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ricekikr
02-12-2015, 01:49 AM
What's the normal draw everything off?

Mines currently at 1.9amps each fuse/relay pulled one at a time (including the under dash ones) it stays at 1.9.

Weird thing is when I unbolt the wire on top of the battery postive terminal (not the battery terminal the one bolted to it) amps drop to zero. But not when i unplugged all relays (1 at a time).

All this was done after 10min of unlocking the doors.

woolveren
02-12-2015, 06:36 AM
Remember this reading somewhere.. B5's draw around 0.13 Amps for thirty seconds after locking the car and then it drops to almost ~0.1 amps.

Anything over 350 Milli amps can drain the battery overnight.

ricekikr
02-12-2015, 06:47 AM
Any idea what else i should check? Might try unplugging all fuses simultaneously tomorrow.

What items are directly connected to battery aside from alternator?

Does the b5 have a quirk like the comfort modules of b6 wherein amps drop after a period of time and doesn't drop unless door is closed?


Iirc i pulled 4 or 5 relays from under the panel. I somewhat ruled out alternator because when i unbolted the cabin power cable amps dropped to zero.

Also unplugged the bose amp connector.

ricekikr
02-12-2015, 07:30 PM
Anyone?

B5A4coastie
02-13-2015, 03:23 AM
If one fuse at a time didn't work then maybe it's a combination of a few. The amperage didn't fluctuate at all while pulling the fuses? If not my guess would say you have a bad ground somewhere. Unless there's any home made wiring job somewhere in the car that isn't controlled by a fuse in the cabin.

ricekikr
02-13-2015, 03:48 AM
Could you further explain the bad ground?

Can a bad battery cause higher amp draw?

Are the underdash relays connected to each other?

I pulled all fuses it dropped to 1.5amps. Even the big 40 and 50 under dash fuse. Then the relay one by one with the fuses pulled. Removed ecu and abs harness no difference.

The non oem wiring are the ff:
Gauges - powered from stock fuse box
Meth pump - directly to battery (fuse removed)
Fuel pump - directly to battery (fuse removed)
Arduino - powered from stock fuse box
Aem fic - powered from relay panel (relay removed)

B5A4coastie
02-13-2015, 05:46 AM
The perfect system is from the positive battery terminal, through a fuse, to the equipment, then to the equipment ground, to the cars frame and back to the negative battery terminal. If you have a bad connection in the circuit, it will require higher amperage to continue through the bad connection to get back to the negative battery post. If this bad connection was on a single piece of equipment, you would have seen the amperage drop when you pulled the fuse for the circuit. However you said it's staying the same, so if you have a bad connection between the negative battery terminal and the cars frame or between the cars frame and a common ground that multiple pieces of equipment use,you wouldn't see any change pulling fuses.

I have not tested my current draw, so I can't compare my car to yours. How are you measuring the current draw? What type of meter and how did you set up your leads or clamp?

woolveren
02-13-2015, 07:28 AM
Could you further explain the bad ground?



Check the resistance between the Battery Negative Terminal and the Alternator Body. If the ground is good then the resistance would not exceed 0.3 Ohms..

ricekikr
02-13-2015, 09:10 AM
I have not tested my current draw, so I can't compare my car to yours. How are you measuring the current draw? What type of meter and how did you set up your leads or clamp?

I get now what you mean bad ground. But yeah not much change with all the fuses pulled (just .4amps)

Using a cheap multimeter with the negative disconnected. Leads clamped on negative batt and ground cable.



Check the resistance between the Battery Negative Terminal and the Alternator Body. If the ground is good then the resistance would not exceed 0.3 Ohms..

Thanks for the tip. Will try this tomorrow.

ricekikr
04-15-2015, 05:24 PM
Replaced battery, amp draw dropped from 1.4 to .35. Possibly dead cell?