soon and see if I can't get it to fit. I really want it to, just the test fit looked so crazy clean compared the the harness

Do you have the Alzors on yet?
Yep. I'll take a picture tomorrow when it's light

adam044
05-10-2015, 07:47 AM
You better, or else I'll have to put your toes in the freezer and nibble on them.

pbcrazy
05-10-2015, 09:48 AM
I wish the front came down about another .5", but it's better than it was. I will probably end up doing coilovers eventually though
http://i1194.photobucket.com/albums/aa376/pbcrazy96/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpsj53amqat.jpg

cjt671
05-10-2015, 09:50 AM
Hopefully they'll settle out a little lower, looks good though[emoji106]🏻

adam044
05-10-2015, 06:56 PM
Not bad! We're they new or used? If they are new the front will definitely settle down more.

pbcrazy
05-10-2015, 07:11 PM
They are new, and I only put them on the front so it should level out. This is after 180 miles driving back to my normal house (just about where I want them, I really dig it)
http://i1194.photobucket.com/albums/aa376/pbcrazy96/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpsnzlbh6xg.jpg

And before for comparison:
http://i1194.photobucket.com/albums/aa376/pbcrazy96/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpsfwbypeio.jpg

cjt671
05-10-2015, 07:24 PM
Looks great[emoji106]🏻

adam044
05-10-2015, 08:21 PM
Needs more low! Hell of a lot better than the start, holy shitt

A1 A2 German
05-10-2015, 09:15 PM
Something is up, 1"-1.5" I would go as far as say it would look lowered, however non of those pics look like anything has been installed. Odd

pbcrazy
05-10-2015, 09:18 PM
I didn't touch the rear. Rear is OEM sport, the front is bilstein tourings (standard ride height) with h&r sports. It's pretty obvious when you compare the before and after pictures, it's not slammed by anymeans (or lowered by most people's standards for that matter), but it's certainly a bit drop. I'll take a better picture of how they settled tomorrow

3 bar
05-10-2015, 09:44 PM
http://i429.photobucket.com/albums/qq15/Slodoba/Audi/2c6323ac4ab34b1d5b047e3d53706b44_zpsbda1e810.jpg
Got the solution to hiding your ps reservoir from a European b5.5 Passat

jkbhso3
05-10-2015, 10:33 PM
http://i429.photobucket.com/albums/qq15/Slodoba/Audi/2c6323ac4ab34b1d5b047e3d53706b44_zpsbda1e810.jpg
Got the solution to hiding your ps reservoir from a European b5.5 Passat
Think that would work on a 2.8?

cjt671
05-10-2015, 10:34 PM
Think that would work on a 2.8?

No reason it wouldn't, might need to trim some..

jkbhso3
05-10-2015, 10:50 PM
Looks like it should. I found the part number if anyone is curious.

3B0 119 487 C

adam044
05-11-2015, 09:24 AM
That will require trimming and mounting. This however won't. http://www.ecstuning.com/Audi-B5_A4-quattro-1.8T/ES366525/

Murph_129
05-11-2015, 09:48 AM
That will require trimming and mounting. This however won't. http://www.ecstuning.com/Audi-B5_A4-quattro-1.8T/ES366525/

I personally prefer it versus the entire side of the bay being covered.

http://i.imgur.com/xXea0tf.jpg

pbcrazy
05-11-2015, 11:48 AM
Something is up, 1"-1.5" I would go as far as say it would look lowered, however non of those pics look like anything has been installed. Odd
Here's a before/after from the same general angle to show the difference.
Before:
http://i1194.photobucket.com/albums/aa376/pbcrazy96/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpsfwbypeio.jpg

After:
http://i1194.photobucket.com/albums/aa376/pbcrazy96/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpsdaaqyu4f.jpg
http://i1194.photobucket.com/albums/aa376/pbcrazy96/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpsye36uaoi.jpg

Maybe not lowered by most people's idea, but it definitely dropped some. The front end still looks higher than the rear (the fender arch is higher obviously) but they distance from the tire to the fender is nearly the same front-back

A1 A2 German
05-11-2015, 10:53 PM
Edited my posts, that -10AN showed up and it's basically an arm wrestling match to get it on. If you already bought spray the barb with with wd40 and arm wrestle it. I'm going to bump it up to -12AN hose which is basically almost the same price and will easily slide on.

pbcrazy
05-12-2015, 02:58 PM
Mounted the GTI conduit, took a lot of work to get all the wires in it and actually have it close. Came out well, I opted to cut the end of the conduit off rather than cut the valve cover, I put a generic flexible conduit on the end of it which I will change out when I get a size bigger. Additionally the conduit holds the connectors at an angle so I had to shave a bit of rubber off each coil so it would match the angle. I still need to shave off the two mounting points, and possibly add a couple drain holes just in case water gets in.

http://i1194.photobucket.com/albums/aa376/pbcrazy96/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpsnmjyyi8b.jpg

For $17 I love it

cjt671
05-12-2015, 05:51 PM
Super clean[emoji108]🏼

pbcrazy
05-17-2015, 06:48 PM
Ok so this is probably going to sound really dumb, but what do you do with the oem ground to battery (from alternator/starter) wires when you relocate the battery? Do you just ground them out to the chassis or....? Also, do you think JB weld would hold up on the coolant pipe for a nipple?

adam044
05-17-2015, 08:00 PM
Ok so this is probably going to sound really dumb, but what do you do with the oem ground to battery (from alternator/starter) wires when you relocate the battery? Do you just ground them out to the chassis or....? Also, do you think JB weld would hold up on the coolant pipe for a nipple?

Chassis I believe. Just helped my friend relocate his battery to his trunk and believe it's grounded to the chassis.

Where are you moving your battery? It's nicely tucked away in the stock location.

A1 A2 German
05-18-2015, 12:44 AM
Not sure if misunderstanding or misreading.

There is no negative wires to the starter or alternator, they are self grounding. The trunk battery you can ground to your rear bumper 13mm trunk bolt (under the carpet). If you like you can upgrade the chassis to motor ground, it's located kinda by the passenger side subframe swaybar motor mount area.

pbcrazy
05-18-2015, 06:23 AM
I grounded in the trunk it the alarm horn, bolts right to the chassis and it was a big enough bolt it hardly fit through the eyelet. So you are saying the alternator and starter ground to the chassis by themselves, then where does the OEM ground cable go to?

Maybe I'm just over complication things but in my experience (and what I thought was true with cars is) the ground and power need to be connected in some sort of 'circuit' so to speak for electricity to flow, I'm just not seeing how everything grounded to the chassis would allow that happen. Maybe I don't know as much about cars electrical as I thought I did

cjt671
05-18-2015, 06:48 AM
Isn't the electricity supposed to flow throw the metal chassis (ground) and through to whatever else is grounded to the chassis/back to the battery

A1 A2 German
05-18-2015, 09:05 AM
DC current your entire chassis is negatively charged via the oem ground cable from the battery. All negative power you get from the chassis (unibody) of the car.

AC current (homes) everything needs a bonified negative wire going to it.

The oem ground cable you bolt from the battery to the bolt in the rear of the trunk (that holds the bumper on). Make sure to sand, grind and prep the surface metal area for a good ground.

pbcrazy
05-18-2015, 10:20 AM
I guess I never really thought about it, but that makes sense.

German, How did you attach the nipple for the turbo to the coolant hard pipe? Did you actually get it welded (on the first version you had, if you happen to still have it I may offer you something for it to save me the trouble)

pbcrazy
05-26-2015, 09:44 AM
Relocated battery today, this was the resulting rake:
http://i1194.photobucket.com/albums/aa376/pbcrazy96/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpsjfg5kuom.jpg

I put it back to normal and will be waiting for coilovers lol

adam044
05-26-2015, 12:50 PM
Relocated battery today, this was the resulting rake:
http://i1194.photobucket.com/albums/aa376/pbcrazy96/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpsjfg5kuom.jpg

I put it back to normal and will be waiting for coilovers lol

Wtf.....looks great. Lol. How can a battery cause that? Thats ridiculous. Wtf does your car look like with a grow adult in the back seat?!

Why do you want your battery in the trunk anyways? Just curious.

pbcrazy
05-26-2015, 01:29 PM
Big ass 50 lb battery moved from the front to the very very edge of the trunk is pretty drastic in weight transfer. I like how the rear sat lol, the front...eh haha (keep in mind this is with lowering springs on the front)

Partial engine bay tuck is the main reason. I've always been crazy about engine bays so I decided to go for it, which is why I asked about the manifold you posted in the IBS, unfortunately he isn't seeing my messages asking for price, and nobody will accept my request to join the group to comment lol

A1 A2 German
05-26-2015, 01:29 PM
Something is seriously seriously wrong!


That or you're joking :). 5 bags of cement in the trunk wouldn't do that. I load up with hundreds of pounds of stuff from Home Depot and all you end up with is a ~1/4"+ drop in the rear nothing effected in the front.

pbcrazy
05-26-2015, 01:43 PM
Lol you caught me. There was a jack up the passenger side front. Didn't finish as I got hot as hell and I didn't want to get super sun burned. Question though, when you did the battery relocation, did you have a second tee running to the fuse box from the power wire? Your originally diagram didn't show one but the OEM power cable has a wire running through the ecu box

adam044
05-26-2015, 02:22 PM
Hmm okay. I just figured the battery in the stock location is pretty out of sight since it's completely covered.

ray4624
05-26-2015, 02:28 PM
are you going to bend all the hardlines for the ABS yourself?
hardlines were always something i liked to see in engine bays.

A1 A2 German
05-26-2015, 02:29 PM
HA!

I once did the same thing with my Caddy, I loaded one end and created a 10" wheel gap on purpose and posted "Does this look o.k.?" (As a joke but played if off at serious).

And yes, after one of my last discriptions I walked out to my car and pulled the tray to test fit the p/s reservoir and forgot to edit. The diagram I provided is correct yet forgot to add 1 more T fitting in the diagram. The forgotten "T" is right next to brake booster, and is were I plug into to provide power to that oem ~8g fuse panel cable. There's no need to inlarge or replace the diameter of the oem cable. Technically if you did place a circuit breaker up front in the rain tray you could almost T off that yet the circuit breaker hole will probably not be large enough to except the rear battery cable AND the oem ~8 gauge fuse panel wire.

So: Cable comes from back of car, out ecu box ~1' to the brake booster area, I secured a "T" there. Install your fuse panel wire there, and the last space goes to the battery cable to the back of the head T fitting. Then that T branches to the right for the alternator and left for starter.

pbcrazy
05-26-2015, 03:09 PM
Hmm okay. I just figured the battery in the stock location is pretty out of sight since it's completely covered.
Precisely why I moved it (so I can put my reservoirs there and they will be out of sight/completely covered)


are you going to bend all the hardlines for the ABS yourself?
hardlines were always something i liked to see in engine bays.
More than likely yes, the ABS is a bit down the road but I plan to just rent the tool and do them. If done right, the abs hardlines will not be visible in the engine bay. The fuel lines, however, may because I'm scared as anything to start bending fuel lines or replacing them with like rubber or something. I would like my car not to catch on fire if at all possible lol


And yes, after one of my last discriptions I walked out to my car and pulled the tray to test fit the p/s reservoir and forgot to edit. The diagram I provided is correct yet forgot to add 1 more T fitting in the diagram. The forgotten "T" is right next to brake booster, and is were I plug into to provide power to that oem ~8g fuse panel cable. There's no need to inlarge or replace the diameter of the oem cable. Technically if you did place a circuit breaker up front in the rain tray you could almost T off that yet the circuit breaker hole will probably not be large enough to except the rear battery cable AND the oem ~8 gauge fuse panel wire.

So: Cable comes from back of car, out ecu box ~1' to the brake booster area, I secured a "T" there. Install your fuse panel wire there, and the last space goes to the battery cable to the back of the head T fitting. Then that T branches to the right for the alternator and left for starter.
I think the circuit breaker might be able to accept both cables. I know my fuel holder I have in my trunk could, and that was made for 4AWG wire. The circuit breakers are made for up to 0. Might be hard holding them still while trying to screw the allen in though.

I'm tempted to just splice both the OEM power terminal -> starter/alternator and -> fuse box and tee off that. The power cable is already pretty well hidden in the bay, all I would need to do it lower the entry point (where it goes through the grommet) out of sight. Would be much easier than trying to find a new place to cut into the bottom of the firewall and run all new wires just to save a few feet (not really a big difference when I already added 18 feet).

pbcrazy
05-28-2015, 11:51 AM
Finished my battery relocation today, I really like how it turned out:
http://i1194.photobucket.com/albums/aa376/pbcrazy96/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpstp7lawht.jpg

Look at all that space [hail]
http://i1194.photobucket.com/albums/aa376/pbcrazy96/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zps9o8xl9e3.jpg

Comments:

The box is aluminum and mounted directly to the frame, meaning if I ever need to jump someone I need to make certain the jumper cables are insulated. I will likely go back eventually and put a piece of rubber or something so it isn't a ground
The car seems to crank a little slower now, I expected this though since I added 18' of cable. No problems starting or anything, but may be an issue in very cold weather.
The box looks amazing in the trunk, it's all brushed aluminum. But it is a little harder to open up the spare tire well because of the box sitting on the carpet (and is one more thing to keep clean

cjt671
05-28-2015, 12:29 PM
Looks sharp[emoji106]🏽

adam044
05-28-2015, 01:21 PM
That box say Taylor on it? If so that's the box my friend used when we moved his battery in his race car.

His car still cranked the same after the relocation but it's also one of those super batteries. I forget the name something red top I think.

ray4624
05-28-2015, 01:27 PM
Run the fuel lines up into the rain tray and then out the false firewall via bulkheads. Perfect time to do a remote mount for etc


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

pbcrazy
05-28-2015, 01:31 PM
Looks sharp[emoji106]��
Thanks [up]

That box say Taylor on it? If so that's the box my friend used when we moved his battery in his race car.

His car still cranked the same after the relocation but it's also one of those super batteries. I forget the name something red top I think.
Yep it's a Taylor cable box, it complies with all NHRA rules which is quite rare so it is used in a lot of drag cars (I used it just because I have a group 48 battery which was too large to fit in most boxes). My battery is 5 years old so it's probably not at full capacity anymore. I had problems with slow cranking in the winter, so I will likely replace it eventually. That or add a small battery up front just for cranking.

cjt671
05-28-2015, 03:24 PM
You putting the coolant and ps res in there?

pbcrazy
05-28-2015, 05:14 PM
You putting the coolant and ps res in there?

Coolant tank and ABS (eventually), not sure where the power steering is going yet

adam044
05-28-2015, 07:40 PM
Thanks [up]

Yep it's a Taylor cable box, it complies with all NHRA rules which is quite rare so it is used in a lot of drag cars (I used it just because I have a group 48 battery which was too large to fit in most boxes). My battery is 5 years old so it's probably not at full capacity anymore. I had problems with slow cranking in the winter, so I will likely replace it eventually. That or add a small battery up front just for cranking.

Yeah he's going to run it on the drag. If you move your battery to the trunk you need to have an outside cutoff switch as well so he wired up one of those that he can make visible when it comes time to drag.

pbcrazy
06-01-2015, 08:36 PM
Got bored today so I decided to play around with my cheap little borescope and check out my pistons. Looks like my timing broke at some point, which explains why all the exhaust valves were replaced at 100k. Nice little valve indents on the pistons, only one per cylinder (all exhaust). Any downsides to running like this (I assume not since it has been like it for the past 100k miles).
http://i1194.photobucket.com/albums/aa376/pbcrazy96/Screen%20Shot%202015-06-01%20at%202.08.35%20PM_zpstq9rqjfg.png
http://i1194.photobucket.com/albums/aa376/pbcrazy96/Screen%20Shot%202015-06-01%20at%202.07.00%20PM_zpshullpvp8.png
http://i1194.photobucket.com/albums/aa376/pbcrazy96/Screen%20Shot%202015-06-01%20at%202.06.29%20PM_zpsxaxvn7ui.png

Pistons look pretty carbon-d up too, will likely run some seafoam through for now.

down_n_dapper
06-02-2015, 10:25 PM
as long as the force wasnt enough to put a hairline crack/stress fracture in the piston or force them out of round they should be okay, considering its been 100k I'd say all clear